This report covers:
- Case-hardened parts
- Polishing parts
- A polishing tale
- Gamo triggers
- Single stage — two stage
- Do all triggers wear out?
- Stay safe
- Summary
In Part 1 we looked at triggers that were adjusted too light and the danger that can possibly arise. Today we look at triggers that wear in through abuse such as aftermarket “gunsmithing” and through use, becoming too light all on their own. We got a start on that in Part 1 with the discussion of the BSF trigger that does exactly that, so let’s begin there.
Case-hardened parts
It is possible to harden a steel part only on its surface. The process is called case-hardening and it allows manufacturers to make parts from low-carbon steel and then harden them to do jobs that require hard surfaces.
The parts in triggers are one place where case-hardening is done. Low-carbon steel doesn’t just cost less to purchase, it’s also easier to machine, which means more parts can be made in a shorter time. Also the tools needed to make parts made from low-carbon steel will last longer and break less often, which means more savings for the manufacturer.
Case-hardened parts can be just as reliable as high-carbon steel parts, as long as they are used correctly — where the hardened surfaces are all that are contacted and the parts aren’t compromised in any way. If the case-hardening is removed by stones or files during polishing, the soft inner core of steel gets exposed and wear will start immediately. This is where non-professional modifications can become liabilities.
Polishing parts
One of the worst problems with triggers and other parts is polishing. When parts that engage get polished they often no longer engage as they should. This goes two different ways — either through use or by intentional polishing.
Reader LFranke talked about parts that get worn in and polished through many thousands of operations — in other words through use. That is the problem the BSF trigger parts have. When that happens the user needs to adjust the trigger to a heavier release. That keeps things safe. Properly designed triggers should last for many decades of heavy use if this is done.
The other danger from polishing comes when the owner polishes his own trigger parts, or allows someone else to polish them and the angles of engagement get changed. Triggers can be made unsafe in a short time this way. Reader Ian McKee has recently seen this firsthand — not necessarily with just triggers but with other critical gun parts.
Many people feel they must polish trigger parts. I cringe when someone tells me they have polished their trigger and/or sear to a mirror finish because in my experience they do it wrong most of the time.
A polishing tale
The following story is apparently true, though I doubt either party will admit it. Many decades ago (1953-1978), Rolls Royce used an outsourced automatic transmission for their cars. They settled on the Hydra-Matic made by General Motors. In their investigation they found a pump piston head inside that transmission that was not finished to Rolls Royce standards, so they polished it and put it back. The transmission stopped working. When they asked GM what the problem was they were told the roughness of that piston head was essential to its operation. Sometimes polishing doesn’t help.
Gamo triggers
I don’t know if this is true for the triggers in Gamo rifles made today but there was a time several decades ago when a new Gamo trigger started out hard and creepy and wore in to become beautiful and smooth. It took around 3,000+ shots for this to happen. As best I recall these were single-stage triggers and the blade did move, but the pull was absolutely smooth. Since Gamo came out with their adjustable triggers I’m not sure where they are today.
Single stage — two stage
Trigger adjustments are a big reason I prefer two-stage triggers over single-stage triggers. I don’t care how much travel stage one has — AS LONG AS IT’S INTENTIONAL TRAVEL AND NOT JUST CREEP! What I want is a definite place where stage two starts. If the trigger gives me that, the release can be as heavy as five pounds and it won’t matter.
Are there single-stage triggers that are okay? Yes, I’ve seen some. The trigger on the Webley Senior straight-grip pistol I used to own had one. It had a lot of trigger blade travel, but it was smooth and reasonably light. My Crosman 600 bulk-fill pistol has one that’s fine and light. That one doesn’t travel too much. And I once had a Beeman C1 that had a wonderful single-stage trigger.
My Crosman 600 bulk-fill pistol has a very nice single-stage trigger.
My Beeman C1 also had a good single-stage trigger.
Do all triggers wear out?
In my limited experience, not all triggers wear in or wear out. But the ones that don’t are only found on military arms or on the finest civilian models made. In the airgun world I would say the TX200 is one that won’t wear in or out. Rekord triggers are there, as well.
In the firearms world the triggers in S&W and Colt double action revolvers fall into this category — as long as they remain factory. But most other triggers are suspect. The vintage Colt Single Action Army trigger wore out quickly.
LFranke told us his HW45 trigger had to be adjusted heavier to remain safe. I once had a Sako Vixen centerfire rifle whose trigger wore too fine and had to be adjusted heavier. That one fired a round when I chambered it during a hunt and I thank the Lord I was pointing it at the ground when I closed the bolt!
Stay safe
LFranke asked me to tailor this report for seniors, hence the title. The last point I’ll make today is to keep your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to shoot. This is something that applies to any and every shooter
An acquaintance of mine couldn’t do it. Whenever he held a gun of any kind his finger went to the trigger. One day he called to tell me he’d shot himself while holding a carbine. I’m not sure but I think that was the incident that caused me to invent the term “stupident” to replace the word accident. It was bound to happen because he always rested his trigger finger on the trigger.
Summary
In these two reports we have looked at triggers from a safety standpoint. We know why they shouldn’t be adjusted too light and today we see they can wear to the point they need to be adjusted to release heavier.
As shooters we are the first line of protection from accidental discharges. It may not be easy but we owe it to our hobby to be both vigilant and safe.
And yet people firing the gun will want to have the lightest trigger possible so they don’t struggle with the trigger when they want to shoot. They think a light trigger is the best for them until a “stupident” happens.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
Right you are! I would rather have a smooth predictable 5-pound trigger than a 5-ounce hair trigger.
As for preventing “stupident” issues, I think BB gave us the best advice here:
“The last point I’ll make today is to keep your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to shoot.”
The more we all follow that advice, the less we’ll give anti-gunners fodder to try to ruin our sport.
Blessings to you,
dave
Had the same happening to me, a 20 year old HW45 pistol. The trigger had worn out and was no longer safe, to a point where it fired immediately upon closing the lid (NOT having the finger on the trigger). Pointed it to the ground, but not to the ground AND away from me, the toe of my left foot still remembers.
No lasting damage, though, just the right quantity of luck and lesson learned that day.
Fired some more shots and sent HW45 to its retirement, the trigger mechanism being worn beyond repair.
Papa,
It sounds like you might be able to bring that HW45 out of retirement if you can find the trigger parts that need replacing. It may be worth the effort to contact Weihrauch.
B.B.
At my range when people load their breakbarrel airguns, the older guys(I think that now includes me) always insist that you hold the barrel when loading.
-Y
Yogi,
Whether you are one of the older guys or not, it is the more intelligent ones who do not trust man-made safety features.
I have had experience with some worn out single stage triggers. They can be very scary, most especially when they are on firearms. An airgun with a worn-out single stage trigger can be scary also. It is a much better feeling to be in total control.
The only two stage trigger that I have touched off in my time that can be scary is the one on my Izzy. I have it adjusted to be pretty light for my own personal use and I am aware of how light it is. I should probably adjust it a little heavier for others.
As BB points out, keep your finger away from the trigger. We are the best safety mechanism there is.
Got back on my 30+ year old B-1-1, needed still a heavier trigger return spring for the sear to function. I just thought I installed a S&W J-frame trigger rebound spring but it was a lighter spring in a Wilson kit. I found the original spring in my bag o revolver springs. The J-frame spring is nearly impossible to install in B-1-1 nearly. It is working again . Shooting the B-1 break barrels are a challenge , the direct acting single stage triggers make the B-3 mock two stage triggers feel like match triggers. While installing the spring I was reminded why we need to use eye protection in these endeavors. Coil springs move at a high rate of speed when your pick slips,Y’all be careful.
If anyone is bored and would like to acquire some data, could they shoot a couple groups with a gun that has an easily adjustable trigger, starting with say a 5 lb. pull (or whatever) to their “favorite” pull value of X oz.? I’m afraid if I did this and posted the results there would be some skepticism although maybe I’d find my groups tighten up by 1 MOA or more by performing this experiment – lol.
This report reminds me I have to increase the trigger weight on a Diana model 52 I just bought that was a trade in so it’s been pre-owned. When I went to shoot it I *barely* made contact with the trigger and it fired. Too sensitive for my liking and I’m guessing the previous owner was trying to get the utmost precision they could from it. Apparently it wasn’t enough because they got rid of it and I didn’t see groups I thought are worth mentioning. I also did not run the gambit of pellets I need through it either yet though and I also suspect the scope may be drifting…
The thing about your challenge is that one can get used to a trigger. So, for example, if I take my Air Arms TX200 Mark III, which is wonderful at 10 yards, and I adjust the trigger heavier, I’m sure the first group will be larger, but if I keep firing it at that setting, I will get used to the trigger setting and my groups will get smaller again. Then if I adjust it heavier again, I suspect the same thing will happen. Will there be a trend? I don’t know because then other factors will creep in like fatigue, lack of focus, etc. That’s the inescapable human element. But that is a good idea and perhaps worth trying. Also that Diana seems like a fun project…maybe it would make a good guest blog. Take notes and lots of pictures and let us know step by step how you made out.
Yes good point as trigger optimization is certainly user-dependent.
The Diana 52 I picked up because I noticed they were no longer available (in 52 even though the 48 appears identical in every way except the checkering.) At least I cannot find the 52 anymore new anywhere.
Looking at the trigger, I’m concluding it is an aftermarket one since it does not resemble what I see the T05/T06 have for adjustments. The serial # of the gun ends in 03 and *I think* (please correct me) it was manufactured in 2003 so it should have shipped with the T05 (?) trigger. You can see mine has two screws in front of the trigger blade although the front one is kind of hard to see in the picture. Maybe someone on here who sees it may recognize it as I do not. Since I did not get any documentation with the gun I have no idea what each screw does so it would be a “trial-and-error” approach unless I disassemble it and would be able to determine the mechanics behind it. I’m also assuming by my limited experience with it so far that the previous owner adjusted it to the point of nearly not being able to be set during cocking (just a guess) so I’m reluctant to just try turning them random amounts but I’m sure I’d learn something in the process like I should have taken it apart first – lol
On Dianas, the month and year of manufacture can usually be found in very tiny stamped numbers on the left side of the spring tube near the rear, to the right of “Made in [West] Germany.”
Your trigger looks like my Diana 24 J, but with pan-head screws. I’ll bet you have what is elsewhere described as a “D” or a TO1 trigger. BUT you’ll have to take off the stock and compare it to some exploded diagrams to be sure. If it functions like my Mod 24 “D” trigger, the front and rear screws have to be adjusted in tandem to change the 1st and second stage. See my guest blog on the Model 24 J. I went into excruciating detail.
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2023/04/roamin-grecos-wrestling-match-with-a-rws-diana-model-24-j/?srsltid=AfmBOop34DIP6MmDRjnNdVYfpecOQvAP53lX8ak40Qlza1ePieFsTxDE
Thanks for the tips and link and I did find the date stamp – 12 90. So maybe it has whatever they came with in 1990/1. If it’s a stock trigger I would say the adjustability to a very low weight is definitely achievable with the earlier triggers so I’m wondering why they went to the later revisions but I’m sure they had their reasons. Maybe to avoid what I’m experiencing with too light of settings…
AirGunnerAmeteur,
“and I also suspect the scope may be drifting…” By drifting do you mean the scope will not Hold a Zero?
IF that is the case do you have a known functioning scope or iron sights that you can mount to rule out that major impact POI (Point Of Impact) variable?
Best sorting it out,
shootski
Thanks shootski. Yes, I mean the scope “feels” like it’s not holding zero but that is just a hunch and I do have other scopes I could put on that would help me determine if that might be the case.
My attention has shifted away from springers because of the hold sensitivity issue associated with most of them so I’ve been focusing on multi-pump and the low cost PCP options available now which I find much more favorable for achieving the precision results I’m looking. However the Air Arms TX200, Weihrauch 97K, and Diana 54 I tested don’t appear to be very hold sensitive. The 52 is either hold sensitive (probably) or the scope has issues, or both. Due to the limited desire to deep dive into this gun I’m afraid I may never find out.
I have a Haenel III that was made before WWII. It has a single stage, direct-sear trigger with a sear engagement screw sticking out of the front of the trigger guard. After 85-90 years of use, it remains predictable and dependable. In the 15-20 years I have owned it, I have never touched that adjustment screw.
jiminpgh,
I have a Haenel model 1 that was made during WWII. It is the economy model, with a single stage trigger that is non-adjustable. Still, it is smooth and predictable; hence, I will leave it alone. 😉
Blessings to you,
dave
A large supplier took me and a few other customers on a guided goose hunting trip in Canada. Cylindrical one man pit blinds were bored and refilled before and after the hunt. It was still dark one early morning and hunters were all settled in awaiting the thrill of flag flapping and honking. But the cold and dark stillness of the night was suddenly interrupted by a shotgun blast followed by cursing and fears that somebody got shot. There were no injuries but the fellow whose gun went off was not invited on future hunts. He maintained that he had never touched the trigger. His shotgun was an older semi automatic which may or may not have fired when he loaded it.
I have a handed down Winchester M1911 semi auto 12 gauge. About 65 years ago I was pass shooting ducks by myself. Loading that model involved pulling the barrel back against a strong spring and letting it go. Torque would slam the barrel and bolt forward placing a shell in the chamber. This is most easily done with the gun pointed at the sky. You guessed it- the gun fired without any contact with the trigger. I still have this 100+ year old gun but have not shot it since.
Very timely report!
Deck
One of the things I appreciate about my Slavia 630 (which you’ve tested years ago}.
A great basement and backyard shooter that has, over the years developed a light trigger. But it has that automatic safety that is so conveniently placed…cock, aim and just before releasing the trigger push in the safety with your thumb. The trigger is light enough that without this (though I have never had a mishap) that I would never put in another persons hands.
B.B.,
“Do all triggers wear out?
In my limited experience, not all triggers wear in or wear out. But the ones that don’t are only found on military arms or on the finest civilian models made. In the airgun world I would say the TX200 is one that won’t wear in or out. Rekord triggers are there, as well.”
I think there are solenoid/electronic airgun trigger groups that meet your requirement as well as the SIG ASP 20 trigger that you could add to your list.
shootski
Tom; Thanks for the attention to the Aging Trigger issue. It provoked a bunch of us to consider those things in our arsenals, likely among our favorite and, hence, well used pieces. I guess I was looking for a bit more intelligence from the perspective of some general observations or cues that we users should begin to heighten sensitivity toward. As a social services provider, by past position at our veterans home and as a parish pastor, I observe that we humans adapt and adapt until we tend to over adapt.
Are there any common sense parameters that it might behoove us to observe on a functional or time-driven schedule or check off list that would remind us, jolt us, out of the flow of the usual to take an aware look regularly at the flow? It could be simple? A check off of the salient cues that tightening parameters has to be attended at certain regular intervals – such as ever two-tins of 1000 pellets, or, perhaps annually or something? Something to jolt us out of our subtle adaptations that finally wakes us up – such as a dented furnace run or a hole in the door to our ballistic closet?
Automotive trades have such standards for all our vehicles, tires and fluids. Without going obsessive/compulsive, might there be general recommendations that shooters might attend as a safety check against adaptive behavior that, linked to an over slick trigger causes a problem?
I’ve started going over my spread of arms with the return to them from the cycling season as I descend to the warmth of the basement 10 meter range away from a cold or even snow-covered recreational trailway. I get reacquainted with my air arms by a regimen of bore cleaning, stock touch up and waxing, re-lubing mainsprings and checking batteries on IR scopes. That week of mechanical preparation for months of man cave paper-punching necessarily then catches things annually that otherwise would just drift along – potentially becoming a problem.
My purchase of the new SLIPP lubricant was one such up-ending of the routine that is forcing me to spend a whole lot more time paying attention to the wear issues and aging arms.
Any suggestions on annual or semi annual “hard checks” for safety?
LFranke,
Let me give this some thought.
BB
Tom: I’m thinking here that it would be a good but practical guide to a periodic inspection, based on time and/or tins (or numbers of) pellets consumed down the bore.
Obviously, READ THE MANUAL would be a primary marker, but would a two-tin (500 count) pellets shot run be sensible or even double that? Once-per-two tins (1000 rounds) might be a tad excessive to run a quick check sheet on arm functions?
Would an annual go-over be sufficient? Obviously, some of us shoot seasonally, some constantly, some randomly, but I would think that some “hard count” points might level the field for safety’s sake?
As I mentioned in prior contributions, I cycle for the Volunteer Trail Patrol on our Recreational Bike Trail (Ohio’s North Coast Trail – in Huron County) in the summer and don’t shoot much. Come fall, rain, cold and then snow, I’m hunkered in the 10 M basement range around the Case Guard Table looking at the Champion Trap in the ballistic closet. Fall brings a few days of oily fingers, lots of felt pellets, nylon and bronze brushings, Sheath/Barrier wipes and Min Wax. This follows by re-familiarizing with triggers and missing the 10 ring A LOT. By late spring, however, don’t be a mouse around the house or a squirrel chewing siding….
However, would a simple Work Sheet be something that might benefit the new shooters, the newbies to the basement range routine? Some cues about safety precautions and thresholds could attend the work sheet – like reminders on my underlevers with loading “hatches” to KEEP A HAND on the cocking lever while fingers are in the breech? Same with keep the barrel in control while loading a powerful spring/ram breaker?
Once routines are in place, the only thing that goes wrong is distraction in a moment, but discipline can offset most opportunities for an Owwie! in a moment of dumb, a dent in a galvanized air duct, or having to get the finger of spackle for the drywall.
My ballistic closet is lined with concrete backerboard, and the pipe maze is protected by a barrier that hangs from hooks above and in front of the water lines that is composed of a 3/4″ thick exterior plywood panel covered with a sheet of stainless sheet steel. I shot the hanging barrier ONCE and it stopped the .25 Hatsan round with a good dent but no penetration of the barrier. I built the basement range with an eye toward clear field of view, protection of house systems (water lines, power, woodwork, etc.) and a closet to contain the target mess – paper waste, lead dust/particles and fall out from the target area that gets vacuumed on a regular basis. Closet lighting is an heavy duty construction flood light that has a halogen bulb and provided ample illumination in a black black closet. It also can be pulled from the closet and cleaned as necessary or used for other dark jobs around the homeplace when needed. Furniture in half the basment is placed to be a barrier to the shooting lane as well so folks don’t come into the field of fire easily when I’m concentrating on target instead of visitors.
BTW, NO shooting when the little kids come about – NONE. MY rule of the house. No discussion. NO debate. Got kids? No GOT target practice! Rule #1. Rule #2? See Rule #1.
What;s your age limit on ‘little kids’. My boys both received Red Ryders when they were six. Both were always supervised and now (and always have been) responsible shooters…they are now 21 and 23.
I myself was involved in a youth shooting program (.22 rimfire) when I was eight.
In my opinion you can’t start them too young…as long as they are strictly supervised…better that than they learn all their ‘gun stuff’ from movies and video games.
Cowboystar Dad:
Don’t get to excited or literal here! My son and I started him shooting in elementary school with an RWS/Diana Model 24J. He was in his first years of elementary school. We would take father/son outings to the FAR side of Cleveland from Sandusky to go to the then extant Precision Airgun Sales and Service. Charles Trepes and his wife Lois were the proprietors in the upscale airgun shop. Kevin was outfitted with that RWS/Diana J (Juvenile?) break barrel of considerable power early on. Charles took him to the range in the basement of the shop to orient K to the rifle. WE (he) still has it.
Kevin is now a Lt. Col., in the US Army Engineers, two combat tours and almost 20 years in the service to the country with combat recognition and the De Flurey Award (to engineers). He will receive my arsenal of expensive air arms and accoutrements at my passing. He knows more of munitions than I ever shall; has a mechanical engineering bachelor’s degree and a master’s in geological engineering. He is a highly educated warrior, a leader of men, a devoted father and husband.
My point is to wall of the shooting lane that courses the one whole dimension of my basement that forms the 10 meter lane. It’s a commonsense matter of personal safety – particularly as may affect a very occasional child in the house. My arms are such that mistakes would NOT be superficial. Not at all.
Common sense and caution are the rules in my 10 Meter indoor range. Period. Any doubt and the range is DOWN. Period. The idea is the enjoyment of a fine motor skill sport/hobby; observing the necessary cautions so any participating can do so with safety, proficiency and learned improvement in function.
There are a-plenty of adults who will NEVER do more than see the locked arms locker and the closed door to the ballistic closet. Why? Because dumbassery can NOT, should NOT, cannot be rewarded with concurrent disaster. It’s a matter of sense. Here, training and sense are MORE important than just an age number.
Kevin learned the rules and abided them early on. One of the joys of our early years was the exclusive father/son trip over to the way east side of Cleveland to the shop to stock up on pellets, air gun supplies, parts, AND to have a stop at Olive Garden, the two of us, for a pasta coma following the never-ending salad bowl and bread sticks. It was a bonding time away from all the other concerns and interference; father and son together, going to a private meal, stopping at the professional gun shop, stocking up and talking about life. I miss it to this day; he in Missouri and I in Ohio.
Kevin has almost his first 20 years in. He is, as mentioned above, a Lt. Colonel, a two-tour combat officer, a wise and even brilliant commander at Fort Leonard Wood, training America’s Engineering troops as a battalion commander, once precise and maybe ruthless military operations judge under the Mission Command Program, and a teacher and leader.
Recently, given my battle with cancer in various forms from a long history of exposure to things going back to the fire service, I have had to make the decision, in writing, to empower him to take control of the entire arms cache should I come to my eventual end. He will so do and remove the entire cache to his oversight and wise discernment of outcomes all under the US Army Base protocols and rules. His nieces and nephews will bend to his authority as well as his highly educated sister. He is a man of arms, a man of experience, advanced collegiate and military education and sense. A trainer of US military personnel and commander in combat.
I have total confidence in my son and his ways around our arms – arms that he will own and control in total with adult and learned authority. Having a clear and child-absent shooting lane is NOT a problem – it is the consequence of training, education and sense. Should my grandson, his son, ever express interest in Kevin and my shared use of air arms, I am confident that his father will put him though “basic training” that maintains safety while promoting competence AND SAFETY.
That’s the thing about a highly educated, extremely smart, experienced commander, you know! Things are done with dangerous things safely and seriously. That’s the way my range is run. That’s the way it is done – for safety and enjoyment.