by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Sig Super Target
Sig Air Super Target (photo provided courtesy Sig Sauer).

Part 1
Part 2

This report covers:

  • Breech seal
  • What caused the tear?
  • Another sealing tip
  • On to the trigger
  • Pull weight
  • Trigger blade location
  • How short can the blade be?
  • Adjust stage one
  • Adjust stage two
  • No overtravel
  • Success!
  • The breech
  • Summary

Part 3 is usually when I test accuracy. Don’t get me wrong — I want to know about this pistol’s accuracy as much as anyone. But there is something I need to do first. Today is adjustment day for the trigger on the SigAir Super Target. I promised that last time and there is a lot we can do to this trigger. Before we begin that, though, I have something to clear up.

Breech seal

When I showed the breech in Part 2 reader Vana2 noticed that the breech seal was torn. I hadn’t seen the tear until he pointed it out. It was very small and located at the top of the breech where it’s not easy to see anyway.

Sig Super Target seal
When the picture is enlarged like this the tear looks big, but when it was sitting in the gun I didn’t even see it. That’s a dental pick I used to remove the o-ring.

I doubt the tear had any affect on the velocity test because this seal is under a lot of compression when the breech is closed, but I knew I had to replace it. Ed Schultz from Sig was reading the comments and he emailed me that there is an extra breech seal in the pistol case. Indeed there was! Everybody gets a spare seal with their new gun.

What caused the tear?

I picked the old seal out of its groove with a dental pick and installed the new one in less than a minute. But if I wasn’t testing the gun for you I wouldn’t have changed it. It was sealing just fine. The stability we saw in the velocity test told me that.

Why was the seal torn? Was there a burr? The best tool for finding small burrs is to run your fingers over the areas of concern. I did that and found nothing. In WWII the rivets on the skins of US fighter planes were inspected this way — not officially, but by the workers who discovered their sense of touch was more sensitive than a gauge. My 8th grade English teacher had been a Rosie the Riveter who worked on the production line for fighters, and she told me that story.

So I felt for burrs. All the places the breech seal comes in contact with are as smooth as glass. I think this seal may have just been cut by some other means and was never noticed. I sure didn’t notice it.

Another sealing tip

When an o-ring fails in this way there is something you can do. Take the o-ring out and turn it over, so the side that’s not torn is sealing the gun. Since the tear is so small that will fix it every time, as long as the o-ring is fresh and supple.

On to the trigger

The Super Target trigger has 4 adjustment screws. Screw 1 adjusts the trigger pull weight. Screw 2 positions the trigger blade. Screw 3 adjusts the length of the first stage, which stops at what the manual refers to as the wall. It’s really the beginning of the second stage. Screw 4 adjusts the length of the second stage — an instruction at which BB Pelletier says, “Whaaaaat?” The second stage isn’t supposed to move, in the world I live in. We shall see.

Sig Super Target graphic
The Super Target trigger has 4 adjustment screws. Screw 1 is for pull weight. Screw 2 positions the trigger blade. Screw 3 is for the length of stage one and screw 4 is for the length of stage 2. Graphic from Super Target manual, courtesy of Sig Sauer.

Pull weight

The manual says to use the 1/8″ Allen wrench that’s included with the gun to adjust screw 1, but on my pistol this screw has a slotted screw head and the graphic shows that, as well. A common flat-bladed screwdriver is the ticket. Be careful, though, because there isn’t a hole through the triggerguard and you have to come in from the side to adjust this one. If you slip you could scratch the frame of the pistol.

I very carefully tested the pull weight before adjusting and this time it came to 1 lb. 15.8 oz. I Part 2 I measured it at 2 pounds, even. I tightened the screw (turned clockwise) one full turn and tested the pull again. This time it averaged 2 lbs. 1.4 oz. over five pulls. Another half turn and it measured 2 lbs. 1.5 oz. average over 5 pulls.

I then went back to the start point and adjusted 1-1/2 turns lighter. The average let-off over 5 pulls was 1 lb. 7.9 oz. I stopped there and left the trigger as adjusted because at this point the second stage let-off is very crisp.

Trigger blade location

This screw and the other two that are in the trigger blade are the 1/8-inch Allen screws. This adjustment moves the trigger closer to your hand or farther away, as seen in the pictures below.

Sig Super Target trigger in
This is as short as the trigger blade can be adjusted.

Sig Super Target trigger out
Here the trigger blade is adjusted out pretty far. This is where I like it.

Adjusting the position of the trigger blade changes the length of the first stage pull. It’s like the wall (beginning of stage 2) stays where it is and as the blade moves farther out, it’s all stage 1.

How short can the blade be?

When I adjusted the blade in close, I got to the point where the pistol could no longer be cocked. I then moved the trigger back out until it did cock. That’s how I know where the closest adjustment point is.

Adjust stage one

Okay, I just lengthened the first stage pull by repositioning the trigger blade. Now with this first stage adjustment screw I can make the first stage as long as I like within the limits of the adjustment. So — can I now adjust all the first stage out and get a single-stage trigger pull after repositioning the blade? Let’s see.

To adjust the first stage shorter turn the 1/8″ Allen screw counter-clockwise, which is out. And the answer is yes, the trigger can be adjusted to a single-stage pull by adjusting all the travel out of the first stage. You are starting at the beginning of the second stage when you start to pull. HOWEVER — when you do this the pull of stage two becomes long. It’s not creepy (starting and stopping intermittently as the trigger is squeezed), but it’s definitely moving. So, can that movement be dialed out with the stage 2 adjustment? According to the instructions it is theoretically possible. Let’s see.

Adjust stage two

To make stage two shorter the adjustment screw is turned counter-clockwise. So that’s what I did.

Wow! Instead of bringing stage 2 all the way to the start of the trigger pull, this adjustment put stage 1 back into the trigger. I eventually reached a point where there was all stage 1 and the gun wouldn’t fire.

No overtravel

There is no overtravel adjustment, so don’t look for one. That said, you probably won’t miss it because this trigger seems to stop all on its own.

They tell you that stages 1 and 2 are interdependent (adjusting one affects where the other one is adjusted) and I have just seen that they are! So now I will adjust both stages 1 and 2 to where I like the trigger to be — a long stage 1 and a crisp stage 2 with no movement. Is this possible?


Yes, it is possible. We know that because the pistol came to me that way. But this can be a very long and frustrating endeavor because adjusting each of screws 2, 3 and 4 affects the other. My advice is either don’t do it or go very slow, which the manual tells you.


Why did I devote almost an entire report to adjusting a trigger? I did it because the Super Target trigger is one that can be adjusted so fine. If you give me a bathtub full of champaign don’t get mad when I take a sip!

Accuracy testing comes next. I know I can’t wait to see what this beautiful air pistol can do. So, stay tuned!