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Education / Training The Webley Hurricane: Part 2

The Webley Hurricane: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Webley Hurricane.

Part 1

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Air Arms Falcons
  • H&N Finale Match Light
  • What is the Oh, oh?
  • Galling
  • Wrong lubrication
  • Change in direction
  • What’s next?

Today I’m going to test my Webley Hurricane’s velocity. Like I said in Part 1, I have never tested the Hurricane in my standard way. This series is an attempt to correct  that. However — I have tested the Hurricane’s velocity before and I recorded the results. I will now show a table of those results that I recorded in August of 2014, so I can do some baseline testing as I start the velocity test.


As you can see from the table, Air Arms Falcon pellets are the fastest and also the most consistent in the Hurricane. If I shoot 10 more today, how will those results compare to the numbers I got six years ago?

Air Arms Falcons

This time 10 Falcons averaged 461 f.p.s., compared to 466 f.p.s. in the table. The spread went from a low of 456 to a high of 466, making a difference of 10 f.p.s. In the table it’s 7 f.p.s. I would say the pistol is performing pretty much as it did 6 years ago.


There is a “however”. I noticed when cocking the pistol that the piston or something seems to be galling as the piston is withdrawn. The cocking effort is shaky and rough, like metal is scraping metal. I don’t like it.

H&N Finale Match Light

The next pellet I tested was the H&N Finale Match Light. This wadcutter wasn’t around in 2014 when I last tested the pistol. I only shot 5 shots because the third time I cocked the Hurricane for this string the HOWEVER became an Oh, oh!

The average velocity was 416 f.p.s. The high was 422 and the low, which happened after the Oh, oh started, was 412 f.p.s. This test ends now.

What is the Oh, oh?

The Oh, oh is what happened during the test of the H&N Finale Match Light pellet. On the third try the cocking went from stiff and jerky to a major issue. I had to use too much force to cock the gun. I didn’t measure it, but 50-60 pounds seems about right. The powerplant feels dry. Obviously something is very wrong with this Hurricane. I can feel galling and it’s getting much worst.

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Galling has several meanings, but they all boil down to two parts rubbing together in an uncomfortable way. If we are talking about skin parts, you have chafing and redness from irritation. For metal parts it means two parts that are engaging (touching) and losing metal from friction. It can be caused by a lack of lubrication, or by using the wrong lubrication, or the parts are not aligned as they are supposed to be. Or it can mean all three.

Wrong lubrication

You can understand a lack of lubrication and a misalignment of parts, but what does using the wrong lubricant look like? A classic example of using the wrong lubrication is when you use silicone chamber oil as a lubricant between two metal parts. Silicone chamber oil is designed to seal very tight spaces, such as the edges of a fast-moving synthetic piston seal when a spring gun fires. It works great for that. But between two metal parts that are rubbing against each other under pressure, silicone chamber oil doesn’t have enough surface tension to do the job. It gets squeezed out of the way and the parts act as though there is no lube at all.

Change in direction

I didn’t anticipate this, but now this report has taken a different turn. I’m going to disassemble the pistol and discover what is wrong so I can correct it. Galling should leave evidence in the form of shiny places wherever metal has been removed. Find them and then look for the part(s ) that have rubbed them shiny and lube both parts with a good lube.

Thankfully reader Derrick told us about a good blog on Hurricane disassembly on Another Airgun Blog. He pointed it out to us in the comments for Part 1. And, there is also a downloadable Webley Tempest manual with full disassembly instructions on the Pyramyd AIR website. I printed it out. And I will do my part to show you how the Hurricane gets stripped.

There is another blog there about smoothing the trigger. My trigger is smooth and reasonably light, but as long as I’m in there I will look at it.

Now, a Hurricane is not built like the Webley pistols of old. My straight grip Senior from the 1930s was put together in a classic and time-honored fashion with screws and threaded parts, and I showed you a trick or two for disassembly when I took it apart. Well, this Hurricane is put together with lots of roll pins (hisssss) and the parts are named strange things by Webley. For example, in the Tempest manual the plastic grip panels that need to be removed are called Stocksides????? That’s a name a British Millennial Valley Girl would have made up! Old BB is a-gonna straighten all that out for you as he does this.

What’s next?

I have ordered a set of roll-pin punches that I have needed for decades. If I’m doing this I’m going to do it right! As far as the lubes go, I’ll have to wait to see the condition of the insides of the gun, but moly paste is on my mind right now. And, I have a fresh tube of White Lithium grease that you guys made me buy, so the spring will get lubed, as well. I say you made me buy it but the truth is the last time I popped the lid off my vintage 1966 can of M1 Garand Special Purpose Grease, the “white” grease inside had turned brown, with oil separating out. Don’t gotta tell me twice!

I’m sorry for a failed test today, but I think we are all going to learn a lot more from this than if the pistol had functioned normally. So you see, Yogi, sometimes even mundane things like retesting the velocity can be exciting!

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

83 thoughts on “The Webley Hurricane: Part 2”

  1. It sounds like you are about to take a crash course in The Queen’s English.

    Not what we speak on this side of the pond.
    A rather weighty subject.



  2. B.B.,

    I was looking for an article on the web regarding grease breaking down and I can hardly find any. Since your grease is as old as I am do suppose you would need a fresher stock of grease to lubricate this Webley. Cursory look at Derrick’s instructions with the tiny springs just waiting to fly out makes me believe this should be disassembled inside a plastic bag.


  3. BB.

    “hisssss” indeed! Having to support everything (just right) and worry about breaking or bending something can be a real recipe for stress. It is hard to believe that method would ever be a more efficient way to assemble something.

    On lube, I had a very small micro needle bottle that I put some Ballistol in several years ago. It had separated into 3 layers. A look at (in) the can revealed clear, but light amber color. I thought it was clear. At any rate, what was in that little bottle did separate.

    Looking forwards to the tear down. That is a bit odd for it to become that severe, so quickly. I suppose that is good support for shooting everything in the stable at least once or twice a year even if it is one or two pellets.


  4. BB,

    As you may recall, I am well familiar with galling. My BSA had grooves. I had to sand the end of the compression chamber and piston. Fortunately it was not the compression end.

    I know this is not what you wanted to do, but I for one will enjoy seeing the inside of the Hurricane. I was glad you had not put the new ring seal on the Service MK II. That meant a trip inside.

    By the way, the Senior was at “the range” some Saturday, as was the MK II. 🙂

    Another question. Are you going to button the piston?

  5. BB ,

    Webley never used grease (UK) . They used a thick oil that was between gear oil and honey in consistency. You could always put a couple of drops of gear oil on the piston bearing surface and the gun will probably be OK. Discretion is the better part of valor in this case as disassembly is not easy on this model . I have told numerous customers to do this and it does work well . The teardown will be interesting though , buy the roll pin set from Brownells it is top notch or get some Starrett roll punches at Mc Master or Grainger.

    Gene Salvino

    • Gene,

      Beside what you, B.B. and others have already discussed most of the galling i have encountered is when the two surfaces are too similar in material surface properties that one can not function as a Bearing (in the absence of an actual Bearing or Button) for the other surface to slide on/in.

      I have used a few punches by Starrett but always return to Mayhew. I’m biased no doubt, but the Mayhew Pilot Punches seem to last the longest when driving roll pins.


  6. B.B.,

    I have a feeling this might end up being another excellent exchange on the subject of different lubrications, what with all of the mechanics, machinists and machinist-types here. Chris USA’s comment above about noticing Ballistol separating got me thinking about my unusual experience with the stuff.

    I sprayed (from a Ballistol pump bottle) a lot on a large pocket knife blade that had mild corrosion on it. I let it sit for a few days, and then I hoped to remove some rust, wipe it clean and leave a sheen of the Ballistol behind as a protectant. Well, the rust didn’t really do anything, providing no hint that my plan would work. But the thing I thought strange was the Ballistol had gelled. I wiped the blade down and sprayed more Ballistol on it and left it for a couple more days, and viola! again the stuff had gelled. And by the way, the Ballistol seems to have had no effect at all on the rust.

    Any thoughts? Is this normal?


    • Michael,

      It isn’t my experience. I’ve never seen it gell, but maybe I haven’t left enough on for long enough. I do know that Mac had three gun safes under water from a flood on Maryland’s eastern shore and a week later all the guns inside were rust free from their Ballistol wipedown before the flood.


      • Looking at the Ballistol.de site they make it quite clear that:

        “BALLISTOL contains a harmless combination of anti-oxidants and medical oils so that it is not susceptible to aging and does not resinify for years.”

        But, reading the leaflet that came with a 50ml bottle it does make the point:

        “A thick layer of Ballistol will – after a while – turn into white vaseline like film thus protecting the gun against corrosion … This protective layer has got nothing to do with resinification!”

        One thing I’ve never done before using it is shake the bottle – should I?


        P.S. I wonder if Webley’s use of the term stocksides is inspired by the official names of the parts on their W-G revolvers – seen here for example:


        • Iain,

          The gel is not like Vaseline/petroleum jelly. It’s more like coagulated fat on a leg of lamb, but not white. It’s clear. Takes a day or two to form. I have only shaken Ballistol once or so before using it. I don’t think that is a factor. It’s in my basement, which is about 50 percent humidity and usually around 68 degrees Fahrenheit, roughly 10 feet above sea level and I don’t have a method of measuring barometric pressure (in case shootski is interested :^).


          • Michael,

            I have never used a propellent driven can of Ballistol. And, never experienced what you report has happened. Did you perchance get a knockoff? I have used it all my life since i was introduced to it by my father sometime in the mid 1950s. I have always used it with a small bore pipette or other more controlled applicator. When I clean the soot off the glass on my fireplace glass screens or wood stove window(s) i do, however, use a cotton ball.


            • shootski,

              I am using Ballistol packaged in a medium sized bottle with a trigger pump mechanism. That is a good question about whether or not it is a knockoff. I don’t believe it is, but I guess one can never know for certain. I bought it in person at a local big box outfitter called Gander Mountain when they went out of business a few years ago. It looks and smells (anise seed oil) just like the stuff I bought in a much smaller bottle from Pyramyd AIR years ago.


              • Michael,

                On Ballistol.de: https://ballistol.de/produkte/mensch/ballistol-universaloel/4/ballistol-pumpsprueher?c=6
                They have listed a 650ml pump sprayer that is sold EMPTY. All of the Ballistol products are in newly labeled containers.
                Who knows what black licorice smell liquid you may have gotten?
                I am always suspect of deals that are too good to be true and try to buy from retailers that I know or at least can find an actual persons name(s) of on their web site, adds, or company stationary.

                Old School? You Bet!


                • shootski,

                  Like I wrote, I think whether it’s counterfeit or not is a good question to which I don’t know the answer, but I bought it new, sealed, on a bricks-and-mortar store shelf, not online. I bought it at least three years ago. Did Ballistol sell it in those 650ml pump bottles then?

                  Gander Mountain has 115 stores (I had to look all this up) and is an authorized dealer for Remington, Ruger, Smith & Wesson, Glock, Browning, SIG Sauer, Ballistol, Birchwood Casey, Hoppes, KleenBore , Lyman, Otis and many other well-known brands.

                  The store I bought it from had just started to sell off their stock as they were going to close. All their air gun stuff had been moved to another store, but I remember dozens of people there looking to buy firearms that might have been marked down.

                  They had a lot of excellent camping products and outdoor wear.


        • Iain,

          Good to read that. The term stocksides for grips briefly reminded me of a certain American politician calling a basketball hoop a “basketball ring.” I could accept “scales” without smirking, too.


          • Michael,

            I use Ballistol from their 50ml glass bottles and have never felt the need to shake it first – to mix it after it had separated out, that is. It was the mention of it doing that, in a pen oiler, that made me wonder.


        • Iain,

          Nothing is lost in translation as I read it in both original language and English; unlike so many translations from a Chinese (variant) to English or worse still to German.


      • B.B.
        I read a similar story regarding Ballistol. A guy in New Orleans had his gun collection in his basement when hurricane Katrina hit. His basement and all of his guns were under water. He had used Ballistol to wipe down his guns and when they were later retrieved from the flooded basement, the guns were all rust free. They only required disassembly and a thorough cleaning. That story made a believer out of me, as have many other testimonials regarding the use of Ballistol. I had never heard of this product before getting into airguns.

  7. “I’m sorry for a failed test today, but I think we are all going to learn a lot more from this than if the pistol had functioned normally.”

    I’ll take issue with idea of a failed test. As Mr. Rogers said, “Sometimes we are just where we are supposed to be.” I really don’t deal well with frustration. I’ve been known to do or say stupid things, throw things, even break things. I do learn from the things that go “wrong” and often the outcome is better would have been had things gone smoothly. Had this blog/test gone as planned, I would not have remembered it in a week or two. But now, I get to see the internals of the Webley! As well, a guided tour by a master! And observe how to behave as a functioning adult. 🙂 All good, thanks B.B.


  8. BB

    This promises to be a vintage report series. Whether your plastic bag turns out to be one of Edith’s extra white sheets or not will be fun to see. A good magnet is in your plan no doubt for chasing down itty bitty springs in the adjoining room. Like Michael, I look forward to an update on lubricants. Is Ballistol still used to lube NATO machine guns and what do others use? Some readers here also have expertise in lubricants and will surely weigh in.


  9. On the roll pin punches,as the poster said above get a good set and supporting the part that the pin is in is the biggest issue. I hate roll pins! The MSP Crosman guns with them as pump arm pivots are the worst. I press those out with a arbor press and suitable fixtures to prevent damage to the tube. With the recent purchase of a Dragon Fly pumper from PA, I was pleasently suprised to see they didn’t use a roll pin and the gun disassembles easily for service. Crosman had it right with their old 101and 102 . Should have stuck with that idea. As was also mentioned , try the oil in the Webley first , they interesting to tear down. Good luck.

      • Tom, Does your Hurricane have an adjustable trigger? My Tempest does, but you have to be careful not to try to make it too light, as it will not cock if you do. Regards, Robert

        • Robert,

          Yes, my trigger does adjust. But the cocking isn’t a result of the trigger, I don’t think. It got worse all by itself without the trigger changing. Also, my trigger is set very nice. I’m going to take the gun apart to see what’s what.


    • Robert,
      Thank you for mentioning the Dragon Fly! That reminded me of what B.B. said about the Butterfly:
      “The Butterfly is the Air Venturi Dragonfly with a pump-assist built in.”
      in his report here: /blog/2020/01/2020-shot-show-day-two/
      I said I had called Air Venturi to ask about the availability of the Butterfly, and that I would post their answer.
      Sadly, I forgot. Corey from Air Venturi did get back to me the next day, and told me that the manufacturer was expecting the production rifles to be available in the Summer or Fall (he said look more towards Fall). I also asked if he had personal experience with the Butterfly, and what his “take” was on it. He said it feels like a 30 to 40 percent reduction in pumping effort; he said, for real, it is a significant reduction. I hope they retain the easy-to-disassemble aspect of the Dragon Fly on the new Butterfly! Thanks again.
      Take care,

      • Dave , I found that after lubrication and some break in, my new Dragon fly wasn’t much harder to pump than some of my other MSP. I also found that it would make as much power as my .22 Benji 342 at six pumps, with only four pumps and the 342 is tuned up. Thanks for the info on the Butterfly. will watch for that one. As an aside , my most powerful MSP has been a Rochester MSP . I can pump it to 20 times with no air remaining. At 15 pumps it will crony an average of 720 fps with the .22 JSB Exacts, and it is not hard to pump. It will do about 620 fps at 10 pumps. The Dragonfly will go thru a 3/4″ pine board with four pumps at 20 feet . I know wood is not a reccomended medium to test power but it is still a good indication of what a gun will do if you intend to shoot at live game. I test my muzle loading shotgun loads by shooting at a heavy tin can at 25 yards. If the pellets perforate both sides of the can they will be effective as to penetration on game. Regards, Robert

        • Thank you, Robert for all the info on multi-pumps. I’m older and weaker now; in my younger days, pumping my .20 caliber Sheridan was no big feat (although I generally used 6 pumps most of the time); but now I only use it at 2 or 3 pumps. That’s why I was set to get the Dragon fly, but now I am waiting to see the reports on the Butterfly when it comes out. But if it gets delayed, now I know the Dragon fly is a good catch.
          I hate to ask a dumb question, but what is a “Rochester MSP”? And it’s funny that you mentioned the 3/4″ pine board testing. Back in my high school days, that was “the test.” If your air rifle could shoot all the way through a 3/4″ pine board, then it was “powerful” (no one had chronographs back then…except the airgun manufacturers, hahaha!) =>
          Thanks again,
          take care,
          P.S. I spelled his name wrong above; it’s not “Corey,” it is “Cory” at Air Venturi; and he’s a really cool guy. =>

  10. B.B.,
    I’m really sorry about the galling; but as someone who owns a Tempest (and may have to work on it someday), I look forward to the teardown and reassembly of this pistol. As you always do, please be sure to include lots of pictures for folk like me, who can be clueless and challenged at times. Thank you! =>
    Take care & God bless,

  11. BB,

    While I feel a little bit sorry for you having to take apart an airgun assembled with roll pins, I am excited about seeing the inner workings of this Webley.

    I had similar experiences with cheap firearms in the past and with the help of a couple of homemade jigs (a board with nails in the position of the pins comes to mind) and a good assortment of punches and colorful words I was able to put them back together. A good feeling at the end.

    Good luck!

  12. Michael ,

    This happens with the aerosol stuff . No affect on lubricity . It sounds like the rust on your knife is pitting not spotting . Ballistol works excellent on surface rust ( spotting ) nothing will remove pitting but a mild acid or abrasives . My experience with Ballistol goes back many years when my friend was a HK ( Heckler Koch ) armorer for His departments MP5 s . HK only recommended Ballistol or Break Free . Ballistol will consistently outperform Break Free or any of the CLP oils on the market. Remember C.L.P that is made to do 3 things,it WON’T do any well it has too much detergency and washes off the lube . Ballistol is just a mineral based oil , it’s value is that it will not resinify and gum things up . Ballistol is not a gimmick it performs as advertised . About the only weapon I would say not to use it on is a AR15 due to excessive heat in the action , I would recommend a synthetic oil or grease . I have used Ballistol on every type of firearm action and Most Airguns .

    Gene Salvino

    • What a great response.

      We have to keep in mind that bluing on a gun is rust. Blooming or light rust on top of bluing can be removed a variety of ways but if you get to aggressive you risk removal of the bluing itself (think petroleum jelly).

      Of course, the best method for rust on bluing is PREVENTION. Sweat, humidity, water, blood, etc. are the enemies of bluing. When you’re done shooting/hunting wipe the gun down with a dry rag. If the gun is cold and you bring it inside wait for the gun to warm up to room temperature before wiping it dry to address potential condensation. Once the gun is dry apply a thin coat of oil. I keep a rag that is impregnated with ballistol in a zip lock bag for this task.

      For surface rust on a gun here is my regiment:

      1-For LIGHT RUST wipe with hoppes or ballistol using a soft cloth. Dry with a soft cloth and apply a thin coat of oil.

      2-For MEDIUM RUST use flitz. Rub lightly with the grain of the bluing using a soft cloth. Remove the excess flitz using hoppes or ballistol. Dry with a soft cloth and apply a thin coat of oil.

      3-For HEAVY RUST use a lubricant like ballistol and 0000 steel or bronze wool and lightly scrub the metal with the grain of bluing. Wipe with a soft cloth until the rust no longer appears on your cloth then apply a thin coat of oil.

      4-For HEAVY RUST THAT HAS CAUSED PITTING send the gun to a professional to be reblued, cold blue it yourself (separate subject) or stabilize the rust using one of the above methods and live with it.

      For other items that are heavily rusted, like knives, soak them in a bath of white vinegar (a mild acid that Gene Salvino refers to above) and iodized salt solution overnight. This will remove rust and minimize the scrubbing to remove the rest of the rust. Stabilize the remaining acid/salt solution that remains on the item by submerging it in a solution of water and baking soda. Dry and then apply a thin coat of oil.

      I’m not a fan of any C.L.P. product including Break Free. It doesn’t do anything great but seems to have been adopted as a panacea for lazy gun owners and/or an attempt by gun owners and manufacturers to “idiot proof” gun maintenance. For crying out loud even Les Baer recommends C.L.P. Give me a break. Been around guns too long to buy into this short cut.

      I’m a fan of ballistol for short term protectant of a gun and some lubrication applications. Using it on your metal and wood is easy and effective.

    • Gene,

      Thanks for the info! One of the things I like about Ballistol is that the smell is not a problem. So many other things stink to the point one needs to be outdoors. With Ballistol working in my basement or garage is fine, although if I were going to work for an extended period of time, I would open a couple windows and put a fan in one of them.


  13. Chris USA ,

    Chris , was another lubricant used in this bottle ? It sounds like it has mixed with other lubricants . I have been using Ballistol for over 20 years and have never had any varnish up or separate . Be careful when using oilers .You should always rinse it out with brake cleaner then air it out before adding any other kind of oil . I started using it in 1995 and was buying it from Dicks Gun Room in Cuyahoga Falls , Oh . I got Pyramyd AIR selling it and it has been a big hit here and at My Friends Gun shop in Westlake , OH . sells it also . People that use it for the first time are amazed at how well it clings to the bluing and stays put to protect surfaces . The bit of gelling is just the newer compound it has no effect on lubricity or film integrity.

    Gene Salvino

    • Gene,

      Thanks for the reply. It was a new bottle, soft side plastic with a metal needle. It could have reacted with the plastic?, or not. It has a little silicone cap, so I do not think air exposure was an issue. Maybe 1/4-1/2 oz. I did not analyze the whole matter. I just got rid of it and cleaned and saved the bottle. I have not poured any out of the can yet either. I (just) shined a flashlight in the can and it looked to be a light amber color, clear, all the way to the bottom. I am happy with the product and generally just use it for wipe down.


  14. Chris USA ,

    This gelling occurs if dousing a object . When it is wiped on or excess wiped off the surface it will not gel , again I have only seen this with the aerosol , probably because they can no longer use better CFC propellants . They use a Butane type propellant .

    Gene Salvino

    • Gene,

      That’s it! Mystery solved. I did drench the blade with it in a small glass jar, letting the excess drip to the bottom. My philosophy, I’m afraid, has always been if a little is good, then a lot is best.


  15. Kevin ,

    CLP came out of a Cold-War era requirement to get rid of bore cleaner and LSA so the government could have one product for everything . I definitely use the 0000 steel wool and Ballistol all the time . There is a Ballistol soaked piece of steel wool on my bench at all times . You would not believe the neglected and beat up guns I repair . Look up a product called Cherry Balmz , He has a great article about how CLP came about .

    Gene Salvino

    • Gene,

      I’m familiar with Cherry Balmz. I like their Rimfire Remedy. The rest of their products that I’ve used not so much. I’ll look for the article about CLP. Thanks


  16. Chris USA ,

    Chris I see allot of people who cross contaminate stuff . That is strange it did that , glad to hear the product is good in the can ! You should see what WD -40 does to the inside of a revolver after a few years , it glues everything together . If I was a Racketeer I would sell WD 40 to people !! Definitely allot of repair work down the road .

    • Gene,

      The cross contamination issue is why i buy the pipettes.
      You use them once and then recycling takes them if you choose the right brands. Of course now that they have found a bug that loves to feed on plastic in some garbage dump i’m happier. I wasn’t surprised though, the coal spills along railroad tracks have a bug that loves that coal and our highways don’t have berms of rubber bits everywhere because a variety of the coal eating bug eats that!


      • Shootski,

        That is good that there is a “bug” that eats plastic. I never heard about the rubber eating type though. Should I be worried about the tires on my car? 😉 Rubber recycling seems like it would be a real opportunity for road pavement, etc..

        On related matters,…. I was just a wee lad in a small town,… back in the day. I went to the local (read 1) hardware store and right there besides the cash register was a plastic fence post. Besides that was a box of framing nails and a 20 oz. hammer. As best I recall (read: not well),… it had a shiny black shell about 1/4″ thick and in the center was multicolored bits of a plastic. That stuff could last forever,.. I thought,… or not. Not being so forwards thinking way back then,… all I wanted to do was pound a 16 penny nail full on flush. Having pounded a framing nail or two prior,… I was amazed at the comparison to wood.

        Never seen them since. Early 70’s I would guess. I suppose the idea never caught on,.. or the UV rays rotted them quicker than wood?

        I do pretty darn well on recycling,… proud to say.


        • Chris USA,

          Should I be worried about the tires on my car?
          Not unless your tires hangout along the side of heavily traveled roads and Interstates. It is a fine dust of Carbon that gets them excited! The apparently consume crazy amounts of that stuff or else we would be needing to plow it off of roads.
          I hope the scientific community figures out how to make the new plastic bugs in more than just the original spot they found them and the Lab!

          I have collected far to much plastic trash while kayaking that people have allowed to get into our waterways, lakes, and oceans.



        • Wee lad . . . now you have that movie line in my head, “I kin picture that huge head of his on that wee little pilla, cryin’ his eyes out!” Or something like that.


    • Gene,
      The only thing I have found WD-40 is good for is to remove tar from the rocker panels on a vehicle. I learned that it was a very poor rust preventive when I used it on my table saw’s cast iron table. The saw was in my basement which was not overly damp or humid. Within a few weeks I observed the saw’s table was covered with surface rust. I cleaned the table with steel wool and sprayed it with an industrial spray corrosion inhibitor. The table does not rust, even after months of non-use. WD-40 is also a very poor lubricant. When first applied, it appears to lube well but after a short time it turns gummy and the lubricity is completely gone. I used to use it on squeaky hinges but the hinges would start squeaking again in a short time. Spray silicone is actually a better lubricant. WD-40 is pretty much useless in my opinion.

      • Geo,

        The first thing that comes to mind is,…. how do I use these pretty much raw material(s) and hype it with a well funded advertising campaign into becoming the next miracle lubricant?

        This blog did make me aware of it and lack of actual usefulness. Personal use has never yielded any miraculous results and in hindsight,.. any that did happen,.. never did last very long.

        I do remember using it to get road tar off of Dad’s car. It did work real good for that.


      • Geo,

        Two thing’s I’ve found that WD-40 is good for:

        1-Used with steel wool it’s good at removing rust from aluminum wheels. Easier and cheaper than products like Mothers Mag.

        2-Drying out the inside of a water saturated distributor cap (are you old enough to remember those?). After all WD is short for Water Displacement.

        • Kevin,
          Are you sure that the WD-40 has that much effect on removing the rust? My guess is that the steel wool is removing the rust and the WD-40 is just acting as a lubricant. Would not plain soap and water with steel wool accomplish the same thing?
          Yes, my dad owned an auto repair shop in the 50s and 60s so I grew up learning how to repair cars. I do remember that displacing moisture on the distributor cap and spark plug wires was one of the uses of WD-40. I can’t remember ever having used it for that purpose though.
          Stay well and keep the faith my friend.

          • Geo,

            Doubt that WD-40 is helping much to dissolve the rust but more, as you say, acting as a lubricant for the steel wool. All I know for sure is that it works.


        • Michael,
          No, I don’t think so. Gorilla glue needs the surfaces to be wet with water for it to work. I have some Gorilla glue but have not had much luck with it. Lock-tite Super Glue for small items and JB Weld for other things works very well. I have used an epoxy glue for plastics with good results gluing plastic parts on cars. Project Farm has some interesting reviews of construction adhesives too.
          The Gorilla tape is great stuff and works better than plain duct tape, especially outside in the weather.

  17. Kevin ,

    Brings back memories , when I was a little kid my dad always kept some tools , spare belts ( remember those !!) and a can of WD 40 . I remember my Dad showing me how to remove the distributor cap and spray inside and wipe out to get a car running !! I think it was my Mothers 1976 Impala station wagon , that thing was huge my little Sister and I used to sleep and hang out in the back on long trips , no seat belts and we survived .

        • Kevin,

          I love the smell of ether in the morning. It brings back good memories of what would otherwise have been miserable weekday mornings. This was usually on mornings when it was 10 below or more. We had a battery heater plate in one car and a dipstick heater in the other, but some mornings the oil must have been too thick anyway in the car with just the battery heater. My dad came from Wisconsin where every car had an electric cord coming out of the grill and wrapped around the front bumper.

          My dad would have me get in the driver’s seat with my hand on the ignition. He’d take the air cleaner filter out, squirt ether vaper “into the breech,” and give me the go-ahead. A wonderful low volume “boom” and instant ignition. When I got a little older my dad showed me how to do it and would get in the driver’s seat and let me put the fire in the hole.

          My dad also showed me ow to loosen recalcitrant lug nuts when penetrating oil wasn’t enough. He’d get the lug wrench on nice and tight, slide a long pipe, ten or more feet, over the pipe, and he and I would slowly lift the pipe while he would say (always), “Give me a long enough lever, and I can lift the world.” We stopped doing that after the time we twisted a lug off.

          Very fond memories.


          • Michael,
            I can remember my dad using “starting fluid” which may have been ether with a propellant. He was an auto mechanic so he knew what he was doing. But, you had to be careful with that stuff because if you used too much you could blow the engine. Don’t exactly remember which parts broke, but I think the pistons. Yup, remember going on service calls with my dad when people called because their cars wouldn’t start in the winter.

  18. Shootski ,

    Thanks for tip on Mayhew punches . The only time I have dealt with roll pins is Sig Sauer P220 series , AR bolt stop pin and some in Berettas . They are not used too much in airguns , most common are Benjamin and Crosman pumpers . Of course Webleys . Pipettes are a good idea , a older Gunsmith that I used to shoot with used a sewing needle dipped into the oil as a oiler . He primarily worked on revolvers I am glad I got to see some some Old style Police Positives and Detective specials with the V spring actions. Hopefully Colt didn’t layoff all the people that can still work on the old Pythons .

    • Gene,

      Sewing needles are used by a lot of watchmakers. The eye of sewing needle works well as a reservoir with the surface tension. I also use them for dry lubricant in guitar nut slots.


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