by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
UTG Monopod v-rest and camera adapter.
This report covers:
• Why a bipod (or monopod)?
• The hold
Today, we’ll begin looking at the UTG Monopod v-rest and camera adapter from Leapers. This was first shown at the 2014 SHOT Show; and, since I was planning on using sticks (a bipod) for field target anyway, I wondered if this would be an acceptable substitute? It took most of the year to finalize the design, and I got mine just before the Pyramyd Air Cup in October. It was the final pre-production prototype, but there were very few changes made for production.
Why a bipod (or monopod)?
First of all, why do you want to use a bipod/monopod? The answer is found in history. Buffalo hunters killed an estimated 60 million American bison in a span of 10 years, and they used crossed sticks to hold their heavy rifles. The rifles weighed in the range of 12-20 lbs., and the hunters expected to shoot 20-40 animals without moving from one spot. That was called a stand, and it made the hunt successful because the bodies of the bison were close together for the skinners to do their work. The shooter shot from a prone or sitting position to keep the muzzle close to the ground. That muted the rifle’s report and made it indistinct. If the shooter was far enough away from the herd (at least 300 yards), the animals were not spooked by the sound and remained in place.
The bipod was, therefore, essential to hunting bison. They needed heavy rifles to dampen the recoil and the sticks (bipods) to support the weight.
Fast-forward to today. The bison herds are gone, and hunters no longer use sticks that much — except airgunners. The sport of field target, as well as general airgun hunting, has brought back crossed sticks in a big way. But — and this is a really big but — there’s a huge range of variation in the utility of what’s available today. The difference is that today’s hunters are sitting on stools or even standing. The longer legs of some bipods are very flexible! I saw this at the field target shoot at the Pyramyd Air Cup. Shooters were wobbling around like a bunch of 14-year-old girls walking in their first high heels.
I showed up at the match, having flown to Ohio with the bipod in my luggage. I couldn’t conveniently fly with an air rifle, so I asked Pyramyd Air to loan me a TX200 with a scope. Pyramyd Air employee Tyler Patner set it up for me, and it was sighted-in perfectly. But the great unknown was that monopod! I’d tried it out, of course, and I knew very well how it worked, but I’d never used it in a competition. This would be a test!
In a future blog report, I’ll explain how to steady this monopod when you use. For now, I’m asking you to trust me that it really does work. Right now, I want to explain the features of the monopod so you understand how it works.
A monopod is, by definition, a single leg. What it supports sits atop the leg as steady as can be, given that a single leg can move in any direction! The monopod’s main function is to support the weight of the item. But the UTG Monopod has two attachments that fit on top — one for any small-format camera, and the other a V-rest that has an adjustable rubber strap to securely hold the forearm of the rifle.
The monopod top has two different adapters with quick-disconnect features.
The monopod collapses to 20.50 inches and extends to a maximum of 58.73 inches. I’ve owned monopods for camera work, but they never stayed in place. The joints always slipped under weight. Rigidity was the one thing I hoped this monopod would have. And, believe me, I tested it!
It does hold absolutely rigid when the connecters are tightened. Yet, it also adjusts from one length to another in seconds. I used this feature during the field target match, as the ground changed from firing position to firing position. In my opinion, this is one of the most important features this device offers, and there are plenty others out there that don’t stay put. Lacking rigidity, any monopod or bipod is worse than useless.
A v-shaped rifle rest perfectly cups the forearm.
There are two forms of adjustment. The legs are spring-loaded and snap open from length to length where they stop at grooves. Push in on the release, and each leg snaps to the next groove.
Between the grooves, the legs can be stopped at any length and locked with a thumbscrew. That makes the adjustment possibilities infinite between the minimum and maximum lengths.
The adjustments allow for rapid changes, yet they can be locked in place solidly. Fractions of an inch are possible.
When I adjust the monopod for my own use, I first use the larger legs that are located at the top. I feel that gives the best possibility of rigidity, which is what I’m looking for. Of course, there’s a trick to using this ‘pod to get it to be as stable as can be, and I’ll show you that in the next report. But, a necessary part of that stability is a very rigid pole.
The UTG Monopod is lightweight, rigid and easy to transport. It’s everything I want in a convenient rifle rest. In the next report, I’ll show you how to set it up for maximum strength in the field. I’ve already done this several times with rifles and handguns, so there’s no question it works.
89 thoughts on “UTG Monopod v-rest and camera adapter: Part 1”
One thing I see with the mono-pod is that it could be a advantage. The mono-pod could be adjusted quicker because there is only one leg to adjust. That could make a difference when hunting because you sometimes don’t have long to take a shot.
I can see both the mono-pod and the bi-pod could both be equally stable. Its all about how you brace the shooting device.
Well it will be interesting to see how the reports go for this shooting stick. The only way I shoot anymore is bench rest or bi-pod. I may just have to try one of these mono-pods.
Who says a old dig can’t learn new tricks. 🙂
Oh my phone.
How about…Who says a old dog can’t learn new tricks.
It looks pretty good and would be a nice item to take to the woods for sitting positions.
There must be some further hold and bracing info. on the way. Trust B.B. to give us the true low down.
On the side, I saved the “Hawke Chairgun” to my favorites. I may check it out more in the future. On scopes,…single coated lenses and 30mm. tubes are also on the scope wish list. My reading and study shows these are better than 1″ tubes and multi coated lenses. Thank you for your suggestions.
BB always has some interesting things he comes up with. I’m sure the mono-pod hold will be interesting.
And when you get a chance start plugging some numbers into the Chair gun. Set up your 1” kill zone and zero in distance then start playing with scope height and feet per second and pellet weight. Then you will see how much of the time the pellet will stay in that kill zone over the distance of the flight path of the pellet.
You will be surprised how changing one thing will affect the flight path or I guess I should say trajectory.
And as far as the 30mm scopes go they are suppose allow more light to transition. I had one of the big 30mm tube 6-24 power sidewinder Hawke scopes on my FX Monsoon I had. It was like 400 dollars. And truthfully I like the cheaper 149 dollar Hawke scope I gave you a link to yesterday better than the high dollar Hawke. I’m a lower power shooter when it comes to scope magnification. (I shoot with both eyes open and the scope set at 6 power)
And I will have to say that the Hawke scope is more clear and sharp all the way out to the edge of the sight picture than the Bug Buster and other scopes I have used. But also the 400 dollar Hawke is the highest dollar scope I have had.
So the best I can say is you got to get some scopes and see for yourself. Then you will know for sure.
Looks like they left a wrist strap off this. My wife’s camera monopod has a strap around the handle so it can be used as a walking cane as I follow her with her camera snapping shots. For long distance she uses the monopod.
With this set at about 4 foot you can use your arm and shoulder to power walk. It is brilliant for walking up hills.
I wish you and Edith a happy, healthy Christmas and New Year.
Good call on the wrist strap. I will pass that along to Leapers.
Merry Christmas to you!
Having owned a camera store for some years, (remember those?) I can tell a tripod/monopod story or two, but my favorite was always the guy who had read everything there was to know on the subject, knew it all and wasn’t afraid to inflict his (unexperienced) knowledge on you. And oh, yes, there was more than one of these guys.
After actually purchasing the camera, in a day or so it would be returned in a huff. “It’s defective,” the yokel would invariably say. “Look, there’s a big hole,” pointing at the bottom of the camera, “where a screw fell out. Shoddy workmanship if I ever saw it!”
I must say it was a great temptation to take the camera back, minus the “20% restocking fee” but I never did.
It was always way more fun to say (with icicles hanging from the words,) “Sir, you realize you’re pointing at the tripod socket?”
–There are a few very high-end makers of monopods with what I call “vestigial” or “minimalistic” 3-toed feet on the bottom end. I doubt a gunner of any sort would try and balance a (fill in your fantastically expensive firearm or airgun here) but photo-yokels seem to have no problem with perching $10,000 or more worth of pro-level Leica or Nikon equipment on one…and then walking away from it to get a hot-dog or something. As you might imagine, the result is predictable, but the truly amusing part to the onlookers is, the owner will look first at the smoking rubble, look in every direction (including straight-up and say, “That wasn’t my fault!”) You’ll always know him ’cause he’s the one holding a 8 dollar hot-dog.
Lots more photo funnies from where that one came.
–Like the folks that carefully wrap their naked batteries in tin-foil to “keep them fresh.”
By the way, I sold the store to a guy who thought pay-phones were a sure growth industry.
Now I am not saying I would leave a rifle or expensive camera equipment on top of a monopod and walk away, but I would have thought the feet on the bottom did make the pole more steady for shooting cameras or guns. Did they not? My experience with a camera monopod is that it tends to sway and feet might limit that… our not?
It would seem that 3 little feet on monopod would allow it to stand by itself on a smooth hard surface. Hence, more stability (would be) transferred to the mount/rest.
It would be interesting to know if this was considered during the monopods development and maybe even considered as an add on. It makes basic sense.
You just gave the reason why monopods DO NOT have extra, small feet…..smooth hard surface…..
You will not be finding such a surface in the field. Extra feet will cause instability that you will have to fight with.
Twotalon says it all. One really doesn’t want to walk away from either a big-buck item or risk one’s own soft and breakable body while barely balanced on an all too-narrow base.
For a very illuminating related, if somewhat extreme example, go to youtube and check-out variations on “radio-tower climb.” At least one or two are billed as “the most frightening videos ever made.” They’re not far wrong.
I’ve never done the 1000′ plus-plus-plus climb, but I have done the 400′ plus outside-of-the-building one. In a no guy-wire, driving, blustery rain storm.
The base didn’t seem to be excessively wide under those circumstances,either.
Believe me, 400′ plus is more than enough.
The starlings have been invading again and upto their usual no good.
All I can say is they do not like the TX one little bit.
GF1 or is it LF1(lead foot)
I been waiting for more to find the suet block . Maybe if we get some snow, I might get a big flock showing up.
Got the Camaro scheduled for the first oil change on Friday.
You know me it could be either or. I think I better stick with Gunfun1. I think LF1 could get me in trouble. 😉
And the starlings are doing a pattern or something. They are here for a couple days then gone for about 3 or 4 days and then back again. There are hundreds of them. They are eating something in the grass and they are almost like sharks feeding. They are crazy right now.
And only 3000 miles on the Camaro. I forgot did you by that new or used? I thought new.
Got about 5200 miles on now . Down to 5% oil life remaining. Used 1 qt of oil.
Got it new early this spring. It really does not like to drive 55. No idea what speed it really would like.
I listened to another one take off from the gas station while I was gassing up the Stang . My wife is right….they have a very distinctive sound.
I thought you got it new.
And they do sound different don’t they. And what are you trying to say. You don’t know if likes to run better below 55 or better above. I think I like the 55 and above.
I like them. My nephews runs its butt off I know that.
Do you still have the Pontiac Solstice? I did spell that right didn’t I?
That car does not like slow. It’s always looking for an excuse to run. Just a little too much foot on the gas, or move the gas pedal a little too quick, and it goes into sport mode . Gets even crazier in manual mode (sport mode) . No civilized mode in that car.
Wife is looking to trade in the Stang (two yrs old) on a new one . She wants a GT Anniversary model. What she gonna do with 400 hp ?
Still have the Solstice.
Since the tires on your Camaro have no letter designation they are automatically in the S/H rated category of tire ratings and your car will hit the rev limiter at some where around 118 mph as there is always some speedometer error it may be a little higher or lower, but should be close as the govt allows manufactures an 8% margin for error on the lower side of the speedo reading so it can be exact or up to 8% slower than you are actually going but never faster.
With 400 horsepower.
What else would you do but have fun. 🙂
Those people who like to drive 30-40 and speed up so you can’t pass , then slow back down??? Could be a futile effort for them.
You mean you have them kind of people where you live too.
And just think if you had 800 horsepower at that time. You could put on a little sideways smoke show as you were passing by.
I like horsepower.
Any idea about how fast that 14.2 is in a quarter mile ??
Different factors involved but probably around a 100 mph maybe more like 95.
But I know you said that was a V-6 so that’s respectable from a factory shipped naturally aspirated engine.
Gunfun and Tt
My buddy has a 05 mustang gt with the 4.6 V8 cammer engine in it and it ruins 14.2 to 14.4 quarters consistently and it is right at the 93 to 96 mph area depending on the outside condition and how good of a ligjht he cuts.
We have a quarter mile strip close by that has a test and tune night every Friday night and we go up there some to watch the people run what ever you bring and it is only cost ten bucks and you can run your moped if you want,
The reason your cars did not play by the same rules as you stated they were sold for scca or police but I bet if you looked at the tire ratings they had Z rated tires on them.
I agree to appoint on the cutting a good light not affecting you ending time or speed ,but if you cut a perfect light it does trip light sooner and if your car accelerates faster in the first 60 feet than another car with the same reaction time it will put you ahead ant the end provided your car continue to accelerate at the same rate the whole track.
It also is depended you whether you deep stage or shallow stage as to the reaction time recorded.
You know as well as I do that most races our won at the start line so reaction time does matter just not so much in your et or top speed but a better reaction time will give a very slightly lower et.
Will have to move to bottom as you have no reply’s left.
Is that Camaro an SS or RS model. GMs policy on oil consumption that is considered acceptable is 1 quart in 2000 mile is considered normal usage.
The reason I ask as to what model it is so that I can give you a idea of when the rev limiter will kick in and stop ant further acceleration. The key factor in new cars for top speed limits is based on the tires that come on it from the factory. If it has a Z or ZR in the end of the size designation on the tire it will likely shut down at 155mph, but if it is an S or H it will shut down at 118 mph. An example would be 245/18/50Z or 245/18/50ZR will shut down at 155 mph but if it is 245/18/50S or 245/18/50H it will shut down at 118 as that is the maximum safe speed rating for that tire.
So in a nutshell if the tires have a Z or ZR your Camaro will do 155 before the rev limiter kicks in and will cause what feels like a engine misfire which is actually what is happening as the computer randomly kills the spark to various cylinders to keep the car from going any faster so that the tires do not expand to the point that the bead will unseat from the rim and cause a sudden loss of air pressure in the tire and possible wreck.
It became a big nightmare in 1993 when Pontiac and Chevy came out with the gen 4 trans ams and Z28S that could be ordered with or with out the sport performance package which consisted of the addition of Z rated tires and a different chip in the computer on the cars, the issue was that most sales men were not aware of what the option consisted of and the fact that if you ordered a trans am or Z28 with out the performance package it would shut down at 118 mph instead of the claimed 155 that GM boasted for these new model. We had more customers come back in complaining that there was something wrong with their car because it would only do 118 mph, and when I would walk out and look at the tires speed rating and there was no Z or ZR in the size designation and I told them that they did not get the sport performance package and what it consisted of they always wanted me to put the performanf=de chipo in the computer
I got cut short as it should say, they would want the performance chip put in the computer and I would have to tell them if they put Z rated tires on the car I would be happy to replace the chip, but until the tires were rated for 150 plus mph I could not legally install the performance chip.
In 94 all trans ams and Z28s had the performance package as a standard option in the cars.
You know cutting a good light or reaction time has nothing to do with your e.t. or ending time. The clock don’t start ticking until your vehicle moves.
Reaction time is how long it takes for the vehicle to move from when the big green light comes on. Then when the vehicle moves the clock starts ticking. Then tire spin and shift points and other variables determine how quick you go.
And also the 1LE cars didn’t play by that same tire and top end rule. Well at least the 2 Camaro’s I had didn’t. One was 90 and the other was a 97 and I bought them both brand new. They were the SCCA/ police package cars.
I think I have the LT1 model . Tires do not have a Z designation.
Right after I got it, I tried doing some research on the tires . best I could determine is that they are an “all season” tire, which suits me just fine.
I don’t race anyway.
Stand a mono pod by itself and it would fall over. Put 3 little feet on it and it would stand by itself, hence more stability to the mount. Yes….the dirt or ground is not flat or smooth, but I would think that some of the same principles would carry through,….as long as all three feet were planted. Tilt the stick on 2 feet and you would have a mono pod with two way stability, front to rear or side to side or a mix of the two depending on the orientation of the feet.
I tried all day to figure out how you would balance a rifle on a mono pod or even a tripod for that matter. There must be some model out there with a “magic” balance point. Have not found that one yet. 😉
I know the type. They hang around gun shops too. 🙂
your comment rang a bell with me. I had wanted one of the monopods with the vestigial feet (Italian make no longer in business – I believe Manfrotto is the new operations’ name). I wanted it for shooting at the track for the motorcycle magazine I used to write for. I showed my wife what to buy and even the store to buy it at. I said you can even do it on the net or by phone if you don’t want to go to the store. She ended up going to a different store and for the same price, bought something from China without the vestigial feet! Longer, heavier and without any kind of tilt/panning head. I learned my lesson…
I’d forgotten the variations of that one. It doesn’t apply to gunners but to photo-yokels. It’s when they notice the monopod screws directly into the tripod socket and they decide they’re being ripped off by obtaining a tilt-pan head allowing the camera to capture images up/down/sideways.
They think they’re pretty smart until they want to take a vertical image and find the monopod now has to be held unsuported 90 degrees horizontally off to the side.
Makes them real popular in a crowded ball-park
Ooops!, on the above 2 post. (Chhris/Chris)…..I’m still on my first cup a coffee and you see that it is early.
Note to self….Wait 1 hour and at least 1 cup of coffee prior to posting. Also, maybe easier math questions for us sleepy eyed posters? 🙂
Is it only Hunter Field Target rules that allow sitting on stools and using monpods or bipods or are they allowed in other versions of Field Target as well?
Yes. But as a 67-year-old-man, I can tell you that’s the only class I am interested in these days. That class is causing the HUGE surge in interest in field target! In the old days when the AAFTA sitting position was all there was, old folks found the sport too challenging.
Thanks for the clarification. Having never been very flexible to begin with, AAFTA rules would be a non-starter for me. But Hunter Field Target does sound like a game that I would like to try.
Are you gonna continue the topic:
“Why guns wear out” ?
Or did I somehow miss part 2?
Yes, the most important part is the next part, which is about why airguns wear out. It’s coming next week.
BB I know this is off topic a little but what happened to the peep site that went on a weaver rail made by UTG that you tested a while ago? I cannot find it anywhere on their website
BB what happened to the peep site that attached to a weaver rail that UTG made. I remember you tested it a while ago and I cant find it on their site
Are you sure it was from Leapers? I remember a peep from Air Venturi, but I don’t think it came from Leapers.
See that here:
I am very interested in this monopod. I spent about 14 years of my younger life as a wildlife photographer. It is a form of hunting, just with a camera. I tried tripods, but they were just too slow to setup for a shot. I don’t really remember any bipods that were being used by any successful wildlife photographers at the time. There were monopods available, but the ones I tried didn’t help much.
I used Leitz and Nikon equipment and Leitz had the best telephoto lens for wildlife use. It was a follow focus lens with just one piece of glass and was available in both 400 and 560 mm sizes. It also came with a shoulder stock. It was a simple adjustable stock made of shaped tubing. It became the single piece of equipment that I could just not do without. When Nikon came out with a superior telephoto lens to the Leitz, the little shoulder stock worked great with it, too. I learned to look for a natural rest when in the field. Just leaning against a tree with my legs spread made me a lot more steady. In the prone position, my body on the ground and my camera rig supported by my two elbows was as good as any tripod.
Now in my 70’s, I need all of the help I get get when shooting firearms or air guns. For the past year, I have been trying to psyche myself up to try FT competition. My body won’t allow me to shoot in any class but the hunter division. My Talon SS came with an AirForce bipod and it does help a lot. But, the legs are too short to use while sitting on a bucket. I tried using cross sticks (actually pool cues) and I was amazed at how much it helped so I know a good bipod ……. or monopod can be a great help.
I still haven’t purchased a bipod with long enough legs to use in FT, so this new monopod might just be something I can use. I look forward to the rest of the reviews.
I think this monopod is what you want. I am a duffer photographer and leaning against a tree would be my fix for telephoto shots in the field, as well. But I can shoot my TX nearly as well off this monopod as I can with the rifle rested in a sandbag rest on a concrete shooting bench. It really works!
How about a version a quarter the length with a compact 90 degree swivel? I know they already make a grip/bipod with feet that come out of it but I really like the idea of compactness and envisioned sanitary mounting of this fictional monpod on a tactical or hunting themed gun… I this this would be extremely practical!
I have a theory…. Id like to know what you and others think about it.
Regarding breakbarrel joint-line up accuracy.
When you scope a breakbarrel, there will be accuracy problems IF the barrel doesnt lockup at the exact same spot.
But, I have my hw80 (beeman r1) fitted with anschuetz match peepsights. I think, just my 2 cents, that a swift in lockup of the joint doesnt affect the accuracy of the rifle. Cos you will still line up the peepsight with the post. So in theory you will hit what youre aiming at.
Does this make any sense?
No I am afraid that wont work. The original iron sights work like that because both sights are mounted on the barrel, but with one on the barrel and one on the receiver the correction will only be half of what is needed. That said though I dont think you will ever see POI changes because of lockup on any good quality break barrel and if you did it would most likely be because of the pivot point and not the breach lock.
Quality break barrels have no issues whether you utilize a scope or peep sights as both mount on the receiver or spring tube in the case of like your Beeman. It would take years of use to see that lock up chisel wear and even if it does unless it or the pivot point did become sloppy, there are no issues with a quality break barrel air gun.
What you do need to do though with all of them is put some thread lock on the screws that mount the rifle to the stock. They always eventually work loose and that will change your point of impact just as changing how you hold a springer also changes the point of impact. So I do use thread lock on all those screws to stop such aggravation.
As for shooting sticks I use a simple set of homemade cross sticks. These adjust very quickly and adjust to uneven ground simply by their design, and they stop all sideways movement as you have two pointed feet stuck in the ground, so all you have to worry about is back and forth movement and your own wiggling and breathing and heartbeat. It is quite easy to make a head shot on such as a squirrel within the respective ranges of the airgun capability and your own skill level of keeping range to where you can put all shots into a one inch circle.
With such as your Beeman, if you do use shooting sticks or such as this pre-made single pole type support, the secret with a springer is to sight it in using the support making sure you place the rifle at the same point each time. Fully expect that if you put the rifle on the support one way one time and another another time using sticks or support poles will change impact point.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info!
Ive thread locked all of my weihrauchs.
As for the shooting sticks:
Im a formal national 10m Olympic air shooter and a national .22 5 positions rimfire shooter. The 5 positions are: standing, kneeling, prone, standing with one- legged stick and running bore. Regarding the stick-part…. it was just a plain wooden stick. The same as you would use on your everyday broom/sweaper. The story behind the stick was this:.. when youre hunting in the woods, you just grab a thick branch off the ground and use it as a monopod.
There were no rules HOW to use the stick. So there were lots of different ways people used the stick. Since my bread and butter is off hand Olympic style, I used the stick on a different way than my dad. My dad is 75 and a former special forces sniper. Due to his age, his body cannot do what it used to, so he used the stick to reduce the weight of the rifle, were as I use the stick to help with balancing the rifle. Thats two different ways of use. But it worked. The most different part was the running boar. You have to aim at the point were the ’10’ (bullseye) WILL BE at the moment the bullets hits the bore. Running boar was the last part at the championships, all the top 10 shooters could shoot a “10” at the paper targets, so matches were won or lost at the running boar lane.
Some men in their 30’s would hate to lose from their “old” father and come home with silver. I was proud as hell if my dad beat me and got gold.
About what people disrespectful call “old men”. Its seems “old” shooters have no nerves at all. When they shoot, theyre cold as Ice. Im in my 40’s, but have great respect for my dad. At 100 meters, The Man still shoots 10 shots in a circle of 10 cm (4 inch) in 40 seconds….with his old Korean War Lee Enfield. Hold your breath…..without a magazine!!!
Im not an American, so maybe in your country thats no big deal. After all you grew up with 30-06 in mummies belly.
Amen, got the gold. Proud as hell.
I’ver seen your shooting, so it makes sense to me.
Yes indeed, you know what I can do with my rifles. But that alone doesn’t make my ‘theory’ valid. My hw80/r1 has now a third of the shots on its counter in comparison to your famous r1, and its only 6 months old. So its aging rapidly.
I have not thought of that, but you may be correct.
Im not convinced, yet.
If the front post is a few degrees off its original line, say its 3 degrees off to the left, peeping through the diopter you will correct automatically to the right with a FULL 3 degrees, and therefore hit what you aim.
That is…..how I see it. I might be totally wrong, but thats the beauty of this blog…. helping/educating each other WIth Knowledge and Without Bad Language. SO maybe you wanna explain it more elaborate?
You explained to well. I just do not know enough math/physics to know if you are correct. Looks like Sam has thought of this before.
A few quick questions,…
1)..Gunfun1 recommended a few scopes. One was Hawke brand with links to the sight. I swore I read that they stated that they could be used on firearms, (as well as), air guns. While no expert by any stretch, I did not think that was possible from what I’ve heard over the years.
2)..Have you done test on the TX200 in .22 cal.?,… as this is what I am considering very heavily.
Looking forward to more on the monopod as well as gun wear/quality.
I have no doubt that Hawke scope can be used on firearms. Until you get into the heavy calibers, airguns are harder on scopes than firearms.
I have shot a .22 TCX, but never really tested one in my classic way.
Thank you. Was this just a “myth”, (rifle scopes on air guns), or does it vary from brand to brand and maybe even newer scope technology/manufacturing vs older scopes.
Oddly enough, I think I have watched all videos and read all articles on scopes on P.A. and Air Gun Academy, and not once do I remember this being mentioned. Odd.
Thank you, Chris
That link to the P.A. page of that Hawke scope I use states in the description that the scope is rated for magnum springer use.
If that’s stated than means that scope is usually a pretty durable scope. Go back and reread it. You will see it.
Just did,…… says” works well on air rifles, fire arms and air soft rifles”
PY-A-4430,…..which leads me back to the above question.
Thank you for the reply, Chris
Ok I see what you mean now. If its also good for a firearm.
I keep thinking airguns. And yes if a scope can withstand a magnum springer it will probably survive a firearm.
A magnum springer has a very harsh forward and backward recoil everytime a shot is fired.
Its got to be a pretty good scope to withstand that air gun.
Thank you,…..It would seem that firearm scopes on air guns must be a “myth”. At least for “todays” scopes. Still no answer on the “myth” or “fact” question. More than a few firearms people at work say that you will ruin a rifle scope on an air gun.
Surely,…surely I’m not the only one that has heard this?
Catch you in the AM.,…..Chris
It depends on what kind of air gun you put that firearm scope on also.
The firearm scope would probably last almost forever on a pcp or Co2 or pump air gun. They don’t have the same firing characteristics as a springer or nitro piston.
If you want a nice smooth shooting air gun try one of those other 3 types I listed.
Although there are smooth springers if tuned right.
Gunfun1, check out my post below, 12/24, 5:30ish.
Thank you for your input.
I just read your comment.
The good thing about it is we all learn about different things when we bring up the different subjects.
What I have learned about this blog the little bit of time I have been here is there are all kinds of knowledgeable people that are willing to help when needed.
It don’t matter what the subject is it seems there is somebody here willing to point somebody in the right direction.
I have shot firearms in the past and my brother is still into firearms. I got my arm knocked off in the past and now I m ready for smooth shooting. I about probably 95% of the time air guns now. But I do shoot my .17 hmr when I go out to my brothers along with some of his pistols and firearms.
But I’m most happy air gunning. 🙂
It was no myth. In the 1970s, firearms scopes could not stand up to the recoil of airguns ( a two-direction snap) and failed. So, over the next 20 years scope makes learned to brace their airgun scopes. In 1996 Leapers made the decision to brace ALL their scopes — something that took Leupold many more years to do. Since then, most good scopes have been okay for airguns as well as firearms.
Thank you for that answer. More than a few “experts” at work will be quite surprised. And if I had to bet,…still won’t believe it.
Yesterday at work I was picking the brain of a firearm shooter whom I respect. He has a brother that hunts squirrels with an air rifle, but had not really seriously considered air guns himself. We talked scopes, air scopes vs firearm scopes and scope brands.
Leapers and Hawke were not as not well respected among fire arms people, he stated. And then the issue of rifle scopes on air guns was discussed.
Then your reply, as well as input from Gunfun1, I was “armed” with “ammo” to make my case. As it turned out, he went home, got on his favorite firearm sight and must have put the question out there and found that Leapers and Hawke were in fact recommended by his peers for air rifles. He was surprised, as was I, of your answer that todays firearm scopes can be used on air guns.
Bottom line, I sparked an interest in a potential new air gunner and I know that I can learn much from him as I’m sure many points do overlap.
P.S. Got to see my first episode of American Air Gunner and got to see you in action. It was a “recap” show but I hope to catch more in the future.
Thank you so much and of course,The Best To You And Yours,..Chris
Thanks for the clarification regarding the splatology of lead balls and pellets. Seems I have some calibration work to do once I find a chronograph.
Yes there is that factor to consider too. Come to think of it with the varying lead alloys of today’s pellets it will remain to be seen how valid the test will be with differing hardness of various brands.
It’s December 24 already in my part of the world and I would like to wish you all a Blessed Christmas!
And Merry Christmas to you.
Hey! There he is, remember I said I hoped to find a bipod deal? Got a ridiculous military grade folding, extending, barrel clamp bipod that’s as bulletproof as they get! Guy said it came off an issue m16, and its old, no doubt it was military. They don’t make em like this anymore. Got it on the airmag but haven’t had a chance to test it out. For 50$, Its freakin sweet! Hoping it doesn’t throw em too high from a hard surface, figure out how to compensate with hold if so.
Yep, I remember. As I said….. Sometimes youre lucky!
Enjoy your new piece!
I had a ‘popular something’ magazine from the 50/60’s that had a reader tip in it for photography; that if you needed something more portable than a monopod etc —
to have a string already sized to go from a screw you put in the bottom of the camera, and other end tied to a large washer (like for a 1″ bolt), you hold the washer under your foot and pull up tight on the string to steady the camera.
Is this some widely known thing, or was it lost after the magazine was out? Do any photographers or airgunners already know of this being tried, I think it might work for guns..
Wow, that’s a crazy idea that just might work amazingly! Gonna hafta give it a try.
The advantages of a monopod over a bipod and tripod include portability and its ability to always offer a level mounting surface that can be always vertical and not canted one direction or another. If I get one of these I would mount a level or two on it.
Bob from Oz might have been the first to mention it, but this looks like a superb, high-tech, high-end walking stick. Those can easily cost as much as this does, perhaps a bit more. The same is also true of professional grade photographic monopods. This is a bit expensive if it were to be used only for shooting, but the other possibilities, plus its potential as a binoculars-steadier for birders (not starlings-watchers, wink, wink) make it worth the price, given its stability, versatility, and features.
That’s exactly what I mean about reaction time. It has nothing to do with making your car go faster or quicker at any point in time after the vehicle moves. You could sit there till the next morning after the big green light turns on and it will not make your vehicle go slower or faster. It wont make your 60 foot any better.
But where reaction time is important is like you said if your Bracket racing when both racers put there dial in/time they believe their vehicle will run on the vehicle. The tower then puts both vehicles dial in into the timing computer. When both racers stage their vehicles the car with the slower dial in or E.T. tree will start counting down first. Then here’s where reaction time matters. If he makes his car move as close to when he see the big green light come on and his vehicle runs close to what dial in that he posted he will have a better chance of winning.
But then that other car is still setting at the line waiting for his tree to go down. Well the other slower car is halfway down the track by time his big green light comes on. He better have a good reaction time and he better hope his car will run the dial in number he posted and that he don’t red light. Then he automatically looses and same with the slower car that left already. If he would of red lighted he would of lost already and the fast car can just idle down the track if he wants after the tree comes down.
But if they both have exactly the same reaction time and the cars run their dial in number their should be a close race at the finish line. Now both cars have to make sure they don’t breakout or run a quicker E.T. than they posted on their vehicle and they have to be the first over the finish line also. If one of them run a quicker E.T. than what was posted and they make it over the finish line first they still loose because they broke out.
So reaction time or cutting a good light does not make your vehicle run a quicker E.T. but it will help you get to the other end on time. If its heads up racing or arm drop racing where both cars leave on green or a drop of the hand at the same time the reaction time will matter only if both vehicles are running almost the same exact time. The quicker car will win even if the slower car leaves first even if they both cut good lights.
I know that and it was bracket racing that I was mainly referring to as that is how I out ran the V*s in my Datsun truck was from the light and dialing in a closer ET because I knew my truck would run a 14.4 every time if I left at 6000 rpm so it all came down to the light and hoping the other guy either did not get his dial in correct or broke out.
But even in exactly the same matched heads up cars racing 90% of the race is won at the start line by reaction time , I know it does not make your car any faster but it does decide the winner in most races.
Reaction time is another variable that helps win a race. It doesn’t decide the winner most of the time. It will help without a doubt. To many things have to work right to win most of the time. Drag racing ain’t as easy as it looks when you see two cars going down a straight line as you know.
And from experience in heads up racing I have seen to many cars that got better reaction times off the line than I did. And after I got off the line and about a car and half out I would just walk right past them and there was no way they would catch me.
I use to win money at the track on test and tune night. We would let the person I was racing get out 2 or 3 car lengths after the light went green and I would make sure I would only win by about a car length. If you wanted you could designate on your tech card when you turned it into the tower that you wanted no time displayed. But everybody learned real quick if you seen no time displayed on the board at the end of the track that was probably a fast car and they didn’t want there times shown.
Yea you used the grudge match setup to win your money with as I did it to some extent with my Datsun truck also as most people would look at it and think they had nothing to worry about, but with me it all boiled down to consistency as I knew what my truck would run and if I did my part it would never let me down. there were a lot of V8 cars that went home with less than they came with a fair amount of the time and then of course there would be the ones like you that dialed in slower times than your car would run and wait till the last 100 feet and drive right by me. But for the most part I got lucky because the other guy was way overconfident in that my truck would not run what I said it would and by the time they realized how far out in front of them I was they could not catch up.
In my saying that most races are won at the starting line by reaction time I am referring to the pros in top fuel and funny car and pro stock because those cars are so closely matched that it only take hundredths of a second to decide the winner in most races provided neither car breaks.
But in the levels that you and me raced it is most definitely not at the starting line for most races as you say there are just to many variables to take into account just like air gun target shooting.
You got it drag racing, air guns and other things look so simple on the surface but as it goes the deeper you dig there is more to find and learn.
Nothing is ever as simple as it looks.
Yep you got it and it all takes dedication and the willingness to learn and grow as you go.
And help when needed for anybody that may want to know.
Amen to that as I have learned and been helped more times than I can remember here on this blog by some who know they did and some who did not but provided help none the less.
So thanks to all and best wishes for all.
All true for me too.
And its getting time to get ready for that Christi dinner.
So Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Merry Christmas to you and your family also and talk later.
Thanks for the report BB. I can’t wait for the second part (i.e. how to get a steady hold on monopod). I’ve never been able to shoot good with a monopod because it keeps wobbling. A tripod is steady but I find it really hard to use in the field because it takes time to setup for a the shot.