Find the squirrel! Using a high-magnification scope, which has a small field of view, it'll take you a while to locate the exact piece of wood the squirrel's on. Of course, squirrels don't sit still, so he'll be moving around while you're looking at tiny segments of the whole area.
With a low-power scope, your field of view is many times larger, giving you a more complete picture of the area. It's much easier to acquire your target when you see a wider picture.
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Things I liked: 35 yard parallax. the small front bell. Its short and light weight. and the eye relief is long enough.
Things I would have changed: Instead of having a bunch of colors for the illuminated reticle, I'd rather have a dimmer control. Its too bright for me. All I see is the reticle and I can't see the target. Illuminated reticles are always too bright for me.
What others should know: that 35 yard parallax should be more popular! Seriously, if you aren't aware of why 35yd parallax is ideal for airguns, you should study up. There's no need for a side wheel here. Basically, anything from 10 yds to 50 yards is well enough in focus to shoot accurately when you have 35 yard parallax.
Things I liked: size of tube (30mm), controls are very good with easy adjustments, good reticle, well made and appears to be quite rugged and dependable.
Things I would have changed: better optical clarity; around the edge not very clear.
What others should know: this is a 30 yard scope; you have to make adjustments accordingly. i sent this unit back to factory due to clarity issue but was told by them it is a 30 yard scope...in all fairness, my eyes are not what they used to be and you may have better luck with clarity than i have. it seems to me that any adjustment, powerwise, above 4x was not very clear even at only 65 yards.
Things I liked: Very sturdy and bright. The right power range for my needs.
Things I would have changed: 1) Place the reticle on the first focal plane, so that you can use the same mildot for hold over/under at any power setting. Plus range estimation can be done at any power setting, not just max power. 2) Drop the 36 colors. Have just three colors: red, green, and yellow. Any more are too difficult to cycle through, especially if your fingers are not as nimble as they use to be. 3) As Roy stated in his review, the eye piece needs an old fashioned lock ring. But this is a "fault" that I have with all the newer scopes that have the "Euro-style fast focus" eye piece. 4) I know it would add to the price, but a side parallax/focus would be nice.
What others should know: So far, a good scope that is holding up to my HW90 with no problems.
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This scope has a power range I think ideal for my 30-06. Would it stand up to the recoil? Would the parallax have enough adjustment?
Yes it will stand up to it. And it does not have any parallax adjustment, it is a fixed parallax optic.
Will this scope survive hunting usage on a magnum springer air rifle such as an HW95, Beeman R1, etc.?
Yes leapers are known for there strength.
This scope has a 35 yard parallax setting. What is the minimum and maximum ranges at which you have a crisp, clear image?
When using the lower magnifications, 1x-3x, you should be able to get a clear picture (both reticle and target in focus) at 10 yards on the low end. Any magnification higher than that, either the target or the crosshairs will blur out. On the high end, over 100 yards you should be able to use full 8x without issue. I cannot say for sure where you would be able to use the maximum magnification between 35 and 100 yards. Likely around 75-80 yards it would begin to clear up again, but hard to say with certainty.
What type of scope base is on your gun? What type of mount do you need? Weaver, Picatinny, 3/8″ or 11mm? Do you need 2-pc mounts or a 1-pc mount? 30mm or 1″? Scope mounts intro (Airgun Academy class)
Scope includes mount. Need a different mount?