by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- What is the 340 N-TEC Classic?
- Gas-spring advantages and disadvantages
- The rifle
- Shooting impressions
- Overall impression
Let’s begin our look at Diana’s gas-spring guns. Specifically, we’re testing the Diana 340 N-TEC Classic in .177 caliber. The serial number of the rifle I’m testing is 01583666.
I’m very cautious when testing spring rifles that have gas springs, because dozens of past tests have made me skeptical over the years. The claims for smooth shooting almost never pan out. The claims for accuracy are often inflated. The cocking effort is often played down when I find it to be a major influence in how easy it is to operate the gun.
I’ve seen fewer than 10 air rifles with gas springs that I could recommend to others. So, as I look at this rifle, I’ll be looking from the vantage point of a lot of past experience.
What is the 340 N-TEC Classic?
This rifle is built around the Diana model 34 rifle. That’s another spring rifle that has a lot of history for me. I remember it in the early days, when you could buy one for $90 discounted, and it wasn’t much better than one of today’s wannabe Chinese breakbarrels. Then, Diana embarked on a program of upgrades and transformed their entry-level springer into the best value for the money, in my opinion. And that’s what the 340 N-TEC Classic is based on. So, from the start, this is a rifle that has good genes.
But it has a gas spring! A gas spring is a self-contained unit that functions both as the piston and the mainspring. The unit contains gas under pressure that powers the piston when the gun’s fired. That compressed gas never leaves the gun and doesn’t push the pellet. It is the air compressed by the piston that propels the pellet.
Gas-spring advantages and disadvantages
Gas springs has many advantages. They maintain their power when the weather turns cold. They can be left cocked for hours without degrading their power. The don’t have to vibrate like a coiled steel mainspring does — although some gas springs vibrate more than they should. They’re lighter than the coiled steel powerplant parts they replace. These can all be important advantages.
They also have some disadvantages. When you cock them, the effort starts out at the full level the moment the barrel’s broken open, instead of ramping up like a coiled steel spring does. That effort comes at a point in the barrel’s arc that doesn’t have much mechanical advantage. So, gas-spring guns feel harder to cock than their actual effort implies. And they can sting and even hurt when they fire. This is the vibration from poorly fitted parts that gets transmitted through the stock and slaps the shooter in the cheek. It can be very uncomfortable to shoot some gas-spring rifles.
New shooters often ask if the gas inside the unit will leak out. While leakage is possible, in my experience, it’s not a problem with gas-spring guns. In over 100 gas-spring guns I’ve shot, I’ve witnessed exactly one that leaked. Edith’s 2002 Toyota minivan has twin gas springs on the rear hatch, and they still work well after 13 years of use — being fully compressed nearly all that time. And the gas springs in airguns are made much more durable than the disposable units found in cars and trucks!
I’m telling you all of this so the newer readers will know where I’m coming from as I test this rifle. I’m not going to pay any attention to the hype during this test. This rifle will have to perform on its own, and let the chips fall where they may!
If you didn’t know this was a gas-spring rifle you would think it is a Diana 34 by appearances. I chose the Classic because it is so nearly the same as the wood-stocked 34 with open sigthts.
The wood and metal finishes are very nice. The wood finish is smooth and even. The metal has a nice polish on all parts, and the blue (black) is deep. There are some plastic parts — the triggerguard and the front sight ramp — but the trigger blade is metal. I think Diana is listening to what airgunners around the world say they want.
The butt is styled in the Bavarian style. The raised comb is Bavarian, meaning that it slopes gently downward at the back, instead of being straight and then dropping down suddenly. There’s a perch-belly shape to the underside of the butt, and a scallop under the butt simulates a cheekpiece.
The butt’s comb drops toward the back, which is the Bavarian style. Note the scallop, which is on both sides of the butt, simulates a cheekpiece.
The sights are a hooded post with bead in front and an adjustable rear notch. Unfortunately, both sights are fiberoptic, but you can defeat that with lighting. The rear sight adjusts with very crisp detents, and there’s a scale for windage and numbers for elevation.
The rear sight adjusts crisply. Like the front sight, it’s fiberoptic.
The rifle I’m testing weighs 7 lbs., 12 oz. The listed weight is 8 lbs., 9 oz., but the density of the beech wood can easily affect the rifle’s weight by more than a pound.
I like the scope base. Diana has provided 2 deeper holes to anchor a scope mount that has a vertical scope stop pin, which is something they didn’t have on past models.
The scope base has 2 holes (arrows) for a vertical scope stop pin that look like they will really work.
The trigger is 2-stage and adjustable. The manual does not call it a T06 trigger, and it feels different to me, so I don’t believe it is a T06. But, it has a first-stage length adjustment as well as a pull-weight adjustment. The stated weight range is 400 grams to 500 grams. Since I’ve shot competition air pistol, I know that 500 grams is right at 18 oz. This is a very light trigger!
As it came, I could not feel the second stage. The rifle just fired as the trigger moved. I’ll adjust it in part 2 and weigh it for you.
I shot the rifle a couple times and can give you my initial impressions. First, the barrel breaks open very hard. It has a ball-bearing detent whose spring seems to be very strong.
I have to use 2 arms to break the barrel down initially, but the effort seems to lighten as the stroke increases. The barrel comes way past 90 degrees, so Diana is using a long stroke for greater power.
The firing behavior is not bad. There’s no painful slap when the rifle discharges. Of course, I’ll know more after I shoot it for accuracy.
The trigger is very light, but the release isn’t predictable. I hope I can change that with an adjustment.
The barrel is 19.50 inches long, which gives you a good, long lever to cock the rifle. Don’t even think of shortening it! Remember what Mr. Jones taught you about the length of levers in 8th-grade science class.
If this rifle is accurate, I don’t see why it won’t get a high rating. It has a good trigger, a nice firing behavior, it looks great and I like the scope base. We shall see.
71 thoughts on “Diana 340 N-TEC Classic air rifle: Part 1”
This is the report I’ve been waiting on! I like Part 1 so far! Except! The plastic parts and fiber-optic sights! Depending on the GRADE you give the 340 N-TEC’s? I might just take the bait? Semper fi!
There are several versions of this air rifle. The others either have the metal sights or no sights. Of course the price is higher. This one is the cheapest version.
Oh yeah…. cant wait for the accuracy test! !!
Dont mind if it cocks heavy. Dont mind a little buzz…… but accuracy is the most important thing! !!
But knowing BB….. he ll stretch the blog with some interval blogs (sigh):)
BB please make sure you test it at least at 3 different distances:
10, 20/30 and 50 meters/yards
And please try enought different brands and seizes of pellets.
Its 2015 now, we can not be bothered with inaccurate airguns anymore. We damand accuracy!
I was lookin forward to see a real-lifr test of this gun, BB delivered! !
You said “There’s no painful slap when the rifle discharges.”
Is the firing cycle and recoil a lot like the Beeman RX2?
No. I find the Beeman RX2 to be painful to shoot. This gun is smoother than an RX2.
I had the opportunity to shoot a Weihrauch HW90 in .22cal recently. Everything about the Theoben gas ram airgun appeared first rate, visually and mechanically. However, when the Elite trigger broke clean and crisp at 1lb10oz, the guns recoil gave me a right smart smack on my cheek bone I had not experienced with any spring piston airgun prior to this. My first thought was if it were mine, I would tune the gas ram from the factory set 21 ft lbs, to a more manageable, and enjoyable 14-15 ft lb. Or by simply adjusting your shooting technique to suit the guns power would help take the sting out of shooting one of these beasts. Evan after I had gone through 45-50 pellets , I did not find the 45-50 lb cocking effort to be too much a deterrent to enjoying a one hour shooting session. Again, attention to proper technique is essential. I also think one should shoot a tin of 500 pellets before deciding on any power modification.
I like this Diana 340 N-TEC Classic air rifle. The “modern” lines of the stock are a bit of a challenge to traditionalist in me. However, at least they didn’t go as far out as Gamo has done these last 2 or 3 years with their stocks. I have probably said it before, but I truly believe we are on the cusp of a renaissance in our wonderful world of airguns.
Sorry for the late reply and thanks for sharing your experience with the HW90. Now I know why the HW90 is not one of the best selling gun because cocking is too hard and you get a sharp jolt in the firing cycle. BUT is it accurate?????
Perhaps I missed it. Could you tell us what the cocking effort is for this Diana 340N?
I test things like cocking effort and trigger pull in Part 2.
Can the internal pressure of the 340 N-TEC gas spring be adjusted as can pressures within the RX2/HW90/RM100 air rifles?
The Other Mark B,
No, it cannot. At least not that I can see.
Great report. I enjoyed the education on the Bavarian stock as well as learning a bit on gas springs.
The trigger part of your report peaked my interest. ” The rifle just fired as the trigger moved” statement really got my attention. In fact, I read and re-read Part 9 on the TX200. I would like to adjust the trigger, but not really sure where to start.
The first stage is very light and long. At that point, the trigger stops. Further pressure fires the gun, but I can not say that there is a “clean break”. That’s about the best I can describe it.
(Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated). While I would record all adjustments so that I could return to the original settings, I did not just want to start turning screws without a better idea of what to expect.
What you just described is exactly what a trigger should be. It stops, then it breaks as pressure is applied.
Unless you can explain it differently I think your trigger is adjusted properly.
Thank you for the reply. As you know, I am fairly new and may not know the right words or how to properly describe trigger characteristics.
I just shot 5 shots, trying real hard to focus on just the trigger…lousy group by the way. 😉
Here’s the best I can say,…the first stage is smooth and very light,…at the end, the trigger stops and there is no further movement. At this point, (increasing pressure) is the only thing that will cause the gun to fire. (No movement) of trigger was noted during this increase in finger pressure.
**I guess, I would like to lesson this applied pressure. This is to minimize any “pull”.**
The manual states, the bottom facing screw (in the trigger), adjusts the “exact pull off point”. **This sounds like what I want.**
The front screw (in the trigger) adjust “the length of first stage travel”, which I feel is long, but have nothing to compare to. What is the advantage of a short or long first stage?
The last adjustment is under the trigger guard, which must be removed, is to “adjust weight of pull”, which I am not sure, what that means. First stage, second stage, something else?
I do know that this is a bit involved and TX200 specific and not everyone adjust their triggers. Plus, safety issues. That is why I am asking BEFORE doing something.
Also, I would like to hear from others, and you, how they would best describe 1st stage, 2nd stage, and release phases of trigger pull. I do not have a trigger gauge, but am willing to buy one, if I cannot borrow one.
I’ll weigh in with my 2 cents. There is no right or wrong adjustment of a trigger other than making it so light, it can go off if you bump the rifle hard. It’s what’s comfortable to you. I like a fairly long first stage. That is, the trigger moves “freely” and then comes to a stop. That’s the second stage. More pressure and the rifle will fire. Competition rifles have triggers that are so light, it seems that if you blow hard on the trigger, the rifle fires. Military rifles have very heavy trigger – 9 lbs or more. I just re-adjusted the trigger on my RWS/Diana 52 as the trigger was so light, I kept on shooting the rifle before I was ready.
Have fun and see what you like best.
Your “2 cents” is worth alot to me. This is something I have not seen much detailed info./discusson on thus far.
The manual does not state factory set, and without a gauge, I do not know what it currently is. From what I have seen, 16oz or 1# is about the normal (lower) limit. And yes, I have heard that too light, and it could fire just by sitting it down with a very slight “bump”.
I do appreciate your input very much,…Chris
The manual is poorly wriitten and not by shooters. The “let-off” point is the place where the trigger stops. In other words, the end of stage one.
The pull weight is how much effort stage twp requires to fire the gun.
It sounds to me like you want a shorter first stage. But fro9m your description, that trigger is working exactly as it should.
Just be sure you use the pad of your finger and not the first joint. That will let you feel the trigger most accurately.
Yes, I do use the “pad”, unless I forget. From your description, “pull weight” is what I want to adjust to reduce pressure needed to fire, which is the one under the trigger guard. The first stage, I can live with.
I move slow and cautious, hence the questions. You have stated that the TX trigger is exceptional as is.
And yes, the manual leaves a bit to be desired.
Thank you for your advice. Chris
Shortening the first stage (based on a limited sample of guns) tends to require turning the first stage screw deeper into the action. What this does is mean that even with the trigger all the way forward, the first stage screw has already moved the sear linkage some small distance.
Problem: Moving the first stage screw in may mean the second stage screw never touches the sear linkage and all you have is first stage (light pressure, long stroke). You then have to move the second stage screw again to have it engage at some point.
Problem: a short first stage, with a minimal second stage (the crisp “no motion as pressure builds to release”) will tend to be followed by lots of over-travel (unless one adds an over-travel stop to the trigger guard).
I tend to look on a long first stage as a partial safety mechanism — you have to be fairly deliberate to bring the sear to the edge where the second stage begins (many spring guns don’t have strong enough springs in the trigger system to reset the sear if you let go of the trigger — you have to recock the main spring to reset the full sear engagement).
A weight adjustment would control how much force is needed to move the trigger — but depending on the design, that could be nothing more than a pre-load on the trigger return spring; you may not feel a change in the second stage, but notice it during the first stage.
Forgot to mention the worst configuration — having the first stage screw backed out so far that most of the sear movement is handled by the second stage… That gives you a long second stage at high pressure; often a harsh creepy combination.
Thank you for that very detailed and yet simple explanation. Notes will be made.
You comment, (second paragragh), touched on something I read (in the manual),…
” Be aware that adjustment to one screw will affect the adjustment of the other and the trigger will only work properly if there is a correct balance between the two”.
From your comment, B.B.’s and FredDPRONJ’s comment’s,..I believe that (I will leave the 1st and 2nd stage adjustments alone) and will only try adjusting the “pull weight”. Notes of adjustment amounts will be made, to return to factory settings if needed, and I will also (buy or borrow a trigger scale) to verify impacts of adjustments.1/8~1/4 turns per, only.
No scale = no adjustments. Scale = Proceed….carefully, with notes and measured data.
Very good and informative comment. Thank you…Chris
That “worst configuration” I mentioned is how my Diana m54 T01 was shipped. I suspect some liability lawyers pressured the company or distributor to set it to the longest/hardest trigger pull possible.
I’d spent an evening fiddling with the first stage screw (including a small modification of grinding part of the [plastic] trigger blade to allow the 1st stage screw to go deeper); eventually discovering the 2nd stage was in so far as to prevent any first stage action.
And, as mentioned, a limited sampling: The T01 trigger, and a GRT-III on a Gamo (still needs adjustment) — the original Gamo didn’t even have a real first stage; it was just a trigger return spring until the second stage screw made contact. The GRT-III has two screws in the same configuration as the T01.
That sounds like a good trigger to me.
Does the barrel lock have the same ball detent as the regular 34?
My 31 was very hard to break open out of the box, but it became much easier with use.
Yes, the same ball detent. And you are probably right about it breaking in.
“Butt ugly” is the term that comes to mind when I see the second picture – pun intended!
I think this one’s ok. The Walther Rotex is hideous though 🙂
I have been waiting to hear about this air rifle since the 2014 Shot Show! I would really appreciate it if you could work this thing over good. The Luxus version is on my very short list.
There is something I would like you to check on this rifle after you have played with it a bit. I have been reading some very disturbing reviews stating that some owners have been experiencing the cocking getting rougher and are finding burrs, sharp edges, metal shavings, etc. when they remove the action from the stock.
If anything changes like that I will tell you. I have been waiting for this gun to come out, too.
So far I like what I see.
BB and all,
Back to the bumble bees for a moment. Yes, I know they are really carpenter bees. It just sounds better to play bumble ball than carpenter ball. Also, I have BB gun, not a CB gun.
Last year I did unsuccessfully experiment with building a trap and did not catch a single one. I fully intend to try so again, but for the moment it is so much more fun to spend a nice, sunny, pleasant afternoon playing with my BB gun and shooting them!
This 99 is awesome! It is not quite as accurate as the 499, but I can dump a bunch of BBs in it and blast away! Black Bart and his gang of outlaws do not stand a chance!
Obviously you knew all about this fellow “Tagdagger” with an AirForce One Talon. ++400fps with a bolt…absolutely unheard of in archery with rifle accuracy. Perhaps?
I don’t know Tagdagger but I have seen a bolt-firing AirForce gun. And it is Way faster than 400 f.p.s. Can’t say more than that, though.
I do not know if BB has heard of him, but there has been an aftermarket kit for some time now that allows you to shoot arrows and/or bolts with your AirForce air rifle. It has been so successful that FX came out with the FX Verminator Extreme a short while back.
Many years ago there was a company over here that produced the Airrow. It looked very similar to a Mattelomatic, but shot short arrows/bolts.
Thanks for this review. Just what I have been waiting for…..
When my Hatsan 95 Vortex was back ordered, I thought about changing over to the 340 N-Tec. Still have questions.
My Hatsan has splotchy bluing, a poorly finished stock, but boy is it accurate! Firing cycle is very quick. Love to see how it stacks up against this “other gun”. Keep the great reviews coming…..
BB, thanks for the report. The stock is not Bavarian style – a bavarian stock has a distinctly shaped cheek piece. Search “Bayerischer Schaft” on Google to see it. What you mean is a “Schweinsrücken” – a “Hog’s back stock”.
The Trigger is definitely no T06 trigger, as a gas spring has no central rod than can be caught by the sear during compression. Gas spring guns have to catch the rim of the gas spring. Same with Weihrauchs HW 90, which cannot use the standard Record Trigger.
From the images I looked thru, it looks like a Schweinsrücken Schaft, but ohne Bayerischer Backe (or Backen. Don’t know if they’re on both sides). I didn’t see any mention of Bavarian stocks, only Bavarian cheek pieces.
I think you are right. Maybe all Bavarian stocks are hog backs, but not all hog back stocks are Bavarian, with the cheekpiece and its style being one of the determinants. Some CZs have a similar stock, which is called “luxus” or something similar, just as a point of observation. Is “luxus” used to denote this style stock in some cases? I just don’t know
Luxus just translates to “luxury”. And indeed, a Bavarian style stock is usually found on high grade stocks.
As a Bavarian-born German hunter, I feel obliged to bring some clarity into this subject. In Germany, we differ between three types of general stock layouts:
1) English stock, having a straight grip (like the Bronco)
2) Monte Carlo stock, which has a pistol grip and a large raised cheekpiece
3) German stock – which is an ordinary stock with pistol grip. it either has a straight comb, or a curved one which is called “Schweinsrücken” (Hogs back).
The German stock has three traditional types of cheek pieces:
1) None at all
2) a rounded section called “deutsche Backe” (German cheekpiece)
3) A cheekpiece that looks like a sharply cut wing, and often has two or three steps at its outer rim.
German stock with German cheekpiece:
German stock with Bavarian cheek piece:
So what is the Diana N-Tec? Hard to say. I think it does not fit into any of the said categories, which are used to describe traditional stock designs.
Thank you for all this information.
This is exactly why I called the stock a Bavarian-style stock, instead of a Bavarian stock. I meant that it resembled one without actually being one.
Good report, BB. I have a lot to read from the past few days, since I have been off-line for a while. I will follow this report carefully, because gas springs and Dianas both have lots of fans around here.
There is so much interest here in gas springs that it sounds coils springs will not sell. Some manufacturers are selling imported rifles originally equipped with coil springs, and packing them with a separate gas spring unit in the box, so the shooter/buyer has an option: keep the original coil spring or remove it and give the gas spring a try. I like this, although I wonder if every shooter out there is capable of doing the exchange by himself.
You might check the pivot tension. The new Dianas I have recently purchased were too tight which increased the cocking effort.
The pivot tension is definitely tight!
“A gas spring is a self-contained unit that functions both as the piston and the mainspring.”
True for the HW90, but that gun is an exception. Most all gas spring guns now on the market, have a removeable strut nested in a very conventional piston. You can remove the gas strut from the N-Tec and throw in a coil spring; and it will work just fine that way.
If the trigger on the test gun is like mine, you will not be able to find a crisp breaking 2nd stage without installing a longer 1st stage screw. Post mod., very nice trigger, albeit with an unusually long 1st stage.
Mel: The Diana promo literature verifies the trigger is a T 06 (https://www.diana-airguns.de/fileadmin/pdf/katalog/N-TEC_eng.pdf). See 2nd page:
“340 N-TEC Luxus
Has fancy walnut stock, “Diamond”-checkering on forend and pistol grip, ventilated rubber pad, polished and deep black metal surface, metal sights with interchangeable front sight inserts and 18K gold plated T06 metal trigger.
340 N-TEC Premium
As 340 N-TEC Luxus, but with beechwood stock and black T06 metal trigger.”
While it doesn’t make trigger mention for lower trim levels, my belief is that ALL levels share the same trigger, and that the literature is making a color distinction here (because that’s sooo vital) for the Luxus/Premium. This is based on the manual, which has T06 instructions, but is not level specific.
This T 06 version of course latches on the underside of the piston instead of on a center rod.
Thanks for the link to the Diana promo. Actually, the cutaway on page 1 shows that the trigger is a modified T06 unit. All parts are the same, except for the sear that does not grab a central rod, but sits lower to grab the gas spring’s outer lip.
It is a promising rifle.
I don’t own a Diana rifle or gas spring rifle. I’ve considering buying a Diana 34 because of your positive comments. This rifle is more expensive than even the Premium 34, so it begs the question if it is worth the increased cost. The specifications indicate it is heavier, too. It is great news the rifle has a scope stop. It will be interesting to see if this rifle is a drooper.
I look forward to this report.
Great review so far. Can’t wait to see the accuracy test.
You commented that there are Chinese copies of rifles. What brands/makers are producing Chinese airguns? Are the knock-offs any good?
I have been bitten hard by the airgun bug. Three guns and counting. I don’t know how an airgun can get much better than a shrouded Talon with a 24″ 22 caliber barrel. That’s the standard I now measure airguns by.
Most of the Benjamin and Crosman spring guns are made in China. Then there are the Remington guns, and many others. There are so many spring guns being made in China today that it is easier to say which ones are not Chinese.
Are they any good? They can be, but their history hasn’t been that good. Maybe I should do a blog on Chinese airguns.
I think it would be great if you did a blog regarding the Chinese made airguns. Great idea!
Please put that on your mile long things to educate us about.
I’ll do the blog on current air guns manufactured in China. Here it is…
They can have as few as 2 major issues or as many as 12 and returning the guns for a replacement doesn’t guarantee any fewer issues. The main problem is poorly rifled barrels that even after extensive work on triggers, barrel pivots/repeatable lockup and replacing constantly moving factory sights since dovetails are so inconsistent as to make a scope at varying distances useless therefor not an option gives you an airgun with most major problems solved but with a poor barrel. Better trigger is possible. Better sights or nailing the factory sights on some is doable. Consistent barrel lockup is achievable. A poor rifled barrel is the norm and tough to overcome if you’re buying to a price point which is the only reason I have tried many and have had my fill.
What, no pictures? 😉
When I opened up today’s report on my computer screen, I was met with an image of classic beauty! No, not a pop-up advertisement featuring Elizabeth Hurley, but this gorgeously shaped rifle! I had forgotten how classic looking the current, non-compact model 34 is, having looking at pictures of the compact versions so often for so long.
Magnums are not my thing, but man, this is a handsome rifle, even with (perhaps because of?) its simple lines and lack of fanciness.
I recently purchased a Benjamin Titan XS 177 caliber air rifle. I fixed the horrible creepy trigger by installing a 5 by 8 by two-and-a-half millimeter ball bearing from a hobby shop that sells remote control cars. I also put a longer screw behind the trigger so the trigger safely breaks at less than a pound now. Some of the guys at the field target club that I’ve been shooting at have shot it and have remarked how smooth the firing cycle is. I’ve replaced the Center Point scope with a 3 by 12 by 44 Leapers SWAT scope. It fires Winchester 9.8 grain domed pellets at about 860 fps. I’m still not very consistent with the artillery hold but I recently put at least five shots within an inch at 50 yards so it seems that some of these guns can have potential if you’re willing to work with them. I’ll keep you posted on my results as I continued to shoot the gun.
Yes, please do. 😉
Add me to the list of people requesting a column on Chinese-made airguns. Most of my airguns are made in China, and they range from pretty good to pretty awful. The problem seems to be maintaining consistent quality control. My best and worst were the same model made by the same company!
Thank you for being honest about gasram airguns, i also have been disappointed by the ones ive tried. Very few live up to all their claims
>Edith’s 2002 Toyota minivan has twin gas springs on the rear hatch, and they still work well after
>13 years of use – being fully compressed nearly all that time. And the gas springs in airguns are
>made much more durable than the disposable units found in cars and trucks!
I’ve had exactly the opposite service life experience from automotive gas springs. I’ve never had one last 13 years–at least to the point that it would fully support the vehicle’s “lid,” and I’ve owned several of them over the years in both foreign and domestic vehicles. I’ve also never had electric door locks and windows that didn’t suffer problems (sluggish or unreliable movement) after somewhere around a decade or decade and a half of use. Thus, I tend to be a Luddite when it comes to these “features” in my vehicles and I prefer not to have them. I also live in a colder climate than where you and Edith live.
It’s good to hear that airgun gas springs are more durable than their automotive cousins.
I agreed. NOne of the gas springs in any of my cars last, some leak slowly and performance drop even after 3 years.
My last three vehicles with lift-gates have all had the struts replaced during my ownership.
They tend to be okay in the summer, but when one gets temperatures in the mid-40s or lower begin to show a loss in strength after a few years.
I think I’ve got maybe two years left in the second set on my Jeep Cherokee (which is 14 years old — so about 8 years per set of struts; the prior vehicles were sold around the 10-11 year mark, after one strut change)
We’ve had 3 minivans over the years we’ve been married, and I’ve never had a problem with any of the gas springs. Two of the minivans were from the time we lived in Maryland. None were garaged, all sat out in frigid winter temps, baked in the hot/humid summer temps and none got any special treatment.
Edith, were they all Japanese? The reason I ask is that it’s a known fact that the Japanese insist on extreme quality from their suppliers – not so the Americans or even European car manufacturers. That’s why after 8 or 10 years, things like window motors and door locks go FUBAR on those cars but the Japanese cars seem to function without problems.
The older ones were a Ford and a Dodge/Plymouth. The current one is a Toyota.
That’s interesting, Edith! From my experience, your reports, and the reports of others, automotive gas spring longevity seems to be a mixed bag. I’ve never owned a Chrysler product with gas springs but my Ford Mustang hatchback gas spring lost more power than I’d like. It did function better in its second decade of life than many others, however.
I would not be at all surprised to find airgun gas springs to be a mixed bag too. Nonetheless, I’d certainly never claim that wire coil springer springs last any longer than gas springs, if the gun is used frequently. I think wire coil springs also tend to break unexpectedly whereas gas springs typically lose power gradually.
Besides metal springs breaking unexpectedly, they can lose power due other reasons. And I believe I’ve heard of gun gas springs losing all the inert gas in one fell swoop. The incident I’m thinking of happened many, many years ago…during the early days of gas springs. Both metal and gas springs have their good and bad points. You have to pick the one whose bad points don’t bother you as much 🙂
Agreed. Like gas springs, metal springs typically lose power with cycles in any given application too, I was just saying that I believe metal springs have a greater tendency to fail suddenly than gas springs. However, I’ve also read of at least one airgun gas spring that leaked and failed suddenly. I bet you and B.B. know of others! It might be more common than I know.
Though I’ve not done a survey, I suspect that most airgun coil springs will eventually require replacement due to breakage, whereas most airgun gas springs will require replacement when they become too weak to satisfy the shooter. Of course, even a broken coil spring can often result in a reduced-power but perhaps functional airgun and a number of non-ideal replacement springs (a stack of automotive valve springs with appropriate preload spacers?) might be fitted to an airgun in a pinch. I view this option as a big plus in a survival gun. Finally, coil spring spares should last for many decades, (if not better than a century) if they are protected from corrosion. I would not trust a gas spring spare to last for decades!
One of the three vehicles I reported on was a 90 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo. Same thing as a Mitsubishi Eclipse, with different aerodynamic trim. Built in what, at the time, was called Diamond-Star Motors (Mitsubishi 3-diamond logo, Chrysler star logo).
I somehow doubt a single assembly line was using different struts for the Eclipse vs the Laser (the engine was fun too — a Chrysler water-cooled turbo on a Mitsubishi DOHC engine).
Looks like the rifle still has the terrible plastic front sight. You want to grip the end of the barrel for better leverage but you can’t because it’s a piece of fragile plastic.
Also, the front post is too wide and the fiber optics suck. Is there anybody who actually likes fiberoptics on an “adult” airgun?
It’s a shame actually, because the micrometer rear sight is really nice except for the green inserts.
I think this stuff belongs on tacticool toy guns for the kids, not on expensive rifles for adults.
I swapped my barrel for one from a “34 Classic” and put on the front sight from an old LP5G. Much better…
DIANA: Use quality open sights again, install a rubber buttcap and make a decent scope rail and the 34 would be pretty much perfect.
When I have a good day, I sometimes catch a glimpse of the accuracy this thing is capable of. And then I do something stupid like pull a shot 🙂
I wish Diana replace their open front sights with peep sights like in HW rifles.
Bb, the ball detent sounds just like the one on my 34p. It will loosen up a little, but stay pretty tight.
The cocking is the only major feature that I think needs work on the 34s. An articulated lever like on the 350 and even on the Ruger clones of 34 makes a huge difference.
Sounds like it is TO6 trigger after all, maybe you could check reset after incomplete trigger pull, as I think that is what separates the 6 from other Diana triggers.
I also hope you do a blog on Chinese airguns. It should be very interesting. Any idea when the report on 2400KT by HiveSeaker will happen? Thanks for another great report.
Welcome to the blog.
All I know is that HS said his next report would summarize the series. I expect to see it soon.
Very nice review as always,you are a great help with addiction that a lot of us suffer from (buying more air guns) I’m really looking forward to hearing more in part two. Have a blessed day all.