by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Air Venturi’s V10 Match pistol.
This report covers:
- R10 Match Pistol
- H&N Finale Match Light
- Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
- Cocking/pumping effort
- Trigger pull
- What’s happening
I was surprised by the amount of interest the Air Venturi Match pistol generated in Part 1. A lot of you are interested in it, so besides reviewing it in the usual fashion I’m going to show you some things about this pistol and about single stroke pneumatics in general that aren’t widely known or discussed.
Today is velocity day, so I will begin there. Because this is a target pistol I’ll test it with target pellets. It’s rated to 400 f.p.s., so let’s find out what this one does.
R10 Match Pistol
I’ll begin with the RWS R10 Match Pistol pellet that is often extremely accurate in target air pistols and even in air rifles of lower power. In the test V10 they averaged 379 f.p.s. for 10 shots. The low was 377 and the high was 383 f.p.s., so a total spread of 6 f.p.s. Single stroke airguns are usually very stable, so this low spread is not surprising. At the average velocity this pellet generated 2.23 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle.
I will say the R10 pellets I used fit the V10’s breech very tight. I didn’t know what to make of that.
H&N Finale Match Light
The second pellet I tested was the H&N Finale Match Light pellet. The pellets I linked to weigh 7.87 grains, but the pellets I shot were older and weigh 7.5 grains. I weighed several and they were all that weight. In the V10 they averaged 366 f.p.s., with a spread that went from a low of 357 to a high of 370 f.p.s. That’s a range of 13 f.p.s. At the average velocity this pellet produced an identical 2.23 foot-pounds at the muzzle. And these also fit snug, though not as tight as the R10s.
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
The last pellet I tested was the Sig Match Ballistic Alloy target pellet that weighs just 5.25 grains. We know that being lighter will make this pellet go faster, but we also acknowledge that this target pellet in one of the most accurate pellets we have tested in lower-powered airguns across the board. So this isn’t just a bragging-rights test. In the test pistol they averaged 412 f.p.s. with a spread that went from 399 to 417 f.p.s. That’s a range of 18 f.p.s. At the average velocity this pellet generated 1.98 foot-pounds at the muzzle. These were snug but not tight in the breech.
The test pistol is about where I expected it to be, in terms of velocity. Now I will test the cocking effort and the trigger pull, because that is what I do in a part 2 report. Then I have a surprise. Something different that will help all owners of single stroke pneumatics.
Single strokes are cocked and pumped at the same time. What would be the cocking effort in other airguns is really the pumping effort in an SSP. Of course, by their nature these guns are only cocked/pumped once per shot. It’s not like a multi-pump where there are different efforts for each pump stroke.
So — what does it take to pump this one? To test the effort I opened the pistol them laid the top of the gun on a bathroom scale and pressed down on the bottom half until the gun closed. The effort ranged from a low of 20 lbs. to a high of 23 lbs. and I could control it by how hard I pressed down. If I wanted it as low as possible I simply did not press down as hard and allowed more time for the pistol to close. If I wanted it to go higher I rushed it. That is a “secret” of pumping single strokes that you can apply to your guns.
Now let’s measure that trigger pull. Using an electronic scale I measured stage two at between 2 lbs. 2 oz. and 2 lbs. 9 oz. Stage one was a uniform 12 oz.
There is an adjustment screw on the back of the grip near the bottom. I adjusted it in both directions for 15 minutes and all I did was make the pull heavier. When I finished the trigger pull was 2 lbs. 14 oz. I did establish that turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise, like the manual says, does increase the pull to over 3 lbs. I just never was able to get it lighter than 2 lbs. 10 oz. after starting to adjust.
The trigger pull adjustment screw is in a deep hole at the bottom rear of the grip.
In the next report I plan to show you a secret about this trigger. And I hope to reduce the pull at that time.
Okay, here is today’s surprise. I reshot all of the pellets a second time. I shot each one three times. Let me show you what happened.
RWS R10 Pistol
H&N Finale Match Light
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
Whaaaaat? How is this possible?
It’s simple. I just softened and heated the pump head before taking each shot this time. This is something I did on the first year of American Airgunner with my tired old IZH 46 pistol. I showed the viewers how to renew their single stroke pneumatic pump cups by how they pumped their guns.
Here is how I did it. I loaded a pellet then pushed the top strap halfway down to closure and then released it again six times. I could feel the pressure building on each abbreviated pump stroke. Each time you do that the pump cup flexes as it fills with air. Do it several times in a row and the pump cup gets warm and softer. It then seals much better when you complete the pump stroke on the 7th try. There is no magic in the 6 tries. You will get results from doing it any number of times.
I initially did this to rejuvenate my old IZH 46 pump cup, but it works for all single strokes. Try it! Oh, you will need a chronograph.
The pump cup or head on a single stroke pneumatic is soft and flexible enough to expand quickly when the gun is pumped. Not only does it compress air, when it ends up at the end of the pump stroke it also seals the compressed air in front of it. There is no special inlet valve doing this — just the pump head. That’s why it’s recommended to shoot the gun soon after pumping, so the head doesn’t remain under pressure, because as flexible as it is, it can’t stand the pressure very long.
When the pump cup gets old the material it’s made of hardens and isn’t as flexible. This little drill will rejuvenate it for a short while. To find out how long the effect lasts, I tested the gun again with the same pellets. This time I just pumped it like normal — no half-pumps. No more than two minutes had passed since the previous test with half-pumps.
RWS R10 Pistol
After the half-pump test…380
H&N Finale Match Light
After the half-pump test…370
Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
After the half-pump test…430
So, immediately after the drill of warming the pump cup, the velocity has returned to nearly normal, when the gun was pumped and fired as usual. That demonstrates that if you want the higher velocities you need to do the half-pumps on every shot.
That’s it for today’s report, but we are not done with the pistol yet. Before we move to accuracy, I want to show you what can be done with the trigger.
26 thoughts on “Air Venturi Match pistol: Part 2”
Looking at the effort to simply cock this pistol I can see why they abandoned this platform at shifted to PCPs. Even though the effort is relatively low the number of times this has to be cocked over a course of fire would really take a toll on the stability of the hand of the shooter.
You got it! The FWB 103, which is the highest evolution of the SSP target pistol ever (I think) cocks about the same as this and only the IZH 46 cocks easier. Well, the Daisy 777 also cocks easier, but it isn’t a competitive pistol at the national level.
PCPs are the way to go.
So does pumping a Beeman P17 three times for full power basically do the same thing for it too? Making half pumps unnecessary.
ALL SSPs need half-pumps! If you fully pump the Beeman P17 three times, you waste the effort of the first two pumps.
The half-pumps warm up the pump cup. Full pumps do the same thing, but with much more effort expended.
You have my curiosity piqued as to what you are going to do with the trigger. It is a post with moveable shoe design. You normally do not do anything other than adjust. A mod. perhaps? 2+ pounds seems a “bit” heavy for a target pistol. Then again, it is just $200 and might make a good first foray into the sport.
Good Day to one and all,…….. Chris
I will tell you what I’m going to do. It was in the earlier tests I linked to in Part 1. I’m going to lubricate the trigger parts. No modifications.
This would be a superb “first” target pistol, most especially after you lube the trigger. Would I replace my Izzy with it? No, but this would be a top notch plinker for those feral soda cans.
I guess this is one of the reasons the action pistols just hold no interest for me. They are not near as interesting as my Izzy.
Know you will compare accuracy for warming the pump cup vs not. Well I hope you will. Unless accuracy is enhanced by the half pumps why do it? My 3 single stroke guns are not humane for hunting.
Looking forward to accuracy tests and your trigger lube technique! I find myself wanting this gun if it can beat my Daisy Avanti 747.
I hadn’t planned to test warming the pump cup and I still don’t see a reason to do it.
I only mention this for the benefit of those whose pump cups have gotten hard with time. With a new pistol like I am testing it really isn’t necessary.
Got it. I had a momentary lapse into “souping it up”. Still, if velocity consistency improves with heat —– but you have already tested that.
Sorry to hijack the thread but it would be nice for someone with a .177 Aspen and a chrono to duplicate BB’s testing to see how many pumps it takes to hold.177 pellets to a constant velocity. From what I recall of FX Indy testing, it took 1 pump after each shot to hold the Indy at a constant velocity. It would be nice to be able to air it up to 2000 PSI with a tank and hold it there with one pump. If it’s accurate out to 55 yards, it might make me rethink my next airgun purchase.
After shooting, my Maximus Euro in several field target matches, I’ve found that it will consistently hit 3/8 inch kill zones out go 20 yards if the jerk behind the trigger doesn’t jerk the trigger.
Is there an “ideal” velocity for match air arms? I would think that consistency would be be the greatest desire. Paper does not care how hard it is hit. As long as it is consistent and has enough velocity to cut clean holes. At 10 Meters one should not need much velocity.
I have a P17 clone and can say that it is more accurate than I am at my level. Once the O-Ring was replaced (common issue) it has been very consistent.
Good question. There does seem to be an established velocity range for target airguns. For pistols it ranges from around 375 to about 500 f.p.s. Rifles range from 450 to around 625 f.p.s. Like you mentioned, tearing the paper cleanly is a concern, though with the higher-end guns it’s not as great, since they don’t shoot at paper targets in national-level matches and above. They do shoot at paper, but the holes are scored by sound triangulation at the paper and are much more accurate than the old standby of visual scoring. The shooter sees an image of the shot on a video screen.
I remember seeing Daisy 777s in matches that were not tearing round holes in the paper targets. That gave the scorers fits — not on every shot, but one or two in a match. Those guns were probably running around 325 f.p.s. or even less. And by the way — at the regional (several states) matches I competed in, we only shot one shot per bull! That simplified scoring tremendously, but a 60-shot match burned up a lot of targets!
Consistency is indeed more important than velocity, and also since PCPs lead the technology for both rifles and pistols, air conservation is a concern.
The whole topic of measuring groups seems to leave room for quite a bit of interpretation. How you measure some of yours I will never know. Throw in some serious competition and class standings and I can see where things could become quite heated/controversial.
As many here know, I back with corrugated cardboard and put duct tape on the back side of the bull/paper. Very nice and it helps a lot, but not perfect all of the time. Quality graph paper is the go to, but have made some on the computer and print them on standard copy paper.
Wadcutters obviously cut cleaner. In the case of domes, less so. My holes are usually very clean, but the hole itself is often smaller than the pellet. Micro tears will surround it, but nothing big.
Q: So, do competitions use target backers?
Q: Second,…. is there some “finer” points to calling/measuring groups that are less than ideal/clear? Maybe you have already done an article on it?
One obvious thought would be,… is the backer removed, the paper/holes flattened and then measured? Or,.. measured while still on the backer?
I know to measure the out-to-out and then subtract pellet diameter. Sometimes,… you have to ask,.. “Just exactly where is the outside of the outside?” For me and just me, I use digital calipers and measure (eyeball) center to center. For what I do,… it is close enough. Often times, a millimeter ruler is close enough.
So,…. any thoughts on the finer points of (measuring) groups? I do understand that when using ring scores of 1-10,… things are a bit easier when going for points.
I’m off to church in a few minutes, but it looks like you might have suggested a blog topic.
Very good. Competition can exist with ones self or within a structured competition. Either way,… making an accurate call would be key if serious. Certainly so for anyone considering/prepping for competition and being judged/scored.
I can easily see the common term of “splitting hairs” coming into play. At any rate,…. I hope that you can put something together on the topic. I for one wonder,.. and have asked. And,… as you have said,… if one ask,… then there must be 100 more that have not.
Thanks for the consideration,…. Chris
I know you are serious about your shooting and desire to improve.
So I have but one question for you Chris. (Also the rest of you paper punchers!)
Not just picking on Chris today!!!
Why aren’t you using targets on target paper produced by a reputable supplier; like National Target?
The paper is formulated to provide the best conditions for a wad cutter pellet/bullet to punch a perfect hole.
When purchased in quantities the price comes down and shipping cost is minimized.
The cost benefit becomes obvious quickly.
And…when you shoot that pinwheel; they look marvelous framed (compared to graphpaper or printer paper! That’s STATIONARY!) to boot!
The gamo targets are super cheap and Mark nicely. The ones printed in Spanish are half the price of English targets.
Good point and one B.B. has brought up before. Still,….. a lot of B.B.’s groups (and I will assume everyone’s from time to time) still look ragged. Good paper formulation is great.
I am a do it yourselfer in large part. I will change the bull size and color depending on what range I shoot at. I may add cross hairs. My 30-100 is in mature woods that can be pretty dark in Summer with full leaf.
I will re-consider bought targets. Still,…… when going .001″ and having a ragged 10 shot, 1/2″ group to measure,…. just (exactly) where is that precise out when going out to out? I think there is more to it then just to go buy some proper target paper.
i’ll let B.B. cover that. He did a great report on how to read/measure groups in the Airgun Letter days. He also did a more extensive article in the Airgun Revue # (can’t remember; might have been the first one?) but I’ll be interested in his current VUE on the topic.
If you use standard bullseye targets the have circular gauges to give that kind of accuracy. Most of the time there is little complaint about scores.
B.B. covered it twice that I found;
Thank you! Notes made and saved to favorites to read this weekend. I am looking forwards to it.
I noticed B.B. mentioned he may make another one on the subject.
I would have to read the first 2 before I can comment. Rest assured,… if I have more questions,… I will be asking them.
No sure if I missed it, but can this be shot lefty? My Izzy is right hand and I’d like to get my son shooting 10m, but since Izzy isn’t in the US anymore… Also does anyone import them? I’ve tried a few places and they don’t ship to the US.
Yes, there is a left-hand version of this pistol. Pyramyd sells both.