Air Venturi Match pistol: Part 3
by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- Best-laid schemes…
- How to dry-fire the V10
- Test the trigger
- Put everything back together
- The fix
…o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley! The poet, Robert Burns, was right when he said that. I told you that I was going to show you how to lighten the trigger of the Air Venturi V10 Match pistol today, and I am. But in the past this has always been a simple 15-minute job. It should take me maybe 30 minutes with pictures. I had planned to do the accuracy test today, after finishing with the trigger. Nope! Instead I struggled for some time, and in the struggle I learned something valuable that I will now pass on to all of you.
The job I’m going to show you is straightforward. It should be easy for everybody, as long as you don’t stray past where I’m taking you. In Part 2 we left the trigger at between 2 lbs. 2 oz. and 2 lbs. 9 oz. pull. A 10 meter pistol trigger can be as light as 500 grams, which is 17.64 oz. or 1 lb. 1.64 oz. So, where we left the trigger was more than one pound too heavy.
The first thing I did this time before anything else was to carefully measure the trigger again. It was breaking at around 2 lbs.
How to dry-fire the V10
To cock the V10 for dry-firing, raise the top cover of the gun as if to cock it, but it only needs to be raised a little — less than halfway. You will be dry-firing the pistol a lot with this procedure, so best learn now how it’s done.
Then I took the grips off and adjusted the trigger pull weight lighter. Now the trigger was breaking at 10.5 ounces, which is 298 grams — way too light! But I would wait to see what would happen with the lube procedure I was about to do, so I stopped adjusting. I had adjusted the pull with the grips off, so I could see how the adjustment screw works.
The right side is where all the action is. That translucent cover hides the trigger parts. Pay attention to those two arrows that point to two pins. Those pins are the axels of parts in the trigger mechanism. When the cover comes off one side of each pin will be unsupported.
Three Phillips screws hold the translucent cover to the grip frame. Remove them and take the cover off. You can now see all the trigger parts.
You can cock the pistol with the cover off — just take care not to let any trigger parts fall out.
Here the gun is cocked. It may not look like it because of some shadows, but those two parts are now in contact. See that brass pin at the upper right of this picture? That is where the trigger (the grooved metal piece next to the pin) will contact the sear to move it.
We have now seen where the lube needs to be applied. The pins you saw earlier don’t need anything. Keep oil out of the trigger because it just attracts dirt. We want to lube the sear contact, only.
I used moly grease for this job — yes, moly! I know some people feel moly is too slippery for a trigger, and there are triggers that I would recommend not using it on. BSF triggers, for example, are not designed right for moly grease. They become too light. But this trigger has a safe sear engagement and I have been doing this for years to these pistols.
There is the grease on the sear. See how I also applied it to the other part? That was not intended. Use a cotton swab to clean it off. The moly will transfer to the other trigger part when the gun is cocked and fired, so there is no need to lube it now.
Test the trigger
I dry-fired the trigger with the cover still off to see what this lube had done. Remember that it had been breaking at 10.5 oz. before the lube. It now broke at 8.6 oz. (243.8 grams). That’s way too light! So I dialed some weight back into the trigger-pull adjustment screw (the cover is still off the trigger) and tested it again. This time the pull broke at 15.7 oz. (445.1 grams). That’s close enough for me, because the trigger may get heavier when the grips go back on.
Put everything back together
I put the cover back on, then reinstalled both grips. Now I tested the trigger once more. It was 2 lbs. 1 oz.! Whaaat? This is the special thing that I talked about at the beginning. How could putting the grips back on cause the trigger pull to increase by more than a pound? Only one thing I could think of was the adjustment screw could be binding and that might cause it to tip and throw off the other parts it is connected to. So I pulled off the grips to have a look.
Sure enough — that was it! When the grips were made the hole the adjustment screw passes through was drilled too tight and when the grips are snug the screw has sideways pressure on its head.
The fix was quick and simple. I used a sharp pocketknife to ream the extra wood out of both grip panels. I didn’t take off much! Then I installed the grips and tested the pistol again. This time the trigger pull is 1 lb. 1.6 oz or 498.95 grams. I’ll take it! I won’t be competing with this pistol so I’ll never have to go through an official test. If I was going to, I would dial the pull up to 520 grams, just to be sure.
Best of all, each pull of the trigger is now about the same. None of this 2 lbs. 2 oz. to 2 lbs. 9 oz. business. Job done!
This turned out to be a way more detailed report than I anticipated. I was going to show you all the steps of the trigger lube, but I have never had a problem with the adjustment screw binding this way. I’m glad it happened, because it gave us all a chance to learn more about this trigger. Now I can test the accuracy of the V10.