by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Diana’s 34P breakbarrel is a tremendous value in a spring-piston air rifle.
This report covers:
• Meet my little friend
• Is it Diana or RWS?
• The rifle
• Trigger
• Air Venturi Pro Guide
• 34P with Air Venturi Pro Guide installed
Meet my little friend
Meet my little friend, the Diana RWS 34P breakbarrel air rifle. I own lots of airguns, but this one has been on loan from Pyramyd AIR for several years for multiple purposes. For starters, this is the very rifle that was used to develop the UTG Droop-Compensating scope base. I don’t mean one like it — this is the actual rifle I used! So, when I tell people that a new Diana 34P can hit the target as much as 21 inches below the aim point at 20 yards when the scope is level, this rifle was used to determine that.
This is also one of the rifles that was used to test the now-obsolete Air Venturi Pro-Guide spring kit. And this rifle is the one that was used to compare the Diana T05 trigger to the T06 trigger. So, it’s been used for a lot of behind-the-scenes testing for this blog.
Today, I want to re-introduce the rifle to you because I’m about to start using it as a test instrument. I have a lot of reasons for doing this. First, how many times have I said that something was just as good as a Diana 34, or that the Diana 34 is the standard in its price range? Lots of times, I’m sure. But how many of our newer readers know how good that is? It’s time we looked at the standard once again.
Next, there are rifles like Ruger’s Air Hawk that people say are copies of the Diana RWS 34. Are they really that close? In all respects? We shall see. I still owe you a 25-yard test of the Air Hawk.
And also, there are other tests I want to do. Like testing new pellets. I can use my Beeman R8 to test pellets, and you veteran readers know it to be a real tackdriver, or I can use my TX200 Mark III. But I’ve done that a lot. Bring out a new pellet and I might say, “Let’s see how it does in a TX200!” Well, most pellets do well in a TX200. That’s just the way it is. But the Diana 34 is a more democratic air rifle — first because it’s a breakbarrel springer, but also because it’s still priced under $300. Heck, I can remember a time in the 1990s when they sold for $90 — and people complained they were too expensive even then!
Is it Diana or RWS?
Diana of Germany is the manufacturer of this rifle. RWS USA imports it into this country. So, it’s really a Diana rifle; but because so many people are used to calling it an RWS, we also include that name in the title. Outside the U.S., it’s probably better known as just a Diana, though RWS in Germany does export them to a number of other countries around the world.
The rifle is a breakbarrel springer in .177 caliber, and this one has the Air Venturi Pro Guide spring kit installed. I’ll tell you more about that a little later in this report.
The rifle
The rifle weighs 7.75 lbs. and is 46 inches long. It’s a big air rifle, but it doesn’t feel too large when you hold it. The “P” model comes with a black synthetic stock. While I usually prefer wood over synthetic, on this rifle I’ll take the synthetic. The wood they put on rifles in this price range is usually pretty plain, plus the synthetic is both stronger and more resistant to water. Also, this stock has sharp checkering diamonds that really help you hold the gun.
The cocking effort measures 32 lbs. on my bathroom scale. The stroke is smooth with no sudden build-up of effort. The breech has a ball-bearing detent that makes the barrel easy to break open but holds the breech tight during firing. Diana has used this type of breech for at least the past 75 years, and it’s a proven technology.
The detent is Diana’s famous ball bearing. The barrel opens and closes smoothly, yet remains closed when the rifle’s shot.
Unfortunately, when I tested the cocking effort years ago, I broke the front fiberoptic element that has only the protection of a sheet metal hood. That doesn’t matter to me, because whenever I shoot the rifle it’s scoped. Diana ships the rifle with the hood over the front sight, and I recommend you leave it on to protect the front element.
Leave the hood on the front sight to protect the fiberoptic tube.
Trigger
The T06 trigger that’s in the rifle is 2-stages with a long first stage (my preference) and a let-off of 1 lb., 5 oz. Stage 2 is a little indistinct on my test rifle, but it’s positive enough that the rifle remains under my control at all times. I don’t find the T06 trigger to be better or worse than the T05 trigger; because it has a metal blade, most shooters seem to prefer it.
When the rifle is cocked, the safety comes on automatically. The switch is located in the center of the end cap, making the 34 a 100 percent ambidextrous air rifle.
The safety comes on automatically when the rifle’s cocked.
Air Venturi Pro Guide
Okay, now I’ll tell you about the Air Venturi Pro Guide that’s installed in the rifle. I know you can no longer buy this kit, but it does show what a lightly tuned Diana 34 is capable of. You could get to the same point with other tunes, so you don’t have to feel that you can’t have the same thing. And the factory rifle is pretty close to this in power, though it does buzz a little.
The Air Venturi Pro Guide is not currently available, but it was a special mainspring and guides that smoothed the gun’s powerplant with a slight velocity increase. I installed a Pro Guide in the 34P in Part 5 of the Pro Guide report. The first 4 parts of that report were done on a Diana 48 sidelever, so only Part 5 refers to the 34P.
The Air Venturi Pro Guide kit consisted of a new mainspring, a rear spring guide that fit outside the mainspring (bottom in this picture) a new piston seal and top hat (front spring guide).
The front spring guide slips inside the stock piston. It fits inside the mainspring so tight that it can’t be easily removed. This takes all vibration from the gun but leaves the power.
With the Pro Guide in the gun, the firing behavior is solid and free from vibration. There’s just a solid “thunk” that connotes a tuned spring rifle.
34P with Air Venturi Pro Guide installed
The rifle last averaged 825 f.p.s. with H&N Baracudas, 936 f.p.s. with Crosman Premier lites and 1021 f.p.s. with RWS Hobbys. That was right after the Pro Guide was installed, and the rifle hasn’t been shot a lot since then. So I thought I’d test it with those pellets, again, just to see where it is today.
Today, the rifle averages 781 f.p.s. with H&N Baracudas, 943f.p.s. with Premier lites and 1023 f.p.s. with RWS Hobbys. There was a big velocity drop with the Baracudas, but an increase with the Premier lites. Baracuda pellets have changed many times in the past several years, so that result is suspect. I may have used the same pellet by name, but the size and weight might have changed. The Hobbys are within 1 f.p.s. of each other. I would say the rifle is shooting about where it was before, but it’s calmed down and settled into its long-term power band.
Now you’ve been introduced to my Diana 34P. When you see it in tests in the future, this is the rifle I’ll be shooting. We’ll look at accuracy next, and then I want to use this rifle to test several pellets for you.
Good Day!
Dug out a local copy of the Crosman 180/160 (bulk fill only) and rejuvenated it with some ATF (sorry Crosman Pelloil is not locally available) on loading with the CO2. Initially leaked very fiercely but now retains the charge. Works quite well now especially with the knowledge I’m soaking up in this blog.
My father recently bought a Hatsan M65 and also acquired a Williams FP aperture sight. I’m trying to securely mount the Williams peep sight along the 11mm scope grooves of this rifle. Should I mount it in front or behind the scope stop? We had initially mounted it without the sight abutting against the scope stop and it shoots itself loose after 20 shots, we had thought that the light weight of the sight would make it relatively immune to the recoil. Is there any advice you can give me on how to mount this securely?
Siraniko: Here’s what I did. If you can secure a piece of steel strapping that is used to band shipments securely about 6″ or so long, that is a good place to start. If you can get it longer all the better for future uses.
The first thing to do is to find the center of the approximately 1/2″ to 3/4″ strapping and put a hole in it dead center that the rear stop screw will pass through. The strapping I got is just about the width of the scope ramp on top.
Next measure the distance from the screw hole to the ideal placement of the Williams sight’s base chassis. That is the measurement you want to have secured. Mark the strapping at that point perpendicularly across the piece.
Your next and most critical work is to estimate the height of the base of the Williams sight to the top of its base. Mark that in a second line across the strapping. This will be the first of your cuts with a tin snips.
The second and third cuts are PARALLEL cuts to the sides of the strapping piece BUT between 1/4 to 5/15 inch IN from each side. The cuts you make will stop at the line you drew that is the length between the screw hole and the place where the Williams base chassis will sit. You will then bend ONLY THE TWO SHORT CUTS THAT ARE PARALLEL TO THE STRAPPING BUT STOP AT THE LENGTH LINE. You will bend the two short pieced UP. They are the stops for the chassis to rest against.
The wider middle part, between the two vertical stops you just made stays straight and slides UNDER the chassis. This prevents the jolt of the rifle from simply raising the strapping and curling it back. So, to recap, you will have a wide center piece under the Williams base (chassis) and two flanking upward tabs to keep it from sliding back (rearwards) down the scope rail. The strapping is, of course, secured via the hole and screw for the rear of the scope ramp.
The sight can move forward, but that does not seem to happen; it wants to come at you not walk away.
I took the strapping, after I ascertained that it was holding the Wiliams sight where I wanted it and was, itself set well in this position and role, and used my fine wheel on my bench grinder to round the rear of the strap (the screw end) and then touched up any sharp edges resultant from my snipping – but without grinding them down.
I then took some liquid bluing and addressed any strapping scratches and all the raw edges that I created by cutting and VERY, VERY light grinding. You could use sandpaper instead, of course! After the raw steel was blued, I used my Sheath/Barrier Oil and wiped it liberally down. When it dried, I put the strapping piece on the scope rail with the Stop Screw – at first lightly screwed down until I got the Williams peep based snugged up to the end with the middle tongue and the two side vertical stops (hitting he rear of the base, again, of course!! Then, I tightened up the base and the rear Stop Screw and put the sight top back on its base.
So far, just that slight bit of springy steel strapping has been enough to cancel ANY movement of the Williams Peep to the rear, AND I didn’t have to try and overtighten every clamping screw to the point that they stripped out. The bluing helped disguise the “cheapie” nature of the component and provided a finished look to the scope ramp replacing the coarse file look of the stock ramp.
If this seems cumbersome to you, let me assure you that writing this took a lot longer than DOING IT! The most time-consuming thing was finding the centerline of the strapping for the hole boring for the stop screw! The rest of the fiddling around was spent with a soft led pencil (or good fine tip marker) to get the length measurement from the stop screw to the sight base and to mark three more cuts: the cut for the additional length BEYOND the screw-to-chassis length to provide for the two side stops (or “ears?”) and the two cuts to the “bend line” which is the stop screw to chassis line.
If I had a way to do a picture to text, it would strike you as a VERY simple thing, as it is. I hope this helps you visualize what you are making. After you do one of these, it probably would only take you a couple of minutes to do it again, because it really is simple, BUT, most importantly, IT WORKS for the light weight of a Williams Peep. I don’t however think it might work well on a scope as the additional mass would probably be enough to buckle the strapping upward in the middle of its length? Maybe not, but I’m not going to try…
I love the direction of this, the airhawks are AMAZING guns for the price, great trigger I got anyway, looks identical to the still affordable German original here, far as I can tell function wise. Can’t wait to see what the grindstone to each reveals. By the by… 21 inches of off center at 20yards? Ouch, why is that acceptable? If a scope can’t be adjusted within the range of its capabilities why is the gun leaving the factory? An expensive German one even? How did that become just a nuance of the model?
Though this is in the mid range as far as cost goes for us on this side of the pond, in Germany this would be considered a cheap beginner’s air rifle. Plus what they would be shooting would be pretty wimpy in our minds.
RDNA,
That is one reason I posted this again. Even though I have tested this rifle before, many new readers like you haven’t seen it.
I complained to the Diana marketing VP about their breakbarrels all having droop, she said since the sights were both on the barrel Diana didn’t see any reason to change things. But a year later when they brought out the 350 Magnum, I noticed it had very little droop.
So I then worked with Leapers to develop the drooper base for all Diana rifles. About 5 years after that base came out, Diana changed the design of their rifles so the UTG drooper base no longer fit.
They ARE listening, but they don’t like what they are hearing. And they don’t like outsiders saying it.
B.B.
Is it possible they are doing this to steer customers to more expensive models?
Like car makers do by not letting you have heated seats on a base model?
StevenG,
ALL Dianas except the 350 Magnum droop. It isn’t a marketing ploy — it’s the way they make them.
B.B.
Is it some old German tradition to not use scopes, only irons? Lol but if Diana didn’t want a third party profiting from a part their guns needed, they should’ve made them.
So is the droop deliberate, or results it from mating the parts at the breech?
Mel,
Deliberate is a strong word. I don’t suppose Diana wanted to put the droop there, but they also weren’t very concerned that it was there. The design of the slanted breech does almost guarantee some droop, but other things like the boring of the barrel and the alignment of the scope base on the spring tube also contribute. Obviously on this particular rifle they all conspired to make the droop.
B.B.
You would think they would be open to suggestion.
Remember your report you just did.
“Why”
G’day BB
“It fits inside the mainspring so tight that it can’t be easily removed. This takes all vibration from the gun but leaves the power.”
If you machined a tight fitting collar in other rifles that are loose around the piston would that work the same?
Is it done in tune ups?
Cheers Bob
Bob,
That is the classic way tuners tighten up guns that buzz.
B.B.
Love my Diana! It’s the reason I got into ” real” air rifles. Any word on Crosman’s new Bullpup design yet?
Zack,
I don;t have any update on it. I expect to shoot it at the SHOT Show in January.
B.B.
I have been thinking about that gun. I wish there was some more info on it
What happened to “The Godfather of Airguns” in your description at the top of the blog?
Or should I ask. Its been missing for awhile now.
And like they say about pictures. If only this gun could talk. How in the world did you break the front sight testing the cocking pressure. You just did that awhile back. Maybe you could get a 2×4 and make some type of cut out in it to rest the barrel in it so it won’t touch the sight. Then take a sandpaper disc wit the sticky stuff on one side and put it on the bottom of the wood. Then you will have something to hold the barrel so it won’t slide and maybe take a chunk out of your leg or something. Your leg did heal up good I hope.
And 21″ at 20 yards is a heck of a droop. My Diana 54 Air King is right in the middle of the turret adjustments on my Hawke scope with the UTG droop mount. I do know for a fact what kind of games a scope can play when you get to far from center of the turret adjustments.
This should be a nice series of reports and I have a feeling there will be some interesting discussions.
GF1,
It was there to establish a record of use. But it didn’t have to remain there, so we took it off. It’s all part of trademarking a title.
B.B.
BB
I thought maybe something happened. I think you should but it back. Just my opinion.
Of all the places you should use the title it should be here on the blog.
It may render more search results for the blog, but since it has been used it may already do so.
Reb
And that is a good point also.
GF 1,
I’m with you on this!
Errol
Errol
I thought it was cool when it was there.
Hi B.B.
Lovely gun Sir. I always loved the sleek Diana designs. This one somehow looks great with the synthetic stock & it has quality written all over it. I’m very surprised at the level of droop at just 20 meters. Why is this peculiar to Diana break barrels & why can’t they correct it?
Errol
Errol,
They can correct it. Read what I said to RDNA, above.
B.B.
B.B.
Yeah, I read it Sir. True, they make top class airguns but this attitude is sheer arrogance. I’m amazed at the answer their VP gave you of all people. They have a 150 year history making airguns so they must think they know everything!. But its the people who shoot them that detect the flaws & should be given an ear for product improvement. Also, if they want us to use the open sights on their break barrels, why put a scope rail on them?
Errol
Errol
it reminds me of the issues that the FWB sporter BB reviewed recently that had the buzzing right out of the box. I know German guns are supposed to be known for their superior quality and design but this is the second gun that has had to me unacceptable issues in a brand new gun.
It tells me that they either don’t care as BB has eluded to or they just think that their reputations are good enough to carry them forward in a market that is producing many new and to much better researched and developed guns for the savvy consumer to pick from and I just do not see how they can expect to remain at the top of the podium if they continue to deliver products that are inferior to other companies products in my opinion.
Buldawg
Buldawg,
Well said Sir! Exactly my point. The way the Chinese are going they could put out guns as good or better than the European makes soon. Also when you look at makers like Hatsan,Gamo & Norica their guns are super accurate & don’t have droop problems. They are also tops in quality. By the way I will be stripping & tuning my friends Hatsan Striker soon. Thanks again for directing me to Airenlaces. Got me a GOOD diagram. Will let you know how it goes.
Errol
Errol
I wish the Germans would see the errors of their long standing production methods as we know that everything changes and as such so must the ways products are made.
Glad to be of help with the schematics and let me know how the build/tune turns out.
Buldawg
i would put it on a generation thing with family owned business one generation works hard to create and build a name for the business while those that inherit are only considering the bottom line
Triniair
You have made a very good point that I had not considered and it is very true because the youth of today do not have the same value as the generations before them and most likely are just as you put it looking only at the bottom line.
Very well said.
Buldawg
Diana now seems to be exporting a slightly upgraded line on there own without RWS. They have dropped the glowy thingy sights and are using real sights and the wood looks to be a higher grade.
You can also contact Diana direct and get any of their air rifles with fancy grade walnut stocks and custom checkering.
RWS was probably pulling a Beeman and having Diana make things to their specs and now Diana is starting to export a more German style.
RidgeRunner I love the look of the 52, beautiful dark wood and gloss, it will probably be my next conventional springer. Or a HW77…
I keep wimbling between Diana, Weihrauch and Air Arms. Right now I cannot afford any of them, so it is a moot point. Maybe I will be able to start the new year off right. I had hoped to go to the Hickory show, but at the moment I would be doing good to pay for the gas, not to mention buy anything.
RR
I am noit going to make the hickory show either as I just sprang for a shoebox and oil less compressor so I can fill my bottles when I want to and not have to wait for the my fire extinguisher buddy to get time to get it done. You could say it was my early Christmas present to myself.
The bank is empty for at least after the new year for me also. But I needed the shoebox bad so it will make shooting my pcps much easier as I can only pump by hand for so long before my hands give up and quit and then I can’t hold the guns to shoot them so it will be a big help.
buldawg
buldawg
I was wondering how long you could hold off saying something about your ShoeBox.
I know your gonna like it. 🙂
Gunfun
yea I was just able to get a chance to get on my pc to read the blog and saw where RR was not gone to make it top the NC show and thought I would let him know I was not going to make it either because we had talked about meeting up and hanging out together for awhile.
I wish it could happen but the shoebox was more of a needed item and the wife has to have that heart cath on the 20th so it was not really a good idea to be traveling the weekend before it is done because we don’t know what the doc will find and did not want to be out of town if something serious happened, he does not think it will need stents and said the stress test showed some narrowing of arteries so we hope he can just stretch them back out with out stents.
Buldawg
buldawg
Yes that probably wouldn’t be good to be on the road that’s for sure.
But that does help not having to pump up the guns all the time. I found that I would shoot for a longer amount of time after I got my ShoeBox
Gunfun
You are exactly right and that is why I got it so I can shoot more without the worry of running out of air and having to resort to pumping by hand as that is getting harder to do every day.
We have a very good relationship with our heart doc so we are very comfortable with what he says and does which makes a huge difference.
Buldawg
buldawg
Like anything. If you find somebody that is willing to spend time talking to you about something it is a good sign.
I have throughout time talked to people that made products for drag racing, RC airplanes and air guns. You can tell pretty quick which product to go with by the time they are willing to spend with you.
Its really pretty simple you can tell when they are passionate about what they do buy what they sound like. Its like they are a kid in a candy shop. They just want to keep talking about the situation or product and even design. The people that know what they are doing don’t worry about what the other person knows or finds out. They know what to do to get the results they need but are still smart enough to listen to suggestions.
You know real quick who to go with.
Gunfun
That is exactly right and stand true no matter what the business or service that is provided to you. I knew that right away with Tom at Technicor when I emailed him about the shoebox and he gave me a honest answer and did not hesitate to offer me the great deal on the returned unit he had instead of just telling me that there would not be a sales or that he had no discounts or refurbed units for sale.
To all out here Tom at Technicor that makes the shoebox compressors to fill tanks and PCP guns to high pressures told me monad of this week that his Freedom 8 compressor would be going on sale in the near future. he did not give any date but if any of you are interested I would visit his site to keep an eye out for the sale.
Buldawg
To all
The last message should have said Monday of this week not monad.
Buldawg
buldawg
Remember when we were talking about the ShoeBox and what I told you about Tom that makes the ShoeBox. I talked with him when I was making my decision on my fill devices for the pcp guns. He wasn’t trying to sell me his product but was very detailed about all aspects of fill devices and what to expect from them. Then told me about the different features of the pump and how everything was modular and could be rebuilt with out complete disassembly.
I tried to talk to some other manufacturers of pumps and all they would say is there is a description on the website about the product and a place to email questions.
Well that answered my question real quick. I could see where that was going to go if the thing broke down. And the dang things costed double if not triple of what the ShoeBox costed.
Gunfun
Yea I did not actually talk to Tom on the phone but his email response was in less than a hour of me sending him the email about the requested info on the first stage compressor and I could tell by his response that he was definitely one of those businessmen that makes a quality product and does not have to try and play up or over talk his product to sell it because his product speaks for itself.
I got the 2240 sighted in out back and it is a tack driver at 15 yards, I put out the 22 resettable targets and could go right down the line of lower targets and flip them up and then hit the resetting target over and over again without missing. I am very happy with it and now just have to decide if I want to touch it up in black or do the German panzer camo paint scheme we talked about in shades of blacks and greys, but the scope would not be painted at all as I do not want to chance damaging it.
I just got tracking number on first stage compressor and it will be here Wednesday of next week so I will be all set then to fill and enjoy my PCP guns a lot more.
Buldawg
buldawg
You got to that 2240 out to some farther distance’s. Like I said before that is a little sleeper gun. Your gonna like it. You did use the JSB 10.34’s I sent you right?
And yep I can’t bring myself to paint a Hawke scope either.
And good glad you got all your tracking number’s. Toil be in business before you know it.
Suppose to be you will be in business.
Gunfun
I was just using BBs method of sighting in at close ranges to make sure that the gun will be on paper at the longer ranges and it was good that I did because it was about 15 inches low starting out and if I had just started sighting at 50 yards from the beginning I would have been so far off target that I would have had to start at the closer range anyway so at least I should be on paper at 50 yards.
No I used the 10.5 CPs for the 15 yards so as to not unnecessarily use up the JSBs until I sight at 50 yards because those will be the ones I use in the match shooting and I drained my fun money on the compressors so I will need to conserve some until the first of the year or until my disability is approved.
Yea no painting of the scope for sure and still not sure about the painting of the gun or just touching up the trigger frame and barrel bands. I have also thought about leaving it the way it looks to use some psychology on the other shooters by it looking like a junky old gun and then out shooting them just like I did with my Datsun trucks and street bikes. My KZ and Harley for the first 4 or 5 years after I had built them were still in unpainted blotchy paint and primer touched up appearances and made people think they were Junker’s until I would leave them in my tire smoke.
Yea by next Wednesday I will be all set to fill my tanks and guns as I please and am anxious now like a kid waiting for Christmas morning to get here.
Buldawg
buldawg
That’s why it looked the way it does.
How’s the trigger feel to you. To me its still to tight. If you can get your hands on a trigger grip assembly from a Mrod pistol or a 1720T you would be real happy with the gun. They are a true 2 stage trigger and very adjustable.
And hang in there. At least your ShoeBox and 1st stage compressor is on the way.
Gunfun
I have a better trigger and spring guide setup in my other 2240 that I will probably swap into your 2240 when I fix the safety pin so it does just float around. It is not a two stage but is very light and crisp and I prefer a single stage light trigger that all you have to do is just apply very light pressure to fire as I have lost most of the feeling in my finger tips from working as a mechanic and grabbing very hot engine nut and bolts or removing spark plug from a car just dropped off for a tune up. It makes it difficult to actually feel the trigger tension and stages so I do better with as light of a trigger as possible with out it being unsafe for accidental discharges.
I have seen the triggers you are talking about and the Mrods use them also but all the parts from crosman are about 30 to 35 bucks so I can do quite good with the stock trigger with a wider shoe and very light spring and guide and every surface polished to a mirror finish.
Until it get it and my other 2240 177 cal sighted in and see which one is better I am not changing anything, remember my other 177 has the Avanti Lothar Walther barrel on it and there is only 1 1/2 inches difference in length with your disco being longer.
This time next week I should be setting up my fill station and be on my way to easy street with my PCPs.
buldawg
buldawg
I’m like that with the heat and feeling in my fingers and hands from when I use to help on the production machines and working on the drag cars between rounds. I do have feeling in my finger tips but I can withstand heat on my hands that people can’t stand.
And that barrel on your .177 gun may just be the right size to make it a good shooter. I wonder if they hold the tolerances better on those barrels verses the Discovery barrel or if its just all about getting the right fit and weight of the pellet matched to velocity and distance your shooting at. And I forgot about the twist rate.
Maybe you will need to sale one of your break barrel guns for some pellet money. Hint, hint.
And I think we will be out of room on this thread for my next reply. So if you move it to another spot were I replied I will get it.
Edith,
What happened to the contest you could enter daily that was at the top of the Pyramyd home page?
Did I win???
BB,
Craig Martin has talked several of the guys shooting FT at Granbury into buying RWS 34 rifles. Craig has been installing Vortec kits in them. Craig says the Vortec kit really smoothes out the rifle.
David Enoch
David,
I’m glad Vortek is still selling the kit. It does make a big difference.
B.B.
B.B,
Say someone had a spring guide he deemed to tight a fit for his QB-36 in that @room temp it would only go about half way in so it was not installed until it could be sanded to fit. Sand, or use hot and cold to fit it? Or is that too tight?
Reb,
Use temperature. That’s how it’s done. As the spring compresses the coils expand.
B.B.
Awesome! That’s what I was thinking but needed the reassurance.It’s heavy(stainless 3.5″ with 1/4″ hole through it) and I may have to trim some of the rear spring guide to make it fit.It’s gonna be a fun & interesting experiment!We talking 400-0 F or so not torches right?
Very valuable tuning information! Thanks B.B.! Got cut off by my brain bouncin’ around and sorry for the grammatical errors too. I know it can be very distracting once I see ’em and makes it hard to concentrate on the body of the message.
Reb
Me too. I’d like to know who won the “Son of a Gun” contest that had me logging in all summer?
David & Robert,
I’ve forwarded your comments to the marketing department. I’ll let you know what they say.
Edith
Edith
Me too
Buldawg
Robert & David,
Here’s the page with all the winners of the Son of a Gun contest:
https://www.pyramydair.com/contest/
Edith
Thanks Edith,
Maybe next year!
David Enoch
Not a one from Texas?!
Texas already has plenty of guns.
Not me!
Edith
Thanks, but I did not se my name there, its got to be a mistake LOL
Buldawg
SIDEBAR : I do not have or like FaceBoo, or any other of the “Other” social NetWorks. I did have FB at one time, No more. It would be nice to see an Email Icon.
Another Superb report, Tom ! Thank you very much !
Pete
BB, Thanks for posting that. I am one of the current readers that didn’t know about this particular rifle. And, like you, I am a big fan of Dianas. I think I already told you about my own Model 35 1st Pattern that dates back to the 1930s and continues to amaze me with its accuracy. This last Sunday, I took it out of the gun safe for a few shots. When I am holding it, I feel like shooting an old Oberndorf Mauser 7mm.
If I can post a link here, this is what my gun looks like. Mine is .177.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/662823/message/1334937834/Diana+35+1st+pattern+%28undated%29
Fred_BR,
What a beautiful air rifle! That’s what they should look like.
Thanks for the look, and I realize that isn’t yours.
B.B.
No, the rifle on that link is not mine, but other than caliber, my Diana is an exact copy of that. My luck is that my rifle is also in perfect condition.
I have an older Diana 34 with a wood stock in .22 Cal. It’s a good shooter. I bought in from an estate a couple years ago. It came mounted with a Walther Scope which works but isn’t much of a scope. While it is a variable power scope, you can only get it to focus correctly when set on 2 1/2 power. It will be replaced at some point. This one doesn’t have much droop. So far it shoots best with RWS Superpoint pellets.
Mike
I have several very nice airguns and when I first bought a,high quality spring air rifle it was a .177 cal R-10 delux from Beeman , which i gave to my father as a gift back in 1986. Before that and for several years after that I used only Sheridan and other brands of MSP and co2 airguns. Beeman used to make a lot of negative comments about Diana’s (remember tap the cap?) in his catalogs ,but sold the Diana 45 back in the early days. When I bought a spring rifle for myself ,it was a Diana 34 in .22. I have never opened it up and it wears a reciever sight. In my opinion it is the 10-22 of spring air rifles. More can be done to it , and it can be done easily and parts are readily available for both maintainence and enhancement . It’s all I need in an air rifle as to cal and power. After that, I go to quality RF’s next. I’m stuck on the Diana line for those reasons , having a 46 , a 48 and a 24. Only the 24 is a .177. I’d buy a 54 in .22 before I’d buy a PCP of any kind. I like the line that much.
Robert,
I have a surprise for you this Friday! I think you will enjoy it.
B.B.
Robert
I like that you said you would buy a 54 before you would buy a PCP.
Out of all the spring and nitro guns I have or had the Diana 54 Air King is the closest spring gun I have that shoots like a PCP. It is a smooth shooter. The action is a little noisy when it recoils but you don’t feel anything. Point and shoot. No special holds or anything. And it is a very accurate gun like the pcp’s I have.
So I just thought that was a good comparison of the guns and had to say something.
That’s what you get for that kind of money. 🙂
Matt61
Matt61
This is true.
Hello B.B.,
Am I getting an air leak on my Hill Hand Pump as I am trying to fill up my BSA Scorpion SE? This is my 1st attempt to use the Hill Pump and I did wrap plumber’s tape on the fill probe which screws on to the pump nozzle. What is happening is I pump up to 100 BAR and then if I rest to let the pump cool down, I can see the pointer of the pressure gauge on the pump going down back to zero. Is that normal? What am I doing wrong? Should I immediately bleed off via bleed screw to prevent the drop in pressure?
Ron,
No, that’s not supposed to happen, but the leak could be anywhere. I can’t find it from here. You have to find it. Use soapy water and a sponge or paintbrush on every joint in the connect until you see bubbles.
And, yes, you are supposed to bleed the connection when you allow it to rest.
B.B.
Ron,
Are you filling a new, empty, BSA Scorpion SE?
If so, or if it’s low on air, cock the gun first. If this still doesn’t help pay attention to your fill probe/adapter.
The adaptor has a restricter screw fitted which must be left screwed tightly in place when using a large pressure bottle to fill the gun, or the rifle will be damaged. BUT if a hand pump is used the restricter screw should be loosened or removed using the allen key provided. Please consult your owners manual.
kevin
BB,
While I still like the handling and some other things about the Ruger Blackhawk better, I will say that the 34p is a safe choice. After about 500 pellets, mine smoothed out noticeably.
Accuracy is getting there. I was practicing for a big flintlock match with mine, and using an NMLRA small bull at 25 yards, I was pleased to shoot a 1.25″ group of 5 on one try. That is offhand with the FO sights, which I really like, say what you will. Pellets were CP Hollow points, which may not be optimal but have worked well in the 34p at a practical price point. This combination is good to 50 yards also, but the wind becomes a major factor.
Anyway, I could care less about droop as I don’t think springers shoot far enough to need a scope, but if Diana would consider an articulated cocking lever, a less slippery buttpad, and possibly upgrade the sights to be even more solid/precise, the 34p would be even better.
B.B. it sounds like you need a new way to test cocking effort….
Thanks for the re-report I have been fascinated by the amount of chatter this rifle gets, from add-ons to mods, this rifle has a faithful following.
For the longest time, the Diana 34 was B.B.’s top recommendation for newcomers willing to invest a little in a quality airgun. Not sure if that is still true.
Thanks to Baron Wulfraed and our other responses on the problem with my scope. It is a 4X Leapers with a 32mm adjustable objective. I have conducted my tests as suggested yesterday and am only getting the report out late because of a bunch of conflicts. Anyway, bright and early, I survey the scenery at 50 yards with my problem scope and a Centerpoint scope 4X16 40mm AO. The differences were clear. The test scope was like looking through a brown-yellow fog like London from the 19th century or Beijing today. Actually, when concentrating hard on individual details, the resolution was not so bad, and the reticle was clear as could be. But the haze obscured everything so badly that mostly I saw vague shapes. The Centerpoint scope was clear as a bell. Something is really wrong with the problem scope. Range was never the problem since the scope has worked at 5 yards for years, albeit with some indications of a problem. But something happened during my move to make the scope unusable. I just cleaned the lenses, so the problem must be internal. If I had to guess, I would say that something has happened to the dry nitrogen that Wulfraed says is contained in the scope. Can this gas get corrupted with a leak or impurities? Anyway, I’ll contact Leapers to find out more about their warranty policy.
In other news, I received a shipment from Duskwight of parts for my IZH 61 direct from Russia. So, the oceans have been crossed and I’m able to keep my favorite gun in operation. Thanks again, Duskwight!
Matt61
Matt61
That’s cool Duskwight sent you the parts.
Matt61
I forgot. Why are you and Wufraed calling it dry nitrogen.
Is there different types or is that just a term for nitrogen.
We have nitrogen at work in tanks that we fill the accumulators on the hydraulic systems with. I thought it was a gas not a liquid.
Sorry Wulfraed. I missed the L in your name.
Mainly to emphasize that it is nitrogen with no water vapor — they use the nitrogen to purge all water vapor containing air from the inside of the tube.
Ok just wasn’t sure what you meant.
If it is an adjustable objective, what is the objective dialed in for? Did you try changing the objective setting while viewing the target.
This is a long shot. But ain’t some of the lens glued. Maybe that is reflecting on the lens from a combination of moisture and heat that did something to the lens.
Or moisture did get inside and maybe surface rusted some of the metal and its reflecting on the lens. ???
It does sound like moisture may have gotten inside the scope and is wreaking havoc on one or more lens coatings.
Matt,
In this price range the 34 is still my top pick.
B.B.
GSG buys Diana
http://www.all4shooters.com/de/News/Kultur/GSG-uebernimmt-DIANA-Airguns-Kultur/
From what RidgeRunner says it looks like they’re trying. I wish them all the courage and discipline required to make this work for both them and the consumer-High quality that’s affordable to the masses of airgunners of present and yet to begin the journey.
Reb,
According to yesterday’s announcement the deal is done and was effective as of Monday. GSG, or more accurately their majority share holder L & O Group (Lüke and Ortmeier), now own Diana.
Where did Ridgerunner say it looks like they’re trying?
kevin
Sorry, it looks like I got my days jammed together but it’s on the 34P blog from yesterday. Let’s see if this works
/blog/2014/10/diana-rws-34p-breakbarrel-air-rifle-part-1/#comment-293256
A company shines their shoes for an interview?
English translation link:
http://www.all4shooters.com/en/news/airsoft/2014/GSG-German-Sport-Guns-takeover-DIANA-Airguns/
Thanks MG!
My plastic hood, somehow got smashed, (in the box) is there a way to replace this? I’ve found a ‘Gamo’ metal replacement, but not sure if it would fit, or could be modified to fit?
Pretty unnerving to find a new German made pellet rifle with a destroyed front hood! Did not even fire the gun yet.
http://www.gamousa.com/product.aspx?product=Hooded%20Front%20Sight%20Assembly&productID=189
Whitney,
Please contact Pyramyd Air’s tech department (techsupport@pyramydair.com) to see if they have a replacement front sight they can sell you. If they don’t have one, contact Umarex USA, the importer, for one (http://www.umarexusa.com/Contact-Us.html).
Edith
I am new to the Diana 34P with the 06 trigger. I like the rifle. I want to get a scope and mounting that you recommend. Your report dated August 31, 2006 recommends a LEAPERS 3-9x40mm with a red/green reticule. This is eight years later, do you still recommend the same scope? What mounting do you recommend to compensate for the drop and recoil situations I read so much about? Thank you for your consideration. Happy Holidays or Merry Christmas, which ever is correct.
Stan,
Welcome to the blog!
My gosh! How smart are you? You realize that with the passage of time, things have probably changed, as they certainly have.
First of all, in the intervening years I designed a UTG scope base for the Diana rifles that corrected their barrel droop. It was successful for about 5 years, until Diana changed the design of their rifles and it no longer fits. So for a scope mount I have to recommend the RWS Lock Down scope mount that compensates for barrel droop.
/product/rws-lock-down-1-pc-mount-w-30mm-rings-11mm-dovetail-barrel-droop?a=3155
I haven’t tested this base yet, but Diana was pretty quick to come out with it when they saw how well the old UTG droop-compensating base was accepted, so I have to believe this mount is a good one.
I have recommended a mount that has 30mm rings, because I am going to recommend a scope with a 30mm tube. Back when I recommended the scope that I did, the Diana 34 was still seen as an entry-level air rifle. But with the proliferation of inexpensive Chinese-built airguns, the Diana has been elevated to a higher status, and the scope I’m recommending to you is a better one.
I’m recommending the UTG 4-16X44 SWAT Accushot scope. It comes with rings, but they have Weaver bases that won’t work on the Diana 34. There are adapters for those bases, but those rings don’t compensate for droop.
/product/utg-4-16×44-ao-swat-accushot-rifle-scope-ez-tap-illuminated-mil-dot?a=3900
Do me a favor and have the salesperson make sure the one-piece mount I have selected will fit this scope. One-piece mounts are not very flexible when it comes to mounting a scope. I want you to get that mount because the Diana 34 is a real drooper!
And tell us how this turns out!
B.B.