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Education / Training Testing the Gamo Whisper – Part 6 Trigger job

Testing the Gamo Whisper – Part 6 Trigger job

by B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

We last looked at the Gamo Whisper on November 11. At the end of that report, I mentioned a HUGE surprise. Well, this isn’t it.

So many of you raved about the GRT III trigger from Charlie da Tuna that I had to try it. I really like the Whisper, as I’ve said many times. It’s light, easy to cock, accurate and priced right. Anything that makes it better is good in my book.

This is a different rifle than the one I tested in the first five reports, so I will be cleaning the barrel and going through all the other make-ready preparations once again. But, before I do, I want to report on the installation and operation of this aftermarket trigger. The purpose of the GRT III trigger, as it is known, is to lighten the trigger-pull and make the trigger more adjustable. Because many Gamo rifles come with the same trigger, as well as many more Chinese rifles that also use a copy of the Gamo trigger, this one unit, which is really nothing more than a replacement blade, fits a long list of popular models.

Testing the Gamo factory trigger
By a strange coincidence, the factory trigger in this Whisper is the best Gamo trigger I’ve ever evaluated – BY FAR! It has a definite first and second stage and stage two releases without a hint of creep. It’s also quite short for a Gamo. It breaks at 4-4.25 lbs. repeatedly and is just a very nice trigger. Oh, it’s not going to challenge a Rekord anytime soon, but most shooters would like it. Charlie has his work cut out for him.

The action must be removed from the stock, and that’s when I ran into a surprising obstacle. Gamo now uses Torx fasteners to hold their rifles together! I own a Ford pickup truck, so I own a Torx driver set, but I bet this will catch a lot of hobby airgunsmiths by surprise. Allen wrenches and Phillips screwdrivers do not fit the Torx sockets properly; you need the right tools. I was angry when Ford forced me to buy the driver set, but today it saved my bacon.


All the Whisper stock fasteners are Torx.


The GRT III trigger consists of just a trigger blade. Clever shape is what makes the difference.

Remove the old trigger blade
With the action out of the stock, you remove the old trigger blade. The entire trigger doesn’t have to come out – just the trigger blade, itself. The website has step-by-step instructions.


The old trigger blade is held by a single pivot pin. Remove the circlip and push the pin out. The trigger unit doesn’t have to come out.

Remove the trigger-adjustment screw
You won’t need the old trigger-adjustment screw, so it comes out, too. Then, you’re ready to install the new blade. There’s considerable difference between the old and new blades, and the secret of it’s operation is in the shape of the new one.

At this point, I want to mention something the instructions dwell on. Inside the trigger housing is a lever that acts on the sear. This lever isn’t bushed on its pins, so it has a tendency to get out of alignment. The trigger blade has ears that fit on either side of this lever and prevent it from moving, but these ears have to be aligned with the lever (so it fits between them) or it will be permanently depressed and the rifle won’t cock. That fit is something you have to check as you install the new blade.


Looking up into the trigger unit with the old trigger blade removed, we see the lever that pushes the sear. This lever is not bushed on its pin and can flop from side to side. It has to be centered like this when the new trigger blade is installed. The hole on the right inside the trigger box is where the old trigger adjustment screw was removed.

Install the new trigger blade
Installation is a snap. Simply locate the new trigger and install one cross pin. Then, fit the circlip, and you’re done. I had the entire job completed from start to finish in less than ten minutes, and I took my time. Next time, I’ll do it in less than five minutes.


The new trigger blade fits in place and is held by a single pin.

And how does it work?
The new trigger works very well. It still isn’t a Rekord, but it’s both crisper and lighter than the original factory trigger. For a Gamo, it’s a peach of a trigger. Mine breaks at 1 lb., 14 ozs. after adjustment. I may adjust that some more as I become familiar with it.

The nature of the trigger changes entirely. At first, I thought I’d lost the second stage, but it’s still there. However, most of the pull weight is loaded into the first stage, then you feel the second stage hesitate and just a few more grams of pressure releases the sear. You can also pull the trigger but not fire the rifle. You will have removed some of the trigger-pull. It doesn’t reset; it’s just closer to release. It takes some getting used to, and it’s extremely similar to a 10-meter target pistol trigger that can do the same thing. Once you know how it works, I’m sure you can do very good work with this trigger.

I have nothing but admiration for the man who thought up this modification. Partly, for how well it works, but mostly because it was done in such a way that it’s easy to install. Yet, after installation, it’s still finely adjustable. That’s the sign of a good product.

Now that there’s a nice trigger on this rifle, it’s time to tell you about the HUGE surprise you have all been waiting for. Tomorrow.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

79 thoughts on “Testing the Gamo Whisper – Part 6 Trigger job”

  1. BB,

    I just placed my order for a trigger at Charlie’s. I hope I get mine before the rush in business you create swamps him.

    I have a Gamo Shadow series that serves my pest control needs nicely except for the rotten trigger. Thanks again for all the good info from you and the other people.

    Can’t wait for the surprise but I have the feeling it will cost me more money. So many guns, so little money!

    Al Pellett

  2. One thing I’ve noticed about Gamo triggers…

    Notice the original trigger return spring, you can see the end of it in the 3rd picture (the flat wire that sits over the adjustment screw). See how the last 1/2″ or so is bent? I’ve seen some (more recent) Gamo’s that had that spring installed backwards from the factory, resulting in a stiffer trigger (and an ill-defined 2nd stage). Needless to say, I switch them around whenever I see that.

    Also, why don’t you try this trigger in the Super Streak? It should be a direct fit. I believe that the sear lever return spring is a bit stronger in the Crosman, with the result being a slightly stiffer trigger pull but a better defined 2nd stage.

  3. Interesting timing. I ordered my GRT III trigger late last night — I couldn’t take another day of listening to the trigger on my CFX scratching while I strained to fire.

    BTW — the barrel on my CFX is starting to mottle a little from my fingerprints. Do I wipe it with a silicon impregnated rag (advice of a friend), or is there some kind of oil I could wipe it down with?

    Great blog!

  4. I have been wanting to know for about two years now, I have a gamo 1250 in .22cal will this trigger go right into it just as in the whisper and shadows in .177? I want to put it in my .22cal 1250 so much but I need to know if it will go in this easy

    Robert 1250

  5. Trout Underground,

    You will not be sorry you ordered this trigger. How about telling us how you like it?

    A silicone cloth is just about the best thing for neutralizing acidic fingerprints. Birchwood Casey’s Sheath is another fine product, but keep on using that silicone cloth.


  6. B.B.,
    I enjoy reading your 13-part springer tuning series. However, you did not mention how to properly tune a trigger unit, especially a Rekord trigger assembly and its safety mechanism. Would you consider adding the 14th part on trigger tuning in some near future? Thanks.


  7. Alan,

    I didn’t include a report on trigger tuning because I’m not qualified to do it. I know a little about adjusting and lubricating the trigger, but nothing about how to tune it.

    Trigger tuning is as specialized as tuning the powerplant. I would prefer you learn from someone who really knows what he’s doing.

    Anyone want the job?


  8. I put a GRTIII in my Phantom, and liked the feel/shape of the GRT III (flat vs the original’s rolled/stamped shape) as much as the improved pull.

    I havn’t got to do any serious shooting with it yet to see what it did for my groups though.

    I have a Charlie-Tuned B19 that will be getting a GRT trigger after the Christmas season is behind us. (primarily for the flat trigger face)

    A Crosman trigger shoe on the 1377 also gave it a whole new feel. (for the better)

  9. So your big suprise? Let me guess. you gutted cleaned polished and blueprinted your wisper and now it really is as quiet as advertised??

    Just a guess from a regual reader
    O and I love my GTR2 trigger. Charley dose great work

  10. B.B.

    Thanks for your review of the GRT III trigger. I’d heard so many good things that I was making plans for a gun I haven’t even bought yet. But Charlie told me that it won’t fit the BAM B-30. His site says that he likes Gamo rifles, so any owners of those are in luck–and he lists a few Chinese rifles.

    Maybe all of you technical wizards can help me with a much more mundane problem. The other day I received my replacement Beeman sport aperture sight for the IZH 61. And the result? This one had even more problems than the earlier, supposedly broken one. I couldn’t tighten it on the scope rail at all. I did everything the instructions said, and I think I understand the principle. You take off the top of the sight, press a sort of sliding bar that makes up one side of a female match to the dovetail mount until the sight is tightly fastened, then tighten the two microscopic Allen screws. Darned if I can make it work, though. It was like some secret person had lubricated the scope mount for all the friction I was able to get with this sight. Also, the rear Allen screw was wouldn’t catch as though it was stripped, just like the first one. I can’t believe two Beeman sights have identical defects, but I can’t see what I’m doing wrong either. Unless anyone has some advice about this, the sight will go back to Pyramidair, and I will start looking for aperture sight number four. Any recommendations here would also be appreciated. I lean towards sporting apertures rather than target models because my eyes don’t handle the tiny holes well, but I’ll be grateful for anything. Thanks.


  11. That trigger is not an original design by Charlie, it was designed by someone named Steve, who is now selling it not thru Charlie but thru Skyler in http://www.pspairguns.com/

    There was a big confrontation between Charlie and Steve a while back. Don’t know if the current Charlie version of the Skyler version is best, but Skyler also has other parts, like metal safety and sears for Benjamin/Sheridan.

  12. Matt,

    You didn’t mention the cloking screw that keeps those tiny Allen screw from slipping. Did you not tighten it? It’s the Phillips screw on the locking cross slide, in an oval window.

    To try to tighten and hold the sight with just the small screws is impossible. The locking screw draws the sight up tight.


  13. Skyler,

    Thanks for that info. Charlie may not have invented the trigger, but he seems to be pretty good at promoting it. I tested it because so many readers raved about this specific trigger and asked for the test.

    This is the first I have heard of Power Stroke Pneumatics. They seem to have some interesting products, but I find their website more difficult to understand/navigate than Charlie da Tuna’s.


  14. Charlie is the man! His (and I say HIS with confidence) triggers are truly fantastic and a great improvement over stock Gamo. It’s a great thing bb, that you have tried it and that you like it.


  15. B.B.

    As far as I know Skyler has not posted here.

    I left the message about Steve and Skyler, but I always have issues logging here and have to go to gmail first.

    And the psp site could be better, that is sure.


  16. Steve Woodward designed that trigger and Charlie sold it through his site. Charlied decided to cut Steve out and took the designs since Steve had sent him the blueprints. If you look at Charlies site you will still see Steve NC name on the pictures for the Super Sear. Charlie has advertise he was going to sell the other inventions of Steve NC but somethings Steve did not send him the drawings so charlie is still trying to figure them out. If you really want to talk to the man who knows exactly how and why it works talk to the inventor himself Steve NC. He is a regular on the Yellow Forum. We all watched him develop that trigger on the YF and it is documented there for all to see. A 5 minute conversation with both men will quickly show who is the designer and mathematician behind the creation.

    Adam in SoCal

  17. BB, the whole issue of the origin of that trigger is a bit murky. Steve did indeed come up with the first iteration, a fact that Charlie (Bob) admits. However, Bob claims that the original design needed significant refinement before it was really fit for mass market.

    I know that Steve claims that Bob is “illegally” ripping off his idea (despite the fact that they used to be business partners), but it seems to me that if this was really the case Steve would have taken legal action. As far as I know this has not happened, so I kinda suspect that Steve doesn’t have a particularly strong case here.

  18. BB, sorry to sidetrack, but I have a question to run by you. I have a Daisy Model 120 from approximately 1985. The gun has sat relatively unused for about 15-20 years. Because of my step-son’s interest in pellet guns, I started shooting the 120 again. It works fine but seems to lack power. Is there a kit to rebuild or restore power? Never worked on a spring gun’s internals but think I can handle it. Are any special tools needed to assemble or disassemble power plant for this gun? Any tips? To give you an idea of power, I was trying to site the rifle in at 100 ft. (perhaps this is out of range for this gun?) With elevation maxed out, pellets were grouping a foot to 18 inches low. I can usually place a much tighter group, so I wonder if there is some inconsistency in power. Using Daisy .177 precision max flat-nose pellets. Not sure of grains. Does this seem underpower to you? Any advice? Any advice for a scope for this rifle? Do spring guns require certain scopes? Thanks BB.

  19. bb, Hey I just looked it up by the way, and those Daisy flatnose pellets are 7.5 grains. Just wanted you to know that they weren’t really heavy pellets. What can I do to improve this gun? Thanks again.

  20. yamadogg,

    First, let’s drop 10 drops of 3-in-1 oil down the air transfer port and stand the gun on it’s butt for three hours. Then shoot it about 20 times. At the end of that, see what it does.

    The air transfer port is behind the barrel. You see it when the barrel is broken open, which is when the oil goes in.


  21. BB,

    As usual, another great blog.

    I have A somewhat off topic question for you. (More of A request) I shoot the Remington Genesis 1000, and have become quite good with it. Now I want to customize it. Do you think the stock of the Super Streak will fit the action of the Genesis? I’ve sent an e-mail to Crosman, Remington and Pyramyd and have not gotten any reply as of yet (been a week)

    I know that you have tested the Genesis and still might have it laying around and I thought it would be something easy for you to check for me.

    Thanks very much,


  22. B.B.

    Thanks for responding. You’re right that I did not mention the Phillips screw on the sliding crossbar, but I know it well. I was straining might and main to tighten that sucker. I laid the rifle on its left side on my knees pointing to the right and hoped that gravity would push the crossbar into place. Then I tried to assist gravity by worming my fingers around the loading bar release into a position where I could press down as hard as possible. The sight still slid back and forth like an ice skater! I guess some people just have the knack, and I don’t with this particular sight so another neat package just went back to Pyramid Air. Now, I’m planning to get the Williams peep sight when I get the Benjamin 397, and maybe that will fit….

    Anyway, this will all be thrown into the shade by tomorrow’s surprise. After all the build-up, this had better be good…:)


  23. Marvin,

    There are a couple ways to fix the trigger pull on the 1377c.

    One – replace the spring with a lighter spring from the hardware store.

    Two – Buy one of the trigger upgrades available. Here are a couple links.

    Three – Buy the parts for the 2300T adjustable trigger. The parts (with the Crosman part numbers) are below. You have to call Crosman and order by phone. The 2300T exploded view is available at https://www.crosman.com/site/manuals_crosman_pistols. The 2300T trigger is basically the same as the 1377c.
    $1.00 NS1200-016 (spring)
    $5.36 2300-039 (nut for spring spacer)
    $6.35 2300-038 (spring spacer)

    .22 multi-shot

  24. Hey fella’s….I really don’t like to see someone stating misinformation. I certainly don’t want to spell it all out here on your blog/forum but if you want to know what is behind the GRT-III trigger (and in all fairness to CDT) that CharlieDaTuna sells and the story behind it, just check out Charlie’s blog. http://charliedatuna.blogspot.com/ It goes into great depth and he put the blog up simply because he had no other way of letting others hear his side of the story. Everything that is on his blog is true because I was a witness to and part of the majority of it.

  25. I think I have finally broken the secret code to get on this secret site Ive been trying for months!!! Just kiddin, new to computers, old man pushin 50!!! Youngest dauter helpd me!! Have at last count 20 plus airguns & counting!! Not to get off subject the new trigger,, must have 2 of them now!! Cant wait to get home tommorow for big news about whisper!! Have not liked Gamo in past,,,,, But after 14 Pyramid positive reveiws bouht Big cat, as wel as 2 freinds of mine,, ( based on my advise)!! I am very peased with this littlegun! (as are my freinds) It is giving my Dianas arun for their money,other than that HORIFFIC trigger!!! BB I know yoy hava alot on your plate,,but you should check out a big cat at your convenience its acool little gun w, verry little twanginess ect. Av. 15 ft> Lbs.! TIM in S.C.

  26. Not shure as to where to post this?? But has anyone else had problems w/ cocking 460 mag. ??? Last detent does not want to lock almost half the time now?? After a few FORCEFULL jiggles it will reluctantly fully cock. 2 LONG trips to Umarex later SAME PROBLEM!!NEW pump arm , after bending& BREAKING!! Dont get me wrong,, gun is very accurate & somewhat powerfull, But has proven to be a lemmon among my Diana collection!!! As to power,, they must be linking up w/ Gamo and there so called hog killer!! We dont need that kind of P.R.!!Sorry Gamo My most recent go tofun gun is aBigcat!!Anyway looking now at 12-15 ft. lbs. for accuracy and less scop DESTOYING ISSUES!! Anyone w/ simaler problems w/ 460 Diana Or to swap info can Email me ,,timmyj1959@yahoo.com Thanks for this site!!!!!!! Dragon slayer in S.C.

  27. Marvin,

    Sorry, I don’t know which is best. A friend of mine went the hardware spring route and I went the Crosman adjustable route. I use mine mostly for rats/gophers at 20 feet or less. Same with my friend.

    .22 multi-shot

  28. To 22 multi shot I think you have the PROBLEM as my dauhter cals itas bad as me!!! I pay att. to your com. as I do to BB> Im finaly able to extcange info w/ you guys!!! Regarding Crossman 1377 &most symaler xx model trigger mods. has anyone like me just removed grips,removed spring AND FOR lack of better termonology,,,, SMOOSHED it beetween your fingers, making it shorter & seriously reducing trigger pull?? Yes this is serious back yard shade tree mech. but it shure has REAL WORLD worked for me!! Guess LIABILITY issues prevent you from giving this type of advice??? I understand! Other than this realy borderline mod I have done many other (mainsream mods) that I am shure you would aploud me for!! Is this not THE GREATEST HOBBY/SPORT IN THE WORLD!!!!!Thank you MR. BB & people like 22 Multi.!! Tim in S.C. AKA Drag. Slay>

  29. Stock gamo triggers that I have seen are really not two stage.

    B.B. have you seen Richard Imhoff’s web sight? He can be found at the gamo forum?

    My imagination got away from me trying to think of new power plant for a spring piston.

  30. Dragon Slayer,

    If you are pushin’ 50, you are a young man in airguns. 45-50 is about the average age of an adult airgunner. For every 30-year-old, there are two 60+ youngsters in this hobby. Visit an airgun show sometime and estimate the average age. It’s well above 50! At field target matches the average dips to the low 40s, but it doesn’t go lower.


  31. Dragon Slayer,

    The RWS Diana 460 Magnum is very sensitive to when the beartrap release is pushed. If you hold it during cocking, parts will break. That’s why there is a warning attached to all new rifles telling shooters to keep their hands off that button until the cocking lever is to be returned to the resting position.

    It sounds like your rifle might have suffered some damage.


  32. Yamadogg,

    I tuned a Daisy 120 once. You can not get much info on it as Daisy olny had the gun out for 4 years or so. It was my first break barrel springer. Parts now need to be had from a guy who lives in Rochester, MN and winters in AZ IIRC. This gun comes apart differently than most springers and can be a bear to take apart. The trigger group is holding in the spring and guide but with no cross pins. You need to make up a jig U shaped device Like a tuning fork, that reaches down the sides of the compression tube and compresses the spring at least 1/2 – 3/4″ to allow you to work the trigger group forward and down out of the gun while the spring is compressed with the jig. Let me tell you it takes work! I’d rather do HWs, Dianas, Modern Gamos, AAs than these. The 120 was made by Gamo and labled for Daisy BTW. I could get you more info but it would be easier by email if you are interested give me yours. The 120 I had did 490 fps with gamo match on original spring FYI. There is a Macarri spring that will work here and you can get the piston moded to accept syn seal too.


  33. Cant believe I am on here. Great to get all the info from you guys! I had a really awesome comment that I tried to do fifty million times but it wouldnt work but now my beautiful special wonderful daughter is her to help me.
    Signed dragon slayers daughter…

  34. When I came home today & saw replys to my posts I was the happyest man on earth!!!! Tears welled up in my eyes,, no I just had the wrong reading glasses!! Cut to the chase ,,,, Cyberskin,, Great advice& I thouht about the auto saftey & put it on before cocing & it seems to help some ,but definatly does not solve problem. THANK YOU for your insight!! I think you are right to an extent, but I think my gun has an internal problem that Umarex DID NOT ADDRESS!!//// To Multi shot ,,xx triger mod really works!!& spring can be re streched for adjustment? Of course polishing mating surfaces of all trigger components really helps too! As if you did not know that!!! Limmited succsess streching hammer spring in same CRUDE manner for more power, but better off getting B&A Boss vaulve for that! But for a five munite trigger job,, try it, you will be amazed at results!! If you SQISH it too much action will not function, adjust accordiongly. its fun to do for a free mod. that makes trig. soooo sweet!! Tim in S.C.

  35. BB, Thank you so much for your timley responce to my questions! First ,, as to my diana 460 prob. ,I have never even touched realease button whule cocking my gun , that would be hard to do anyway as it is on right side of gun & w/ big scope is unacsessable anyway during normal cocking. ( however, I do hold down that button/lever on my diana 54always when hunting for stealth) I can reload super quiet that way with thus far no ill affects on gun or my fingers!!! BB it is AWSOME to get a personal responce from you!! Also others like multi shot,thatI have noticed you seem to have respect for, among others I cant remember nanes!!Thank you BB for what you do you are an INSPERATION!!!!! P.S. Thanks for the age explanation, ironic that my 21 tr. old son home from Navy cant shoot a group as good asTHE OLD MAN!!!TIM in S.C. A.K.A. DRAGONSLAYER.

  36. Dragon Slayer,

    Gamo had an ad campaign, “Learn to be a better shot!” and they were right.
    Spring airguns teach marksmanship better than any other tool around.

    Given your handle,
    I think you might appreciate reading this new article I have just posted:



  37. BB,

    I was looking at my cf-x, (it is relatively new) and it uses 3 philips screws to hold the mechanics into the stock, not torx headed screws. Did I get it before they switched, or have they switched back?

  38. bb, yamadogg here. my daisy 120 is working better but im wondering if its up to full power. at 110′ with the open sights and crossman copperhead competition wadcutters (7.9) grains, out of 10 shots, i get 4 shots within 2.5″ radius, 4 within a 6″ radius, and 2 more shots around 8 and 9″ from bullseye. around 11.5″ ctc. i’ll use the term “grouping” very loosely here but center of groups is within an inch or two of bullseye. shots are from standing position with my forward hand resting lightly against a door frame. to target shoot at this range the rear sight has to be adjusted all the way up. pellets are really lobbing and targets at 60′ require aiming several inches low. does this seem like normal power/ trajectory for this rifle and pellet? or do i possibly have a damaged seal or weak spring? also what is the source of the wisps of grey smoke when firing? i seem to remember it allways doing that, i’ve had the gun for 20 years and untill recently havent used it much for fifteen years. any way to decrease creep in this unpredictable trigger? any advise for this old clunker? the gun that is, not me. thanks bb. yamadogg.

  39. yamadogg,

    First I would change pellets. I suggest trying Gamo Match, JSB Exact 8.4-grain (if you can get them), Air Arms diabolo field pellets and any other good pellets made from pure lead. Crosman pellets are made from hardened lead and may not be sealing your bore.

    The Daisy 120 is made by Gamo, but I don’t know whether that trigger could use the GRT III replacement blade that Charlie da Tuna makes. If so, that’s the solution.

    You shooting position is responsible for most of the inaccuracy. You need to shoot from a bench, with the full artillery hold employed. I bet you can get the total group size to 3 inches or less that way.

    The whisps of smoke are caused by dieseling. Don’t worry about it. It’s normal for a gun like this. Just shoot the gun. And the mainspring sounds plenty strong, by the way, but if you want better, send to rifle off the be tuned by an expert. Again Charlie da Tuna is very capable. Just Google his name for the website.


  40. bb, yamadogg again. good idea to try softer pellets. i’ll check with da tuna about trigger replacement. not sure about full artillery hold though, i just looked breifly through your blog and didnt find it. can u explain? can you explain deiseling also and why its ok for some guns and not others? just ordered a p1 also, will full artillery hold apply to this air pistol as well? thanks again bb, yamadogg

  41. yamadogg,

    Have you read this post?


    It explains the artillery hold. Recently I have discovered that the backs of my fingers is a better resting spot for the forearm than the flat of my open palm.

    All spring guns that shoot faster than 600 f.p.s. diesel. Dieseling isn’t bad. Detonation, where the gun explodes) is what you don’t want.

    After you read about the artillery hold you will understand that it’s just for rifles. For the P1 and all 1911-type pistols, read these posts:




  42. I bought a Gamo Whisper and HATED the stock trigger. I found it just horrendous. And hideously ugly too.

    I installed the GRT III last night. OMG, what a great trigger. I have a REAL rifle now that groups MUCH better due to a light, crisp pull.
    PLUS, the trigger is a work of machining art. Zero tool marks and gorgeous gold anodizing.
    Hot dog, it’s a wiener!

  43. I just got the Whisper as my first air rifle and the GRT-III trigger. I can’t figure out how to remove the action from the stock. Is there a trick? I removed the 2 visible screws and the trigger guard but no dice. Am I missing screws that I can’t see? I would appreciate any clues. Thanks!

  44. hey i was just taking apart my big cat today,,, I took the reciever out of the stock and some little black plactic thing fell off from somewere,,, and now when i load it, it makes some wierd sounds, and its shooting about 1 1/2 low all the time,,, do you have any clue as to what this might be?

    thanks in advance

  45. Yes i am talking about the cocking action, when I go to cock it back it double clicks right away and i’m starting to find that it just makes weird clicks everyonce in a while… I’m sorry for not being able ot describe it any better, I just suck as describing

  46. B.B.,
    I am new to airguns. Something my son and I enjoy doing together. He has a Gamo Varmint Hunter and I am awaiting the arrival of a .22 Cal Benjamin Super Streak. Should be here today. I have read alot of postings about how much the GRT III trigger can improve these guns. I have purchased 2 of them and when I went to the do it on the Gamo, I was clueless as to how to remove the stock. I see the 2 torx screws on each side, but where is the others so that I can remove it to do the trigger modification. Also, if you know off the top of your head, where are the screws that will need to be removed in order to remove the stock from the Benjamin as well. Sorry this might sound so juvenile but I do not want to mess up his rifles by trying to place this new trigger in it. I pretty much understand the instructions that came with the triggers but am just not sure about how to remove the stocks in order to get to the trigger mechanism.

    I have enjoyed reading your articles, very informative for a newbie like myself. Now if I could just learn to outshoot my son…hehe. He is getting pretty good. He shot out the flame of a candle at 25 yards with his Gamo. Of course me, I put a nice big hole in the candle. He had quite a laugh.

    Thanks Again,


  47. Jason,

    WEell you have two screws on the forearm and two on the triggerguard. Which two are you not aware of? That’s all there is to removing the Gamo stock.

    I have to ask why you want to remove the Discovery stock, and I bet I know the answer. You plan to do a trigger job – right? Well, my advice it to first try the trigger the way it comes. The Discovery trigger is a nice sporting trigger that’s crisp and not too light.

    There is a single screw in the bottom of the forearm that has to be removed. And the safety has to be removed.


  48. B.B.,
    Thanks for the reply. Yes I wanted to do a trigger job on the Benjamin…and it is not the Discovery model, it is the Benjamin Sheridan Super Streak .22 caliber. I have read where the triggers are not very good. Is it the same to remove the stock from the Super Streak as it is to on the Discovery, just the single screw on the bottom of the forearm?

    Thanks for your quick responses.


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