by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
MeoPro 80 HD spotting scope from Meopta. Image provided by Meopta USA.
This report covers:
- Bright and sharp
- Not-so-smart phone
- Real image
- Second test at 200 yards
- What’s next?
- Photos through the scope
Today I will describe how the smart phone worked with the MeoPro 80 HD spotting scope. First I will report that the Permatex epoxy I used is holding fine. I took the spotting scope and smart phone adaptor to the range and it held the phone perfectly. So, that part works.
First I set up the scope on my Bogen medium-format camera tripod. It is rigid on that mount, which it has to be to see bullet holes in black bullseyes at 200 yards. And the Bogen tripod is as smooth as the scope, allowing perfect alignment with the target.
My original spotting scope mount was too flexible for the heavy MeoPro.
Bright and sharp
I mentioned in the last report that the MeoPro 80 HD was able to see holes at 200 yards that a Redfield spotting scope with similar specifications (20-60X and 80mm objective lens) could not. That is due to the ion-assisted MeoBright lens coatings they put on with those $1.5 million machines. They eliminate glare and transmit 99.7 percent of the light that passes through each lens element. That gives you the TO2 (twilight optimized optics) that extends your viewing times at the critical beginning and end of the day.
Meopta’s sporting line makes good use of all that expensive optical machinery they use for military and industrial applications. Image provided by Meopta USA.
The HD Fluoride objective lens element eliminated chromatic aberration that’s seen as color fringing, by bringing the light wavelengths into a single common focus along the optical axis. You get vivid resolution and color fidelity in challenging lighting situations. All of which is good for viewing, but not for smart phone use.
Meopta lenses are ground from the finest glass, then coated with proprietary coatings to optimize light transmission and scratch resistance.
When the phone camera looks through the spotting scope it sees things fine, but then the automatic software controls kick in and try to adjust the image to look like something that falls within the parameters of their planned use. In other words, the software committee didn’t prepare for this application. Maybe there are ways to get around the automatic controls on my phone camera, but they involve more interaction with software I am not comfortable with. I will tell you what I plan to do about this at the end of this report.
I also had to shade the lens heavily to cut down on a bright flare of light. I could hear the phone adjusting the camera continuously to make sense of what it was seeing.
Looking through the spotting scope, the iPhone camera would not focus better than this. And I had to shade the objective lens heavily to eliminate image flare.
The target you see in the image above shows 5 shots at 100 yards from my AR-15. I cleaned the bore after more than 300 rounds were fired because my groups were starting to open up a little. That group shows the first and second shots landed apart from shots three through five.
Here is the actual target seen in the image above. The last three bullets went into as group that measures 0.344-inches between centers at 100 yards. This nis the kind of accuracy my AR-15 gives when everything works right.
Second test at 200 yards
The real test on this day was at 200 yards. The last time I was at the range I had fired 4 rounds at a target at 200 yards. The group was hovering near the 1.5-inch size between centers. I saved the target and re-mounted it for a second test.
After I was sure the rifle was shooting its best, as evidenced by the three bullets in the small group at 100 yards, I fired a fifth shot at the 200-yard target. That’s right, the fifth shot waited two weeks after the first 4! And, to my utter satisfaction, it went to the center of the 4 shots, not opening the group by anything. Those 5 shots are in 1.643-inches between centers!
The fifth shot at 200 yards from my AR-15 was fired 14 days after the first 4. It went to the center of the group (arrow).
This spotting scope is the finest telescope I have ever owned. After a half-century of putzing around with el-cheapo spotting scopes that had great specifications but didn’t deliver, and buying name-brand scopes that were sourced from China (sound familiar?) I finally bit the bullet and bought a spotting scope that really works. Yes, it was expensive, but you know what? It cost me a lot less than all the money I wasted on those other disappointments.
Photos through the scope
I intend taking pictures through this scope, but I will use a digital camera that I can control. There are many rigid camera mounts for this purpose, and when I select one I will run another report that will hopefully show you the image resolution I am seeing.
78 thoughts on “MeoPro 80 HD Spotting Scope: Part 4”
I have been into photography my whole life.
I embraced the digital age when it came into being.(anyone remember the Kodak/Nikon DCS200c?) My first foray into the digital camera world.
But when the lights got low, and it positively HAD to look good, I still used film.
Even today, there are great digital cameras, that you have lots of control over, but you are still at the mercy of the computer.
I may be old school, but a good MANUAL, FILM camera running a low ISO film sometimes just can’t be beat for absolute control, and image quality.
If you don’t get a good image, it’s YOU, and not the computer (because there isn’t one.)
That being said, I must be getting too old, because when you got to the technical aspects of the lens making process I heard this
“The HD Fluoride objective lens element BLAH BLAH BLAH, BLAH,BLAH, BLAH. All of which is good for viewing, but not for smart phone use.”
I believe, just like vinyl records are doing now, film will have a resurgence.
LOL! I am with you man! I read the same thing you did! I’ll bet BB did also. He just reprinted their marketeering blurb.
I carried a fully manual Minolta for thirty some years. I finally let it go and have a real nice digital Canon, but I do miss that old Minolta.
I don’t have a smart phone either.
Low light, you need higher ISO!
Sorry 45 Bravo, film will not be making a major comeback. Too many chemicals in the development process.
Type writers, manual transmission cars, rotary dial phones are not coming back….
Yes I know you need a higher number for low light, but the lower ISO films have a finer grain.
And if you have a long exposure time, and paint your subject with light, you can bring out more details.
Ask BB, I guarantee you, some of the images he has posted over the years on the blog has had exposure times in the SECONDS time frame.
It’s not all about speed and throwing an image on the page, it’s about showing people the details they either need to see or you want them to see in an image.
Manual transmission cars are the newest anti theft device to keep a millennial from stealing your car.
Kids these days will never know the satisfaction of slamming the receiver down on a phone to end a call.
Tapping the end button harder just isn’t the same.
Maybe not a major comeback, but film regain popularity with some people.
I was surprised to see Polaroid and Fugi have produced instant film cameras in recent years, and everyone thought that platform was long dead..
Wow! You armorers can certainly wax poetic when you want to!
Yes, I have taken some exposures that lasted for seconds and I do paint with light.
With digital photography, though, it’s hard to relate to that/
B.B. and 45Bravo,
For years my wife did art photography and had four one-woman shows at area college art departments. She often describes photography as “painting with light.”
For the longest time she wanted to get (but was never able to afford) a Hasselblad with the Polaroid back. Imagine a world-class medium format system with Polaroid! With her Land Camera she would take the film out seconds after the shot and manipulate the chemicals with a stylus such as a capped Bic pen. In the darkroom she also used razor blades to scrape off parts of the negative image and watchmaker’s screwdrivers to draw on negatives before she would print.
How that takes me back! I have drawn on B&W negatives. I’ve also shaded B&W prints with a charcoal pencil. Forgot about it until now.
My daughter is in her last year at the Kansas City Art Institute.
She has had many photography classes over the years, every so often,
I would pull one of my cameras off the shelf and give her lessons in it, and send her on her way.
Her first medium format camera was a Yashica 124g.
I eventually found her a complete Mamiya 645 kit cheap.
While not a hassleblad, it has served her well.
Hello from an old PsyOps guy! Have you visited her in our fair city? I’m in Overland Park, KS — just a few miles from KCAI. I was down by there a couple of weeks ago, at the Nelson-Atkins Museum. I highly recommend it if you get this way.
Yes we have visited her many times, been to her many art shows, in addition to moving her up there.
And the occasional get away to see her and the grandson.
The last time we went to see her, the royals were playing, and we had to stay at a hotel in Overland Park, the only one with a vacancy.
It was in a rough section.
I am with you on the low ISO and slow shutter. But I am also lazy and impatient and digital gives me instant results.
I sold all my film cameras several years ago when I started getting reliable results from digital cameras, though I will admit that today’s example certainly runs counter to that.
Any decent DSLR will give you the RAW file to play with.
As well as offer all the manual control any film camera has.
Vinyl records are for hipsters. Vinyl is a terrible medium. The warm sound those folks rave about is a defect not a feature.
For the instance here, this was just a lack of manual controls. The image sensor and processing system on the phone-cam are just fine for the job, this does not require ultra-low-noise or super high colour fidelity, etc. I can’t speak to an iPhone, but all this would take on my Nexus (Android, of course) is to go to the manual mode and disable the automatic exposure. Quick adjustment to get it where I want it, and it’d be doing good work through the scope.
That being said, it’d be a lot EASIER with a SLR to get the shots you want, but it’s a lot more of a pain in the butt to get a SLR packed into your pocket. Plus, all the extra weight of a full-size camera hanging off of the eyepiece would require a more robust mount, etc.
Nah, digital is the right media for this, just needs the right software.
I was fairly sure it was possible. I’m just not the one to do it.
One of the awesome things about the state of current technology, I think. Don’t want to do it one way? There’s only 943 more possible ways to reach the same end goal, pick one that’s more to your taste! 🙂
Before you toss the smart phone bathwater, try “tap and hold” on the screen. That -should- lock focus and exposure, with an “AE/AF lock” message on screen.
If you have siri active when the camera is running, you can say “take a picture” to release the shutter. I’m not sure how well that would handle the range noise, but I doubt your phone would suffer permanent hearing loss.
Thanks for that. I guess I didn’t really give the phone a fair shake.
Like you pointed out, mounting a camera to it will likely do much better once you learn how to program the camera. 😉
I plan to run the camera in the manual mode. Yes, that still does mean there is a computer involved, but it doesn’t make any of the choices — I do.
I hope I can do better, because this scope certainly deserves it!
Nice shooting! 🙂 You did make quite the good point towards the end there,… ” it cost me a lot less money than I had wasted on all those other disappointments”. That takes on different meanings for different people,.. but the main point being,…. you will have more left in your pocket when it is all said and done.
My regrets?,…. maybe scopes. My UTG’s are great and can not say enough good about them. Is there better? I am sure. They do well out to 100 yards,.. and for airgunning, what more do you need? I did my homework and bought the best I could for what fit my budget at the time.
I think that it was confirmed in the last article that a large outdoor outfitters “house brand” scopes are made by Meopta. If I were to ever “buy up”, I would have to give those a real hard look.
A good day to all,…. Chris
Thanks for noticing! I hoped someone would spot that. My AR, which I dislike in principal, is not only the most accurate rifle I own, it is also the most forgiving.
I apologize for not commenting on your accuracy in this blog.
Good shooting there.
And never dislike any weapon that shoots good, no matter how it’s action works, or the materials it’s made from.
This is an interesting report that brings up the important topic of obtaining critical focus from a digiscope rig. You probably already know that what you want to do is focus the camera’s lens to infinity and then use the scope’s focus wheel to sharpen the image. Almost any point-and-shoot that allows manual adjustment of focus will work. It helps if the camera lens’ diameter is close to that of the scope’s eyepiece. You can mount the camera and then zoom the lens out slightly until it almost makes contact with the eyepiece. This will cut down on glare, although it may reduce the field of view somewhat. Point and shoots are actually better for this application than DSLR’s because the additional size and weight of the DSLR hampers handling and adjustments.
As I previously wrote, I went over to the dark side of telephotography with conventional supertele’s because digiscoping rigs are not good for active subjects. They should work fine for recording shots on paper targets. And those big, white lens tubes attract women as well as a Corvette does; you just get the attention of nerdy women instead of the “cool” ones. Of course I learned this after I became happily married, so it it is merely a curiosity. Please remember that we all love you out here, including many who don’t comment. It would be understandable if you wanted to retire after all you’ve been through in the last year. I’m very grateful that you haven’t.
Nerdy women need love, too! As do nerdy men, for that matter! 😉
One further remark: we found it necessary to magnify the image shown on the camera’s LCD viewfinder to determine the best focus. I used a jewelers loupe, and it allowed me to wring out the last bit of sharpness.
Here is a moon shot we did with a Canon A-95 point and shoot attached to my TV-85 with a standard eyepiece clamp mount : https://www.flickr.com/photos/boggybayou/3172722508/in/album-72157624689913059/
And that is why many medium format refles cameras have magnifying lenses built into their hoods.
Yes we do! Wish we had the term, “nerd” back in the 60’s. Had to make do with “square”.
Yes, that’s a cool factoid. I remember the Rollei and Yashica TLR’s and Bronica and Hasselblad medium format SLR’s. Got to play with a couple of them, but mostly stuck with 35mm rangefinders. My first attempt at afocal photography involved attaching an Argus C-3 to an Edmund Scientific Newtonian Reflector in 1969. Because the Argus is a rangefinder, I had to place a piece of specially cut ground glass over the film plane and then use a loupe to achieve focus. Then I loaded the film and shot, trying not to nudge anything. It worked a lot better on daytime targets, and taught me how exacting you have to be with telephotography. Sort of like trying to shoot very tight groups.
Thanks for listening…BTW, there should be a way to make your phone work, but that is beyond my meager knowledge. I see lots of very good digiscoped shots made with phones.
It often seems that the topic relates to something I want! Like Tom, I own an inexpensive 20-60×60 mm spotting scope. Mine gives me enough resolution to see .177 target hits at 50 yards, but it is a pain to get it all set up, and requires me to orient my headbone as rigidly as the scope. So, I have been looking at something as tech-y as the digital camera. Its a camera in a box with WiFi. See http://www.bullseyecamera.com
There are others, Caldwell makes one. I think using this with an iPad will be great for sighting my field target rifle. Of course, it requires that you can go downrange and put the box near the target. Does anyone have experience with these?
I was just advised by the Meopta PR rep that the data sheet I read was incorrect. Meopta lenses in this scope actually transmit 99.7 percent of the light, rather than 98.7 percent. It makes a big difference!
Gotta love the AR, don’t you? What load are you running in that, Tom? Looks like you found one your rifle really likes. I’m considering picking up some 10-round Magpuls for mine, I have been running 20s since I got the rifle (I’m not a fan of 30s, they do weird things to my rifle’s balance, IMO) but even the 20 is still a bit bulky for bench shooting. They’re great fun for standing-sling-supported or kneeling positions, but not so much for the bench. Fives or tens would be ideal there, I think. I tend to shoot five-round groups, so a ten would be just about right.
Hit enter before I finished the thought there. I’m running 69-grain Match Kings in mine, over H335, or BLC2 for the most part. I actually get SLIGHTLY better performance out of Varget, but that’s been hard to find locally lately. Starting to come back now, but I have a big enough pile of the others that I’ll burn through some of them first. The difference is marginal enough that my own shooting needs to come up a ways before I worry too much about final load tuning.
It’s been awhile since I reviewed my AR-15. Maybe I will do a report on it?
My load is very mild, but it’s also too long to feed, so I am loading the rifle single shot.
You should! I get a kick out of ARs, largely for the great accuracy, fun, and how many possible ways you can build and customize one exactly to your liking. I loved erector sets as a kid, now I can do the same thing with a rifle!
I’ve never tried over-length loads in an AR before, just in my bolt rifles… Huh, I might have to pick up a loading tray!
While not the same as your AR, I have the .25 M-rod with an RAI stock. It accepts a lot of AR parts. Plus, without the need for a buffer tube w/spring, the RAI offset adapter allows for the stock to rotate 360 degrees,.. L,R, UP, DOWN. My “liking” has more to do with (fit),… but it still looks darn good when done.
I was more of a LEGO guy as a kid. 🙂 Chris
Hehehe, there ‘ya go! Same deal, being able to build up the rifle exactly to your own preference… it’s just plain fun! : D
I would like to see a report on your AR.
You should try your phone in the HDR mode. I can get some really sharp pictures with my phone on the gun scopes.
So I think that the sharp pictures could be had with your phone on your spotting scope using the HDR mode and if you focus your scope first before you put the phone on the scope. The phone will only see what you see in the scope lens. Then the phone focus’s to the scope lens. Same on videos. That’s what I have found anyway after messing with the scope focus more with video’s. I’m finally starting to get some sharp video’s now at longer distances with the video’s on the gun scope. Just thought I would let you know what I have found with my phone and the Iscope.
I looked at the camera and HDR was turned off. I will try it again that way.
Ok please do. I’m interested to see what you think.
This off subject but I mentioned that I got the Python last week and I have been wanting to try a semi-auto blow back pistol.
Well I just ordered one of these. It shoots steel bb’s. But… It came with a free tin of 500 of the copper plated smart shot lead bb’s. Imagine that. And I did order some more tins of the smart shot. If the smart shot work like I hope in this pistol I can see myself getting more bb pistols and using the smart shot. But here’s the gun.
Oh and I did read back through BB’s review on the pistol before I chose it. I think it’s going to be fun little shooter.
GF, please let us know what you think of the pistol after you’ve fired a 100 rounds or so. Also please give us your thoughts on the Smart Shot bbs too! Looking forward to it.
Sure will. Suppose to be here Thursday. Will definitely ring it out over the week end. Excited to see how it does myself.
If it shoots nice with the smart shot I see myself getting other steel bb shooting pistols that I looked right over in the past. Darn looks like I will be working more overtime again. 🙂
GF, I’ve been reading a lot of good reviews on smart shot out of bb guns. Everyone claims while it is slower, it hits with much more power. Guys with the Umarex Morph really like it with the gun in rifle “mode”. It’s got my interest. Making me look twice at bb guns again.
Thanks for that info. I like the slower fps when plinking cans. It gives better energy transfer to the can. I think anyway. That’s what I like when I plink. I like to see the object go flying. Heck i was making a can dance this last weekend with the Python and the 1077. Been a long time since I done that. 🙂
Well now,…. since you are in the process of jumping over to the “round side”,….. you might as well toss a 499 in the shopping cart.
Did you try the smart shot in yours by chance? Interested in knowing how they do in a 499. I think BB tryed them if I remember right in one.
No I have not. I have about 1500 of the Avanti Precision Ground Shot to finish off first.
Bob M’s comment was interesting, (just below). You, as well as I, will put a whole lot more than a couple of hundred down the barrel of whatever it is we have. Sounds as if a bit of caution is in order for all of us high volume pistol plinkers.
Yes I was glad Bob posted about that.
There’s something I see with the Python and the Brodax that could be a problem to with high volume shooting. When the clip rotates for the next pellet to be in place it rubs the black seal where the air comes out. I guess I should say out of the transfer port hole to the seal. The Brodax and Python both push the clip forward towards the barrel when it rotates. But still it’s wear to the seal. Sooner or later air will leak past when the shots taken. But hey they are on the lower cost side so it is what it is.
Oh and I don’t really want a 499. I have plenty of single shot rifles. I’m looking for pull the trigger as fast as you can kind of shooting like I use to do in my younger days with the .22 rimfire semi-auto guns.
I got the 1077 so that is filling the need rifle wise. And I have the Python that will pop them off as fast as I can pull the trigger. And now the blowback slide pistol is comming. The only thing missing is a full auto pellet shooter. I had one of these and it was very fun. And I shot it with steel bb’s. So now that the smart shot is here I may try one again.
And here’s something I would like to get. Pyramyd Air don’t sell them so I guess it’s ok to post the link. It’s on Amazon.
So a Steel Storm shooting the smart shot would do me good for a while. But I would like the full auto pellet shooting SMG.
Converted to HPA? I thought that there was another one that someone linked awhile back, but maybe this is it.
I guess your talking about the SMG.
Read the link I posted. It can be converted to HPA. And I do believe someone posted a link a while back about it also.
And there is a attachment for the Steel Storm to hook up a bottle fed co2. So that would be a easy HPA (low pressure compressed air) conversion there too. Kind of like what me and Buldawg did with the 88 gram co2 cartridges for the 1077. About 1200 psi is what mine runs on when I use HPA in it.
Good show GF1 . I will also be watching for your views on this pistol and the Smart Shot BBs. In reading BB’s review of this pistol, he mentioned the possibility of auto fire when the CO2 gets low. Nuts, I got rid of my last PO8 blowback because it was going into auto fire . I am mentally creating a check list for using blowback BB pistols. Don’t let the CO2 get low, Don’t fill the magazine to full capacity, to avoid the possibility multiple feeds, and perhaps use the Smart Shot BBs to avoid internal parts damage by the hard steel BBs . Also proper lubrication of the slide area . We can sure learn a lot by reading this blog.
All good points. And that Steel Storm would go full auto when the co2 went low also.
I’m excited about this pistol. Always liked the blow back guns. The working toggle on the po8 has always amazed me I can see one of them in the future if the smart shot copper coated bb’s work out. So many I always wanted but never got because they shot steel bb’s.
That smart shot may have arrived just in time. I hear the new ‘BB’ firing Colt SAAs are rupturing the thin barrels after a few hundred shots. Evidently a slight misalignment between the cylinder cone and cylinder, and perhaps the cartridge itself are causing the BBs to hit the edge of the forcing cone and deflecting it into the side of the thin barrel. Rear loading of the BB in the cartridge also allows it reach full power before it hits the cone edge.
I will only use this lead smart shot now. It may help until someone figures out a solution like stronger barrels or a front of cartridge BB installation. May have to use pellets?
Noticed stronger rifle barrel conversions being done.
Thanks for that info. I do have the bb clips that came with the Brodax and the Python. So I will be trying the smart shot in both of those pistols too. I hope these smart shot lead bb’s work. I will be a happy camper that’s for sure.
GF & Colt SAA owners
l found out about the bursting barrel problem from someone on the Yellow. Links to u-tube video about it there also. I found the Dan Wesson BB cartridges are too short to seal air and the Colt Python cartridges are too long and prevent the cylinder from centering in the cone. I have noticed a lot of the BB cartridges have off center holes in them that may contribute to the problem. I actually found one that was drilled out with a countersink. Perhaps some testing was being done on it or it was just a bit ragged when made.
Hopefully the ‘pellet’ version cartages of the Colt will work in the ‘BB’ pistol without causing damage.
Here’s the clips that are used in the Python and Brodax I have. A little different than what your talking about I believe.
Here’s the type I believe your talking about. Right?
If so I can see where that could be a problem what your talking about.
Yes they are different. I started out talking about the lead BBs and got carried away with the Colt SAA bursting barrel problem. If you don’t have the Colt six shooter it may be hard to visualize the problem and how the lead BB may help reduce it.
I’m having a problem accepting the fact that the collection of various Colts I have may have a short working life if I use steel BBs.
I understand exactly what you mean about cylinder to the barrel misalignment.
Could it be that something with the way the cylinder is indexed needs tightened up some way.
I know that the Brodax I have seems to index the clip more precisely than the Python. Just a thought without actually seeing the pistol.
O man. Definitely let us know what u think of that new issc. I have no interest in bb pistols usually, especially ones in that price range. That one stands alone IMO. If I ever bought one it would be that particular one. I’m anxious to see how the smart shots do in it as well.
I never was one for steel bb’s. There has been numerous guns that I like throughout time that do only shoot steel bb’s and I have looked the opposite way because of that. So if these smart shot work out like I think they will I’m going to be a very excited person.
But check back in this weekend. I plan on giving the m22 my full attention this weekend. Heck I shot a little over 900 pellets last weekend between the Python and my 1077. So you betcha I’m going to give the m22 a work out. 🙂
that’s cool. Sounds like you need to empty a few cans this week. Better take some quarters to work. 😉
I have one more Lil toy headed my way. A slavia 618. It should really blast cans around with that slow pellet. plus other benefits. Easy shooter. Can hand off my 30 to a novice and have a challenging round against them etc. We will see but I got it for $26 bux so I’m pretty excited about that. Even if shipping was almost as much. 🙂
The mrod trigger will come in a while. My job has been weird lately.
Family stuff last weekend. Pretty much no shooting. Saturday is supposed to be cool so hopefully I can get a big day in. I may work so hard to tell. Ill definitely be checking in to catch an update on the newest member of the action team.
Oh but I have a few feral cans running around. They seem to come in packs of 12. Occasionally they show up in packs of 18. You just never know from one time to the next. 😉
And that sounds like a heck of a deal on the 618. And I’m thinking it will get along just fine with your hw30. 🙂
Don’t forget about the Mrod trigger. I think you will be surprised how much difference it will make with your Maximus. Got to get that Maximus happy ya know.
Yeah I hear ya. I see a lot of litters of 12 around here, this time of year. Summer is when the colony seems to grow the most. The wife is always nurturing the miniature colony. Those guys are more of a challenge. 😉
Yeah ol Maxine needs to accesorize. Hopefully work picks back up. I’m ready to “reach out”
Good practice them ole feral cans. Sure have taken a bunch out in my time.
But seriously I hope work picks up for ya. But do let me know if you get the Mrod trigger.
I don’t have time today to contribute my normal, incisively brilliant analysis (;) but a couple of observations.
A: The weak point of mounting any camera on the eyepiece of any scope featuring an eyepiece is almost inevitably you’re going to run into problems with the image plane. In other words, the eyepiece of a (spotting or astronomical) scope is that it’s designed to work with the curving surface of your retina. There’s also an extra optical element or two) in this optical design which is the organic lens of your eye. (Two if you’re using glasses or like me, contact lenses.) This is not to say it’s impossible to make it work, even acceptably well, but it’ll never be as good as what the prime lenses imaging on the flat surfaces of a digital sensor, or even film, is capable of. There’s a LOT more to this issue, but as almost any astronomer or terrestrial user of long lenses can tell you, there are more than a few aberrations in or out of the world.
B: To excaberate this issue is the deep-seated need on most manufacturers to save a few bucks on the ultra-critical eyepiece, apparently figuring the ultimate purchaser won’t know the difference. Often they’re right…unfortunately. What then happens is very disappointing performance to the newbee who then either goes on to something different and perhaps more satisfying, or keeps spending more and more trying to get what the picture on the box promises.
Very occasionally this is achieved…
The lesson is, Life is short, spend the money, get what you want, you almost always get what you pay for. (Well, divorce settlements and many investments may be the exceptions here.)
C: Bad news for the Fuji instant pack-film users, they announced earlier this year that at least the color pack film
Is discontinued. (Polaroid brand roll film has been gone for decades, Polaroid brand pack film has long been replaced by the Fuji brand to be used in your Polaroid cameras from about 1965 onwards. It was a far better product than the Polaroid brand pack film and way better than the Kodak-manufactured-sold-under-the-Polaroid-brand-name-and-the-technology-then-stolen-by-Kodak-to-make-the-even-more-inferior-Kodak-branded-instant-product. Whew!
And then got caught at it. Nice work that, Kodak.
I was out today doing some chrony work on a HW30. Readings were coming in between 610-620 fps. About half way through chocking the gun my hand slipped off the barrel and the barrel bounced back. After that I noticed my reading started to run between 595-605. There were clouds moving through during this time and I had gotten the odd 595 or 600 reading before that which I attributed to ammo or various other factors. Could I have damaged the gun or am I just being too technical?
IMO,… too technical. 20 spread is good, 10 is great. Under 10 is count your blessings. I think you are fine.
I would check the breach seal to see if it got damaged in the unintended slam shut. I would also shoot to check if the point of impact changed.
In retrospect 15, 10 and 5 might be more in line. But you get the general idea. Plus, with pellet variations,…
Look at it again on another day. When a gun breaks the velocity usually drops 80-150 f.p.s. or more.
I am worried whether the barrel was bent though.
Does anyone have a Beeman R9? What caliber? If you were getting one, or have had one, which caliber would you recommend for that rifle? Uses would be light hunting — rabbit, squirrel, things like that — recreational target shooting. What caliber do you think best suits that rifle’s power plant?
I have the hw30s. I have it in .177. I have taken sparrows easily 15-20 yds with the longest at 25.
If you step up to the .20 Cal you will need a good scope for your holdovers. I definitely lose 3+ inches of elevation at 30yds or so with a 13yd zero. Accuracy is still good. I’m shooting with irons though. I mainly plink so I haven’t measured out these distances precisely.
You have to define your range. I’m not sure but I don’t think you will get quite 8ft lbs with a
.20, you will have to check? I would say it is possible for it to meet your needs though. I shoot my hw30s the best and always pick it for the occasional sparrow. (The birds have been wary of me since then)
Wanted to clarify. Possible to hunt under very strict parameters. I have 2x the power at the muzzle I need for my quarry. You will be at the rifles limit. Meaning your shooting and ranging will have to be nearly perfect. I am not a hunter though. Hopefully someone who is will weigh in as well.
All that being said, I do wanna try one in .20 Cal.
Thanks! I have the HW 50s, in .22, and haven’t put a scope on that yet either. I really like shooting it with open sights. I was thinking the HW 30 was the equivalent of the Beeman R7, but I’m not sure. There’s a refurb R9 on PA right now, in .22. I was wondering if that would be a good match, or if it was underpowered for .22. I don’t own anything in .20, although I’ve been thinking about it.
O yes I definitely made a mistake! I have researched the R9. It always confuses me because the R1 is the fastest so in my brain I have it twisted that the R9 would be the slowest. Especially since I know the weirauch models a little better. I have been wanting the the “dressed down” hw95.
Anyway. I have read a lot of people have had great success and from what I gather an R9 in .20 Cal is somewhat of a classic. I’m not sure how far your wanting to stretch out but the R9 will have way more reach than the 50 as you have guessed. I have read mixed reviews on the .22. The main argument is the old flat trajectory vs power. It depends on your opinion of your 50? You will shoot flatter than the 50 adding around 100+ fps. Depending on the pellet it likes. For the game you are after the . 20 seems popular. At least more so in this platform than many others.
I wish I had hands on experience to tell you. (Especially since that would probably mean I owned one 😉 ) Good luck and let us know which way you go! 🙂