Umarex ReadyAir portable compressor: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

ReadyAir
Umarex ReadyAir portable compressor
.

Part 1

This report covers:

  • Setting up the compressor
  • Setting the pressures
  • Test plug
  • Not set and forget
  • The tests
  • Test One — BSA R10
  • Bleed valve
  • Test two — AirForce tank
  • Runtime
  • Test 3 — AirForce tank outdoors
  • Summary

Today we look at how the Umarex ReadyAir portable compressor operates. I’ve devised three tests that should demonstrate the operation quite well. Let’s go.

Setting up the compressor

To get the compressor ready for the first two tests I attached the 110 volt household power cord and the flexible air hose that comes with a female Foster fitting on the end. If only all airgun manufacturers would use the male Foster fitting for all their guns the world would be abetter place!

The other end of the hose that attaches to the compressor is a properly sealed 1/8 BSP threaded adapter that has a rubber seal inside. I tightened it hand tight for all the tests and it held air perfectly.

Setting the pressures

The compressor comes with the control panel set to run in English, the pressure reading in PSI and temperature reading in Fahrenheit. The languages can be changed to French and Spanish with the push of a button. Pressure can read in bar and temperature in Celsius if you prefer.

Your first task after plugging in the compressor is to set the desired fill pressure. When the compressor gets to that pressure it will stop pumping, though if the cooling fan has come on it will continue running. You need to leave it running until the temperature drops below 87 degrees F. The fan never switches off until you push the off button.

Test plug

In the maintenance video that we watched in Part One, Rick Eutsler wondered whether there would be a test plug for the air hose in the compressors that are shipped to the public. There is one in the test compressor. It came to me plugged into the Foster fitting on the hose.

ReadyAir test plug
The ReadyAir does come with a test plug to check out the system before pumping an airgun.

Not set and forget

I told you in Part One that the ReadyAir is not a set-and-forget compressor, but I’m telling you again. However, because it operates so quickly, that really won’t be a problem for you. I had this one running in my office and could hear when it shut off. I kept an eye on the display, but that was more because I was curious than for any other reason. It’s a good thing I have to return this one to Umarex USA because if it was around my place I would never get to use my big Air Venturi compressor or my carbon fiber tanks.

The tests

The first two tests are indoors, using house current, which in the U.S. is 60 Hz 110 volt current. I’m plugged into a 15 amp outlet. Before the first test I checked the compressor with the test plug installed in the end of the air hose. The plug seals the air hose, allowing pressure to build quickly. It’s a simple test that the whole system is running as it should. I set the test pressure at 4500 psi and started the compressor. It read 72 degrees when it started, with the house temp reading 69 degrees. It got to 4500 psi and shut off in under a minute and the temperature increased to 75 degrees.

Test One — BSA R10

My BSA R10 Mark II has a 200cc reservoir. That’s 12.2 cubic inches. The reservoir gauge read 110 bar/1595 psi when I started the test and the compressor was set to stop at 232 bar/3365 psi. When it is plugged into the wall the compressor’s display lights up. That’s when you make any adjustments and set the fill or cutoff pressure.

ReadyAir R10https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Umarex_ReadyAir_Portable_Compressor/9732
The BSA R10 was the first to be filled.

When you are ready, push the start button and the compressor begins to pump. Don’t forget to close the bleed valve before starting the compressor.

Bleed valve

I love the handle on the ReadyAir bleed valve. It’s large and grippy and was obviously made by someone who understands what we are doing when we bleed the line.

ReadyAir bleed valve
The brass bleed valve (arrow) is closed when the compressor is pumping. The large grippy handle makes bleeding very easy.

On a carpeted floor the compressor jiggles back and forth about a quarter inch each way with the rhythm of the pump. 

The compressor’s starting temperature was 82 degrees F. When the pump stopped pumping at 3365 psi after 4 minutes, the temperature read 120 degrees F. The fan cooled the pump back down to 87 degrees F in another 5 minutes and then I shut it off.

That’s how it went. The ReadyAir was efficient and quick to fill the BSA. Like I already said, if I owned a little compressor like this one I doubt my big compressor would get much of a workout.

Test two — AirForce tank

Now we’re going to put the ReadyAir to a real test. I took an empty 495cc/30.21 cubic inch reservoir from an AirForce Escape and attached it to the compressor. I set the fill to 3,000 psi and started her up. This time I noticed something that I hadn’t seen with the smaller BSA reservoir that was 2/3 full. The pressure in the tank would rise and then sink back down by several psi. It did that throughout the entire fill.

The compressor started at 84 degrees when the air tank was empty and 17 minutes later when it stopped pumping at 3,000 psi, the temperature was 140 degrees F. I was so faithful to time the fill with my watch, but this time when I disconnected the air tank I noticed that the display on the compressor was also timing the fill. It said the same 17 minutes I had just recorded.

Runtime

The manual has an explanation of everything on the display and now that I know what to look for I see a runtime indicator. I didn’t see it before, nor was I aware it was there. Not only does it tell you what the compressor has just done, if you keep a logbook for your compressor it gives you the amount of time to enter, so you’ll know when those 20 hours are up and the maintenance cycle (piston rebuild and charcoal filter replacement) is required.

ReadyAir runtime
The runtime is the yellow numbers in minutes to the left of the max fill pressure.

So, 17 minutes is a longer time. But I went from zero psi and you won’t do that very often. You’ll go from 2000 psi and fill to 3000 in a few minutes.

Test 3 — AirForce tank outdoors

Test three is a test using the 12-volt cables attached to a car battery. I first attached the battery cables to the compressor and then clamped them to my truck battery. The same AirForce tank was used and I had emptied it all the way before this test. The battery cables are very long and the pump can sit on the ground. The manual advises that you leave the vehicle running while the compressor is running.

ReadyAir truck
The battery cables are long enough that the compressor can sit on the ground.

Obviously this test was outside, and it was in 50 degree F weather. Umarex says to operate it in the shade if possible, to keep it cooler. The pump never got above 105 degrees F in the 18 minutes that it took to fill the tank and shut down. The temperature of the compressor dropped below 84 degrees within five minutes after the pump stopped but the fan kept running. I then pressed the on/off button and the pump started as the entire compressor shut off. It’s a strange sensation, but the pump stops right away when the off button is released.

This was a second test of filling from empty. Normally a tank this size will take 6-8 minutes to top off becauise you will never go below 2,000 psi.

Summary

What more can I tell you? The ReadyAir runs just like it should and the fill times are relatively brief. The instructions are straightforward and everything you need comes with the compressor.

I think the ReadyAir gives us a reliable and supported air compressor at an affordable price for many more airgunners.

97 thoughts on “Umarex ReadyAir portable compressor: Part 2

  1. BB,

    Nice job on the 3 test you designed. This looks like a real winner among the offerings that are currently on the market.

    The only reservation I would have is the 20 hour rebuild. The Shoebox does 80-90 hours with one reader commenting that his went 140 hours and still did not need it. This is small. It runs on AC and DC and does the job quickly. What more can you want? I would consider it if replacing the Shoebox.

    Chris


  2. BB,

    It is nice, but I do not see me replacing my AV compressor and CF tank in the near future. If I did not have these, I would indeed take a serious look at this.

    I used a hand pump until I went to a big bore. Those honkers use a lot of air. That much pumping will kill you. This is a good alternative for someone who does not want to invest in an air supply that will fill SCBA tanks.

    Just to remind you folks out there about this and other small compressors: DO NOT TRY TO FILL LARGE TANKS SUCH AS SCBA WITH THESE! They were not designed to do this task. I know someone who used a Shoebox to do just that. Actually, he had two of them. The last time I saw them, they were both non functioning.


    • RR,

      I did my Guppy tank from empty when I first got it. I only ran the Shoebox for 20 minutes at a time and was in no rush. It worked. I think a compressor like this would do it fine too,… just run it 10 minutes at a time or so. Once filled, topping a Guppy tank should be no issue.

      I wish there had been more options when I got the Shoebox. Back then, Shoebox was pretty much it on small compressors. I am happy to see how far small pumps and PCP’s have come in just a few short years.

      Chris


    • RR,

      Yes, I don’t think the ReadyAir is for a big bore rifle as they use the air faster than it can be supplied. I almost wrote that in the report, but I figured that anyone who owns a big bore and reads the results of my tests will get it.

      BB


      • BB,

        I guess it would be dependent on the shooter. The Texan with carbon fiber tank is good for about five shots. Now, if you are trying to lay down suppressive fire, this just ain’t gonna do it. If you do not mind taking a little break every few shots, it should do it.

        I do like my compressor rig and big tank though.


      • B.B.,

        “…I don’t think the ReadyAir is for a big bore rifle as they use the air faster than it can be supplied.” I concur with your position.
        I can however think of one possible exception; IF you are hunting with Big Bore Airguns from an established base camp. You would need a source of electricity (generator/battery/solar) and consider the weight/bulk of the compressor + power source for pack-in/out compared to HPA cylinder(s).

        shootski


        • Shootski
          Remember it works on 12 volt too.

          That’s why I have a back up compressor that can run on 12 volt. It can still be used in a survival condition. You know solar panels and such.

          You still got to fill the bottle some way if there is no electric.


          • Gunfun1,

            Yup!

            ” You know solar panels and such.”

            Don’t forget low head water turbine-generator, wind, and plain old muscle cranked Magneto. I have been building a collection of alternate field servicible means of generating electricity if for no other reason than having examples to reverse engineer if….

            shootski

            shootski


    • RR,

      I agree that the current batch is small compressors are not for filling tanks, but the Shoebox is the exception to that. Many of us have been doing this for years with no issues. Those failures you know if just be due to something else, most likely failures to lube them when needed.

      I have filled 66 cubic foot tanks from empty with my shoe box on multiple occasions, stopping only to add lube to the compressor. Now with the auto lube installed I don’t even stop for that.


      • Alan, Chris and the rest of the Shoebox Gang.

        LOL! OKOKOK! I get it. Quite a few have used these for filling tanks. Most of those have been modified, like auto oilers, extra intake filtration, etc. You had better not be in a hurry though.

        My compressor took one hour to fill my 100 cubic foot CF tank from 0 to 4500 PSI. It would probably take that poor Shoebox a week (exaggeration).

        Chris, as far as your Guppy tank is concerned, I have seen bigger tanks on air rifles. 😉


        • I will admit that the Shoebox is slow. But it is a rock solid, steady pump. It very much is a “set it and forget” it compressor on most fills, so “slow” really does not matter to most of us.

          Unless you are shooting big bore guns, I have to say that if the Shoebox is too slow for you, then I am truly jealous of your situation – it can only mean that you are so busy shooting and using your air tanks that you can’t afford to take the time to stop and wait for a Shoebox to do the work. I don’t have that – I have other responsibilities, like mowing the lawn and such, and I often do run my Shoebox while I do that. Like I said, set it and forget it. BTW, it also works well if you ever take a break from shooting to watch some sports on TV too . . . . 😉

          For my shooting, I find about 40 minutes of run time a week keeps my Guppy topped off, and that is probably about 300 shots from various guns. Some weeks are higher or lower. And I have never seen an airgun with a tank that big on it! Peace.

          Alan


  3. BB,

    Would have been nice it the compressor was a “fill and forget” type where you could add a small reservoir to fill the gun from and have the compressor top-off the reservoir while the owner was busy shooting.

    That would make recharging the PCP a 30 second operation instead of having to wait several minutes for the compressor to fill the gun.

    Guess that I am a bit surprised that the compressor is not designed for unattended operation as most compressors are.

    At the cost of the small tanks I understand why the reservoir in not built-in to the compressor but it would make sense as an add-on accessory.

    Hank


    • Hank,

      I would never walk away and forget it on any unit (just me). It all works, until one time it does not. In most cases, a burst disc will blow, but even then. My bottom line is I keep an eye on the main gauge on the Guppy tank. It should cut off at around 4500 +/- 100. If I am watching it, I can see if it would start to hit 47, 48, 4900 and shut it down.

      The Shoebox is nice and does have an adjustable shut off. I think they (auto off) are good and should be a requirement on any HPA pump, if they are not already.

      Chris


      • Chris
        The 2nd Yong Heng compressor I have has a shut off dail built into the air gauge.

        I imagine a person could fnd one of the gauges like my compressor has and wire it into the switch on the compressor. Probably would be pretty simple to do.


      • Chris,

        I leave my shop compressor on all the time and in 14 years there has never been a problem – the tank is always full when I need it. Mind you it is “only” 8 gallons at 125 psi.

        I use my Air Venturi compressor to fill my CF tank to 4500 psi. I don’t leave it unattended and watch the last 100 psi or so but I do let the auto-shutoff do its job. Initially I was a bit nervous trusting the device but it has worked flawlessly and I am more confident with it. The compressor has a burst disk and the tank has a safety margin built-in so all should be OK if the shut-off doesn’t. Still, that being said, I would not leave the unit plugged in and running if I am not around, I like to keep an eye the temperatures.

        Hank


        • Hank,

          Got it. I would have no problem with my shop compressor staying on. Unlike you, I only use it to supply the Shoebox,… so it gets bled and drained at the end of use. I do not watch the Shoebox every second,.. but do watch it much closer when it has been running for about the usual time.

          Chris


  4. Looks quite interesting. How does is this pump handle pressure is above 3000 psi? For example, would it struggle to fill a 200 cc bottle from 1500 Psi to 4500 psi? Would you suggest a moisture dryer as well? Is that something you can fit on the intake of the pump? Or do you need to be the system for the output? Finally, how would you rate the sound level?



    • I found the cautionary statement that was shown in a picture of the rifle interesting in that review. Two misspelled words and the wrong word used in just that statement.


    • Doc

      Can’t resist adding a plug for the 34. Have had my RWS Diana 34 T06 Classic for about 6 years. A month never goes by it is not shot in my rotation habit. Cocking effort which was initially stiff is now much easier and high quality smooth. Shot cycle sound duration is as short as my HW30S thanks to two applications over time with TIAT. I prefer manual safeties but the location on top like a double shotgun beats all automatic safeties that I am aware of. As for accuracy I can now say it is as consistently accurate as any air rifle I own at 25 yards. That includes two Weihrauchs, two vintage 10 meter match rifles, a Walther LG55, Sig ASP20 and two Crosman Custom guns with 14” Walther Lothar barrels. There are others not mentioned that can do 1/2” to 3/4” but the 34 now averages 1/3 “ with ten shots using JSB 10.34 grain pellets. It has always been a good grouper but the discovery of this pellet along with TIAT has brought about a whole new level of accuracy. I chronographed 3 shots with this pellet at 785, 787 and 785 FPS. Being a drooper is a minor issue since I use a compensator to assure the scope turrets spring is under high tension.

      If this new 34 is anything like the old I recommend it too.

      Deck


  5. BB
    So this compressor does have a auto shut off that can be programmed on the display screen is what I’m getting out of it.

    I like the different things the screen displays. Simple but effective.



      • Chris
        Hmm really. Never really thought about a digital gauge that could be swapped out for the needle gauge on the pcp gun. Would have to get one and try it out to see what I thought.


  6. As great as these pumps are, the thing that worries me about them is the likelihood of them passing water vapor in the hot air charge into our guns, where that water vapor will condense into liquid water once the air charge cools down to ambient temperatures.

    This is guaranteed to happen if there is no desiccant or “drying” mechanism on the output of the compressor, pretty much regardless of how low the relative humidity is on the input side – in short, the only place on the planet it would not occur is in arctic in the winter!

    Here is a mathematical example – BB noted that in one of the tests, the compressor hit 140F. That happens due to the heat of compression, so the air charge has to be higher than that to get the pump that hot. If we assume that the air charge leaving the pump is at 150F (it is probably much higher than that), then that air charge will carry water vapor in it at that level, basically at 100% humidity. At 150F and 3000 psi, air can hold 1 gram (or cubic centimeter) of water in it as vapor, and when that air charge cools back down to about 70F, 0.8 ccs of that will condense out as water, as only 0.2 grams can be held in the air at the lower temperature. And given that the air charge is probably hotter than 150, more vapor is likely going into the reservoir than this example.

    For those that insist that low humidity on the input solves the problem, under the same conditions above (150F and 3000 psi), the dew point of that same sample of air would be at -30F. Air that dry at 70F would have a relative humidity of only 1%! Air is never that dry anywhere most of us live (thus my arctic comment above).

    So over time, water will accumulate in the reservoirs of guns that are filled straight from these pumps. I think these are going to lead to more maintenance eventually. Hand pumps that used correctly don’t have this issue, as we constantly stop pumping to let the pump cool down, and this lowers the air charge temp and thus the water vapor carried into the reservoirs. It is definitely something to think about and take action on.

    Alan



      • Gunfun,

        The average user has no way to do that. To get to a meaningful level, the compressor would need to operate at under 80F or so.

        The only other path is to dry the air after compression, and that involves chillers or desiccants, and either will require an increase in compressed volume (to pressurize the filter or flow through a chiller) and thus increase both the fill time, and the amount of “stuff” needed to support the compressor.

        Alan



          • Gunfun1,

            OK – I’ll admit that there is probably quite a bit that can be done to reduce the temp of the compressor, and that reducing the temperature will help. But I maintain that the result of that effort will still leave the air charge temperature at a high enough level that water vapor will still be a factor – it will just take more fills for it to show up, but the inevitable buildup of water over time is real.

            Even my oh-so-slow Shoebox, running with massive directed airflow, still pushes 90F on the cylinders and air block, so probably well over 100F in the output air charge. I would not trust the air flowing into my tanks at that level of absolute humidity (maybe 0.4 gram per cubic meter of air at atmospheric pressure) without additional drying (which, of course, I do on the input side of the Shoebox as it is very easy and economical to do there).

            And as you know, more airflow / more work and compression will lead to more heat to have to reject to get down to even that level. I think the only way to do it is probably water cooling, and the we are in the Yong Heng / not so portable with peripherals kind of space.

            Alan


            • Allen
              The Yong Heng compressor is very portable. And a 5 gallon bucket full of water antifreeze mix is nothing to carry along. Only draw back is a converter would be needed for the 110 volt to 12 volt.

              And in reality taking the air resivor apart after you use it will be the only way to tell how much moisture your compressor is feeding your gun. No formula will work for that.


    • Alan,

      What you say is true about absolute water vapor. My question is why exactly are you worried about the presence of a small amount of water vapor or even condensate in the reservoir?

      shootski


      • Shootski,

        I care about the water vapor going into the gun’s reservoir because that vapor will condense into water when the air cools. And that water will build up over time.

        Using the example I gave, that cubic meter of air would represent about 30 fills of a 500cc tank from 2000 to 3000 psi (you can scale or adjust from there). So fill it 100 times and there could be around 3 ccs of water rolling around in there, maybe more. That can lead to problems. Some might get shot out, but certainly not all of it.


        • Alan,

          Okay, moisture in a pressure vessel is not of zero concern. Otherwise my practices would be to be neglectful like many airgunners are until they suffer the consequences of poor adherence to best practices.
          But please read this for the take by some Experts studying the issue: https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2017/03/do-pressure-vessels-become-unsafe-over-time/

          I have been shooting PCPs from .177 Olympic style to .58 caliber since the early 1990’s filled with Handpumps, Compressors, and HPA Cylinders. I have had NO corrosion problems. My secret is a drop or two of Chamber Oil into the fill port routinely. In addition an Extremely through SCUBA best practices based cleaning/anticorrosion protocol anytime a Tube, Cylinder, HPA Vessel is opened for a repair or inspection.

          Hope that helps with understanding and reality of the facts and not the Internet/Forum fictions.

          shootski


          • Shootski,

            I can assure you I am not just raising hypothetical issues, and I am not running around worrying about “potential explosive” situations. I know plenty about compression, properties of air, fluids, and thermodynamics . . . my favorite topics, quite frankly.

            The physics are straightforward, and working withthe math on absolute humidity shows that these pumps are going to induce water into our guns, if actions are not taken to mitigate it. When this happens, it could lead to a situation that galvanic corrosion occurs in a manner that would likely lead to air leaks, with the resolution likely requiring replacement parts. It might take many years for this to happen, but it most likely will be the result.

            These pumps (and their operating results and capabilities) are fairly new to us. I too have been shooting PCPs (since about 2010), many years with hand pumps, and many with tanks at a dive shop, and eventually refilling them myself with a Shoebox and desiccant dryers. Many tear downs of PCPs and checking the tanks has shown no sign of any presence of water. But I don’t see how that can be the case with these pumps, just based on the physics of how they operate.

            Respectfully, Alan


  7. Got involved with the regular Marauder and Sam mag mod yesterday on BB’s report on the Semi Auto Marauder that I didn’t post what else I got in the mail.

    Got my Bug A Salt yesterday and the official Bug A Salt ammo too. Pretty cool. Me and my daughter already got some stink bugs.

    We shot at 3 to 4 feet and hit them no problem. And they was done on the spot. Thought they would do thier stink stuff or whatever happens. But nope nothing. Haven’t got one in flight yet. Waiting to see how that goes next.

    It’s pretty cool but only 2 things that I would think wouldn’t be. It is a little hard to cock. More spring pressure than I thought it would have and the trigger has a bit of pressure to pull but all livable (And no I’m not taking it apart to cut the preload off the main spring or mod the trigger). I know somebody is going to ask that. Chris. 😉


    • GF1,

      Looks kike they changed the safety, does thebugasalt still have an auto on safety? A pump shotgun should not have a safety that goes on after every shot. It was easy to correct on the older versions with a small screw.

      Shooting wasps and hornets you don’t want that safety going on between shots.

      Don


    • GF1,

      Awe Man! No way would I live with that! Last I looked, there was all kind of mods out there for them. Maybe some alcohol soaked salt with a spark tipped muzzle? That way it could be a Bug-A-Toaster! 🙂

      You know me too well! 🙂 Kill and cook all in 1 shot.

      Chris



      • RR
        My wife was suppose to pick up one at the local Rural King a year or so ago and they were out. So thats when I started using one of my 1377’s with a longer barrel on it and a 1399 stock to shoot salt. So I didn’t give the Bug A Salt any more thought. I now got a steel breech and 2250 barrel on it. So the scopes coming off of it and going on the Talon I’m getting from you. So the 1377 will probably get a dot sight now.

        I got those Amazon gift cards from work so I decided to get the Bug A Salt and ammo with the gift card.

        But anyway. Is yours hard to cock. Mine has pretty good spring pressure. I have to grip the cocking handle pretty good to hold on to it and cock it. And I’m pretty strong in my grip from work. It’s ok. But I just didn’t expect it to be that hard to cock.



          • RR
            You know what the instructions say about mine. Don’t use sand or dirt for ammo in the Bug A Salt. And yes I do on occasion read instructions. 🙂

            And you know I got that special official edible (it does say edible ammo on the container) Bug A Salt ammo. But it does seem to be finer than regular table salt. It’s almost like a powder but not quite.

            I don’t know if the course salt would feed right. Maybe it will. ???


        • GF1,

          Think about it,… just for a moment. The piston seal is probably crap. You can do better. Is there lube,… anywhere,.. of any kind??? What about that 10# trigger spring,.. when a 1# will do? I could go on and on,.. but I won’t. If your chicken about going inside,…I will accept that. You are gettin’ old. If you can’t remember what you had for breakfast,… you have no hope of ever getting it back together,…or finding all of the parts,…. after it blows up in your face. I understand.

          Chris 😉 No pressure here. 🙂 LOL!


      • RR,

        Would that be a P/W or 11mm rail? Perhaps duct tape,.. or epoxy? 😉

        You must have missed prompt,… but was it you or GF1 that offered me an Air Force gun about 6 months ago? GF1 says he can’t remember what he had for breakfast and I can’t remember what I had for lunch,…. so neither of us will be of any help. 😉

        GF1 says he would never offer up his Condor unless he had a brain lapse,.. or something. Either way,.. it was one of you two. So?

        Chris


    • GF1,

      I have the V2 model and have an absolute hoot with it. Mid June the deer flies are bad and the Bug-A-Salt does a number on them – always have it in the boat when I go fishing! Great for getting rid of wasps on the hummingbird feeder as well.

      Suggest that you “pattern” the gun (I used a sheet of foil) to see where it is shooting. I had to fix the crown on the barrel to get the pattern round and aligned with the sights.

      Suggest applying a bit of silicon grease on the sliding parts once in a while.

      Neat stuff eh? Glad they have toys like this for our second childhood!

      Hank


      • Hank
        My wife shot it with my daughter last night. She got one of the stink bugs on our fireplace wood pile.

        I probably should pattern it. But if we can all pick it up and hit then it has to be on target.

        Now shooting bugs on the wing. (Flying) Then yep I better pattern it. Flying targets it better be on the money. I will do that.



  8. BB, For $900. I can get an Avenger in .177, shoot bullets at 100yds with it, and fill it to 4.7k psi with this compressor.
    A Red Wolf will be a much nicer gun at $2,800. but the Avenger with a few mods can move a heavy .177 bullet at 1000 fps plus, no DRO required, just a chrony.
    Nobody ever shot .177 that far not too many years ago because there were no guns or ammo that could do it.
    A .22 lr was our only choice for affordable target shooting/ hunting that far. However, that Red Wolf will give over 400 high power shots on a fill. Thats a tin of pellets. If I could find somebody to sort the ammo, i would get a Red Wolf.
    What a double standard.
    R


  9. I know it’s late in the blog day but I sat out in the breezeway shooting the toothpick crossbow when I was making comments about the Bug A Salt after it got dark out.

    Maybe some will find this interesting. Maybe some won’t.

    But the toothpick crossbow falls right in the same shooting category and distance as the Bug A Salt salt shotgun.

    Check out these two 10 shot groups from the toothpick crossbow. And yes that is a pulled shot on the right hand group on the top. I hit the trigger when I was getting on aim. It has a light trigger.

    It looks like 3 or so feet is it for the toothpick crossbow. But that’s what they say for the Bug A Salt.

    I don’t think thats bad for the toothpick crossbow or the Bug A Salt. Either way they are fun in thier own way. And yes the tooth picks are passing through the copy paper and sticking in the back of the cardboard 18 pack box. There is a hole cut in the front side of the box where I have the copy paper taped to. So the toothpick crossbow does have a little oomph to it.

    Anyway another fun way to shoot. 🙂


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