by B.B. Pelletier
I’ll test accuracy today. I want you to remember the price of this pistol – that it is less than half the cost of a Benjamin HB17. I’ve heard from shooters who love their 1377s and from a few who think the HB17 is far superior. In fairness, the 1377 lovers outnumber the Benjamin fans several times, as the price would seem to dictate. So one of my big questions was, “Is the 1377 a credible air pistol, all things considered?”
The pistol shot high at 21 yards, as several readers said it would. When I adjusted it as low as it would go, it shot below the point of aim, which is also good. I fiddled with the sights for a while until I got them where they needed to be, which turned out to be where I started! You see, I had started shooting with my glasses on, but when I tool them off, the front sight became sharp and in-focus, and it was easy to align with the rear. Until I did that, I got lots of vertical stringing.
I started shooting RWS Superdomes, then switched to Beeman Kodiaks and finally tried Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets. After I switched to Premiers, I started settling down. After discarding my glasses, I adjusted the sights a bit and got them pretty well centered for 21 yards on 6 pumps. Then, the groups tightened up!
The average group of Premiers was just larger than six tenths of an inch and there really was no “best group. They seemed to shoot where expected once the sights were fully seen and understood.
After trying a great many groups of Premiers, I shot a single group of Superdomes, and bested the best of the Premiers by a couple of thousandths. Too close to call, really.
At the end of testing, I shot a final group of RWS Superdomes, and darned if I didn’t beat the best group of Premiers! This is one of those airguns that simply shoots a wide selection of pellets, so leave nothing untried.
The 1377 shoots!
The point is that the Crosman 1377 really shoots! For not much money, you get both power and accuracy in a simple package. People are always asking about guns like that, so I have to tell them this is a world-beater. I don’t know where you can find this kind of value in an air pistol anymore.
The 1377 isn’t perfect. It has two obvious flaws that most people will notice – the trigger and the grips. The single-stage trigger is stiff and slightly creepy – breaking fairly consistently at 5 lbs. 2 oz. The grips are loose on the gun and no amount of screw-tightening can help them. One reader told us he installed shims under the plastic panels, but many simply swap them for a custom pair of wood panels from Ralph Brown. Either way will fix the problem, which is more annoying than functional.
With both of those problems I still managed to shoot some nice groups, so the problems aren’t insurmountable. And, given the strength of the aftermarket for this pistol, they can be resolved in a number of different ways.
I’m very pleased with the performance of the 1377. It makes me wish Crosman would bring back the 1322, because it upholds more than a half-century of air pistol-making.
70 thoughts on “Crosman 1377 – Part 3”
Morning B.B. Yes I dearly love my old 1377 and would buy a new 1372 if only one was made. Talked with the folks at Airhog about the bloop tube for the TalonSS and a 24″ barrel, but they recommended the standard SS with their bloop tube something to do with having to maybe change the valving because of the longer barrel. Good idea/bad idea?? help please and thanks Mr B
Bring back the 1322!
You are correct. Crosman is missing the boat by not producing a 1322. Instead of featuring both a CO2 pistol and a COs carbine in the "Build Your Own Airguns" in the Custom Shop,
it should offer a 1377 as the base model for customization. After all, the CO2 pistol is essentially the same as the carbine – so I never really understood the point of the two offerings. Both of these can be customized with a .22 barrel. How difficult would it be to offer a 1377 with a .22 barrel?
I have written Crosman with this request too many times. Maybe Crosman will listen to you?
Thanks for a great article BB>
I have no idea what Airhog told you. The Talon SS with a 24-inch barrel is a wonderful rifle and nothing but the barrel has to be changed.
The Condor bloop tube will work perfectly.
Now a Standard 12-inch SS will be quieter, and also half as powerful.
Oh, I have had that conversation with Crosman, I assure you. The problem is they are doing so many new things all the time that it’s easy for one more to get lost.
Thanks for trying BB. Maybe if we all join in, Crosman will get the idea.
Here is the link for the on-line contact form:
Tell Crosman to list the 1377 on the Custom Shop. That way, we can order it in various configurations right from the factory. 1322, carbine, steel breach, upgraded sights, scope, etc.
I also love my 1377. It is at the perfect power point for me: at 10 pumps, it’s enough to cleanly kill a mouse or rat, but also weak enough that misses bounce off the baseboards instead of destroying them.
Mine shoots best with RWS Hobbys, but the Premiers are a very close second.
Like the reviewed airgun, mine came from the factory bone-dry (Both of them, actually: my first one shot too far left to correct, but Pyramyd Air replaced it with no hassle). And the trigger pull was atrocious, bruising my index finger. After oiling and about 200 rounds, the trigger settled down to about 8 pounds.
The front sight was hard to locate when shooting at any dark-colored target, so I added a “JohnO DIY High Visibility Front Sight” with red tape, and that made it a breeze to shoot, as numerous small rodents can attest.
I also found that used earplugs can make great reactive targets, as long as you don’t mind missing a lot. At least they help reinforce “aim small”.
I would rather they invest the time and energy in a multi-shot steel breech, that would fit recent model 22xx/13xx guns,…but thats just my humble opinion…
BB’s test result track perfectly with miine. It was like he was shooting my 1377.
About the only difference is mine is now scoped and at 21-yards the group shrinks to 1/2″ or better. Better when my son shoots it.
The trigger is so easy to fix with just a little research.
I wish BB had touched on and photographed the little screw in the breech that must be tighted on just about every new 1377.
Do you mean the screw in the breech loading trough? Because the one on the test gun is tight.
BB, I’m guessing the 1377 is rifled… but was that always the case? I had one from my Dad that was also supposed to be god for BB’s, and I’m virtually certain that this one was a smoothbore.
Sounds like one on the low cusp of the legitimate….
Thanks for the answer about the Winchesters yesterday (you too, Sam). So the blackpowder/airgun analogy appears again. The increased power of the rifles sort of restores my faith in the Old West. Speaking of which, I’ve finished up the Elmer Keith book. Quite a read. I believe that he lived out most of his life in the 20th century, but his descriptions of gunfighting sound like the Wild West was going strong up to WWII. As surprising as anything was the habit for people to shoot each other for trivial reasons or no reason at all. Then at the end of the book, he talked about the rising crime rates of the modern era????
I also see that he was an airgun enthusiast in spirit. He keeps admonishing readers to use cheap .22 ammo to practice for the heavy calibers (buying in lots of 10,000). I’ll go him one better with .177 pellets. On to the crossbow book.
Wayne, how’s it going with the IZH 61? I hope to hear your opinion after trying such a huge range of airguns.
I found nothing but rifled barrels for the 1377 in the Blue Book.
You’re missed. Here’s a present for you:
Yes the very small screw in the breech. I purchase two last fall and both were loose. That plus all the questions about it on the prior 1377 blog add up to make one believe this is a common problem.
Anyway the fix is so easy to perform yet so difficult to describe without a photo. Maybe I’m just slow but I didn’t even think the screw was a screw because it was so small.
BTW… if you pop a scope on the barrel the lack of tightness is amplified.
I have heard of a barrel looseness problem, so apparently this is related?
Barrel looseness on 1377 [13XX’s] can come at both the plastic barrel band and the breech [one tiny 4-40 screw and one rear sight screw fix the breech]. This barrel misalignment can happen if the gun is bumped, dropped or sat upon – especially in hot weather [the plastic is more prone to shift when hot – as in a hot car]. If you sight down the top [barrel/breech] it is sometimes possible to see the dogleg bend between the breech and barrel or to see that the front barrel band is bent left or right. Fix the front band by heating slightly [ hot to touch – a 100 watt light bulb or hot car work fine] and gently bending the front sight back to straight and hold to cool [or use ice]. The rear plastic bolt cover can be moved straight when hot or by additionally loosening the 4-40 screw and shifting the bolt cover and breech of the barrel as needed. Additionally if the gun shoots low this 4-40 screw may be loose or the transfer port/gasket under the barrel may not be seated down. You can possibly reseat the port – use several wraps of elastic cord [tent pole elastic cord] wrapped around the front of the plastic breech and under the trigger guard [below the safety] to pull the breech/barrel/transfer port down and then the 4-40 screw can then hold alignment. The Crosman 459MT intermounts add to the barrel looseness/twist/alignment problem. They clamp on the barrel and each mount has two feet that don’t reach down to the barrel so add a scope and the barrel will twist. FIX: is to add a small postage stamp size shim under each intermount. Most barrels are about 0.020″ from the pump tube and this seems to be the desired thickness for the two shims. I use shims cut from the sidewalls of a large backyard swimming pool – this material is reinforced with embedded strings, semi flexible and very resistant to temperature and sunlight. Note the reinforced areas of the pool liner are 0.020″ thick [double layer]. The general thickness is not double and closer to 0.010″. Any semi rigid plastic [notebook binder cover etc. will work]. Additionally support the barrel by gluing it on with Loctite GO2 glue [Walmart]. Put a film under and over the shims and in between the shim/barrel tube and intermount. In addition fill the space between the barrel and pump tube for 1/2″ at the muzzle and at the breech in front of the rear intermount. It will need to be applied here in layers as it runs when too thick. It’s clear and easy to remove without scratching the gun’s bluing by using a wooden skewer or a pop sickle stick – just bust out the thick glue and scrape off the residue. Just for grins I have a BSA Sweet 22 scope [large 19″ – 6 x 18x40AO] mounted this way and have bumped it and knocked it over twice with minimal movement [yes, when I knocked it over the gun sighted off 3″ at 50 feet. When I tear down a 13XX I use the GO2 glue between the barrel and plastic breech and between the front 1/2″ of the plastic bolt cover and the pump tube [around the transfer port] to seal leaks that are always in this area. I like the plastic breech- it’s lighter and less cost than steel and my 70 year old eyes see 70 year old targets without a scope. These fixes will really improve the accuracy of a stock 13XX using open sights – the GO2 works great with or without the intermounts. The black plastic strip that fits between the barrel and pump tube can be discarded or cut down or glued in place as needed. thanks for your great blogs and kind sensitive comments.
It looks like a great pistol for small change. Looking at the groups, I can’t help but think that a minor lap of the crown could put it over the top. I’m going by the fact that velocity was pretty consistent, so the fact that you get what looks like two very nice groups with some separation might be a bit of roughness in the crown.
BG, yes to your minor re-crown and errant groups –
It is a great pistol for small money. As for the accuracy, remember I was shooting with open sights at 21 yards. Those groups may just be on me.
Afternoon B.B. thanks again for your advice concerning the TalonSS. I’m going to order the SS, 24″ barrel, and Condor bloop tube today. I’ll run the chronny numbers and let you know how the 2 configurations compair. Folks, the 1377 is less than a tank of gas–a real deal for a good shooter. If you don’t have one why not? Mr B
I expect you’ll get around 1,000 f.p.s. with .22 Premiers and around 875-900 with Kodiaks.
Good evening B.B. I think the figures you quoted are for .177, I was thinking of getting it in .22 for the small game hunting capabilities. Your thoughts please Mr B
I gave the IZH 61 to Josh, one of our members in both LLCs.. He, Nate and Lowell are testing the smaller, low noise ones. They all have kids… He reports that the magazine transfer issue I was having got worked out with about another 100 shots of having to help it feed.. But now it's fine and lot's of fun in his trailer park backyard shooting range.. He said the accuracy compares to the Dasisy Avanti Champion 499, both very good..
Thank you, I am going to keep it to a well thought out minimum…
Thanks also for the S410 stock link very cool, but I'm duly impressed with the walnut one it came with, at least enough to not spend for an upgrade… but, thanks for the thought..
I just ordered the Talon SS also.
Are saying that by just adding a longer 24" barrel it gets twice as powerful?
How much louder over the standard SS, without adding the bloop tube?
Thanks for letting me know. Try it yourself when you have a chance. I noticed just last night that this gun will tell you when you’re not following through. I was getting large, messy holes. Then, when I remembered to look through the shot and stay on target, the hole shrank dramatically. Not ideal for a competition gun but great for a trainer.
If I can get it back from him and the kids, they’re having too much fun with it.. I may have to wait until we get the “fun range” part set up here to get that part of the inventory back again…if ever.. I may have to write it up as a draw for them…
Josh would agree with you, it is a great trainer, like the dasiy 499
Yes tightening that little screw makes a world of difference. The barrel still floats a small amount but not enough for concern.
On mine I also shimmed the barrel in the breech to further tighten it. It is very solid now… even with a scope on it.
Yes a recrown does improve accuracy. Found it did more than smoothing out the trigger. Though that helps too. Mine shoots like a $150 gun and all I’ve done is clean, polish, and oil parts.
I’d really like a barrel that is a bit longer. Maybe I’ll upgrade it some day.
In the 80s the 1377 was billed as being good for both pellets and bbs.
The designation 1377 means the gun is only in .177. The 1322 was the .22-caliber version, but it is no longer made.
A standard Talon SS produces a max energy of about 25 foot-pounds. Put a 24-inch barrel on the same gun and the max energy climbs to about 45 foot-pounds. So the answer is yes – that is all it takes to almost double the energy.
The rifle becomes noisier with the muzzle out in the open, but a bloop tube from Airhog takes it back down to SS levels.
I wonder how a new steel breech would affect the barrel tightness?
That is impressive, I look forward to trying the Talon with both barrels..
My 1377 from the 80’s (rear-cocking) has a rifled barrel and was listed as being for BBs or pellets. The bolt probe had a magnet tip to hold the BB.
Thank you. Apparently they decided not to continue that feature.
I’m sure a steel breech would be a very effective at creating a solid barrel. However it would still rely on that same small screw. The screw actually holds the breech solid and in turn the breech holds the barrel solid.
In fact is was my plan to make that upgrade until I finally figured out what people were attempting to tell us new owners. Like I said the screw is so small some, like me, find it difficult to believe it is even a screw. That and it takes a really small allen head wrench. I had to go out and buy one.
The allen [hex] wrench is 0.050″. Some guitar stores keep these as some guitars use this size on the tuning mechanism. Some of the later 1377’s have an allen head screw holding the trigger plate on – believe it’s a 1.5mm – found one in a metric allen head set I had. Loctite GO2 glue really fixes barrel shift once you have it true to the sights – just glue a 1/2″ strip at the front and rear of the barrel – when apart I also glue the barrel into the plastic breech [just a film of glue is needed] and I glue around the transfer port [glue the front 1/2″ of the plastic breech to the pump tube [around the transfer port]. Make certain the transfer port /gasket is aligned and then hold it in place while the glue sets by wrapping a length of rubber band [I use tent pole stretch cord] around the front of the breech wrapping it under the trigger guard – seat the two screws and let dry = no leaks, no twist, no shift.
BREECH: I have a crosman long steel breech. I like it for mounting scopes. If I didn't mount a scope, I would just leave the original sights on that I painted the tips with bright yellow paint. I think crooked barn has a super breach that allows you to float the barrel.
TRIGGER: I had no luck in finding an adjustable two stage seers so I used a lighter shorter trigger spring and sanded a faucet washer down to fine tune the trigger pull to 3 LBS. Light, but still safe.
Witt posted that with the following crosman parts you can make your own adjustable trigger spring.
2300-038 Spring spacer
2300-039 Spring spacer nut
GRIPS: You can find a lot of grip for them online. I shimmed my original left synthetic grip by wedging part of a toockpick up from the bottom and painting it black. The original one was a little loose. I do have some RB SuperPump Grips on order now.
PELLETS (My Favorites):
Flatheads – Gamo Super Match
Points – RWS Super Points
Domed – H&N Field Target Trophy
Hollow Points – Beeman Coated Hollow Points
CUSTOMIZE: There are many forums and sights on how to customize the 1377. For power I think the 2250 (14.6" .22 barrel) with a pistol grip or a 2300 with a Lothar Walther match 10.1" .177 barrel would be fun to customize.
i love my 1377. i shoot it more than any other pistol. I sell ultra light trigger sprinds for them and the 2240. Use gamo match pellets for incredible groups! gamo match diablo pellets are very inexpensive and shoot like a high end match pellet. email@example.com
sorry meant to say ultra light trigger SPRINGS. Also, be sure to get a 1/2 inch wide trigger shoe from crosman.
The 1377 is fun little airgun. I forgot to order the trigger shoe, but next time I place an order at crosman I will.
The Ralph Brown Super-Pumper is great. Really helps you from pinching your hands or fingers. The Target Grip is comfortable.
I tried a pellet today which really worked out well for me, the Air Arms Diabolo Field 4.52 cal. 8.44 gr (.547 grams). Probably the best pellet I’ve used so far.
Part 3 link is not on part 1 or 2 except when noted by BB in a comment. Also, part 3 doesn’t seem to show up when you do a search anymore.
Big Ed’s Making adjustable two stage seers again. He was gone for a few weeks for medical reasons. I ordered one and kept my original spring to compare to my single stage set-up I have now.
I did have to shim my wooden grips. I used a piece of a cotton swab shaft and permanant black marker. If you look on the bottom of your pistol frame it makes a T shape. The upper right corner of the T is where I added the shim(same place as the original shim I used).
There may be a better way of dealing with this. This one was quick and easy so I quit there. It held for two years until I change grips.
I have had my model 1377 since 1992 and recently it has quit holding air. When I try to pump it there is no longer any resistance against the pump handle. I received a parts list from Crossman so I could try to repair it, but they refuse to give me instructions on how to break down the gun. Does anyone have any instructions on how to repair this problem or break the gun down? Any help would be much appreciated.
Contact these folks for help with the disassembly.
Most shooters just send their guns to a repair center for this. Here is one:
Adding a pellet holder to your 1377 is easy! Check this out. I bought STATICO Black Conductive High Density PU Foam, its used for hold Integrated Circuits in storage. You can buy it at Fry’s Electronics and similar.
Cut out a small strip to fit on the breech block, on the left hand side. Next, use a 1/8 or slightly smaller drill bit and hand drill four holes.
Finally, grab some 3M double sided sticky squares, the foam type with some depth to them. Cut a couple of strips to the size of the PU Foam and then setup the entire rig on the breech block.
And you’re done. Cheap and simple. You can carry 4 + 1 rounds with your 1377. Great for follow up shots!
I've owned my 1377C now for 3 yrs.If I could only have one airgun this would be it. I've slowly modified it into what I want and it's all you need. I ended up with a 1389 in .177 but could have went .22 instead. Everyone should own one of these. I get groups inside a dime at 10M-5pumps. It's a real vermin viper
I want to add a longer barrel to my 1377, but it looks like the stock front site also plugs the air chamber. If I put on an 18 inch barrel, what do I need to cap the air chamber, and what supplemental brackets to support the barrel might I need?
That is a good question to ask these folks:
Here's how to make the pumping action quieter, i.e. no 'clacking' when the pump handle hits the barrel, just a gentle thud.
Get some bicycle inner tube from MegloMart, preferably the large/wide 2"+ type. Clean the pump handle of excess oil with cleaning alcohol. Add some friction tape to the underside of the pump handle to help maintain the position of the rubber inner when pumping.
Cut the inner tube to length and place on the pump handle. You will need to cut a trigger guard notch to allow the handle to close fully. Be careful and progressive with your cuts as too much and the handle starts to 'clack' again. You may find a small slit at the opposite end helps reduce tension near the fulcrum. Don't let the rubber interfere with the pump linkage.
Now you have non-slip pump handle that absorbs most of the noise when you bring the handle fully home. If the handle releases by itself you will need to cut a little more rubber from the trigger guard end. Experiment as you have plenty of left over tube!
And don't forget to add Pellgun Oil to enhance velocity.
After reading this report, I was amazed by the goodnees of the pistol; and speaking of really affordable, working, and accurate guns, I have found one of them, thanks to all of you..but the next question is, can anyone recommend me other guns like this? inexpensive, yet very remarkable. thanks very much – JD
Take a look at the Beeman P17.
I shoot both the 1377 and the P17. The 1377 is my choice when I've got a little critter problem. The P17 looks cool and fits my hand like they were made for each other. The P17 has the better trigger and sights, but is harder for me to load. If you can swing both go for it.
By the way JD, B.B. writes a daily blog where alot of folks ask and answer questions, trade info about what does and doesn't work, and generally help each other out. Your post was on a blog written in 2008, not many peple are checking the old blogs. Come join us at /blog//. Looking fwd to hearing from you. Let us know what you think about the P17.
Have heard some folks say the standard peep sight for the 1377c is not usable. Finally got around to looking at using the peep feature.
Found the hole is too small for my old eyes. Drilled it out and now it works very will.
Yes, I know that this is an old blog. But I saw the blog on the 1377 and just had to comment on the trigger. It is the easiest mod in the world to do on an airgun. All you have to do is remove the grip panel, remove the triger spring, and slightly compress a few coils. I did this and my gun now has a trigger pull of about 2 lbs. All you have to do if you decide that you want to change it again is to compress or streach the spring.
I am just getting into airguns again. I have a custom shop 2240 and love it. I do wish Crosman would put the 13xx in their custom shop. I would have one with a 14 inch 22cal barrel and a shoulder stock (plus the regular pistol grip). Perfect for backpacking in the Northwest.
As to the 1377 pump slap. I just put two half inch diameter cork buttons on the handle, they are the kind you get to keep things from scratching your furniture.
I have an old 1377 with the sliding hood. Rust(not bad rust, more like oily water sludge) has destroyed the plastic and broken the plastic breach. Can I put a new steel breach on it and keep the back pull cocking piece?
welcome back. Unfortunately, you've posted your question onto a blog written a year and a half ago. Only a core of volunteers monitor these older blogs so you won't get much exposure here. First, I suggest you go to this url:
This is the most current blog which is published 5 days a week. Post your question there (just scroll down to the end of the FIRST blog and click on "comments"). Off topic questions and comments are always welcome and you'll get thousands of people looking at your comment. Second, I suggest going to the Crosman website (www.crosman.com) and click on their custom shop link to see what's available. They have developed into a very customer oriented company. I personally can't answer your question, not being familiar with the 1377.
Follow FRED's advice and post further questions on the current day's blog.
Many people including myself have implored Crosman to add the 1377/1322 to the custom shop. They will not listen so far. It is much to their detriment.
I am sorry to inform you that you cannot upgrade your older style 1377 to the steel breech with bolt handle. This is a frequently asked question on the Crosman forum.
In spite of this setback, you have decided to get back to airguns at a very good time. The choices and quality available now are unprecedented.
I got a 1377c and love it-it's a great, fun little shooter. However, the rivet/bolt that keeps the pumping lever attached to the air reservoir near the muzzle worked its way out of place on the first gun I had (after about 800 pellets), so I returned it for a replacement gun.
Unfortunately I'm seeing the same thing is happening to the new gun. Have you (or anyone else reading this) heard about this? I hope this issue can be resolved as I really enjoy shooting this gun!
I have not heard of this being a problem. Have you asked on the Crosman Forum?
I was wondering, is it harmful at all to the gun use the pump lever as a sort of makeshift bipod (unipod?)?
You have to watch the dirt. When the pump handle is extended, dirt can get into the mechanism and on the pump head. That's why I wouldn't recommend it.
You should review the 1322!!!
Welcome to the blog.
You have commented on a posting that’s 4 years old. Very few people will ever see it.
Why not come over to the current blog and post?
B.B. Pelletier, I’m new to the blog and cannot find where to post like you told Mitch on November 6, 2015.
Please- Please-do another review on Crosman’s 1377c and 1322. May I ask you to confirm that with stock, or steel breech and MIM rear sights, that you cannot shoot to point of aim. You simply run out of adjustment. What is the purpose of adjustable sights if you cannot adjust and hit your target if you have to “GUESS” at where on the 6 o’clock hold to put the front sight?……….or what your shooting distance is?……..or how many pumps to put in the gun to hit your target?
You may contact me by personal message if you like. firstname.lastname@example.org
I have been thru this problem with Crosman using Air Venturi as my verification. No results, just excuses from Crosman.
Welcome to the blog.
It may be a while before I get around to either the 1377 or the 1322 again.
On the sights, I just report what I find. Because I have over 30,000 registered readers, airgun companies pay attention to what I say. I don’t try to hurt the guns I review by telling tales, but my responsibility is to the customer, and nobody else.
As far as posting questions, the best place is on the current blog, which is here:
Yeah, I know this is an older thread. But, since I often reread older threads here, that’s just fine. All the old threads can be a treasure trove of information for us readers.
Since this thread there have been at least two very coll developments. First, Crosman brought back the 1322. And, very recently, Crosman has added the 1377 platform, as a starting point for it’s very cool Custom Shop service. Now, shooters can order the 1377 Custom Shop airgun WITH the steel breech. There must be a ton of perfectly good take off plastic breeces around. Soo, the Custom Shop shows that a 10.1″ Lothar Walther barrel will be available.
My dad, who passed in 1996, had an old 1377 that he used like I use mine. Target shooting, and pest ridding. He used his to shoot squirrels in his yard, that were raiding the bird feeders. I use mine for target work, and to shoot rats that raid our chicken coop.
But, his was all stock. I have boith a 1377 and a 1322, and heve done the following to both. Replaced the plastic breech with a Crosman steel one. Installed a decent scope. Installed the Crossman skeleton stock. These make really fun, fast handling shooters, that are light, compact, and can be pretty accurate.
My 1377 is pretty picky about pellets though. The 1322 likes Ruger Superpoint pellets, and will drop a rat with authority. I have no local access to most of the premium pellets here (big island of Hawaii), and shipping can go from free (Amazon), to we don’t ship to Hawaii. Interestingly, the 1377 has decided it likes the Gamo Match wadcutters the best. I know these pellets don’t have a sterling reputation, but, in this gun, they work. I shoot targets at 11 yards, as that distance, I can have me, my gun,and the target under a roof and keep dry. Also, that’s a handy distance for me to set up by the coop to shoot rats. The other day, I decided to try the Gamo’s at 20 yards, knowing that wadcutter accuracy may not hold up at much distance. I just shot one 5 shot group rested. The scope is a Winchester 4 power with AO. The group was 3/4″, which I thought was pretty good. But, if I throw out the worst shot, it leaves me with 4 into 3/8″, with all pellets touching. I’ll take that any day. These guns still have the stock barrels remember. The Gamo’s did beat out some respected pellets that I have on hand. RWS Hobby’s, Diablos, and two other RWS pellets, plus all the standard Crosman pellets. Winchester round nose work okay, but throw more fliers than the Gamos do. Anyway, I dropped a rat yesterday at about 12 yards. He stuck his head up out of a hole, and I got him. The Gamo did the job. I use 8 pumps in both these guns for ratting.
If nobody read this, that’s okay. But some of us really DO use this great searchable database on airguns, and I use it a lot. I check in here like 3-4 times a day, and have for years. Sometimes you do more than one piece a day, and I don’t read every one, but don’t want to miss those that I am interested in.
So, Tom, thanks for all the articles, and years of you promoting this sport. I’m an old smokeless powder shooter (and rimfire, and some black powder), and shot in NRA Hunter Pistol and IHMSA 200 meter pistol matches for years. Started handloading my own ammunition (under STRICT supervision) at 14 years of age, and am now 62.
At least one person will read it! 😉
I’ve had my P1377 for about 2 years and I love it. It seems to get more accurate over time, and I don’t know if that is due to “breaking-in”, or me improving. In any event, I was wondering if the new “more easy-to-pump” forward stock is worth getting or not. Comments would be welcome. Thanks
I definitely agree with all that is said in this article. Though realistically do you know ANYONE that does not at least upgrade the piston and valve, at very least with stuffing the piston, shimming the cup, and shaping the valve nose, and at best with a fully adjustable flat top metal piston, and flat topped valve that has been ported and tuned for volume? As such I would say that is a more common upgrade than the grips, and the grips are not a mod, as they do not change the function of the gun, just the hold.
Also I am not much of a pistol shooter so all of my 1322’s wear stocks, and I personally prefer the 1399 stock with a cheek riser added, and I have tried a few different stocks.
While I have a few 1322’s, I just ordered my very first 1377.
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Crosman 1377 Sight mod for nearsightedness
I recently bought a P1377. I am very nearsighted and cannot see anything without wearing glasses. The main reason I bought this gun is to kill rabbits and squirrels in my garden, at relatively short range, 40 feet at most. Bear in mind that I am on foot in that situation, and not able to brace the gun against anything. It was impossible for me to shoot accurately using the open sight. The peephole was much better, but still not adequate for my purposes. After some practice and experimentation I realized that the closer the sight was to my eye, the better I could see and aim. But the hole of the peep was much too large for my needs.
I removed the rear sight plate and cut some stock aluminum to the same shape as the original plate. I drilled the peephole with a #56 size drill – that’s about 3/64” The mounting slot in the plate that I made was copied similar to that of the original. When the modified plate is installed, the peephole should end up being right above the top of the plastic rear sight block.
With this done, I could put the new peephole right up against my eyeglasses. Fortunately this gun has very little recoil. Then I worked on my shooting stance. I realized that I could actually place the stock of the pistol right against my jaw, to increase stability. I then place my left elbow on my hip and make a fist on which to rest the gun barrel. My trigger arm has my right elbow bent at 90 degrees to my body.
The result is that I can now hit a 3 inch target at 20-40 feet consistently, with enough accuracy to kill vermin without missing. Fortunately rabbits and squirrels have more body than a target the size of a golf ball.
Apparently the 1377 model is tried and true, and nothing better has since appeared on the market. I was pleasantly surprised that it was lighter than I expected and fits the hand well. Even the production quality was quite good. When trying it out after the mod I braced it against a doorframe and found it to be amazingly accurate – if you can brace or support it, as opposed to doing freehand shooting with it. Powerful too – at 10 pumps it will imbed a pellet well into plywood, or a small animal.
The trigger is much too stiff, but aim and yank will suffice. Pumping it is easy for the first five pumps, then it gets harder. I found that if you place the stock on your right hip, you can then use both hands to pump it with, at all times keeping your fingers away from being pinched.
The sight modification and discovering what works for me makes the 1377 useful and enjoyable. I hope these tips might help someone.
At the going price, this gun is a steal. Happy shooting!
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