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Crosman Fire breakbarrel air rifle: Part 4

Fire rifle
Crosman Fire breakbarrel air rifle.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

This report covers:

  • To date
  • Shim the scope
  • The test
  • Second shot
  • Adjusted the scope
  • Adjusted the scope again
  • One more scope adjustment
  • First group
  • Loosey-goosey hold
  • Adjusted the scope up
  • Discussion
  • Final group
  • Back to BB

Today I try to get the Crosman Fire to hit where I’m aiming. Please remember what this report is. I’m breaking in the Fire and shooting it like a newbie, to show those new to airguns what works, and why. They may also get a bit of what doesn’t work.

To date

In Part Three I mounted the 4X32 scope that came with the rifle. I said I figured it would shoot low no matter what I did and I was right. At the end of Part Three I got it shooting as high as two inches below the aim point. The scope was adjusted as high as it would go. Now, I’m stepping into the character of the newbie who bought the rifle.

Shim the scope

I went on a forum and several guys told me I needed to shim the rear of the scope tube to bring the shots up to the aim point. They told me to cut a thin piece of flat plastic to put under the rear of the tube, above the rear ring, so that’s what I did.

Fire rear scope ring
This is the rear scope ring on the Fire. That hole is for the Allen wrench to adjust the depth of the scope stop screw.

Fire rear scope ring shim
A piece of an expired credit card made a good shim.

Then guys told me to not tighten the scope rings screws too tight or I would bend the scope tube with the shim in place.

The test

I’ll describe the things I did as we go. The first thing was to sight in the scope, now that it has been shimmed. I found this guy online who calls himself BB Pelletier and he said to start sighting in a scope at 10 feet. Well, I could shoot from 12 feet with a brace against the door jamb and I guess that’s close enough. My first shot hit the target just to the right of the bull I aimed at, so the elevation is fine. But BB said when I back up to 10 meters the pellet will go up. I hope so because as you remember, this scope is adjusted as high as it will go.

Oh, and BB told me to use the same pellets for all of this. I used Crosman Premier 10.5-grain domes for all of today’s test, just like I did in the last test.

Fire shimmed shot 1
The first shot hit top the right of the middle bull on the left that was my aim point. So far, so good.

Second shot

Since I was on paper, I backed up to 10 meters and rested the rifle on a sandbag for shot two. Wow! This Pelletier guy was right! It hit 4 inches higher and farther to the right. But it was still on the paper target.

Fire shimmed shot 2
The second shot from 10 meters hit four inches higher and more to the right (arrow).

Shop PCP Rifles

Adjusted the scope

Now I adjusted the Fire’s scope down three full turns of the elevation adjustment and about a half turn to the left. Then I shot the third shot. It did come down and also to the left, but it still wasn’t where I wanted it. It was about an inch and a half high and three-quarters of an inch to the right.

Fire shimmed shot 3
The third shot hit lower and more to the left but it still wasn’t where I wanted it (arrow).

Adjusted the scope again

I cranked the scope down about another half turn and put in a quarter turn of left adjustment. Shot four hit just above the center of the bull for elevation but too far to the left. Now this Pelletier guy said that the group is going to have some dispersion, so we don’t keep adjusting the scope until it hits the exact center of the bull. But I wanted the shots to at least be somewhere inside the bull.

Fire shimmed shot 4
The shot is probably low enough but now it’s too far left.

One more scope adjustment

I put in a couple clicks of down adjustment just to be sure, and about 6 clicks of right adjustment. The next shot hit at the bottom of the bull.

Fire shimmed shot 5
Now I’m in the bull and I’ll take it. I’m sighted in.

First group

I moved to a clean target and shot five of the same Premier pellets. They went into a group that measures 1.093-inches between centers. The group is in the right place but it’s too big for my tastes — especially when shot from only 10 meters! It’s also very vertical.

Fire group 1
Once sighted in the Fire put 5 Premier pellets into a 1.093-inch group at 10 meters. As you can see it’s very vertical.

The guys online said I should try something BB Pelletier calls the artillery hold. Why he calls it that I don’t know, but one of the forum guys told me to just hold the Fire as loose as a goose. So that’s what I’m calling it.

I had already seen a video of this artillery hold and I didn’t understand how it could work, but the guy has been right so far, so what the heck? I’ll try it.

Loosey-goosey hold

I’ll be darned! The 5-shot group fired when I held the rifle loosey-goosey measures 0.878-inches between centers It’s still in line with the center of the bull but it hit an inch and a half below the aim point. Who knew?


The second group with the rifle held loosey-goosey was smaller than the first one, measuring 0.878-inches between centers. I need to try this some more!

Adjusted the scope up

I adjusted the scope up 6 clicks and shot again. I was still holding the Fire loose, and now I was concentrating on doing it.

The next group did rise a bit, but was still below the bull I was aiming at. But it measured 0.499-inches between centers. Now I was getting somewhere.

Fire group 3
The third group measures 0.499-inches between centers. It’s still not high enough, but it’s the kind of accuracy I was after. The Fire can shoot!

Discussion

Okay, all this crazy stuff BB Pelletier talks about really works. Some guys on the forum told me I needed to get a better scope or the Fire wouldn’t shoot for me. To them I say — IN YOUR FACE!

One guy told me that I shouldn’t sight to hit the center of the bullseye because I would shoot my aim point away, but since I can’t see the center of the bull clearly I don’t think that matters. Remember guys, this rifle is all I can afford, so this scope will have to do for now.

Final group

I adjusted the scope up another 6 clicks and shot a final group. This time some of the pellets went into the bottom of the bull. This last group measures 0.438 inches between centers and is the smallest group I have shot with the Fire so far.


The final group of Premiers was the best. Five shots in 0.438-inches at 10 meters

So — the Crosman Fire is an accurate pellet rifle — when you know how to set it up and shoot it. And BB Pelletier knows his stuff! I’m sold.

I will say that if I could see the target a little better I bet I could do a little better, too. So that new scope may be on my short list — not because this one doesn’t work but because this Fire is accurate enough to warrant the additional expense.

The guys on the forum also told me to try other pellets and I will, but BB said to stick to just one pellet to get this far. Either I lucked out in picking the Premier or the Fire is just an accurate air rifle.

Back to BB

See how it works, guys? We go stepwise through the parts of testing our new air rifle and lookie lookie, who’s got the cookie!

57 thoughts on “Crosman Fire breakbarrel air rifle: Part 4”

  1. “Five shots in 0.438-inches at 10 meters”
    B.B.,
    That’s pretty good; I think that’s the smallest group I’ve seen shot with one of those package-deal scopes.
    It would be nice to see how she does at 25 yards with an upgraded scope. ๐Ÿ™‚
    Thanking you for all you do,
    dave

    • The only other .22 caliber pellets regularly available at our wallyworld are Crosman Premier Hollowpoints and Ruger-branded SuperPoints. I wonder if the latter are re-branded RWS Superpoints. B.B., you may want to try them, too, to round out the newbie experience.

      • Roamin Greco, Yep, our Walmart always has them, too; and luckily, they shoot great in my 1322 pistol, 1322 carbine, and 362. Hence, I like to keep a good supply on hand. ๐Ÿ˜‰

        • Dave, based on what you and Half Step say, I will have to pick them up to test. I always love discovering the best CHEAP pellet as well as the BEST pellet. In my opinion, when the BEST pellet is also among the cheapest pellets, that’s something special. I have one that shoots HN Excite Econ IIs the best, and thats just over a penny per shot.

      • R G,
        I don’t think they are the same pellet. In this pic the pellet on the left is the RWS and the one on the right is the Ruger. You can judge for yourself, but they don’t look much alike to my eye. BTW, I’ve found the Ruger Hollow Points in .177 (only caliber they make them in, apparently) are the most accurate in both of my Daisy 853s. I tested over 30 pellets and none came close to these at 10 meters. If you’re interested in buying some, the only store I’ve found them in is Meijer. I stocked up once I found out how sparsely distributed they are.

        Half

    • Yogi,

      “Yea it is cheap, what can you expect?”
      That it at least works; which means that it at least is possible to adjust the bundled scope enough to hit what the rifle and scope is pointed at!
      But you are correct Yogi…maybe that is asking too much in the World we have today!

      shootski

      • The real problem is folks accepting droop. GF1 could probably adjust the milling process by a tiny amount and fix it. Sig figured it out. Others seem to think if sights on barrel work, that is good enough. I don’t have a leggo rifle, but all my PBs line up fine. Fixed barrels should not droop! My Chinese underlever has no problem.

        It would be useful if blog folks would report, droop vs none, when they get something new. It might give manufacturers something to think about.

    • I agree with you, Yogi. If a lot of new airgunners start at the big box and get frustrated with scope issues or accurracy issues, we lose a fair number of would-be airgunners and shooters in general. So the gun needs to be accurate enough for the purposes for which it is advertised or there has to be a copy of or a link to this type of blog or good instructions in the box so the buyer can have some hope of hitting that pop can, or squirrel, or pigeon, etc. Once that newbie is hitting what they are aiming at, they are hooked. Then you have a repeat customer. Look at me. 2 years ago, I didn’t even know all you guys and gals existed. Now I have more airguns than the gun cabinet can hold and I am looking at three more!

  2. Yup, but for the group sizes, that’s pretty much every new gun I get, same guy too.

    Hi All,
    This weekend I’m looking forward to another round of testing to see if one can “tune” the accuracy of a multi-pump for a given pellet by the number of pumps. Last weekend’s results with the old Daisy were… encouraging for more testing! If you want to play too, here is the link to the google sheet where we can record data:
    docs dot google dot com
    /spreadsheets/d/1A7DbYotHteZNxjIdSZfcG00edrjkUYcus0OD43qLPPM/edit?usp=sharing
    Have a goosey weekend!
    Mike

  3. B.B.,

    Your newbie seems to have gotten some good advice…but have you ever seen a newbie crank in three turns of down elevation? Maybe you told him some more stuff OFF LINE that didn’t make it into your blog writeup, LOL!

    shootski

  4. BB,

    What was amazing about this was that the newbie even looked and/or “listened’ to advise. Usually, they try their way and when that doesn’t work, into the yard sale the airgun goes and that is that. I have picked up some decent airguns that way.

    I was fortunate/lucky that I like to dig out the information before I jump into something like airgunning. I did a lot of research and also listened to what you had to say before I bought my first air rifle, a Gamo CFX. I shot it and experimented with it for two years before I bought another airgun. I tried a gas sproing in it. I experimented with different holds and different pellets. Eventually, I found the right combination of hold/pellet for that air rifle and was able to hide a ten-shot group at twenty-five yards under a dime.

    Advise to newbies: Do your homework. It will be worth it.

    • >>>Usually, they try their way and when that doesnโ€™t work, into the yard sale the airgun goes and that is that. I have picked up some decent airguns that way.<<<

      RR,

      That's exactly what happened for me. I just finished tuning an FX Crown MK2 that I got for a trade for some archery stuff.

      The guy went for a "maximum power tune" (to shoot pigeons at 150 yards with slugs) right out of the box and totally messed everything up.

      Don't know if anybody is interested but I still have my tuning targets and could put together a guest blog on how I restored the rifle to shooting condition. …Maybe BB would comment on that.

      Yeah, deals to be had. One man's garbage is another's treasure. The Crown is shooting excellent groups now.

      Hank

      • Hank,

        That sounds like a good blog material. Returning a basket case back into proper condition. With so many screws that the original owner could have turned where does one start?

        Siraniko

        • Siraniko,

          With no prior experience with the Crown and no “ball park” numbers to go by I dialed the reg and hammer spring down below “typical” minimums so I could work my way up to an area where I could start tuning.

          Hank

      • Hank,

        But is it shooting pigeons at 150 yards???

        When we choose a tool,, it is best to understand two things,, what you want the tool to do,, and what the tool is capable of doing. Your friend wanted an air rifle that would give good accuracy at 150 yards, and then,, apparently,, went to some effort to change the one he bought into the one he wanted.

        It was unfortunate for him ( and fortunate for you) that he was not equipped with the expertise nor the skills to make it work for him. Were his expectations too high? For the rifle,,, or for himself?? Likely one or both.

        In any case,, the Crown is now in good hands. I hope that your friend is happy with whatever it was that you traded to him. If he is like those I know who have done similarly,, I have my doubts that he will be.

        Ed

        • Ed,

          Don’t know about 150 yards, the Crown is likely capable it’s the operator that is lacking ๐Ÿ˜‰ Did find that with 15.89 pellets, smacking grackles at 65 yards was not difficult.

          Agreed, get the tool for the job. Think the owner wanted an Impact but grabbed a Crown because that was what was available.

          Think that the Crown is (easily) capable it’s his expectations were too high – we are talking about a guy who, with 5 rested shots can’t hit a gallon paint can at 50 yards with a deer rifle. A pigeon at 25 yards would not have to worry LOL!

          So far he is happy with the trade. Been giving him some lessons and he has taken to archery pretty well. His eyes did bug-out a bit when he watched me shooting 1/4″ to 3/8″ groups at 40 yards with the Crown though. Think he realized that the rifle wasn’t the problem.

          Hank

          • Hank

            I believe that almost anyone can be taught to shoot well,,,,IF,,, they are willing to put in the time and effort. Good instruction is also important. It is very difficult to see one’s own flaws.

            At this time,, without a lot of refitting and refining, there really aren’t any production air rifles being made that are capable of his desire, even disregarding ineptitude. 150 yard pigeon shooting is mostly a crap shoot even with powder burners. With airguns,, it would be the holy grail.

            Nice shot on the grail, by the way.

            Ed

          • RG

            Hard to say. 450 ft,, about 900 fps at the muzzle and I’m guessing half that at the pigeon would be 675fps average. So 3/4 of a second or so ought to be effective as pigeons are not all that bright and they don’t move very fast.

            My guess is that by the time I fired enough near misses at him, he would get the hint.

            Ed

          • Roamin,

            From watching some of the videos it seems that the pigeons sit quite still if they are just roosting.

            If you are curious, these guys do a lot of long range pesting with hopped-up FX Impacts shooting 40gr, .22 caliber slugs at around 1000 fps. https://youtube.com/c/AirTacHunting

            Punching paper at long range is fun and challenging but (personally) I don’t shoot at live game beyond my maximum effective range which is around 70 yards with a good rest.

            Hank

      • Shootski

        First an attaboy for BB. I was reading the 2006 report you suggested and got so caught up in it, I left a comment forgetting it was a 12 year old report. Well golly gee, BB responded to my comment. I am amazed! I know he reads all reader comments but to reply to a 2012 report comment is over the top.

        Shootski, thanks for pointing us all to a good reference.

        Deck

      • BB

        When I am shooting for accuracy (as opposed to can killing), I don’t use a “grip” at all. I simply lay my thumb along the side of the stock. My fingers are still under the stock,, but even there I “cradle” rather than “grip”. It works best with lighter trigger weights,, but even on the heavier pull weights, I am only pulling against my shoulder with my trigger finger.

        In the end,, I guess we all do what we have found to work for us.

        Ed

          • RG

            If you think about it,, it makes sense. Changing where your finger is on the trigger changes the amount of pressure you need to pull it. Not by much,, but it doesn’t take much. Pretty much the same for what part of the finger is on the trigger. I go for the center of the pad with everything I shoot. Where it is on the trigger, tho, depends on the gun and how it “feels”. Sometimes I need quite a few “sighters” before I remember when I change guns.

            Ed

      • I have a couple of thumbhole-stocked rifles. I just let the bottom of the grip sit on my strong hand pinky, and l also usually keep my thumb out of the hole and lay it alongside the stock so that my tendency to squeeze doesn’t torque the gun. That’s the loosest I can hold it with the thumbhole stock.

  5. Don’t forget PA still sells “drooper mounts” if you don’t want to shim the rear scope ring.

    Fred formerly of the Demokratik Peeples Republik of NJ now happily in GA

  6. B.B.,
    Another good entry B.B., I was your newbie before I found this blog.
    For years, youโ€™ve mentioned shimming the scope to compensate for barrel droop, but I did not remember what you used as a shim (because I forgot), or how big it should be, so I appreciated seeing you shim the scope for us as a lesson. I am still unsure of how tightly you snug it down, so the tube wonโ€™t kink.
    The relative softness of the plastic card seems a good choice for shim material, because it has less chance to dig into the body of the scope than a metal shim.
    Do scope shims slip, or do they usually stay put?

    Thank you,
    Will

    • Will S.,
      .
      “I am still unsure of how tightly you snug it down, so the tube wonโ€™t kink.”
      It depends…
      I have been mounting scopes on firearms and airguns for years and found that “degreasing the male and female threads is a real key to getting the machine screws to stay put and/or for the torque values to be valid. Yesterday at the range I found my rear scope mount machine screw loose on my .177 ASP20. The scope ring is on a Picatinny rail so I used more or less finger tight (10-15 in/lbs) the Magnum shook it loose in 50 or so shots! I hadn’t degreased this set so after I did it held just fine for the next 75 shots. Do a SEARCH online for
      TORQUE RESOURCE: general fastener torque specs. It will get you in the right mindset to NOT Over Torque which is almost always BAD!

      UTG says to snug ring caps until no gaps are apparent. With the plastic shim i would use the short end of the Allen wrench and never the long leg or with a slot keep the grip on the handle firm but not crushing it!
      Let the CLEAN threads do the holding!

      shootski

      • shootski, thanks for your ‘wisdom’, It should be common sense that threads have better hold when they’re not slippery, due to degreasing.

        Which means, I’m not common ! ๐Ÿ™‚

      • Shootski, I hear what you are saying. But I am wondering…I have now worked on about 10 used airguns (so far). All but one had rusty screws. So how do you keep screws (and the rails and the jaws of scope mounts) from rusting if they are bone dry from degreasing? Is there a product that will dry leaving a rust-preventative film on metal that won’t act as a lubricant for screws and the other metal pieces and parts hiding from sight in the little nooks and crannies of our guns? When I was growing up and reading about firearms, I recall learning to deep clean and lightly oil all the metal parts of a firearm at least once per year whether or not it had been fired. Dad never did, so it was up to me to extract all the crud and sludge from the shotguns and deer rifles. But I always worried about the parts I could not reach or wipe down because I was too afraid of not getting them back together properly.

        • Roamin Greco,

          Yes taking out your guns from the gunsafe on a periodic basis and cleaning, polishing, and OILING them is so typically LAST MILLENNIUM!
          I hope you aren’t locking them up in a, relatively recent) non poured steel “FIREPROOF” Gunsafe! The ones you got from others with rust might have been stored in one of those RUST BOXES. The gypsum board wedged into the thin steel walls is horrible for the mild metals our firearms and airguns are fabricated with!
          So what are we all to do?
          Use VCI (Volatile and/or Vapor Corrosion Inhibitors) of course and realize that the odds of your guns melting or going up in smoke are VERY LOW. And, can be lowered by the choice you make on where you store them in your abode.
          I could recommend lots of VCI products and companies but will only give one just to get you started: https://www.zerustproducts.com/products/product-category/firearms-ammo-weapons/
          There are many other companies and products out there.

          shootski

  7. Thanks for the reply, Shootski,
    For regular scope mounting, I’ve been using the short end of the Alen key as the lever to tighten the screws and the recommendation was to stop tightening before the key hurts your fingers. I wouldn’t bother with a torque wrench for this. So if I ever shim a scope, I’ll tighten it as I normally do, but with “some consideration.” ๐Ÿ™‚
    Your recommendation to degrease the fastener threads makes a lot of sense, for scope rings and for stock screws. Thank you!
    Will

    • Will

      Recently BB has convinced me shimming is an excellent way to assure turret spring or springs have plenty of tension. Iโ€™ve not had one slip either (his commnent) and so far Iโ€™ve not dented a scope barrel. The intentional misalignment does add friction. I donโ€™t use a torque wrench and do use the long end for arthritis reasons. Just going by feel. I have mounted most of my scopes this way. I should add that if I owned an expensive scope I would use a Sportsmatch adjustable mount or a droop mount.

      Deck

  8. While the Center point 4×32 airgun scope isn’t a great scope, the ones I’ve had are certainly useable. I have one on my previous model F4, and it is working and holding up all right. Nailed a fat rat the other night in our chicken coop. Yesterday I tested it to see how high it shot an RWS Hobby at 15 yards with 7 yard zero. Turned out right at 2″ high. Can’t shoot heavier pellets in mine, because the cheekpiece on the butt comes flying off. Maybe time for some epoxy? Paid like ,$80 for the F4 new.

    • Nailed an “iggy” a couple of days ago with the aid of the Center Point on my Maximus .22, but now that the Whiskey3 is here, it will go onto Max and the Center Point will retire with honor – or maybe go on another non-springer.

      • FawltyManual,

        I look forward to your reports on your ASP WHISKEY3!
        i’m really happy with mine out to 75 yards for hunting. For target shooting i really wish it had more magnification.
        I guess i’m spoiled by high quality 25 and 30 power scopes that let you see sub millimeter dots or count hairs at 100+….
        My opinion (and a camera lens test image) say that for the price you paid for the ASP WHISKEY3 it is almost impossible to find a better scope; even when buying a used scope!

        shootski

  9. Thanks, B.B. for this report. I was a newbie to this blog not much more than a year ago.

    One thing I would add is that many guns need lots of shots to break in. Sometimes 100, sometimes 500, sometimes well over 1,000. Sometimes polishing that barrel with a bronze brush and some JB Nonembedding Bore Paste will accelerate that process. And then seasoning the barrel with 10-20 shots of one type of pellet will let you know if the gun will group. It is also invaluable to read reviews like on this blog to help select pellets that did well for the tester in the tester’s sample gun as a starting point.

    So, I’m impressed that you were able to get a bone-stock inexpensive airgun to group as well as you did in less than the first tin. The gun will likely improved the more it is shot. It will likely have sufficient accuracy for plinking and some occasional pesting.

    Of course, even with P.A.’s return policy, hopefully it takes less than 1,000 shots before a customer decides whether to forge ahead or return the gun and try again.

  10. B.B. and readership, I recently acquired a new toy–a Winchester 435 (Diana 35) made in 1971, from an auction. It is in good shape. No rust anywhere, and just a minor imperfection on the stock. It’s a beauty. I read all the reports on this blog that I could find using an advanced Google search.

    Here are the problems and questions: When I cock the breakbarrel, sometimes, not always, there is a “cruching” or “ratcheting” sound. It’s not loud, but it is there. Also at the shot there is a quiet little ping, like a tiny little bell that you would find on a hotel desk with a sign that says “ring for service.* Also, even though I don’t have a chrony (I know, no more excuses), I can usually tell the relative difference in velocity by hearing the delay between pulling the trigger and the pellet smacking the target at 10 yards. I noticed this when experimenting with multipumps and with the adjustable power Crosman Mark I and II. In the case of the Winchester 435, although I can’t hear any delay between firing and the pellet hitting the target at 10 yards, which tells me I am getting above 500 fps or so, a Superdome only penetrates into a lump of duct seal as deep as the pellet length. The back of the skirt was even with the surface of the duct seal. I am thinking the gun is shooting at less than full power.

    So I’m thinking based on the above symptoms, perhaps I have a broken spring? Anyone have any other guesses?

    Next, the gun’s globe front sight will accept front sight inserts. The gun only came with an insert that looks like a single picket from a picket fence. It’s hard for me to aim with. The inserts appear to have one “ear” on one side that is bigger than the other. Is there anyplace that sells sets of inserts like P.A. does for the Weihrauch globe sight? I saw some online at JG or Chambers, but they were sold singly.

    Is there any way I can recondition or replace the recoil pad? The rubber is getting hard and is beginning to crack around the screw holes.

    Oh and a little while back, I picked up a Diana peep sight, and it works perfectly on the rail. I would love to find a rubber eye cup for it.

    I find I really like the Winchester versions of the Dianas. They have a more American style. The 435 shoots very well so far at 10 yards with the artillery hold out near the front of the forearm, under the two stock screws. It is not pellet picky at all, and I have shot several pellets into o.3 inch groups of ten shots.

      • Thankfully, I have your excellent reports to guide me. Time to buy or build a mainspring compressor and get to work. I have to decide what spring to put in. Do you or any others out there have any suggestions?

    • Check the 10m specialty sites – Champion’s Choice, for example sells Anschutz (part #9700) and Gehmann (part #G806) rubber eyeshades that clip over 1″ rear aperture discs, for about $10. They sell Daisy 4pc globe inserts (2.6, 3.8, 4.0 and 4.4 mm) (part #168968) for $6. Do your research on these items, especially the inserts, to be sure they’ll fit.

      Beware: I have bought many items from Champion’s Choice with only one complaint: As I recall it, their shipping costs to you are horrendous. They’ll ship USPS if you call them direct, maybe cheaper, but their online shipping is UPS and to my memory, is astronomical. They also will not quote a shipping price. After the order is packed, they’ll add it to the order – as Goober’s cousin, Gomer, said from boot camp, “…Surprise, surprise…” At least, that’s my memory of the matter.
      JE

      • JE, thank you sir. I have perused the Champions’ Choice website and I find it bewildering. Too many choices of certain items that I don’t know what they do. It’s humbling that after hanging around herebfor a while, I have so much to learn. But thank you for the advice and the part numbers. I WILL look into it. Especially the inserts. I have a feeling that this gun really wants to shoot.

  11. Happy Sunday to all!
    I don’t like to work on Sunday; it’s my day of rest…yet what could be more restful than shooting airguns? Hahaha!
    So, I finally got around to sighting in my Croman 362. As noted previously, this one came with the front sight a bit twisted; that’s no big deal; I used a heat gun on it, and twisted it back. But even with the stock peep sight moved as far to the left as it would go, the rifle still shot to the right. Fortunately, the stock front sight was pretty wide.
    As we all know from reading B.B.’s blog over the years, if you are going to adjust your point-of-impact using the front sight, you have to move the front sight in the opposite direction of the way you would like to move your impact point. So, if I wanted to move my point of impact to the left, I would move the front sight to the right. Hence, what I did was to start removing material from the left side of the front blade; taking material off the left side is equivalent to moving the front sight to the right.
    After three tries, I got her windage down to where I can cut a pencil at 15 yards; so now I can hit the little 1/2″ plastic disks that are my go-to plinkers for 15 yards (front sight width is now 0.050″…nice!)
    Am I pleased with this rifle? Absolutely! Crosman did a great job with this gun; I’ve got her sighted in with 6 pumps, just the way I’ve been using my old Sheridan for the last 40-odd years…except it’s quite a bit easier to put 6 pumps in this rifle than my Sheridan. I may do some mods some day; but for the moment, I’m just shooting her and enjoying her as she came from the factory. I think it would be difficult to find a nicer hunter, pester, plinker for $100 than this [new] ol’ gal. And her balance for offhand shooting is pretty nice…I just need more practice at offhand shooting, but that’s no fault of the rifle; I think this one’s a keeper. ๐Ÿ™‚
    Praise the Lord! Today goes down in the books as a most restful and satisfying day.
    Any time I get a gun perking the way it’s supposed to, that gives me a sense of satisfaction, as well as some piece of mind; I hope that makes sense to you…since you’re airgunners, I’m sure it does. ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Peace & good shooting to you,
    dave

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