Walther’s new LGV Challenger breakbarrel spring air rifle: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier

Part 1

Walther LGV breakbarrel air rifle
Walther’s LGV Challenger is an exciting new sporting breakbarrel springer.

Today, I get to play with this wonderful new .22-caliber breakbarrel Walther LGV Challenger, and the experience was wonderful. Kevin — start thinking about a new gun! And Victor — stick around, because today you’re going to see an example of an airgun whose velocity claims are on the money. What a perfect way to get rid of the bad taste yesterday’s report left.

Oh, and to whoever said these were going to cost $700 — they’re not. This one is listed for $566.10 on the Pyramyd Air website (on the date this blog report was published). I realize that’s still a lot of money, but you can’t buy this level of quality for a whole lot less. The first time I cocked it for today’s velocity test, I was reminded of the bank-vault feel the action has. I cannot say enough good about it, except to tell Kevin that it cocks as nicely as my tuned Beeman R8. He’ll know what I mean.

What does a two-piece cocking link do?
I made an offhand remark in Part 1 that because this rifle has a two-piece cocking link that allows a shorter cocking slot, it vibrates less, and one reader asked me why that was. It isn’t because of the cocking link. It’s because the shorter slot in the stock makes the stock stiffer and less prone to vibrate. It’s a trick that’s been around since the 1960s and used to be touted by all the airgun catalogs.

Cocking effort
The barrel is held shut by a lock whose latch can be seen sticking out the end of the forearm. Cocking requires that latch to be pushed up with the thumb and only then can the barrel be broken open. You don’t have to slap the muzzle like you do on so many air rifles today, but the barrel opens like a bank vault, also.

The LGV has a short-stroke piston, so when the rifle is cocked the barrel doesn’t go very far past 90 degrees. Compared to many magnum rifles we see today, it seems to stop very quickly when you break it down. The catalog says the rifle cocks with 38 lbs. of effort, but my test specimen cocks with 33 lbs. of force. And, it feels like it may drop a pound or two after a good break-in.

Velocity
“And don’t-cha wanna know how it works?” as the comedian Gallagher used to say. I selected three pellets to test today, though I may try others during the accuracy tests later on. Pellet No. 1 is that “standard candle,” the 14.3-grain Crosman Premier. Premiers averaged 587 f.p.s. in my test. The low was 583 and the high was 591 f.p.s., so the total velocity spread was just 8 f.p.s. That tight spread is phenomenal for a new springer and would even be considered good for a tuned gun.

At the average velocity, the test rifle generates 10.94 foot-pounds of muzzle energy with this pellet. And speaking of velocities in this range, remember that 671 f.p.s is a “magic” number; because at that velocity, the energy of the pellet in foot-pounds equals its weight in grains. That makes it easy to know the power of the rifle you’re dealing with.

RWS Hobbys
The second pellet I tested was another standard test pellet — the 11.9-grain RWS Hobby. It’s a pure-lead pellet, so it has high lubricity, and its skirt is both thin and flared wide enough to seal most barrels…and that holds true for all calibers. So, the Hobby is the pellet serious shooters select when they want to know the practical power and velocity limits for a given springer.

Hobbys averaged 664 f.p.s. from the test rifle. The low was 649 and the high was 670, so this spread was a much larger 21 f.p.s. At the average velocity, the Hobby pellet generated 11.65 foot-pounds at the muzzle.

Gamo PBA Platinum
I don’t have a lot of lead-free pellets — especially in .22 caliber, so I had to use what I had. Ideally, I would have tested this rifle with the RWS HyperMax pellet that weighs 9.9 grains. But the Gamo PBA Platinum pellets I did test weigh 9.7 grains. Normally, they would be even faster, but these are very large and fit the bore tightly. I know that HyperMax pellets in .177 caliber are not that large, so I’m assuming they would also be smaller in .22 and would, therefore, be a little faster, as well.

The PBS Platinum pellets averaged 703 f.p.s. (see, Victor?) in the test rifle. The low was 691 and the high was 713 f.p.s., so a total spread of 20 f.p.s. At the average velocity, the PBA pellet generated 10.65 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle

So, this LGV Challenger is a 12 foot-pound gun. Ten years ago, that would be a suicide marketing venture, because the 1,000 f.p.s. mark was considered the gold standard (and 800 in .22). Today, we know better, and I’m here to tell you — this is a seriously classic air rifle. I can see a long and successful life ahead for the new LGV series, as long as it holds up in the accuracy department. And I think it has to, because I can tell the level of care that went into its design. Walther, all will be forgiven for re-using a classic model name if this test rifle shoots well.

Trigger
The trigger is adjustable. I don’t have a manual, but I can see the screws, and they call it a match trigger. As it was shipped, the trigger was two-stage and released at 1 lb., 10 oz. The first stage takes about 7 oz., so you can’t really feel it at all and stage 2 is definite. I felt one jump of creep on the second stage, and that was it.

The first stage is quite long, and that may bother some folks. None of the two adjustments appears to affect this. The screw that’s in the trigger blade affects the length of the second-stage pull, and the Allen or hex screw that’s located behind the trigger blade affects the sear contact area. It’s possible to adjust out all the contact so the gun cannot be cocked.

Walther LGV Challenger breakbarrel air rifle trigger adjustments
The screw in the trigger blade adjusts the length of stage two. The Allen screw behind the trigger blade adjusts the sear contact area.

What I found was that the trigger was adjusted as good as it gets when I received the rifle. So, the numbers above represent the best you can expect.

Firing behavior
The rifle has a small shudder when it fires. It’s enough to tell you there’s a steel mainspring, but it’s not objectionable. I would leave it as is. The application of black tar would quiet the shudder, but you would lose a little velocity. Perhaps, some tolerances could be closed up or the piston might be buttoned to calm the gun, but that’s a topic for a real airgunsmith — not me.

What’s next?
Next, I plan to shoot the rifle with the open sights. I’ll light the target so I can use them without the fiberoptics showing, which will give greater precision. After that, I plan to mount a scope and test it again. If this rifle shoots well, it’ll be an instant classic!

53 thoughts on “Walther’s new LGV Challenger breakbarrel spring air rifle: Part 2

  1. It’s no secret here that I’ve been eagerly awaiting these reports on the LGV.

    The clothing of the competition ultra with all of its adjustability has great appeal to me. It’s unimportant if the powerplant doesn’t live up to the hype.

    A “small shudder when it fires” in a springer that isn’t broken in yet is music to my ears.

    The great steps that Walther has taken (revolutionary?) to provide the equivalent of a tuned springer out of the box (many reviewers reactions not mine since I haven’t shot one) is something I have to take into account. When you deduct the average cost of $200 for a decent tune on a springer (including shipping both ways) the price of $566 for this model of Walther LGV will be a bargain if the accuracy is proven.

    In .22 caliber a 11-12 fpe airgun is ideal for me. I can hear the lynch mob now chanting it’s not enough power for this price and weight of gun. They’re the ones that have never shot a quality (wood and metal), .22 caliber, springer that was tuned for 11-12 fpe that will put every pellet into the same hole. I’m reminded of my HW35 and detuned R1.

    Can’t wait for the accuracy reports.

    kevin


    • Kevin , off- topic, but I saw where you need a solution to a issue you have with keeping your pressure tank from freezing at your mountain place. I don’t post on that forum , but a can offer some advice, as I live in a very cold place( with high electric costs) and personally own four well systems and have serviced many more for the last twenty -five years . I do home maintence, remodeling and own rual rental property for a living. In brief , insulate the space, preferly with spray foam and use foil faced sheets on the floor , ceiling, and walls of your crawl space foil side facing out, I have then used either a 110V ceramic portable heater with a thermostat, or a short section of 220V electric base board with a thermostat. Keep the little room where the tank resides as small as possible, and don’t forget the mouse bait station as they like the heat, and will hide there. I’ve seen many a pump house heated with a single 100W incandescent light bulb or heat lamp bulb, but if you are not there and the bulb burns out ,then your screwed. Hope this helps and good luck with the jury duty .


      • I’ve seen many a pump house heated with a single 100W incandescent light bulb or heat lamp bulb, but if you are not there and the bulb burns out ,then your screwed.

        So use a pair of bulbs with the second in a photosensitive “night light” switch. If the first bulb burns out and the room goes dark, the second bulb turns on…

        Hopefully one would be checking the facility often enough that the odds of both bulbs burning out is low…

        Oh wait… You can’t buy 100W incandescent bulbs anymore…


      • Robert From Arcade,

        Thanks for responding to my search for solutions to keep my new pressure tank and fittings from freezing.

        As you noted, my issues that make this a challenge are that I don’t have propane only VERY EXPENSIVE electricity and there are some times, usually during the winter, that although we had plans to return to the house we don’t make it back for a month or more. Because of the location and access to the crawl space I can’t do propane.

        Here’s what I’m thinking. Please give me your thoughts.

        Rather than heat the entire crawl space I would build a small insulated box around the pressure tank. I would then put a small strand of the little Christmas tree lights (the kind that even when one bulb burns out the rest stay on) around the pressure tank for the heat source.

        I’m nervous about relying on just one or two light bulbs or worse one small heater since I can’t monitor them on a regular basis.

        kevin


        • Kevin, I don’t know about the Christmas lites ,never used those. The heat tape product I have used which is like the product on the page at the bottom of the link BG gave you from Amazon, is Easy Heat Inc product 10805. Looks like woven silver flat wire tape.I have used this and where I am you can buy it by the foot. Check at a electrical /plumbing supply place. Wrap the pipe coming from the well pump up to the pressure switch and a little beyond that with this heat tape . Then wrap the pipe with fiber glass pipe insulation tape. We use this type of heat tape on water lines in milk houses and under house trailers where the water line comes out of the ground and then goes into the trailer. I would then use a rough duty light bulb in a( porcelain socket) plug in agricultural type heat lamp like the farmers use for heat lamps for farrowing piglets. Build the insulated box and clamp the light so it warms the tank area. You should be ok .


          • Robert,

            Thanks for all your help. I’m leaning towards heat tape. I’m going to use Frost Tex (very similar to the stuff in the link) since it’s available locally. It can be cut to any length, doesn’t overheat, doesn’t require a thermostat, can be wrapped around itself, etc. etc.

            Still looking for a back up heat source. Wish I could find a small, titan milk house heater like we had when I was growing up. That thing never quit. The ceramic heaters I’ve seen in the last few days look like they’ll break/quit working if you look at them wrong.

            kevin



    • Robert’s advice is great. We don’t have to worry about it much here, but it does get seriously cold sometimes. My dad always kept a bulb under the pressure switch in the well house — that switch will freeze up first in cold weather sometimes even when you are at home and running water, and he ran a small kerosene heater when it was extremely cold. On our cistern pump here (before the city water line was run), the p-switch froze overnight even with us at home and a heater on in the building, since the “watershed” is a fairly large building with a pump/tank in the corner (it is now enclosed, though obsolete). The small “milkhouse” heaters have a 40dF (“defrost”) setting for just this type of use. The only drawback is that they aren’t always that reliable for long periods if you can’t check on them. The best heaters I’ve found are the oil-filled radiator style. I picked up one on spring clearance at Lowe’s that has the 40dF “defrost” settings and two elements, one 700, the other 800 watt. That means you can operate it at half-power and save some money if you don’t need the full output. Also, Tractor Supply and farm coops will sell thermostats that you can plug in, so a bulb (or other accessory) only comes on below “freezing” (usually 40dF trigger); maybe a couple of high-wattage bulbs on that type of thermostat would work in a well-insulated and confined space. The wire wrap heaters work well on just the switch, also, but I assume you are worried about he tank freezing if you are away for long periods.


      • BG, your right, the first thing to freeze is always the pressure switch. Another option when building a utility space in a small area is to put a electric radiant heat pad in the floor Like the ones we install in tile bathroom floors that operate on a thermostat. Usually I then just install the cheapest tile I can find over it. I also always install a GFI outlet in the space anyway for somewhere to plug in lights and tools, so there’s your back-up light/heat source option. The problem with all of these is an electrical failure which only can be solved with the addition of a small wall mounted propane space heater , one that doesn’t require electricity. The issue there would be hauling in a tank, but the heater would be relatively inexpensive. Insulating the space is key, even the smallest draft will cause a problem.


        • Power failure is bad news, and you are right, propane is about the only other option. Unless he has a big tank at the house, probably would want to stick with electric and use propane on (portable) 100 lb. tank(s) as backup. I have one propane wall heater in the shop that runs 50dF on minimum setting, but I bet somebody makes one that wouldn’t cut on until below 40 or so; maybe the thermostat could be modified?

          Agreed about keeping it tight — even a bulb does an amazing job in a small, very well insulated space, but it is useless if there is any draft :)! GFI’s are a good idea, esp. where water and electricity come together!

          This all takes me back a few years to when the wife made me sign up for the new water line. I had forgotten how much fun a pump is to keep going at times, although I have never stopped threatening to bring the old cistern back on line :)!


      • BG_Farmer,

        Thanks for chiming in about my problem. Here’s my response to Robert and much applies to you.

        “Thanks for responding to my search for solutions to keep my new pressure tank and fittings from freezing.

        As you noted, my issues that make this a challenge are that I don’t have propane only VERY EXPENSIVE electricity and there are some times, usually during the winter, that although we had plans to return to the house we don’t make it back for a month or more. Because of the location and access to the crawl space I can’t do propane.

        Here’s what I’m thinking. Please give me your thoughts.

        Rather than heat the entire crawl space I would build a small insulated box around the pressure tank. I would then put a small strand of the little Christmas tree lights (the kind that even when one bulb burns out the rest stay on) around the pressure tank for the heat source.

        I’m nervous about relying on just one or two light bulbs or worse one small heater since I can’t monitor them on a regular basis.”

        kevin


        • Kevin,

          back when I performed fire protection inspections for insurance companies, sprinkler alarm check valves in non-heated areas had closets built around them and had a 100W bulb to keep temps above freezing. How about 4-25 watt bulbs? Just change on a yearly basis but the question remains, will you be able to buy incandescent bulbs as I think they are being phased out in favor of compact florescents? You may still be able to buy incandescent bulbs for the xmas lights – a good idea. Just calculate how many bulbs you’ll need to get to 75 or 100 watts.

          Fred DPRoNJ



  2. What good is 500+FPE if you can’t hit what you are shooting at? So many people seem to forget that, even some of those who have played with airguns for awhile. The CFX I had wasn’t a powerhouse, but for a sproinger it was a tack driver if you did your part. My hope is that the new LGVs will be far less finicky than other sproingers. I would like to put a quality 12FPE .177 sproinger back in my closet.


  3. Funnily enough they have a 23joule / 17Ft/lbs .177, which is kinda strange, or they just know that they need to produce that gun as well for marketing purposes… Anyhow looking at this with interest…


  4. Lynch mob? No.But if the rifle doesn’t generate enough power to satisfactorily accomplish the task at hand,then no amount of accuracy or smoothness will make up for that insufficiency.If I need match grade accuracy(pellet upon pellet),I will purchase a match rifle.For hunting I will use a rifle that delivers the power needed at the range expected with the necessary accuracy.The .22 version of the LGV is inadequate in that regard.However,I understand that the .177 version of this rifle is more powerful and will no doubt place the shot on target with accuracy to spare,and I look forward to test reports on that rifle.


    • While I agree that the .177 version may be better suited for this power plant, but that doesn’t mean it( this ,22cal version) will not accomplish the task of being a short range air rifle for hunting. I have personally killed many,many eastern grey squirrels with a Sheridan or Benjamin MSP running at those velocities in .20 & .22. respectively. I regularly shoot right thru grey squirrels with Crosman cphp .177 cal pellets using a 12 ft/lb springer at 20-25 yards. You need to get close and accuracy trumps velocity everytime when hunting with an air rifle. Many fail at airgun hunting because they use whatever particular airgun at ranges and under circumstantics that are more suited to firearms.


      • Agreed Robert.I have taken squirrels with Benjamin and Sheridan rifles as well,but have kept the ranges short.I have also,unfortunately,lost wounded animals with rifles in this power range.The LGV in .22 will take small game,but personally,I would restrict my shots on furbearers to 25 yards or less.


        • arbiter, I can see you understand the limitations of low power and I too have lost game that was poorly hit . If you hunt a lot you will ,despite your best efforts. What separates the shooters from the responsible hunters is their concern and anguish for when that does happen, why it did, and how to prevent that from happening again. Your recommendations of range restrictions for this gun are spot on. I think that the lynch mob Kevin was referring to, is the group that will buy a cheap 23-25 ft/lb .22 cal springer and use it where a RF or PCP airgun would be more suitable. On Sunday, I saw a post on another forum where a individual used a .22 RF loaded with CB shorts to shoot a squirrel. He said he shot it 9 times, before he succeeded in killing it by applying his heel to the squirrels head. He was going to a .17HRM . All in all that probably is a good thing ,given that person’s skill set. It’s that kind of “mob” that will never appreciate the level of quality air rifles like this LGV represents that is being reviewed today.


  5. Nice. But…….for about $600.00 you can buy a Air Arms TX200 MkIII rifle. Time will tell but I don’t see where the Walter would have any advantage. It is a little less expensive but not enough to make any difference. It has as less power and we will see about it’s accuracy. We will see what BB’s tests show!

    Mike


    • That’s my sentiment. Great rifle, but its price puts it into direct competition with the TX200.

      I’m reminded of all the YouTube videos of lions I’m watching. There can be only one ruler of the pride. I’ve learned quite a bit about lions who seem to me very distinctive among cats. Where most cats are solitary, lions are almost unique in being highly social–along with perhaps cheetahs. The sociability cuts both ways. The lions seem capable of great affection including hugging and kissing humans. But they also carry out the most over-the-top extreme violence on each other. Apparently lions in the wild only live about 10 years because of injuries from fighting each other. And the way they do it is so repellant. It’s like Edith’s descriptions of sadistic cats but magnified. The lions believe that if you’re in a fair fight your tactics suck and have no problem teaming up on each other. When they do, one will go for the flank and the other for the back of the neck. And it’s appallingly slow. A bite here or there then let the lion get up and rush him again. For all that’s said about human cruelty to animals–and it can be pretty bad–I don’t know that we can surpass what animals do to each other, except in sheer numbers. There was one case of a four year old lion who made the mistake of chasing a buffalo across the territory of another pride. The two male pride lions laid him out in a horrible prolonged way. Trouble was, the victim had four brothers who came along to even the score which they did in more summary fashion. The hyenas who are perpetually at war with the lions are even more grotesque, and I could see getting into the mood to exterminate them. Oh well, we don’t make the world, we just live in it as the saying goes.

      Matt61


      • Hi Matt. What you say of Lions is true. Why they do this extreme violence is the question we need to understand. It is impossible to judge behaviour in an animal, using our human standards. I have been interested in primates for as long as I remember. The male chimpanzee, is one of the most brutal animals in the wild. The regularly beat the crap out of the female chimp, almost seemingly for the fun of it. They declare war on neighbouring clans, and will wipe them out. Jane Goodall was the first person to observe this behaviour in the wild, and was appalled at their brutality. Only Humans are the equal in tactical violence. They share 97% of DNA with us. However, the 3% not shared, is in brain development. A full grown chimp is about as smart as a 5 year old human. It has been argued that life experience will account for another 2 or three years. We are still left with an animal that is 5 times stronger then a man, and with the mental capacity of a child. Why people continue to keep them as pets is what I don’t understand. Once they pass puberty, most pet chimps end up in medical labs, or are euthanized. There have been a couple of appalling cases of people being ripped apart by someones or their own full grown pet chimp. They are wild animals, and belong in the wild.
        As for the Walther, it just gets better with each blog. This rifle marks the first real change in development of the spring gun in a long time. I can see it becoming a must have for future enthusiasts and collectors. I can only hope they arrive in Canada in 500fps format. Haa. Lots of luck on that dream.
        Caio Titus


    • But the TX 200 is an underlever (not me ,BTW), which some folks despise for field use, and it the TX comes without iron sights.



        • CSD,

          Me, neither. If we give them a Discovery, they call it “the dark side” and say the support equipment costs too much. If we give them a Talon SS they say they can’t stand black rifles. If we give them this LGV they say it’s only 12 foot-pounds. Heck, my Diana 27 and 25 are a lot less than 12 foot-pounds. This rifle is in their class, and much better on several accounts.

          Maybe all we hear from are the complainers. Each gun that comes along brings them out of the woodwork. Maybe there are thousands of satisfied airgunners who like the idea of an easy-cocking smooth air rifle but don’t think enough about it to comment?

          B.B.


  6. I have a question about rifle stocks, not related to this rifle, but to the TX200 Mike mentioned and similar rifles that come with both the right-handed and left-handed stock option.

    Wouldn’t it make more sense, rather than making a right only and a left only stock, to offer, instead, an ambidexterous stock rather than a left-handed one?

    I ask this because 80% of the world is right-handed and if a left-handed person wishes to sell his rifle he is very limited. However, if a rifle was manufactured as right-handed but with an ambi stock option, then left-handed buyers would have a better chance at resale. Does this make sense?

    -Chuckj


    • Understand, I’m not suggesting that a TX200 come with an ambidextrous stock. I’m saying wouldn’t it make more sense to offer an ambidextrous upgrade option rather than a left-hand stock upgrade.

      Also, has it been proven that a right-handed stock provides more accuracy than an ambidextrous stock? Adjustable stock – sure – but fixed?

      -Chuckj


    • It’s going to add up to needing thicker blanks for the stock, and more weight.

      At least you aren’t proposing this for a shotgun. Rifles tend to have a straight line from muzzle to shoulder. Shotguns have an offset to put the barrel in line with the face, with the stock S-curved to the shoulder (and you should see what a left-eye master/right-handed stock looks like, because it tries to put the barrel in front of the left eye).


      • Wulfraed,
        I’m not grasping your point. There are rifles today with ambidextrous stocks that seem to be accepted by the airgun community. If you’re hinting at cost, lefties are already paying a premium of at least $30 more for a left-handed stock, sometimes more. If I chose to re-sell my TX-200 (or any other rifle that has a left-hand option) I think there would be a better market for one with an ambi over a leftie.
        -Chuckj


  7. Sorry, Tom! Except for extreme die-hard afficianodos, 11.5 fpe REMAINS a suicide marketing venture, Stateside! They will sell about 37 of these things over here at that energy level.

    Frankly, a heavy, smooth-shooting sub 12 fpe gun has been easily had for decades – its called “An Undersprung R1″!

    The draw to this piece (if there is one) would be moderate power levels combined with a 12 fpe cycle. THAT would be worth considering.

    When is the real, 17 fpe, .177 Comp Ultra arriving?


  8. PA may be slipping to the dark side! I got an email advertisement for “knock-down power.” :-)

    john, interesting about the phrase from Yankee Doodle Dandy about calling it “macaroni.” I would venture to say that this phrase is sarcastic and that the British weren’t calling the Americans fops–which is to say well-dressed–but a bad imitation of a fop. Note that what the Americans did with the song is what modern cultural theory would call “appropriating” representations from the oppressive power structure. >:-)

    Matt61


  9. I don’t see a full auto Evanix MAX Bullpup on Pyramyd anymore. That was one I was thinking about once the funds were there. Will it be back?

    Mike


  10. BB,
    Wow, I’m amazed at the reaction to 12 fpe. For me, it is a reasonable choice as long as it isn’t forced by law :). I assume the 17fpe version is just a matter of a couple of components and/or will be available here anyway?

    I know I’m always asking for comparisons, but this one begs the question, what does it give me over a Diana 34P with a relatively low cost tune kit? I don’t expect an answer to this question immediately, but I’m watching the reviews as the answer will most likely reveal itself.


    • PS. I should add that my 12fpe comments were mainly based on .177 experience. I can see that in .22 the trajectory might be more problematic.


    • BG_Farmer,

      When I first started reading the UK airgun magazines, I was put off by their fascination with 12 foot-pounds. I felt that if it was mandated by the law, it had to be bad. And the UK writers seemed to go out of their way to tout it’s benefits. Methought they protesteth-ed too much.

      Then I got some experience — mostly with vintage Dianas like the 27, but also with a couple real classic de-tuned springers. For the most part they were heads and tails better than the unregulated guns I was shooting.

      This LGV marks the high-water mark of factory 12 foot-pound guns, in my experience. I really hope that it shoots as nice as it operates in all other ways.

      Those who poo-poo 12 foot-pounds because the masses will ignore it may have a good point. Velocity still does sell to those without experience. But no one who shoots the rifle I’m now testing will be anything but amazed by how nice it feels.

      Yes, there is a little room for improvement, but this rifle is so far ahead of the pack that they all will need to spend $200, just to catch up.

      I do hope the gun I’m testing turns out to be representative of what Walther is producing. If it is, and if it can shoot well, I predict a long and successful life for the new LGV.

      B.B.


  11. Okay, I’m be a bit persnickety here ;-)
    I see all the time on this and other forums that there just aren’t that many good quality springers being introduced these days. That all that’s coming from the manufacturers are PCP’s or $150 magnum springers that are crap.
    Well, here we have one and a lot of the comments are ‘why bother, we already have one’.
    Really guys…there’s nothing wrong with having a choice of accurate, easy to shoot springers.



      • I see from comments about the Walther LGV on the web and one above that some folks are sayying that a undersprung R-1 or other quality springer could match this one for smoothness with tuning and/ or a spring kit. The fact is , while some of these folks have the skill to accomplish that , many who say that can’t service their push lawnmower without assistance. How much are they willing to pay for a springer air rifle that is as smooth as this one from the box? You are probably looking at a grand to smooth up and de-tune a gun like an R-1 assuming you buy a new R-1 to start and have someone do that to it.


        • Robert,

          I like the R1, but it doesn’t hold a candle to this LGV in the smoothness department. I’m sure that a master tuner like Watts or Hancock could make one that nice, but you are correct about what it would cost.

          Here is the gun done as you want it from the factory. What need do we have of turning something else into one, except that we want to exclude this one for some reason? I think this kind of reasoning goes back to my rant the other day.

          B.B.


  12. BB,
    I am definitely not one of the lynch mob. If Walther made a sweet shooting low powered .22 in the new LGV, fine. But why in god’s name did they make the .177 the more powerful version? Are they trying to realize a .22 target rifle?



    • Ton,

      I think we have to view these rifles separately. In Germany where these are made, any airgun over 5 foot-pounds it considered a firearm. So to a German, 12 foot-pounds, which is the legal limit for airguns in the UK, is considered a stretch. To them, a 12 foot-pound rifle seems very powerful.

      Here in the wild and wooly U.S. where there are no limits (nationally, at least), 12 foot-pounds seems limited. But you must realize that for a gun like the LGV, we are not considered to be the major market. That would be the UK.

      At least that is what I make of the situation.

      B.B.


  13. B.B., I just want to tell you that you are a wise wizard. The Crosman 3576 is now a joy to shoot because I learned that the single action hold and the double action hold are just plain different. Thank you for what you wrote about the 1911, accuracy and being comfortable with the gun.

    Also, this blog and the responses regarding the LGV is more than interesting.

    ~Ken


  14. Nice rifle, and yes, it did hit it’s claimed velocity, but with PBA ammo. Of course, I care more about adequate power and high accuracy, than just high-power. That’s OK. I like the fact that the trigger is light. That will make it easier to shoot, provided that you know how to deliberately squeeze a trigger.

    Its power is a bit on the low-end, so I think it’s the kind of air-rifle that would benefit from one specific, well-chosen, pellet. Something that’s not too heavy, but not too light. It will probably be limited to accurate shots taken at just under 40 yards, max, assuming it has the accuracy.

    Of course, my only issue with a rifle being too low in power (if it is), is the effects of wind on the pellet. The quicker it gets to its intended target, the lessor the effects of drift.

    This rifle is a bit on the pricey side, so it better be VERY accurate. I simply expect it to be.



  15. B.B.,

    What seems to be the difference between the Challenger and the Challenger Ultra? To me it looks like it’s the muzzle ornament. Does the Ultra have an actual moderator and not merely a muzzle break?

    Michael


    • Michael,

      The difference between the two guns is the muzzle brake which may be a silencer, but wouldn’t be effective because this is a springer and makes its noise in the rear.

      B.B.


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