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Education / Training 2015 SHOT Show: Day 2

2015 SHOT Show: Day 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Day 1

This report covers:

• Gamo
• Umarex USA
• Hatsan USA
• Big news at Leapers!

I’ll pick up where I left off. Let’s finish Gamo first. They have a new PCP under the name Gamo Coyote. The barreled action is made in the UK by BSA, and the stock is made in Spain. That means you get a dead-accurate BSA barrel, which a lot of folks will like.

Gamo Coyote
Gamo’s new Coyote has a BSA barreled action in a Gamo wood stock.

Umarex USA
Okay, someone wanted to see some springers, and Umarex has a pair coming out this year. The Walther Terrus is a sleek-looking breakbarrel that’s available in either a wood or synthetic stock. This is one I want to test as soon as it comes out — just because it looks so svelte. It reminds me of an FWB 124. I see fiberoptic sights, but a scope can also be mounted.

Walther Terrus
The new Walther Terrus comes in either a wood stock or synthetic. Both stocks have identical lines that can be seen here.

The other new springer from Umarex this year is the Umarex Torq. This is a lower-priced breakbarrel in a synthetic thumbhole stock. It has similar lines to the Fuel, but there are no bipod legs in the stock. It also has fiberoptic open sights. This one has a paramilitary look — well, at least to me.

Umarex Torq

Umarex Torq is a new breakbarrel at a low price point.

You PCP fans will be getting a repeating bolt-action rifle called the Walther Rotek. It features a wood stock and has the lines of a sleek Hammerli 850 Air Magnum, but this one runs on air — not CO2.

Walther Rotek R8
The Walther Rotek is a repeating PCP that will come in .177 and .22.

Hatsan USA
To finish the report on Hatsan, all their PCPs will now come with the Quiet Energy shrouds — even the big bores! And Hatsan USA President Blaine Manifold was kind enough to show me the new Galatian in a Turkish walnut stock that has a precision adjustable comb. Someone asked if I would test a Galatian this year, and this is the one I pick!

Hatsan Galatian walnut
Hatsan USA President Blaine Manifold holds the new Galatian in its walnut stock with adjustable comb.

Manifold was also excited to show me the new SuperTact breakbarrel pistol that now comes with their Quiet Energy silencer. This is the first application of this unit to a spring gun.

Hatsan Super Tact QE
Hatsan SuperTact pistol/carbine now comes with a QE silencer.

Big news at Leapers!
I’ll finish this report with what I learned at Leapers. First of all, and by far the most stunning news of the entire SHOT Show, is the fact that Leapers will begin U.S. production of scopes this year! As you probably know, nearly all optical manufacturing takes place in Asia these days. But Leapers’ founder David Ding has been bringing the manufacture of his products back to his Livonia, Michigan, operation piece-by-piece. This year they, started in-house injection molding of plastic parts for mil-spec stocks, plus a full Ceracoating capability that exceeds ASTM standards in all categories.

Optics are next. Leapers has manufactured its optics in Asian plants under their control, but now they intend bringing that technology into their U.S. operation. They know this will give them greater control over quality while shortening the supply chain. This is huge news. It’s as big as General Motors announcing they intend making 100 percent of their cars here in the U.S.

But that’s just the teaser. What it means for you, the shooter, is that there’s a big push in optics going on at Leapers this year. First up and top on my personal list will be the new 4-16x scope that has an internal bubble level. I know they aren’t the first to the market this, but they spent 4 years getting it right. This scope is extreme high quality, and the bubble is ultra-easy to center.

Leapers scope with bubble level
I was delighted to look through the scope that has an internal bubble level. This has been 4 long years in development!

But even that paled to what I was told next. Last year, Leapers brought out a scope that has a 1-8x range. Until they did, the few scopes that could do that wide a range cost thousands of dollars. They brought the price down below $500. But that wasn’t enough for them.

This year they will bring out a scope that has the same range of magnification, only this one goes from 2x to 16x! That hasn’t been done by any other scope manufacturer — ever! That one will be out this year, and you’d think they would have stopped there! But no — they went past even that. How about a scope that goes from 3.5x to 28x? That has not only never been done — most scope manufacturers will tell you it’s impossible! That scope has a 35mm tube for the light transmission they need, and it’s a larger scope. But the 2-16x is smaller than most 3-9x variables!

Leapers wide range scopes
From the bottom scope to the top: 1-8x, 2-16x and the 3.5-28x scopes from Leapers!

There’s at least one more report and probably two more coming, but I’m skipping a day tomorrow to give myself a break. Tomorrow’s topic will give me a chance to regroup and collect my thoughts. I have so much more to share with you about what’s coming this year.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

96 thoughts on “2015 SHOT Show: Day 2”

  1. Walther Century…..

    Does anyone have some experience with this rifle?
    It comes with barrel lock (same as lgv) and has 24 joules (about 18 fp)
    Its cheaper than the lgv, Im interested if its as accurate as the lgv.
    Maybe BB can do some inquiries at the Show.

    • The walther century
      is an awesome rifle.
      Maybe a little bit heavy but extremely accurate.
      I own the 16j version.
      Equip it with a supressor and it wil be really quiet.

    • Dutchjozef
      I own a Walther century 16j version.
      It is a really accurate rifle.
      It may be a bit heavy for shooting while standing but a bipod or bench rest wil fix that.
      It’s really easy to attach a supressor and i have replaced the scope that came with the gun because the crosshair is really thick.

      from the netherlands

      • hallo Niels,

        Thanks for your comment.
        What groups do you get with the century?
        Can you compare smoothness, shotcycle and accuracy with an other gun witch you have experience with?

        Alvast bedankt.

        • Hallo Dutchjozef

          The gun is really smooth.
          The lock on the barrel is nice.
          And the groups i get from this gun are great. (20 eurocent size at 20 meters)
          The accuracy of my other guns are nothing like the accuracy of the century. (i own a umarex 850 air magnum hunter , a benjamin sheridan c9a and a lot more)

          I hope this helps You.


    • I hope you didn’t steal BB’s thunder on this one. 😉

      Really, the Century is the same as the LGV with the exception that they removed the open sights and put on a scope.

      • Ridgerunner,

        Of course I tried to find some info myself.
        Sure thing. …. its got a bigge tube diameter. Hasnt got the rotating piston either. So its not exactly the same gun. But Im wondering if its as smooth and accurate as the lgv.
        Ive got this ‘thing’ for barrel lock.

          • Hey RR
            Yesterday we was talking about thumb hole stocks.

            I’m out shooting the FWB 300s right now and just happened to think about our conversation yesterday.

            The FWB 300s does have a pistol grip design to it were you hold your trigger hand. It resembles a thumb hole stock minus the price of wood that would be above your thumb.

            No wonder I like shooting it. And by the way I did a tune on it the other day. I took one of those wire brush type hones that have them little gray 1/8″ balls on the tip of the wire that is a type of hone material. Gave it a little cross hatch. Figured it would work good because it actually has a cast iron sealing ring like on the piston of a car engine plus the front red plastic seal on the front of the piston.

            And I cut a coil off each end of the spring. I do believe the high speed of the piston was allowing the air to blow by just like a high compression engine does at a high rpm.

            The gun went from 450 fps to 600 fps with the 10.34 JSB’s after the tune. That is the biggest increase in velocity that I have seen in a spring gun.

            And the gun got more consistent on the chrony. It went from a 27 fps spread down to 11 fps spread. And tightened the group at 50 yards. Was getting about a 1.750″ groups and it brought it down to about a 1.125″ group. Then I but about 3 drops of the RWS silicone oil in the breech of the barrel. The fps spread stayed about the same but the velocity increased another 50 fps and the gun is getting pretty consistent .950″ groups.

            I’m way happy with the gun. Just thought I would let you know. Have you done anymore with the other 300s you have?

  2. Hi BB,

    The picture of the Gamo’s new Coyote has a BSA barreled action in a Gamo wood stock did not display. Do you know if it will have the CAT trigger? Thanks for your great reports.

  3. I am happy that UTG Leapers are adopting this tech, but there are Chinese manufacturers who have worked making scopes along the same lines as these specs though in my recent experience not very well as i ordered one just to check it out and give it a chance ADE Advanced optics 3-30×56 and the actual specs would have been 3.86-30×56. I believe these are the same folks who produced some Counter Sniper scope models along with some other brands. Back to my experience they sent me a scope shaped paperweight as the parallax/focus was non moving and non functional and stuck at 100yds but could not get a clear focus at any range and i spent no real time trying to evaluate obviously no QC at all, boxed & returned no biggie. Purchased a Leapers going to be delivered Friday. I am kind of sorry i do not have a scope to tide me over until the new ones come out. I am sure glad it is UTG Leapers making these as i am confident they will do it right. On the plus side i am sure it will also mean quality affordable rings & mounts in 35mm.

    • Mike Ogden,

      Glad to see Leapers is “bringing it home”. It would be nice to see more companies in general doing this.

      New to scopes, I was wondering about the “big deal” on mag. ranges. It would seem that the lower mag. # would be it. Wheres the benifit or advantage? There seems to be plenty of scopes with a wide mag. range already.

      Also, what is “Ceracoating”? My guess would be ceramic coating on metal but the it might be a lense coating process. I don’t know.

      • You guessed right on the ceracoating. It is a type of paint. It also works on plastic and wood. It is very durable.

        The larger the magnification range of a scope, the more versatile it can be. If you are shooting long range, you can crank the power up. If what you are shooting is close in, you can turn it down. More often than not, most people leave it in one spot, but it is nice to have that option. With air rifles, this is most useful to the FT crowd. Their targets can be anywhere from 10 – 55 yards away.

      • Chris, USA
        Also a lot of people in field target use the higher magnification for range finding.

        Turn up to let’s say 16 power and use your parallax adjustment to get the best focus you can. (The higher magnification will show the out of focus situation better than low magnification).

        Then you look at the yardage that the parallax shows and that should be the distance to the target.

        Then most peaople will turn their scope down to 10 magnification and shoot. That power will be true to the 3.6″ mildot radiant. I myself like 6 magnification because it gives a wider field of view. And I shoot with both eyes open and it just matches up better for me that way. Maybe matching IP ain’t the right wording. I should say that’s what I’m comfortable with.

        Oh and I forgot. A lot of people like the side wheel parallax better than it positioned on the front of the scope. Its easier to adjust plus people will put a big wheel on to give a finer adjustment. And also to put tape marks on for true yardage readings. Some scopes won’t be true to what the parallax focus’s at. So they will mark off pre measured spots from let’s say 10 to 60 yards at 10 yard increments. And that’s about a reasonable usable range for airgunning or a field target match.

        So what you do is use that higher magnification on your scope and focus at each distance with your sidewheel then mark on the wheel at that spot to the dot or pointer and write the true yardage on the tape.

        After you go at each yardage and focus and make it out to 60 yards you will have all your distances wrote down. So now when you turn up to that pre determined magnification and focus on a object you will now distance it is at. Then turn back down to your 10 magnification and use the correct hold that you determined for that distance and make your shot. If all goes well you will hit on target.

        Oh and always stay with the same higher power that you decided to use for your focus readings on your side wheel and also always try to determine your hold over or under and zero in distance at that 10 magnification if that’s what you decided on. Also use that 19 magnification to make your shot.

        You want to always keep to your determined standard you set up.

        If you do all that I’m pretty sure you will not miss your shot if you got a good gun and you do your part of holding on target. I don’t never miss.

        Ok I had to throw that last sentence in up above. I do miss my shots. But not very often. 😉

        • Gunfunn1,

          That is what I intend to do. I may have to take a day off and do an extensive range test at different yardages with different pellets.

          One thing that hit me was the (true) “10mag./3.6″ mildot radius”,……what does that mean? I sighted at x10 at 40′ and intend to range find with actual data and it sounds like that you want to range find with the parralex up on high with the actual distance marked on the wheel and then back off to x10.

          I did get the 80mm. parralex wheel and glad I did. The Leapers A.O. is very stiff and it is just plain nice and easy with the wheel. Plus, it looks so darn cool!

          • Should say,…..Crank up mag., x16 in my case,…focus parallex, note range, back off to x10 mag., refocus parallex, adjust for hold under/over based on x10 sight in,.. and shoot.

            • Chris, USA
              You only need to focus parallax once at a given target you want to shoot at. And yes use the high magnification. Turn your scope back down to your sight in magnification of 20 if that’s what you power you used to sight the gun in.

              Then check your cheat sheet for the proper hold over or under for that distance you focused at. You don’t refocus parralax when you turn the magnification down. You leave it where it was focused the best at high magnification. It will be even a sharper crisper sight picture at the lower magnification.

              And search mildot range finding and you will come up with how they determine what one mil dot to the next refers to. But 10 magnification is what the mildot readings are based of off. I’m on my phone replying right now and it don’t want to cooperate sometimes when I want to post a link.

              But there is a lot of good info out there that shows charts and formulas as how they came up the ways to use mildots.

              I will try to post some info later when I can get on my laptop.

      • I also while shopping for a new scope noticed that Nikko Stirling has a new C-more x10 line with three scopes 1-10×24, 2-20×44, 3-30×56 . In the end though i crave more magnification am outfitting a pest removal tool and the leapers 4-16×56 is the right scope for that. I do appreciate the blog and being informed of events i would like to see and, well thanks for the blog it is a wealth of information. Have Fun!

          • No criticism meant, you cant be everywhere can you besides even though i like the looks of nikko stirling scopes just try and buy a sidewheel for one inside the US. I did not intend to minimize what Leapers is doing or the amount of knowledge i have gained from your good works and this blog and i always kook forward to your observations and insight. later

            • Mike,

              I didn’t take it as criticism. I write and say so many things I’m bound to get things wrong once in awhile. I should have said, “To the best of my knowledge…” but sometimes I forget that I am mortal.

              You keep right on correcting me! What we want is the truth, and it doesn’t matter how we get it.


  4. Now that i think about the way ADE Advanced optics wasted my time i wish i could go to the show and visit booth #1509 and let them know what i think about the complete lack of quality control and the paperweight i received.

    • Many scope manufacturers have jumped on the 35mm tube bandwagon.

      Buzzwords that are helping to market these scopes are “tactical”, “long range”, “sniper”, etc. It’s also easy to market “better light gathering because it has a bigger tube”.

      Mounting options for 35mm tube scopes are still limited but suspect if the current craze continues the mounting options will increase.


    • RR

      The Torq looks to be just be a Ruger Targis in a different stock. Umarex already did the same with the Umarex Surge just being a Ruger Blackhawk Elite in a slightly different stock.


        • RR

          Can’t complain about my “Chinese 34” the trigger on my Ruger Air Hawk is a decent copy of the T05 and with gun is able to shoot dime size groups at 25yds if I pay attention to the hold. My only gripe was the included 4×32 scope but I guess ya gotta put a scope on the gun if ya want Wally World to carry it. 😉


          • I had one for a very short time. The trigger on the one I had was absolutely horrid. If it had been my first air rifle and I had not found this and other blogs, etc. I would have walked away from air rifles. It did shoot decently, but sometimes you had a long, creepy pull and sometimes all you had to do was barely touch it. My experience with that Ruger really turned me off of Chinese junk.

    • Dom,

      That is kind of what I was thinking. The Terrus seems to also be priced in the RWS Diana 34 price range, which means that Crosman and Gamo are going to be hard pressed to match up.

      This is what I have been saying for quite some time. The 34 is considered an European entry level air rifle. A Crosman or Gamo sproinger in that price range is not anywhere near as nice. They really need to wake up and smell the coffe. The Europeans are seeing a growing market over on this side of the pond and are working hard to meet the demands.

      • I think Gamo will improve over the next 5 years, their latest trigger is bordering on nice, I they can take a step back from the blind alley that is springer muzzle energy and not get pushed about by “tactical” fashions they could pull a few nice rifles out…imagine a 14ft/lb CFX with their latest trigger at less than $300
        I’m pretty sure Crosman/Ruger/Remington don’t actually make a springer action.
        I can’t really reccomend anything other than German springers these days, even to a beginner…in some ways especially to a beginner, despite the price.

        • Dom,

          You are making my knees weak. I used to have a Gamo CFX. A new 14+FPE CFX in .22 with their new trigger in a wood stock like the BSA Lightning… I think I need to go change.

          Come to think of it, did I not just describe the Walther LGU?

          • You did, but at $200 less, a well run in CFX, especially in the Royale stock was very close to being a good gun, a nicer trigger, which they now have, and a slight lightening of piston and spring and the HW77/97 would have had real cause to worry, Gamo keep getting (if you ignore the slight disparity in finish) pretty close to an afficianados rifle, I actually think that as the US market becomes a bit more discerning and gather what it takes to make a great springer that they could supply it, what doesn’t make a good spring gun is 30ft/lb in a sci fi ABS stock.
            The Terrus and Century will have that particular ethic inbuilt, enough power for 50 yard pest control, a decent trigger and a good accurate barrel…what more is needed?, It’s no accident the Diana 34 is popular, it delivers in the key areas.
            If you want something to gaze at, slightly better trigger, more accuracy enhancing weight and better finish, paying the extra for a higher end model still makes sense, but I have a lot of time for bread and butter airguns that are accurate and capable….so few cheapies with their Chinese or Turkish origins are.

              • To clear up the difference between the LGV and Century/Terrus
                They both have the same 30mm compression tube, however the LGV and LGU have it sleeved to 25mm with a 25mm piston with rear bearings
                The Century and Terrus utilise the full 30mm without rear bearings, though both pistons can free rotate, this allows more flexibility to alter power output for different markets by shortening or lengthening the stroke, at the expense of heavier piston led recoil
                I would therefore expect the US version to have a longer stroke and around 15fpe at expense of some critical accuracy.
                The trigger is also a simpler unit though reviews suggest it’s pretty good.
                It also has the same basic barrel and lock mechanism though the barrel excludes the angular machining on the barrel weight etc.
                All in all this will be a good competitor for R9’s and Diana 34’s though won’t have the field target focus of the more expensive R11, LGV, LGU, or TX
                Should make a good squirrel or bunny gun 🙂

                • Dom,

                  Thanks for that info. I see the Century has the barrel lock as the LGV, whereas the Terrus does not. I am going to be very interested to see what they do over here as I have had an itch for a break barrel for some time now, but have not saved up enough for a Weihrauch yet.

                  • The Terrus, at least over her comes in at about $30 less than the Century, a little less again for a synthetic stock version, it will be interesting to see them tested back to back as the value of a barrel lock is a little uncertain at best, I suspect the accuracy of the LGV comes more from weight, a lack of recoil and a nice trigger and barrel than the lock up device, certainly the lack of one never hurt the HW98/R11 (Weihrauch’s FT team use them very effectively and the most accurate break barrel I’ve ever shot)
                    So I suspect it’s ommission is probably a further cost cutting measure on the Terrus.
                    Keep saving, if you can go the extra for an R11 it’s a far sweeter rifle than an R9…same parts as an R9 but blueprinted with the match trigger from the HW55T and a lovely stock and bull barrel.
                    My next rifle when pennies stack up

                    • As a guide, if it carries over your side of the pond, here the wood stocked Terrus with a rather good 6x42AO scope is $160 cheaper than an unscoped R9/HW95
                      Very competetive

    • I didn’t care for the fiber optic sights until I had a little vision damage. It’s pretty nice to be able to see that front post clearly against any background. I’ve been looking for my Glow-in-the-dark paint to touch up the front sights of a few of my guns…

      It’s not ALL armchair commandos, but I will be able to tell a lot more once my eyes are fixed. I’m REALLY looking forward to that!

    • Duskwight,

      I didn’t ask them because I know the answer. When I told them what airguns do to scopes back in 1996, they decided then and there to make all their scopes “springer-proof.” And that’s how they build them all today. That way they never have to wonder about a particular scope.


      • B.B.

        That’s really nice. Hope politicians from both sides will have enough brain mass to calm down and I’ll be able to test one of new Leapers scopes.


  5. Tom,

    The news that Leapers is moving production to the U.S. will put a smile on my face all day long! Manufacturing is what made this country strong and created our large middle class.

    And man does Hatsan seem to be moving up in the airgun world quickly! It wasn’t that many years ago that I hadn’t even heard of Hatsan, but now they are progressing so fast, I’ll bet they have all of the competition paying very close attention to them.


  6. B.B., it sounds like you need a break from this airgun innovation. I don’t know if I’ve ever figured out the value of a pistol/carbine. You get rifle capability, but you don’t seem to get much of a pistol. Glad to hear that Leapers is continuing to excel. I had a moment of doubt about them last night. After exulting in my new 4X32 scope which they sent as a replacement, I had a second instance where the sights appeared to move their point of impact. I thought that I had thrown a shot way low and left but the subsequent shots kept landing in that spot. Shooting at 5 yards, the inch deviation I was getting was huge. My faith in Leapers was shaken. But then I noticed that the whole scope was sliding back and forth on the receiver. The heavy recoil of the B30 had shaken it loose. Once I tightened things up, the rifle was drilling them in better than ever. Never doubt Leapers products! On the subject of scope mounting, the scope came loose very likely because I hadn’t tightened the screws enough. I’ve heard that if you overtighten the screws that directly hold the scope tube, you could compress the tube and break it. Maybe that’s why the first scope failed and the nitrogen leaked out. Obviously, the pressure I used for the new scope was too little. Is there any guide to knowing what is too tight? I ended up using the short end of the Allen wrench to tighten so that there was just a tiny bit of play without much effort and left it at that.

    I don’t believe I understand what is the achievement in the scope magnifications that B.B. mentioned. It’s not that the magnification is smaller as the achievement seems more with bigger numbers. My guess is that the achievement is in the range of magnification that does seem to increase in the various examples. But since a couple of the examples have the same range of magnification, it seems to be a combination of that and the size of magnification. Fortunately, my current 4X32 does the job for my short range.

    Gunfun1 and Buldawg, the blog has plenty of fans of Chairgun and similar ballistics programs. They seem to be based on the estimation principle I mentioned. In Gunfun1’s reference, the program calculates that a target that is elevated at 40 degrees from horizontal and 440 yards distant in a straight line has the same holdover as a level target at 335 yards. The geometry of the right triangle says that 335 yards is just the horizontal distance to that target which confirms that holdover is based only on your target’s horizontal distance from you and not on its elevation. If there is instrumentation like a computer program or mildots that can do the math for you, I’m all in favor.

    But if the aim is to compensate for different scope height, I think it would be much easier to adjust the scope height so that your eye is centered on the reticle rather than compensate for different scope heights with holdover. This way you only have to make the adjustment once rather than every time you shoot at a different distance. Between the various mounts available and adjustable cheekpads, you should be able to find a configuration that centers your eye perfectly. The only case where it couldn’t is if the scope is too low over the barrel in which case you should probably find a different gun. But the AR seems to have the opposite situation where the scope sits relatively high.

    I’m also not sure that holdover can compensate for incorrect eye position. Ballistic calculators measure bullet drop from the muzzle. I don’t see why they could also correct for the deflection of the eye from the other end of the scope. Parallax not being one of my strong points, I really don’t know, but there are things which make me doubtful. First your eye is way closer to the scope than the distances used for ballistic calculations. Second, your eye sees the scope in an absolutely straight line without the drooping trajectory of a projectile. Finally, an eye that is out of position could be deviating sideways as well as vertically, and I believe that ballistic calculators only work for bullet drop. For ballistic calculators to work in correcting for eye deflection as well as the very different process of bullet drop seems unlikely. I would be amazed if that actually worked.


    • Matt61,

      Keep the hold on your allen wrench the same. Don’t move your fingers or hand hold. Use the short end of the wrench to hold if in doubt. It will limit your ability to over tighten. Depending on your mount/rings,..make sure your stop is all the way to the rear.

    • Matt61
      Have you noticed your posts are getting longer.

      Matt you really,really need to check out Chairgun and use all the features that you can plug in.

      There is scope to barrel centerline numbers that you punch in.You can put in a certain diameter of target you want to stay in which is referred to the kill zone. You can input pellet weight and velocity you can put in the angle you shoot at. You can even put in wind mph.

      It will show you a graph of how much of the pellets trajectory will stay in that kill zone diameter. It will give you hold for different distances.

      You can get scope view of your reticle hold and also it will give you a tape reference that can be positioned on your side wheel parallax for range and holds. That can all be printed out yo put ob n your scope.

      And your definatly not following about eye position and hold over. That is two complete different things.

      You want to place your cheek on the comb of the stock in the same place everytime you look through the scope. You DO NOT move your head around for hold over or under. You ALWAYS look through your scope the same for every shot no matter how high or low it mounted away from the barrel.

      Now that’s all done when you look through your scope. DO NOT move your head around once you lock your sight picture in when looking through the scope.

      Now we move the barrel up or we move the barrel down when we point at or object we want to shoot. When you look through the scope you see all the dot that are egualky spaced on a vertical line of the reticle. When you put hold under in your shot at a closer distance you will put one of those dots on your target that is above the horizontal reticle. It will be a predetermined dot that will make your aim point hit your target . and that changes at different distances.

      Did I do better this time?

  7. I caught the latest episode of American Airgunner. In it, B.B. was showing a rifle in which there was an (adjustable weight) at the end of the barrel. I do not remember the gun, but the whole point was to negate the barrel “whipping” and therefore get more consistant shots by the pellet leaving the muzzle at the same OR near zero “whip” point each time.

    Any one got some thoughts on this,.. as it was the first I had heard of it in any of my readings

    • Chris, USA,

      Go and check out this blog series B.B. did back in 2006 & 2007; “Whiscombe rifles and barrel harmonics” – there are 4 parts. Just go to the top of the page and type it into the SEARCH box. A lot of insight into what can make the difference between an accurate or inaccurate springer.

      David H

      • David H.,

        Thank you. I made note of it and look very much forward to reading it. I do wonder why,…if this does make such a difference in accuracy,…then why is is not more widely known or discussed? Or,…even offered on more models. Though,.. it would seem,..this would be a refinement that only the most serious air gunner would attempt to perfect.

        Perhaps even,.. this would apply to fire arms more,..in that they would have much more “whip”.

        • Chris, USA,

          I think most airgunners go about it a different way. Instead of trying to tame the barrel vibration with an adjustable muzzle weight, why not get rid of that vibration altogether with a good professional tune? This will also have the added benefit of making the gun much more enjoyable to shoot.

          Another possible reason is the fact that unless you have a lot of testing equipment to measure the barrel’s vibration patterns (think accelerometer), the only way to “tune” an adjustable muzzle weight is by very painstaking trail & error accuracy testing. Of course if you really love the gun in question this may not be a bad thing.

          As far as powder burners go I’m not sure. I’m inclined to think that what vibrations are made during the ignition sequence will not have as much of an effect as airguns, since in most powder burners the projectile will not be inside the barrel nearly as long as in the case of an airgun. IE, the projectile has already left the barrel before the worst of the barrel vibration starts. But, that is just MY reasoning, I have no proof of that.

          David H

        • Cris, USA
          That would be called a muzzle brake that is a weight. Its a solid chuk of metal that adds weight. It does in no way quiet the gun.

          The reason that is used on a airgun is that the extra weight on the end of the barrel will in a sense keep the gun planted into the test so it does not move around as easy when the shot is taken.

          They also have dmpeners and weights that can be placed on the barrel to dampen vibration and oscillation by sliding into different positions.

          A lot of target and field target guns are heavier guns because it stsbilizes the gun. So it is thought. I believe that.

  8. Hatsan are pushing very hard on the US market but are on a bit of a back foot in the UK, the airgun press here never says a bad word about them (or anyone) but there is a thriving and VERY unimpressed online airgun community as regards their spring guns…..I’ve had three and won’t be having a fourth.
    Their PCP expertise has been lifted wholesale from Webley, even down to the odd little boing the old Webley Raider (great rifle btw if ever you see one) used to make, and that’s no bad thing, despite the childish tactical crap,the AT44 is a decent rifle if a bit unreliable, it’s definitely accurate.

    • Airgun World magazine in the UK have been running a technical section around the understandings of how a springer works in their mag for quite a while now, the articles done by Jim Tyler and Mike Wight are soon to be published in book form according to the grapevine. The testing they have done is very thorough and up there with work done the Cardews, and barrel harmonics is just a small part of it as well as coming up with formulas on how the rest of the power plant works. It’s fascinating stuff and seeing is believing is the only way i can convey the importance of their findings.

      The sooner this book is published the better as it will be a must for any any airgun tinkerer serious or otherwise, and yes barrel harmonics (nodes and anti-nodes) do play a vital role in the accuracy of any airgun.


      Best wishes, Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe.

    • Knife,

      Welcome to the blog!

      So you are saying that larger diameter lenses that are made possible by the larger scope tube have ne effect on light transmission? Because that is what I have been told by every scope manufacturer. They say the critical differences are in the smaller lenses that are housed in the erector tube that’s inside the main tube.


  9. That is exactly what I am saying BB. The only companys that I know of that any such thing is burris, and Leupold. Neither of which make lenses!

    Of course several Chinese companies make the claim as well.

    Companies that DO make their own lens will tell you differently!

    E-mail Zeiss, S&B. Swarovski, Dr. Optic, or IOR. They will give you the truth, not advertising gimmickry!
    Only the size, quality of the lens and the quality of the coatings can increase light gathering. Along with controling light scatter within the tube it’s self.

    And unlike what you stated on a previous post by you on the PA blog site, coatings “DO NOT” decrease light transmission. The truth is exactly the opposite. They are there to prevent light scatter and transmit light in wavelenths that the human eye can use more readily. giving a sharper, and less fatiguing image, while greatly increasing light transmission.

    And never confuse light index or exit pupil, with true light gathering ability. (Which sadly, is Never given here in the USA. All we get is advertising gimics.)
    One is a function of a mechanical formula regardless of lens quality. The other is all about lens quality. Unfortunately, No American Scope company gives this info.

    Look up comparison test in Europe, if you really want the facts.

    The highest rating from a often sold here in the US is 95% per lens. The top European Scopes are 99% for the entire scope assembly. a HUGE difference! (Multiply that 4% difference with the average of 5 to 7 lenses, and you begin to see the difference!

    Some of the poorest and darkest scopes sold here today, have the now ever popular 30mm tube. It’s in the lens Sir, not the tube dia.

  10. I have a question. Is there a good reason ,other than apparent lack of demand, that no makes a big bore ( larger than .25) break barrel air rifle? Based on limited physics knowledge it should be doable. The cocking force would quite high but not undo able.

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