Today reader 45Bravo whose name is Ian tells us about an exciting new maker of aftermarket parts for the Air Venturi Avenger line.
If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Take it away, Ian.
It’s taken three years…
by Ian McKee
This report covers:
- Where am I going with this?
- Now for the FUN part, the shooting!
- The test part 1
- The test part 2
- My thoughts on the kit and the scope rail support
- Is it quieter than the factory setup?
- Is the difference in accuracy worth it?
I have been a huge fan of the Air Venturi Avenger line of airguns since they were introduced three years ago at the 2020 SHOT SHOW. I am now eagerly awaiting the new Avenge-X line to see what they have learned from the Avenger, and have taken to the next level.
The Avenger in its factory trim is an accurate rifle, BB has shown that in his reviews and testing of the rifle. His newest one ,“Goldie,” is giving a stellar performance for a budget precharged pneumatic (PCP) airgun. Since its introduction Air Venturi made several minor changes and tweaks to the design as they received input from owners (thank you Tyler Patner for listening to us.)
After buying a 3D printer, and soon thereafter buying my THIRD Air Venturi Avenger, let’s say both hobbies merged. I had started 3D Airgun Works, a Facebook group for airgun enthusiasts to share, show off, and discuss their airgun related 3D printing projects.
In less than a year the group has grown to over 6000 members from all over the globe, and many of them were making parts for their Avengers (or the Nova Vista Behemoth as the bullpup is called in some countries) for any perceived shortcomings or enhancements they could dream up.
For most hobbyists, 3D printing is done with some form of plastic, normally PLA (polylactic acid) or PETG (polyethylene terephthalate glycol) or maybe TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) which is soft and pliable like rubber.
It seemed everyone and their brother-in-law was designing and 3D printing barrel bands, moderators, higher capacity magazines, tactical styled chassis, and mounts for the FX Pocket Chronograph. The list goes on and on.
The upside to 3D printing is you can design and print almost anything you could imagine for your airgun with very minimal cost per item. The downside is — these parts are made from plastic. PLA prints at about 200 deg C. (392 deg F.) with the surface its printing on at about 60 deg C. (140 deg F.)
PETG prints at about 245 deg C. (473 deg F.) with the print bed at about 80 deg C. (176 deg F.) But the print of either material is done in layers, and the prints, when subjected to a hard knock, tend to break along the layer lines. Also, PLA softens at about 60 deg C. (140 deg F.) so if you leave your airgun or 3D printed parts in a hot car, your parts will probably soften and warp. Once they cool, they are now in the new shape that you did not intend. I have even had people that live in hotter climates like Arizona tell me they have had some of their parts soften and warp from being on the bench in the hot sun. Daisy BB gun collectors will recognize this as the stock warp they see in guns made in the 1950s and ’60s.
Where am I going with this?
It has taken three years, but someone has FINALLY designed, manufactured and is selling ALUMINUM aftermarket parts for the Air Venturi Avengers, and I am testing them. His name is Dino Grajiola and uses the name Airhunterpro on eBay. His parts will work on the rifles, or the bullpups as well.
The full kit consists of:
- An aluminum rear barrel shroud cap that is vented to allow the pressure from the internal moderator to bleed out of the shroud.
- A rubber-dampened rear barrel support that helps stabilize the barrel within the shroud.
- An internal air stripper/moderator that fits over the barrel, and centers the barrel into the shroud that is also rubber-damped.
- An external moderator that threads into the shroud to give you a second stage of moderation that further quiets things.
- An all-aluminum barrel band that clamps to the pressure tube and the shroud. The barrel band is a staggered tube design that supports the barrel and shroud over a wider area than a vertically stacked barrel band.
As I started testing this kit, he came out with a rear scope rail support that cures a weakness in the Avenger bullpup scope rail that allows the rear to flex over a ¼ inch or more, and is susceptible to damage if dropped or if too heavy an optic is mounted at the rear of the mount. See the short video below for the flex, and the cure.
You can buy the parts individually to enhance your rifle in increments or only in areas you want to upgrade. The installation is straightforward and comes with clear instructions, no permanent modifications are done to the rifle.
Avenger kit installed, without the shroud.
Remove your shroud, then remove your factory barrel stabilizer (you will reuse this in a minute).
Then comes the rear shroud cap. Slip the new rear shroud cap over the barrel and align the three vent holes down into the stock and the Allen grub screw pointing up.
Using tweezers or some small tool insert the filter material around the barrel and into the rear shroud cap, this filters out any particles that might be in the shroud when firing.
Slip the rear stabilizer over the barrel and set in place with the grub screw about six inches in front of the rear cap.
Install the factory stabilizer back into its place making sure the grub screw is back in its divot on the barrel.
Insert the internal air stripper/moderator over the muzzle until it rests square with the face of the barrel and carefully tighten the grub screw.
The guts of the kit’s moderator/air stripper.
Install your shroud over the new parts, and tighten the shroud. There is an o-ring on the rear cap to seal the back of the shroud. Install either your factory end cap, or the second stage of the moderator onto the shroud.
Install the barrel band about half way between the stock and end of the shroud, you can adjust the position to your liking. Depending on your pellet weight and velocity you may find by moving it more forward or backward can change your group size. It’s all about harmonics.
The rear scope rail support is available with or without a Picatinny rail extension. It is installed with 3 included screws and supports the rear of the scope rail like a rock.
Now for the FUN part, the shooting!
My Avenger bullpup is in .177, and still in its factory configuration. All I have done is clean and polish the bore with JB Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Paste. It has proven to be an accurate shooter with both Air Arms 8.4-grain and JSB 8.4-grain-domes, and with H&N Baracuda Hunter Extreme 9.57-grain. It really likes the JSB EXACT HEAVY DIABOLO 10.34 grain, moving out at about 860fps.
The test part 1
Before I installed the kit, I cleaned the barrel and shot test groups of five rounds at 25 and 50 yards with several pellets, but as this is getting to be a long blog, I am posting only the best groups (yes today I am cherry-picking groups).
I was shooting off of a table using a front bipod, and a small bag under the butt of the rifle.
The rifle is regulated, and I only filled to 3000 psi (210 bar) as I have found that the rifle is very consistent with that fill as opposed to the rated 4350 psi (300 bar) fill.
Avenger Factory — 5 JSB Exact Heavys at 25 yards.
Avenger Factory at 50 yards with JSB Exact Heavys. I am very impressed with this $400 rifle in .177. Looking at the photo, I THINK I fired 6 rounds at 50 yards.
The test part 2
I came home and installed the kit per the instructions, and repeated the same test a few days later with the same pellets. Again, the JSB EXACT HEAVY DIABOLO 10.34’s gave the best groups. And again, I chose the best group from each distance.
Avenger with the kit installed. Five JSB Exacts at 25 yards.
It really couldn’t get much better than this .177 caliber, outdoors at 50 yards.
My thoughts on the kit and the scope rail support
Having designed and 3D printed my own versions of and seen literally dozens of other enthusiast’s designs and prints for similar parts, with their own take on how to do the same thing that he has made in aluminum, there is no comparison.
The 3D printed versions WOULD BE less expensive IF YOU HAVE THE 3D PRINTER.
A person who prints an item for you may only have less than $1 in material cost for the filament, but will charge you $20 or more for a PLASTIC part that you can now get made in aluminum for $35.
Is it quieter than the factory setup?
Yes, it is quieter. Even without the external moderator extension and using the factory muzzle cap, it is quieter as it forces the blast of air exiting the barrel rearward into the shroud, and vents it out of the shroud without any permanent modifications to the gun.
Is the difference in accuracy worth it?
I think so, you are only seeing the best groups here, but I fired over 100 rounds in each test, and what I saw was that the number of random uncalled “fliers” was reduced after installing the kit.
While the overall kit may improve accuracy, and reduce the sound signature, the rear rail support is the true star of the show, it makes the scope rail a very rigid and sturdy platform to mount your choice of optic.
This greatly reduces the chance of accidental damage and, and gives the scope base three solid mounting points to improve the durability of the mount.
Shoot safe. Have fun!
45 thoughts on “It’s taken three years…”
Yes, that 50-yard group with those JSB Exact Heavys is quite impressive.
Thank you for the comprehensive report. 🙂
Blessings & good shooting to you,
45Bravo, interesting review. Thanks. 🙂
You are a self declared “…huge fan…” but still, I think you’re too kind with your words for Air Venturi. 🙂
Following, I’ll copy and paste, what particularly caught my attention:
“… a… flex over a ¼ inch or more… at the rear of the mount…”.
Wow, I could not call that “…a scope rail…”!
For Air Venturi to have that piece shaped to make-believe it is a scope rail, well, I think that’s just awful!
I wonder, has Air Venturi actively chased their customers yet, to retrofit such a 3D printed “…cure…”? And reimbursed those, who did not care for it, because they’ve already made their own repair?
In fact, has Air Venturi ensured that all (!) scope rail lookalikes, are now usable?
By the way 45Bravo, you must have good eyesight for your target card results, cherry picked or not! 🙂
Hihihi, a lot has changed in the airgun world in the last 3 years, and we as air gunners have a short memory.
At the time the Avenger was released it was a game changer that a $300 rifle could perform at a similar level as the more expensive offerings in the areas of accuracy, and features, such as an externally adjustable regulator, side lever operation, shrouded barrel.
But to meet the price point we want to pay, certain concessions had to be made is areas that might not hinder the performance of the gun to 90% of the owners.
Using plastics and cast alloys instead of wood and machined aluminum would be among them.
I have owned 3 avengers, and currently own 2, a wood stocked rifle in .22 and this .177 bull pup. I sent my .22 bull pup to a new home of a longtime friend who wanted to move from co2 guns to pcp’s.
Even with the concessions, for the money spent it is still a great value, and I still applaud Air Venturi for bringing it to the masses, it’s introduction made the more expensive makers take notice.
In 1966, Rolls Royce introduced their Silver Shadow to replace the outdated Silver Cloud (the car from the Grey Poupon commercials from the 1980’s).
The Silver Shadow weighed 4700 lbs.
The marketing literature at the time listed it’s engine output as “adequate”.
The car only had 190 horsepower.
All companies make concessions…
Thanks for your reply 45Bravo. 🙂
‘What do you expect, it’s cheap!’ is very understandable. I had a feeling that, maybe, I’m out of touch with the precharged pneumatic airguns, in as much that I should expect to pay more to get a higher quality product.
Or, expect to fix any faults myself when buying this relatively cheap but precise shooter. 🙂
45Bravo have you ever witnessed the pulling power of a tractor with a claimed 190 hp? Horsepower means little to me. 🙂
I drove a Silver Cloud once and it had indeed adequate pulling power, but honestly, that’s really not what a Rolls Royce is about! 🙂
I used to race nitro powered radio controlled cars and boats.
Some engines would put out 3 hp or more, and you could hold it in the palm of your hand.
But it was all blow and go, high revs but no torque.
I have seen the power of 40 hp in a tractor.
When the conversation of torque comes up I always think of this meme.
It clearly illustrates torque.
45bravo what a piece of art! No, not the welded collar, but the piped splines – as in a confectioner’s piping bag sense. 🙂
Radio controlled cars and boats, eh – but why the past tense? I suppose today’s powerful electrics, advanced battery technology and materials are, maybe too easy? 🙂
Talk about torque:
Pictured is my personal reminder of the real power of just one horse.
A little over six months prior to this example of perfect control, during a momentary lapse of control, that same horse slapped the same girl with a hoof, breaking her skull. A scarily close call ! 🙂
Thanks again 45Bravo, and “pardon me” whilst confessing, only just now having learnt what Grey Poupon adverts are about.
They are, of course, about making one smile! 🙂
No problem, it was American television commercials from the 80’s.
I would not have expected people from other countries to have seen them.
As to the past tense, that was back in the late 80’s and early 90’s. And again in the early 2000’s and again as recently as 2015.
It’s like an old ex girlfriend, or an addiction, I kept having relapses.
I have to force myself to say no…
Nitromethane powered models were the king for power and speed when NICAD and NIMH batteries were the norm.
But with the advent of the lithium polymer batteries, nitro powered models are no longer the king of the hill.
I still love the smell and the sound.
I have to make a conscious effort to not visit hobby shops or Shop online.
Radio control is an addiction as are airguns, but I have chosen the airgun path I just don’t have the time, money or room for that hobby with everything else I do.
But the temptation is always there….
Ah 45Bravo, better than anything else, I can comprehend the time limitation that prevents you from revisiting remote controlled toys. 🙂
Please share with us here, when your next remote controlled vehicle has been purchased – I would like to know whether it’s propeller-, jet- or wheel driven. 🙂
Though the Avenger is a remarkably accurate air rifle, I have some issues with some of its construction and, as I am sure everyone knows by now, where it is made.
One of its construction issues I have is the extremely high fill pressure. I am glad to read that you only fill it to 3000 PSI. I am certain that greatly reduces your shot count, but I am certain you have found that is really not a hindrance. What can I say, I am an advocate of lower fill pressures. Hey, the old big bores used to fill to 600-800 PSI. Why do you need to fill to 5000 PSI?
Another construction issue I have is the hidden air reservoir. If any of you have wondered about the depth of the stock, that is the reason. I think they have done away with it on the new Avenge-X models. My question becomes, why not cut out the front of the plastic stock and install a full length air reservoir instead of that little, short bugger? That is what Lloyd did with the Discovery, Marauder and Marauder Pistol.
I have to admit that Nova Vista has done a remarkable job with their air rifles. They also seem to be listening to their customer base. I am afraid that one day they just might win me over.
RR, I agree, but as we know, higher numbers sell.
I still find owners that will fill to 4350 psi because “that’s the recommended fill pressure.” And complain about either regulator creep or a unusually high extreme spread, but they admit that their guns perform better in the 3000 down to 2000 psi range.
Most regulators just can’t consistently regulate the pressure difference from 4300+ Psi down to 1200-1800 psi at which the gun actually operates.
Even FX put 2 regulators on the M3 Impact for a reason.
The Benjamin Marauder that is unregulated, lists the fill pressure on the side of the gun as 3000 psi, even though that gives a slight valve lock for the first few shots, then it hits 2800-2900 psi, and it wakes up and runs…
But we both know, many out there still fill to the max suggested on the gun, and just burn the first few shots.
Many owners have started replacing both tubes with higher capacity bottles, and are selling their unused tubes to other owners that are removing a plug from the front of the bullpup stock and adding a full length third tube in place of the shorty.
I think the short tube was a concession to give more air volume, but not be an exposed third tube that would give the gun a blocky appearance.
Aesthetically the staggered tubes make the gun more pleasing to the eye.
At least to me..
and I used to own a 3tube discovery in a Boyd’s stock.
The lower-pressure requirements are what FM likes about the Maximus-type rifles; 2000 PSI is plenty, just like 60 hp in the VW engine is more than adequate. This is FM speaking for himself only; others’ requirements will be different. It’s about finding your “happy spot,” whether it is with airguns or anything else.
Impressive airgun for the money, ditto with the accessories.
I have a Maximus. I like 2000 PSI also.
I have an 88 CI Harley. When I had the engine rebuilt, the dude in the shop tried real hard to talk me into going up to one hundred and something. I said why? This bike pulls me and my wife around plenty fast enough thank you.
Nice report. I love modifications that make a gun better.
The only thing I think missing is a shot counter! I believe that that 50 yard target is only 5 shots.
Needs a shot counter!
Maybe in the next model…
An excellent guest blog entry. Once again I find I’m tempted by a PCP.
You are a pretty effective enabler!
Thank you, I try to spread the love.
I have always been a champion of budget priced guns (both powder burner and air powered) that operate at levels and with features that are well above their cost.
The Avenger and the JTS airguns that are both sold by Pyramyd are among the new generation of airguns introduced in the last few years that give great value for the money spent.
I have written about both companies, and I paid my full admission price for my Avengers and Airacuda Max.
If any of the guns had serious shortcomings I would gladly pass that on to everyone, because I don’t want anyone to have buyers remorse, and money is tight.
That being said, everyone has different expectations of a $400 gun in the accuracy department as well as the construction/aesthetics department.
Some people are happy with minute of soda can across the backyard accuracy, others want hole in hole 20 shot groups at 50 yds, and nothing less will do.
To have a budget rifle that even comes close to meeting those expectations at that price point is a monumental feat in my opinion.
I have been a long time multi pump and co2 shooter, and while I can shoot springers, they are not my favorite power plant, but I do love my AirArms Prosport,
The only downside to a pcp is the cost of support equipment, but there again, in the last few years, that has changed.
The proliferation of lower cost portable compressors that are designed to fill guns only and not tanks and that can be powered by household current, or 12v dc from your car has helped many people cross over to pcp guns.
Thankfully one compressor can fill all of your precharged airguns so it’s not a purchase that is a recurring cost.
Take the next step, you won’t regret it…
Do you have links to your other articles on “budget priced guns (both powder burner and air powered) that operate at levels and with features that are well above their cost”? I’d definitely like to hear your thoughts!
I figure airguns are covered here, although if you have more elsewhere, please do share!
Right now, primarily due to cost per round, I mostly stick to .22lr using an SR22 and a P322 although the TX22 is a severe temptation.
Unlike Tom, I have not cultivated a relationship with any firearms publications so I have not written anything firearm related in print.
I have done a few threads online with black powder firearms years ago.
I do write some web content for Pyramyd Air.
In the resources section of their website I have written articles about the legalities of airgun hunting.
I have also written several buying guides in the buying guides section of the webpage.
Starting with the “The best .177 pellets” and many of the topics above that one are mine.
The link is below.
Thank you Ian!
Another great report and not just for the Avenger Modifications; since I have no required slot in my airgun library to fill I will probably never own one. Nevertheless the factual reporting you provide is always welcomed and refreshing.
“Some people are happy with minute of soda can across the backyard accuracy, others want hole in hole 20 shot groups at 50 yds, and nothing less will do.” I am well pleased that your Cherry Picked groups clearly indicate the airgun is capable of much better than 3-4+ MOA even to Fifty! ;^)
The very best of your thoughts in this report for all of us to remember and for the folks new to airguns to understand before they open their wallets.
Thanks for the report Ian!
Always good to see innovation in the airgun world!
In the choice between the additive 3d printing and the subtractive 3d CNC routing process I opted for the CNC. Each has their own advantages/disadvantages/limitations.
I ended up with a Canadian product called the LongMill MK2 and am very pleased with it. Using FreeCAD as a front end.
I’m still researching the 3d printers, the FLSUN V400 looks interesting. I still have the feeling that the 3d printers industry still has a bit of maturing to go through. From what I’ve read, good 3d printing results are still 1 part recipe, 1 part experience, 1 part experimenting and 1 part luck.
A 3d printer would be a tool, not a hobby for me so I’d be looking for a turnkey printer that doesn’t require all kinds of mods. Don’t know if they exist yet. What unit do you use, do you have one that you would recommend?
Agree that a compressor is a one time investment that can service numerous PCPs. A couple of the guys from the hunt camp chipped in and bought a good compressor to share. Another guy I know of bought an industrial HPA compressor and setup a small business refilling tanks for the local shooting range which is seeing more and more PCP shooters.
Hank, a friend and fellow Airgunner bought a new Bamboo Labs printer, it will print in multi color on its own.
He prints and sells pistol stands for owners of high end Staccato pistols.
It takes little to no setup.
Check it out..
Excellent guest blog. I also agree that the usefulness of plastic 3D printed parts is somewhat limited, however their greatest potential is to experiment with new ideas. I have seen used in this role at (previous) work very successfully. Of course, then there is the metal 3D printing, but that is in another league.
You mention that you also have a wood stocked Avenger. In your opinion, what are the pros and cons of both, cost aside? I lean towards wood but I am curious. Also, do you know if JTS would be selling here their rifle in 0.177 some time in the future? I would like that one.
I know several people that use 3D printing for prototyping before milling, just for test fit and functionality.
And I know one person who is metal 3D printing, but he does not live close to me so trying that first hand isn’t an option, yet..
I do not own a plastic stock long rifle avenger, but I have shot them, and have a few friends that do own them.
The plastic stock avenger rifle is lighter, but the plastic stock is subject flex if you exert too much force in some ways. But for hunting and offhand shooting it seems to not be a major issue.
For bench work I like the wood stock, it’s heavier, but provides a stable platform for the base rifle.
Other than that the rifles are the same.
As to the .177 JTS, it is sold in Europe, and I inquired about getting one, but was told it would not be coming to the USA, as it’s just not a high demand caliber here at the sub12 power level. (I informed them that there are thousands of experienced airgunners in the USA that would LOVE that rifle in the USA.)
Can you say field target gun?
Even if you open it up to over sub12 it would be a great seller.
I hope they change their mind.
Thanks Ian. I personally would be happy with a sub-12 fpe rifle, but I understand their hesitation.
Besides, I am sure an over-12 could be detuned, with some work on the regulator spring.
I will contact them and ask – if more of us do it, perhaps . . .
Off subject but hey it is the weekend.
I have a Crosman 100 made 74 years ago. It is a joy to shoot in spite of the magnum Charles Atlas cocking spring knob. The unlawyered trigger does justice to any sporter. My question is why are additional pumps no harder than the first pump? No physics help going on with levers that I can see.
Got two words reversed. —-knob spring, not spring knob. The cocking spring would be better managed if the knob had a hook with a “come-a-long” attached.
I don’t own a Crosman 100 but i think i can answer your question based on other multi-pump i have owned.
B.B. said this about a Crosman 100: “Let’s talk. First off I have to tell you that this rifle is quite difficult to cock. The knob doesn’t give a lot of purchase and I had to use two hands most of the time. Next I want to say the rifle is performing admirably. There was no air left outside the reservoir until the 8th pump stroke. At that point the pump lever would jump back open, indicating that there was a little compressed air that didn’t go into the reservoir and remained ahead of the pump head.”
I don’t know about anyone Reservoir but the compression tube usually has a spring powered check valve located at the input point to the valve to let air in but not reverse flow; just what check valves do. The pump in the compression tube probably can only deliver a certain amount of pressure based on Head Space/seal condition to overcome the pressure and check valve spring in the valve which would make it feel like every pump stroke is close to the same level of effort.
Think that through and see if it makes sense.
Thanks for a great blog. I have been on the fence since the Avenger came out. I just don’t need another pcp. The performance difference with the modifications at 50 yards are impressive, so is your shooting.
Last week I picked up a couple of airguns at the Pacific Airgun Expo. I paid full price for both but I am happy with both guns. One was a Crosman Mark II pistol in pretty good shape Thanks for the enabling. To bad someone took a pair of pliers to the cocking knob and the CO2 piercing knob. Don’t know why they needed the pliers on the cocking knob. I guess they took the pliers to the piercing knob when it was still under pressure. Oh well the rest of the gun seems in good shape. It is getting right at 400 fps with Daisy 7.8 grain wadcutters. I feel air coming out of the area at the front of the trigger guard when the gun is shot. I originally thought it was coming out between the frame and the barrel at the transfer port. I took it apart and checked that area and now think the leak is coming out around the valve stem. I will take it apart and check out the valve next. I think I have a new valve and will give it a try. In any case the pistol is accurate and fun to shoot the way it is.
I also picked up a like new Benjamin 317. It is extremely accurate. I have been hoping to find another one that was as accurate as the one I had when I was a kid. I think this is it. It is the newer variant with the front sight near the muzzle of the barrel, The older ones had the front sight set back from the end of the barrel. When I inspected the gun there was a rubber T shaped pump arm cushion in the pump handle slot. It really quiets the pumping down. I thought the rubber piece looked familiar. When I got home I had a couple more in a box of parts I picked up at the Expo a few years ago. I don’t know if they are an original part or not; attached is a picture showing the T shaped rubber cushion. This gun must have passed by the same person that had the box of parts I picked up at a previous show. Small world?
The Crosman 362 multi-pump is notoriously loud when pumping. I tried one of the T shaped rubber cushions in my 362 and it made a huge reduction in the noise but did not fit the pump arm and moved too low below the plastic handle. The top of the T is to narrow. I think maybe these cushions were cut from some kind of a seal or a large windshield wiper. If anyone has any information or recognizes where the rubber came from please let me know. I am looking for a rubber T that has a longer top on the tee for the 362. It was a huge improvement to the 362 pump clacking while it stayed in place. The top of the T on the ones I have is about 0.4 inches and needs to be about 0.8 inches for the 362.
Benji, you are welcome, I am always trying to encourage people to explore the vintage airgun world.
Hmm, instead of a windshield wiper, maybe a door sweep like on the bottom of some doors?
As for vintage Crosman parts, I get most of my replacement parts from Mike Baker he has a lot of New Old Stock parts for Crosman, Benjamin and many other airguns.
His email is: email@example.com tell him I sent you.
He also rebuilds factory Crosman & S&W valves, at a very reasonable price, I buy them in bulk from him and send him the ones I pull from non-working guns to be rebuilt.
The door sweep is a good idea, that may be where the rubber bumpers I have came from. I have not found one yet with the top of the T wide enough for the 362. I did find a seal that looked like it would work but I don’t need the length it came in and I don’t know the web site it is on. I will check it out and keep looking.
PS. Yep, I also have had good luck with Mike Baker on parts.
Don, can you post a picture of how and where you would put that “T” in the 362? I have one and have not found an adequate way to quiet it. Thank you!
Here is a picture of the rubber bumper on my Benjamin 317. It would go on the same location on the 362.
Just a thought.
How about cutting say a 1/2 inch -1 inch wide ring from a bike inner tube.
And insert it into the groove, sticking up, as the handle closes, the round tube MAY make the rubber loop open up and move left / right and serve the same purpose..
Thank you, sir. That gives me a few ideas to try. Still don’t know why Crosman lets the guns go out with the clickety-clack feature, when a $0.02 piece of rubber would solve that problem.
Oh RG, I haven’t forgotten about you and our conversation.
Off topic, but need help. I had a mishap and broke my 1322 carbine. It fell and broke between the inner handle and the piece the trigger guard is on. Not really sure where to find repair parts, lots of upgrades, but not that kind of repair part.
If you don’t get any answers, you may want to repost your question Monday morning. More folks will see it then.
I am not quite following where it broke can you post a photo of the area ?
Or email me a few photos at firstname.lastname@example.org
You can go to crosman.com scroll to the bottom and click on: support contact. That will give you their phone number 800-7AIRGUN (724-7486). Then go to owners manuals pick the 1322 and download the parts diagram. Then you can find the broken part number and order the part.
See at least 3 replies to your request for help. There are good folks on this blog ready to help and also enable.
First question: metal or plastic part broken?
If metal it sounds like a grip frame has broken between the grip and the trigger guard.
If a plastic part broke then it sounds like the carbine stock (combined stock and grips) all of those parts can be ordered directly from Crosman Parts. But to do it on the telephone you need the specific part numbers (Pn) to place the order. Below is directly from the Crosman page:
“Parts may only be ordered by contacting Customer Service at 800-7AIRGUN (724-7486).
You must know the part number you need.”
So part numbers are found on EVP:
Find your model and download the EVP in pdf form.
No worries. I may have to start following your other exploits, Ian. With all my spare time ;o)
Thanks for all your contributions!
Do you have any idea when the AVENGE-X will actually appear in the marketplace? (Classic wood stock – .22)