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Ammo SigAir ProForce MCX Virtus AEG airsoft gun: Part 3

SigAir ProForce MCX Virtus AEG airsoft gun: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Virtus AGE right
SigAir ProForce MCX Virtus AEG right side.

Part 1
Part 2

This report covers:

  • Accuracy
  • Romeo5 XDR red dot sight
  • Sig BBs|
  • 0.20-gram TSD Tactical White BBs
  • 0.20-gram TSD Tactical Black BBs|
  • 0.20-gram Marui Black BBs
  • 0.25-gram Stealth BBs
  • Rock and Roll
  • Discussion
  • Summary

I said in Part 2 that there was a lot to test with this SigAir ProForce MCX Virtus AEG airsoft guns, and today I discovered I was understating the case. You’ll see why as we progress.


This is the beginning of the accuracy test and it’s good to remind ourselves what this airsoft gun is meant for. It’s meant for skirmishing, which means shooting people, not targets. However, the best way to get it on target and properly adjusted is still the old-fashioned way of shooting at paper.


The However today is all the variables. I will be shooting many different BBs, adjusting the Hop Up and adjusting the Romeo5 dot sight — each of which makes the equation more complex. I did not think about that until I was well into the test.

My plan had been to try several 0.20-gram BBs, and then some heavier ones, since we learned in Part 2 that the Virtus can handle BBs up to 0.30-grams. But I didn’t take into account adjusting the gun and the sight for each BB. Were I to try to do that I could write about just this one airgun for the next month and still not finish. Perhaps you don’t care about the outcome but there are readers who want to know, so I owe it to them to do a thorough job.

Romeo5 XDR red dot sight

I mounted the Sig Romeo5 XDR red dot sight on the Virtus for the test. I must observe that both this sight and the Virtus airgun are precision-made and the installation of the sight took some time. All parts have to mesh, and when they do that sight is on tight!

I adjusted the intensity of the dot as low as it would go and still be visible. That gives the most precision. 

Sig BBs

I mentioned in the earlier parts of this report that Sig sent some 0.20-gram BBs with the gun, so I started the test with them. I first fired a single shot from 12 feet, and when the BB hit the target at 6 o’clock I backed up to 10 meters for the test. 

The Sig BBs were not feeding reliably. After loading the magazine each time it took several shots before they began to feed, so I loaded 16 BBs into the mag for the first target. That’s 4 pumps of the speedloader button. 

The first target has 8 shots on it. There were more BBs left in the gun but they wouldn’t fire out. The 8 BBs are in 2.415-inches at 10 meters. They are high on the target, and in line with the center.

Sig Virtus Sig BB 1
On the first target 8 Sig BBs went into 2.415-inches at 10 meters. 

I adjusted the Romeo5 dot sight five clicks down after seeing this first target. I also adjusted the Hop Up five clicks up. I didn’t know if that was the right way to go, but the next target would probably tell me. There were 4 BBs remaining in the Virtus that were not fired. I loaded another 16 Sig BBs into the magazine.

The second target has 9 shots in the target in 2.341-inches between centers. Once again I had to shoot several BBs to get the gun to fire then and the last 4 BBs would not fire from the gun. They fell out when the magazine was removed.

Sig Virtus Sig BB 2
The second target shot with Sig BBs has 9 shots in it. The group measures 2.341-inches between centers.

By adjusting both the Hop Up and the sight setting I confused myself as to what was happening. But that did not deter me from making the same mistake again. This time I adjusted the Romeo5 dot sight down 6 more clicks and the Hop Up up 6 more clicks. Hopefully something would change. I loaded 20 more BBs into the magazine.

The third target shows 9 BBs in 2.095-inches at 10 meters. The group is a little smaller than the others, so I’m thinking the Hop Up is where it needs to be for now. It also dawned on me that I could be here forever if I tried to adjust both the Hop Up and the sight for each BB. So I decided to leave both things as they were for now.

Sig Virtus Sig BB 3
This third target with Sig BBs shows 9 in 2.095-inches at 10 meters.

Once again there were four BBs remaining inside the gun after the gun stopped shooting BBs out. They were outside the magazine but loose in the gun’s receiver. I had intended for each of these three targets to be 10-shot groups, but this BB feeding problem prevented that.

Sig Virtus BBs
After every round of shots there were always 4 Sig BBs left in the gun.

Stock Up on Shooting Gear

0.20-gram TSD Tactical White BBs

Next I tried shooting 0.20-gram TSD Tactical White BBs. They aren’t called that on the bag they come in, but on the next target I will shoot 0.20-gram TSD Tactical Black BBs, and the color of the BB is the only difference between the two. The wording on both packages is identical. I loaded 20 of them into the magazine.

This time I got 10 shots in a row! Feeding was perfect. Hurrah! These ten went into 1.747-inches at 10 meters, making them considerably more accurate than the Sig BBs. They hit in almost the same place on the target as the Sig BBs. To keep things simple I did not touch either the Hop Up or the dot sight for the remainder of the test.

Sig Virtus TSD White BBs
Now this is a nicer group. Ten TSD 0.20-gram white BBs in 1.747-inches at 10 meters.

To dump the remainder of the BBs (I had loaded 20 BBs because of the previous experience) I fired them into the backstop on Rock and Roll, once the target was taken down. All BBs were expended from the magazine this time!

0.20-gram TSD Tactical Black BBs

Now I loaded some 0.20-gram TSD Tactical Black BBs into the mag. The Hop Up and sight settings remained the same. Ten BBs went into 2.106-inches at 10 meters. Once again, all BBs fed as they should and I dumped the rest Rock and Roll into the backstop after securing the target.

Sig Virtus TSD Black BBs
Ten 0.20-gram TSD Tactical Black BBs went into this 2.106-inch group at 10 meters.

Once again, all BBs fired from the gun without fail. But the White TSD BBs still grouped tighter.

0.20-gram Marui Black BBs

Next up were ten 0.20-gram Marui Black BBs. They made a 2.377-inch group in almost the same place as the other BBs. They also fed perfectly.

Sig Virtus Marui Black BBs
Ten Marui Black BBs made a 2.377-inch group at 10 meters.

0.25-gram Stealth BBs

I had only planned to shoot 0.20-gram BBs today, since there were so many to test. But I had loaded the magazine with 0.25-gram Stealth BBs before realizing what they were. Since they were already loaded, I shot a final target with 10 of them. As expected they landed a little lower on the target than the 0.20-gram BBs. Ten of them landed in a group that measures 2.175-inches between centers. That’s about as good as the worst of the 0.20-gram BBs. I could play with the Hop Up to try to improve the group, but for today I will leave things where they are.

I want to add that this was the only other BB besides the Sig BB that had feeding problems. Several times during the shooting BBs failed to come out of the gun.

0.25-gram Stealth BBs
Ten 0.25-gram Stealth BBs made a 2.175-inch group at 10 meters.

Rock and Roll

As a final test I took the best BB of the test, which was the TSD White BB — and shot 16 into the target on full auto from 10 meters. I fired two bursts, with the last one being the longest. The gun was rested for this target just like it was for all the others and all the BBs fired as they should.

This group is perhaps the most enlightening one of the day, because it represents what the Virtus can do when it’s used in the way it was designed. 16 BBs went into 2.743-inches at 10 meters.

Rock N Roll
Shooting 16 shots full-auto gives a group that measures 2.743-inches between centers.


This Virtus is a serious select-fire AEG. I consider the accuracy we have seen so far to be very respectable. And the gun hasn’t been fully tuned or tested. 

Up next will be the heavier BBs that range from just above 0.20-grams up to 0.30-grams. If I find any more 0.20-gram BBs I will also test them as well.

Following that test, I will exchange the 120 mainspring for the lighter 110 spring and completely test the gun again — both for velocity and accuracy.


Sig’s AEG Virtus is a serious airsoft airgun. They should be proud to carry it in their ProForce line.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

53 thoughts on “SigAir ProForce MCX Virtus AEG airsoft gun: Part 3”

  1. B.B.,

    Please correct me if I’m wrong but I thought the Hop Up was supposed to help align the path of the plastic BBs to the sight, not necessarily increasing the accuracy.


  2. BB
    Trying to remember from the airsoft gun I had. But I don’t believe that the hop up affected accuracy. It really only changed trajectory.

    That means point of impact changed location on the target when I adjusted hop up but the gun still grouped the same.

    So what I’m saying is I probably wouldn’t worry about adjusting the hop up at the 10 mm distance your shooting at now. If that makes any sense.

    • Yogi,

      Yes they would. The smaller, the better. Having said that you would need to determine if they were biodegradable. If so, no.

      I have made eight shooting rest bags using denim jeans legs and plastic round pellets about 1/4″ in diameter for fill. I gave four of them to my son-in-law. They are awesome! The denim allows an airgun to slide more freely than suede. They are quite hefty, but not as much as sand.

    • Yogi,

      RR is right about airsoft bbs (especially smaller) being an okay fill material. I have used Buckwheat, grass seed (in kneeling rolls) If you need to control a hard recoiling weapon then a heavy fill material will work better especially on the rear bag(s) i have used Lead bb’s (Lead Shot various sizes) for bags to good effect. I gues if you are in Cal. you would need to go with unleaded!


  3. Comment for yesterday


    It’s you.

    As for the “fraying”, I have parted the string on a 150 # compound crossbow. It is an ugly experience.

    • RidgeRunner,

      I was afraid of that!

      I read in the Owners Manual that if the Serving comes undone/damaged that it can be redone but if the actual string is damaged it must be replaced. It could be the deck edge(s) or even the lower lips on the magazine but I wonder if the Latch isn’t what is cutting/wearing the Serving.

      There is tape for bags/stocks that allow the forearm to slide unimpeded.


      • All of the above. Each contributes it’s part. I think the rail edge is the worst though. The string is pulled down on it and moving at a high rate of speed along it.

  4. Everyone,

    Just a bit more on what Hop Up really does. Yes, it puts a backspin on the BBs and yes, that does make them fall less in flight, but Hop Up also straightens out the flight path so the BBs don’t curve to the left or right. That tightens the groups, so in that way, adjusting Hop Up does make the airsoft gun more accurate. I should have explained that in the report.


    • BB
      Maybe Ian will have something to say about hop up.

      But I did not see accuracy increase at a given distance when I adjusted hop up.

      You know how when you (as in you BB) test a pellet gun for accuracy. You tend to sight a gun so you don’t shoot out the targets bullseye that you sight with.

      That’s what hop up does. You can move the point of impact around by adjusting hop up. But it doesn’t make the group smaller.

      Heck I could adjust the hop up on the sniper airsoft gun so the airsoft ball would rise at the end of its trajectory.

      And notice I said trajectory. I could make the airsoft ball shoot straight and flat out to a given distance. Say 30 yards. Or I could make it shoot in a big arch like a how a tank shoots. Or in between like a pellet gun shoots. Or like I said make the ball rise at the same distance. Like the ball would be heading right for the target and then curve up above it when it got there.

      Maybe this will help. Kind of like what Siraniko said. Let’s say you have a fixed open sight on a airsoft gun that has hop up. You could dail in your point of impact. But it doesn’t help tighten the group up in that location it hits. It just moves the location. Well maybe it could tighten a group up with the right back spin. But impact location is what is mostly affected by adjusting hop up. But you don’t have the same control of movement with the hop up as you do with a scope. And again. Hop up is more for adjusting trajectory.

      I have more to say but let’s see if some airsoft people might catch today’s blog and chime in on what they know. That’s what needs to happen.

      • Sorry for the late reply.
        Been on the lake.

        A bad day of fishing is better than a good day at work…..

        BB can you help me out here if I am wrong?

        A pellets accuracy is imparted on it by the spin of the rifling and it’s fit to the rifling and how the pellet exits the barrel.
        The exterior ballistic environment tends to move the pellet around, (left, right, and such,)but the pellet Is rotating along its long Axis. And it’s weight helps keep it stable.
        Like a thrown football spinning along its axis.

        The airsoft ball is extremely light, and is effected by the wind very easily.
        It also has a backspin that actually uses the air to control its flight path.

        Without the hopup, it is like a steel bb down a smooth bore barrel, it comes out like a knuckleball from a major league pitcher. It can go anywhere the passing air pushes it.

        The airsoft barrel is smooth bore, and like a pitch from a major league pitcher, the hopup backspin controls the flight of the ball.
        A professional pitcher can throw a sinker, a curve ball, a slider, and other combinations we can’t imagine, just from how the air goes around the ball. .

        The hopup does control the point of impact, BUT, IT CAN control the group size to a certain extent.
        The more consistent back spin, and the more perfectly round and weighted ball you use, the more consistent group you get.

        The hopup nub is less than the diameter of the ball, so it’s spin is imparted in a millisecond as it passes, where a rifled barrel spins a pellet for a much longer time.

        Too much impingement on the ball, and it gets erratic and bounces down the bore, just the right amount it follows the top of the barrel tube, and out to its target, too little impingement, and it’s the knuckle ball.

        I think I just made things muddy, but somewhere in this post, hopefully a light will come on for somebody.


        • Ian,

          The only mud I saw is when you said;

          “The more consistent back spin, and the more perfectly round and weighted ball you use, the more consistent group you get.”

          How do you know you have perfectly round and weighted airsoft BB’s and a consistent back spin, through trial and error or are there some BB’s that are known for consistency?


          • Typically you get what you pay for.
            If you look at the airsoft bbs on the shelves in a big box store, the multi colored and clear ones are the cheapest, and only weigh .12 grams.
            If you look at the clear ones, you can see voids in the plastic ball.

            They are used in the cheapest guns for kids or in airsoft (grenades or airsoft mines) where no accuracy is needed.

            The more expensive ones are made with compressed powder or plastics, then polished with great precision.
            Some are made with biodegradable components.

            You can cut the balls in half with a sharp knife and look for voids in the projectile.

            If a ball has voids in it, one side will be heavier than the other, and it will wobble in the air as it spins.

            They also make metal airsoft balls, but they are used in target shooting, as they can defeat the standard eye protection, and require higher energy levels to propel them.

            And the most expensive ones they make are ceramic projectiles.
            Created from lab-grown crystal lattice structures, these balls are individually machined to precise tolerances that ensure uniform weight, dimensions and surface shape. This level of precision and uniformity makes for ideal ballistic performance and consistent flight patterns. The manufacturing process and materials are much more expensive than molded polymer projectiles.
            Like the metal ones, are meant for target shooting only.

            • Ian,

              Thanks, I had no idea that there were metal and ceramic airsoft BB’s, I will research this to learn more.

              Perhaps B.B. could acquire some of these precision balls to compare the accuracy, I think he will get smaller groups for sure.


              • Most people (and most casual airsoft players included) don’t realize how serious others are about their hobby.

                Just like we are in ours.

                Some people are happy with their Daisy Red Rider, and want no more from an airgun.

                Others NEED a Thomas benchrest gun, costing several Thousand dollars.

                Others WANT the Quality of a $5000+ Whiscombe.

                And there is no substitute for their wants and needs.

                They have ACCURACY nuts and FPS nuts, and RATE OF FIRE nuts in airsoft just like we have in our hobby.

                Check the prices on this list..


                • I did not know that airsoft could get that high, but I have never really looked at airsoft. I did do a little looking around at ceramic and metal airsoft and it seems that the ceramic may be too heavy for the review that B.B. is doing today, and the metal right at the top.

                  Seems just every hobby, the deeper you get the more spendy it gets.


      • Also, you can control the flight path by the position of the gun.

        Cant the gun left or right, the ball path moves left or right.

        Turn the gun 90 degrees left, and the ball hooks to the left.
        It also sinks faster because the backspin is no longer providing lift because of the magnus effect.

        You CAN shoot around the corner from 20 yards away.

        Yes it sounds like bad ballistics from a Hollywood movie, but maybe we can get BB to cant his gun in the next test.


  5. I don’t know about the rest of you, but I wish that had access to the variety of vintage airguns that are available in the UK. I was on a website last night and saw an El Gamo Statical air rifle for sale. It’s a recoiless, semi-recoiless??? break barrel air rifle with the compression tube riding on rails like an FWB 300 or RWS 54. From what I was able to read on the internet, the system works. Anyone ever have one of these? Can you get airguns advertised online in the UK? I’ve had a hankerin’ for something different and this looks like it would fit the bill.


    • Brent,

      Contact Carel. He hangs around here and frequently is selling on American Airguns all the time. He can likely find it for you.

      If you are serious, you can find sources there.

      • RR,

        I talked to my Airgun Smith. He had seen some years ago and thinks they were not worth the price then or now. Still, it would be nice to be able to examine one.


  6. And had to post this for those that are interested in this stuff.

    But WAY off subject.

    I did my maiden flight on my RC YF22 today. I only needed about 3 clicks of up trim and 2 clicks of right aileron trim. It flew hands off straight and level at half throttle after trimming it. It’s got plenty of power and flys nice slow high alpha flight.

    I think the big thing is I used a different prop then what they recommended. My prop makes alot of thrust and power. The prop they recommended was for fast flight but no throttle response or thrust.

    When I get a little more comfortable with it I’ll be going inverted 2 feet off the ground before it’s all said and done. If anybody knows what that means. 🙂

        • RR
          It’s a very fun hobby. There are so many different types of flying available.

          You talk about kites. And I think maybe you mentioned combat with the kites. They do that also with RC planes. They tie streamers from their planes and you have to cut the streamers on the planes to win. They are very fast agile planes. I’m getting ready to build another one of those too. Lets just say back when I was doing combat that things don’t end up good when you get agresive and get involved in a mid air. Sometimes you get lucky. Most of the time not.

        • Chris
          Yes you hand launch it. There is no landing gear. You land it on its belly but most people will fly the plane in on a stall and catch the plane in the air as your flying it to you real slow. That’s part of high alpha flying. The nose of the plane is high in the air and your flying real slow. Your using the thrust of the prop wash to to go over the control surfaces to be able to still fly and control the plane. Basically hovering the plane with the nose high and moving forward slow.

          And what makes the plane fly realistic to jet that basically pushes the plane is the propeller is in the middle of the wing. If you blow the picture up you will see where the prop goes. And it’s a electric motor. The plane has about 4 times the power to weight ratio. So you can launch it from your hand and go full throttle after you let go and the plane will climb vertical till it’s out of sight if you let it go.

          My favorite thing to do is face level into a 5-10 mph wind about a 150 feet in the air and land the plane straight down hovering it like a harrier. My other front engine conventional 3D plane will do it too. Fun stuff. 🙂

          • GF1,

            After Don replied, I did blow up the pic. Did it first time. First time it looked like another piece/block of body. I see now. Looks interesting.


            • Chris
              Lot of stuff involved to get them to fly right.

              This jet uses aileron and elevator mixing to fly. Elivons it’s called. Flys like it has thrust vectoring. The back of the plane can swing around fast in a 360° axis off the centerline of the plane. Basically the plane can flip end over end if you want it too.

              There are people that fly better than me that can do this stuff 2 feet off the ground. It’s one thing to see it in a video. But in real life it’s just crazy amazing.

    • GF1,

      Cool, at first I thought it might be hard to see, as long as it doesn’t get in front of a dark background it should be good.

      How much room do you need? It looks kind of light so it may be able to fly just a little faster than a park plane.

      Looks like a fun plane.


      • Don
        It will fly slow if the nose is up flying it on a stall. A little faster than you can walk. Or full throttle and it will turn and burn.

        I can fly it in a 50 to 75 yard area no problem. My other conventional 3D plane will fly in closer than that. Both planes are right at a 30 inch wing span and weigh right at a pound. They have about 4 times power to weight ratio. In other ward they will go vertical till you can’t see them anymore launch right out of your hand. They are very maneuverable and have a wide speed range from slow to fast. And to say a 950 mah battery will last about 12 minutes of flying. Which don’t sound like alot of time. But the whole time your flying your subconsciously concentrating. You have to or you will be in the ground in a blink of a eye.

        • And just to mention this jet kit was only $18. You put it together with a hot glue gun. You have to buy 2 servos a motor speed controller and a motor. Which costs about $30 and that’s with good metal gear servos. And a good reciever is about $25 and you can get them for less too. And I already have a bunch of batteries and a transmitter. Its a computer transmitter which means I can do all kind of flight programming for the planes and it stores 9 different plane memories. So I only need one transmitter instead of 9.

          So in the plane I have $75 or so in it. I think the transmitter was around $200 and batteries are about $8-30 and a charger can go from $15-200. But that’s kind of like pcp air guns. You have the initial cost to fly the plane then it’s just buying different planes when you want as time goes.

          Figured I should mention that since I brought it up about them. But if you like planes you should give it a try. For sure fun stuff. And alot of things to learn. And the kids like it. Matter of fact this jet RC plane was designed by a 8th grader with a school project. There are like 3 other different jet planes that his classmates designed. So I thought that was kind of cool.

          • Gunfun1,

            I added up your total high end cost! It is cheaper than operating a T-28B/C for one hour. Only advantage is it has two seats for full size people! I bet you grin just as much and for way less money.

            I couldn’t figure out what you meant by high Alpha flying at first but that’s High AOA (Angle Of Attack) in my World! If you keep power ON you will be fine if you lower or cut power you will full stall. As far as two foot inverted flight I had a student do a Skidded Turn Stall in the landing pattern we were inverted about 20′-30′ above the runway so about the same scale wise!

            His Flight Log was stamped: No Apparent Fear Of Death. He went into another line of work.

            You might just have me needing to get the grandsons a couple of these!


            • Shootski
              I was waiting for you to chime in. I knew you would have a story or two to tell. And it’s funny you mention what they logged his flight at. I had a little sticker I made up that I put on some of my racing and combat streamer planes that said “No Fear”. Obviously nothing involved like life or death with the RC airplanes. But there was a loss of money that you have in the plane and that it was a good flying plane that would be well done if you crashed. But heck weres the fun at in it if you dont let go and fly crazy here and there. And what’s funny is I started crashing planes after I learned to fly. When your learning your paying attension. Once you learn you start pushing as they say the envelope. But hey it’s the only way. 🙂

              And yep we use to call it flying on the stall. Referring to the high angle of attach flying. Then later on like in the late 90’s to early 2000’s the term “high alpha flying” name started popping up. That’s about when they started calling RC acrobatic flying “3D” flying”.

              But yes you should get your grandkids into it. I’m surprised as much as you like flying you haven’t already gotten into RC planes. The RC flying field I use to belong to in the late 80’s to late 90’s was called the Belleville RC Flyers. The reason I mention it is because it was close to Scott Airforce base. We had alot of people that was from the base that flew at the club. Those was some fun days back then. I could spend a whole Saturday out there from sunrise to sunset flying. But yes you should get into it with your grandkids. All the same flying fundamentals apply to the RC planes as with the full scale planes you fly in. Heck start them off with a glider with a motor on it. That’s what I did and it’s how I taught my wife then my kids. My grandson will be next that’s for sure. 🙂

    • Mike in Atl,

      I don’t use Harbor Freight Tools. When i use a lift device on anything i always double any jack stand. I had a friend in High School using a floor jack to lift the car a little higher to fit something collapse on his too short (but high quality) jack stands which colapsed and pinned him. He survived but it took years of surgery, therapy, and pain to recover completely.

      Thanks for the heads up.

      Risk Management – there is No Such thing as SAFETY!


        • Mike,

          I like those!
          There must be more that could be done with them…like a shape that would let me push my off road buggy up onto the stands without a jack(s)???


                • Mike,

                  Yeah! I thought what a great idea too. Had never seen anything like that before so thank you for the nudge. Got my creative juices flowing; i already wrote some notes in my idea book so i could work on it over the next few days.


                  • Shootski,

                    I am remembering my 1974 Mercury Capri and it had a jack kindalike that, a pin that fit into the body and a crank on top that lifted the car up with a worm screw. Good times.


                    • Mike
                      I remember the car and those type of screw jacks.

                      As they say. Those were the days. 🙂

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