Home Blog  
Education / Training Diana RWS 350 Magnum

Diana RWS 350 Magnum

by B.B. Pelletier

A reader named RWS 350 asked for this post, but several others chimed in with interest, too. So, for all of you who like the big springers, here we go!

Diana’s most powerful airgun!
Before the Diana RWS 350 Magnum came along, the 48/52/54 sidelever (same powerplant in different stocks) was the top Diana gun. But the long-stroke 350 breakbarrel produces even more power than those big bruisers.

It’s big but not heavy!
At 48″, the 350 Magnum is one of the longest air rifles on the market. But tipping the scales at just 8.2 lbs., it is medium weight – for the power. Being a long-stroke springer, it kicks hard, but not as hard as the Webley Patriot, which is also sold as the Beeman Kodiak.

Velocity and power
The .22 caliber rifle I tested got 935 f.p.s. with RWS Hobby pellets, 870 with RWS Superpoints and 675 with Beeman Kodiaks. To get the 1050 f.p.s. that RWS advertises, you’ll have to shoot a lightweight pellet with a synthetic skirt, which I don’t recommend doing in a spring rifle of this power – not enough cushion for the piston. So, the difference between this gun and the advertised velocity for the Kodiak/Patriot is nonexistent. In my testing, Superpoints delivered the most energy, at just under 24.5 foot-pounds. Crosman Premiers were the most accurate, with Kodiaks a close second.

Shooting technique
Being a long-stroke springer, the 350 takes a lot of technique to shoot accurately. You have to float it very lightly to realize all the accuracy it has, which is a lot if you do your part. Do not grasp the stock in any way, but rest it on your open palm and allow the rifle to move when it fires. Don’t grip the pistol grip tightly or press the buttpad into your shoulder. In this respect, shooting the 350 is identical to shooting the Kodiak/Patriot. My five-shot groups averaged 0.35″ at 25 yards, which is almost as good as I can do with an RWS sidelever. I had an RWS 450 scope on mine, but one of the new Leapers TS scopes would be a better choice today, because they are more rugged and have clearer optics.

Mounting a scope
This is a weak point on all Diana RWS airguns. Their scope rail has three shallow depressions that are not deep enough to hold a recoil stop pin in a set of rings. There is a large-headed screw at the rear of the rail, and you may be tempted to butt the rear ring against the head (I’ve done it, too), but it will not take the repeated stress of recoil. If you use it that way, you can shear off the screw head! The solution, which I read about years ago, is to hang the scope stop pin in front of the rail, where it can bear against the full depth of the aluminum rail. That leaves half the front ring (assuming a two-piece ring set) hanging off the rail, which is a good reason to use a one-piece mount on an RWS airgun. I used a medium-height Beeman 5030 scope ring with the RWS scope, but any good non-adjustable ring should work. Just make sure you match the ring height and diameter to the scope used. The RWS scope ramp doesn’t give much clearance over the top of the compression tube.

The Diana scope rail is not very conducive to scope mounting. Don’t butt the rear ring against the large screw head at the right. Instead, hang the stop pin in front of the scope rail, so it has something to bear against.

Cocking effort
Cocking a 350 is as easy as cocking a Beeman R1 and just a little harder than cocking one of the big Diana RWS sidelevers. At just 36 lbs., it’s nowhere near the effort required for a Patriot (50 lbs.) or the even more difficult Gamo 1250 (60 lbs.). Yet, this rifle has power equivalent to those airguns. The ballbearing detent that keeps the barrel closed is very easy to overcome, so you don’t need to slap the muzzle to break the barrel open.

The 350 Magnum comes in both .177 and .22. If you buy this rifle in .177, you’ll throw out so much power in that caliber. It’s like buying a new Corvette with a V6 engine (if they made one) for better fuel economy. However, this is just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions!

Good trigger
The trigger can be adjusted to be very nice BUT YOU HAVE TO READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL! If you don’t, you’ll be turning screws for years without a clue as to what they do. Properly set up, a Diana trigger can be as crisp as a Rekord, and that’s saying a lot.

It’s a classic airgun!
The 350 magnum is large but not heavy. It’s powerful but easy to cock. It’s difficult to scope but very accurate when you do. Besides all that, it feels right when held and shot. It has all the earmarks of a classic air rifle that will endure the test of time.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

244 thoughts on “Diana RWS 350 Magnum”

  1. You mention accuracy with the RWS side lever guns as being very good. I recently bought a RWS 52 in 177 and have been trying different pellets. My last string with Crossman Premier Heavy Pellets was five shots at 10 yards in what looks like a hole smaller than a dime. . Perhaps I am getting better but my sense is that the Crossman pellets are more accurate than my other pellets. I have been shooting Crossman Cooperheads (readily availably in the local stores) and Gamo Match, real good until I used the Premiers. I would be interested in your comments in two areas, could you offer an explanation as to why some pellets are seemingly more accurate than others? And I am using heavy weight pellets, could you comment on the value of using heavy vs lighter ones in this air rifle? One final comment, I found to my surprise that the pellet trap I was using (Gamo Funnel Trap), and worked well with my old Sheridan, started to come apart when I began shooting with my RWS 52. The first ten pellets bent the trap deflector and then started to dent out the back of the trap and the metal looks like it is beginning to come apart. I have since acquired a trap suitable for 22 long rifle and while the trap is fine, the pellets seem to almost disintegrate in this trap. I had no idea that this rifle was so powerful.

  2. RWS 52 owner,

    You have said a lot and asked for more than you may realize.

    I will address the pellet weight/airgun type question early next week.

    I will address the pellet trap issue separately. Thank goodness you were observant enough to see what was happening. I have heard tales of shooters putting holes through cinderblock walls and destroying appliances on the other side before realizing what they were doing. There is more at work than just the power of the airgun.



  3. Thanks B.B. for another great article. I was particulary interested in your comments on the scope stop, as I have an RWS gun. Sure enough I butted the rear ring up against the large screw at the back of the rail. It seemed like a good solution, but I don’t imagine I would have been very happy with it had the screw sheared off.

    However hanging the scope ring over the front of the rail doesn’t seem very appealing either. I wonder if you could buy a screw made of high shear strength steel for the back of the rail that would handle the recoil. Or maybe try to deepen the depressions in the rail to accomodate a scope stop.


  4. jw,

    Undoubtedly either of your suggestions would work, but I’ll recommend a variation. Drill a new hole and use that. But be very careful that you don’t drill into the receiver tube!

    Diana in Germany makes aperture sights with bases that match the roughened surface of the ramp. They interlock and work well.

    Perhaps our other readers have recommendations of their own?


  5. Hi B.B.,

    On the topic of “What range should you zero your scope?”

    Can you give me your wisdom on what two ranges you should adjust the RWS 350 Magnum?

    Please give me the two ranges for the following air rifles as well:

    Gamo CFX
    Gamo 1250


    Bees Keeper

  6. Bees Keeper,

    I’d sight both rifles in for the first intersection at 20 yards. The CF-X would cross again around 33 yards or so. The 1250 would cross at 40 yards. Somewhere in between the near and far distance they would each hit about a pellet’s diameter above the aim point.


  7. Maybe you could do a entry on the legacy1000 if possible.Because it is a ben/sheridan I know it will be at least at what it as advertised to be as a good gun but I would definately like to know more before buying.

  8. Legacy 1000,

    The problem is I don’t have one of these rifles and they are not a common airgun. I have held them but never tested them. So it’s going to be some time (months) before I can get one to test. If you can wait that long okay, but I’m hoping one of our readers will step up and tell us about theris.


  9. What about the beeman ss1000?It SAYS it shoots 800 fps in 22 for only $182 with scope.I was also wondering if anyone could list any other models that sell for under $300 that have a max fps in 22 of at least 800 or better that compare to the legacy1000.The beeman ss1000 and the RWS 34 are the other guns with similar price and power.Like I said I am bassically looking for a powerfull air rifle that has a max fps in 22 cal of at least 800.Those 3 are my best choices right now and would like some comparisons of them,I would rather by american if possible so the beeman ss1000 or the legacy1000 seem my most likely picks.

  10. Beeman SS1000

    Beeman’s Sportsman Series 1000 is a Chinese-made rifle that I do plan to test this year. I saw it at the SHOT Show and was impressed with the external quality. It appears to be a copy of a Norika (Spanish) design, which would be roughly the same as a Gamo.

    With a Chinese airgun, accuracy is always the concern. While they CAN rifles barrels well, they don’t always do so. I note that Pyramyd says the accuracy at 33 feet is one-third of an inch, which is pretty poor ifor this price range of guns.

    The Spanish had the same problem 10 years ago, and they learned their lesson. I believe the Chinese will learn as well. As I found in the test of the Marksman 2004, another Chinese gun, they can make a barrel when they want to.


  11. I’m new to posting so I hope I got it right. I have a gamo 1250 in .22 and I mounted a big scope on it so the original scope stop pin bent back with a few hundred shots, what scope stop must I get to stop this? I have a one peice high mount on it. sorry for asking in the wrong subject guys.

  12. Then the leagacy 1000 or the rws 34 are mostlikely now thanks for tellin me about the beeman.Ya my crosman powermaster sg can be more accurate than that and it is a $70 gun!Isnt as powerfull but it can hit 700 fps in .177 which is good for $70.

  13. It seems that the main difference between the RWS 350 and the 48/52/54 is the cocking mechanism. I find no other obvious merit of one gun versus another. Am I missing something?

    Regarding scope mounting on Diana models…would a Full Length Integral Mount work to stop slippage?

    Finally, is there a formula to extrapolate the velocity if the knowns are muzzel velocity and a known pellet weight? For example, if a gun will shoot at 1000fps with an 8 grain pellet then what will the velocity be if a 12 grain pellet is used?


  15. Guys,

    You don’t have to guess about velocity. The formula is given in the article “What is Muzzle Energy?” on this website.

    Find it at


    You don’t even have to do the math. Pyramyd Air’s webmaster has set it up so all you do is plug in the variables and hit the button.

    The RWS 350 magnum is a breakbarrel, while the 48/52/54 are sidelevers. There is a world of difference between those guns. The sidelevers are short and wide; the breakbarrel is very long and thin. The breakbarrel is a long-stroke powerplant. The sidelevers are short-stroke. They feel completely different when fired. The 350 Magnum is more powerful than the sidelevers. The 350 kicks more than the sidelevers because it has a long piston stroke. So it requires more technique to shoot accurately than the sidelevers.

    Regarding scope mounting – no amount of clamping pressure alone can stop a scope mount from moving under recoil. There has to be a positive scope stop to retard movement.


  16. CF-X guy,

    Believe it or not, I am working on the Gamo Raptor pellets in conjunction with the CF-X rifle. So you will get them both at the same time. Don’t hold your breath, though. I doubt they are very accurate with that much speed.


  17. BB,

    That is great.If they are not good{gamo raptors}I think ill buy them to make a necklace.Now,

    If they say that the gamo raptor pellets increase 25% velocity,then the CF-X should go 1250fps,since 250 is 25% of 1000fps,Right?

  18. Check me on this, but assuming Gamo tested the CF-X with 6.7g pellets to come up with 1000fps that would mean that the CF-X has an estimated energy of about 15ft. lbs. A number comparable to many like guns.

    According to the energy calculator a gun with 15ft. lbs. should shoot a 5g pellet at a speed of 1162 fps. That’s all assuming the 15 ft. lbs. is true.

    I am interested to see what the actual tested numbers are. I don’t think the CFX puts out 15ft lbs, I have been using 14 ft lbs for my figuring. Still that would be too fast for anything to maintain reasonable accuracy, wouldn’t it?

    Waiting for real numbers,


  19. Something of interest…

    Air Arms advertizes the TX200 MkIII at 930fps in the .177cal. and 16ft lbs.

    According to the energy calculator they must have used a 8.3gr pellet. I would have thought a hobby pellet at around 6.5 to 7gr would have been used.

    Anyway, 16ft lbs from an underlever springer seems to be high doesn’t it? What’s the difference in this gun to the CFX?

    Also Webley/Scotts Tomahawk rated at 17.5ft lbs. and 1000fps would be shooting 7.8gr pellet. Closer to the hobby pellet but still heavier than 6.5 to 7gr whats the deal?


  20. CFX guy,

    Pellets with a diabolo ( hourglass shaped) design are not ment to be shot over the speed of sound. They will not stabilize well at this speed, and as a result accuracy is lost. At sea level the speed of sound is 1100 fps and some. If “solid bullets” are used, they have to be shot at extreme speeds, to “kind of stabilize” them. 1250 fps is a good number. To really shoot “bullets” well, the twist rate in the air rifles barrel needs more turns and a steeper twist rate. To spin the “bullet” faster. I think


  21. BB and Jason,

    Thanks for the info.
    I guess ill order a bunch of those gamo raptors just to see.
    But BB,

    Where I live there is only one place I can get pellets.I can get crosman copperheads or daisy precision max pointed pellets.I buy the daisy because the copper head pellets dont do well in my cfx.Are the daisies good pellets for $3.00?
    And scince they and the copper heads are the only ones ive tried,how good are they compared to an accurate pellet like the premire or kodiak?

    CF-X guy

  22. well everyone, can some one point me in the right direction for the best scope stop with a pin that fits a gamo 1250 in .22 and wont give in to the recoil. the one that came on the rifle bent back because the main body is made of plastic I’m just trying to stop the slip for more than acouple hundred shots. I hope B.B. can answer me or someone with knowledge on this issue.

  23. I hope that the last comment will be deleted.


    How does a daisy pellet compare to a kodiak at 50 feet.Are they both accurate at that distance?
    Or will the kodiak still surpass it in that distance?

    CF-X guy

  24. BB,


    I have a question.I have a friend that has a crosman co2 air rifle from the 1970s that uses 2 co2 bottles.The crony says it goes 1567fps to 1600fps.And the power is noticiable too.I know that it is powerful because its stonger than the gamo 1250 huuricane he has.What is this model?and how is it possible?

    CF-X guy

  25. BB,

    The crosman shoots through an old steel trashcan that almost an inch.I think it might go that fast because the power is stronger than my cf-x and his hurricane 1250.If you know a model said to do this then tell me the name.

    CF-X guy

  26. CF-X guy,

    I don’t know what this means, “The crosman shoots through an old steel trashcan that almost an inch.”

    No Crosman ever made can out-shoot either of your guns. The only possibility is that you have an 1100 Trapmaster than someone has tweaked.


  27. BB Pelletier,

    You made a mistake because you said than an air gun can reach 1000fps and no airgun ever could do that.I am now 78 years old and have the most powerful airgun of all,The sheridan blue streak.
    I hope you understand your errors.


  28. Mr. Hunidr,

    I hate to break this to you but your Sheridan is not the most powerful air rifle. Your rifle develops about 14 foot-pounds, while a Condor or Career 707 develops over 65 foot-pounds.

    And 1,000 f.p.s. is not impossible for an airgun. I have seen 1,480 and Gamo has just launched a new pellet that their 1250 Hunter can shoot to 1,600 f.p.s. It’s already been featured on TV with a chronograph test done live as proof.


  29. BB Pelletier,

    I really thought an airgun cant shoot 100fps but thank you for the aclaration and im very sorry.Im kind of old and in my time the sheridan was a great air rifle.One question,In what channel does an air rifle get 1600fps?
    And can I download the test from the air rifle going 1600fps on the web?
    If so,Where?

    Mr. Hunidr

  30. Mr. Hunidr,

    The program was run on Shooting USA, which is on the Outdoor Living Network. Jim Scoutten is the host. Their website is:


    If you can’t get that channel, contact Gamo at


    and look for information about the new Gamo Raptor pellet. I don’t know whether you can download the test, but I would contact Gamo, if I were you.

    But 1,600 f.p.s. is not the limit for pellets. When I test this Raptor pellet in an AirForce Condor air rifle I’m expecting it to top 1,800 f.p.s., because the Condor is so much more powerful. The Condor already gets over 1,200 f.p.s. with normal .22 caliber lead pellets, and it’s the gun that I saw shoot a lightweight .177 pellet to 1,480 f.p.s.

    Now I must add here that pellets travelling faster than 1,000 f.p.s. are not very accurate. I just finished a test of the Gamo CF-X rifle that shot the Raptor to 1,153 f.p.s. and they weren’t accurate at all.


    For the record, your Sheridan is still a very good air rifle. I have three of them!


  31. BB Pelletier,

    I Bought a 1000fps rifle called the gamo shadow 1000.I want to know if I can use a pellet that I saw and kind of liked in it.Its called the eujin and they are over 16 grains.Do they work on the gamo shadow 1000?Thank you.

    Mr. Hunidr

  32. BB,

    why are they making the Raptor Pellet if accuracy goes out the window at the speeds they travel?

    Like you have said how much does speed count if you miss your target?

    My thoughts are that the 1000fps+ rating is usefull in determaning how heavy a pellet can be used to reach a premium energy level at the point of impact.

    the raptor pellet would be too light to transfer an effective amount of energy to the point of impact at any speed wouldnt it? If you hit it, that is.

    Maybe this pellet is designed for lower power guns like in the 400 to 600fps range?


  33. Some countries in continental Europe have even lower limits of airgun (rifle) power than the 12 ft-lbs in Britain (above which a firearms license is required). Could be that Gamo’s extra-light pellets have these markets in mind.

  34. I think it’s at least partly advertising hype. They hope people will look at it and say “25% faster! wow, faster=better” and then buy them. They would probably be good for some of the lower powered spring pistols though.

  35. BB Pelletier,

    I need your help.Im not good in the computer thing{my grandson is writing what im saying}and dont know how to get info when my grandson is not home.I want to know if you can make a post for the remington genesis.I want a post because Im thinking about getting it for my grandson so he can shoot with me{he is exited as he writes this}.Thank you BB Pelletier and Keep the good stuff coming.

    Mr. Hunidr

  36. Mr. Hunidr,

    It will probably be a long time before I do a Remington Genesis or Benjamin Legacy (someone else asked for that). I do the mainstream airguns as fast as I can, but the Genesis just doesn’t have the demand of a Gamo Shadow 1000. I will try to do it, but I expect you will have made your purchase by then.

    Just looking at the numbers, I’d say the Genesis is very similar to the Gamo Shadow 1000.


  37. BB,

    My granpa,Mr Hunidr,died 3 days ago because of a heart attack.So he wont be writing with me to youe blog any more.Still,he left me the money to buy the remington genesis and he wanted me to have an air rifle like he did.So please,could you make the post for the remington genesis?

    Mr.Hunidr’s grandson

  38. Mr. Hunidr’s grandson,

    I’m sorry to learn of your grandfather’s passing. He seemed so interested in airguns in the short time I knew him.

    I am working on getting a Remington Genesis to test, but as I told your grandfather, it will be some time before you see the report. It takes time to obtain a gun then test it, to say nothing of writing the report. The Genesis is not a mainstream air rifle, as I explained to your grandfather, so I cannot extrapolate from some other known airgun, like I did with the Gamo CF-X. I’ll just have to wait and see the gun for myself.

    If you are interested in this rifle I will report on it, but you will have to be patient.

    Once again, please accept my sympathy for the loss of your grandfather.


  39. BB,

    Thank you for the support.I will have patience on the report.And I just want to tell you that you made my granpas afternoons the best he had{he sayed that}he really enjoyed me reading this blog to him.Belive it or not I read every single post to him.Once again thank you for the support.

    Mr.Hunidr’s granson

  40. BB,

    Also,my grandpa had this sheridan air rifle that he says he bought in 1949.He tells me that his sheridan was one of the firsts.It does not seem to have an item number.He sayed that the sheridans from those years did not have them but he was confident that he bought it in 1949.How much is this worth?Im not going to sell it because he left it to me but I want to know.

    Mr.Hunidr’s grandson

  41. Mr.Hunidr’s grandson,

    First you need to identify which model Sheridan you have. Do a search on the keyword Sheridan (in the blog) and you’ll pull up all the related articles. From them you will discover which model you have.


  42. Hey friend
    I purchased an 350 rifle a couple of years back, but can’t seem to shoot it, it always misfire, it feel like if you try to cock the rifle some thing is moving inside. This is my third gun and the first German made, also the worst gun I’ve purchased, the rest of my guns is either made by Chinese, or Turkey but working wonderfully. The bad thing is I seem misplaced the sale recept and can’t return the gun to the store where I purchased it, and we don’t have any body who can repair air rifle in where I’m staying. Any advises would be greatly appreciated.

  43. Rocky,

    You don’t mention what country you live in, so I’ll assume you are in the U.S. You should return the gun to RWS for repairs. It sounds like something has broken.

    So what if they charge you something for the repair? Right now all you have is a broken airgun – and an expensive one, at that!


  44. What kind of scope mount WILL hold up on an RWS 350, particularly if you want to use a scope with a 50mm objective lens such as a Leapers 3x9x50?

  45. Dear BB
    Did you mean to say Leapers “mount”, and not “scope”?
    Please, just spell it out for me – WHICH Leapers mount would YOU use for fixing the Leapers model #395AOMDL scope to an RWS 350 in .22?

  46. My apologies!

    I read that as scope, not scope mount.

    Okay – ANY scope mount will “hold up” on the 350 Magnum. What you need is a scope mount that has a recoil stop that will work. I spelled out the problem in the post. There is nowhere on a Diana ramp to tie a scope stop to.

    Re-read the caption in the photo. You have to hang the scope stop pin over the front of the ramp to work correctly.

    Diana makes mounts with a texture that interlocks with the rough surface of their ramps, but nobody imports them into the U.S.

    We really need a better solution than this, because you have to hang part of the scope MOUNT over the front of the ramp, for the stop pin to rest against the front of the ramp.

    What you need is any scope mount that uses a pin as a scope stop. It needs to be at least medium height, if not higher, for the objective bell to clear the compression tube.

    This mount should work



  47. BB i have a quick question. My oldest brother has a RWS 48, he really like’s it. My younger brother has a 54. I’ve been looking at the 350 or the 52. Can you tell me which you think is more accurate, better quality, and which is worth the money.
    I don’t really want to spend the money to buy the 54, i don’t need recoiless. With the 350 being break barrel, will the barrel eventually sag. Does it really have as much power as it says, and how does the power compare to the 48 and 52.
    I want to get the 52 over the 48 for the upgraded stock.
    So basically please compare the 52 and 350. Thanks

  48. dcmcmike,

    Both the 52 and 350 are worth the money and equally well made.

    Breakbarrels never bend their barrels unless someone intentionally wrecks them.

    The 52 is more accurate.

    The 350 is as powerful as the claims.

    My choice is the 52 in .22 caliber.


  49. I got a Diana 350 magnum today. And i’m NOT impressed. The rearsight is moving up and down about 1-2 mm. The trigger is plastic! And the stock is very thinly coatet. NOT what i expected from a gun this expensive! Why is it so bad? Is this Dianas standart?? I really hope it delivers regarding to power…Or i’m sure i’ll cry 😛

  50. BB, Those freakin squirrels have got to go! Is the 350 a good selection for getting rid of those pesky rodents in a large backyard? For rabbits, squirrels, possums and birds is there another rifle in the $275 to $325 range that would be better? After reading your posts I’m totally messed up on what to do about a scope. I’d like to have one and would prefer to pay under $100 for the scope and mount. But, do you even need a scope at 60′? Finally, is the .22 caliber the way to go? Thanks BB!

  51. Hello B.B.

    I am interested in 4 different pellet rifles, they are:
    RWS 350 – 369.99
    RWS 48 – 365.85
    RWS 52 – 399.95
    Gamo 1250 – 399.95

    Now, all of these have a lifetime warranty, good power, and are springers. I don’t want a PCP because of the cost of all the extra gear needed, as well as a lack of a lifetime warranty in most.

    I have two questions, and one problem.

    1. I am pretty sure, but not positive, is the 48 the same as the 52 except with a lower grade wood for the stock?

    The problem I am having is that I can only find CTC accuracy on the Gamo 1250, which is quite nice, .2″@90′. I can’t find anything on the accuracy of the RWS models.

    2. Could you have a “shoot-out” between these rifles, on there overall quality, accuracy, usability, and power?

    Sorry I have 2 more questions now.

    Can you list your CTC accuracy on these rifles?

    Finally, are there any rifles other then these, in this price range/power range, with a lifetime warranty that you would recommend, spring or PCP, as long as its not too far out of this price range inc. gear needed?



    Luckily for you I have tested all 4 guns. Forget the Gamo 1250. It’s TWICE as hard to cock as the others and it DOES NOT achieve 0.20″ groups at 30 yards very often. More like 0.50″, and it takes a lot of technique to do that.

    The RWS 350 can shoot as accurately as the 48/52, which you have correctly surmised is the same rifle in different stocks, but it takes BUCKETS of shooting technique to do!

    That leaves the 48/52 – the weakest of the 4 rifles. They can shoot sub one-inch groups at 50 yards on a perfect day. They honestly take only 33 pounds of cocking force but they are more forgiving in the holding department. That’s not to say they don’t require technique, because they do.

    Remember this, a pellet that hits is infinitely more effective than one that misses with twice the power.


  53. Thanks B.B.,

    BTW, I am interested in all of these rifles in .22 caliber, and the Gamo does not appear to be offered in .22 on your site.

    Quality wise though, they are all roughly the same?

    I am having trouble grasping this concept of all the technique required. It seems to me as though all the rifles have about the same accuracy, but the user will be accurate more often with the 48/52, which really doesn’t tell me a whole lot. I think I need more explanation in this department.



    You need to read my past posts on accuracy with spring air rifles. There I explain about technique needed for accuracy. Both the Gamo and RWS 350 need a lot more technique than either of the sidelevers.

    Power by itself means nothing. Power with accuracy is what you want. All the RWS guns have accuracy, but one requires more technique than the others.

    Tom Gaylord calls it the “artillery hold.” It means holding the gun as lightly as possible so it is free to move and recoil as much as possible when it fires.

    It’s very similar to shooting an M1911A1 Colt. Many shooters think the gun is inaccurate, but with the right technique, it wins!


  55. Hello again B.B.,

    Now, I have decided on the rifle, but I need to know which scope/scope mount you recommend for the RWS 48.

    I looked in the blog for information on the scope mounts and only found your article on scope mounting height. It talks a bit about scopes mounts, but not much.

    Under the accesories, there is only 1 scope listed, and no scope mounts.

    Thanks for your advice B.B.

  56. For the RWS 48 I would get a 4 to 12 or a 4 to 16 variable-power scope.

    I don’t care for mil dot reticles, but they are very popular now, so you decide. I like a straight duplex, which the AirForce scope does have. It’s a big scope which means it has to be mounted high to clear the compression tube.

    One consideration is the loading port. On the 48. its a sliding compression chamber and a lot of shooters freak out if the scope objective overhangs that area. If you want to keep it free for the best access to the loading port, stick with an overall scope length of less than 12 inches.


  57. Hi everyone.

    It is quite interesting to read some of the comments. Here are some things which might be useful to most of ppl posting here.

    1. Accuracy – guys two words – more practice. I studied on old model of Baikal (crappy Russian bbgun) and trust me when I say this any gun with given enough skill will hit right on the balls.

    2. Velocity myth – faster is better??!!! Hey you should have paid attention in physics class, once pellet breaks sound speed it will not do much good because you won’t hit a cow. Most of the high end break barrels are cut of at around 1000 for a reason.

    3. Power – if you don’t want the scuba set up (personally I think its crap, if you want that much get a real riffle and put a silencer on it, cheaper and much better) two guns will take the cake RWS 350 in .22 and Patriot Export by Webley & Scott in .25 I have both of them and both are amazing guns definitely the best out there. RWS is cheaper and only goes up to .22 but does accommodate by higher velocities (as in closer to the sound barrier)

    So if you must choose do choose between those two.

    Silent killer

  58. I shot my 350 this weekend and my buddy shot his new 52. We used sand bags to rest on the forend and lightly held the rest of the gun as suggested. After a painful initiation period, we started banging the 10 ring. My question is this: What is the difference between a sand bag and the palm of your hand, if held lightly on both? I definitly noticed a difference with the bag as I was MUCH more steady than with my palm touching the forend. I must say I missed a ton of squirrels, though, shooting both ways. If they weren’t so curious/dumb, I wouldn’t have gotten 2-3 shots off on the same one…. another way of saying I must have missed “big”.


  59. Chazer,

    The flesh of the hand is apprently perfect for deadening the vibration nodes of a recoiling air rifle. Don’t know why, it just is. Shooters who change from sandbags to the flat of their hand almost always notice an improvement.


  60. Beeman 1000SS .177 w/3-9x scope

    I picked up one the other day at big 5 since it was on sale. It had been on the rack. Probably was a returned item. Took it home and played with it all day and decided something was not right with it so I exchanged it at another store for a new one in the box. What a difference.

    This rifle is flat out wicked. I bought it for varmit control and that is what it has been doing extreamly well.

    I did find out that it takes some doing to get it sighted in properly but once you get that done its a tack driver.

    It works best with 7.9gr pellets. It does not like Gamo Pellets at all and will not shoot with them so dont even try, they are a bit too long and the skirts shave lead in the breach leading to some really erratic patterns. I use the Premiers from Wallyworld in points and hollow points and they are extreamly consistant. For pest control I use the Preditors and they are absolutely the most devastating little pellet i have ever seen. At 45 yards the whack is louder than the Beeman and so far nothing has walked away. The shocking power is amazing and I can can stack pellets at that distance so the accuracy ratings are very under rated by everyone.

    It will throw out a Crow Magnum HP very well but since the weight is more there is a little drop to contend with and if its windy they wander a bit but still with in the kill zone. No such issues with the Preditors or Premiers.

    It’s an extreamly flat shooter. From 10 yards to 50 yards if the scope is in focus its a dead on shot with no compensation. Pretty impressive.

    I have had to rack out the rear ocular all the way to compensate for my vision which makes the range settings at distances over 50 feet a little wacky but as I said, if its in focus its on target. Works best when focused to infinity and then brought back to focus.

    It is a big rifle and cocking it takes some effort. It is very quiet, the ported muzzel brake does a great job.

    It does have some recoil to it and it likes to jump. I cut some channel foam and strapped it to the forearm so i can hold it more comfortably or lay it on a fence line. That made a huge difference in the accuracy factor. It’s easier to float it. And it makes life easier when hitting the barrel against my leg to open the breech. This is a slapper, its too stong to break the barrel over by hand and after 20 – 30 shots you will have a tired arm.

    Bottom line is I am going out and buy one in a 22 before everyone figures out this thing is way underpriced.

    I do plan on replacing the scope with something a bit more powerful very soon. I did find out this is rated asa magnum so get a strong scope.

    Only other thing it really needs is a sling, it’s heavy and shooting off hand will be hard for most because of the weight and length.

    For a chinese piece I have no complaints this is one heck of a rifle.

  61. BB

    New Gun Won’t Work!

    Well, it happened! I bought a new RWS 350 in .22 with a Leapers 4-16×50 scope (not the “TS” model). I had to place the mount on backwards so the set pin would hang over the front of the scope rail (as you suggested). Sure enough, the recoil is so strong, the pin broke after only 4 good days of shooting AND after a couple more shots, the scope rail screw was sheared off, too! As all of this was happening, the actual scope fell apart. The Left/Right adjustment dial came off and I had to use a screwdriver to adjust for the rest of the day.

    But wait, that’s not all. I was shooting at squirrels and they didn’t even jump when I took a shot. This allowed me to get off several shots. Every once in a while my shot would sound like a rim-fire 22. Loud clap and recoil. Make that VERY loud clap. As I was missing badly, I decided to start over and sight in the gun/scope again. Sometimes I wouldn’t even hit paper at 10 yards. Then, I would. Finally, after lots of frustration, I couldn’t hit anything. The reason? Anybody??? I had 2 maybe 3 pellets jammed in the barrel. I wasn’t hitting paper because the pellets weren’t leaving the barrel. And I compounded the problem by shooting again. When everything cleared, I heard the loud recoil. Anyway, I’ve got 3 pellets stuck and the gun has to go back and the scope to boot.

    A jam in the barrel???? Is this common? I know I got the wrong scope, but does this gun jam very often? Did I do something wrong? This all happened in one day. Up to that point, the gun was shooting like a lazer…


  62. Chazer,

    Sounds like you’ve had a bad day or two!

    I hope you did not lubricate the rifle before shooting.

    Pellets stuck in the barrel? Never happens. You push the first one out with a cleaning rod. You tried to shoot it out and that’s how you got three stuck. The solution is still to push them all out with a rod. Use a steel cleaning rod, not an aluminum one, because it will break.

    Did you first attempt to shoot your new rifle with open sights? You should be able to hit a quarter every time at 45 feet that way. It depends on the pellets you use. For gosh sakes DON’T use Crosman pellets in this gun! They are too small and will cause dieseling!

    What pellets are you using? Your rifle is dieseling badly and it shouldn’t be.

    As far as the scope stop pin shearing off, that’s a toughie, too, because that pin is steel and the ramp is aluminum. There should be a deep dent in the ront of the ramp. The rear ramp screw shouldn’t have been contacted.

    As for the scope knobs falling off, they are held on by tiny screws that must have worked loose.

    I think the entire problem lies with either the pellet you are using or the lubrication you may have done.


  63. Does anyone have any experience with the RWS C mount? I read it mentioned on a website pertaining to a scope being mounted on a RWS 48. I then Googled RWS C mount and saw them selling for about $55. I believe it has a stop pin and was wondering how well it works on RWS’s own rifles. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, btw on the site mentioning the scope mounting, the 48 was in .25 caliber. Saw earlier that interested you BB. Thanks


  64. Shawn,

    The RWS C-mount has a very spotty reputation. It’s an adjustable with a rep for not holding adjustment. When they were made in Korea the quality was higher, but when they moved production to China, it tanked. Not a mount I would recommend.


  65. Is there any other single piece mount w/ a stop pin/screw that would work well w/o a lot of fuss? Looking for a 1 part fix all for this thing ahead of time before I buy one. Any help would be apprecaiated. Thanks


  66. Ok, I’ve found several suggestions that point towards the B-Square 17101 as the model to use for a RWS 48. It’s hard to know what you need w/o the actual part in hand. I don’t think anyone lists the length of this item. All this searching around I did find the super best rock bottom price on a model 48…but not on the .20 caliber version. Some people want 425 for it lol. All in all, it will be months before I scrape together the cash for one. It’s good to have something to look forward to and it never hurts to research and find what you need ahead of time. Thanks for your help.


  67. I asked around and someone suggested the Beeman 5039 mount over the B Square. It apparently has windage and elevation adjustments you can adjust w/o removing the scope. He also mentioned (maybe sarcasticly) the B Square has about 20 screws to adjust and when you have to change something you have to turn them all. After about 2 or 3 adjustments there is a possibility of stripping one of them. Something about steel screws in aluminum threads. Any comments?


  68. Shawn,

    I have no experience with the Beeman 5039 mount. It looks good in the picture and it’s most likely a Sportsmatch mount, so it should work well.

    My experience is with the B-Square mounts. Yes you can strip steel screws out of aluminum, but that doesn’t stop AirForce from making their guns that way.

    I’d say get the mount that seems best to you.


  69. BB

    Do you know anything about the Diana 460 magnum? It’s an underlever kind of like the 46. The only place I’ve seen it is the Dianawerks website. Too bad I only know a handful of Deutch words lol. I was wondering if there was anything special about it. If nothing else the picture of the kid from 1930 is worth a good laugh. Love the gap in the company timeline from 1930 to 1947. NOTHING HAPPENED! WE DID NOTHING WRONG WE SWEAR! I’m kidding. I’ve liked their airguns ever since I saw one a friend had when I was 10.


  70. BB,
    Regarding my RWS 350 jammed as noted on an earlier post….

    Thanks for your response and help. I’ve been away so couldn’t follow up. As far as lubrication goes, I never lubricated the barrel. However, after a day of shooting, I believe I put a couple of drops of Pelloil on the hinge points of the break barrel. I can’t imagine that making a difference, unless some crept over to the breach…

    The reason I shot into a barrel that was jammed was that I didn’t know it was. I had been shooting at squirrels at about 60 plus yards. So when the pellet jammed, I just figured I had missed badly. Then I reloaded and shot again. That must have happened a couple of times before it jammed for good. I tried to push them through with a cleaning rod, but stopped, thinking that the barrel might get damaged.

    And yes, I’ve been using Crossman Premiers primarily (.22 cal)because they were the most accurate of the initial batches of pellets I purchased. In fact, I borrowed my friends’ RWS 52 and they tested out as good as JSB and RSW pellets. Why are they bad for that gun? Too loose? Too light?

    Can you please explain again what dieseling means? I have to say, that I only had the gun for 3-4 days before it broke, but I did put a ton of lead through it. I know it’s a good gun and that what happened was rare, but still scratching my head on this one…

    The scope was suggested by and purchased through another company than PyramidAir. Leapers said they wouldn’t have recommended that scope for my gun. So, leason learned.

    The good news is that the gun and scope were so new that they are covered under warrenty and are on the way back.

    Two other comments… I started shooting with my open palm resting on a sandbag or gun rest and…. did better! Also, I used my friends’ RWS 52 and love how easy it is to cock that gun and get back on target. I don’t think I lost that much power, but the ease of use made up for it for sure.

    Thanks for the help!


  71. Hello again,

    I couldn’t seem to find a RWS 48 forum, but I plan on ordering a Leapers 3-9x scope, 17101 mount, the plano scoped gun case, and the leapers bipod.

    I was wondering if all I needed was the bipod to attach it to the RWS 48, or if I needed a swivel stud?


  72. Hello,

    I have debating between buying the rws 52 and the rws 350. This will be my first air rifle, which I plan to use for non competitive target shooting and for hunting raccoons that come near the house. I’ve read that the rws 52 is easier to shoot accurately; this fact makes me lean towards the rws 52 since I have no experience with air rifles. However, I was wondering if the rws 52 has enough power to take out a raccoon at 40 to 50 feet. Which gun do you think would suit me best?


  73. Oh, and yes I am planning on mounting one 🙂 That is if it works. I know the RWS website showed a black bipod’ed RWS 48, but couldn’t seem to find where to buy it. Also, do you know how well it works on the RWS 48?

    Thanks again.


    You REALLY need to talk to a Pyramyd AIR technician before placing your order.

    You have asked several questions which I will try to answer.

    1. The RWS 52 in .22 caliber is sufficient to take raccoon-sized game to at least 35 yards. That is over 100 feet. I have an acquaintance who hunts coons all the time in Louisianna with his 52.

    The 52 is best for mounting a bipod because it has a fixed barrel. You can clamp to the barrel or you can attach a bipod base, such as the Picatinny base for the Leapers, to the stock, because there is no slot cu for the barrel and the barrel doesn’t move when you cock the rifle. The 350 Magnum has all of these problems.

    Please call Pyramyd AIR and talk to them about the specifics of your order.


  75. Hello BB,

    You have me confused with the anonymous guy – I just wanted to know about the bipod and the RWS Diana 48. I know the 48 can mount a bipod, I was just wondering if you knew how well it worked, and if I need a swivel stud.


  76. Hello BB,

    I notice in the recoil section of this article that you say to hold a powerful springer as loosely as possible. Can you eleborate on shooting techniques for springers a bit? I ask because I am new to airguns. A Daisy 22X is the only airgun I own, but I have a lot more experience with firearms than I do with airguns.

    I am currently toying around with the idea of buying a Beeman Kodiak in .25 caliber. I hear that airguns like this have a heavy recoil. But what exactly do you mean by heavy? I consider a 12 guage with slugs to be heavy recoiling. Can you compare the recoil of a gun like the Kodiak with the recoil from a particular firearm?

    I really appreciate your advice.


  77. Carl,

    A spring-air rifle has a two-way recoil that breaks scopes. Shotguns don’t do that. But the feel of the recoil from a magnum air rifle is light – at first. However. if you grip the stock tight, the Kodial will give you a headache, because the recoil is in both directions and much faster than a firearm.

    The recoil of a Kodiak might initially feel like a .222 Remington, but after 30 shots it will feel worse than a light .30/30.


  78. BB,

    Recoil in two directions? One direction is bad enough;) So the trick is to not grip the forearm, and to hold the pistol grip loosely without pressing the buttpad tight to the shoulder. Can you shoot accurately doing this? I would think that the rifle would bounce around a lot with such a loose hold. Wouldn’t you also risk the gun hitting you in the face from the muzzle rise?

    I guess that it sounds strange to me because I’ve always been taught to keep a firm hold. Maybe I should look into a PCP;)


  79. Carl,

    A loose hold is the ONLY WAY most spring guns can be accurate. Please give it a try.

    Yes the gun bounces arounbd a lot and no, you won’t get hit in the face.

    This technique is one reason shooters are turning to PCPs in such great numbers.


  80. BB,

    I really like the Kodiak a lot. It’s a real beauty, but I think that double recoil is just too wierd. I think that I may go with a PCP if I decide to go the airgun route. It’s a shame that Pyramid doesn’t offer any .25 PCPs other than those hideous looking Korean guns.

    The Logan Solo looks pretty cool (I really wish they made a .25 though). Do you think it’s powerful enough to take a red fox? Also, if I get a hand pump, such as the Logun/FX3000 three stage pump, will the pump have what I would need to attach it to the Solo?


  81. BB,

    I was hoping for something a little quiter than a .22 rimfire. I thought a powerful airgun would fit the bill being that range is well within 25 yards (more like 15) so that a head shot just below the ear would be possible. I didn’t check out the Condors. That’s a very nice rifle as well.

    Also, would that hand pump have what I would need to hook up to a PCP?


  82. Carl,

    If you go with the Condor, the AirForce pump is the best buy because it has the adaptor for the tank included with the pump.

    Since it is out of stock, a Logun pump will work, and you also need an AirForce 1/8″ to 1/4″ adaptor to connect to the air tank. Product U1010.


  83. B.B.,
    I just received my RWS model 52 in .22 caliber. My decision was made easier by all of your great reviews, and I really appreciate reading all of your posts. The model 52 came in a package deal with an RWS C mount and a scope. I had previously read all of your posts on the issue of scope mounts on these guns and had decided to check it out myself. I confirmed what you and others have posted, that the pin does not work as intended. I looked at hanging the pin off the front but it did not afford me the placement of the scope that I wanted (too far forward). The next thing that came to me was to possibly file the end of the pin down, rather than drill the hole out as was suggested earlier. This seemed like an easier fix, and while it lessens the engagement to some degree, just by eyeballing it didn’t seem to need much filing. I got out some calipers and measured the depths of the pin and the hole to see how much filing I needed to do and to my surprise it didn’t need any filing, the hole is in fact deep enough for the pin (and allows some 10-20 thousandths for clearance), in contrast to what has been written here.

    The problem lies in the distance of the centerline of the pin and the centerline of the scope rail. If you attempt to mount the scope mount on the rail with the pin in place, there is an interference with the dovetail and the pin on the mount that doesn’t allow for full engagement (the hole for the pin is too close to the right hand side of the dovetail rail, as viewed from the shooter’s position, based upon the RWS C mount dovetail and centerline). I was able to mount the scope mount by first removing the pin, then fully engaging the dovetail on the mount and the scope rail. By eyeballing down through the hole the pin goes into, I was able to judge the correct position of the dovetail rail fore/aft and then drop the pin in. This allowed full engagement and ability to put the screw in the side of the pin that is required to get the other half of the dovetail secured with the three screws and clamp everything tight. It did, however, leave the mount slightly canted to one side (the right hand side). Nonetheless, I had full engagement of the dovetails on both sides of the mount, and all screws engaged as designed, including the stop pin. The gimbals and windage adjustment easily allowed for me to bring the scope back over the centerline of the gun.

    I zeroed the scope in at 40ft since I intend to use it mostly as close range pest control. I have fired about a dozen pellets (RWS domes) and haven’t had any problems with the scope, though I realize it’s obviously not broken in yet. Just wanted to set the record straight—at least on my model 52 with the RWS C mount, it isn’t the depth of the pin that is the issue, but the location of the pin relative to the edge of the rail that is in question. Hope others will investigate this before drilling on RWS guns! I’ll update after I’ve used the model 52 some more and comment on the durability as I’ve set it up and welcome other’s comments.


  84. There’s a new version of the Accushot High Profile full length integral mount that fits perfectly on the short Diana 350 rail. This new mount is a shorter 3-bolt version that offers more mounting options than the longer 4-bolt version. It’s just slightly shorter than the 350 rail (no overhang) and will take full-size or compact scopes. This mount has an allen screw type stop pin, fits nicely in the back hole and you can screw it down tight. I’ve been using this mount with a BSA 3-12×40 scope for a while now, it looks right and doesn’t creep. The best part is, it only costs about $20 and you don’t have to modify the rifle.

  85. You will have to remove that large screw at the back of the rail. You don’t need it anyway, it’s an accessory mount for sights that Diana makes but aren’t available in the US.

  86. Hello,

    I have a 350 magnum and love it, I can seem to bring down the coons I have in my yard though. Any recomendations on what pellet to use and where to place it on the animal. Ive tried everything. I have everything from predators to Eun Jin Pellets (28 gr). Whats better, a heavier slower pellet, or a faster lighter pellet? Will any pellet in this gun penetrate the skull for quick and humane killing?


    ATUP28@yahoo.com (please send any info that would help asap) thanks guys

  87. Andrew,

    Raccoons have been taken successfully with RWS Diana 48s in .22 caliber, so your 350 Magnum, which has 3-4 more foot-pounds of energy, is more than adequate.

    Only use head shots. You must hit the brain for a lethal shot on an animal this large.

    Forget the weight of the pellet – use the pellet that is the most accurate. Which one is that?

    You should be able to hit a quarter with every shot from your rifle, to have the accuracy you need for raccoons. Limit the range to that distance at which you can do that.

    A spring rifle usually performs best with lighter pellets, Try the JSB Exact domed pellets. They come in two weights, so tey them both. Also try Crosman Premiers.


  88. I am using Logan Penetrators (20.5 gr) and Crow Magnums (18.25) currently and can hit about the size of a half dolar.

    Thanks for the info, im glad to hear its possible. They actually attack people here and hunt in packs. They kill dogs and cats and break into houses.

    I have shot them in the head before with a webley tomohawk point blank with a kodiak (21 gr) in .22. Didnt kill him, he just stubled off.

    My range is anywhere from 3-20 yards. Is there any spot in particlar you recommend besides the eye cavity (hes not always looking at us).

    Additionaly, a few of my buddies want to come out and help me, but they have .177 beemans shooting 1000 fps, would they do any damage effectively? Do they also need to target the head?

    I really appreciate the help. And am a long time customer of pyramid air.

    Thanks again,


  89. Anderw,

    It’s possible to use a .177 on coons, but not recommended.

    You need to study their anatomy, to know where to shoot for that brain shot.

    Raccoons are often carriers of rabies, so do not handle their carcasses. Use a trash bag and stick your hand in from the botton (your hand it on the outside of the bag) to grab the coon and pull him inside.

    You may have been so close when you shot that you missed by several inches due to parallax. Draw a nickle-sized dot on a piece of paper and try to hit it from 15 feet away and you’ll see what I mean.


  90. What you get with this deal is a scope, a mount and a hard case for the rifle. Also, the scope is mounted for you – a process that takes a minimum of a half hour when an experienced person does it.

    Some shooters feel more comfortable having the dealer mount the scope, because they know it will be done correctly.

    If the 350 Magnum is the gun you want and the scope fits your needs, this is a very good deal.


  91. B.B.–still new to replying to blogs and seeing that this post is over a year old I don’t know if you will even see it but here goes–I own centerfire , rimfire , shotgun and blackpowder rifles, do to various reasons I haven’t shot in over 15yrs. While shopping in a large sporting goods store-(large well name commercial co.)I was looking at the pellet rifles that they had to offer and at my wife’s urging-figure that one out-I bought one. Upon putting close to 1000 round thru it in 3weeks time I was very unsatisfied with the quality of the gun along with the accuracy-took it back. Searching the websites without much knowledge I looked for what I thought was the best bang for the buck for around $300. I bought the RWS 350 from pyramyd using a discount coupon I found on the internet. I bought it in .177 cal. Since buying the 350 I have been on just about every web site and every blog out there. I’ve been bitten by the shooting bug rael bad and if I can’t shoot them I read about them. I could be wrong -usually am – but one one web I found velocity charts for the 350 in both .177 and .22. Also a lot of the top performers are listed as well. When it comes to knockdown power the 350 in .177 has some pretty good numbers in muzzle energy when using crossman premiers 10.5 grain, numbers that beat out other models in .22 cal as well. When it comes to hunting all you read about is what kind of energy does the pellet have when it hits target-I feel that the 350 in .177, using a heavy pellet works. Also I have it scoped with a RWS 450 with the RWS c mount-had it installed by a locksmith. Close to a 1000 rounds thru it so far and the scope hasn’t budged. Love your articles-have to run my wife is calling -thanks Scott

  92. B.B.–What I was trying to get at is this-there is an exception to every rule. The 350, using crossman premiers 10.5gr in .177 has some pretty good numbers. Muzzle velocity is 20ft lbs. At 25 yards -15ftlbs and at 50 yards 12ft lbs. These numbers are better than some 22cal guns. With the 350 in .177 cal posting these kind of results-should it be overlooked for hunting. As far as it being a corvette with a 6 cylinder I see it more as a Sunbeam Tiger-small car with a ford v8! Having shot for years I appreciate a gun that needs some degree of skill to shoot. Proper hold, breathing and trigger pull-they will just make me that much better when I go back to my other rifles. I dropped in the line about the rws c mount as I have had no problem with scope creep-is it the mount or the fact that it wae professionally installed? Love your blog -really helped me sort things out about the scope–Shoot straight, Scott

  93. B.B.–even though I have not had a problem with the c-mount after nearly 750 rounds–should I still replacement? I really value your opinion, Thanks again-Scott

  94. B.B. Thanks for the comment–but there is one thing that still has me puzzled. You have answered this before but reading the blogs I,m confused. My 350 is in .177 and I am shooting crossman premiers 10.5 grain. If I’m correct you said that these leave a lot of lead in the barrel. I average around 500 rounds per week-should I worry about lead fouling? Is the 10.5 crossman too heavy in my 350 to shoot 500rounds per week–week after week? Thanks, Scott

  95. B.B.

    I have just finished reading this whole blog, Sorry to revise such an old one.

    Is the RWS 350 Magnum that much better than the Crosman Tac 1 in .22, and overall quality itself? I called Pyramydair today and a Lady suggested the .22 RWS 350 Magnum with the Kit containing the accu mount and Leapers 3-9×40 scope for long range target shooting and mid range pest/ small game hunting.

    I was looking to only spend 325.00 max but the RWS seems well worth the extra cash, This will also be my first Air rifle.

    The RWS 350 seems adequate for my desires from what was explained. Do you have any other suggestions on top of this?

    Also, what is the average max affective distance that the 350 magnum .22 with crosman premier pellets can travel?



  96. BB,

    thanks. My question was also, given a perfect weather day with the 350 magnum and crosman .22 premiers, whats the farthest it can shoot affectively?

    I’ve also read many of your blogs and enjoy them very much, No where else is this infrmative.


  97. Decorus,

    The 350 Magnum has more power than range potential. The question is, “At what distance can you hold a 1″ group?”

    I would say that with a perfect day, good pellets & a good shot, you should be able to shoot out to 40 or 50 yards.


  98. B.B.

    Thanks, I will be making the purchase for the 350 te end of this month,

    I notice that the kit including the AO r/g Leapers illuminated 3-9×40 scope mounted on the 1 piece accushot. You guys are the only one to offer this kit, to my knorledge-Was this to solve the scope moving and sheering off the end screw?

    I am hopin that pyramydair adress this problem by offering that kit.



  99. B.B.

    Thanks again, I gave Pyramydair a call today about it. thier response was thats why a 1 piece accushot mount is used. ‘Shimming’ was also brought up. I will purchase the Rifle next week if not sooner.


  100. i am looking to mount a bipod on a rws 52 should i get one that mounts on the barrel or the forearm if it is on the forearm can you tell me a solid good-looking metal one for under $60.00 i was thinking about a harris bipod

  101. You can install sling swivel studs on your rifle and mount a bipod to those. That’s the best way to do it. The outer sleeve of a Diana 52 is glued onto the barrel and can come loose, so it doesn’t make a good bipod mount.

    Leapers bipods sell for under $30 and Tom Gaylord uses one on his USFT.


  102. B.B,

    Enjoyed reading your entire blog. I have an RWS 48 that just got stuck in the open position when the arm was pulled back. Is there an easy solution to this problem? If not, who can I contact to get it fixed? Thanks, Lance

  103. Lance,

    Most of the time this happens the cocking lever hasn’t been pulled back all the way. It is common with a new rifle or with a rifle a person hasn’t shot in a long time.

    Try pulling the cocking lever back farther and see what that does.


  104. BB,

    Was wondering if you could clarify… I own a Diana 350, and I like it quite a bit; easy to cock and powerful.

    Is output a function of the cocking effort? Your post indicates that the 350 is in-line power-wise with the Webley Patriot, and I’ve read this elsewhere, as well. Others, however, have said that the Patriot is a good 4-6 fpe. more powerful than the 350.

    Being that the cocking effort is substantial of the Patriot, is the power really that much greater than the 350, or is the 350 just using better “technology” to obtain the same results?

    Thanks much!


  105. JP,

    The cocking effort is determined by several variables, with the spring rate being a big one. But there’s also the geometry of the cocking linkage. Where the fulcrum is located makes a huge difference. Also, whether the gun has a long-stroke piston. The FWB 124 had a long-stroke piston and developed more power than the HW 35, even though the 35 had a larger piston diameter. And the 124 cocked with 10 pounds less effort.


  106. BB,

    One more quickie for you: I’m considering getting an RWS 54 and was wondering just how accurate it is compared to the 350.

    Would a good shooter see much improvement in accuracy over the 350? Would an average shooter see much improvement?

    Thanks again for your time,


  107. jp,

    The RWS Diana 54 will easily outshoot the 350 Magnum. Even the best technique in the world will not make up the difference between these two rifles.

    The 54 is capable of half-inch groups at 50 yards. The 350 magnum might do 1.25″ groups.

    Technique makes all the difference in the world with a recoiling breakbarrel. An average shot will strriggle to get better than 4-inch groups at 50 yards with a 350.


  108. B.B.
    First of all, thanks for all the valuable information! Now to my question.

    I have an RWS 54 that I use to target-practice at home. To make it more like the High-Power rifles with which I compete at 200,300 & 600 yards, I have changed the rear sight to a Crosman diopter sight mounted on the scope rail, which works just fine.

    The problem is the front sight. I would like to mount the included Crosman hooded front sight, but the 54 has an angled front ramp that causes the hooded front sight to be at an angle – not good.

    RWS offers a hooded front sight, which costs almost as much as the Crosman diopter rear with hooded front(!), but every photo I have seen of this RWS front hooded sight appears to be just like the Crosman.

    Do you have a suggestion on how I may attain what I would like to have?
    Thanks for your time and help.

  109. Regarding the scope mount pin, I drilled a hole in the scope rail (it’s covered by the mount) for the pin and have had no problems.

    Regards and thanks for this great blog.

  110. I just got an rws 350 combo with professional scope install. I benchrest shoot 22 rimfire and have no problem shooting 5 shots through 1 ragged hole at 50 yards. So, I am an accuracy nut. Anyways, I do a lot of things to a 22 to get the accuracy up to par. I was checking out the pro install and noticed the scope was mounted too far forward for me and got to inspecting more closely. What I would like to do is to drill a hole in the rail and mount the scope where i have the best eye relief, then screw the stop down into the hole. Dont really know if thats a go or no go. Secondly, I somehow missed this blog/post section before i bought the rifle and now am having second thoughts with regards to accuracy. I am an extremely diciplined marksman and usually can get out of a weapon if its in there to get. My question is could the 350 magnum in 22 cal. ever 5 shot groups with holes touching (smaller than a dime)at 35 yards? Also that professional scope install had some plastic shims under the scope on the rear ring. I was going to lap the rings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Jim in Ky.

  111. Jim in KY,

    Your firearm shooting may be causing the problem.

    Are you using the artillery hold? It is essential when shooting a spring gun and especially a breakbarrel, which is the most sensitive gun to hold. You must allow the airgun to float when it shoots, so it can move as much as it wants to.

    Balance the forearm on the backs of your fingers, with you hand rested on a sandbag. DO NOT allow the rifle to touch the sandbag. Do not grasp the rifle with your fingers. Hold it loose enough that it can recoil as much as it want to.;

    After sighting, close your eyes and relax. Then open your eyes. The crosshairs should still be on target.

    Now as for a 350 Magnum shooting dime-sized group at 35 yards, I must say that is a stretch. You’ll only do it with perfect form and good pellets. Use JSB Exacts and try Crosman Premiers.

    Please read this post:


    And please give us some feedback on whether this has helped you.

    I also need to talk to you about your scope mount. Diana air rifles like yours are notorious for being difficult to scope.


  112. Thanks BB for your input. I finally got to shoot the rifle today. Fired about 15 pellets and I noticed the scope had sheared the stop and was sliding back. I dont understand how the steel pin sheared against an aluminum rail. Anyways, I will be contacting Pyramid tomorrow to see about sending the combo unit back. I paid $508 for the combo unit and 4 boxes of pellets and got to shoot it approximately 15 times and already have problems. I also noticed when I removed the professionally mounted scope that it had plastic shims under the rear scope mount. It was tightened so tight that it bent the scope in 2 places. Not what iexpected for a $500 pellet rifle. Do you have any suggestions for the same price range. I need 22 caliber with speed and…… accuracy. I will be using it to kill geese with head shots at about 35 to 50 yards. A rimfire isnt feasible for my particular situation. I researched some before i bought and evidentally didnt do enough. I really like the leapers scope though. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Jim in KY

  113. Jim in KY,

    What you really need is accuracy, not power. A 12 foot-pound rifle can do what you want. If you keep going for power you’ll never get the gun you want.

    Here are some great choices for you.

    A BAM B40 in .22 caliber, if you insist on letting someone else mount the scope.

    If you will mount the scope yourself, the possibilities are far greater.

    An RWS Diana 48 in .22 caliber.

    An RWS Diana 34 Panther in .22.

    Those are a few that come to mind.


  114. B.B.
    I happened upon an Air Arms TX 200 mk III and wanted your opinion on that one as well. I hate to keep tying up the blog, but I have no one else that is knowledgable to ask. I really dont know about ft lbs on air guns, but I do know that I may be shooting rats, crows,squirrells, geese, frogs, maybe if I can get a good enough shot a coyote or two. While I was typing this I decided to contact Pyramid Air and they took care of me absoultely the best you could ask for. Full refund and even sent a prepaid label so I wouldnt have to pay shipping and I immediately ordered a Dianna 48 and another Leapers 3x9x40 with mil dot and illum r/g recticle. I REALLY APPRECIATE your input. I am looking forward to getting the new gun.

    Jim in KY

  115. Nice Blog B.B,

    Yeah the 350 is extremely powerfull and accurate.I have been amazed by its results even though i couldnt get any farther than 40 yards due to the bad chinese scope i mounted….,which now doesnt respond to my adjustments at all! (the rifle was shooting 6 inches under target at 10 yards).I think it has broke from the inside.
    AND THAT BIG SCREW on the right of the mount,i don’t have it in my mount…probably coz i have a ‘Classic’ version of the 350 magnum (the one with thinner and longer wood stock).There is a professional version too which comes with an additional barrel weight.
    And btw,my scope have a 2 piece mount,and when i tightened well the stop pins,the scope havent moved backward.It is still on the same exact place after about 50 shots.SO probably new Diana rifles has improved their scope mount base (as i said,there is NO SCREW ON THE RIGHT OF MY MOUNT BASE)….
    Check on the new Classic 350 or professional 350 if you have one in your area.


    Fouad 🙂

  116. I recently Purchased a 350 magnum in .22 caliber. I mounted a Leapers 3-9×40 AO Mil-Dot Scope using an Accushot 1-Pc Mount w/1″ Rings, High, 11mm (the same setup Pyramyd sells as a combo package).

    I have read your blog on mounting scopes to this gun and was going to hang the stop pin off the front of the dovetail, but this also meant that one of the three bolts which clamp the rings to the dovetail would also hang off of the front of the ramp. I ended up turning the mount around and screwing the stop pin into the shallow hole in the rear of the dovetail.

    Does it matter if only two of the 3clamping bolts are directly clamping to the dovetail? Should I turn it around like you reccomended? (There is no visible evidence of the mounts sliding backward on the dovetail.)

    This is my first springer and I am still working on using the artillery technique I read about on this site. I can shoot a very tight group with a .22 rimfire at this range, but I am only able to get a group of about 1.5″ at 25 yards. I know my technique is weak at best, but I probably mounted the scope incorrectly?

    How much inaccuracy can be attributed to improper technique at 25 yards? I would rather not monkey around with the scope if it’s just my technique.

    Is there anything else that could be causing the large grouping?

    Thanks for your input,

  117. I recently Purchased a 350 magnum in .22 caliber. I mounted a Leapers 3-9×40 AO Mil-Dot Scope using an Accushot 1-Pc Mount w/1″ Rings, High, 11mm (the same setup Pyramyd sells as a combo package).

    I have read your blog on mounting scopes to this gun and was going to hang the stop pin off the front of the dovetail, but this also meant that one of the three bolts which clamp the rings to the dovetail would also hang off of the front of the ramp. I ended up turning the mount around and screwing the stop pin into the shallow hole in the rear of the dovetail.

    Does it matter if only two of the 3clamping bolts are directly clamping to the dovetail? Should I turn it around like you reccomended? (There is no visible evidence of the mounts sliding backward on the dovetail.)

    This is my first springer and I am still working on using the artillery technique I read about on this site. I can shoot a very tight group with a .22 rimfire at this range, but I am only able to get a group of about 1.5″ at 25 yards. I know my technique is weak at best, but I probably mounted the scope incorrectly?

    How much inaccuracy can be attributed to improper technique at 25 yards? I would rather not monkey around with the scope if it’s just my technique.

    Is there anything else that could be causing the large grouping?

    Thanks for your input,

  118. Wayne,

    That scope stop pin will now cut a furrow through the scope base on your rifle.

    It doesn’t matter that the one screw hangs over the front of the mount. As long as the stop pin is in front, you are okay.

    To check your shooting technique, take the scope off the rifle and try it with open sights. They should not shoot a tighter group.

    At 25 yards an improper technique with a 350 magnum could easily triple the size of the group.

    The wrong pellets could also cause a big group. Crosman Premiers and JSB Exacts will be fine.

    Don’t despair. I’ll stick with you until we sort this out.


  119. Hi B.B,

    I got the same groupings as wayn also….And when shooting at 40 yards,it took on average every 4 shot to hit a bottle of beer using open sights and even with my new 3-9x Gamo sporter scope,because if you shake your hand like 1/4 inch just before the shot,the target is a MISS at that distance,and also not to mention the heavy recoil of the 350 magnum.Is there any good quality bipod we can mount on it? I think the problem is with my hand holding the forearm.
    And also,The Gamo Sporter scope’s crasshair started to rotate RIGHT with every shot.It took like 30 shots overall until the ‘+’ crosshair became a ‘x'(due to rotation) and then after keeping the ‘x’ position for about 20 shots,the crosshair broke! (there is no intersection point anymore)….
    Do you have an idea what could have caused the problem? I mean why did it turn to the right several times BUT NEVER turned to left?? The single mount was tightened well and the scope was well into place and has never moved backward….


  120. Fouad ,

    You have now seen a scope break. The reticle twisted to the right because that was the path of least resistance. The erector tube is off its springs inside.

    As for the hole, you have to use the artillery hold! A bipod will not increase accuracy. All it will do is change the vibration nodes.


  121. B.B,

    I have put many shots today using OPEN SIGHTS.
    I have tried to not squeeze the buttpad to my shoulder and i let the airgun rest onto my open hand (palm of my hand).And my open hand where the forearm was resting ,was close to the trigger.And at about 10 yards,the group were 1 to 2 inches away from my aiming point….The rifle was really recoiling to the right! probably this is why the crosshair rotated to the right….i wonder why…..not a single shot on the left of my aiming point,all to the right because my right arm was moving slightly to the right due to heavy recoil of the rifle toward the RIGHT….what can i do about it?WHY THE GUN RECOILS TO THE RIGHT ?Is that normal? Should i counter the forearm to the left with my hand so that it stays on target?
    That is really weird


  122. Fouad,

    You ARE using the artillery hold! And you are doing it correctly! That is the only way you could have felt the spring torque that twists the rifle to the right.

    The mainspring is wound in a direction, and when it decompresses, it also twists in the direction it is wound. By holding lightly, you are able to feel this torque.


  123. BB:

    I just got a rws 350 shooters kit. i intend to install a muzzle brake for easier cocking. is it true that it will be a permanent change to the rifle? which would you recomend? BEEMAN Universal Muzzlebrake vs rws350 muzzlebrake (as in the new classic professional line??

    thanks for the advice.

  124. Jorge,

    “:Is it true…” sounds like you have reason to believe that it will be permanent. If so, pay attention to it.

    A muzzle brake usually puts small dimples in the bottom of the barrel where the grub screws dig in.

    As for which brake to use, I’d stick with the one from RWS Diana unless you know for a fact that the Beeman will fit. Universal brakes have shims to accomodate a wide range of barrel diameters, while brake that are purpose-built are much tighter.


  125. Hi B.B,

    I tried to fire with using Gamo Pro Magnum pellets ,and right after firing once,i noticed that the breech seal (o ring) fell to the ground when i cocked the gun,AND ALSO a thin round metal that was under the o ring fell.I fired without the breech seal twice .But i just put them back again in their place.What is that breech seal or ‘o ring’ intended for? What happens if you fire without the o ring and that thin metal under?Can it harm the airgun if you fire without them?



  126. B.B,

    Yes i see,….i just fired 2 shots without the seal and washer.Do you think these 2 shots had a negative effect on my barrel?Would it also affect the velocity or precision of the airgun?



  127. BB,
    Thank you for your advice on scoping my 350. My 25 yard groups have come down to under one inch and my technique is still improving.
    I do have some questions that you have touched on in various blogs. I understand that air rifle bores do not foul up from powder residue like firearms do and that the bores do not need cleaning very often.
    You did state that some pellets have a tendency to leave traces of lead (or other materials used in the pellet) in the bore. How does this affect accuracy? How often should I clean the bore?
    Which pellets are most prone to this occurring? Are the less expensive Crosman pellets such as the wadcutters and destroyers prone to this, also?
    Does a new rifle need the bore cleaned initially?
    I purchased a RWS shooter’s kit from Pyramyd that comes with RWS chamber lube, RWS spring cylinder oil, a brass brush and some cleaning pellets.
    Which of these appropriate for cleaning the bore?
    Thank you for any help you may give me. Your blog is an excellent resource for air gun knowledge.


  128. Wayne,

    The answer keeps evolving as I become more experienced with airguns. Yes, clean a new gun unless you want to break it in with 500 shots. Your RWS cleaning kit sounds fine. But you also need JB Non Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound to go on the brush.

    When pellets lead the bore they solder thin strips of lead to the metal of the barrel. As they accumulate that cause more lead to be deposited. Hard lead pellets are the worst offenders. And Crosman pellets are hardened with antimony.


  129. BB.

    My new 350rws has been dieseling (as per description in this blog) on and off for the first 20-30 shots since i got it from the box 2 wks. ago. Should i continue firing? should i clean the piston chamber? is it going to stop by itself when the oil is consumed?

    appreciate your help

    I decided not to get the muzzlebrake (my arm doesnt reach that far).


  130. B.B.,
    Just wondering if and when you might be testing Diana’s new line of 350’s. I believe they call it the “Diana RWS 350 Feuerkraft Pro” and “Pro Compact”. It’s prob mechanically the same as the Diana 350 Magnum but I have to wonder if the new stock will make it less sensitive to hold.

    Bill S.

  131. Thanks B.B.!

    I have another couple questions that’s off topic if you have time:

    My Dad has a Tech Force 99 in 22 cal and he was wondering if it would be worth having it tuned. The trigger is long and creepy and it recoils like a mule but its fun to shoot scoped at 40 yards or so. I found a guy at Airgun Toys who tunes them but I was wondering what your take was. Do you think much could be accomplished by tuning it?

    Also, the screws are horrible about coming loose and are very soft metal. I was wondering if I could replace the recessed stock screws with some good quality Socket Head Cap Screws of equal length and size. I’m not sure what the threads are but I’m sure I could find a better quality screw to use at the local Nut and Bolt Supply House like Fastenal. I usually get and replace all the cheap screws on my Motorcycles with good quality Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screws from Fastenal anyway.

    **This way if you had a real brute like the Webley Patriot you could carry a single Allen wrench with you in the field or on the range and snug them up as needed. Not over tightening of course…

    Bill S.

  132. B.B. Sir,
    I have broken two Beeman 4-12x40mm AO/TT illuminted reticle scopes on two piece mounts with my RWS 350.22since december ’07. 1st in feb.’08 shearing the retaing screws on the illumination dial. 2nd in march ’08shooting loose a lens in the front part of the tube loosing my field of view.
    I have spoken to Umarex and they admit the 350 is that way. They suggest using their expensive ASR scopes.
    I have read reviews on Pyramid about the Leapers scopes in similar specifications. I am leaning towards the economy and features the Leapers Scopes have. Sir What is your recommendation? I’d like to shoot more and break less.

  133. B.B.,
    Well, I started reading the comments from the top looking for the answer to my RWS 350 question but got a cross-eyed headache about 1/3 of the way through. LOL!

    Anyway, if this has been covered elsware in this blog I do apologize but where can I find different front sight inserts for the RWS 350? My Dad want’s to convert his to a square post. Bad eyesight I guess. Hah!

    Best Regards,
    Bill S.

  134. B.B.,

    a few weeks ago I bought a Diana 350 Magnum.
    Was it also your experience with this gun, that the rear of the barrel isn’t deeply enough chamfered to accept the pellet without damaging it, when you close it? Especially at the bottom of the pellet …

    And what do you think about Simalux Scopes?
    The manufacturer gives a five year warranty for some of the scopes for not breaking with powerful breakbarrel rifles.
    I’m not sure if they are also available in your country.

    I’m sorry for my bad english. 🙂

    Greets from germany

  135. Derek,

    Your comment is very common for all Diana breakbarrel air rifles. They ALL damage the skirts of the pellets when the breech is closed.

    There are two possible solutions.

    1. Use smaller pellets. I don’t recommend this.

    2. Use a proble to seat the pellet into the barrel 3mm. This is the good thing to do.

    No, I’m not familiar with Simalux scopes. I don’t think they are available in the U.S., yet. Thanks for the tip though.


  136. B.B.,

    thanks for the fast response.
    I think your second suggestion is the best way to solve the problem.

    I got another issue. Do you have any explosion drawings or perhaps even a disassembling manual for the RWS 350 magnum?

    Regards Derek

  137. I just bought the “B-Square 17021 11mm-to-Weaver“ which has an adjustable elevation screw (with set screw). This is great for RWS 350 owners. I mounted a pair of “B-Square 20052 1″ Sport Utility Rings, Low, Weaver Mount“ for a perfect fit.

    Other than tightening the rings a little after some rounds I have found the whole assembly very sound. I was prepared to put Loctite blue on the screws but it appears I don’t need to.

    This leapers mount looks great for serious barrel droop but if you own a RWS 350 then you should go this route. Don’t forget to optically sight your scope as BB has posted. It helped a lot when getting my gun working with this new setup.

    I dumped my RWS C-Mounts – they’re junk!

    G. :o)

  138. dear mr B.B.,

    i bought diana 350 magnum superior caliber .177
    my question is what are the most accurate pellets for said rifle?
    i am using the diana pellets called diana-Magnum and diana-High power since they are compatible(same brand) but i am not satified they are not that accurate may it is my shooting tech. noting i am using your tech. i.e. floating it very lightly
    what do you recommend?
    i read all your reviews about 350 magnum but i was questioning myself since yr reviews dated two years ago so is there old diana 350 and a new one? if so do all the reviews valid for the new one?
    what do you recommed as a scope cause i am using also the diana magnum scope assuming to get best result re high recoil and accurancy


  139. Spiro,

    There is just one 350…not an old one and a new one.

    A Leapers scope base (these are made especially for the Diana rifles) is a new product you should be using to mount any scope to this rifle. Here is the link, which you will have to cut-and-paste into your browser:


    Recommended scopes are a Leapers, UTG or CenterPoint 3-9x or 4-16x. Here are some of the links (cut-and-paste the links into your browser):


    Best pellets include Crosman Premier, JSB Exact Diabolo (8.4 grains) and RWS Superdome.

    B.B. is at a convention and cannot answer this directly, so I called him on the phone and he gave me the above info.

    To get more feedback from more people, I suggest posting all your airgun questions on the current blog, which can be found here:

    (Please cut-and-paste the above into your browser).

    Edith (Mrs. B.B.)

  140. Mine was the same. Its okay to see a little “white smoke” after shooting. This is excess oil from manufacture.

    Its *not* okay to hear a big bang – and you will if you put too much oil or do so more often than the recommended 1000 round interval.

    Keep shooting. If you’re worried, give it a break for 5 minutes, and continue.

    I clean my barrel when accuracy drops off or 500 rounds. I use the Beeman cleaning patch pushed through, dry, with a 177 caliber push rod. I do this until I see no more “silver” on the patch. And I’m back to killer accuracy for another 500 rounds.

    I found Beeman Kodiak *Match* Heavy, 10.5gr pellets work best. The match pellets have the advantage of being from the same batch when you order several tins. AND the Kodiak Match slip into the barrel nice and easy whereas the non match grade tend to catch or fight on the way in. Oh yes, the Kodiaks retain a lot of energy, even at 50 yards you have 12ft/lbs.

    I had two scopes, both rated for adult stringers and both failed. Try using the iron sights, once I got the hang of them I am able to shoot 1.5″ freehand at 20 yards without any problem.

    Finally, when oiling the chamber… Cock it, put two drops of the recommended oil in, close the barrel, and leave it standing upright for 30-60 minutes. Firing before will cause a combustion and potential damage. Next, fire 15 rounds to remove excess oil (dieseling) and then clean using the procedure above. You’re set for another 1000 rounds. Since your gun is new you can run it 1500 rounds before your first oiling. Do not over oil the compression chamber – it will disable your gun.

  141. One more thing: always put the cleaning rod in from the breech, never the muzzle. Remember the rifling terminates at the muzzle and any damage there will cause the air to escape unevenly as the round exits – throwing it off course.

  142. After shooting my 350 177 for thousands of rounds I found removing the scope and using open sights to be the most accurate. Your cheek weld and shouldering is more repeatable since. The open sights don't lose zero, not even a little bit.

  143. RWS 350 .177, shooting hand selected (no deformed skirt) Crow Magnum pellets take down tree rats inside 20 yards with a heart/lung or head shot first time. I'm using open sight with a supported position (hand on stable surface).

    This gun is a great pest control tool or wonderful plinker, open sight, to 30 yards easy.

    I found scoping to be difficult however, so don't waste time and money, work the open sights.

  144. B.B,
    I am looking at the Diana 350 Compact in .22 caliber, which comes with a 15" barrel insted of the standard 19" barrel. Would this shorter barrel length change the accuracy and velocity numbers when compared to a standerd version.Thanks


  145. BB,

    Looks like it's been over a couple years since the last comment but I have a question and I don't know who else to ask.

    I'm looking to get my boyfriend a new airgun this holiday season. He's no stranger to airguns and he has an RWS 34, so I know he'll appreciate a powerhouse like the 350.

    My question is what are the differences between all the 350s? I see that there is a 350 Panther, 350 Magnum, 350 Feuerkraft, 350 Feuerkraft Pro Compact. Are there any minor or major performance differences?

    I want to get him the 350 Feuerkraft Pro Compact, but I'm not sure what the differences are (besides cosmetics) and the prices seem to differ as well. I'm not sure if the shorter barrel on the Pro Compact leads to reduced performance.


  146. JRB, The shorter barrel might tend to shift the center of gravity back towards the shooter making the gun feel a little more balanced, but given the fact that
    PyramydAir lists the Compact as being even heavier than the standard model, I'm not sure that's the case here.

    The shorter barrel might make the gun easier to handle when hunting. But it also makes the gun a lot harder to cock – if you look at the specs the standard 350 takes 33lbs to cock, and the Compact needs 42lbs. It might get tiring after a while.

    Performance shouldn't change much, if at all. All models share the same powerplant and trigger.

    Other than that, the models play out like so:

    Feuerkraft = cheapest with a plainer stock

    Magnum = the 'classic' RWS 350 which has been on the market for years. It has a fancier stock with a raised cheekpiece.

    Feuerkraft Compact = shorter barrel and harder cocking and no open sights (NEEDS a scope!)

    350 Panther = synthetic (plastic) stock

    I might suggest going with the classic 350 Magnum, and that the nicer stock is worth the $10 over the base Feuerkraft. The RWS Panther Synthetic stocks are nice, but I'd still suggest that the wood stock is nicer.

    Another thing I DON'T like about the Compact is the fact that it has no open sights. If the scope breaks (and the 350 is capable of breaking some scopes) there's no other way of aiming the gun without mounting another scope.

    If the shorter length really seems like it might be an advantage for him, I'd suggest thinking about the RWS 48. It's even shorter than the Compact, almost as powerful, easier to cock, easier to shoot well, and better balanced.

    One more thing – don't believe the velocity figures for the 350. It is a powerful gun, but those numbers are not very realistic.

  147. JRB – I just took another look at the Compact and noticed something else.

    Look at the scope mounts. See how they're 2 piece? When you 'click to take a closer look' you can see that each mounts has a single screw clamping it on to the gun. These are cheap scope mounts, and I'd suggest they are not the best match for this rifle.

    If you look at the mount on the Magnum Striker combo, you'll see how it's one piece with 3 clamp screws. While still not the best mount out there, it's certainly stronger than the one used on the Compact.

  148. JRB,

    Vince has given you some very good and detailed information. To that I will add this:

    Although the 350 is a fine air rifle, it is very hard to cock and several of our readers are now getting rid of their rifles and going to something that easier to cock. If your boyfriend shoots a lot, he's going to find this model a chore after 20 shots. But if he shoots only a little, then this probably won't be a factor.

    I agree with Vince that the wood stock gun is the way to go. And don't get a gun with a short barrel, or the cocking situation will become unmanageable.

    I hope he appreciates all you do to find nice gifts for him.


  149. Thanks Vince and BB,

    Yes I'm sure he'll appreciate the wood stock better than a synthetic one. Also, thanks for suggesting the RWS 48 I'll have to look at that one.

    And believe me, BB, I certainly hope he appreciates. haha. My other friends are buying their boyfriends cologne or videogames for Christmas.. I'm buying mine a pellet rifle!

    Thanks again

  150. FWIW – some time ago I was testing a trigger mod I did on an RWS 52 (which is the same basic gun as the 48). I put 100 quick rounds through it in one sitting without too much trouble, and I'm not a "he-man" by any stretch.

    Don't know if I could've done that with my 350.

    Ditto on BB's comment, BTW. And you're certainly looking at some quality stuff. Seems you've got a good eye for this sort of thing…

  151. BB,

    I have another question. I'm just about almost set on getting the 350. However, I was looking at other respected brands and came across the Benjamin Discovery. How does this fair when comparing it to the 350?

    I know that it's a PCP and it's two different worlds. I've done a good deal of research and it seems like the 350 is something that "wears in, it doesn't wear out" and that it can last several lifetimes. Can the same be said about the Discovery?


  152. JRB,

    the 350 is a great rifle but like all spring piston rifles, it takes a long learning curve to shoot it accurately. You MUST become proficient with the artillery hold. It's also a very heavy rifle so factor that in as well as cocking it. It will build up your shoulder muscles! On the other hand, the Discovery is a recoiless rifle and because of that, there is no learning curve to shoot it accurately. The Disco is a very well made rifle and there are now numerous upgrades available – trigger, sound moderators and even a multi-round clip that will convert it into a repeater.

    I have both rifles and love them both. It now depends on what you want from the rifle and what you will do with it. A tough call!!!!

    One other thing – this blog is some 4 years old and very few of us monitor them. If you want more comments and I'm sure BB will chime in shortly (he's probably out at the range testing equipment), post to the current blog. This can be found at:


    Good luck with whatever you decide on.

    Fred PRoNJ

  153. Oh, as for longevity – I don't think you have to worry about either rifle – one is German made, the other US – no Chinese parts or assembly in either one – so far.

    Fred PRoNJ

  154. JRB,

    The Discovery is just about the same power as the 350 Magnum. And it is quite a bit more accurate, not intrinsically, but because it is easier to shoot. It doesn't require much technique, where the 350 Magnum needs a lot of it.

    Both rifles will still be working centuries from now, as evidenced by PCPs that are already 300 years old and still operate. There are no springers that old, but they are so understressed that we can tell they will last a similar time.


  155. I have a diana panther 350 magnum to. Its is a very good air rifle ,but has a very big disadvantages…
    diana has a pellet witch is called 'diana magnum rabbit' if you shoot one of those pellets your scope will knock back!

  156. Dear B.B.

    I bought my new RWS 350 .22 magnum a few days back. I had owned HW80 .22 FAC version and shot Gamo Extreme 1250 .22, Webley Patriot .22 and several other famous springers. I have not come across any magnum springers as good as RWS 350 .22 magnum. Overall rating is better than the rest I have experienced. I know the tachnique of shooting magnum springers. RWS 350 is the easiest of them all, as for me. I am satisfied with the new beast.


    Spring-Air rifle-Lover

  157. Spring-air rifle lover,

    It's always good to hear a report that praises an airgun. And in .22 caliber I'm sure the 350 Magnum has a lot going for it.

    You certainly have shot some of the best .22s, so you have the experience make a good call.

    Thanks for the feedback,


  158. My new 350 magnum in 177 with a UTG accushot 3-12+44 mag scope will arrive soon, I have a 1998 model 36 diana and love it. Im staying with the RWS because of there reputation and the reviews about the 350 where more than I could ask for. And with so many choices on a rifle its not easy to pick one, and its also a good looking gun. Cant wait to start shooting and see what this gun will do. From what BB and the reviews say about shooting the 350 Im glad I have shooting time with my 36 it might help me to get the 350 sited in a little sooner.

  159. They say springers are not soppose to be left cocked for a long time, so what is a safe amount of time that you can leave it cocked? And would there be a differance between my model 36 and my new 350 magnum. Thank BB.

  160. BB I have the r w s 36 and 350 magnum there shooting pretty good I’m finding out there’s a lot about how you hold them when shooting for accuracy. Question do you think that a bore sighter would benefit me for better accuracy, l mostly shoot 25 to 40 yards. Thanks Rich

    • Laser bore sighters have instructions suggesting one use a 70-100 yard range (which I find means using them at dusk or later as the beam can’t be seen in sunlight at a mere 40 yards).

      Even then, they assume the real bullet trajectory is only going to be an inch or two low — which would put the bullets still on the paper at that distance.

      Optical bore sighters (collimators with a grid pattern) are similar — they set the grid at “infinity”, and after one accounts for scope height, one can adjust for estimated bullet drop at distance).

      They don’t do anything for “better accuracy”; they only speed up zeroing a scope by making sure the first shots are on paper (in theory).

Leave a Comment

Buy With Confidence

  • Free Shipping

    Get FREE shipping on qualifying orders! Any order $150+ with a shipping address in the contiguous US will receive the option for free ground shipping on items sold & shipped by Pyramyd AIR during checkout. Certain restrictions apply.

    Free shipping may not be combined with a coupon unless stated otherwise.

    View Shipping Info

  • Shipping Time Frame

    We work hard to get all orders placed by 12 pm EST out the door within 24 hours on weekdays because we know how excited you are to receive your order. Weekends and holiday shipping times will vary.

    During busy holidays, we step our efforts to ship all orders as fast as possible, but you may experience an additional 1-2 day delay before your order ships. This may also happen if you change your order during processing.

    View Shipping Times

  • Shipping Restrictions

    It's important to know that due to state and local laws, there are certain restrictions for various products. It's up to you to research and comply with the laws in your state, county, and city. If you live in a state or city where air guns are treated as firearms you may be able to take advantage of our FFL special program.

    U.S. federal law requires that all airsoft guns are sold with a 1/4-inch blaze orange muzzle or an orange flash hider to avoid the guns being mistaken for firearms.

    View Shipping Restrictions

  • Expert Service and Repair

    Get the most out of your equipment when you work with the expert technicians at Pyramyd AIR. With over 25 years of combined experience, we offer a range of comprehensive in-house services tailored to kickstart your next adventure.

    If you're picking up a new air gun, our team can test and tune the equipment before it leaves the warehouse. We can even set up an optic or other equipment so you can get out shooting without the hassle. For bowhunters, our certified master bow technicians provide services such as assembly, optics zeroing, and full equipment setup, which can maximize the potential of your purchase.

    By leveraging our expertise and precision, we ensure that your equipment is finely tuned to meet your specific needs and get you ready for your outdoor pursuits. So look out for our services when shopping for something new, and let our experts help you get the most from your outdoor adventures.

    View Service Info

  • Warranty Info

    Shop and purchase with confidence knowing that all of our air guns (except airsoft) are protected by a minimum 1-year manufacturer's warranty from the date of purchase unless otherwise noted on the product page.

    A warranty is provided by each manufacturer to ensure that your product is free of defect in both materials and workmanship.

    View Warranty Details

  • Exchanges / Refunds

    Didn't get what you wanted or have a problem? We understand that sometimes things aren't right and our team is serious about resolving these issues quickly. We can often help you fix small to medium issues over the phone or email.

    If you need to return an item please read our return policy.

    Learn About Returns

Get FREE shipping on qualifying orders! Any order $150+ with a shipping address in the contiguous US will receive the option for free ground shipping on items sold & shipped by Pyramyd AIR during checkout. Certain restrictions apply.

Free shipping may not be combined with a coupon unless stated otherwise.

View Shipping Info

Text JOIN to 91256 and get $10 OFF Your Next $50+ Order!

* By providing your number above, you agree to receive recurring autodialed marketing text msgs (e.g. cart reminders) to the mobile number used at opt-in from Pyramyd AIR on 91256. Reply with birthday MM/DD/YYYY to verify legal age of 18+ in order to receive texts. Consent is not a condition of purchase. Msg frequency may vary. Msg & data rates may apply. Reply HELP for help and STOP to cancel. See Terms and Conditions & Privacy Policy.