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Education / Training Umarex NXG APX multi-pump air rifle kit: Part 2

Umarex NXG APX multi-pump air rifle kit: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord, The Godfather of Airguns™
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Part 1

Umarex NXG APX rifle
Umarex NXG APX multi-pump air rifle.

This report covers:

• Standard velocity test
• Second test
• What does this mean?
• Third test
• Fourth test
• Fifth test
• Making sense of the data
• Other observations

Today, we’ll look at the velocity of the Umarex NXG APX air rifle, and I learned some interesting things.

Standard velocity test
First, I did my standard velocity test. That’s where I pump the rifle a number of times and record the velocity for each set of pumps. For this test, I always use a Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellet — assuming a .177-caliber air rifle, of course. Let’s look at the results of that test.

Pumps…Velocity (f.p.s.)
3                465
4                527
5                568
6                590
7                601
8                609
9                622
10              626

Pump head dried out
As I shot this series, I noticed the air intake grew less dramatic as the pumps increased. I didn’t do anything about it right away; but in the next string, I decided to oil the pump head. You’ll see the difference that made. Just so you know. I did not oil the pump head before starting the last string, because I’d already oiled it in the last test session, which was a week ago.

Second test
What I do in the second test is pump the gun the same number of times and record the velocity for a string of 10 shots with the same Premier lite pellet. This string is where I noticed that the pump head seemed to be drawing in less air with each shot. For each shot shown below I pumped the rifle 5 times.

Shot…Velocity (f.p.s.)
1                555
2                528
3                522
4                524
5                521
6                522
Oiled the pump head at this point.
7                546
8                550
9                544
10              537

What does this mean?
It’s very clear that oiling the pump head boosts velocity. And the reason for that can only mean one thing — more air is getting into the valve’s reservoir. Why more air gets in would seem to be because the pump head is doing a better job of sealing the compression tube on every pump stroke. Oil will certainly do that. I need to keep an eye on this for the rest of the test.

Third test
For the third test, I used a lighter pellet — an RWS Hobby wadcutter. Umarex sent a tin of them with the rifle. Normally, I would expect this pellet to go much faster than the 7.9-grain Premier lite used in the first 2 tests.

Instead of doing the entire first test again, I pumped the rifle 3 times and shot, then 5 times and shot and finally 10 times and shot. That should give a good cross-section of the entire pump test done previously.

Pumps…Velocity (f.p.s.)
3                428
5                478
10              598

Something didn’t seem right about this test. In all cases, the lighter Hobby pellets went slower than the Premiers. I thought it might be the oiling, which I planned to do another time, so I moved on to the lightest pellets I had — RWS HyperMAX lead-free pellets.

Fourth test
RWS HyperMAX lead-free pellets weigh 5.2 grains and are among the lightest pellets around. They should really scream in the APX, and in fact they are the pellets that Umarex advertises as getting 800 f.p.s. in this rifle. As with the Hobbys, I pumped 3 times and shot, 5 times and shot and finally 10 times and shot.

Pumps…Velocity (f.p.s.)
3                407
5                539
10              626, 569, 561

As you can see, the velocity is dropping off again. So, I oiled the pump head once more and switched to BBs.

Fifth test
For this test, I loaded 10 BBs into the reservoir, because the APX is a repeater when it’s shooting BBs. I used Umarex Precision Steel BBs that came with the rifle. The pump head is freshly oiled for this test.

The BBs come out of the reservoir in a long line, but are limited by the width of the pellet trough. The bolt pushes one BB ahead into the breech and the rest have to wait their turn.

Umarex NGX APX rifle BB loading
BBs want to pour out of the reservoir but are stopped when the first one attaches to the magnet on the tip of the bolt. That BB stops the rest from coming out.

Pumps…Velocity (f.p.s.)
3                506
4                558
5                575
6                589
7                814??? (585 on the second try)
8                654
9                621
10              638

It seems the pump head dried out in the middle of this string, so I oiled it again and pumped the rifle 10 more times. The final shot on ten pumps went 741 f.p.s.

Making sense of the data
It would seem from this brief test that the rifle I’m testing needs very frequent oiling to maintain its maximum velocity. It also seems that 800 f.p.s. is beyond the rifle I am testing for you. BBs seem to have shot faster than any pellets, which is exactly what I expected would happen.

I doubt anyone is going to shoot their rifle with an oil can in hand, so these data must be taken with a grain of salt. Therefore, I did one final test string of 10 shots with the Premier lite pellet that seemed to give the most favorable results. I did not oil the gun for this test…but it’s been oiled already 3 times today, so it should be good to go.

Ten shots averaged 604 f.p.s. and ranged from 597 to 614 f.p.s. So, the rifle seems to have settled down to that velocity. When I look back at the Daisy 880 test I did earlier this year, Premier lites went 645 f.p.s., so the velocity of the APX is approximately equivalent.

Other observations
The cocking effort got much smoother as this test progressed. I didn’t mention it but I actually shot the rifle an additional 35 times on 10 pumps per shot, just to try to break it in a bit.

The trigger-pull measures 2 lbs., 3 oz. for stage one, and stage two breaks at about 8 lbs. — though it varies several ounces shot-to-shot. At this point in the test, I have to say the APX reminds me a lot of the Daisy 880. Accuracy comes next, and I have to test the rifle with both pellets and BBs and also with the scope. So, there are several more sections coming.

author avatar
B.B. Pelletier
Tom Gaylord is known as The Godfather of Airguns™ and has been an airgunner for over a half-century, but it was the Beeman company in the 1970s that awoke a serious interest in airguns. Until then, all he knew were the inexpensive American airguns. Through the pages of the Beeman catalog, he learned about adult airguns for the first time. In 1994, Tom started The Airgun Letter with his wife, Edith. This monthly newsletter was designed to bring serious reports about airguns to the American public. The newsletter and Airgun Revue, a sister magazine about collectible airguns, was published from 1994 until 2002, when Tom started Airgun Illustrated -- the first American newsstand magazine about airguns. Tom worked for three years as technical director at AirForce Airguns, the makers of the Talon, Condor, and Escape precharged air rifles. Today, he writes about airguns and firearms for various publications and websites. He also makes videos, and you'll find short clips embedded in some of his artices on Pyramyd AIR's website. Tom is a consultant to Pyramyd AIR and writes under the name of B.B. Pelletier.

145 thoughts on “Umarex NXG APX multi-pump air rifle kit: Part 2”

  1. BB
    Is the pimp head seal a rubber cup type seal or a hard plastic type and is there a felt oil wiper on the head behind the seal like on daisy’s. It seems to be oil hungry for some reason. Did you notice any oil mist coming out of the barrel when you did your final string of ten CP lites that would indicate that the oil is getting all the way through the valve and into the barrel. Which could indicate why it is so oil hungry or do you think it will take some time for it to break in and create a good seal to the compression chamber bore like rings in a engine have to do.


    • Buldawg,

      The pump head has 2 rubber o-rings, a felt wiper and a synthetic pump cup. Like I said — it is very long and robust.

      I agree that it probably needs breaking-in, which is why I tried to do that by pumping it 10 time for 35 consecutive shots. The velocity dropped and seemed to stabilize, but pumping became easier and so did cocking.


      • I’m pretty much a newbie (returned newbie — I did own an original Daisy Red Ryder lever-action BB gun when I was about 6 [and I didn’t shoot my eye out!]), but could you explain your method of oiling (and what oil you use) to take care of the the pump head’s “2 rubber o-rings, a felt wiper and a synthetic pump cup”?


        Bart Brown

          • “Here are some topics I will cover in this series in the future:

            How to oil a spring-piston gun:
            Underlever and sidelever
            How to oil a BB gun
            How to oil a single-stroke pneumatic
            Should you oil a precharged pneumatic?
            Oiling airguns for lubrication, not sealing
            Have I missed anything?”

            Can you tell me where I can find these topics?


            Bart Brown

  2. That sounds to me like a ridiculous amount of oiling.

    Here is one for ya. I broke a pump handle on a 880 when I was a kid. Why? Because I was being a kid. I wanted the thing to shoot like my .22 cal. Benji pump gun. Remember the old thick glass Coke bottles that had the spiral up the neck to the cap.

    Well my Benji would shatter them at 25 yards but the 880 wouldn’t. So out came the oil and try to get as many pumps in the 880 as possible. Gun between the legs and both hands on the pump handle. Don’t remember how many pumps I got when the handle broke. I did shoot the gun though. A nice white cloud came out of the barrel and I heard the pellet hit. And I will be darned the bottle was broke when the fog cleared. Oh yea we tried before to break the Coke bottle with the 880 and no luck.

    I think I learned something from that though. Over oiling and to many pumps is probably not a good thing.

    Ah but another Internet story. Is it fact or fiction?

  3. Yes the reason I did not do the luger was I wanted the working action, but back to this rifle.

    I wonder if it will get a little less oil hungry after it gets broken in. We all know air rifles tend to have a mind of their own when out of the box new.

    For the price I am still going to pick myself up one once they come in. I have been hooked on multi pumps here lately….all I seem to want to shoot. I look forward to your next part about how accurate it is. I have been shooting the trigger off a couple of 2100’s (airmaster 77’s really) and have been amazed at how accurate the $60 guns are….not accurate for a $60 gun, but just accurate. I am having so much fun with them it is like the commercial….I am neglecting my chores and the wife is getting a bit miffed.

    • Greg,

      I think what you are seeing in this first report is my experience breaking-in this rifle. I do agree that it will settle in and probably also settle down as it seems to be doing. The way I blast though so many tests I don’t often have the opportunity of just shooting a gun a thousand times like an owner might.

      That is why I shot those extra 35 break-in shots — to seer if the gun was just needing to be shot a little more. And this one seems to need that.


    • Kevin,

      It was a lot of pumps, for sure. But I felt I might have over-oiled the pump head and I wanted to give the rifle the chance to blow out some of the excess oil.

      I think after accuracy testing I might come back and check velocity again — just to see where the gun settles in.


        • Kevin,

          Pyramyd AIR sent out an initial email promotion announcing this on August 19, and they’ve listed it on the rotating banner carousel on their home page at least one time. It’s not there now, but it will undoubtedly make an appearance as the time draws near.

          I believe they also sent out a press release about it.


          • Edith,

            Maybe I’m not PA’s target market since I’m so far away but I’ve never seen it before this morning. Still can’t find it on PA’s site.

            Only 7 days left to get special pricing. Only 31 days before the event. Wish I was closer (to the event not to Ohio).


            • Kevin
              I was talking to RDNA and he asked me about that event the other day. I saw it listed before also. Then I didn’t see it listed anymore. I found it by clicking on the Pyramyd AIR 20% payback link. Its highlighted in red. If you click on the red high light it will also direct you to the Pyramyd AIR cup event.

              I would be interested in that $200 target shoot off. Or just going to shoot some of the guns they will have at the range if I read correct. Although the field target event does sound interesting also.

  4. I had this gun for 3 days a month or so ago. I returned it for the light plastic feel and for foolishly thinking cphps would be anywhere near the advertised velocity. The beefed up number won out, with me boasting my better knowledge that a light lead might be around 700. Its perfect for younger shooters in the 10 to 16 year range, or people that just want a light plinker that is EXTREMELY easy to load. Im surprised you didn’t touch more on that easy loading trough in the last report. All in all its a good gun in the category, very affordable and might be a very many new shooters first gun. I liked it but wasn’t what I needed, just an impulse buy and couldn’t resist checking it out.

  5. By the by, I had already bored the breech, very carefully faded the rifling in over a space of about 3/8, little less. It will take a larger pellet without squishing it into the rifling, but no pellet is loose or falls out. I am picturing pellets engaging the rifling more evenly, more completely, and especially for the larger pellets. Im thinking the initial blast of air starts the pellet moving, but then getting a longer maintained pressure by the forced engagement, possibly making better use of a longer barrel then necessary in a springer, or its all in my undocumented dreams…

    • RDNA
      Got some numbers for you and maybe a little more insight to chambering a springer barrel for more FPS.
      First the results of my chrony testing with all 3 spring guns.
      Crosman/Firepower clone spring gun in 177, 7.9gr CPHPs = 940 fps and they were a snug fit in barrel
      10.5gr CPs ultra magnums = 800 fps and they were a looser fit in barrel.
      Crosman nitro Venom gas spring in 177, 7.9gr CPHPs = 940 fps and snug fit in barrel, 10.5gr CPs ultra magnums = 840 fps and also snug fit in barrel, more so than in Firepower barrel which is what I think accounted for the higher fps.
      Benjamin Titan GP nitro in 22, 12.65gr H&N HPs = 800 fps and very tight fit in barrel, and then the 14.3gr CPHPs that I told you yesterday = 740 fps and snug fit in barrel.

      I think that the difference in the fit of the 10.5 CPs between the nitro gun amid the spring gun is why the nitro did 40 fps better than the spring gun due to the pellets fighting tighter in the nitro barrel than in the spring guns barrel. All these were ten shot tests with the guns getting two drops of RWS spring gun oil and shot 5 times to clean the oil from the chambers.

      I think that the only way you could know if chambering the barrel would be of any benefit is if you knew the exact diameter of the barrels minor dimension on the top of the land in the rifling and then measured every pellet type to get it exact OD so that you knew just how much difference there was between the barrel and the pellets and the exact amount of chambering OD was done and to what degree the taper in the chambering was also. It in my opinion would be way to much trouble for the possible insignificant gains you might get.

      I am very happy with my 3 guns numbers and the only real difference I can see and feel between the spring gun and the 2 nitro guns is just a slight more recoil on the spring gun and a better trigger feel on the nitro guns. The spring gun has A GRTIII trigger in it that is set at the adjustment as received from CDT and does not really have a discernable first or second stage, it is just a very light and crisp pull and it releases . The 22 nitro gun also has a GRTIII trigger in it and has a definite first and second stage that is very smooth and crisp, and the 177 nitro gun is a stock trigger that is just about the same as the 22s but the release point is not as definite or crisp.
      Let me know your thoughts. It may be a little bit before I get back to you, as I am going to sight in the 177 nitro gun.


      • I said in a reply to gunfun on the hakim just now that the results I really looked to achieve was consistent rifling engagement, put em in and having em go back and forth and marking up the nose drives me nuts. By opening it up for just that space for the pellet they al go in unmarked and aligned with the bore, engaging theoretically the exact same every shot. I also, ( in high hopes ) hypothesis that the skirt will have a chance to flare while or, even better, just before engaging for a good seal. No chrony, no grief if Im wrong but it seems to be working out.

        • RDNA
          How are you chambering the breech and what are you using. I may try it if you are using a tapered reamer so that there is no step in the bore from the smooth portion into the rifling. if you are using a drill bit then there will be a small ledge that the pellet has to climb to engage into the rifling and I do not want any ledge. The domed pellets go into my barrel easy with just a little effort to get the skirt fully into the barrel. The H&N hollow points that I shot today did fit tight from the head of the pellet and then again at the skirt. I believe it would be different for different pellets depending on the shape and advertised diameter/actual diameters.

          Tell me more on how you chambered your barrel.


          • That’s what it is, a taper with no edge just after the nose of the pellet when its loaded, and when loaded it fits in like a glove without pressing and not falling out. I used a small round file, the medium cut which I actual mostly used the tapered square handle after the rough cut of the file took out enough. I watched with a loupe and flashlight as I went until there was about 1/32nd of an inch of lands left at the muzzle, then a smaller fine round file that has a very gradual taper, goes in about 2, 2.5 inches but is only touching the last .25″ smoothed and second champhered it til there was just the indication of lands at the breech. Very gentle at the end, the file wants to dig in like a screw the way the teeth are cut so spinning counterclock most of the time. When it looked clean I ran a heavy cotton clothesline rope back and forth for quite awhile to deburr.

            • RDNA
              I think that is a pretty ingenious way you did it and I may try it later down the road after I get the scopes I want on my 3 springer’s and see how they perform and what kind of accuracy they have.
              Did you see any improvement in accuracy after you did that, I wish you had a chrony to know if it improved the fps any. That would be the only way to know for sure if it helps or hurts, but as long as your accuracy did not suffer then it most likely did help some rather than not.

              I will keep in the list of my mods to try after I get some more shooting time on my nitro guns so I know they are broken in and doing the best that they can and may try it on my 22.


        • RDNA
          I was going to reply over there but just saw this post.

          I think its a good idea. I think that diameter you open it up to needs to be just deeper than how long your pellet is. And as far as the diameter goes open it up just enough so the pellet is a nice slip fit. I think that diameter would need to be able to hold the pellet in position if you have a break barrel so the pellet doesn’t try to come out when your closing the break barrel. I fit was a fixed barrel gun I see no worries about the pellet coming out. You just may need to tilt the muzzle end of the gun down so it wouldn’t fall out before the bolt I guess you would call it is closed.

          I don’t like that either when the pellet is put in not true to the barrel when your loading a break barrel. Well even my 54 Air King and then also the AirForce guns you have to seat the pellet flush with your thumb.

          I don’t know it may just work. But you would probably need a secondary angle from were you load the pellet to were the pellet engages the rifling. In other words another lead in chamfer to transition smoothly to the rifling.

          I think though if air is getting around the skirt of the pellet its going to make more problems than what we make when we load by hand on a normal lead in chamfer. I don’t really know what to think. But if somebody trys I want to know the results.

        • Because of the O-rings, which don’t accept all types of lubricants. An airgun “diesels” when the piston slams forward and ignites some oil due to its rapid compression – just like a Diesel engine works. The PCP makes the opposite, it relaxes the pre-compressed air, which cools down during the process. This actually cools the barrel, and can lead to water condensation inside.

          • Mel,
            Granted this seems to be the result of someone trying to use oxygen I believe But I’m sure there’s a reason why you must use an oil-less compressor for your first stage pump that’s very closely related.

            • When filling in air, the reservoir becomes hot. I guess this is what happened to the oxygen-filled airgun, and is the reason why you need an oil-less compressor.

              As for dieseling during the shot….there is some speculation that in a Pcp, the expanding air slams into the epmtpy space bewteen pellet and valve, and can lead to a detonation. However, I found no real data on this so far…and personally, I doubt the effect.

              • Air passing the exhaust valve and any other parts that have oil on them can aerosolize the oil and create a highly combustible vapor.This combined with the compression of any headspace( even the hollow of the skirt or transfer port) can have catastrophic results. Once it starts burning it won’t stop until either oxygen or fuel is depleted. I really hope you don’t find out the hard way.It only cost me an exhaust valve and down time.


  6. BB, what kind of oil did you use? Not saying that was the problem, was just wondering. Thickness of oil plays a part too. I had a Crosman 760 (my first ever pump rifle) that developed a leak (no doubt from pump 15+ times to “up” the power (yes I was a young then). After the seals started leaking, I switched from my dad’s 10w40 engine oil to STP Oil Treatment. I be darned it worked as long as I shot it not too long after I pumped it. The compression went up, thus the fps increased. Thanks, Bradly

  7. I was anxiously awaiting your report with one hand on my wallet. Now, I will be waiting for further developments. Hopefully, this rifle will deliver the goods! Thanks for a very useful report.

  8. One thing I’m finding with many guns over a long period of time is that you will devolve onto ones that are most convenient to use. Temperamental guns prone to breakdown are to be wary of.

    Gunfun1, by barrel-burning I meant premature wearing of the barrel from large powder charges. This is like the 22-250, the .243, .270 and the incomparable 220 Swift.


          • Gunfun
            I got the nitro Venom sighted in my backyard with the 3x9x32 scope it came with, but that is not going to stay on it. Like I Said I am going to swap the stocks between the firepower and the Venom to save some weight as the wood stock is heavier than the synthetic one. Then I just bought another Hammers scope from gun broker for 55 bucks to put on the synthetic stocked Venom. The Firepower already has the Hammers scope on it and sighted in at 35 yards, I just need to sight to 50 yards with the 10.5 CPs to see if it will stretch that far with a consistent POI, and if it does then I will sight the Venom to the same distance with the same style Hammers scope I just bought. Then put the 3x9x32 from the Venom on the 22 nitro gun for shooting in the backyard and some hunting. Once I get them all sorted out . I will get back to my hipacs.

            Then once the hipacs are dependable I will sight them and the Hatsan in all together at the same time. It will be easier to sight all the springers at once because I don’t need any fill equipment to get them completed. Then I can concentrate on the PCP guns and have a better attitude knowing I have the springer done and am making headway in getting all my guns to where I can enjoy them without having to shoot and fix and shoot and fix.

            I do have a question on the Hawke scopes we have and that is are they rated for spring guns recoil shock loads or are they safer to use one non spring guns. I like the half mil dot but don’t want to tear one up from the springer recoils. I can estimate between the mil dots good enough to hit 1 inch kill zones at 30 to 40 yards so I know that Hammers scopes will hold up to spring guns as that is what they are designed for but just was not sure on the Hawke scopes and the Hammers are only 55 bucks, they are not side focus either but I can live without that. The 2 Leupold/CV life scopes will go on my hipacs and the hawke is going to stay on the Hatsan.

            So that is the plan right now and I need to get it all done by the first weekend in November for the hunter class matches, and right now I am planning on using the nitro venom/dusk for the hunter match at first. The reason I said dusk is because that is what crosman calls there synthetic stocked venom. So I guess I am making a nitro dusk and a spring powered vantage with the stock swaps.
            Let me know about the Hawke scope for magnum springer use.


              • Gunfun
                That’s is good to know and I will get another one down the road as I like the half mil dot reticle, but right now the 150 is just to steep for my budget. So I will make do with the hammers scopes until I can afford another hawke and then I can sell my hammers.

                I just got done swapping stocks and putting the GRTIII trigger into the nitro venom now a dusk so I will see what the difference it makes shooting it some tomorrow as the second stage with the stock trigger was difficult to predict when it would release.


                • buldawg
                  Your wearing me out with all the stuff your doing to your air guns. But I think your getting closer to enjoying them.

                  And I don’t remember how many of the other scopes you have bought or got with your guns but I bet you could of got one more Hawke scope with the money you put out on the others. I did that scope trying out stuff too. So far the Hawke scopes have all the features of the higher dollar scopes out there plus the 1/2 mildot reticle.

                  And I don’t know if you have went to the Hawke website yet. But if you haven’t you need to and down load their free Chairgun ballistic program they have available that is air gun specific and covers their scopes with different reticles like our 1/2 mildot scopes.

                  You can plug in some information to the program and get some neat results. They have a bunch of pellets stored in the memory also and gives the coefficient of the pellet and grains of the pellet. It will give fpe for the fps you punch in for a certain pellet. And you can even print out the reticle map for holdover and under with your setup and it will fit on your flip up scope cover.

                  • Gunfun
                    Wearing you out its tiring me out also. I just want them to be a certain way and can’t seem to ever be satisfied with leaving them alone other than my hatsan,
                    You are probably right on the scope thing as I have 2 leopold 3.5×10 x40 side focus illuminated reticle, will have 2 hammer 3x9x40 AO and the Aimpoint 10 x40 x50m side focus and then 2 4×32 and 1 3x9x32 and one 3x9x40 and a 2×7 x20. so I could have most likely gotten at least two Hawkes but several of the scopes I had before you turned me on to the hawkes. I have dowmloaded the hawke BC app to my iPhone but have not used it yet. I think I have the chairgun program on my PC also but have not used it either. There just never seems to be enough time in a day to do everything that I need to do, I don’t know how I worked and still did everything else to boot also.

                    I will have to check out the chairgun and learn to use it.


                    • buldawg
                      The Chairgun is a cool little program. Let me know when you start messing with it.

                      Tell me about working and hobbies and kids and wifes and… well you know what I mean.

                  • Gunfun
                    I got the Chairgun pro 4 saved in my favorites now and I just have to start playing with it to learn how to use it. I will let you know when I get to using it .

                    Yea I don’t have any kids at home anymore, just g-kids on the weekends mostly so I can only imagine how busy you stay. It sure seemed easier back when I was raising mine that it appears to be now, I know all the technology is supposed to make are life’s easier, but I still have not really seen how it has helped versus back before we had all these devices and stuff.


                    • buldawg
                      I think I accidentally erased this email and missed it.

                      One thing to remember about the Chairgun is it is a estimating tool. Its not set in stone dead on thing but it does let you get a visual of your set up and what happens if you change something.

                      I like punching in different things and see what changes it makes on the graphs.

                  • Gunfun
                    yep I know it is not exact as there are still many variables that it cannot account for but I will start to use it top see what it is all about and see what it can do for me.

                    I will definitely use it to graph my hipacs strings to help understand the curve better.


                    • buldawg
                      I think you will like it.
                      Somebody on the blog told me about it and I don’t remember who it was.

                      But I checked out some other ones and none compare to the Chairgun program.

                      Been using it ever since.

                  • Gunfun
                    Yea I remember reading about it awhile back also, but don’t remember who told us about it either.

                    I have to start playing with it and seeing what it is all about.


                    • buldawg
                      I have been using it for about 3 yrs now.

                      I have the Chairgun Pro program. They may have newer versions out now.

                      You may have a newer version than I have.

                  • Gunfun
                    Yea the one I just saved to my favorites is chairgun pro 4 so if you have been using it for a few years now you probably need to get the new 4 version.

                    My whisper sold it was for 110 plus 25 shipping so I will only make maybe ten or 12 bucks but that is 110 plus the little profit closer to a hawke scope. so now I may sell one of the CV life 3.5x10x40mm illuminated range finding reticle scope to get the extra for a new hawke and get some more pellets to boot.

                    Maybe it will be in time to still get in on the rain day deal at PA or at least the 10 % off till November 30th.


                    • buldawg
                      Now your talking. That sounds good. And it took me a while to get the 4 Hawke scopes I got now. And its nice to have the same scopes.

                      One thing I have noticed also about them is all 4 scopes are pretty consistent with each other on the side wheel focus. They all focus with the same reading on the wheel at the same distance. That is a good thing.

                  • Gunfun
                    I am glad it finally sold, it did not bring as much as I had hoped for but at least I made a little on it and did not have to pay for shipping it back. The funny thing is that now sportsman guide has the same gun on sale for 89.99, I almost am thinking of buying 2 or 3 and reselling them on GB because at that price if they get 110 on GB that would be a pretty good profit and they are also having a double member discount so it would be like another 10 or 11 bucks off that price.

                    I am saving for another Hawke scope for sure.


                  • Gunfun
                    I have thought about buying more to resell but I am like you and don’t like playing the waiting game either or tying my money up for an indefinite amount of time.

                    Heck I have not even got an email from the buyer yet telling me how they are going to pay for it. I sent them an email with the address to send money order or check to with price or the price if they are going to use paypal to pay for it and paypal address to use and still nothing from them.

                    I hope I don’t have to go to the dispute center because it is a binding contract when you bid and win that you have to pay. It is too much trouble for the little bit I may be able to make ( key word MAY ) so I am just going to get my money for this one and save for a scope.


            • Yeah, thanks for the numbers, mine should be right in that ballpark being same generation nps, but who knows? My breech job might have mine doing either which way….. anyone have an extra unused chrony? On the scopes, I would bet any firearm scope, minus cheapo rimfire jobs, should be good on these nps as fat as springers go, some people say the nitro guns recoil harder then spring but I’ve seen it both ways and have to say on average the nitro is softer, ruger airhawks are gentle springs, and three nps I’ve had were just like the ruger where all other strangers I’ve had were outrageous, especially the talon magnum 22, 30 pound output, yeah, that’ll recoil!

              • RDNA
                All 3 of my springers in my opinion do not recoil a great deal and they are night and day difference between them and the gamo whisper I bought that I am selling. It recoiled very violently and had a great deal of spring buzz and twang. It just felt way to cheap for my liking so I will not keep it especially since I have my three Crosman/Benjamin guns now. I hope you can find a chrony to see if your chambering helped or hurt the performance.


              • RDNA
                I just replied to you and I think it went to spam. I am not so sure about any scopes other than the cheap ones and rimfire scopes being able to hold up to the recoils of a springer, so if the scope does not specifically say it is rated for spring air guns I will not take the chance as I cannot afford to ruin a scope because it would not hold up. If it states it is and it breaks you can send it back and get a new one but if it does not state that it is and then it breaks you would be out of luck and recently I have not a lot of luck when it come to my air guns are concerned.

                So better safe than sorry.


  9. B.B., that is funny about the origins of the Hakim. But it is consistent with the Germanic love of complicated machinery that is sometimes taken to a fault. Maybe they used their second team for the Hakim.


  10. My first experience with a pellet rifle was shooting my brother’s Sheridan Silver Streak. Today’s report has reminded me how much I enjoyed shooting this multi-pump rifle when I was a boy. I still have the rifle. There’s a few hours of daylight left, and I have plenty of grass to cut, but I think I’ll launch some 5mm pellets downrange instead.


  11. Hi BB, I always enjoy your blog. I also like the recent changes that shows shortened versions of the recent blogs yet allows viewing completely when desired. Today you and the other responders took me back to the childhood blue streak. That multi pump was such great fun. There were times that it was grossly over pumped, but it was tough enough to take it. It probably helped that i was young enough to not have the strength of an adult. 45 years later my brother has that gun and says it still shoots good. A couple of months ago I posted about my .177 Syn Rod. It is easily the best air gun I have ever shot, and I am having a great time with it, but I have not been able to duplicate the accuracy that you and several readers have achieved. I have used most of the pellets that you suggest as being the best. The best I have been able to achieve is 1/2″ to 3/4″ 5 shot groups at 25 yards. It does best at faster velocities around 950 to 1000FPS. It likes Exact 8.44 gn Diabolo pellets with Exact Heavy 10.43 Diabolo’s a close second. I’m still looking for those 1/4″ to 3/8″ groups. I have done a JB bore past scrub on it twice. It has a UTG 4-16X44 scope on it. I don’t have a level mounted on the scope, and will get one with my next order but am pretty sure that that won’t cut the groups in half. One interesting thing that happened, I got a bad box of Crossman Premier heavies (10.5gn). I got some of my worst groups with it. After shooting about half the box I noticed that they were very inconsistent. The skirts were inconsistent. when stood on a flat surface many of them did not stand up straight. Lesson learned there, inspect pellets when first opened. I’ll try them again with my next order, too many people seem to favor them for that to be normal. I’ve got the PCP bug now. I think a Crossman silhouette is gona have to come home soon.


        • Mark
          I have a synthetic stock Marauder in .177 and .25 cal.

          The .177 seems to like the JSB 10.34’s the best and the .25 likes the 31 grn. Barracudas the best.

          They both shoot about .650″ on a good day up to .900″ on a not as good day out at 50 yards bench resting. And both have the 1/2 mildot Hawke scopes. And I have it turned a screw or cleaned the barrel on the guns.

          I will say this and I don’t know if it matters but I have the single shot trays from Crosman in both of my Marauders. Are you using the magazines still?

          • Gunfun1, That’s some pretty good groups. My .177 likes the JSB’s best too. Single shot trays? that is interesting. I don’t have one, not sure if they are still available. If I can lay my hands on one I’ll give it a try. I don’t own another suitable scope for it, at some point I’d like to try another one just for comparison. I don’t really have any reason to doubt this one, so it is hard to justify purchasing one just to try it out. At some point i’ll need another one for a future rifle, that will be my chance. All of my measurements are center to center too.

            • Mark
              I believe Crosman makes the single shot tray for the .177 cal. Marauders still but not the other caliber trays.

              But a while back Edith posted a link to the Pyramyd AIR site about another company that was making the single shot tray for all 3 calibers.

              But I’m pretty sure you can still get the Crosman .177 cal. single shot tray trough Pyramyd AIR. I will post a link when I get home from work in a hour or so.

              • Gunfun
                Air venturi is making them now and you can get them from PA.




                They have all three calibers.


            • Mark
              I forgot I like the 2.5-10x 1/2 mildot scope with side wheel parallax adjustment.

              They are like $149 and some change. Then take the 10% coupon of and they are not to bad of deal. I got 4 of them right now.

              I will post a link of the scope also when I get home.

                • Mark
                  Here is the Crosman single shot tray. And of course it says out of stock till Oct. 8th I believe it said. I would hold out for this tray if you can. I know they are good quality.


                  Here is the one that Edith posted a link to a while back. I have not tried one of them so I don’t know how well they work.


                  And here is the scope from Hawke that I was talking about and use.


            • Mark
              Here is the link for the Hawke scope Gunfun and I like so much.


              They are very easy to sight with and the side focus is very easy to use with out having to unshoulder the gun/


                • Gunfun
                  I just went back and checked it and see where they are rated for springers, I just wish they were a little cheaper like 100 bucks and then I would be more inclined to buy more of them. I will get a few more eventually.


                  • buldawg
                    Feature to feature I still think even at a 150 bucks they are a bargain compared to other scopes. Especially with the 1/2 mildot reticle. That’s a hard reticle to find let alone on a lower priced scope. The features that are on this particular Hawke scope we have equals scopes that cost up to 400 or more dollars.

                    So that’s why I try to save the money up to get the Hawke scope. I sure cant afford to by multiple 400 dollar scopes you know what I mean.

                    • Gunfun
                      I agree that the price is still very good at 150 bucks for the quality scope you get and I just have to get my impulse buying under control so I can save for the hawke scopes.
                      That’s is what I am going to do from now on as I have enough scope to go on my guns now so I can save and buy the hawkes as I have the money and resell the ones I have now as I get the hawkes.

                      Sound like a plan and they are much better with the half mil dot and I just have to start using the Chairgun program also.


                  • I’ve often read that the optics mounted on a rifle should probably cost as much as the rifle itself… <G>

                    Which for common spring-air guns, probably means $200-300 for a scope. PCPs are probably worth a $400-600 scope.

                    And yes, I violated that — even my Browning A-Bolt II Varmint model is wearing what is likely the cheapest Leupold model.

                    • Baron Wulfraed
                      I have heard that also and in most cases it is probably true, but in my case if I stuck to that rule I would only have one or two guns if I was lucky. I wish I could spend as much on optics as the guns but it is just not going to happen.

                      Bedsides my eyesight is not good enough to tell the difference between a 500 dollar scope and a 100 dollar scope when it come to looking thru it, the only real difference that I can definitely see is whether it is an AO or not. because of it is not an AO scope then it is blurry at any distance other than its set parallax other than that I cannot see much difference to warrant the p[rice, but then again I have never bought a 500+ dollar scope either and never will.


                    • {Wow… the new software really does limit the indentation range for replies, doesn’t it}

                      If I were a hunter or competitor I’d probably try to follow that rule, myself.

                      Most of my scopes probably fall into the 30-50% of gun cost.

                      Don’t know how to judge the scope on my HK-91… It would be a 40-50% scope based on my original cost — but blue book has made the HK-91 my most valuable gun, and the scope is only about 15% of that valuation. The scope is an old Leatherwood Sporter — before mil-dots became the rage. It has a number of grids with “inch” equivalents — you adjust the zoom so that a target of “x Inches” measures such on the grid (the grids don’t change size when zooming). Attached to zoom dial is a spiral cam — the cam raises the rear of the scope to adjust for distance to target (this means, for example, that a 72″ target [tall human] takes the same amount of space at all distances — when close you are at 3X, when far you are at 9X [or was it a 2-7x scope]. The spiral cam has to be adjusted to match the trajectory of the ammo being used. None of this: estimate range using mil-dot spacing at 10X, look-up hold-over using trajectory table for ammo… But that is at the cost of of not being able to use, say, 9X at 100 yards… the cam for 100 yards would be the 3X [2X?] magnification.

                    • Wufraed
                      I remember you talking about that scope.

                      I would love to have one. I think that would be a nice scope on my HW50s.

    • Mark I have a SynRod .25cal and haven’t touched the barrel yet. I shoot it about twice a week probably 48 to 72 shots a day and it really took awhile for the groups to really tighten up to hole on possible at 50 yards. I shoot mostly jsb exact king 25 grains and Kodiak/barracudas 31 grains. It was never really inaccurate at all but took some time shooting the same pellet to get pinpoint accuracy. I also have to shoot from a rifle rest to achieve hole in hole otherwise the groups open up but it’s still accurate however I shoot as long as I’m patient. I know yours is .177 but maybe just running one accurate pellet through it will help but your groups sound good to me depending how your shooting!?

      • Ricka, thanks, I do use a solid shooting bench with rests front and back. I have been experimenting with about a dozen pellets looking for that extra sweet one. Probably have about 2500 shots fired but never more than 20 of any single pellet consecutively from the bench. I’ll give one of these favorite pellets a chance to shine and shoot a bunch of them and see what happens.


    • Mark
      Here is the link for the Air venturi 177 tray that is cheaper than the crosman that I sent you the link to.



        • Ricka
          Not a problem, every now and then my mind works like its is supposed to and I remembered Edith telling us about PA bringing them back out for sale. I don’t have a Mrod or Prod, but GF1 made me and himself a tray for our Hatsan’s AT 44s that fits like a glove and works just like the Mrods and Prods.

          I have not had a chance to get any use out of mine because my hipacs have been temperamental and I am trying to get them fixed before I go sight all my PCP guns in at once.


      • Thanks Ricka, Buldawg and Gunfun1. I’ll try the single shot tray. So is it possible that the rotary magazine damages the pellets, or is there another reason the single shot tray might lead to better accuracy? I’ll look for that Hawke scope when I next order a scope. I have another issue I forgot to mention yesterday. The power metering screw has becomes somewhat sloppy in the adjustment range that i like best, 2 1/3 turns out. It is loose enough that I can’t tell when the jam screw is on top of it and I wind up tightening both the jam and metering screw together. I am reluctant to use locktite on it, might go through into the air channel. Thinking i might burr up the threads a bit once i’m sure where I want it to stay.

        • Mark
          You are welcome and that’s is what this blog is all about is every one helping every one else as best we can and very willing to do so. Its like they say two heads are better than one only in this case it numerous heads are better than one.

          Your question about the power screw on your Mrod would need to be asked of GF1 as I don’t own a Mrod so I can’t tell you the best way to keep it from moving, but you can get some pink Loctite that is for small fasteners like 4-40 and 6-32 etc that will keep it from moving but not make it difficult to get loose. I don’t know about buggering the threads as I am not sure of the grade of metal it threads in and you could possibly damage the threads to where it would ruin the main part of the gun. Another good screw holding compound for small screws that you just want to keep from moving but want to be able to remove or adjust is fingernail polish because it dries to a hard state that will keep the screw from moving but still be able to be removed or adjusted and just reapply the polish and it is probably cheaper than Loctite plus you can customize it any number of fashion colors LOL.


        • Mark
          First off I think you will be happy with a Hawke scope if you get one. I hope you try at least one. And I think I said this in the past to somebody. If for some reason you don’t like the Hawke scope I would be willing to buy it. Yep that’s how much I like them.

          And i don’t want to say that the magazines are a problem but I do get better accuracy with a single shot tray in my guns. Even the Hatsan QE that I made the single shot trays for buldawg and me definitely helped out my Hatsan.

          And already been there and done that set screw thing on my old 1st generation wood stock Marauders that I had. Both of them were .177 and .22 cal. also like the synthetic stock 2nd generation guns I have.

          Like I said no screws touched on the synthetic stock Marauders I have now. But I got the perfect fix for that lock down screw that I did to the wood stock Marauders.

          First adjust the power metering screw where you want it.
          Then take the locking set screw and grind a point on the surface that would contact the metering set screw.
          Make the point long enough so it will go down in the metering set screw where you place the allen wrench. You want the point to only touch the bottom of the allen wrench spot. Make the angle so it wont contact the side wall were the allen wrench goes.

          What will happen when you put that locking set screw in and tighten up.The point will push the the metering screw and not try to turn it. You will be a surprised how little effort you will need to lock them up tight.

          I hope I explained that ok. Let me know.

  12. At this point in the test, I have to say the APX reminds me a lot of the Daisy 880.

    Given some of the comments from the first part of the review on this gun (which can be summarized as the NXG APX looking like a tacticool version of the Daisy 880) I’m surprised there wasn’t more reaction to this. Then again maybe we got it out of our systems last time.

  13. To me any gun that comes not ready to fire and needs any kind of service like oiling pump heads, tightening co2 parts because they leak, or I find parts in the box or just plain missing is telling me that quality control is so poor that the gun is not worth my time to risk my money on.

  14. I picked one of these up a couple of weeks ago and tested it side by side with my Daisy 880 that I bought about three years ago. Using my chrony, I carefully filled in a chart that I keep on all my airguns. Noting the velocitys next to each weight and brand of ammo. I must say that in the power department, this Umarex is a disappointment. I would expect that this next generation should have come with more muscle. In my tests the Umarex NXG APX is inferior in all tests when compared to my 880 by at least 50 FPS on the lighter ammo and over 100 FPS on the heavier.
    For example. Using JSB Exacts Diablos at 7.87, the Umarex muzzle velocity was 627FPS The Daisy clocked in at 694 FPS. This was at 10 pumps. Using 8.5 Metalmags the Umarex hit 601 FPS while the Daisy recorded 672 FPS. Skenco Newboys 15.8 provided 423 FPS for the Umarex and the Daisy pushed the same ammo to 532 FPS. Ive never oiled my Daisy although Im sure that I should have.
    I do however like all the other features of the Umarex as I see all of them as a step forward. But, in the power department…..I find it lacking

  15. At the risk (okay, the certainty) of revealing how out of step I am with the other commenters, I have found the new Umarex to be a great addition to my small airgun arsenal.

    I look for the most accurate and inexpensive single or multi pump guns to shoot from a full benchrest set up at six meters (my basement allows only a short range). The best I had were an 880, a Daisy 953, and a 1377 fitted with a carbine stock.

    The APX is considerably more accurate than the 880 and significantly better than the other two.

    I’m getting center-to-center groups of under .20 inches with RWS Hobbys, JSB Exacts, and Meisterkuglns. Three pumps. The heavy Crosman Ultra Maxs with five pumps are not quite as tight but still plenty good.

    The trigger on the APX is way too heavy, but it has zero creep and seems to be getting a little better with use.

    My gun is content with a little Pellgun oil on the sponge at the pump head, and pumping effort lessened with some oil on the hinge. Oiling has not been a burden, although the gun was very dry out of the box.

    I don’t have a chrony and I don’t care about velocity: only accuracy.

    The APX delivers really great accuracy for less than $75 shipped.

    What a deal.

    • Leon, in the accuracy department I had good results as well. However I didnt use a benchrest, just rested it on the fence and fired at a target 45′ (13.7 meters) away. Im not the best marksman but I did get a best of .80 center to center using H&N Wadcutters using a add on scope. The Daisy 880 wouldnt hold a scope well. Its cast in rail is a very poor feature with the Daisy. But, using the iron sights on the Daisy, I can hit a 2″ pellet can again and again at 45′, with the can turned so that its 1/2″ thickness is facing you.

  16. I should have said I used a 4X Leapers scope mounted on a UTG adapter that fits on the APX 11mm rail and provides a Weaver mount for a scope. Very solid and not too high. I got the rig sighted in with only about five shots.

    I have big fingers so loading is a little tricky, but I discovered an Air Ventura pellet pen solves the problem.

    I really like this gun.

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