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Education / Training Webley Rebel multi-pump pneumatic: Part 1

Webley Rebel multi-pump pneumatic: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Webley Rebel air rifle Webley Rebel multi-pump pneumatic air rifle.

This report covers:

• History of the rifle
• Where is this rifle made?
• Description
• Blow-off valve
• Sights
• Trigger
• Feel of the rifle
• Some surprises

Today is a treat. If you’re new to airgunning and have fretted over all the wonderful vintage airguns you missed by coming into the hobby too late — today is for you. Because, today, there may still be a chance to get a fine “vintage” airgun. I know I’m a little to the party since this gun has been around a couple years, but I don’t want to let anymore time pass without a look.

History of the rifle
This report says we are looking at the Webley Rebel multi-pump pneumatic, and that’s the name on both the gun and the box. But there’s lot more to it than just that. This multi-pump looks (to me) like a Sharp Innova, which was designed and built in Japan in the 1970s, when Robert Beeman was in his heyday and I was still in the Army. The Innova is a classic multi-pump, and a kid sister to the larger, more expensive Sharp Ace. I’ve owned several of both models, including one UK-spec Ace that had a pressure-release valve on the reservoir to keep the shooter from exceeding 12 foot-pounds.

Japan apparently had some political difficulties making airguns in their country in the late ’90s. I found that odd, because they didn’t seem to have any difficulty making firearms, which they still do today. But airguns were small potatoes and, for whatever reason, the Sharp company moved to Indonesia. I also tested an Indonesian Innova for The Airgun Letter and found it was made with inferior seals that couldn’t stand up to the rifle’s ability to generate power. Because of this, the Indonesian Innova was far less powerful than the Japanese one, and U.S. sales sort of petered out.

Don’t get this gun confused with the Cannon — another Asian multi-pump that sort of takes after a vintage Benjamin. Sort of. This is an Innova (in my mind) and definitely has a style all its own.

Years later, I heard through the grapevine that the company making the Innova may have moved to China. But the rifle wasn’t being sold in the U.S., and I didn’t keep track of it.

Then, this Webley showed up. I spotted it as an Innova right away, but what was under the hood? Have the seal issues been corrected? The Innova was also very accurate, so I’m curious about that, as well. Pyramyd Air’s description says the velocity of the .177-caliber Webley Rebel I’m testing is 963 f.p.s. If that’s true, this gun is about where the Japanese Innova was — power-wise. If it’s really that powerful, and if it’s also accurate, this is an airgun to get. It would be like finding a Sheridan Supergrade for $130.

Where is this rifle made?
There’s no marking either on the rifle or the box that indicates the country of origin. We’re looking into that right now, but I think it’s safe to assume it’
s being made in Asia since the included inspector’s sheet lists the inspector’s name in oriental characters.

That’s enough of the background, let’s now look at the rifle that’s before us. This Webley Rebel is a .177-caliber multi-pump pneumatic. The serial number of the rifle I’m testing is A2150067. The owner’s manual says it can be pumped up to 8 times per shot, and that pumping more will not increase velocity. That seems odd, because the rifle is equipped with a blow-off valve, rather than the more conventional striker-fired knock-open valve. The blow-off type of valve was invented by Crosman back in the 1950s to end the problems of valve lock. With striker-fired valves, it’s possible to pump so much air into the reservoir that the striker cannot force the valve to open at all. When that happens, the gun stops working.

Blow-off valve
The Crosman 130 pistol and 140 rifle had valves that were held shut by the trigger. Pulling the trigger allowed these valves to blow open (open violently, like champaign corks), and it was theoretically impossible to over-pump one of these airguns. I say “theoretically” because this kind of valve has a softer valve face, and too much air pressure will force or extrude it through the valve hole. So you can, in fact, over-pump one of these guns. I’m always fascinated by stories I hear from owners of these guns that they pump them up 20 times and they crack like a .22. Sure they do — right up to the moment when they don’t anymore.

Also, the triggers on guns with this kind of valve typically get harder to pull as the air pressure in the reservoir increases. More power equals a stiffer trigger. That will be something I’ll look at in this test, because I already see indications that this rifle may have solved that problem to a certain extent.

The Rebel is 35.50 inches long and weighs 5.50 lbs. The barrel is 20.75 inches long, which is a good length for a pneumatic. And the length of pull measures 13.50 inches, so it will fit most adults and older youths.

The stock and forearm, which serves as the pump handle, are black synthetic material. The pistol grip and the forearm have panels of raised dots on either side for better purchase. Edith and I debated about the butt plate. She calls it plastic, but I detect a coat of non-slippery rubber around the entire thing. It is shiny like plastic, though. (Note from Edith–I changed Pyramyd Air’s product specs to reflect that it’s plastic until I hear from Webley that it really is rubber. If it’s really rubber, then buyers will be pleasantly surprised when they get the gun. If it’s plastic and people expect rubber, that’s bad.)

Webley Rebel air rifle pump handle open The Rebel pump handle opens just past 90 degrees. Not quite all the way open here.

The receiver is triangular-shaped and plastic. I recall that the Japanese Innova receiver was also plastic, but it has been a long time since I’ve seen one. There are 11mm grooves atop the flat-topped receiver for scope mounts.

The rifle comes with open sights. Both front and rear are, unfortunately, fiberopotic and just looking through them tells me there will be an aiming problem. The rear green dots overpower the rear notch, so I can’t tell where the front post is in relation to the notch. I’ll give them a try at 10 meters; but unless I’m bowled over by the results, I’ll also try the rifle with an optical sight — I’m thinking a dot sight.

Webley Rebel air rifle front sight
Front sight is fiberoptic. Those two ears will protect the fiberoptic tube from damage, which is a real advantage. Good design!

Webley Rebel air rifle rear sight
The rear sight fiberoptics are very bright. Time will tell what this does to aiming precision.

The non-adjustable trigger is single-stage, but creepy. I’ve shot the rifle a few times…and, as I said, the trigger effort does increase as the pressure increases, but it doesn’t seem as bad as the triggers on the Japanese Innovas I remember. It seems very reasonable. Of course, I’ll measure it for you in the velocity test.

The safety is manual — hoo-ray! I love it when the designer lets the shooter be in full control of the gun.

To open the bolt for loading, a lever located at the right rear of the receiver is pushed down. The bolt springs backwards for loading. The pellet trough appears to be very short and will limit the length of pellets you can load, but it isn’t as short as it looks. After loading a pellet into the trough, push the bolt forward to lock it.

Webley Rebel air rifle bolt lever
Press the bolt lever down and the bolt will spring open

Webley Rebel air rifle bolt open
like this.

The pellet trough looks small at first, so I tried loading a large .177-caliber pellet. The H&N Baracuda Match domed pellet fits easily with plenty of room to spare. The trough is easy to load, even when a scope is mounted. There are no steps in the way to flip the pellets, so they roll right in.

Webley Rebel air rifle pellet trough with pellet
Though the pellet trough appears short, it fits long pellets. That’s an H&N Baracuda pellet with plenty of room to spare.

The rifle can be pumped before the bolt is opened. Pumping actually cocks this type of action, so the bolt is only for loading. Once there’s a pump of air in the gun, it’s ready to fire.

Pumping effort increases with each pump stroke. You can really feel the pressure building up in the reservoir with each new stroke. But here’s something veteran multi-pump shooters will find interesting — not much pressurized air remains outside the reservoir, forcing the pump arm back open. That’s so common on most multi-pumps, but it doesn’t happen so much with this one. The pump head must be adjusted very well on the rifle I’m testing, because it seems to force all the compressed air into the reservoir. Nearly all the pressurized air goes into the rifle! That means you get more power for your pumping effort. I wish my tired old Sheridan Blue Streak did as well!

Feel of the rifle
The Rebel feels compact and just right in my hands. It’s certainly not too long, and the cross-section of the pistol grip and forearm are wide enough to fill your hands without being too large. The weight also feels right. I find myself hoping it will be a tackdriver.

The Indonesian version was stocked in wood and looked good; but when pumped and fired, everything was too vague. The power was off and you could tell that just by shooting it. And the trigger was mushy. Accuracy wasn’t where the Japanese Innova had been, either.

Some surprises
I didn’t expect this rifle to be as nice as it turned out to be. It feels great and looks great, too. Compared to what I remember about the Indonesian Innova, the Rebel feels sharp and crisp. And the trigger doesn’t get that heavy on full power. The sights aren’t especially helpful, but let me shoot the rifle before we close the book on them. Wouldn’t it be nice if the Sharp Innova has been reincarnated?

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

83 thoughts on “Webley Rebel multi-pump pneumatic: Part 1”

  1. I have looked at getting one of these many times then I dont for some reason.

    Maybe this gun will turn out like the Hatsan QE pcp that I got. I was watching them. Then after BB started reviewing it I new it would be a good one. And it has at that.

    Is 8 pumps sufficient for these like how the Benji pumpers are?

  2. Wow, you must be reading my mind BB. I’ve been hoping you’d test this gun for a while. You are right in the middle of testing another multi pump, and now this one. I am a big fan of this type of air gun.

    Looking forward to the accuracy and velocity tests.

  3. The front of the barrel appears to have a plastic cap. Is there a thread under that cap as a provision for a moderator? Looks like a re-incarnated Crosman 1400 in metal and plastic.

  4. Hi Gang!

    B.B….thank you for all your wonderful reviews, insight, and shared knowledge — I really enjoy learning from you and everyone else out there with so much more knowledge & experience than I have. I truly hope to perhaps meet you at the upcoming Pyramyd Cup! That would be awesome! I was wondering if you’d finally ever do a review of this fine rifle. You’re right, that sure does look like a Sharp Innova when I looked that up online…fascinating. It does seem to be a desigh all its own. There’s also a good review of this rifle in the the UK’s Airgunner Magazine.

    I’d make a suggestion to anyone looking for a powerful AND accurate multipump, short of a Benji 397, to look no further. This multipump is the real deal. I own about 30+ air rifles (several vintage) of all powerplants and about 60+ pistols (many vintage) and of all powerplants, and this is my favorite multipump after about 1 year’s use. My next new multi-pump purchase will be a Benji 397 simply because of it’s reputation, but I’d urge anyone interested in the Webley Rebel to buy while you can before they someday disappear.

    This rifle as described above is extremely accurate (at least) at 10yd — a real tackdriver — and that’s just using el cheapo Crosman Premium 7.4gr wadcutters from a milk carton. I have many other types, brands, and weights of other pellets but almost always go back to these for .177 target shooting most of the time (and for cost reduction). It’s solid but lightweight though it can give you a workout if you apply the maximum pumps for very long. It has absolutely zero recoil, but is a bit louder than many multipumps probably due to its power. Generally I use it in my basement for 10m shooting and 3-4 pumps suffice, but it surely packs a wallop with 7-8 pumps! Like all the other multi-pumps I have, I store it with at least one pump and have never had any problems with this one. I’ve only used the open sights thus far for my 58 y.o. eyes, but perhaps a red dot might be fun as well. I can’t even fathom the accuracy with a decent AO scope on it, but will eventually try it. I also added a slip-on foam extension butt pad on the end just to extend the length a bit.

    The only cons I’ve run across with this rifle are:

    1. the dotted gripping on the pump handle are a bit rough on the hands after awhile, but it sure does give you a sure grip. Maybe my hands are just too soft!
    2. loading pellets (at least the Crosman wadcutters) seems to be tricky holding the rifle horizontally — the loading bolt doesn’t seem to want to push in all the way. I’ve just learned that the workaround to avoid frustration is to insert the pellet then tip the rifle down and give the rifle a shake or two to “seat” the pellet, then push the bolt forward — works every time.

    Other than that, I’d highly recommend this rifle for either a young adult or a regular adult,

    Safe shooting!

  5. BB
    Im glad to know that the correct term for this rifle and my old 1400 and 140 are Blow off valve guns as I have always referred to mine as a self cocker since when fired it automatically closes the valve chamber hence the term self cocker. I imagined that this type of valve system would be unacceptable in todays myriad of safety concerns and government regulations, but glad to see it is not.

    I am eagerly waiting to see what its power and accuracy results will be as it reminds me of my old 1400.
    I know you talked about the results of people over pumping a blow off valve style gun like my old 1400, I have modified my valve to hold a little larger volume of air in it than stock and also installed the lightest spring that would close the blow open valve and hammer after firing so to allow for the lightest trigger pull as possible. You are correct in that the higher number of pumps the more effort is required to pull the trigger, I have pumped mine as high as 25 pumps just to see what it would shoot at and it was just under 1000 fps. The effort required to pump it 25 times is extremely tiring and I agree is not good on the gun and as a general rule don’t go over 15 pumps max and that is only because I have increased the valve volume so that it is just slightly more powerful than the stock ten pumps recommended by crosman. I am eventually going to put my old valve back in as the little gain that I got was not worth the extra effort required to pump to 15 times.

    The best mine did before any mods was right at 800 fps in 22 cal and with the mods at 15 pumps it is about 30 fps faster so it was not enough gain to warrant the extra work to pump it 5 more times. The 24 inch disco barrel and new steel breech has made it more accurate and allows for mounting of a scope easier now so that part upgrade was worth it.

    I am considering this new pumper as it looks very good and is very light which for me is a good thing with my arthritis and strength in my hands.

    I can’t wait for the next part 2 on this gun.


      • Mel,
        Is there a way to reset it or must it be replaced? I guess velocity won out over power again. Why no .22? If it’s that powerful I’m sure someone has put a.25 on it. I read up on one modified with a metal breech(been a while so have no recollection of finer details)
        Pumping was,at one time, my bread & butter and there’s a lot of intrigue about a gun that “can’t be overpumped”.I’ve considered the steroid modifications on my Benji’s but the 392 PA would take a lot of replacement parts and it may affect the collector value of my 3120.
        So I’ve been keeping an eye on this and the older Crosmans with this type of valve design.
        Can’t say I’ve learned a whole lot so far other than it looks like they all require some modification to be reliable, user friendly And accurate. Is this one different?


          • Good Deal! I was trying to get a good look at the badging on PA’s model. Other than the Webley Rebel logo all I could make out was FAC so I assume they’re also meant for the Canadian market as well as UK, only requiring a Firearms Certificate.
            Any hint of Norconia on this version?

            • In Germany, it is sold by Norconia as the model P1. If you like, you can read a German review here: http://www.norconia.de/w/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/P1-Artikel-DWJ.jpg

              I don’t want to interfere with BB’s review in any way, but so far, we Germans have the following experience:

              1) Very good accuracy, but rather poor trigger
              2)Problems with leaky seals and plastic parts breaking are rather common
              3) Good price, and the valve makes it more powerful than other multi-pump pneumatics (where legal)
              4) The small loading port is a bit annoying

              • LOL! Of course you guys think it has a poor trigger! Anything less than a Rekord is junk in comparison!

                I had a FWB601 for a while and reight now I have two FWB300s and I am seriously considering an HW35E for a sporter. I have to say that you guys know what a good trigger should be.

      • Me
        That is the one thing I don’t care for in this gun as I would prefer that it allow me to be the be the judge of the pressure and blow off by not exceeding the recommended pumps. Call me extremist or radical but I do not need any company or government to protect me from myself or try to regulate what I do or how I live my life. It is my life to do with as I please and as long as it does not hurt or affect anyone else then it should be my problem not theirs, but it would not keep me from buying the gun as I sure if I see the need I can disable the blow off valve myself and make work the way I want it to. I am just old Skool in that I can make my own decisions when it come to what I use and do and how I use it or what I do with it.

        My old 1400 does not have any pressure release valve of any sorts to release excess pressure from over pumping and I have owned it for 45 years with no issues or accidents so I don’t see the need for one now, but that is just me and my stubborn old skool attitude.


        • Actually, the Crosman 1400 has a mechanism against over pressure as well. There is a bit of dead space in between the check valve and the pump piston. Your maximal pressure is that of one full pump stroke’s volume, compressed in the dead space. You asmyptotically get closer to that maximum with each stroke. Most multi-pump pneumatics use this simple system, though it is less efficient than a separate check valve.

          In other words: There is not much difference between pumping your gun 20 times or 500 times. Pressure will remain virtually the same.

          • Me
            My 1400s piston touches the front of the valve when the pump arm is closed so I do not understand what you are meaning by dead space unless it is the little volume that is occupied by the orifice at the front of the valve to where the check valve is . I have also changed the check valve spring to a lighter spring so that it opens with less pressure from the piston stroke and uses the pressure inside the valve chamber to maintain the seal to the front of the valve seat so I do not believe mine is functional anymore unless I am missing something in your explanation.


          • Me
            Also on my 2289 and my grandsons 760 I have modified the piston and valve into flat tops and they are adjusted so that the piston comes completely in contact with the valve when closed and that it is what holds the pump lever closed so they increase in power with every pump stroke regardless if it is 10 or 20 pumps. The valve springs and hammer springs have been replaced so that the guns will not pump up unless the hammer is cocked first as the hammer hold the poppet valve open off its seat until cocked.

            So I disagree with you on my 2289 and 760, but I still need more clarification on the 1400 as I believe it does not have any over pressure system like you are stating that it does.


              • Me
                The pump cup on my 1400 is a hard nylon type material so it does not compress at all and the pistons in the 2289 and 760 have double O-rings not pump cups so there is no compression of a rubber cup in them either so I believe that for every pump stroke the pressure in the valve is increased proportionally to the volume of the piston chamber versus stroke length and that there is no point that the pressure does not increase some with each pump stroke. If there was you would be able to feel it in the pump arm as the resistance to pumping would not continue to increase with each stroke of the pump. All my pump guns have yet to reach a point in pumping them that the resistance does not continue to increase with each stroke even in the few times I have pumped my 1400 to 25 pumps because I can tell you that the last ten pumps ( number 16 to 25 ) are very difficult and tiring as well as putting way more wear and pressure on the pump linkage than it was designed to handle. My concern in pumping it that many times is not the valve or piston being damaged but rather the pump linkage itself and that is why I have only done it a couple times to see just what the gun can do and it does show a fps gain with every pump up to the 25 pumps that I have taken it . My 2289 and 760 have been pumped to 20 times and shoot at 900 fps at that pump amount but it is just as hard on them even though the pump arm length and distance is half of what the 1400s is so I don’t do it often but they do increase in pressure with every pump stroke. I do believe that there would be a point that there would be no more gain but I believe that would occur when you are no longer able to overcome the pressure with the leverage of the pump arm and would physically not be able to pump it at that point.


                • This may be possible. We can be sure the gun won’t explode before it becomes either un-pumpable by human means, or maybe some pressure relieve kicks in. Some guns use rubber cups or O-Rings that deliberately falter and fail when a critical pressure is reached. I’m sure many kids tried to pump their guns up as hard as possible, and Crosman had to devise some way to prevent them from exploding their guns.

                  • Me
                    I never went above 15 pumps as kid with my 1400 and it has held up for 45 years so they made them very good back then and as I said in an earlier response I have had it since new in 68 and pulled it out of the closet about a year ago without it having been pumped 1 or 2 times before sitting for 20 years and only oiled it up and it shot as good as new other than the barrels rifling being worn away from the likely 100,000 pellets that it had shot through it in the 10 or so years that it was used from age 8 to 18 or so.

                    I would like to know if the safety blow off valve on this Webley can be defeated easily or not as I would buy it if it was possible to do so, but if it is not then it is a deal breaker for me as I said I do not need anyone to protect me from myself.


                    • Buldawg,

                      the safety valve is said to be easily modified – either by blocking the central hole towards the valve, or by installation of a stronger spring behind the valve head. However, this gun is not your good old 1400, and I would not trust it to handle pressures it was not made for.

                  • ME
                    I likely would not go over 10 or 12 pumps but the plastic breech/receiver is most likely the weak link in the gun any way.

                    I will wait to see how it shoots to make the final decision.

                    Thanks for the info on it.


                    • I know of aluminum receivers as aftermarket options, and also of metal triggers and front sleeves. They are still sold in Asian countries, but maybe you are lucky and find one in the USA.

  6. This could be interesting. When I bought my first air rifle, I wimbled between a 397 and a Gamo CFX. The CFX won and I am glad, but I still have a strong urge to give a multi-pump a try.

    I wonder what kind of valve a FWB601 has?

      • That may be why the Izzy is easily converted to a multi-pump. I have thought about converting a FWB to multi-pump. It sounds like I would have to at the very least change the hammer spring to make the FWB work.

        • The FWB already operates at a pretty high pressure. I doubt you could make it a multi pumper by simply inserting a check valve, and would need to fiddle with the valve volume as well.

  7. I had a old Crosman 140 in the past. I didn’t like the blow off trigger so it went down the road. This one as reported seems better. Oh…..once again fiber optic sights. Someone must like them.


  8. Tom,

    I’m glad to see this report. I’ve been very curious about this air rifle ever since it came out. The efficient pump-head is promising. And I have considered this rifle’s forearm — where the butt-end of the forearm comes about as close to the trigger guard as it can — as a simple leverage-maximizing design technique that virtually all multi-pumpers fail to take advantage of. Maybe this gun will take a lot of effort to pump 8 times, but if it does, it won’t likely be due to a design flaw. it will be because it is compressing so much power-generating air.

    It would be VERY nice if this rifle ends up being especially accurate., especially given how affordable it is.

    Quick question: is the muzzle threaded under that protector?


  9. OK, it looks like Norconia is having these made in China, at least the UK guns. Very reassuring!
    That allows me to breathe a Little easier. Can’t wait to see how it turned out!
    If there are threads under that plastic they should be metric X1.25 and they may have Loctited it on for US import.
    This is the same guy who helped me get back outta the QB-36 and there’s a lot of big differences between the Norconia model he was working on and my Shanghai Chinese model

  10. B.B., I believe fiber optic sights can be defeated easily. One could paint the ends “dots” black, or the whole tube so light could not be transmitted. Or for a temp. fix, just try a little black electrical tape? Now for the power (FPS) they promise, I’m interested in what you come up with. The Rebel claims 963 fps in 177 cal, yet they claim 690 in 22 cal. Assuming it is like most airguns, it is the same power plant, just a different cal. Comparing that to the Benjamin 397 (177) & 392 (22) which also has the same power plant, just different cals, the 397 in .177 gets 800 fps and the 392 in .22 gets 685 fps. Something somewhere doesn’t add up. Seeing how the 22’s are only 5 fps apart, I don’t see how the .177’s are 163 fps different? Hmmm, devil in the details? Bradly

  11. I have a prediction about where this rifle is made. If it’s not made in Japan and comes with oriental characters that don’t look obviously different from our general perception of such characters, then it’s got to be China. They are the 800 pound gorilla in Asia. And I happen to know that the Thai writing system is distinctly different from Chinese and Japanese characters, so if there was some other script you would notice even without being able to read Chinese.

    I suspect the mysterious problem of Japanese manufacture has to do with the fact that you might actually be able to own this rifle under their laws which makes it more of a danger than something that is more powerful like a firearm that you basically cannot own. If in fact, you cannot own pellet guns either and are really restricted to airsoft maybe the pellet guns are close enough to cause worries.

    On the subject of sights, I have a question that popped up unexpectedly. There I was last night, licking my chops at my first session with my B30 in my new place. I attached my Leapers 4X scope shouldered the rifle at my 5 yard target and saw…almost nothing. The image was so cloudy that I could hardly make out the target. The way the rifle was stored and with the lens caps on the scope there is virtually no chance anything could have stained the lenses. Still, I wiped them down with eyeglass cleaning solution and tried again. No difference. The reticle is very clear. But aiming at my brightly colored Roman legionary action figure from across the room, I can hardly make out anything. It’s like I’m looking through a fog. I recall now that the inside of modern scopes is full of gas. Could something have happened to the gas inside the scope? Now that I think about it, this problem may have been going on for awhile. For some time, I had noticed that it was harder to see through this scope than by Bug Buster, but I attributed this to my very short shooting distance combined with the lack of short range focusing power of the Bug Buster. And the lighting at the last place was not the best. But the scope is completely unusable now.

    Anyone know what is going on here? And doesn’t Leapers have a lifetime guarantee of their equipment?


    • Even scopes with parallax adjustment tend to bottom out around 7-10 yards.

      Before you blame the scope, you should probably aim it at something 50-100 yards away (if you need to avoid terrorizing the neighbors, take it off the rifle first).

      Most decent scopes are filled with dry nitrogen, so one does not get condensation inside the optics when taking them out into the cold.

      Since the reticle is clear, we can assume no fogging between the reticle and eyepiece lens… And since the inner tube is not sealed, that implies it shares the same air as the outer tube and objective lens.

      You didn’t specify the model of scope (as I recall, Leapers has three levels of scopes, and multiple variations within each level [interesting, I’m not seeing the older levels, and all scopes are now under the UTG name — strange that they’d drop the leaping stag {which seems more hunting oriented} for that forked spearhead of UTG {rather military}]:

      UTG 4X32 1″ Compact CQB Scope, 36-color Mil-dot, QD Rings — 100yard parallax
      UTG 4X32 1″ BugBuster Scope, AO, 36-color Mil-dot, QD Rings — adjustable down to 3 yards
      UTG 4X32 1″ Crossbow Scope, Pro 5-Step RGB Reticle, QD Rings — 50yard parallax
      UTG 4X32 1″ Hunter Scope, AO, Mil-dot, Airgun Rings — adjustable to 5 yards
      UTG 4X32 1″ Hunter Scope, Mil-dot, Airgun Rings, Adj@35 Yds — not adjustable, preset to 35 yards
      UTG 4X32 1″ Hunter Scope, Mil-dot, QD Rings, Adj@100 Yds — not adjustable

    • Aim the scope at a distant object (50 yds or further away). Is it still cloudy? If not, you got a parallax problem, which is no big surprise when shooting at 5yds. Does your scope have an adjustable objective?

  12. I had a Japanese Innova back when I was in short trousers, they were restricted to four pumps here in the UK, though you could pump it further to no avail…..of course the first thing we did was jigger the relief valve so it wouldn’t release…..however getting more than five pumps in was a bit of a challenge, and eight would have required Charles Atlas so there must have been some differences in stroke, certainly an almost doable six pumps would send a steel/ptfe 22 Prometheus pellet through a garage door…..um, and damage the neighbours car…..don’t ask me how I know this…I wasn’t there, and it wasn’t me

  13. B.B.,
    I share your concern about the rear fiber optic sights-I have the same problem with my P17. I think that they are set too far apart making accuracy with open sights more difficult.
    I find the features like the loading port and pop open bolt quite an improvement over my old 760. I this one turns out to be accurate it will be a toss up between the Umarex multi pump and this one.


  14. The rear green dots overpower the rear notch,

    Where did that convention ever come from, anyway?

    Put dots in the color the eye is most sensitive to right up next to the eye, and put a dot in the color the eye is least sensitive way up front.

    Wonder what it would cost to have someone make up a set of inserts that puts the green way up front, and the red on the rear sight — then run a study of random users swapping between the two configurations (or, for completeness, R/R, R/G, G/G, G/R).

    After all, a green dot up front may be a close simile for the old gold bead some sights used to be fitted with.

  15. Me
    Is it Me or Mel I cannot tell for sure and if it is Mel please accept my apologies for using Me as the mane I have been replying to.

    Do you have any links to the Asian companies that sell those parts as I know more than just me on this blog would be interested in them if you know of any. it is good that there may be a aftermarket source for better parts as I just don’t understand the logic in making the pressure and firing portions of any air gun out of plastic. it just like the 13xx and 22xx models of crosman that come with a plastic breech, I know it keeps the cost down but it is just not proper to do so.


  16. Mel
    Thanks for the links. The one from Indonesia is going to be a problem as I have no idea what it says or which part I would need to order. But at least we have them here for anyone who can read Indonesian.


      • Kevion
        I don’t use google nor would I have a clue as to how to use google translator and have no interest in learning how because google is worse than big brother in the fact that they keep everything you search and store it forever so call me paranoid but I just don’t believe that my internet use should be tracked much less kept as a record forever.

        I most likely would not buy from there either although I have made purchases from China, Hong Kong and Poland with out issues.


        • Buldawg,

          I stopped using google search long ago. I use ixquick.com. They don’t track you. I don’t have anything to hide, but I don’t like the idea of someone watching my every step. The good thing about ixquick.com (and it’s sister site, startpage.com, which uses google search info but doesn’t track you) is that you can also use their proxy links. Google used to have proxy links, but they dumped them some time ago.

          A proxy link allows you to view sites that may be banned by your internet provider. In fact, if you read the blog via a computer or network that blocks all sites dealing with guns, then you can reach those blocked sites by searching for the site you want on ixquick.com, and then clicking on the PROXY link for that site. This allows you to bypass the blocking for reading and commenting.


          • Edith
            I to have nothing to hide and also do not like someone watching my every step either much less storing it forever. I use duckduckgo .com as my internet search engine as they delete your searches as soon as you close out of the browser and they do hot have any restriction on what you search for in any way what so ever. I only use my home pc as I do not work so I am in control of what my PC allows.

            My internet provider has no bans that I found in the 14 years that I have been using them so that is not an issue either. do you know if the search engine you use has a means to translate like what Kevin was suggesting in google or how I could tell if mine has that option as I would like to be able to look at the site for parts for the Webley but am unsure on how to use any type of translation software.


                • Edith
                  I got it to work some what in that some of the words were in English, but not all and it does not give currency exchange prices so I could not have any idea of what the actual dollar cost for the aluminum parts are. I do thank you for the help in being able to learn how to use the translate functions so now I am more comfortable and adventurous at the same time.

                  The Webley will have to wait for awhile as I just got me a shoebox from tom at Technicor so I can fill my own bottles and guns and that has depleted my fun money until I can sell more unused toys to get more toys that I will and can use.


              • Edith
                I am adventurous I just like to have some idea of what I am doing when being adventurous and when it comes to a PC I am usually just smart enough to get myself into trouble and not be able to get out of it. When it comes to mechanical, electrical and outdoor type of adventure I will throw all caution to the wind because I trust my capabilities and experience in those areas, but I am just a scared little boy when it come to the big world wide web.

                Thank you for the link as I have it opened up and will copy and paste the link Kevin gave me for the Webley parts from Indonesia and see what happens. See I am getting adventurous now I just need a little push now and then.

                Thanks Buldawg

          • Edith

            I missed this comment on the first go-round but came back to Part I for a refresher after reading part 2 of the Webley/Sharp review. Thank you for this info. I will try it out the next couple of weeks and see how it does!

            Fred DPRoNJ

  17. Thanks for reviewing this rifle as I have been curious about it. I like multi pump rifles and apparently so do a lot of other people, look at how many replies on the first day.
    I consider my Benjamin 392 hard to pump, Crosman 2100 fairly easy and Daisy 880 easy. Which is this Webly close to in pumping? Thanks. I will enjoy part two and three if there is three.

  18. Hi BB,Do you think if you put a regular scope on this rifle It would be hard to pump it to the max.8 pumps like the Benjamin 397/392?Also ,do you think an extended cheek-piece would be needed?-Tin Can Man-

  19. After looking at the schematic and ten back at the pictures I found a circlip on the hinge pin, which is the attention to detail I was looking for in order to feel confident in say I believe this gun is a Norconia, albeit manufactured and shipped from China it appears to be German engineered and somewhat built to their specs. But I’m with Buldawg. Why slap a chunk of plastic in such crucial components as the breech,muzzle,front and rear sights? SMH!

  20. Hey guys, just a little update for the blaze barrel work… somebody didn’t push a pellet through after swirling the crown and just visual affirmed, well wouldn’t you know? The crown was a brick wall, stopped dead with a lip. So I cut 4″ off, at a good spot, ground the flat so the front sight could go back on, did a real crown job, and bingo! 6 different brands of pellet are hitting within an inch at 20 yards, _A, and cracking the barrier, B, including 10.5gr cps! The best group is 4 in one hole, one out for 3/8ths”, the average for 12 groups, 2 five shot for each pellet, was .96″. Try out a few more good pellets and I will finally get some good long distance groups. The shorter barrel (I love cutting em and by god I’ve gotten good at it!) Is perfect length and mix of rigidity while still easy to cock, it locks up and just sounds amazing. Anybody cutting springer barrels, much testing has told me that 14.25 to 15 or 16 max is where you want to be. Can’t believe I didn’t verify that crown, I knew something was wrong.

    • By the way, insider tip, an angle clamp for glueing trim corners together makes the “ghetto” hacksaw cut square without question, clamp one side on the barrel nice and tight, close the otherside so the blade just moves, make sure the things set to 90* and its hard to screw it up.

  21. I’ll be keeping an eye on this gun. I’d like a fairly decent pumper. So far all I have is some very cheesy crosmans I can’t beg somebody to take off my hands. I want quality and I’m willing to pay to have quality. I also just got the extreme pleasure of yelling at a chinese company about their very poor quality on a product I had to pull completely apart and totally rebuild.

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