Gamo’s Urban precharged air rifle: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

Gamo Urban
Gamo Urban.

This report covers:

  • Gunfun-1 was right!
  • The Urban
  • The issue
  • The silencer
  • JSB Exact Jumbo
  • The baffle
  • The fix
  • Groups with baffle in
  • Point of impact moved 2-inches to the left
  • Last group
  • Conclusion

Gunfun-1 was right!

I will open todays’ report with an admission that reader Gunfun-1 was right about the Bug Buster scope on the Gauntlet. It worked well at 25 yards, but I tried to shoot the Gauntlet at 50 yards on Friday and the thick crosshair of the scope had me guessing by 1/4-inch where I was aiming. Also, the image at 50 yards wasn’t as clear as I would like. So — GF1 was right and I was wrong about the right scope for the Gauntlet. I will change scopes for the 50-yard test.

The Urban

There is a lot of interest in the .22 caliber Gamo Urban I’m testing. I’m glad to see that the conversation remains civil and open to change as the test progresses. The Urban is a great new PCP and I want to give it every opportunity to perform at its best.

The issue

In case you haven’t read Parts 1 through 3 (especially Part 3), the Urban I’m testing had accuracy issues at 25 yards that I traced to the pellet nicking the last baffle in the silencer. Today we will look at that and also re-test the Urban at 25 yards.

The silencer

We’ll start with the silencer. Knock out two pins and the end cap comes off, giving access to the baffles. The pins came out easily. They are roll pins, but all I had was a regular pin punch that worked fine. As one reader mentioned, the baffles are in two pieces, split down the middle. One side has a completely round bushing on its end that fits snugly into a tube around the barrel. This ensures the correct alignmemnt of the baffles.

Gamo Urban silencer apart
The baffles inside the silencer are made in two parts. They are molded from plastic and take their final shape from the inside of the silencer can.

I will come back to the baffles in a bit. I had now removed any interference from the baffles, so I wanted to see how the Urban performed. I filled it to 3000 psi, which we learned is the start of the best part of the power curve, and went to 25 yards. The rifle was still sighted in from the last test, so I could start shooting immediately.

JSB Exact Jumbo

I started with JSB Exact Jumbo pellets. The first shot was extremely loud! I knew it would be, but I wasn’t prepared for how loud. If the group was tight I would complete the test with the other two pellets, but if not, I wasn’t going to listen to this longer than necessary.

To cut right to the chase, this group was horrible! I was shocked as I saw it grow though the scope. Clearly shooting without the baffles was not the answer to the accuracy issue! Ten pellets landed in a scattered group that measures 0.848-inches between centers.

Gamo Urban no baffle group
With the baffle removed the Urban put 10 JSB pellets into a scattered 0.848-inch group at 25 yards.

Well, I wasn’t going to listen to this noise any longer if this was the best the rifle could do. So I went back to study the baffle closer.

The baffle

Upon close inspection I discovered that the baffles have flashing left over from the molding process. Yes the pellet nicked the edge of the last baffle, but only because some flashing stuck out into the pellet’s patch. I examined all the baffles and found that only the last baffle was a problem, and only one side at that!

Gamo Urban last baffle
This is the view from the inside. I know it’s blurry, but you can see the flashing I’m talking about.

Gamo Urban last baffle outside
Here is a clearer picture taken from the outside. The flashing really stands out!

The fix

There is no need to drill out the baffle like I said last time. Flashing can be scraped away with a pen knife, which I did. Then I assembled the end cap on the silencer and was ready to continue the test.

Groups with baffle in

I took the rifle back to my benchrest and settled in for a second group. It was shot with the same JSB Exact Jumbo as the first group. And man — was it quieter! That silencer really does its job!

This time 10 shots grouped in 0.795-inches. That’s not a lot better than the first group, but look closer. Nine of those shots are in 0.385-inches and only shot number 4 opened the group all the way. The nine shots are also very round, which means the Urban is a consistent shooter.

Gamo Urban JSB baffle in
After the baffle was cleaned and reinstalled, here’s what the Urban did. That’s 10 shots in 0.795-inches, with 9 in 0.385-inches.

Point of impact moved 2-inches to the left

I was surprised to see the point of impact had moved a full 2 inches to the left, but I did hammer on those end cap pins to get them seated. I wanted to try another group, to see if the POI remained constant, and also would I get any fliers in the group this time?

Last group

I stayed with the JSB pellets for this last group, as well. Might as well pin this thing down securely and not leave any loose ends!

This time all 10 pellets went into 0.406-inches. There were no fliers, though one pellet on the left does stand apart from the rest.

Gamo Urban JSB baffle in 2
And here is the second group after cleaning out the baffle. Ten shots in 0.406-inches at 25 yards.

This group is exactly the same distance to the left of the aim point as the previous one, so there was no shift. I then adjusted the reticle on the scope to bring the shots back into the bull.

Conclusion

I do believe that the baffle touching the pellet caused the bad groups seen in Part 3 of this report. I also believe that the problem is solved. I’m kind of glad this problem cropped up, because it gave me a chance to show new shooters what can be done when they encounter problems like this, and also what can cause accuracy problems. Several readers suggesting just shooting the rifle would have solved the problem, and they are right. My way is faster, but no better than shooting the problem away.

I didn’t shoot the other two pellets today, but I don’t believe I need to. I solved the baffle issue, which was the best use of my time. I will shoot the other pellets at 50 yards, so we will get a chance to see how they do once more. Fifty yards is next.

97 thoughts on “Gamo’s Urban precharged air rifle: Part 4



    • B.B.

      Thank you so much for continuing the test of the Urban, and for delving into the problem with the baffles too. Did you decide to remove the baffles at the suggestion of Pyramyd, or just on your own? Appeared to be a simple fix, and it’s great that you showed us how to correct that problem should we experience it. Did it take much force to reassemble those roll pins. It wouldn’t seem good to drive them back in without supporting the moderator in some way though.

      We look forward to your further tests. I think the Urban owners would like to see you try different pellets to achieve better groups when you do the 50 yard accuracy test. The 50 yard test should definitely show which pellet performs best in the Urban. My Urban seems to like the JSB Jumbo Heavy 18.13g best.

      Geo


  1. B.B.,

    Before you shoot the 50 yard test you also have to select a better scope to use for the test. It wouldn’t do to solve the baffle problem then hobble the 50 yard accuracy test with a sub optimal scope.

    Siraniko


  2. Another intriguing report?

    My Urban is on its way from Paul B, and he says it shoots very well. Looks like BB is getting better than 2 MOA at 25 yards, and that would have been enough to make me happy. Never really expected a 1 MOA target gun. I had considered it to be a lightweight super plinker, which influenced the Bugbuster 3-12 as my choice for glass. I want an all-out bantam weight PCP that can take down a menacing rodent at 40 yards.

    I’d guess that the work needed to correct the baffle interference caused the POI shift. Hope the effect of toting it around and propping in the corner does not have as much effect as the baffle surgery.


  3. B.B.

    Why would the group without a baffle open up like that? Turbulence in the baffle-less tube? The silencer attenuates the sound but does it also act like and air-stripper?

    Any thoughts on this?

    Hank



      • Way back when I did a blog about re-crowning a Benjamin Nitro piston air rifle that wasn’t shooting (/blog/2011/03/recrowning-the-benjamin-nitro-piston-air-rifle/) I removed it’s end piece which was part of the shroud and tried shooting it as one time reader Duskwright suggested. Like your results, the groups were terrible leaving me to believe that the crown on a barrel meant to receive a baffle or end piece/cocking aid/shroud, is not a finely finished operation. I suspect the manufacturers designed the end piece to do that job so do not invest money in the barrel crown per se.

        Fred formerly of the DPRoNJ now in GA


    • Hank,

      That is exactly what is happening. It usually works best if the first baffle is within 1/2 inch of the muzzle so as to strip the air away before it has the opportunity to cause deflection or turbulence as the air blast will move faster than the pellet once it leaves the muzzle.

      Although my Webley Tomahawk has a “muzzle brake” on it, I have one of these in my Wish List for it.

      https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Hatsan_Air_Stripper_For_Select_22_Cal_Hatsan_Air_Guns/4557

      You typically do not have this issue with firearms because in most the projectile is moving faster than the muzzle blast. A muzzle brake on a firearm is typically used to reduce muzzle rise and/or recoil. If designed properly it can also reduce or diperse the muzzle flash.


  4. BB
    First off part 3 doesn’t pull up when I click on it above. And here is something interesting. That was the blog report that the comments got erased. I googled that report and found this. And guess what. It’s got all the comments. So I’ll post it here so you can see.
    /blog/2018/04/gamos-urban-precharged-air-rifle-part-3/#comments

    And about the Bugbuster scope. It was the Bugbuster (and) the precision rings on the Gauntlet that I said was wrong for the Gauntlet. And that was mainly because the forward located loading port made it difficult to position the scope for eye clearance. Well and the shimming the rings on the dovetail. Other than that I like the Bugbuster scope. They are just tricky to get mounted on some guns.

    And here is what scope you said you have on the Urban at the beginning of part 3.

    “Scoped
    I mounted a 4-16X50 Leapers scope that is obsolete, and is unlike any scope they make today. But 4-16 power is the key.”
    And I believe you may of confused people above about the Bugbuster on the Gauntlet. I believe they are thinking you have the Bugbuster on the Urban.

    And about the baffles. I’m thinking also like Hank said. Air turbulence was probably affecting the pellets.




  5. BB,

    I do not see this as the air rifle for me as I do not particularly care for the stock, but should I come across one looking for a home and the price is right I may have to make room for it at RidgeRunner’s Home For Wayward Airguns. I could see my grandson growing into it.



    • RidgeRunner,

      Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I for one like the skeleton thumb hole synthetic stock. It makes the Urban light and compact. When I see a sparrow or starling on my bird feeders, I can pick up the Urban and carry it by the pistol grip with the barrel pointing downward. It’s short enough to be able to carry that way and is much preferred to the very long springer breakbarrel airguns weighing 9# to 10#. It’s just a lot handier for me and works very well for my needs.

      Since I’ve gotten the Urban, I have not missed a single starling, or sparrow. Though Iwill admit that I have not had the opportunity to shoot any at 25 yards plus yet. I think the sparrows know they would be in grave danger if they roosted on one of my bluebird nesting boxes this spring.


      • Geo,

        Beauty is as beauty does and obviously you think she is beautiful. There is no doubt that she is quite capable. She could be uglier than a mud fence in the rain at midnight, but if she fits you and does what you want when you want she is a super model.


        • RidgeRunner,

          Well I put the Urban to the test. A few days ago I saw a male sparrow perched on my furthest bluebird nesting box at 35 yards. I went outside and used the corner of our screen room to brace against and took a quick shot. That sparrow will no longer be trying to occupy the bluebird’s nesting box. This was my second kill shot of a sparrow at 35 yards. The Urban has proven to be very accurate at 35 yards.


          • Geo,

            🙂 It does not get any better than that! Get your hold overs and under down on paper when you get a chance and create a cheat sheet for your usual yardages and there will be no guess work. At 8ish to 35ish yardages though,.. you should be in a 1″ kill zone.

            By the way, I put the same scope on my Maximus that you have. It came off the TX. I was able to use the rings that came with CP scope that came with the Maximus. I have it sighted in at 13 yards indoors which happens to be the 1st zero on Chairgun with 34 yards being the 2nd zero. Crappy weather here over the weekend so no outside shooting for me.

            You have not mentioned,… but I do suppose that Mrs. Geo is happy that you are finally getting some great results after all the trials and tribulations? She is “on-board” with your full out critter assault?

            All Winter I have watched at least 10 squirrels and a new ground hog that seems to have taken a liking to munching on the new spring grass in my yard. Now if I can just get out.


            • Hey Chris,

              It seems really good to know that when I have a target in the crosshairs, that’s where the pellet will land. With my Urban zeroed at 32.8 yards and a 1/2″ killzone, my PBR is 13 yards to 36 yards. So no holdover or under needed within that range. If I have to shoot from my garage service door to my feeders then that is 10 yards. At 10 yards Chairgun shows 0.52″ holdover and 0.9 mil-dots at 6X. So that’s when I have to remember to use a little holdover.

              I still have to try that aluminum foil trick with a small hole over the objective lens to get a good scope height measurement. I made some measurements will calipers and got 1.90″. But using that technique I had to add three separate measurements. It will be interesting to see how the two techniques compare.

              Our weather was really nasty this weekend too. This morning it was 34º and freeing rain and sleet. On this day a year ago it was 83º and sunny.

              BTW, are you still only seeing five comments using the RSS feed? They must not do any IT work on weekends. Maybe they will get it fixed tomorrow sometime. I’m surprised you even found my comment today posted in last Tuesday’s blog. There’s like 167 comments in Friday’s blog but only five show up in the RSS feed so it’s very time consuming to go through the entire blog searching for new comments. 🙁


              • Geo,

                Yup,.. still only 5. I will be up the proverbial S creek in the AM before work. Oh well. B.B. said his was fine, so go figure. I leave mine set to the RSS page while cooking and doing other household stuff. With only 5 though, I really have to be on my toes. As you know, things can get real busy, real fast.

                On the scope height, a tape and eye ball works good enough. I have done more extreme measures in the past though. Mine is 1.5″ with the capped front bell 1/8″ off the barrel with the new set up.



  6. The most interesting finding to me in this report is the poor groups without the baffles. I’m assuming the shroud was on but baffles removed causing turbulence in the empty shroud. I wonder how it would perform without the shroud. I would expect equal or better than with a shroud, unless as was suggested the baffles have a balancing effect. Given that they are light plastic this seems unlikely. Maybe a stabilizing effect through physical contact.

    I found this about Marauder barrels. Maybe some of you know about the choke issue already. I’m curious if anyone knows how choke is achieved. Seems it would have to be some shrinking process after rifling.

    https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=42287.0

    Also this FYI regarding Crosman replacement barrels.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2376&v=fjqD18qF6kM

    Not too encouraging regarding quality control on Crosman barrels. To my understanding a barrel does not have to be perfectly straight to be accurate but this is very bent and the crown is bad.
    With all his detailed work I’m surprised he did not measure bore and choke.

    I got into this in considering guns for grandkids. The Disco and Maximus were contenders. Whatever I buy has to have a decent barrel. This seems to be a hit and miss proposition with Crosman. And yes I know there have been efforts at improvements. I also know they don’t cost a fortune.

    I suspect the BSA barrel on the Urban is a good buy.


    • Idaho
      I have had a bunch of different Benjamin and Crosman pcp guns and the only problem I had with accuracy was one .22 caliber Marauder rifle I had. The other .22 Marauder rifle I had was good. People have talked that for some reason the .22 caliber Marauder rifles had issues.

      As far as the other 20 or so Crosman and Benjamin pcp’s I have had. Theyhave been very accurate guns.

      And this is speaking from exsperiances. Not what I read.


    • Idaho,

      I know Motorhead the post on gateway is 2013. Crosman has changed the process they use on the Marauder usin the process the have for the Maximus barrels. Motohead talked me into buying an aftermarket hammer forged barrel for my .22 caliber Marauder and I have been completely happy with it.

      I do not have a new process Marauder barrel in .22 caliber the early versions are the ones with most of the issues. So personally I have not tried one. I will order one to test as soon as I can be sure of getting the new process version.

      I have five or six Maximus barrels on various guns and they are all accurate. They are more accurate with a muzzel weight.

      Don


    • Idaho,

      I have had 5 1/2 oz. of bronze bearings/tubes in the M-rod. At the time it seemed to help. I have also shot it with no baffles or weights. I have it back to baffles now and plan on doing some more testing this year. On the LGU, the tube is open (no baffles) and added weights in it. That is the way I shoot it to this day. The Maximus did poor with a Hatsan air stripper, but good with a baffle insert for a Crosman NP. It is the Hunter version with a 1/2-20 thread.

      So, I find it to be a mixed bag on what works. Air turbulence definitely plays into things. Weights do help with muzzle rise and may affect barrel oscillations, but that could be negatively or positively. If you have the choice or option on a gun, I would definitely recommend playing around with different configurations. That is my “2 cents” on the topic. While only a guess, I would suspect that some accuracy has been given up in lieu of silence,.. at least in some cases,… from an ill designed baffle system and lack of testing.


      • Chris

        Interesting stuff. I does seem right that any shroud has the potential to hurt accuracy if not done perfectly, and it seems less likely, but possible to make one that serves both to silence and improve accuracy through harmonics, stripping muzzle blast, reducing muzzle rise, and whatever else.


        • Idaho,

          I highly recommend the Avanti 499 for a kid, if that suits your need at all. “Word” was a bit back that they may be off the market soon. For a bb rifle, you could not ask for better. Just something to consider.


  7. GF & Benji Don

    Thanks for the feedback. If Maximus barrels are consistently good I may consider that gun.

    I am still drawn to LW and BSA barrels when I hear of one model Crosman being clearly better than another.


    • Idaho
      I have had Lothar Walther barrels on Crosman and Benjamin guns.

      Some Lothar Walther barrels did better than the Crosman/Benjamin barrels. And some guns the Crosman/Benjamin barrels did better than the Lothar Walther barrels.

      Imagine that.


    • Idaho

      If your plan for the Urban is plinking with your grandkids, you may be interested in knowing that I was “plinking” at a small tomato paste can( in case you don’t cook, they are less than 2 1/4″ diameter and only 3 3/8″ tall) this afternoon. I set the can on the ground at 75 yards and was still busting it after it had move back to 93 yards from the impacts. This was with Crosman Hollow Points, using a 4-16 X 40 AO IR scope that I paid less than $50 for. The scope came with Piccy rings so I did have to spring for a set of cheap 11 mm ones to get it to mount on the Urban. I don’t think I’ve ever had so much fun shooting.

      I you like, I can take the butt plate off my gun and snap a pic so you can see what you would be up against if you try to shorten it. I measured the LOP once but I forget what it was.

      Half


      • Halfstep

        That would be much appreciated. If it looks “doeable”, unless something else catches my attention, my 2nd PCP will likely be an Urban.

        Today I built a target stand with a PVC pipe base, firring strip risers, and suspended vinyl poster board that turned out well. I plan to make a couple more. We will have a covered porch to shoot benchrest, and a wooded trail around the perimeter of 5 acres to do field target.



        • Idaho,

          I was going to build a target stand too but then I discovered something that worked better than anything I could have built. I found an old realtor’s sign lying in the ditch. It works perfectly for a target holder. The frame is constructed of small angle steel with strong cross braces. I painted the whole thing black and attached four of the spring type paper clips to hold the target at all four corners. This keeps the wind from flipping it up. Realtors have to pay for their own signs. Possibly one would be willing to sell one to be used as a target holder.


          • Geo

            During election season you can uproot all those corrugated plastic signs that get left behind. They wobble forward and back in a strong wind but a long forked stick will usually wedge it into the wind enough to hold it still.

            Half


          • Geo

            I think you can get frames like that at hardware stores?

            I’m quite happy with what I built. Didn’t cost much. I added a small roof to keep rain off the paper targets since we get a lot. I’ll post a pic tomorrow. I imagine most of you are in bed. I’m always a late poster being in the west. Actually I noticed the next blog is up so I’ll put it there.


        • Idaho,

          Here’s the pics. The two bosses that receive the butt plate screws run way down into the stock and they are parallel so if you cut the stock the butt will reattach with the same screws. The comb slides onto the stock in a diagonal direction towards the front of the gun. It locks into those protuberances and the rubber butt holds it. The comb is hollow, so if you remove much of it a different butt plate will be needed to cover the end of it, but as for locking into the stock, there will still be plenty of contact with those locking lugs. The butt plate itself it rubber over molded onto a substantial metal insert. Trimming it down won’t be an option. There aren’t any recycling marks on any of the plastic parts but I can hear glass fibers when I shave it with a box cutter so I would sat that it is nylon with glass reinforcement. It is very stiff. How much would you have to shorten it for your kiddos?

          Half



          • Halfstep

            That’s great. I was going to ask LOP but forgot so thanks for that.

            My grandaughter is 12 and already 5’6, so not much adjustment needed.
            The grandson is 10 and not much over 5′ but big for age and will hit a growth spurt before long.
            I’ll have to check his needed LOP with what I have. Of course at his age I shot whatever and did OK. I may just have him shoot it as is, but if I could get even a half inch off it would likely be good for both of them for a while. I’m fairly handy with epoxy and such so perhaps it can be done. What do you think?


            • Idaho,

              I think that the granddaughter can probably use as is and the grandson would make due with a thin non rubber butt plate. Something 1/4″ thick would get rid of 5/8″ Also, I should note that the trigger was all the way forward when I measured. Since it is adjustable, the first stage could be set so it didn’t engage the sear until it has been pulled back quite a bit. I can back out the first stage adjustment to give max rearward travel and remeasure if you need it. No trouble at all.

              Here are two more pics that I thought might be required depending on what kind of mod you are thinking of. One is of the rear with the comb in place and the other is a side view of the whole rear stock in profile.

              Half


              • Halfstep

                I think you are right, that butt pad is thick. I’m fine with your LOP measurement. I think where the issue would be is getting the cheek in place, not the arm if you know what I mean.
                Thanks again.


                • Idaho

                  The continuous rail for the scope gives a lot of room for adjustment provided you’re not trying to fit a compact scope. Did you see the results I got today plinking at 75 yards with a $50 Centerpoint scope?

                  Half



  8. Just In News ?
    Bear River MX 1000. Semi Auto ‘ Pellet ‘ Rifle. 800FPS 90g CO2 bottle enclosed in the forearm. Comes with 2ea.12 round rotary mags that are enclosed inside rifle when installed with a long upper Weaver rail on top and a short one for a bipod with adjustable fixed sights.
    $160.00 …. from them. This looks very interesting !
    Bob M



    • Bob
      I just checked it out. Finally found it is .177 caliber. And all it needs is this adapter and the regulated Air Venturi HPA bottle could be used to convert it to HPA. Or for that fact the Ninja bottle the Gauntlet uses.

      That’s what I like about these regulated HPA bottles. Easily can convert Co2 guns over to HPA.


      • GF1,

        I agree that this looks interesting but as for HPA or Bulk CO2, that may be harder than it first seems. I recently saw some stuff on shooting the Gauntlet with Bulk CO2 and 90 g cartridges and there were some Paintball CO2 cans that were too big in diameter. I looked at all the pics for this gun and it sure looks like that 90 g cartridge is sucked up mighty tight against the underside of the barrel to me. How big around are those things? I’ve never actually seen one.

        Half


        • Halfstep
          Yep saw that on the Gauntlet too.

          The 20 oz bulk fill bottles are the ones that are to big for the Gauntlet.

          Believe me. I already checked into this on the Gauntlet. And by that I mean I looked at the description of the different bottles and cans of mpared dimensions of the bottles. Plus al I ady having some of the bottles and 88 gram cartridges helped out too.



        • Halfstep
          The 13 cu in. Ninja and Air Venturi bottle are pretty much the same diameter as a 88 gram cartridge or a 12 oz Co2 bulk fill bottle.

          It would be one of those things where you would have to get the gun and see if the HPA regulated bottle would work. No big deal if it wouldn’t accept the HPA bottle. I would be happy with the gun on a 88 gram Co2 cartridge.

          Still sounds like some fun cheap fast action shooting to me.


          • GF1,

            Do you think that the loose wheel type of mag would give a better double action trigger pull than the 1077 and Wildfire box mags. If the dang thing is halfway accurate it could be a lot of fun and HPA would be awesome.

            Half


            • Halfstep
              I think it would probably be a easier to pull trigger. Seems like there would be less working parts. But you never know.

              And like I just said to Brent below. The more I think about the 1000 the more I want one. It’s definitely high priority on my radar right now. I was going to wait till the end of the week to call about it but I m going to call tomorrow depending on how my time goes.



      • GF1
        I really don’t want to make it easy for PA’s competition with a direct link although BearRiverOutdoors is not really much competition. They have some of what I would consider dressed up existing airguns but some may be manufactured just for them from the start and this may be one. They definitely have some fresh ideas.
        I have that adapter on my MCX with a paintball skeleton bottle stock. You can probably use a twin 12gr CO2 cartridge case also.
        Bob M


        • Bob
          Yep they are not on the same level as PA.

          I like semi-auto type guns. Actually alot. I’m sure I will end up with one of these MX1000’s sooner than later.

          I keep trying to save my money up for one of the Hatsan Sortie-tact’s when they get released and then this 1000 shows it’s face. That lower price makes it hard for me to pass up.

          I think I will call Bear River Outdoors before the week’s end and talk to them about it. But I do like it and thanks for telling about it.


  9. I’m going to borrow a friend’s Urban and Hill pump to try it out next week when I’m on vacation. I’m excited about the Urban; the Hill pump not so much. I am starting to lose interest in the Nova Vista Freedom because I realized it will be a 10 lb plus gun with a scope. I’d like something in the seven and a half to eight pound range with a scope. Getting tired of lugging these heavy airguns around. I’m working on a paintball gun to pellet gun conversion to that end. That Bear River CO2 gun sounds really interesting since it’s along the same lines. I find my modded Sportsman 900 very accurate out to 30 yards.



      • Will do. I’m afraid I’m taking a Missouri attitude towards the mx1000. Show me that it doesn’t have a heavy double action trigger pull and then actually shoots lead pellets at 800 FPS. I’m hoping that it’s a less expensive version of the Hammerly 850 rather than a more expensive version of the Crosman 1077.


        • Brent
          Missouri attitude. And how do you have that? You live in Missouri? I live in Illinois but have worked in Missouri all my life. So know what you mean about the Show Me State attitude. 🙂

          But for half the price of the Hamerli 850 I’m thinking the 1000 will be a good deal if it does hold up.

          When I get one I’ll (show) you how it does. 🙂


  10. I hear of airsoft guns mentioned often. Can someone explain to me what an airsoft gun is, and how it differs from a pellet gun. I thought airsoft guns were more or less toys so I have never had any interest in them and know nothing about them.


  11. Geo791
    Go to ‘Wikipedia’ and enter ‘airsoft gun’ in the search box. It has everything you could ever want to know.
    It would take a lot of space to describe the Airsoft concept.
    Bob M


  12. Here’s a mod I did to the Urban’s fill hole cover. Now I just have to rotate it to fill and rotate back to cover. Less likely to lose it.

    I recommend starting with a 1/8″ twist drill first then opening it up 1/8″ at a time by twisting the larger drills with your hand. In a drill motor they will try to grab. Once I had a 3/8″ hole I used a rat tail file to get the final size.


  13. Here’s the mod I did to the stock and trim piece at the rear of the gun to allow for adjusting the hammer preload. It was simple to do with a 6″ rat tail file and a small twist drill. I don’t think it detracts from the looks of the gun at all, so I wonder why the factory doesn’t do it to start with.


    • Halfstep,

      They probably don’t like the owners to tinker too much with their guns. Could end up voiding the warranty you know. A little knowledge is dangerous as my teacher used to say. Why is it the precautions come after the article?

      Siraniko


      • Siraniko,

        Crosman turned that “tinkering” into one of a set of adjustments that is a large part of the Marauder’s success. The Urban come after, so you would think Gamo/BSA would have exploited this feature. I had a teacher that warned me to never hide my light under a basket.

        Half


  14. BB,

    If you see this before your 50 yard testing, be warned that the barrel band is difficult to get tight and if the barrel is bumped hard enough, it can get twisted on the air tank and bound out of position enough to shift the POI quite a bit. Another bump involving the barrel can just as suddenly free it up again. I’ve had this happen to me and it may have been the cause of the shift you saw in your first group on this test day. It may have been bound up before and sprang back into position after the silencer reassembly or you may have shifted and bound it up during that repair and it is waiting to spring back and spoil your long range shooting results. Just mentioning it in case you want to check.

    Half


    • Half,

      Okay, I will keep that in mind.

      I have been to the range one time, but the conditions were not good. Not only was the wind bad, but I was helping someone sight in his AR and he was using all my usual equipment. I was using junk to rest the rifle, and that’s not a fair test.

      B.B.


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