by B.B. Pelletier
Well, this is a very poignant report. Because the day I posted Part 2 was the first day I spent in the hospital, back in March of this year. The plan at the time was to finish the report in another week or so, but things got in the way until now.
You can re-read Parts 1 and 2 and learn what I already discovered about the RWS 92. Vince, who gave me the rifle, had apparently tuned it with a general deburring and some moly lube. I commented that the rifle seemed like a 7/8-sized FWB 124 in many design ways.
Today, I tested accuracy, and this is a big deal. I think it’s the first accuracy testing I’ve done since getting sick. I know I was certainly thankful for the 20 lbs. of cocking effort, because I’ve lost a lot of upper body strength over the past several months. And one flaw I see in the rifle is the lack of a rubber buttpad, because the plastic buttpad tried to slip off my leg as I broke the barrel down.
I shot it at 10 meters indoors, and I used those fiberoptic open sights. They were designed for a center hold, but I wanted all the precision possible, so I lit the target and made the sights appear dark. Even so, the rear sights have a scooped-out semi-buckhorn shape that makes precise aiming difficult.
The lightweight RWS Hobby pellet turned in a pretty good target. Ten shots at 10 meters fell mostly into the same hole. The outliers were in close orbit of the six in the center. They fit the breech tight…but well.
The firing impulse is quick and a bit harsh, but there’s no vibration afterward. The trigger has one bit of creep in the second stage, but it’s repeatable and I knew when it was going to fire.
Crosman Premier lites
The 7.9-grain Crosman Premier lite pellet showed a tendency to shoot to the same place but look at the one on the lower right. That was not a called flier. It just happened. So, I think the solution is to do some serious pellet sorting if ultimate accuracy is desired. This is another pellet that fit the breech tight but well.
JSB Exact 8.4 grains
The JSB Exact 8.4-grain pellet fit the breech loosely and delivered a group potentially as good as the Hobbys. The one high shot was a called flier.
The bottom line
I have to say I wasn’t expecting this much quality or accuracy from the RWS 92. It’s a delightful little air rifle. And I hope you all realize that I could scope the rifle and probably get groups like these out at 25 yards. These open sporting fiberoptic sights offer very little aiming precision. Take a look at Part 1 to see what I had to deal with.
I wish more little spring guns like this were made today. This is why I like the Bronco so much. The 92 is another version of that same idea. A little rifle you can shoot all day long.
81 thoughts on “RWS 92 – Part 3”
In my experience you can’t emphasize Vince’s contribution to the accuracy of this gun. A general deburring, lube and undoubtedly magical work on the trigger greatly helps with accuracy.
I’ve had Vince work on several of my guns. He keeps a low profile but has a gift and passion for airguns. If you do a search on this blog you will find some unbelievable work done by Vince on many of Wayne’s basket cases. You will also find many guests blogs that Vince unselfishly contributed that are among the best from guest bloggers.
For those that have never shot a tuned gun please realize that a properly tuned gun will take you to a different level of the hobby.
Kevin – I second your thoughts on Vince.
B.B. – If you like the 92, you’re going to LOVE the 94. Just have Vince ‘go through’ that one too.
Yep, Vince is top notch! He and I discovered the RWS92 and much larger 94 a couple years ago while they were getting closed out. I got some of the last ones PA sold. Umarex was selling the 92, 93, and 94 for like $65 to $90 in groups of 6 or more to dealers as they closed them out.
Forget the 93 though, it’s got a terrible trigger. The 94 is a real power house with a very good trigger. But not your “all day” shooter like the 92, which is just a little larger and more powerful than Tom’s Bronco.
I sold my 94s, “no springers over 750fps in my stable”, but still have 3 of the 92s for loaners at the club.
Ashland Air Rifle Range
Haven’t had the pleasure of experiencing Vince’s work firsthand, but I’m convinced from all I’ve seen. I can vouch for the great tuning jobs by Rich Imhoff and Mike Melick which made a real difference for my rifles.
Hooo-boy… guys, I really didn’t do much to these guns. They didn’t need it. Yes, I’ve managed to salvage a few oinkers – but just plain fixin’, nothing fancy. In fact, if you look up BB’s previous blogs on this gun you’ll find that I apparently sent it out to him with a loose breech.
Strange as it may seem, BB might have gotten very decent results with Gamo Hunter pellets. For some reason, some 92’s seem to like ’em.
In any event, it’s good to see a jen-you-wine BB test again. And on this gun – well, it’s like wrapping up his unfinished business. So maybe it’s a good sign…
Good groping but i think that this beauty is capable bulls-eye all the way ,aim little higher 😉 all in all great ,good work Vince :)!!!
I have been having a huge raccoon problem lately. They keep getting into the pond and eating my pet koi! I have a .22 cal Marauder and wanted to know if that has enough power to humanly deal with the coons? I am getting almost 40 foot pounds of energy with the jsb monsters and wondering if that would be the best pellet to use. Thanks for the advice and love reading your blogs in addition to hearing the podcast,
That will take care of them with a brain shot. I have laid them out with a .177 TSS with only half that much power.
The Marauder should be perfect for what you want. The power is ideal, and as twotalon points out, more than enough to do the job.
Sorry to hear about the koi. The heron’s and kingfisher’s devastated my koi years ago and I never replaced them. My wife is the ultimate animal lover and named them all. When we returned from a vacation their uneaten body parts were strewn around the pond. They just killed for sport.
Raccoons have thick skulls. Hope your able to take a close shot with your marauder. Good luck.
Coons can jump a long way. I’ve heard that they will launch into a roll and come up at a dog when cornered, grabbing it by the throat. You won’t get it off with out killing it either.. watch your throat man..
Depending how redneck you are, here is an option. Live trap the coon. Verry carefully get a rope around his neck. Tie him to a tree and feed him cornbread and butter milk for a week. Then when its time, put one in his ear.
I thought you did that with possums. If they are carrying around a dozen little ones, you put them on a stick like shishkabob.
Sounds like the Bruce Lee of the animal world.
It sounds funny,but they are not to be underestimated.When cornered they can be vicious….razor sharp claws and teeth,and infection is guaranteed!Not to mention if it gets away,it’s rabies treatment time….not possum like at all!On the upside,DELICIOUS!
Remember that raccoons carry rabies. Not all, of course, but enough to discourage any ‘hands on handling’ (or eating).
Congratulations getting back on the range BB.
It is only this year that I first experienced fibre optic open sights.
For me (Mainly a ‘plinker’ some say a ‘plonker’lol)they were like a revelation.
Almost point and shoot.
Although not a ‘target’ shooter I can see what you mean about precise aiming though.
Hey Dave what s with your accuracy did you change piston seal or ….!?My 34 is still in pieces collecting dust(so much about “high quality airguns”)
Accuracy is fine now I sorted the rear sight and learned to adjust the foresight in tandem.
After removing the sprung adjuster on the rear sight and replacing it with a plastic coated nail,I can get finer elevation adjustment and a modicum of lateral adjustment as well.
The days of ‘High and to the right’are gone 🙂
The next strip down I will do the seal.
No panic at the moment,this one is working ok.
Still no luck getting a spring for the 34 C-S?
No luck i am frustrated -how hard it is to make a spring or sell a spring that fits in two of most popular Diana models 31 and 34 and when i say that my spring is broken they say that Diana spring would never broke -on this forum alone there is two of us with broken 34 spring -i know it was my fault (i over lube it) but still HOW HARD IS TO SELL ME A SPRING 🙁
I have.177 marauder and it is leaking at the threads of the foster fitting. I contacted crosman and they shipped me a new fitting, but it is still leaking. I tried teflon tape on the threads but the tape won’t seal it keeps backing up on the threads of the fitting. I tried to email crosman two times but have got no reply. Can anyone help me with this problem.
A leak around the fill fitting and/or gauge on the marauder have been common problems. The oem o rings are too large and get twisted upon installation. Contact Tim at mac 1 and get the orings he’s been using to fix this problem.
Mike,I can help….here is why the teflon tape isn’t working.You said the magic words”the tape keeps bunching up”.That and 25 years exp. tell me the tape is put on a**backwards.TRY this,wrap the tape 4 or 5 layers pulled tight CLOCKWISE with the end that goes in the gun facing you.I’ll be surprised if it doesn’t work.4-5 times around is plenty…..pull it tight to break it off.If that doesn’t work…it must have cross-threaded.Hopefully this helps!
Thanks Frank I will try that. A friend of mine told me the same thing he is a pipe fitter.
Let me know if you need further help….I think you will be fine!
Seems the first affordable, miniature compressor to hit the market is a success.
I’ve been following the reviews of Tom Kaye’s new miniature shoebox compressor. These compressors come in either 3,000psi or 4,500psi and cost around $400.00 shipped. Although they can be used as a stand alone unit to fill your scuba and/or carbon fiber tanks most people are using a cheap shop compressor to dramatically decrease the time it takes to fill their tanks.
Since the first production run shipped about 30 days ago a lot of reviews are now available from users. Seems the only significant problems are a result of not lubing the compressor every 3-4 hours. Tom Kaye has been very good about sending replacement parts free to those that don’t follow the instructions. He has a great reputation for standing behind his previous inventions but it’s nice to see he’s paying attention to the few issues that people are having with his shoebox compressor. Here’s a link with a video of the compressor running and right below the video is a good FAQ:
This compressor is heading in the right direction but he says it takes 24 hours to fill an 80cu/ft scuba tank to 3,000 psi. Also, hoses must be purchased separately, and it requires a minimum of an 85 psi at 1 CFM shop compressor in addition to give it some kind of boost. It doesn’t have moisture protection either. That must be purchased separately, too.
Correct on all accounts. Harbor Freight has a compressor that meets/exceeds the 85psi at 1cfm for $79.00. Moisture separator and hose kit is $39.00.
Is it the fill time you feel needs improvement or the total cost (for those that don’t already own an air compressor) of around $500.00 that needs improvement?
Mostly it’s the time needed to fill the tank and tolerating the noise for 24 hours. Thinking of a compressor like that running for 24 hours plus needing fed by a shop compressor periodically during that time (don’t know how often the shop one needs to run) brings reliability and durability into question. Plus the noise factor over that period of time. I have a shop compressor and it is the noisiest piece of equipment. A couple times I accidentally left it turned on in the garage and had it awaken me rather rudely in the middle of the night when it kicked on.
Folks, this compressor was not meant for filling 80 cu ft scuba tanks! While it will do so, it takes an aux compressor and 24 hours and MUST be lubed about every 4 hours. Are you going to be available every 4 hours to lube it so that you don’t void the warranty?
It was meant for filling paint ball tanks and would be wonderful to use in place of a pump or scuba tank for filling your pcp guns directly. Though the lack of water filtration capabilities gives me reason to wonder. And it would still take a fair amount of time to fill your gun.
That said, it would be much cheaper to buy an 80 cu ft scuba tank and get it filled locally.
B.B. congratulations on getting back to shooting. I bet it feels good. You haven’t lost anything by the looks of it.
I found out that the Arsenal AKs are illegal in California. Why am I not surprised. Oh well, I have as many guns as I can shoot, and the Garand is still my number one military rifle anyway. I’ll have to enjoy the Arsenal AKs in my mind, but what a weapon. Your tackdriving SKS intrigues me. The testimony out there puts the average accuracy around 4 MOA. So, either you got lucky and/or you hit a good manufacturing run that really shows the potential of the design. I understand that in Vietnam, the SKS was used as a sniper rifle.
pcp4me, my understanding for AR rifles is that you can change calibers just by switching out the uppers and the magazine. That’s half the fun of the “modularity” of this system which allows people to forgive its other foibles. Also, you’re apparently able to recover cost by effectively getting several rifles in one.
CowBoyStar Dad, hadn’t heard of the CZ SA58 but there is a review of it in American Rifleman that you can find by Googling. The review is pretty positive and enlarges on the points made by Duskwight. Most interesting for me is that although it externally resembles a Kalashnikov, its mechanism is closer to the STG-44, the German assault rifle that inspired the AK and was quite a weapon in its own right. I’d say between this design pedigree and the CZ manufacturing methods that you couldn’t go wrong.
I wouldn’t exactly call my SKS a tackdriver. 4 MOA is probably right. But compared to most I’ve shot, it’s a keeper.
BB& Matt: Don’t over-look old school tech for defensive long guns. I keep a lever action .44-40, 92 Winchester clone and a old Ruger .44 mag auto-loader as a defense gun for use againist both two legged and four legged preditors, that might be out of shotgun range. Both beat the hell out of the SKS for accuracy, even if the Ruger’s magazine capacity is lacking. Really like the Ruger .44 best. Mine wears A Williams peep. Robert
The CZ SA58 piqued my interest for a number of reasons. I was originally at my gun dealer pricing out .22 AR’s (the Ruger and a couple of others), because I couldn’t really justify the $1500 starting price of a good 5.56 AR (these are Canadian prices, they may seem out of line down there).
The Ruger and S&W .22 AR’s were both around $1000.
Then my dealer pulled down the CZ. I’m familiar with Slavia quality and .22 CZ rimfires as well as the CZ75 pistol so I figured it would be pretty well built.
When he told me the price new, with 1100 7.62 rounds was $795 it kinda stopped me in my tracks.
I’ll check the American Rifleman review but I think it’s definitely in my future.
This is a little off topic but I was wondering if anyone knew of an expert in the history of muzzle loaders. My dad has an old muzzle loader which has been passed down in the family and I’d like to know more about it – date and place of manufacture, etc. I’m guessing it has to be at least 160 years old and probably built in Virginia, or what is now West Virginia. I was hoping I could just take some pictures and have them sent to the expert. Any ideas? Thanks all.
How is the rifle fired? is it a cap lock or a flintlock?
What if anything is written on it?
What do the sights look like front and rear?
What is the approximate caliber? Use a ruler across the muzzle and estimate if necessary.
How long is the barrel?
I have reference books on older muzzleloaders and might be able to point you in the right direction.
Thank B.B. I wouldn’t know a flintlock from a flint rock, but I’ll see if I can get some answers to your questions.
Barrel and bore are octagonal
Bore is about .375 in
Barrel length is 36.75 (inside)
Front sight is a blade. Rear sight is located way up on barrel, about 14 inches from the trigger and is simply a broad U-shape with maybe 1/4 between the posts. There is a very slight V at the bottom of the U.
There is some text, but it’s very near the percussion cup and mostly rusted. Some of last letters might be xxxxxxxucr or xxxxxxxugr.
My dad says it belonged to my great, great grandfather who was born around 1836 I believe in West Virigia.
I have some pictures if there’s a way to post them so you can see them.
Thanks for your help.
Also it has two triggers, the front one nearly straight and the back one quite curved.
Okay, I’m getting a pretty good picture of the gun. The start of the percussion cap era began around 1820 and sort of ended (it never really ended) around 1870. But some old flintlocks have been converted to percussion (caplock), so it may be a little older than you think.
The caliber is small and the barrel is long for that caliber. What you have is correctly called a squirrel rifle. It’s generally too small for deer, but great for squirrels, rabbits and turkeys. The sights are right for an old rifle of the pre-1850 timeframe.
It was probably built by a small gunsmith who worked near where your grandfather bought it. If so, and depending a lot on the condition, it might be worth some money. The shape of the stock is often a big clue to where it was made, and sometimes even who made it.
Since you haven’t mentioned it, I’m guessing there isn’t a patchbox in the butt of the rifle. There may be a round hole for hard grease, or there may be nothing at all.
Most folks post photos to a public place like Picasa, and then put the link to that spot in this comments section. Pictures will help me identify more for you, though I don’t know how far I can go with it.
Your rifle may have a patent breech. If there is one or two metal keys through the forearm, they can be pushed out and the barrel will raise up out of the stock. It pivots up at the breech. But if there are bands around the barrel this won’t work.
By taking the barrel out of the stock you may find additional markings.
I forgot to ask whether the stock runs all the way to the muzzle. If so, that is a sign of an older gun.
The two triggers are correct. They are called double set triggers. Pulling the rear one “sets” the front one that will then go off with a very light pressure. This is a common feature on rifles of this age.
That Diana mainspring absolutely, positively, definitely did not break because it was “over lubed”. The spring broke because it was either improperly manufactured (Not properly stress relieved, poor metalurgy, scragged…), or the spring guide did not fully support the spring—or it was a combination of those factors. Over lubing had nothing to do with it. The best spring in the world won’t last if it has inadequate support from the spring guide. It’ll buckle, kink and rattle it’s way to an early death.
Look at this as an opportunithy to put a much better spring into your gun and get a new spring from Jim Maccari and have a guide made to fit it correctly. It’ll last a decade or more.
Derrick -look at all original 34 springs (or most of them)after about 500 shoots they are bent when you open the gun -last time i saw the spring -it was bent -that was a reason why i asked Fused before his 34 spring also broke is his spring bented -derrick i aggre with you spring is too long and bad spring guide is main culprit tuning or de-tuning is my main option -Thank you for the answer and opinion 🙂
Actually I’ve met situations when overlubing caused a spring to break 🙂 Overlubing may lead to diesel effect and that can overstress and finally break even a properly manufactured spring.
Duskwight-i guess it s my bad !I didn t tell you guys that i have overlubed chamber -piston seal, and i must say that i had some heavy dieseling
opportunity, no, I can’t spell.
yor were too fast – I was all set to make a smart alecky comment on opportunithy. On the other hand, I have finished upgrading my 20+ year old bike from frame shifters to Shimano Sora Brifters plus put a more comfortable, taller steering head shaft on. I just can’t get rid of this bike, even though my Fuji has better everything and is lighter!
A news story today recalls an earlier discussion of ours about the best defense against bears. The word is that conservation efforts have increased the population of grizzlies leading to more bear attacks. Park rangers (as well as many online commenters for what that’s worth) come out strongly on the side of pepper spray over even the heaviest handguns for defense. The reasoning is that to stop a grizzly charge with a handgun, you have to hit the eye or the hump on its back while the animal is bearing down on you at 40 mph. Any other target will not stop the bear. Its head is shaped to deflect impact and it has so much bone and muscle that no shot will stop it except for the above places. Best comment (which doesn’t necessarily speak to its truth) is that for any handgun less than .44 magnum or .45 LC, you should make sure to file off the front sight so that it doesn’t get hung up when the bear shoves it up your —. 🙂 A cloud of pepper spray can hardly miss the eyes and nose. But there are downsides to pepper spray as well. You have to hold your fire until the bear is 10 feet or 30 feet at the outside which can be covered in the blink of an eye. Otherwise, your spray will miss the bear. And there is always the chance of an adverse wind blowing which will turn the spray back on you and merely season you for the bear’s consumption.
In view of all this, I would give a slight edge to a pump-action longarm loaded with 30-06 or heavy caliber slugs. (Although if you have to carry around this kind of firepower, you have to wonder if the outdoors is worth it.) Next would come the pepper spray and third would be handguns. Kevin, what’s the story?
with an animal the size of a VW beetle coming at me at 40 mph, I am certainly not going to wait for it to get within 10 ft or even 20 ft of me before letting loose with some pepper spray. In fact, I doubt the animal would even be able to stop in time. Better you spray yourself with the stuff so maybe you don’t taste that good :). I suspect those “Park Rangers and other commentators” have not tried this approach – and lived to tell about it! I totally agree with your approach, however, and even would add a 12 ga. shotgun slug. Definitely not a Quackenbush.
Hell, I can’t even ride my bicycle that fast.
I guess the only proper way to use pepper spray against bears is to pepper 12-gauge slug shells before loading them into your over-and-under or pump-action 🙂 I’ve heard stories that even 2 soft-point 7,62x54R into chest were not able to stop it. So my choise is 12-gauge slugs, peppered, salted, cinnamoned or even vanilled – as you and bear like it 🙂
I never hunted bear, however I’ve seen one @ 50 or so meters. The size of this beast… it was just a little smaller than a cow, and I was told it can run like a horse. However a dreaded predator was too busy on blueberry to give us any notice 🙂
After all I wonder – a bear is a very cautious, peaceful and prudent beast. It knows how to avoid man in a forest and it’ll rather run from than towards you.
Of course, an insomniac bear is another story, it is a real brown nightmare. Here it is called “shatun” (rocker) because it doesn’t sleep and wanders around, often killing cattle, sometimes they turn man-eaters.
So what is the reason for bear attacks? Maybe those bears didn’t fear humans or humans were stalking them with cameras or other way making them to attack?
If you ever go to the Norwegian island of Svalbard (aka Spitsbergen) you will be handed a booklet when you get off the plane. The sheet explains that polar bears are prevalent and dangerous (they aren’t Coca-Cola salesmen), and that you *may not* leave the town without a long gun. Then it gives advice on how to avoid irritating the bear into charging you, where to shoot him, etc. Then the townspeople suggest that if the bear charges and you don’t stop him, you should save one round for yourself.
Yes, I’ve been there; this is first-person testimony. Yes, my party always had a heavy rifle carried by a guide who knew the weapon well.
A polar bear would make bigfoot wet himself!
If i order spring from UK will my power(fps)be lower (because of their laws)??? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqQn2ADZE1A
Ok semantic not “my power”power of my 34 -does UK HAVE “WEAKER SPRINGS”?DaveUK dont take offense ?! 😉
The best defense against bears is to take along a buddy who can’t run as fast you can….
AND THAT IS THE ANSWER!
Congrats on the bike upgrade. Did you spend airgun money on the parts or do you keep separate accounts? Hopefully, you (or the wrench if you had a shop do the work) also aligned the rear derailleur hanger.
Other day: Wife calls me at work…(I detected a somewhat indignant tone) “I was getting new checks out of the gun safe, and–IT’S COMPLETELY FULL OF AIRGUNS!”
Me: “I know honey, it just looks full because it’s such a little tiny safe. Hey, gotta go, busy here at work–click”
I’m so excited I have to share….I just made a deal for a very rare airgun from 1912-1917 Sweden.It is called a C-1 from a company called Excellent.It’s a multi-pump .21cal smoothbore,that still shoots hard enough to hunt! @585 fps w/13gr roundball.The company only made 8,000 rifles[all models]between 1908-1939,so a surviver in smooth bore could be considered kinda rare!
Best co2 pistol around $60
Single shot or repeater? What caliber? assuming money is tight,a .22 Crosman 2240 is big bang for the buck,and upgrades are readily available and very affordable!
ether or 117 or 22 is fine
Take a look at the 2240,then check out a google search of 2240 mods!You WILL get excited for one!You can put together a heck of a gun for cheap.
I looked around a lot and for the money (or lack of) I purchased a 2240. I really enjoy shooting it. Only mod so far has been swapping to steel breech, well that and mounting a cheap red dot. I’ve found nothing to complain about this pistol.
Did you get the long breech or regular? I am curious to see if the long breech extends the barrel.
I just ordered the steel breech. I didn’t realize there where two different ones so I would assume mine is regular. Probably the best to ask would be “derrick” or “slinging lead”. They are very informed and provide me with any info I need.
Thanks. See reply below.
Regardless I plan to add a longer barrel. It’s just not a priority at this time.
Congratulations on the Rare C-1 from Sweden. Saw a picture in the blue book. Interesting.
I’ve got my first MSP on the way with a walnut thumbhole. Couldn’t resist trying something new.
Thanks,Kevin.I fell a** backwards into it.Wasn’t even offered for sale!Stars in alignment or something like that.I’ve been chatting w/ Gaines and may have something in the works.Boy will I owe you if this happens.He is a gentleman of the highest caliber.Almost all the collectors are.
The Crosman long breech just covers more of the barrel compared to the short. The barrel position or length is unaffected.
Now this leads me to a question. Is the steel breech available in both a long and short version? When I ordered my steel breech it was just that “a steel breech”. It is “longer” than the original breech (plastic). Yes, you are correct (you know that already 🙂 ) it did not affect barrel length.
If you wanted a much longer barrel to free-float,the longer breech would keep it held in position better,and reduce the potential “harmonics.”With a barrel length near stock length,it would also give scope mounting flexibility.
I can mount a scope. My question was simply if there are two different steel breeches for the 2240. Nothing was specified when I ordered mine, it was simply a steel breech. Derrick and Slinging Lead seem to be very informed about anything Crosman so I was just asking that’s all. 🙂 I’m going to get a longer barrel just not a priority right now.
I’m just catching up, thanks. I was hoping that the long breech would cover the same amount of bbl and slightly extend the muzzle so I would have room to mount a moderator of sorts without having to buy longer bbl. Looks like a longer bbl is in order.
Re: the muzzle loader
Well the first time I tried to leave this comment it didn’t take; hopefully this time. (It wouldn’t let me do a reply.) Thanks again for taking the time to check into this.
Actually it may have a patch box – on the side of the stock, if that’s what it is. You can see the pictures at the link below by searching for Texas Jack1. My dad took them with his iphone so they’re not very good. If there are other angles that would be helpful,let me know. Thanks again!
I deleted your first message as spam because the first paragraph started like hundreds of other spam comments that assault this blog on a regular basis. And, spammers usually resubmit their spam comments several times in a row just to see if they can fool the spam filter. Your resubmissions seemed to follow the pattern, too.
However, this time, I took a chance and followed the link you provided (I don’t follow links provided by suspected spammers) and saw that it is, indeed, about a gun and that your comment is legit. Sorry for the confusion, but this blog is very popular and a real magnet for spam.
Wow! This is a beauty! It is very well made and shows a lot of care. This is no backwoods gun like I was thinking. This is a high-order squirrel rifle. What a lucky guy you are.
I can’t put an exact value on it, except to say it is very valuable. The finial atop the patchbox looks like a styalized horse, which is a popular American theme. I suppose it could also be a rooster.
The lock has the same heart engraving as is inlet into the cheekpiece on the left side of the rifle. I’m pretty sure the lock has not been converted from flint.
You have a gorgeous rifle! I will look in my references and see what they can tell us.
No worries – though I have to admit I was getting a little frustrated when I kept posting and my postings kept disappearing! I can only imagine the assaults you have to fend off daily. I’ll take it as a lesson learned.
Thanks B.B. for the comments. I’m not counting myself lucky yet as the gun is still in my dad’s possession and both my younger brother and I really want it! My dad’s comment was that we’ll have to Indian wrestle for it.
I would appreciate anything you could dig up on it.
Looks like a new riffle has been created.
Hey there BB. I don’t know if you’ll pick up on a thread this old, but thought I would give it a shot. We had a discussion on an old muzzeloader in my family. You had told me a little bit about it, but I’d like to know more. If you can add anything or know of an expert who could tell something from the pictures, I’d appreciate it. You can still see the pictures on Flickr under Texas Jack1 (note the space). I don’t currently have the gun itself but could probably get access to it if it would help someone learn more about it. I live in North Central Texas. Thanks! JW
I went to Flickr and searched. All that came up were family photos.
Thanks for the reply! I think you probably searched TexasJack1 rather than Texas Jack1. You have to put the space between the “Texas” and the “Jack1.” If you do that and click on the name you should be able to see the pictures of the gun. Let me know and thanks again!
p.s. I see you have to be able to add to post. Nice touch!