Umarex Strike Point multi-pump pistol: Part 1
by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
Today we look at the Umarex Strike Point multi-pump pistol. I overlooked this pistol at the SHOT Show this year, or if I did see it I got distracted soon after. Here is a brand new multi-pump that wants to play in the budget class. They are going up against the Crosman 1377 that is firmly entrenched. The Strike Point is several dollars less, so this will be an interesting launch.
I don’t think this will be resolved by the price. At this level both companies are almost giving them away. This will revolve around features and performance. I don’t want to compare the Strike Point to the 1377, but some things will obviously have to be said.
The Strike Point is a multi-pump air pistol, which makes it a pneumatic. It comes in both .177 and .22. I’m testing a .177. The manual gives the max velocity of 600 f.p.s. in this caliber. That puts it right there with the 1377. Naturally I’ll test that for you.
The manual says to use 2 pumps when shooting inside the house. For 10 meters it recommends 4 to 6 pumps. And 10 pumps is the recommended maximum. For those who are new to multi-pumps, when you over-pump the gun the air pressure inside doesn’t allow the valve to open all the way and the power decreases. At some point the gun fails to fire altogether and must be manually depressurized before it works again. This involves partial disassembly and is not safe for those unfamiliar with multi-pumps.
The pistol is large and all black synthetic on the outside. Only the trigger, bolt and rear sight are metal. The pistol weighs 2 lbs. 7-1/8 oz. on my postal scale. Also it is wide and high. You know you are holding something when you have the Strike Point in your hand.
The trigger is not adjustable, and the Pyramyd description says the pull is 5 lbs. 8 oz. Of course I will test that in Part 2.
I can tell you that the trigger blade is angled too far forward. I almost can’t fit my average-sized trigger finger through the triggerguard in front of it.
The safety is a crossbolt type that’s pressed in on the left side of the gun (pressed to the right) to make safe and to the left to fire. It is manual so it doesn’t come on until you apply it.
The front sight is a fiberoptic red dot surrounded by a stout plastic hood. Some owners have criticized the hood for obscuring the target, but I don’t see that as a problem. However, the post has a rounded top that makes precision aiming difficult. Also, the front sight is wider than the rear sight notch when the pistol is held at arm’s length. That will make it quite difficult to aim.
Some reviewers have said the gun is not accurate, but I wonder how much of that criticism is due to the difficulty of using the front sight? I will know more after the accuracy test.
The rear sight is a sheet metal blade that adjusts for windage but not for elevation. Owners have criticized it for looking cheap, but Crosman and Benjamin have used the same type of rear sight for the last 70 years and it works. I will be able to say more about it when I shoot the pistol for accuracy.
To pump the pistol it first must be cocked. The manual recommends leaving the bolt open, but they are trying to prevent the loading of the gun and then putting it away without firing. Later, if it were to fire during pumping with the bolt closed and a pellet loaded, the pellet would come out as fast as if the trigger were pulled.
It is possible to pull the trigger and lower the striker by holding onto the bolt. That way you can store the pistol with one or two pumps of air inside to keep the valve closed against airborne dirt.
The Strike Point is larger than the 1377, so if you have big hands it may feel more comfortable. It is also definitely a little muzzle-heavy which helps some people hold it steadier.
I have to find a way of dealing with the sights, if I’m going to see the real accuracy potential of the Strike Point. If I can figure that out and if the gun is accurate, this could become a best buy!