By Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- Computer crash
- More power
- Is all the power still there?
- Breech seals
- Transfer ports
- Air transfer port test
- I could go on!
- Today’s point
Computer crash
My main computer died suddenly Monday morning, so I had to scramble to get a new one and have the old data transferred. I’m working on Edith’s computer that has the same software but is set up differently in the user interfaces. So things have been a struggle this week. One big problem is transferring photos and videos from cameras. I can do it, but it takes 4 times as long.
More power
I was hoping to do the Teach me to shoot report on holding a 1911 pistol today, but the computer issue made that impossible. So I’m going to address a topic that seems to be coming up a lot these days — getting more power from an airgun. You know, comedian Tim Allen built his career around the premise that men always want more power from everything. And he took that to the extremes — showing just how ridiculous it can become. Like an episode on his television show, Tool Time, where he got into racing garden tractors with V8 engines installed. Like the Boss Hoss motorcycle, they are something to see, but you wouldn’t want to ride one very far!
And I received a request for how to increase power in a Daisy Red Ryder yesterday. The Red Ryder has a BB gun mechanism — not a regular spring-piston powerplant, and as such is not conducive to power increases.
Is all the power still there?
Oddly, I had a dream the night before writing this report. I was in England with my Beeman R1 rifle and the authorities were about to check its power. But I had secretly removed the breech seal and that turned a 19 foot-pound gun into one that only has 5 foot-pounds. Maybe I thought of this because my Webley Mark II Service breech seal leaks badly and needs replacing. In my dream it worked, but would it work in real life? Is a breech seal really that important?
Breech seals
Yes, breech seals are very important to the power of most airguns, but I don’t know that missing one would chop the power by that much (19 foot-pounds to 5 foot-pounds). Don’t even think it would cut it in half!
This HW 35 breech seal (arrow) is old and worn flat. It is losing air and velocity.
A new breech seal added an average of 26 f.p.s. to the rifle, plus tightened the spread.
Transfer ports
There is something similar that I do know, however, because it actually happened to me. When my new Whiscombe rifle arrived I was excited to see how powerful it was, so, like every airgunner I know, I shot it across a chronograph. With the .22 caliber barrel installed I was getting under 6 foot-pounds! I was devastated! How could this be? I had paid a bundle of money to get the mostest-powerfulest spring airgun on the planet. Did they send me one made for the UK market that was permanently hamstrung for their power laws?
I called Rodney Boyce, the U.S.-based agent through whom I purchased the rifle. He laughed when I told him what I’d found. He told me that whenever Whiscombe shipped a rifle out of the UK, even though it was an FAC (Firearm Certificate) power rifle, the Home Office wanted it to leave the country restricted in power. So he installed an air transfer port limiter, which was an Allen screw with a hole in the center. He had included a package of them with my rifle so I could experiment with different power levels. All I had to do was remove the limiter with the wrench he provided and the rifle would return to full power.
The air transfer port in this Whiscombe JW75 has a limiter installed. An Allen wrench removes it.
Whiscombe sent a range of air transfer port limiters, plus a couple screws that I could drill out myself.
When I removed the limiter, the rifle jumped from under 6 foot-pounds to over 26 foot-pounds in .22 caliber, using the same pellets. In .25 caliber it got over 32 foot-pounds. So air transfer ports do make a huge difference in power. But you can’t just open them up as large as you want!
Air transfer port test
Tim the Toolman Taylor (More Power!) would have drilled out the air transfer port until the piston popped out. His approach was always to make it bigger, stronger and more powerful. Unfortunately, that doesn’t always work.
When I wrote the Beeman R1 book, I did a test of air transfer ports that was included in the custom tune chapter. Dennis Quackenbush made me a special R1 spring tube with interchangeable transfer ports and I tested them to find out what worked. My test wasn’t exhaustive, but it did prove that the transfer port size 0.125-inches that is already in the R1 is the optimum size for both .22 and .177 calibers.
This R1 transfer port can be changed quickly. Made by Dennis Quackenbush.
Dennis also made these transfer port inserts for my experiment.
I could go on!
And that’s not all. I remember the rifle that wanted to take the R1 design supersonic in .22 caliber. It weighed 11 lbs and cocked with over 50 lbs. of effort, yet was no more powerrul than an R1. Read about it here.
Today’s point
While it is possible to get more power from some airguns, it isn’t straightforward. It turns out that the people who design the guns have already gotten most of the power that’s available. But sometimes there are guns that will benefit from a tune or even a modification. An R1 is the perfect example of that.
On the flip side, though, there are plenty of airguns that are good just the way they are. You need to recognize that before you start chopping off barrels and drilling out transfer ports. Sometimes it’s possible to get more power from an airgun by using a few almost never-miss tricks — but the question always is the same — do you really want to?
A high-school buddy of mine bought a clapped-out MG TD, but since we lived in California, it was not rusted out. He put a small-block V8 engine into tit, transforming an odd, underpowered sports car into a vibrating, overpowered jalopy that overheated on cool days. But he got more horsepower — yes he did. A car like that is nice for a car show where people can dream about it, but not in real life. And neither is a mega-magnum spring rifle that takes a Hercules to cock! Save stuff like that for your daydreams, but shoot real airguns!
Tom,
Before I read the blog, just on seeing the title, my first thought was give me more ACCURACY.
Jim
I was on a few airgun forums and members of some airgun groups on facebook and ultimately became frustrated because it seemed like all everyone wanted to do was modify and hack on their guns. I always say just shoot it and shoot it a lot. Maybe when you get to the point that you can outshoot the airgun (which most of us never will) then you should think about modifying it. The best thing you could spend your money on is pellets not modifications!
Well THAT took a while to read…since I first had to find Boss Boss motorcycles and read a few articles on those before coming back!
Sounds like something Captain Kirk would shout at Engineering with Scotty answering back, “I cannae give you more! Ya cannae hit the target!”
Exactly!
And then Captain Kirk would say something like, “Turn on auxiliary power and bypass the safeties!”
B.B.,
Good article. I was a big fan of Tim The Tool Man Taylor. Also, I am a big fan of modding and tweaking things. Like you said, some things can be done that are quite easy,.. and others very complex and will add little or nothing.
Gunfun’s .25 M-rod is making 150 fps more than mine,.. I want that. But, it is highly tuned, some of which are not the easiest. Then there is the SSG device over at GTA that has gone through various progressions, from crude and “backyard”,.. with the latest versions, from fellow readers, coming out looking quite refined. The purpose of the SSG is to keep max. power, while keeping the shot count high. I want that.
Or do I? The .25 will punch clean through a steel can, both sides, at 100 yards,…. and send it flying 5′ up and 10′ back. Maybe that is good enough?,….. for now 😉 .
Maybe instead,.. I will just learn to be consistently good with it.
Chris
Chris,
Exactly right. Spend time with it. Find THE pellet. Tweak and tune that rifle for the optimum performance you desire before you start to tinker. You may find it will give you what you want.
Chris,
Something to keep in mind. My signature on another forum says “What good is +500 FPE if you can’t hit what you are shooting at?”. Now you do have to keep in mind that this is coming from a guy who is obsessed with achieving one hole groups at +100 yards. Some power is needed to do such, but the secret is finding the right balance.
R.R.,
“obsessed with one hole groups at 100 yds.”,…….. with an air gun,……. that ought to qualify for free psychiatric help,… somewhere,……… 😉 Current goal is 1″ at 100 yards,….. that ought to qualify for something too,…. but they would put you to the “front of the line!”
🙂 Chris
Chris,
1″ at 100 is quite doable with many quality air rifles, most especially if you sort your pellets. There are a few air rifles such as the RAW HM1000X that is doing that without sorting. Yeah, it means opening the wallet way up, but hey, if it is your obsession…
Chris USA
I would say that all depends on what your doing with your .25 Mrod.
Punch’n paper. Well then maybe a higher shot count.
Hunting. The way I look at that is I only get one shot and it better be right when I make the shot. No time in my book for a follow up shot if I didn’t place the shot right the first time. What’s that saying. “one shot one kill”
My experience has been that the only reason for more power would be to achieve the optimum power range for the task/rifle/pellet/range combination.
My 1906 BSA was designed for 10 yard competition shooting. It does a great job for at that range and even out to 25 yards. It is not a powerhouse, but I do not need it to be.
I am building my Edge into a mini sniper. I have increased the power to about 12 FPE for now as I am working on optimum accuracy out to 50 yards. After a barrel swap, I will play with raising and lowering the power to find what works best. What is really cool is every mod I have done to my Edge, I can undo and return it to original in about an hour. AirForce air rifles are a tinker’s dream come true.
I want to get a break barrel sproinger suitable for small game hunting. My experience and from what I have read here and other places is I probably want one in the 12-14 FPE range. Most magnum sproingers such as the R1 seem to be very pellet fussy and very hold sensitive. They also weigh a lot, which is not fun when you are walking through rugged, thick woods all day chasing after tree rats. I am thinking of something like an HW95 or Walther Terrus.
To complete my air rifle collection I want to end up with a PCP capable of long range accuracy. I am talking one MOA at 100+ yards. Now we are starting to talk about some power. But once again, we do not need to max it out. The RAW HM1000X in .357 is quite capable of doing just that, but they actually adjust it down in power to achieve that accuracy with the JSB pellets.
As I said earlier, you need to find the optimum power range for the task/rifle/pellet/range combination to suit your task.
I do not need a V8 to get back and forth to work.
RR
Funny you say that about a V8.
Me neither but my 2016 Sonic RS turbo that has already gotten some mods does just fine in the gas mileage department.
Well and it’s taking care of the V8’s so far pretty easily too. 😉
And am I through modding it yet? I think not. Adequate power? Well I’ll put it this way I like my car car to have way more than adequate power. That’s why they put them there accelerator pedals in cars. 🙂
Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know. You can’t leave anything alone. If you can’t modify it, you don’t want it.
By the way, what is a Sonic RS turbo, some kind of milkshake?
RR
Maybe a ballistic super shake. 🙂
GF1,
No, seriously, what are you talking about?
RR
One of these in yellow.
https://www.google.com/search?q=chevy+sonic+turbo&client=ms-android-verizon&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwie9vTb7_PNAhVPxCYKHUmgA-kQ_AUIBygB&biw=360&bih=559&dpr=4#imgrc=ul6s-EPOQsoWoM%3A
GF1,
I shoot “those” things at 100 yds.,….. (tin cans). 🙂
Got the Grizzly’s’,…… take a ball and press it into a flat rear end until the edge becomes sharp. That is about the extent of the skirt. Picture to follow later this weekend.
Chris USA
I think more like mostly plastic actually with a little tin thrown in. And you now the new Ford F150’s have aluminum body panels now.
But you know what aluminum body parts ain’t nothing new. The early 60’s from the factory 409 Chevy Biscayne with the drag pack had aluminum fenders and hoods and bumper. Not many where made. You know how you could tell through the paint without even touching a magnet to it. You could be 10 feet away from one and tell. You know how? By all the little ping dents all over from people walking by and tapping their knuckle on it a few times to see if it was a original drag pack car.
But yep that’s what I was hopping the Grizzlys would look like on the back side. I’m excited to hear what they shoot like in your .25 Mrod.
GF1,
Just funnin’ with on the “tin can” stuff. Saturday is looking good with a brief stop at Mom and Dad’s in the AM and shopping after. Should be back here by noon. Weather permitting,… I should be out by 1 PM’ish.
For a “tease”,…. it looks like you could put a Torx bit in the front end. The length,…. in case you are interested,…. the 33.95’s are .354″,….. and the 31.00 Grizzly’s are .306″. So,…. they are a bit more (rear) weighted.
Chris USA
.354″ and .306″ ???
Weight ???
And that storm that came through by me yesterday around 4:00 pm knocked the power out in a major big area. Bunch’s of city’s without power. It just now came on about a hour ago. Not no fun with 96° temperatures. Couldn’t even open the windows to let air flow through the house. Just all hot air blowing outside.
Anyway back to normal. Can cook again too. All electric house wich is kind of a bummer. Had to grill some hamburgers and hot dogs before I came to work today. Oh well they tasted good anyway. 🙂
Chris,
Let me know how the Grizzly performs in .25. I tried them in .35 in a Benjamin Rogue and the results were not even worth talking about. Of course the performance of a Benjamin Rogue are not worth talking about.
Oh and just in case you are curious, I tried the JSBs in it also. Another waste of time and money in that thing.
GF1,
LOL! OK. I don’t keep up with what the car world is doing. Their marketing is mostly an annoying intrusion into my attempts to zombie out before bedtime.
We are contemplating a new Subaru Forester for the Mrs. If we do that, I get the Suzuki SX4 to drive and I can start restoring my ’04 Ranger pickemup. I figure for what they want for a new truck nowadays I can drop a pretty large bundle into it and still come out way ahead.
To transfer pics and vids quickly from your cameras to your computer, Tom, use USB (apologies if that’s what you’re already doing).
Interesting dream you had in England, heh.
Chris,
USB is how I have to do it now. I was doing it wirelessly, which is much faster. Fortunately my new computer recognizes all the inputs and can adapt.
B.B.
Tom, I hope you’re prepared, by the way, my friend. Same goes to all your readers.
As you know, I’m massively into politics etc; and, me and some other English lads are watching the ongoing events in America with rage. All out race war has been declared on Americans, and the hordes will not stop. When they’re a large majority in America in just one decade or so, it’s going to be bad. Very bad.
Violent, wide-spread civil war is now absolutely inevitable, sir. So, I just want you to be fully aware so that you’ll be prepared etc. You most likely are already very prepared, but I’m just putting it out there man.
Hopefully, Trump will win. But the political system is deeply corrupt and compromised, as you know, I’m sure. We no longer actually live in democracies.
Okay, thanks man.
Is there a way to contact someone that has posted a comment to the blog without taking up space in the comments section? Like a personal message?
Jonah,
No real good way to do it privately.
B.B.
MORE POWER! I can’t help from looking at a toilet paper holder spring and wondering how I can use it in an airgun to gain more power. Come on, you know you’ve all done it too! We are all addicts here.
Simple.
The right amount of power for the job being done is what’s needed.
Maybe more in some instances, maybe less in other instances.
There is a time to mod. Be it up the power or lower the power. And a time to leave well enough alone.
And that don’t take overnight to learn. But once you figure it out it will make you a happier person in the end. I know I am.
Are you quoting the Byrds or the Bible?
To every gun (mod, mod, mod)
There is more power (mod, mod, mod)
A gun for every purpose, under heaven
A time to target, a time to hunt
A time to pump, a time to break
A time to kill, a time to aim
A time to tune, a time to mod
Fused
Haha that was good. But yes the thought crossed my mind. 🙂
Mr. Gaylord:
Today’s post reminded me of one of your earlier posts, How to choose a PCP /blog/2006/04/how-to-choose-a-pcp/) that power should be appropriate for intended use of the rifle. Yours is one of those truism I stress new crew juniors when the want “more power” from their 10 meter rifles.
Respectfully,
Wm. Schooley
Rifle Coach
Crew 357
Chelsea, MI
Off topic
Reached out to a die hard airgunner today whilst servicing his ac. I told him to check out the daily blog and comments. He showed me his pride and joy a Daisy 853. He even let me shoot it once. Hopefully we hear from him
Air guns get more interesting to me as their power gets reduced. I’m still enamored of the HW30S. On the subject of appropriate power, I’m curious about the new rage in rimfire magnums. My favorite rifle company, Savage, has just introduced two semiauto magnum rimfires that can be accurate to 200 yards. Those are nice pieces of equipment. But just as there is no reason to turn an airgun into a rimfire, why turn a rimfire into a centerfire? There is already a tool for the job.
Fido3030, thanks for the info on the Winchester 92 which I had never heard of. I suppose that the only thing that can beat a genius is another genius. Apparently Browning designed a ton of lever action designs for Winchester. So, he was competing against his own rifles, and only the very best survived. What a colossus he was in designing Winchester’s guns, then switching to FN, and also designing many of the small arms of the United States for the World Wars.
The Winchester 73 is supposed to be the rifle that won the West. But I wonder (as part of my new interest in breech-loading single shots) if that wasn’t more true of the Springfield Trapdoor which was the army service rifle at the time.
Matt61
The Henry Rifle and the Winchester 1866 probably had more to do with “Winning the West” than the 1873. By the time it was in wide spread use, maybe 1875-76, the West was mostly won. The Trap Door did play a big role in it’s variations. It was a much better rifle after the ammo for it was improved with better cases. Some say the double barrel 12 and 10 gauge were the real winners of the West. It was used by most everyone.
Mike
Matt 61
A case could also be made for the buffalo rifle, especially the Sharps as “the Gun that Won the West.” They were used to almost wipe out the buffalo and force the Native Americans onto reservations or starve.
Browning patented a number of guns that he sold to Winchester but were never manufactured. They would have competed with other guns already being produced. The patents did serve as a wall to restrict what other companies could produce. Some of these designs are very interesting, for instance the Several “pull-apart” configurations. These were like a pump shotgun but the barrel pulled forward to load. Sounds silly but it made it possible to have a very short receiver in contrast to the conventional pump in which the receiver has to be longer than the cartridge. The pull-apart could be little longer than the barrel. I believe this design has been produced in Russia as a military fighting shotgun.
Fido3030
Matt 61
I too really enjoy Winchester rifles and the legacy of Mr Browning’s designs.
Those new rimfires are something huh? I tend to agree with you on the center fire vs rimfire though. The smaller calibers pretty much have the bases covered IMO. Especially the. 204 ruger. Need less power try the .22 hornet. Something different? there are a handful of others that fit in between there nicely.
The last time I checked I thought savage offered a bolt action chambered in the new rimfire that actually cocked on closing? Ill have to check out the new semi autos. I shot my first semi auto rifle the other day and enjoyed it. May get a cheap savage rimfire semi in 22lr. Savage are my favorite as well.
Slightly off topic the Henry catalog came today. I have always had a softspot for Henry. I have always coveted a golden boy with the octagonal barrel.
One day that hw30s will be in your hands. 😉
PH
I still got my Winchester 190 I got back in the early 70’s when I was a kid. Got it for Christmas when I was 10. Yes one of my best Christmas when I was young. That gun has seen more action than you could imagine throughout time out on the farm growing up. And I still shoot it today and it shoots as well now as it did back then.
And Savage. I have the bolt action 93 with the black conventional synthetic stock and stainless steel barrel in .22 and .17 hmr. Nice light weight guns and just love their accu-trigger. As far as cocking is concerned without going and getting them out and looking. Pretty sure the action is cocked when the bolt is pulled back not closed. And I think the new semi-auto 17hmr Savage cocks when closing. I don’t own one yet. So not positive about that.
And speaking of Savage I got a very good shooting Stevens 320 pump in 20 gage. All black gun. But has very little recoil with the corkscrew rotating action. Haven’t shot it for a while. But had it out for a bit for 4th of July shooting some clays. That was my 4th of July big boomers. 🙂
But yep those semi-auto’s are fun. If you want some fast action cheap pellet gun shooting you should get one of these. They have fairly decent velocity and are pretty accurate out to 40 yards. And they will empty the 12 shot rotary clip prwtty much as fast as you can pull the trigger. There modeled a after the Ruger 10/22. I got one converted to HPA. Very fun gun.
/product/crosman-1077-air-rifle?m=204
You are correct about the elimination of the Buffalo. Many Trap Door rifles were used for that purpose. Older ones could be had for a lot less than a Sharps Rifle or a new Remington Rolling Block.
Mike
Big Iron
Agree, and Civil War muzzle loading rifles also. Some were converted to shotguns.
Fido3030
FYI,
For anyone calling P.A., expect to wait. They are busy with new employees and employee training, etc., etc..
Once I got through though, all was good,… as usual.
Chris USA
I guess that happens. And man had to think. Order wise it’s been a long, long time since I called one in. I order online and use my phone or laptop pretty much always.
And while I’m at it a update on the Brodax co2 cartridge seal. The one I made worked for about 5 cartridges then wouldn’t seal right anymore. The seal material started deteriorating. Maybe to much oil being used with each new cartridge for the material?
But I did find a seal that is from Crosman that I think will work. It looks like the same parts as what I took out of the Brodax. Suppose to have them by Saturday or next week Monday.
Once I get them tryed in the Brodax I’ll let everybody know and give the part number if they work.
GF1,
Good luck. I do know that were really starting to get into it with “this and that” technique,…. on your way to getting a hand cannon. I say,…. full tear down. 😉
GF1,
On the above,….. ???,….. HUH? The brand, weight and length for 2 pellets are all there,….. what is the question?
Chris USA
Ok I see now. I missed where you said length.
Chris USA
Buisy at work tonight to. So cut my reply short.
But how consistent are they in length when you check a hand full.
Also is the outside diameter true when you measure around the diameter. In other words not egg shaped. And is the diameter at the front of the bullet the same as the back of the bullet.
That’s going to make a difference how it will shoot with the bullet design that the Grizzly has.
Im from the old school. If it aint broke don’t fix it
Well it’s here!
Kinda late for you B.B. I know your closing in on crunch time for the Friday blog so I will repost a few remarks tomorrow.
The Winchester 353 made it today. Mine is in .22 Cal and in fantastic condition. It turns 46yrs next month. This pistol is in as good of shape as my brand new hw30. The only flaws I can find are slight “smudge scuffs” (3) on the right hand of the pistol. I have looked at old auction listings and haven’t found a better looking pistol. A few as good. It seems the price jumps around quite a bit. The cheapest listing I can find was $40 more for a much poorer quality pistol. Some of the pistols in the same condition cost more than 3x than what I paid. Some of them were only $60 more in the condition that I have. I’m including only Winchester 353 both .177 and .22 Cals.
Anyway I’m super impressed with this pistol. Its everything I was hoping for. I’m having a heck of a time shooting right handed though!!! I was able to hit soda cans at 10yds. Arm and wrist got shaky fast though. The gun shoots kinda slow but i doubt it will ever matter. I probably wont ever shoot well enough right handed to get out past effective range.
B.B. your word is golden once again! I love this air pistol!
P.S. I was almost as excited with the box (pretty good condition) and the unopened tin of Winchester pellets included!
Punchin Holes,
Congratulations. It’s always good when an online purchase turns out that way.
Let’s hope she shoots, too.
B.B.
B.B.,
As I read your example above involving your Whiscombe, I found myself thinking about the Steel Dreams air rifle. The goal was to go supersonic with a lead .22 pellet (presumably a Hobby at 11.9 grains) with a springer. The Whiscombe does that and more, no?
That sorta GISS-in-reverse concept and execution is spectacular, a genuinely ingenious design.
Michael
Hi,
This is Mario Arvizu, form Mexico.
This is more an observation than a question but has a question inside. Before I start, I would like to aware to you about English is not my native language but Spanish; so, I’ll try to be clear using English language to express myself. I would like add that too, that even in Spanish, sometimes I try to ask something and at the end I asked another thing! So I apologize if this happens this time, although I promise I’ll work during this entire mail to avoid this occur.
Almost all my life I have shooting airguns; here in Mexico, gun laws are very restrictive and if any citizen want to own a gun, apart from all the paperwork he needs to provide to get a license to own a gun INSIDE (Only inside) of his home, the only calibers we can choose from (Legally) are .22 lr, .25 acp, .380 acp and .38 spl. Al other calibers are considered “Military Use Only”. That is why, If we want to shoot, the main option are airguns. Maybe that is the reason I love airguns so I have own a lot of models, brands and kinds of them (even the ones using a .22 Blank and a Pellet, which are considered “airguns” in this country, under the label of “Sporting guns”.) Ok, enough history, my point is:
I have noticed that, unless you want to hunt, the increased intervals of speed in a given caliber, are not relevant when they are less than 150 fps approx.
Airguns shooting from 360 to 560 fps, behaves almost the same for practical purposes (by “Practical” I mean grouping @ 10, 20 or 30 yds or just plinking to those distances, or even farther)
The 600 to 800 fps “category” of airguns behaves similar, too, among them. After that, I have noticed that, from 700 to 950 fps there is another “category” on airguns.
Beyond that, I haven’t enough experience with the same power plant (The only spring-piston rifle I have been shooting @1050-1100 fps on .177 , has absolutely different behavior than the .177 Benjamin Discovery once I had).
And here the question: Do you agree on this observations? Have you seen this on your vast experience shooting airguns? Have you seen any similar, or is just a matter of perception from my part? The only test I have done on this is to shoot cans from different distances with different guns and chronograph pellets and check effects on them.
Unfortunately, at this moment, the law, after I got married, becomes far more restrictive at home than in the country and I only can own Tree airguns!! So, I have been thinking on all this to keep the ones that I fell will “cover” all the velocities range.
At the end I chose to keep, form lower to faster:
Mendoza RM 450-L .177 caliber. This is kind of Air Ventury Bronco, with almost the same mechanism; Delightful to shoot! over all after I performed a “Tunning” by just deburring and polishing metals and Moly and graphite lubricating of parts. This covers the up to 530 fps Category.
Stoeger X-20 suppressor, “tuned” too, .22 (Crosman Premiers @ 706 fps avg.) Not absolutely silent but enough to don’t disturb neighbors.
Benjamin Marauder .22, just because I don’t want to get rid of such a great value gun.
A series of pistols (Crosman Vigilante, Crosman 1377 and Gamo P 900) To shoot between household shores.
Thanks and have a great one!
Mario,
Welcome to the blog.
Your English is fine — don’t worry about that. You write better than many for whom English is their native language.
I do agree with your observations, as far as they go. But here in the U.S., shooters are now trying to shoot at 100 yards and farther. For that, the higher velocities do work better, because of how long the pellet remains in the air when it travels slower.
I guess it all comes down to what you are trying to do with the pellet. Out to 30 yards and perhaps a little farther, yes, the velocity is not so important.
Thanks for taking the time to share your observations with us. Don’t be a stranger on this blog!
B.B.
Welcome to the blog Arvizu! You don’t have to post your thoughts on the article which matches them. You can post them on the current blog where all the readers can read it instead of only a few who are receiving notices of postings from old articles. Don’t be afraid to post even if it has nothing to do with the current subject.
I like your observations. Another consideration other than velocity is the weight of the projectile. A heavy 10 grain .177 moving at 550 fps behaves differently when compared to a 18 grain .22 also moving at 550 fps.
Your three rifles seem to cover every need. A low power plinker, a medium power all-around and a high power PCP for when you need to reach out very far.
I am very glad I live in a country with no such restrictions (only three rifles allowed?), I live in Asia, but if I were given the same problem I would probably make the same choices.