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2.0 2.0
2.0 2.0
springs back and forward to protect scope.
Things I would have changed:Change the pins for a bar and screw the rings on the bar. Use heavier spring. Should be mounted with arrow pointing towards eyepiece. Recoil first is to the rear then forward and then upwards. Is not worth 100.00 USD.
What others should know:When you tighten the screws on the rings for some reason the pins stop moving freely on the mount. While zeroing the scope the front ring came of the pins. I believe it happened because it was mounted with the arrow pointing towards the muzzle as per instructions.
3.0 3.0
2.0 2.0
I just purchased this mount. 2 problems I am having. When you tighten the rings to hold the scope causes that the sliding pins stop moving freely. I installed the arrow towards the mussle and there was no movement of the mount at all. I changed the arrow to point towards the eyepiece and the mount moved as it should. .
Things I would have changed:The mount should be able to acomodate any type of scope. Rings are a little low. Some scopes may not fit in the mount.
By peter from USA on 2018-05-09 |
5.0 5.0
5.0 5.0
Nice finish, quality screws, droop compensation.
Things I would have changed:Nothing, this mount is solid as a rock!
What others should know:Works very well on my Diana 54. I was worried about the recoil of the 54 ruining my prized scope. With the Dampa mount, it soaks up all the unfelt recoil very well. Scope has not slid, or shifted at all.
I am using a 10x50 UTG to start, after testing I feel this mount will work well with my Aeon 10-40x56.
4.0 4.0
4.0 4.0
Looks and feels solid. Bought it for my NP XL1100 which has killed 3 scopes so far (the original one that came with it, the replacement for that scope, and a nicer UTG scope). I'm hoping to eliminate some of the barrel droop that the gun has (don't really like shimming too much, and this gun has a lot of droop).
Things I would have changed:Looks like you need a scope that is no larger than 32mm objective lens, otherwise the bottom of the scope under the adjustment knobs will hit the base of the mount (and it won't move like it should). Make the rings higher so you can use at least a 40mm objective...
What others should know:There are 4 smaller hex screws inside the rings to hold them onto the rails tightly. Not sure if this could end up being a source of scope movement after using it awhile (if they come loose) but I'm going to test it out in the next few days and get back with my results.
By Christian from USA on 2015-08-05 |
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By Steve
The concept of neutralizing harmful recoil that damages scopes.
Things I would have changed:Improve quality control. I own four of these Diana Bullseye ZR 1-piece mounts. I had to return a ZR mount because there was a lot of vertical movement between the two rails and the housing. I noticed a rattling sound each time I fired my Diana 460. Every screw on the rifle and the mount was properly torqued. I gripped the objective bell of my scope and noticed vertical movement when I applied pressure. Horizontal movement was also present but not quite as pronounced. The palpable play in the rails explained why I kept getting consistent flyers and large groups at 30 yards. Upon discovering the slop in the rails, I checked my other ZR mounts and found no play in two and extremely slight play in the third. So far, the ZR mount with the minimal play has not affected my ability to knockdown field targets. However, on paper, I get consistent flyers.
What others should know:If you order the Bullseye ZR mount, test it for slop the rails. Grip your scope at either end and apply pressure. Gauge your decision to keep the ZR Mount by play in the rails and actual repeatable accuracy. Of the four Bullseye ZR mounts that I own, the first two were purchased when the mount
was introduced. Those two mounts are solid.
My Bullseye ZR mounts are installed on Diana high power air rifles.