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Education / Training R.A.I. Adjustable AR Adapter for Crosman 2240 pistols: Part 1

R.A.I. Adjustable AR Adapter for Crosman 2240 pistols: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier

This report addresses:

• Missing Part 3 of the adapter report on the Marauder pistol.
• Description of the 2240 adapter.
• Mounting the 2240 adapter.
• Adapter mounted — now what?
• How difficult is the adapter to install?

If you’ve been waiting for Part 3 of the report on the R.A.I. AR Adjustable Stock Adapter used on the Benjamin Marauder pistol, you’ve been waiting a long time. I tested the pistol at 50 yards for a Part 3 report, but the results I got were unsatisfactory. I didn’t think they represented what the pistol can do, so I didn’t report them — and now a lot of time has passed.

I still plan on writing that report when I get a good day at the range, but today I have something different to show you. R.A.I. stands for R. Arms Innovations, an Illinois-based company that makes adapters to connect adjustable AR stocks to various Crosman pistols and turning them into carbines.

Dave Rensing, the owner of R. Arms Innovations, got started by making an adapter so his young son and daughter could shoulder his Benjamin Marauder pistol. When he discovered that the adjustable AR stock makes it possible for the pistol to fit both young people and adults, alike, he knew he was onto something.

Crosman already makes a stock that converts many of their pistols into carbines. But the stock they make has a fixed length of pull. Either it fits or it doesn’t.

The innovative way Dave designed his adapter allows it to be adjusted for a variety of cast-off and cast-on (butt slanted toward the body or away from it) positions, cant angles plus a wide range of comb heights. In other words — a stock that can be easily adapted to fit most people.

This is all just old news for those who read the first 2 tests of the R.A.I. adapter and the Benjamin Marauder pistol. But, today, we’re looking at a different adapter — one that works with the popular Crosman 2240 CO2 pistol. This adapter will be more popular than the Marauder pistol adapter because there are many times more shooters who shoot and modify the inexpensive 2240 family of air pistols.

2240 adapter
The 2240 adapter is very similar to the Marauder adapter, except for the way it interfaces with the pistol. The Marauder has a threaded hole where the power is adjusted. The adapter can bolt directly to that. The 2240 doesn’t have a hole, and the 2240 end cap is flush with the pistol. The adapter for the 2240 had to include a new end cap into which the adapter can be bolted.

RAI adapter bolt
The Marauder pistol has a threaded hole in its end cap to accept the R.A.I. adapter bolt. The 2240 pistol end cap doesn’t have that threaded hole.

Mounting the adapter
To install this new end cap, the pistol’s end cap must first be removed. The rear sight screw and a screw at the top rear of the grip frame hold the 2240 end cap in place. You only need to remove these 2 screws and then the factory cap comes out of the pistol. Next, attach the new cap that comes in the R.A.I. kit. It has a threaded hole that you’ll need. The adapter will then attach to the gun like it should.

Crosman 2240 end cap
Crosman 2240 end cap (right) has been removed and the R.A.I. adapter end cap (left) is ready to be installed. Only two screws are removed for this. The R.A.I. end cap has the threaded hole that accepts the adapter bolt.

Once the adapter is attached, you can screw the buffer tube of any AR extendable stock to the other end of the adapter. I used the UTG 6-position Mil-Spec AR stock on the Marauder pistol, and I note that R.A.I. offers the same stock with some of their kits. Obviously, this is a high-quality stock at a good price.

RAI adapter mounted up
The R.A.I. adapter is mounted and swung up as high as it will go.

RAI adapter mounted down
The R.A.I. adapter is swung down as low as it will go. This lowers the butt considerably. And the adapter can be locked in position at any point around a complete circle.

stock extended
The UTG stock is attached to the adapter and extended as far as it will go.

Stock collapsed
The UTG stock is collapsed as far as it will go.

Now what?
Once the adapter is mounted and the stock is attached, what can you do? This is where Crosman 2240 owners can go nuts because the possibilities are virtually endless. You can use the gun just as it is, like I’m showing here. Crosman puts a peep sight on the 2240; but until you have a shoulder stock, you can’t use it. With the stock attached, I can switch the rear sight to the peep and use it.

But most 2240 owners will probably want to switch to a steel breech. It adds strength to the gun, plus there’s an 11mm dovetail rail on top for mounting scope rings. And that extra strength can be used to hold an 18-inch barrel! Now, you have a carbine that the stock is ideally suited for! Crosman sells all these parts very reasonably.

How hard is it to install?
I don’t like things that are difficult, so I worry when there are parts to be disassembled. But here is what it took to install this adapter. It took a total of 10 minutes for me to disassemble the 2240 and install the adapter and stock. That includes the time spent taking the pictures. It isn’t difficult at all!

In the next report, I get to do something I’ve wanted to do for years. I get to shoot this 2240 using the peep sight!

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

82 thoughts on “R.A.I. Adjustable AR Adapter for Crosman 2240 pistols: Part 1”

  1. B.B., I’m Stoked! I didn’t think anyone read my comment about an inexpensive, easily modified Co2 pistol,But you just answered my question in Grand style!
    Thank You Very much Sir!I I’ll start looking for one right now.


    • Reb You missed the part numbers I gave to convert those guns to a discovery breech and barrel. Well I gave the part numbers to convert a 1377. But I also did a 23002 and a 2240.

      But here is the part numbers and descriptions.
      Here is the part numbers.

      177 Disco barrel 1760SE-001
      177 breech assembly 1377SBPK

      22 Disco barrel 2260SE-001
      22 breech assembly 2240SBPK

      Crosman 760 barrel support 760D008
      screw that holds barrel 781A012

      custom shoulder stock 1399

      The transfer port sleeve/bushing is the same part number for the 1377, and 177 and 22 cal. Disco. So you can use the one that comes in the 1377. Or you can drill it out for some more air transfer. It not like worrying about maintaining shot count if you were to drill it out for a PCP gun. I think the biggest I went if I remember right was about .110″.

      Also here is the part number for the rubber gasket/seal that goes under the transfer port sleeve. Again it is the same for the 1377, and 177 and 22 Disco. 130-036 is that part number.

      Here is the breech assembly and 1399 shoulder stock that PA stocks.




      Hope that helps.

      And here is the link were I talked about it.

      • GF1,That looks like a lotta info to digest! Guess it’s time to catch up on my homework.
        Thank You,Sir,for coming thru like a Champ!
        See ya’ll some time next week!

      • Should say a 2300S at the top of my reply. Not a 23002.

        Oh and I forgot Dave lives about 10 miles or so from me. And I have his adapters on a few of my guns with the AR butt stocks. And you just cant believe how it locks in your line of sight.

        You shoulder the gun and its like you have a perfect sight picture through your scope without having to fiddle around and find it.

        And BB is right it is very simple to install and set up.

  2. Really neat idea with the stock. AR parts can be had all over the place, and the idea of adjustable pull length for older and younger shooters is a good one. I’ve never had a carbine style pistol before, so when I get around to building my 1377 up I’ll finally find out what the fuss is all about. In other news, I now own a chrony after many years flying blind so to speak. I promptly threw everything I own that shoots over it and discovered everything I own is well up to snuff velocity wise. I also discovered my trusty Gamo 440 is on its way out. I had it tuned by a certain fishy Charlie nearly ten years ago, and after many years of hard use interspersed with neglect, the cocking is getting extremely difficult and you can hear the metal galling internally on the cocking stroke, so its been unceremoniously retired to the gun rack on the wall. Now I’m on the hunt for something gas piston since I’ve never owned one and it seems all the rage, in the 12-16FPE range. I’m actually kind of looking forward to re-learning my springer hold techniques for these new guns. I’ll probably just buy a benjamin titan/trail or whatever they call them these days to hold me over until the nitro piston 2’s come out. I’m open to suggestions in .177; I need something relatively affordable,(sub $300, preferably $200) because as much as I want a HW98 or a TX200, I spent all my airgun fund for awhile on my LG-380. Anyhow, I’ll cut it off here, since I’m getting a bit long winded. If the weather is decent, I’ll do my review of the Slavia 631 I promised a little while back for you all. Cheers everyone!

    • Mitchell, congratulations on the acquisition of your second most valuable tuning aid! Right after I got my chrony my mind was racing with many different modifications for all my guns! Unfortunately most mods require full use of both hands so all that’s on hold until I get some more strength and coordination going on.I was just looking for an article explaining the differences,along with pro’s&cons of the 2240/50/60 Co2 guns,so I can get back to shooting something with more punch than my RedRyder.
      Can you help me find a good comparison?

      • I just did a quick google adventure, and I didn’t find anything detailed enough to satisfy me on the comparison of Crosman 22xx series guns. Plenty of forums with people modifying them out the wazoo and everything however. Then of course you have the chinese QB rifles in all manner of configurations if CO2 is the way you want to go. What exactly are you looking for, a pistol, rifle and I’ll try to help as much as I can Reb.

        • I’m looking for something to shoot that my left arm & hand can’t foul my shots, until I get it back in shape
          This puts me searching for a pistol built for tinkering on AKA 2240-$60
          Sounds good to me!

          • A 2240 can’t be beat for the price. I had one for awhile until I swore off .22 cal and powerlets and traded it to a neighbor. I’m still astounded from time to time how well some of these $60 Crosman gems can actually shoot, my current toy being a bone stock 1377. Thanks to Gunfun1 however, its getting a makeover later this summer to something a bit more “custom”. If you are anything like me, half the fun will be in the tinkering and customizing.

            • Mitchell I like my .177 Disco breech and barrel the best.

              I can pump it to whatever I want on the velocity. I was messing around and putting 2 pumps in the gun with some of the JSB 10.3’s and lobing the pellet mortar style out at a gallon milk bottle at 50 yards.
              I had to hold the gun at my hip and correct my hold and footing because I couldn’t see through the sight because of the angle I had to hold. But I watched were the pellets were impacting and made corrections till I hit. It was pretty fun. Then along came one of the pesty starlings out about 35 yards. I pumped it up to 10 and the starling was done. Very versatile gun.

              But like I said before you got to post when you biuld yours. But in the mean time Have Fun Shoot’n.

              • That sounds hilarious! The only time I ever did something like that was with my 760 pumpmaster. I used to try and see how far I could get it to shoot, watching for the dust to get kicked up in the gravel where it would eventually land. Also, even though I have a bird feeder going this year, I don’t get the pleasure of culling any of the pest species that are entirely too plentiful because of its location. I wouldn’t be able to take clean humane shots for safety reasons, so the invasive species have the run of the place. I envy some of you guys with 50+ yard backyards and feeders that need defending. I make do with 10 yards and trick shots however.

                • Mitchell
                  That’s exactly what I’m talking about. Just like your 760. Watch the dust fly! It will get you on target everytime. 🙂

                  And the 50yrd back yard is nice. But I really hate feeding the pests. Me and my wife was talking about that the other day. We have song birds all year and humming birds like crazy in the summer months.

                  But a dang squirrel managed to figure out how to get the bird feeder unhooked and ran off dragging the the feeder in his mouth. He caught me off guard cause I was bringing the BBQ in and I couldn’t set the food down quick enough to get to my gun by the door. Them sons of a guns are get’n smarter everyday. And you would think they would be happy with all the Oak trees and Walnut trees that we have around. But no they have to steal the bird feeder!

          • Reb and they seem light in weight when you pick them up. My 1377 with the steel breach and full length .177 Disco barrel and Daves adapter with the AR butt stock is about 3 and a 1/2 to 4 pounds with a red dot on it.

            So a 2240 or similar would have to weigh around the same I would think.

  3. And BB that end cap is like the one Dave used for my gun. He told me he was going to send you one.

    Look at it a little closer it is also adjustable for your spring tension for the striker. So now it allows you to have a bit of tuning capability’s when you install it on your gun.

    Look at the end cap he sent you in the second picture down.

    • Wow, that makes it even more versatile. The stuff we have available to us as airgunners is simply awesome these days. The only issue is knowing where to get all the bits and bobs. I’m learning as I go along, seeing as before you mentioned the 1377 mods to me, I had no real intention in diving into Crosman hot-rodding. What sort of red dot are you running on yours? I cant recall if you mentioned what it was.

      • Mitchell
        Here is the red dot I had on it for the longest time.

        But I got the See All Sight on it now with a UTG adapter. Here is the adapter.

        Here is the See All Sight.

        • That Hawke looks really nice for the price. I’ve only ever used red-dots a couple times on borrowed firearms, and they seem ideal for my 1377 build. Alternatively I could always get a wild hair up the backside and mount one to my IZH 46M. Also, I’ve been intrigued by the See-All since BB did the review on his a little while back. I’m a bit of a iron/open sights buff myself, so those are the kind of products I like to see pushing the bar and really innovating. So many neat ideas, so little money!

          • Also, ouch. $100 for that See-All seems a little steep. Then again, seeing that its proudly made here in USA makes me feel better about it. It certainly looks like its quality made almost to the point of over engineering.

            • Mitchell
              The See All really did turn out to be a nice little sight. The neighbor lady was borrowing the gun for a while and her granddaughters and grandsons was shooting at a 16 oz I believe it was plastic soda bottle at probably 30 yards or so and they were all hitting it everytime.

              I had a little trouble with it at first but when I figured out how to get the line of sight right and at what distances it worked at with airguns it was great. But yes the price is a little high. But it did allow me to shoot open sight again. So that was good on that point because I got a few things going on with my eye sight that messes with me some times.

              • When you say you figured out what distances it worked at with airguns, what do you mean by that? Presumably it should be usable (caliber and velocity dependent mind you) until you hit the main trajectory fall off beyond 50 or so yards.

                • Mitchell
                  I didn’t see your reply last night. But your talking about the See All Sight I guess.

                  The sight is a little tricky to use as for as learning how to line the point of the top of the triangle with the flat edge of the top of the magnifying lens. You don’t look through the sight you look over it and the magnifying lens magnifies the triangle and not the target.

                  So at first I had a little trouble with vertical strings with my groups that I was shooting on paper targets. Till I figured out to line up the sight then how to place the sight on the target. You have to line up 3 things. the flat part of the top of the lens to the top point of the triangle and then put the point of the triangle sitting in the center of your bulls eye.

                  And what I mean by distance for me anyway even bench resting the gun. It was harder for me to place the sight on the bulls eye the farther out the distance was that I was shooting at. I could make a shot at 50 yards at a 1 inch circle with sight but it was hard for me to see the circle good enough to place the sight on target. The sight in no way magnifies the object your shooting at. So as I moved in closer to the 1 inch circle I could see it better which allowed me to place the sight better.

                  So that’s how 30 yards came about. And everybody that I showed how to line the sight up hit the plastic 16 oz. soda bottle pretty much every time they shot at it at the 30 yrds.

                  I hope I explained that without making it confusing. And here is part 1,2,3 and 4 of the See All Sight that BB did.

            • It really needs a proper mounting clamp system (that push down screw to pull up the wings against the mount base doesn’t really ensure equal distribution — it usually comes up higher on one side or the other).

              • Wulfraed
                I really had to take my time to get the sight parallel to the adapter.

                I took the adapter and See All Sight to work one night. I took shim stock and slipped in between the adapter and sight in the front and rear of the sight.
                The shim stock pulled it up evenly then I tightened up the set screws and that got it pretty square. Oh and dont make your shims to long so you dont tighten the setscrews on the shims. You want pull the shims out aftef your all tightened up.

      • Also there is something that I forgot to say last night when I posted.

        I forgot that I took the 2400 end cap adapter that I got from Dave to work and turned it down to a smaller diameter. The tube that Crosman uses on the 1377/1322 is a smaller diameter tube than the 2240/2300 C02 guns.

        And If I remember right I believe he is working on something for the 1377/1322 guns. I checked the link that BB gave for his web site and I don’t see the end cap listed for them yet though.

        I just wanted to make sure somebody didn’t get one for the 2400 guns thinking they could use it on the 1377/22 guns.

        • Man I’m getting bad with numbers. Here is what I wrote.
          “I forgot that I took the 2400 end cap adapter that I got from Dave”

          It should be 2240 end cap not 2400.

      • And BB yes that will be good if you do a little tuning with the screw to show how it affects the velocity and other things. Alot of people are putting adjustable end caps on the Crosman guns so that will be a nice Little addition to one of your next reports.

        I had a adjustable end cap from a 2300S on my .177 call. Discovery. What was cool is you can turn the power up if your out hunting or eliminating pests. And also what I liked on my Discovery if you backed the adjusting screw almost all the way out. And I put some Superdomes through it the gun was pretty quiet without any add on quieting device. So then I could shoot the gun down in the basement without disturbing everybody in the house.

        • Its a wonder, I would never dial any gun down… Even if it was a low power plinker I always try to push it to its max. If it has a power adjuster I would probably try and fannagle it to get an 11 out of 10. Must be from the years of craving PBs and shooting 760s and airmaster77s, now I just push everything to the limit trying get the most power, not velocity, I can, then I make that power accurate. If I can’t get the most power accurate, then I’ll curb it back. I still crave the smell of Peter but alas, a pcp will have to do. When we talked about defense airguns and pistols, what about semi-auto pcps? Would a 8 or 10 shot .25 or .30 make anyone comfortable for home defense if they could not pop caps?

          • RDNA,

            Now you’ve done it! One of my favorite movies is “This Is Spinal Tap”:

            “Look, they all go to eleven.”

            “Is that good, eleven?”

            “Well, it’s one louder, innit?”

            “Why don’t you have it go to ten, but make ten louder?”

            “[Pause] This one goes to eleven.”


          • RDNA
            I could get myself in trouble answering this question.

            Here is my first thought that comes to my mind when I think of somebody breaking in to my house. Is that they are going to have a bigger gun, weapon or whatever we want to call it than me. And if I’m trying to protect my family that is just not going to work for me. I want the biggest baddest weapon to confront that person with. I want the odds in my favor. Its going to be more like a semi-automatic shot gun that they will be seeing when they come through my door. And maybe even 2 of them if I can run and the other one quick enough.

            As far as air guns go there is some pretty hard hitters out there now days. But I think I don’t want to think about airguns for that purpose. Just me. Maybe other people feel different and think a air gun would be able to be used. I just don’t know if I want to have the chance in a home invasion to try to give one a air gun chance. I think if somebody has the nerve to enter my house without being invited they ain’t going to worry about what they will destroy when they come in.

            When I was about 7 years old we had our house broke into and lucky nobody was home. I do know after that a shot gun got placed at the front and back door and my dad told my mom if somebody was at the door and they didn’t answer when you asked who it was. Shoot when the door opened. I was already familiar with guns and I can still remember my dad saying to stay away from them that they was there for my protection. Hands off. And if somebody came in to hide under the bed and not to come out no matter what till they were gone or mom came to get me.

            And well I follow that rule today that I got taught back then. Yep a shot gun at the front and back door. Its a shame that it has to be that way. But I ain’t letting anybody play with my life or my family’s life’s either.

            I hope I ain’t saying something here that I shouldn’t. But just trying to answer a question that got asked. So erase it if you think it should be Edith or BB.

            • Well, I’m not offended politically, and as far as I know, I am the bleeding heart in these here parts. That’s not to say that this thread couldn’t become politicized REAL fast, so Edith should keep her finger on the delete button just in case.

              Personally, I figure that if somebody breaks into my home and I have a gun stored safely, I won’t be able to get to it before he can pull his out from his wasteband. Therefore, to be of use, a gun needs to be loaded, within easy reach wherever I am in the house, and unlocked. How safe is that? I figure that the odds just might be about the same, at least if it were me, my house, etc., if I simply put my hands up.

              But what KIND of gun is the most effective for home protection? It is not every day that I quote Ted Nugent, but years ago he was on Bill Maher and said, and I quote, “Only a fool tries to protect his home with a handgun.” The panel sat there for a moment stunned into uncharacteristic silence. Bill Maher then asked, “Well, Ted, what would you recommend?” “If you want to defend your home, get a shotgun,” replied Nugent.

              I once heard someone else, and I don’t remember who, say in effect, that the sound of a pump shotgun being cocked is a fast-acting laxative to a home-invader.


              • There are electronic safes that provide secure storage, but allow access to a loaded weapon in a matter of seconds. No, if you wake up and someone is in your bedroom holding a gun on you it won’t do any good… but your only real chance (in any case) is to become aware of the intruder before he gets to that point.

                Of course, this really only works with a handgun… and with all respect to Mr. Nugent, an awful lot of people successfully defend themselves with something less than a shotgun…

                • Vince,

                  Agreed on both points.

                  My wife and I do have a burglar alarm / security system. If someone were to break into our house, we would get warning, as would the security company.

                  Our house is pretty much like a warren, though, and having one gun in one place would not probably help. It would probably take a half dozen guns in a half dozen strategically selected places.

                  I can’t help but think of my first college roommate and a story he told me. His quite old grandmother died, and he, at the age of maybe 10, helped his dad clean out her house the day after her funeral. He opened her closet and started to put her shoes in a box to go to the Goodwill. A tiny baby luger, loaded, fell out of a boot onto the floor. He freaked and handed it to his dad, who said, “Hey, I have one just like it,” and he held out a larger Luger he had just then found in her nightstand, loaded. In her linen closet, another loaded Luger. In her front closet, another loaded Luger. In a kitchen cabinet, another loaded Luger. One or more loaded Lugers in the parlor. In all there were maybe a dozen of them around the house. Each one loaded and unsecured.

                  But she and her family escaped Nazi Germany in the ’30s and must have lived through some scary moments. That said, even in the small Midwest town in which she lived her adult life, she felt everybody out there had a gun with them and was a cutthroat who would mug her at gunpoint. To her a small southern Illinois town in the mid-20th century was no different than Tombstone in the 1870s. She probably carried a little Luger around with her in her purse wherever she went.


              • The pump shotgun has three things going for it:

                The sound of cycling the action to load it may be sufficient to scare off the intruder
                The spread of shooting (fit it with a skeet/cylinder choke) reduces the need to precise aim
                The small mass of individual shot is less likely to penetrate walls and affect the neighbors (especially in an apartment/condo environment)

                Drawbacks: even a tactical model (long magazine tube, and 18.1″ barrel, collapsing stock, pistol grip) is still a two foot long object to be maneuvered around corners and doorways. At that point I’d be likely to consider my .30 M1 carbine (and I don’t have a paratrooper model) just as maneuverable, and while the ammo may penetrate the walls deeper, it holds more ammo, and weighs less than the shotgun.

          • RDNA
            A pump gun is a real good gun to mess with to see what starts happening to a pellets accuracy at different velocities.

            Here is a saying that we always had in the drag racing world.

            Some times you just have to slow down to go faster.

            Of course its a little different with air guns.

            • I totally agree, like we’ve already said, airguns are not suited, but what’s the alternative for those that can’t own a firearm? I would love to say whatever and just keep one quietly, but its not worth the risk. Even if something happened that justified its use, Im gone. The way things are going it may not matter for much longer anyway but when stuff hits the fan is not the time to find protection. I’ve had qquite a few powder owners tell me to basically do what you got to do, or move to new Hampshire.

  4. B.B.,

    Off Topic, but the Makarov comments section was an interesting read for me. While I consider revolvers the epitome of “gun-coolness,” in the field they are considered obsolete today, no? Sure, they can get the job done, but so might a match lock!

    My point is the subject of reliability vs. jammability of different models. I had thought the problem of semi-autos jamming was just part of the early days of their development/evolution, that for decades now a well-maintained, clean, not worn out semiauto would virtually never jam.

    The other day I was surprised by the comments. The Makarov, everyone agreed, is utterly dependable. A “non-accuratized” 1911, is almost utterly dependable. The implication, however, is that most other models jam enough to be a genuine gamble.

    If I were a peace officer, I would consider one jam in a thousand shots to be too risky for a life-and-death tool. Would a rock climber accept a 1 out of 1000 fail rate for a carabiner?


    • Michael,

      Modern pistols are not 100 percent reliable. Edith’s Glock 36 has failed to extract and failed to feed several times. It is very susceptible to malfunctioning if fired limp-wristed.

      That is why I said what I did about the Makarov. It is the only semiautomatic pistol I have ebver seen that doesn’t jam. Doesn’t mean it never will, but it never has for me — yet.

      I HAVE had revolvers malfunction, though. The common problem is when their action ties up from being dirty. Doesn’t happen when there is sufficient cylinder clearance, but I definitely have seen it happen.


      • Another thing to watch on revolvers is the ejector rod getting loose and backing out. That will tie things up in a hurry.

        I have not had a Glock 17 (9mm Luger) fail with factory rounds.


        • Mike,

          9mm Luger? No offense, but the other thing in that same discussion about the Makarov that sticks with me is how any round under .40 is so harmless that rather than shoot it, you might as well just throw it, right? (LOL, of course, but what is the point if it can’t “stop” someone?) From the way people talk, a 9mm rimfire is incapable of even breaking the skin. ;^)


          • The 9mm Luger is the common name for the 9mm Parabellum/9X19 cartridge. It’s a center fire round, not a rimfire. Modern 9mm premium HP ammo can approach the power of the .357 Magnum with the 124/125 gr. bullets. It can be very, very effective. If it didn’t work, it wouldn’t be the world’s standard round. While opinions vary, as with most cartridges, it is a proven round.

            Good Shooting!


            • Mike,

              Of course I was being tongue-in-cheek. After all, James Bond took care of an awful lot of bad guys with an 8mm PPK, right? Furthermore, what I know about powder-burning weapons would just barely fill a .22 short shell casing. Make that a CB cap casing.

              I guess that as with a lot of things, people tend to get caught up in the bigger, faster, stronger, more powerful mania that Tim Allen used to make light of on his show: “[Grunt, grunt] More power! [Grunt].” Then he’d end up with a turbine powered riding mower or something.

              None of us is immune to it, either. My wife and I have a big back yard, but our driveway is tiny. Still, when we went shopping for a snow blower, I wanted the biggest, baddest monster I could get. Fortunately, she was along for the shopping trip and stopped me before I made a complete fool of myself.


    • One thing to consider (and implied by your mention of stock issue 1911s).

      The 1911s that are least prone to jamming (with BALL ammo) are also those with the least accuracy (4″ is considered acceptable for a defense round at 10 yards) — my CCW class criteria was keeping shots within an 8.5×11″ sheet of paper (no aiming marks).

      But those old 1911s are highly prone to misfeed/jam if given modern flat-nosed and exposed-lead ammo.

      That said… At the class we had one person with a new Ruger 9mm… he finished the class using the instructor’s 9mm… The slide stop lever of the Ruger had a weak spring, and started bouncing up on each shot, blocking the action. In the meantime, my P99 was flawless during the 98 (I had two left when I got home from the two boxes of 50ea) round from that session. And didn’t misfeed during my original sessions at the range in CA when I’d bought it (I had changed out the front sight between those — it had been hitting low so I put the shortest front sight of the set on it, and stayed with 180gr .40S&W, as the 165gr, being faster, would hit even lower)

      [good thing I’d brought my other .40S&W — as a back-up — as I was the only one using such a large caliber for qualification]

  5. Wow.

    And Glock is one of the most sophisticated designs of ’em all, right? If IT jams every now and then, lesser designs must be labeled “Smucker’s Strawberry”!

    As for a revolver being dirty, well, my whole questions was presuming that the handgun is not worn out or dirty.

    I recall an episode of Law and Order in which the older detective, played by Jerry Orbach, and his younger partner have drawn their weapons in anticipation of encountering a bad guy, and the younger detective, holding a nondescript (to my uneducated eye, anyway) black semiauto, looks down at the older detective’s S&W revolver and chuckles that he should get into the modern world, and that he (the young detective) wouldn’t feel comfortable having only six shots. (I always thought the advantage of a semiauto was the lighter SA trigger, but again, what do I know?)

    The older detective makes a comment along the lines of, “When I need my weapon, I want to be sure it’s going to work for me.”

    Why haven’t handguns kept up with the latest technologies and design refinements that have made long guns (and air guns, for that matter) so sophisticated over the years?


    • Actually, and I hate to pose a possible answer to my own question(s), but might the technology that is lagging not be the semiauto handguns but rather the ammo for them? Have there been any groundbreaking advances in rimfire shell casing design over the past few decades that have to do with the mechanical handling of them inside the weapons?


      • Its funny you mention the reliability of airguns, and in all the shooting of AGs, I’ve never had one fail. That’s a lot of shooting too, probably in the hundreds of thousands with dozens of different guns. I know airguns don’t operate under the same stresses that firearms do but airguns are then more delicate. I guess the ratio of material sturdyness to stresses of operation is much more favorable to the airguns.

        • RDNA,

          I think about how amazing airgun technology has become all the time. Craftsmanship and build quality has, I think, dropped since the 1970s, but design and technology has improved at a breathtaking rate. It is especially amazing given how comparatively small the market is. (Or am I waaaay wrong? Globally, the restriction of firearms has perhaps made the market for airguns gigantic, a la Koreans designing large bore, immensely powerful air rifles to hunt deer and wild hogs.)

          Like so many things, the bottom end is cheap and cheaply made, while the top end is well made and VERY pricey. Don’t complain about the price of a $2500 air rifle until you hold it in your hands and see how it is made. You just might end up surprised that it costs ONLY $2500.

          Whenever I pick up my FWB 601, I am thankful that PCPs made single-stroke pneumatics obsolete, because if they hadn’t, there is no way on earth I could have been able to afford it.


      • Ammo designs in the last 20 odd years has improved drastically…

        Problem is that modern ammo tends to be exposed lead hollow-points — and may jam in guns designed for solid nose ball ammo (p.08, 1911, maybe the PP and PPK, Browning Hi-Power, P.38) unless the gun has been tuned for such blunt nosed ammo.

        Newer guns are designed for such ammo.

    • What sort of advanced technology would even apply? Lighter and stronger materials? A light pistol isn’t necessarily and advantage or particularly reliable, and structural failure isn’t really a big problem.

      How about somehow making a gun easier to control with less recoil? Outside a rocket-powered bullet (which has been tried, with poor accuracy), the physics simply won’t allow that to happen without some other serious compromises.

      For all their apparent mechanical complexities, handguns are essentially very simple mechanical devices. I believe there’s just not a lot of room for advanced technology to improve on them dramatically.

      • Vince,

        Lighter materials? Stronger materials? Why not? Has the use of high-tech polymers made handguns more advanced in the past 30 years?

        Recoil reduction? You bet. I just now read up a bit on Glock and their ingenious multiple safeties and their anti-recoil innovations. Still, I read that Glock felt the need to devise their own .45ACP alternative with a more robust casing. (Maybe plastic and a large caliber are not really meant for each other.)

        How about a revolver that has significantly less recoil, like the Rhino, which has a barrel almost in line with the shooter’s radius bone? I’ve read a .357 magnum Rhino has the recoil of a .38 Special.

        How about a semi-auto pistol that will not jam? Apparently there has been only one so far, despite semi-autos being around for over 100 years. That blows my mind, how little semi-auto pistols have come in 100 years. Why are they still so primitive? Or is the jamming issue because they are not simp[le enough? When was the last time a single-shot pistol jammed?

        I have a Feinwerkbau 300s that has no felt recoil to the shooter, and that design is decades old! How old is the Giss design? How old is the Makarov, and why can’t other manufacturers duplicate that jam-free design into other semi-autos? (Obviously Maks, like AKs, are made just about everywhere, but why can’t Colt or S&W or Beretta or Walther do it?)

        It simply doesn’t make sense.


        • The problem is that making guns lighter, even with stronger materials, makes them more difficult and more intimidating to shoot. We already have handguns that are a handful WITHOUT resorting to exotic materials… making them even lighter will not improve things.

          The Rhino sorta proves my point. It doesn’t use any sort of innovation… rather, all it does is rearrange the parts so that the recoil is directed into the hand in way that is easier to tolerate. The actual recoil energy doesn’t change. There’s no reason the Rhino couldn’t have been made 50 years ago, or even 100.

          • Vince,

            You are correct, of course. But just because someone could have manufactured a Rhgino type revolver doen’t mean it isn’t an innovation now that someone HAS done it. Someone could have invented movable type 100 years before Gutenberg did it, but no one did.

            All of the materials were there for the FWB 300s Howitzer-type action, but until . . . OK, I’ll stop. :^)


    • The trend in defensive semi-autos has be toward DAO (double-action ONLY). While the 1911 is single-action only, my collection (SW459, SW4006, P99) are DA/SA models (first shot is double action, follow-ups are single action — unless one cocks the hammer on the SWs, and on those the safety will uncock the hammer, so no cocked&locked mode).

      DAOs tend to have no independent manual safeties, and no decocking levers (as mentioned, the SWs I own have safeties that also do decocking — choice is apply safety and carry uncocked/locked, or apply safety to decock and then release the safety for uncocked/unlocked; the P99 has a plain decocker). EVERY shot is full double action pull on a DAO. No transition (one of the complaints about DA/SA is that the first shot is long at high weight, and then the subsequent shots are shorter strokes [relocate trigger finger?] and light weight [where light is 4-6lbs, and DA is 10-13lbs]).

      Since my CCW arrived yesterday, I’m going to go shopping for a “rat”* gun (minimum 9mm) preferably with DA/SA action as I am used to that, but still small enough for a Sneaky Pete holster. I have a plastic slide for the P99 but a full duty size gun is a bit large for routine wear — and more exposed.

      * I’m not considering .22LR/.25ACP/.ACP “mouse” guns, and I’m not quite ready to consider even modern .380ACP rounds proper defense loads — If I did, a Walther PP, PPK [american made], PPK/S would have the action I desire.

  6. There may be discussion about the AR action, but no one seems to have any complaints about the stock design.

    B.B., thanks for the info about the Anschutz 54 action. Yes, I felt vindicated since I myself was able to put 10 shots into a dime at 50 yards. Wolf Match ammo was good enough for the job. It was a real case of the Jaws of the Subconscious. Chomp.


    • I seem to recall a certain online air gun guru complaining about tactical buttstocks that are as comfortable to place a cheek on as a piece of pipe would be, or something to that effect. ;^)


      • Exactly why I left the A2 stock on my AR.

        I gotta say though, and this is certainly no slam of the adaptor, but the 2240 with that stock is downright ugly. No big deal if you’re shooting alone, but the guys at the range I frequent would tease me mercilessly.
        It’d be like standing on the firing line with my mother-in-law!

        They’d throw sticks!

        • DD
          Here is a modded 2250. It has the 1399 stock.

          I think its because of the short barrel in BBs pictures above that throws the gun out of proportion. I think the 2250 would look good with the RAI adapter and AR butt stock.

          I also have a .25 cal. Marauder rifle with the 2200 series pistol grip assembly with one of the RAI adapters on it with the AR stock. I bet if you was 20 yards away from the .25 cal. Marauder rifle you would possibly think its a fire burning AR. You know one of those scary black guns.

          But when I do my Disco barrel and steel breech on the 1377 with either stock. The 1399 or the RAI set up I like the way both set ups look with the long Disco barrel. Anyway just my opinion. But yes the one BB has pictured makes the gun look big on the backside. Hmm that made me think of something else now that I need to ask BB.

  7. Hey Ya’ll, check this outhttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CE8QtwIwBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DZ20jk_0VLwo&ei=iwpsU5aLENOgyASJsIGQCQ&usg=AFQjCNHkql-cLNt8Zvcf6fPE4t2XlDeG9w&sig2=fN8pLrK_rIAolDuEWgx-Yg

  8. BB I was just leaving a reply to dangerdongle and it made me think of something.

    Do you think you can do this. You mentioned that you will report about the spring pressure adjustment that is made into the RAI end cap.

    When you do that test in your normal form that you use and you test for velocity and accuracy. Maybe you can get one of the steel breech kits that PA sells that I listed above and get you a .22 cal. Disco barrel and see what kind of results you get after putting the longer barrel on the gun and use the RAI adapter and AR stock. Then just unscrew the AR butt stock off the gun and the adapter and leave the adjustable RAI end cap installed. Then put the 1399 stock on the gun and do the accuracy test with that stock. It would show if the ergonomics of the RAI design is a benefit or not.

    BB do you think that test would show what I just talked about? If so maybe you can add that into the next part of your review. And just think you can then be in the Crosman Hot Rod Mod club if you do the Disco barrel thing. And then you can let us know if you thought it was a easy or hard to do mod.

    Sorry Mitch I stole the Hot Rod Mod thing from you when you were talking about modding your 1377 above.

  9. I want to connect my 22 lr suppressor to my Crosman 2240 and 2300T.
    My suppressor is threaded 1/2×28 which is standard for 22 lr suppressors in the USA.
    Does someone know where I can buy a suppressor mount for the 2240 and 2300T?
    My email is epeyton7@aol.com.

    • Earl,

      As far as I know, there will be no airgun silencer adapters that will fit your can. Airgun silencers are all made with 1/2X20 threads, because that is what they use in the UK. In the U.S.A,. all legal silencers use 1/2X28 threads

      You will have to get someone to machines an adapter for you.


      • I have an adaptor that changes 1/2×20 threads to 1/2×28 threads that I use on 22 rifles.
        There is a company in the UK that makes 2240 silencer adaptors with 1/2×20 threads but they will not ship to the USA.
        Do you know of someone that will ship to the USA?

        • For legal purposes, I suspect no one will…

          Even if it’s to fit a firearm silencer to an airgun — the mere possibility of a dismountable silencer is a problem in the US.

  10. interesting b.b. now I have more toys to add to my 2240. hope my wife don’t see this cause she is still vapor locked over my stevens 200 in 22-250 going to the gun doctor for a new laminate stock,barrel to action trueup,polish the trigger,and jeweled bolt. but hey its my toys .

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