Teach a person to shoot: Part 1
Teach a person to shoot: Part 2
Teach a person to shoot: Part 3
Teach a person to shoot: Part 4
Teach a person to shoot: Part 5
by B.B. Pelletier
Today, we’ll talk about triggers. Besides the sights, the trigger is the most important part of a target airgun. On a pistol, the trigger is just as important as the sights, because the proper use of the trigger promotes stability and control over the handgun.
How light should a trigger be?
Many veteran shooters like their triggers to be as light as they can be, commensurate with safety. Indeed, on world-class 10-meter target rifles, the trigger-pulls can be adjusted to mere tens of grams. But, a light trigger is not good for the beginning shooter for a number of reasons, with safety being the overriding one. By the way, the guns are called 10-meter guns because the targets we shoot are 10 meters, or just under 33 feet, distant. That distance is measured from the muzzle of the gun – both rifle and pistol.
The types of target rifles that are intended for training shooters have heavy (for competiton guns) trigger-pulls. Crosman’s Challenger 2000, for example, has a two-stage trigger that breaks at 3 lbs. Daisy’s Avanti 853, which has been around for decades, has a single-stage 6-lb. trigger! Neither one is adjustable. Both companies have learned the hard way that new shooters, and some who should know better, are not cautious about the trigger, so they make their triggers on the heavy side. This is perfect for the beginner. By the time they know exactly what they want in a trigger, the safety procedures will be deeply ingrained.
Watch each new shooter!
An instructor faces the moment of truth every time a new shooter touches a gun. The most dangerous part of the gun is the muzzle; however, at the same time, the instructor must watch how the shooter addresses the trigger. I have some friends who instinctively put their trigger fingers on the trigger of a gun every time they pick one up. These are dangerous people! If memory serves me, every one of them has had at least one shooting accident. Do not allow new shooters to get into the bad habit of touching the trigger before they’re ready to take the shot. Make them hold their trigger finger straight out alongside the triggerguard until the proper command is given to shoot.
The RIGHT (and only) way to squeeze a trigger!
There is just one way to squeeze a trigger to obtain the best accuracy. I will describe rifles first, and then pistols. First, get into your position so the rifle is fairly close to the intended target. Then take a deep cleansing breath and let it out. Next, breathe deep and let about half out. You now have five seconds or less to sight and squeeze off the shot. Align the sights and take up the first stage. This is where a single-stage trigger becomes a liability. When the second stage is reached, squeeze with increasing pressure while keeping the sights aligned with the target. If you go longer than five seconds, relax and begin again. If all you have is a single-stage trigger, pretend it is the second stage of a two-stage trigger. The reason for the five-second limit is that after that time, your muscles will start twitching and throwing you slightly off target. If you watch a champion shooter, they get the shot off in three seconds or less.
The shot should come as a surprise. Keep practicing until it does. If you intentionally make the shot go off, you will move the gun, however slight, and that’s called “flinching.” At this point, you’ll also understand the necessity of an overtravel adjustment. It makes the trigger that much more precise. When you have done this a thousand times, you will get a feel for your trigger and how it has to be manipulated.
Trigger work with the pistol
First, get into your stance. Raise the pistol with your eyes closed, and the sights should be on the bullseye when you open your eyes again. If not, move your feet until they are. I like to point both toes slightly inward to put tension on my legs; it gives a more solid stance. Then, you’re ready to shoot. Rest the loaded pistol on the shooting table and take a cleansing breath. Take another breath and let half out as you raise the pistol and drop it back until the sights are aligned with the target. This starts your five seconds. Squeeze the first stage out and begin the second stage. Increase pressure until the pistol fires. If you take too long, release the trigger and start over.
After the student has fired many shots and about five times as many dry-fire shots using exactly the same technique, they will be proficient with that trigger.
10 thoughts on “Teach a person to shoot: Part 6”
Great series on teaching– I learned a lot, even though I’ve been shooting for many years.
How about some info and thoughts on the Remmington Summit. I know it’s a Crosman product & has beautiful wood. But beauty doesn’t shoot! Any other readers have experience with this one?
Love my CF-X, thinking about adding a breakbarrel, the Summit is on my list. Thanks
Unfortunately I won’t be able to get to the Summit for quite a while because of so many other guns and things scheduled. So if some of out readers own Summits, I hope they will comment on how they like their rifle.
Hmm, Might have to do 2 postings a day until you catch up to demand.
P.S. Looking forward to Lapping and Polishing of Barrels.
Do tx200, hw77 or rws48 have choked barrels?
That’s a good question, but I don’t know the answer.
speaking of postings scheduled, I hope the one about the Anics Skif 3000 pistol is still on that list … I have one and am curious to see if you find the same issue I have, very high trigger pull weigh, even higher in DA than SA, which makes keeping a good sight picture very tough.
RWS 48/52/54 indeed have choked barrels
The Skif is on the list. There are many reasons why the pistol isn’t especially accurate. I will cover them in my report.
I have put around 1000 pellets through my new Hurricane over the past 2 months and searched these blogs extensively for ways of improving accuracy over my 10 yard indoor range. I wear glasses for reading and need them to focus on the front sight. The back site is blurred, as is the target. I read several BB articles and practiced the hold and trigger finger.
Sometimes I am amazed at the grouping at 10 yards. And yet, suddenly one will fly off the target, or grouping is lost completely on the next round of 8 shots. Accuracy seems to be all in the way the pistol is held (or shakes). If I can stop it shaking I can almost hit the back of the previous shot.
Is there any type of exercise or practice or preparation that should be done to reduce gun movement?
PS – I stopped drinking whisky, so that is not the root cause!
That random flier you mention happens to all pistol shooters. I have even seen my hand twitch just as the shot goes off, as though my hand resented what the rest of my body was doing.
The solution is practice, practice and more practice.