50-dollar PCP!!!

Val,

I don’t think we should publish this report yet. We don’t even know if these guys are going to produce it. I don’t know how they built even one of these things, because I’m getting quarter-inch 10-shot groups at 50 yards! And the thing is regulated. And it has a decent trigger!

You know if I publish this, people are just going to complain that the hand pumps cost too much. I think we should sit on it until we see the first shipment.

Tom, I know you have misgivings, but I am assured they will deliver on time. They tell me all the parts are manufactured, and it’s now just down to finishing and assembly. We tested the same rifle and I don’t see why they can’t produce as many of them as they want. Just their new barrel, with its screw-machine production method, will be a winner! And they tell me they can produce the barrel for a retail target price of ten dollars. Imagine all the other PCPs that can be upgraded as a result! Let’s run with it.

Okay, you have convinced me. But let’s not tell them today. They’ll never believe it.

64 thoughts on “50-dollar PCP!!!



    • Jim H,
      The $25 one already exists. The Amazonian tribes will trade you one for a machete and a cooking pot.
      Has the ability to take a monkey at 100 ft with poison tipped darts ( a year’s supply comes with the gun) which are reusable..
      Operates on 1000 psi, If you are a big man like B.B.- more swept volume. 800 psi for smaller people.
      Completely user & backyard friendly.
      You will have to paint the tip of the barrel red so that the police knows that it is airsoft.
      My cousin in Brazil has ordered one for me but my problem is that there are no monkeys where I live.
      I wonder if Canada goose tastes like monkey???

      Pete




  1. Haha, I was wondering how this would work out today.

    And come on guys. I have seen it already. Really a $50 pcp (Pre-Charged Pneumatics).

    A Crosman 1377. It’s pre-charged everytime you pump it up before the shot. And its definitely pneumatic.

    😉




      • GF 1

        Read the reviews and have decided to hold off on my purchase. Does anyone know if this tanker is shipped full or must you fill it with a hand pump or Air Venturi compressor?

        On a more serious note, I did the detent mod on one of my Wildfires (I saw the name shortened to WiFi somewhere already) and it didn’t give the dramatic improvements that it does on a 1077. With Crosman Ultra Magnums it did increase theaverage velocity over a 4 magazine string by 20fps but no increase in shot count. With RWS Basics there was about a 5 fps increase on the first 2 magazines but the average over 4 mags stayed the same and ,again, there was no increase in shot count. So I don’t know if the mod is worth doing on the WiFi. Just thought I’d update you since I’ve been telling you how good it worked on a1077.


        • Halfstep
          I hear you need at least 4 Air Venturi pumps to refill it and it takes approximately 2 months to refill. And that’s continuous pumping. It takes longer if you give the pumps a rest.

          And thanks for the info on that mod for the Wildfire. And did you get your second Wildfire yet?


    • Hey,… they are muscling in on B.B.’s April fool’s gig! It was pretty good though. I too was wondering if there would be any April fool’s article. Hat’s Off to the B.B. man for hooking us up on his day off. Yea right,… like the man even knows what a day off is. 😉


  2. Surely, what we want for this price is my newly developed springpumpcp which has an underlying PcP tube and barrel below a big bore Springer, with a built in pump? Anyone interested ill send the plans.



  3. I’ll just bet you’ll have to buy each of the barrels seperately and just because they can make ’em for $10 don’t mean they won’t charge us $10.50 or more for one. I might buy one if I knew for sure in came with sling swivels.


    • Halfstep
      Well you know there’s always a catch somewhere. I bet they sell replacement barrels for $75 a piece. How do you think they will make up their loss for selling the gun for only $50. 🙂




    • BD76,

      Should work fine! I used to overhaul Cooper-Bessemer BIG diesel engines. Bigger than that, but nothing like that. More like a V-8,.. or 10,… that ate an entire factory of steroids.

      Good to hear from ya. Chris


      • Chris USA
        Ye I thought it would work good also but it takes 5 men to run so I need some support help from my fellow air gunners. That and I started a go fund me page to help pay for the natural gas it takes to run it on. Also need a LDC made up to keep the neighbors happy.

        Going shooting now since its to nice of a day here. Spring is finally back Yippee

        BD


        • BD
          Good to see you post.

          I can’t say long time no see. Heck we talk just about everyday.

          Just got finished cutting grass. So I’m back at shooting too. A beautiful day today hear. About 67°, sunny blue sky’s with a few big fluffy clouds here and there. And nice and calm out.

          And absalutly no fool’n. 🙂


    • Buldawg,

      Nice to hear you again.

      If I buy the truck (red naturally!) can you hotrod him a bit? I want at least to be able to corner on two wheels at 90 plus !

      Over here we shoot pink elephants and marinate them in bourbon. Take some days but then you have something.

      Regards,

      August


      • August
        Yea still here lurking most of the time. I can hot rod that truck but I do not like the color red so you will need to buy a different color for me to work on it. I prefer black or blue myself. It will have to have a anti rotational jack plate for the trailer so there’s no chance the tank can hit the pavement and grind a hole in it or you would loose control when it becomes airborne from the added thrust of the HPA escaping.

        I prefer my pink elephant’s marinated in Crown instead of Bourbon with some Mt Dew for added fermenting. It does take several day to get it right and then some more to recover as well. Not recommend for the old and weather worn .

        BD


  4. B.B. or anyone,

    I ordered a Umarex Legends Smoke Wagon Full Metal Airsoft CO2 SAA Revolver. It should be here in about a week.

    I don’t like the looks of the mandated orange tip. I read somewhere that I can legally remove it if I only shoot it at home and don’t take the gun out in public. Does anyone know if this is true?

    Thanks,

    JoeB


  5. BB, one of my rifles after a spring replacement has a very annoying buzz to it, even after 500 shots. Is there a way to fix it? The new spring is a little loose fit in the piston compared to the factory spring.
    And the heavy pellets really give poor accuracy and a harsh shot cycle.!



    • Riki
      I would probably put the old spring back in. Sounds like your gun isn’t liking the spring you put in. The buzz is one thing. But the shot cycle with heavy pellets don’t sound right.

      Lighter or heavier spring in it now? More preload pressure or less when you assembled it compared to the original spring? Same pellets you used with original spring? And is it still the same piston seal?


    • Riki,

      If you cannot source Tune in a Tube directly you may have to take a chance with a substitute. I was able to find a locally sourced replacement for Tune in a Tube but it took me 6 months of looking for it. It does work. Failing that you may have to shim the space around the spring to decrease the amount of space that allows it to buzz. This is commonly referred to as a beer can tune although some have also used plastic bottles as sleeves for the spring with success.

      Siraniko

      PS Good luck in your medical studies.


  6. BB, will any non-petroleum based viscous grease work? No Tune in a Tube can be found here. And one thing more, have you seen a safety mechanism in a direct sear locking trigger, especially whose weight of pull can be adjusted by turning a screw in through the end cap? There is no safety in two of my favourite guns.!!
    Gunfun1, the pellets weighed 15+ grains, and I assume the harshness of the shot cycle was probably caused due to piston bounce. The pellets were shot with a second gun which has a tighter fitting spring. The preload was about two inches to allow for the direct sear locking trigger block. The piston seal was in decent condition as well.
    Siraniko, thanks. I have heard about the can tune, but do the shimmed parts get thrown out from the piston because of the sudden and violent movement that the piston undergoes? This apprehension prevents me from trying this.


    • Riki
      Ok but you never said yet if this new spring is a heavier or lighter spring or if the old spring made the shot cycle with those pellets.

      What I’m getting at is you might not have the right spring for your gun.


      • Gunfun1, the new spring is indeed heavier when compared to the stock spring and even the after market spring that I use in my other gun. Both the lighter springs cycle the JSBs perfectly well for me. You think the mass of the main spring is the cause? Maybe because of inertia it is unable to stop vibrating?


        • Riki
          That is what I’m thinking. It’s just got to much power for the distance it’s moving. So when it hits. That extra energy has to go somewhere and the piston bounces.

          Plus you say that new spring don’t fit as well on the diameter. That and the extra energy is definitely two things that will make a bad shot cycle.

          Lubing would help the vibration from the diameter fit being loose. But it would only help so much even. This biggest difference would be is if you could reduce spring preload with your new spring. But that will only help so much also.

          The right spring is what will make the gun the best.


    • Riki
      The beer can or plastic soda bottle sleeves for the spring go in the piston to take up the free clearance between the ID of the piston and the OD of the spring. The end that goes into the front of the piston is usually bent inward to form a surface like a washer for the spring to capture between it and the front of the piston so it cannot slide out of the piston when shot. It is also coated with a light film of grease so it tends to stick to the ID of the piston and allows the spring to slide smoothly inside it.

      If the spring is longer and heavier than the OE spring it will add to the recoil as GF1 has stated making the gun more hold susceptible and harsher in the shot cycle. due to piston bounce.

      BD


      • BD
        And how many times have we encountered just this.

        It’s rediculous what some manufacturers do to their guns.

        Just like camshafts in cars or motorcycles. Bigger is NOT always better. Matter of fact a little to the smaller side on camshafts makes the engine run better.

        Same that I’m sure you seen too with spring guns.


        • GF1
          Ain’t that the truth and bigger is not always better. Everything has to be matched to work to its very best and if one thing is not compatible with the rest it spoils the hole package. So a bigger stronger spring is not always going to make the gun shoot faster and definitely not smoother if its not matched to the rest of the guns components. There is only so much swept volume that any spring gun is built with so if you put in a stronger spring with the idea that since it will move the piston faster in the cylinder giving more FPS or Power its not always the case. There is only so much air available to be displaced by the piston to push the pellet out of the barrel. So once the piston reaches the point that more speed does not move the air any faster the springs energy is wasted in recoil of the powerplant. So bigger and stronger is not always better versus matching the right spring to the gun swept volume so you a only use the available energy of the spring completely to push the pekket and therefore there is no energy left to produce excess recoil amnd harsh shot cycle.


          • BD
            Sometimes physics can be tricked with adding this or that.

            But in reality if it is matched like you say. The package WILL work it’s best.

            And you don’t have to keep adding things to keep it performing naturally.


            • GF1
              Yea things can trick physics sometimes but it generally takes many years to learn and develop those tricks from trial and error with success’s and failures along the way.

              That’s where all the fun and heartaches come from but makes it all worth the trouble when you succeed in your goal.

              I know I have learned a lot thru the school of hard knocks over the years in my quests for the best toys I could make or build. It took years to realize when its time to leave well enough alone and be happy with the results.

              Especially with air guns.

              BD


              • BD
                I’m talking about simple things like adding lube.

                Yes some is good. But excess is rediculous.

                If it comes to that. That means things ain’t fitting right. Or at least better than they are.

                The basics should be right before trying to change the other things. Most of the time I seen it complicate other things in the system how it operates.

                The variables keep staking.


                • GF1
                  Well yea that’s definitely a area that to much can be as bad as to little or the wrong kind is possibly disastrous and dangerous.

                  The lube is only there to prevent contact between two surfaces and if that clearance is not right then no lube will fix or correct the poor fit.

                  Its all about attention to details first then experimenting second.

                  BD


  7. Here are the results from my accuracy testing of one of my Wildfires.
    RWS : BASIC HOBBY MK PISTOL MK RIFLE SUPERDOME CROSMAN : ULT MAG DESTROYER
    SHOTS 1-10 31-40 41-5 41-50 1-10 11-20 31-40
    AVG VEL 726 593 526 518 697 583 581
    GROUP 1.4″ 9 in .565″ .885″ 9 in .375″ .820″ .935″ .690″
    10 in 1.038″ 10 in .835″

    COMPETITION WC HUNTING PT PREMIER LT GAMO:PRO MAG MATCH WC DAISY PREC MAX HP
    SHOTS 11-20 21-30 1-10 21-30 31-40 21-30
    AVG VEL 632 597 714 632 569 618
    GROUP .900″ 8 in .370″ 1.14″ 8 in .385″ 9 in .630″ 9 in .835″
    10 in .880″ 9 in .580″ 10 in .935″ 10 in 1.65″
    10 in 1.415″
    RUGER HP EXCITE PLINKING
    SHOTS 11-20 41-50
    AVG VEL 658 507
    GROUP 1.330″ .435″Hx.170″W

    I listed the shot count and average velocity for each string since each pellet was fired at a different pressure. Don’t know if it makes a difference in each pellets accuracy but I just thought I’d list it in case. All strings are 10 shots at 12 yds (length of my basement) and the gun is scoped and in a vise.( I watched through the scope to make sure the gun didn’t move since the vise/clamp is actually on legs). I refilled the gun after every 50 shots to 2000 psi by my pumps gauge. Since I’m not posting photos like BB does I have tried to describe the groups in a little detail when I thought is was important.

    I shot cheap and readily available pellets as I know it’s unlikely I’ll ever shoot many expensive pellets from this gun because it’s not that kind of gun and it is soooo easy to shoot up a box of 500 at one sitting. I’m glad to report that at 12 yards at least, you can hit small targets with several of these pellets. Understand that this little report of mine is really just showing the accuracy potential of the power plant and barrel. The long rough trigger pull may make it difficult to match these results, unvised.( I don’t shoot well enough to test a gun just holding it and shooting and I didn’t feel clamping the stock, in this case, was gonna’ affect the harmonics or any of the other magical properties that real shooters worry about.)

    Now the bad news. I had more pellets that I wanted to try but while I was loading the 16th magazine for my test, the gun just emptied itself in a quick woosh just like my other one did and am I ever bummed out ! I decided to take the gun apart ( voiding my warranty) to see if there was an easy fix ( o ring blown or dirt in valve) but can’t see reason for valve to leak. Don’t think replacement parts are available yet so may try a 1077 valve or just shelve it until Wildfire parts are available.

    Anyway, I thought I might as well post what I had and this is that attempt. I assembled the data in Notepad and I don’t type at all (can barely hunt and peck ,but I did learn cursive in school) so Lord only knows what this is gonna look like when I hit “Post Comment” If it’s screwed up I’ll try again . Well here goes……



    • Halfstep
      All in all interesting results.

      And what a bummer on that gun emptying itself. Got this question. Did it leak in the magazine at the barrel? Like how you told me to check to see if mine did to see if I wanted to do that mod you mentioned?

      What I have seen if a gun leaks out the barrel. It’s usually cause the seat seal on the valve stem top hat is leaking where it seats to the inside of the valve body. It will then dump air out of the transfer port hole going to the barrel.

      Have you got that far into it yet?


      • GF1

        I’m surprised you could made heads or tales of my data, it is so misaligned. It’s leaking from the transfer port through the valve. Took the valve apart to see if dirt was between valve and seat ( real dog to get back together ,by the way. All 5 times!) or if the seat was deformed. Didn’t see anything obvious. Definitely coming pass valve ,though. There are two orings that I may replace even though they look okay. One is buna and the other looks like urethane. I think I have buna versions of each. should at least tell me if it’s orings or the seat ( called a puck I think on the 1077) If you or anyone else knows for sure if the valve is the same as the 1077, I’d like to know.

        I was actually asking you to check your gun for a leak around the spring loaded plunger that presses against the magazine. At one time this was equipped, on the 1077, with an oring to minimize the leak.(One of my 1077s was made in 1995 and it had an oring,although it was too small to seal well and I replaced it with the one recommended it that video I told you about)

        Well my second attempt at posting my data failed so I’m gonna try again. Later !


        • Halfstep
          There’s something I’m thinking but don’t know for sure.

          When I have shot my 1077’s or the Wildfire. And this is when I was target shooting and trying to shoot the double action trigger like it was a 2 stage trigger on my other air guns.

          Stopping the pull at a given point and letting off a hair then continuing the pull instead of just pulling all the way through. What happens when I done that is it misses that pellet. Basically I guess I let off enough to get the clip ready to advance again. So when I take the clip out it looks like a miss fire but in reality the clip advanced and fired the next pellet in line.

          What I’m getting at is maybe on your last pellet fired in a clip the trigger could be positioned in a spot that the striker is resting up against the valve stem then finally allowing the valve to loose enough seat and release the air.

          I know that guns that have the adjustable spring tension and striker stroke adjustment like the Marauder have. If you get the stroke adjustment out and resting on the valve stem and have the spring pressure adjusted heavy that will happen. And even more so if you look at the Marauder manual that would be a set up for a lower fill pressure similar to the Wildfire​, Discovery and Maximus.

          The lower fill would agrivate the set up I just described and cause leak down out the transfer port and barrel. Maybe that’s what is happening to yours?


          • GF1

            I wish it was that but, I’ve had the valve in my hand and can blow air through it with a shop compressor. It gets bigger if I push on the valve stem, of course, but it also leaks when the valve should be seated.


            • Halfstep
              But how much pressure are you putting on it with your hand. 1000 psi is alot different. Maybe the spring inside the valve is the problem also.

              I wonder if the spring can move in the valve or if it can move when on the top hat. If that spring is cocked to one side just a little bit it will help to cause the top hat to not seat right.

              Also check and see if there are wear marks on the valve stem or if it’s sloppy in the hole of the valve. That will cause a problem too.


              • Of all the things you asked about, the one thing I noticed is that the thin part of the Valve Stem does seem free to move side to side in what is called the Puck Assembly in the 1077 parts drawing. Can’t imagine that it wore that much in less than 300 shots though.


                • Halfstep
                  See if it moves more side to side in one direction more than the other.

                  Like say the 12:00 to 6:00 position more than the 3:00 to 9:00 position. And that’s just a example. It could be the 1:00 to 7:00 position that’s out of shape.

                  That means that the valve stem is not getting hit on center or the internal spring is pulling it off center.

                  I would say it’s more the striker hitting it off center. I will have to look at the 1077 drawing so I can remember better.


                • Halfstep
                  Looks like 7C on the 1077 print is probably the problem to me.

                  Is the o-ring flat on any of the sides or uneven marks on it. Or maybe the o-ring got rolled and is twisted.

                  Maybe the way the o-ring is suppose to to seat ain’t holding up to the pressure.

                  But what gets me is why you are having this paticular problem on different guns.


  8. RWS: BASIC HOBBY MK PISTOL MK RIFLE SUPERDOME
    SHOT 1-10 31-40 41-50 41-50 1-10
    AVG VEL 726 593 426 518 697
    GROUP 1.4″ 9 in .565″ .885″ 9 in .375″ .820
    10 in 1.038″ 10 in 1.415″

    CROSMAN: ULT MAG DESTROYER COMP WC HUNTING PT PREM LITE
    SHOTS 11-20 31-40 11-20 21-30 1-10
    AVG VEL 583 581 632 597 714
    GROUP .935″ .690″ .900″ 8 in .370 1.14″
    10 in .880″

    GAMO: PRO MAG MATCH WC DAISY PREC MAX WC RUGER HP EXCITE PLINKING
    SHOT 31-40 31-40 21-30 11-20 41-50
    AVG VEL 632 569 618 658 507
    GROUP 8 in .385″ 9 in .630″ 9 in .835″ 1.330″ .435″H X .170″W
    9 in .580″ 10 in .935″ 10 in 1.65″
    10 in 1.415″

    Let’s try that again!


    • Halfstep
      I was just out shooting mine at some empty​ 12 oz. beverage cans at 35 yards or so. Shooting standing and free hand. No support other than me holding the gun. Didn’t miss a shot out of 8 clips so far.

      Oh and here’s what I have on mine. Had it for many a many moons and on several different guns throughout time.
      https://goo.gl/images/vniugJ


  9. RWS- BASIC SHOTS 1-10, 726 FPS, 1.4″- HOBBY SHOTS 31-40, 593 FPS, 9 in 565″, 10 in 1.038″-

    MK PISTOL SHOTS 4-50, 426 FPS, .885″ – MK RIFLE SHOTS 41-50, 518 FPS, 9 in .375″, 10 in 1.415″

    SUPERDOME SHOTS 1-10, 697 FPS, .820″

    CROSMAN- ULT MAG SHOTS 11-20, 583 FPS, .935″ – DESTROYER SHOTS 31-40, 581 FPS, .690″

    COMP WC SHOTS 11-20, 632 FPS, .900″ – HUNTING PT SHOTS 21-30, 597 FPS, 8 in .370, 10 in .880″-

    PREMIER LITE SHOTS 1-10, 714 FPS, 1.14″

    GAMO- PRO MAG SHOTS 31-40, 632 FPS, 8 in .385″ , 9 in .580″ , 10 in 1.415″ –

    MATCH WC SHOTS 31-40, 569 FPS, 9 in .630″ , 10 in .935″ –

    DAISY PREC MAX WC SHOTS 21-30, 618 FPS, 9 in .835″ , 10 in 1.65″ –

    RUGER HP SHOTS 11-20, 658 FPS, 1.33″

    EXCITE PLINKING SHOTS 41-50, 507 FPS, .435″ H X .170″ W <——<<

    If this doesn't work I'm out of ideas, sorry.


  10. I think I accidently got a look at the $50. PCP. You’ve heard of the shooting cane, well this is more like a shooting hand pump. The pump shaft is the barrel and the handle simply folds under it and becomes the forearm.
    The skeletonized folding stock acts as a foot stabilizer during pumping and when folded up is about the size of a compact umbrella. A great single shot backpack rifle !


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