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Education / Training Sighting in a big bore airgun — the TexanSS: Part 2

Sighting in a big bore airgun — the TexanSS: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

TexanSS big bore air rifle from AirForce.

Part 1

  • For Aaron
  • First thing
  • Size matters
  • Look around for bullets
  • Setup
  • Why start at the low end?
  • What about the power you give up?
  • Physician — heal thyself!

I’m getting an increasing number of direct contacts from my web page because people apparently don’t want to ask their questions in front of this crowd. I hope that changes, because with all the readers we have, the answer is almost always here.

For Aaron

Today’s report is for reader Aaron who just got an AirForce TexanSS and isn’t satisfied with his groups. Fortunately for him I used to work at AirForce, so I know what he probably isn’t telling me and that helps me cut to the chase. How should you sight in a big bore air rifle that has adjustable power?

This report applies to smallbore air rifles, too. But they have pellets with established reputations for accuracy, so the problem is much better defined and easier to deal with. With big bores you are usually faced with selecting the right bullet to fit your rifle and then finding the right power adjustment for that bullet. All in all, this can take a long time — especially if you do not have a background with blackpowder weapons. And when I say black powder, I mean the real thing — not a gun you drop pellets of pre-measured powder into!

First thing

Before you do anything, first consider the powerplant you are sighting in. The TexanSS has a shorter barrel than the Texan, so the velocity has to be slower. With a slower velocity you want to use a shorter bullet that is easier to stabilize. Shorter bullets are lighter because they have less lead. The TexanSS will handle bullets weighing from 143 grains for a round ball to 350 grains for a long conical. I would start with a semi-wadcutter of around 200 grains.

If we were sighting in a Korean big bore that has about half the power of a TexanSS, try to start with a lighter bullet, if you can. But there is one other thing to consider before you buy any bullets — the size of the bore.

Size matters

As I have said very recently, size does matter. We saw it in the report on the .22 rimfire cartridge and again a couple days ago when I ranted in the report, Everything old is new again. The TexanSS bore size is not given on the Pyramyd AIR website, so I asked AirForce for the number. They told me it is 0.457-inches. That means a .457 or .458 bullet is ideal — with the .458 being slightly better. When I load blackpowder arms I try to use bullets that are a thousandth larger than the bore — unless I’m shooting round balls that are patched. Them I size 0.005-inch under the bore and use a 0.010-inch thick cloth patch that compresses on loading.

Also do not lubricate the bullets. At the low velocity a big bore achieves, the soft lead bullets are self-lubricating. Adding bullet lube just messes up your clean bore and detracts from accuracy.

Forget pellets! When you shoot at this power lever (above 250 foot-pounds) the real diabolo pellets are not right for the gun. They work okay in lower-powered big bores, but suffer when the power goes too high, because they don’t have the bearing surfaces to handle it.

Look around for bullets

There are many sources for lead bullets online. Look at as many of them as you can find, because you never know where the best bullet will come from. You want soft lead bullets — not hard-cast bullets. Soft lead bullets slip through the barrel with no lubrication and will give the best accuracy. Hard cast bullets will leave smears of lead on the inside of the barrel, forcing the need to clean the barrel more often.


Let’s now turn our attention to the rifle. The TexanSS is adjustable — not for power, as much as to tune the gun for each bullet you use. Yes, the tuner does adjust the power of the gun, but that isn’t it’s primary purpose for being there. It’s to tune the gun to a specific bullet.

The rifle comes from the factory with the adjuster set up high, so I dial it back to as low as it will go. I start at the low end of the power band and work up. I do the same with centerfire ammunition when I reload. Often the most accurate load is near the maximum recommended load, but sometimes it isn’t. My advice is to start at the low end and work up.

With lighter bullets, though, the Texan likes to have more tension on the hammer. Since I start with bullets that weigh around 200 grains (which is light for a .45-caliber bullet) I start around the middle of the adjustment range or a little more.

TexanSS cocking lever
The Texan and TexanSS have a long cocking lever on the right side of the action. This reduces the effort to cock. To access the power adjuster on the left side of the action, the cocking lever must be forward like this.

TexanSS power adjustment
The power adjustment wheel is turned by pushing the holes (arrow) up for less power and down for more. The lines are for general reference. For 200-grain bullets I usually begin about here, which is over half power.

Why start at the low end?

The low end is where you most often find the best accuracy. When I tested the Texan I got the best accuracy with all but the lightest bullets when the gun was set below the halfway point.

Texan 50-yard group
This 50-yard group from the Texan measured 0.456-inches between centers!

What about the power you give up?

Power without accuracy is meaningless, so if you don’t have accuracy you give up nothing. You may “only” get 275 foot-pounds with the most accurate bullet. That’s 125 foot-pounds less than the 400 promised by AirForce, and it bothers some shooters. They think they are losing something they ought to get. But what if they could put 6 bullets into 1.5-inches at 100 yards like I did with the Texan?

Texan 100-yard group
A 100-yard six-shot group with a Texan. Subtract 0.457 from 1.964 and you get 1.507-inches between centers!

Physician — heal thyself!

I told Aaron that I hadn’t gotten as far as testing the TexanSS for accuracy yet. I have been stymied by unusual winter weather here in Texas. But I am still on the job and we will soon see what I can get from the test rifle.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

110 thoughts on “Sighting in a big bore airgun — the TexanSS: Part 2”

  1. B.B.,
    I was tempted to not post first again but your stellar Texan groups forced my hand

    I suspect since the air reservoir is the butstock there is no effect on POI as there is on most other big bores with it’s under barrel location as well as direct connection with barrel band when not “Free Floated.”

    As an unredeemable Quackenbush owner I will probably not ever own an Air Force Airgun; but one never knows when money to burn will come my way.
    In Part 1 Michael wondered about power adjusters on big bores. Dennis has shared his opinion on power adjusters and I suspect you already “remember” what his opinion is so you know he holds to his word delivering his airguns sans power adjusters almost without fail. The rest of your readers may not know his position so I’ll share what I understand it to be: “Most owners don’t understand what a power adjuster’s limitations are and do not “get” what a tuned Big Bore is meant to do.” To prove the rule, I own two Quackenbush pistols supplied with power adjusters that were made by him. I don’t change them unless I want to go to the range and spend a few hours setting up for a new bullet…with no certainty that it will perform as I had hoped. When going hunting i decide the target/game requirements; then I simply choose the DAQ rifle or pistol which is optimized for a fairly tight range bullet weight/length by twist rate, valve size, hammer weight, action length, spring rate (both hammer and valve) fill pressure and finally transfer port diameter that fills the bill. All of them having been tested extensively at the range with chronograph (still working on the DAQ .58 cal. Short Rifle.) As an aside, I will add my next purchase is going to be a Lab Radar to replace my chrony. I think it will make my range time go down dramatically and plot my external ballistics far better than I can/do.
    But I will be reading closely this entire series on the Texan SS to deep mine some more of your “remembering” on big bore information.

    Thank you for all you have done for airgunning/shooting, do currently, and will do in the future.


    • shootski,

      “Gone With The Wind” it wasn’t, but that was the best explanation of how to live with adjustable power I have ever read. I couldn’t agree more.

      I hope for Aaron’s sake that I can do the same with the TexanSS.


      • BB,
        This is the first time i get into the blog eventhough i am a long-silent reader and finally got my first air rifle last week.
        Thanks BB for your informative blog, just my humble request if you could consider a fx crown as your next review.


    • Shootski,

      I agree with BB. You have stated quite well what many need to keep in mind, not just with airguns, but with firearms, archery, slingshots, etc. All the power in the world is useless if you miss the shot.

  2. “What good is 500+ FPE if you can’t hit what you are shooting at?”

    This is what is so wrong with the manufacturers’ velocity race. I know they are just feeding the supposed demand of the consumer. As we were talking about the other day with the .22 rimfire ammunition and the velocity race with it. My experience has taught me that except on very rare occasions, standard velocity .22LR is the most accurate rounds for most rifles. I do think people are starting to figure that out. I am starting to see more and more standard velocity .22LR available.

  3. B.B.,

    I am happy to hear again that there are many readers of the blog, but saddened to read that many are reluctant to post questions and comments. All readers should feel entirely welcome to chime in about air guns and powder burners alike. We “long-timers” eagerly welcome new commenters. Public questions and responses are the lifeblood of a hobby, and the exchange of ideas and knowledge is always helpful to all of us.


    • BB, Michael, Chris and fellow blog readers & posters,
      Good evening to you all. I have been reading for a while and finally decided to post. I did contact BB directly because there was no way to start a new thread and I didn’t know how to broach a new subject on here. I have been around blogs for a long time, and no where else have I seen a group so willing to allow off topic full length conversations in the middle of a completely unrelated initial post. Looking at this thread alone, we started off talking about tuning a Big Bore, but there are comments about copper bullets for powder burners, bowling, set screws for gas tubes, and a myriad of other things. I felt the TexanSS accuracy info about my gun didn’t belong in another topic and high jacking topics on other boards gets you banned, so I waited. If this group is so open to new members and their questions, perhaps there could be a sticky post explaining the rules here.
      My full post about issues with my gun are in part 3 of the evaluation. I thought that was where it belonged. Had I known better, I would have asked two weeks ago. Might have saved me a bunch of wasted bullets.
      Thanks for your willingness to help out a newbie with such kindness,

      • Aaron,

        Welcome to the Comments! One of the things I like about this blog is that it is relaxed and not uptight. I suspect most tangents in the comment section are still somewhat related to air gunning, such as basic machining, tool tips, and so forth. Sometimes things go off on a side track about history and historical examples of vaguely air-gun related stuff (catapults, blow-guns, firearms, artillery, metallurgy, aerodynamics, etc.).

        It is a family-friendly place, so subject matter and language . . . well, I can probably stop right there. Also this a friendly place overall, so avoid personal slights. I do try periodically to remind myself that a large percentage of readers are a) not from/in the U.S, b) have a wide range of political views, c) have a wide range of knowledge, interests and expertise, and d) are interested in air guns for a variety of reasons, such as hunting, sport, casual plinking, and/or collecting.

        Above all I have a belief in the following: “There are no stupid questions,” “Everyone is a beginner at first,” “Everyone out there knows a lot more than I do about a lot of subjects,” and “Everyone always has much to learn from the knowledge and experience of everyone else.”

        I am reminded of the last two of those just about every time I read this blog, and especially so when someone adds a comment that is essentially a detailed, in-depth report in itself. There are folks here whose knowledge is staggering. B.B. is obviously one of those, but he also is among the most humble of us, often expressing his desire to learn new things about airgunning and learn in general.

        Aaron, it is great to read your thoughts about the comments. Your perspective is fresh and insightful. And again, welcome! :^)


  4. BB,

    I think I recently had the message you’re preachin’ driven home to me with my .22 caliber stormrider. I noticed one day that if I didn’t fill it very full I could get sub 1″ groups at 35 yards with a few pellets, though I only got 5 or 6 shots with a 20+ fps extreme spread. I filled the gun to that pressure inside my basement and chronographed it and found it averaged 750 fps at that pressure using the most promising pellet. Then I set about trying to get that performance over a longer string of shots by changing the transfer port size and hammer spring tension. They aren’t adjustable on my gun as they are on the Texan series of guns so I had to solder the orifice closed then experiment with drilling gradually larger holes through the solder and shortening the spring until I eventually have the gun shooting 2 1/2 mags at 750 fps average with a 18 fps extreme spread. That suits my needs. Now I have to shoot it outdoors I the weather will ever cooperate. This was not exactly the same as what you were explaining but it seems similar.

    • Halfstep
      I’m not a tuner yet but this was very interesting. What do you use to cover the fill probe hole? For now I have a black garbage bag cut into a square using a rubber band to hold it.

      • Bill
        I have a male foster fitting that I use an automotive vacuum cap to cover and I am guessing that the same cap could be put in the fill hole to seal it off from the elements. Also learned that the cap on a Maurader bolt handle fits over the female foster hose end to keep dirt out.

      • Buckaroo,

        I don’t cover it with anything right now. I’m on the lookout for a pill bottle or lid or something of that nature that will slip over the the air tube snugly but I haven’t found one yet. I hasn’t been a big concern to me up to this point because I thought there might be a mesh or something inside the fill port, but I know now that there isn’t. I still won’t lose a lot of sleep over it being uncovered since I leave the unprotected probe sticking out of the Foster fitting on my filling tank or hand pump anyway. I’m not dragging it through the woods or anything like that. Now that I think about it I may make a dummy probe to stick in the fill hole to plug it. If I devise or find a solution I will post it here.

        I can’t remember if I have read your impression of the stormrider. Wadda ya think of it?


        • Halfstep
          I think the stormrider is going to work out fine for me which is hunting and a few targets . I didn’t get my hopes up knowing it was a starter pcp but it’s accurate magazine has smoothed out it was a little rough . It still
          has a hard time pushing the bolt forward like some pellets get caught I don’t use the bolt handle then rather push on the back of it seems to work. I find it easy to fill with a hand pump so far I’m happy with it.

      • Chris U,

        When it came time to do it all I could think of was, ” I don’t recall anyone talking about doing this. There is usually a reason for that. Am I about to mess up? ” Then I thought, “I hate this gun. If I don’t find a way to make it shoot better I’m likely to use the barrel as a pry bar and the stock for fire wood so here goes.” The solder got a little out of control a one point but I eventually reined it in and it worked in the end. I guess slowing a smallbore PCP is just not sought after that often, hence the lack of technical tips.

        • Halfstep,

          ” I don’t recall anyone talking about doing this. There is usually a reason for that. Am I about to mess up? ”

          Hey, that does ring a “vague” bell! 😉

          (I think that is correct usage of quotation marks?) If not,… oh well.

          • Chris,

            The quote marks look fine to me! :^)

            Halfstep, that is some seriously delicate surgery you thought up and performed. And I am like you regarding PCPs. I desire a low-powered, small caliber PCP. Add to that a freakishly high shot count and all of the other things I look for in most air rifles (lightweight, easy-cocking, quiet, affordable, accurate, and “well-triggered”). I’ve commented before that what the world needs is a PCP equivalent of the Diana Model 27.


    • Geo,

      I think they are pretty cool looking. Well,… that is until they started putting shrouds on them. But hey,… if you want it quieter, that is what you have to do.

      • Chris
        Here’s the scope that will be perched atop the TX200. I have read every past blog on the TX200 and realize now how little I knew about it,I’m super stoked. I look at the pictures at least 3 times every day. I’m going to reread the blogs one more time this weekend. This will be my fourth left handed gun, Remington 700 in.223, 1187, 870 slug gun, Marauder and now a TX200. Well I count my 2240 as a lefty too so that makes 5 total.

        • Carl,

          Very nice. You may have caught a recent comment I made on the wheel. The set screws, screw directly into/onto a rubber ring. I found that a very small piece of metal between the rubber and the housing (for the set screw to bear down upon) made a big difference.

          All packing material is ready and I can assure you it will be packed over and above any standards. Box in box,… of course. I will pack it and it will ship in the AM Fri.. I will e-mail you with a tracking # and other info.. UPS is the plan now.

          • Chris
            thank you I have no doubt it will be packed well and thanks for the tip about the wheel. And thanks for hooking me up with one of the finest spring guns made, my appreciation for which is greatly enhanced knowing I got it from you my friend!

            • Carl,

              Since I do not have a gun rack, safe or anything else, the TX200 and LGU reside on my couch, on a towel, that I rarely ever sit on. They both get a periodic application of Ballistol and shot on occasion. The TX actually out shot the LGU the last time out. They both run neck to neck, but with the TX making more power, the TX is probably a bit more hold sensitive.

              You will like it. I use 18.13 JSB’s in the TX by the way. The LGU seems to like the 15.89’s better, but heck,.. most times it is draw.

              • Chris
                great I have half a tin of JSB 18.3s so I’m good there, I do have all the head sizes in the 14.6 FTT pellets and I always play with those.
                I don’t know if you know but I was bidding on a left hand FWB 300s online and when it got to 700 I dropped it thinking hey for this I can get a TX200. Look at me now!

                • Carl,

                  That is interesting. I swear that Gunfun1 said that FWB 300’s could be had for 300-ish. Sounds to me like you made the right decision. That is something too about auctions,.. on line or in person,… you always wonder if there is somebody in the crowd driving up the price on purpose?,.. just to drop out at the last moment.

                  • Yeah I thought it would go high with the left hand stock. But I would still like to get one, GF1 and R.R. Seem to really like them, but they are just about all right handed.

                    • Coduece
                      I got both of my 300’s from RidgeRunner. He even had a extra left hand stock with them when I got them from him.

                      I only have one of them now that’s been modded by me. It’s a very, very accurate gun. But it shows wear on the stock. I call it my ugly duckling that’s a swan on the inside.

                      And you know you could get a right hand 300 and keep your eye out for a left hand stock and put it on instead of the right hand stock.

                      If you do that keep the right hand stock because if you decide to sell it you can sell it to either a left hand or right hand shooter.

        • Ok initial thoughts the bubble seems easy enough to see I don’t know what everyone is griping about in the reviews. The reticle lines appear to be fine enough for precise aiming. The flip caps have a thumb tab on each side, ambi very nice. The magnification ring is pretty tight. The turret clicks are distinct and audible. It’s big bigger than I thought. Eye relief seem to be pretty forgiving just looking through it hand held at 16 x. What’s not to like nothing! And thank you P.A. For timely delivery a great price and accurate description.

        • Coduece
          Be sure to check out the bubble level within the scope. There were some problems with it not being centered properly. It was kind of obvious. They may have corrected the problem by now.
          Bob M

        • Carl,

          I found all of the mounting info. I had on the TX. The scope was 3-12×44 UTG. I had a drooper mount on it, not because it droops, but rather the extra clamping on the 11mm rail. It is one piece. DNT06 UTG. Pict. rail on top. That also insures the scope elevation will stay below center. The rings were UTG (lows). RGWM-30L4 and says on the box they will work with scopes up to a 48mm bell. Universal P/W, so they will work and did work just fine. The bell was 2-3mm from barrel with front cap on.

          My recommendation would be to get the DNT06 and (medium) rings since you are putting a 56mm on it. That way you are well within any safe elevation, got a (ton) of 11mm clamping with a stop to boot and have the more secure P/W mounting up top. Try what you got, but that is what I would go with. I tried many set ups and that was the best all around and gave me everything I wanted.

  5. B.B.
    Here in Iowa we got 14 in of snow in the last week so my shooting stopped for awhile and to cold with my small heater in the garage range. Some day I’ll move up to a big bore but this grasshopper has much to learn my plans are to turn my stormrider into a squirrel hunting machine I have it scoped with a bug buster it seems very promising.
    I still have some chrono tests which leads me to question it seems somehow I’m missing some of my diffusers for my f1 chrono would carboard or anything else make a good fix ? I know I could buy replacements but they will have to wait for awhile. Thank you

    • Buckaroo,
      I would recommend getting LED bands instead of difusers, especially for use indoors. Not only they work independent of ambient light but the strong signal reduces the number of false readings. At least, that has been my experience first with an old Chrony (cardboard windows) and more recently with a newer unit.

    • Buckaroo,

      In the past I have had good luck on bright sunny days with 2″ or 3″ wide strips of clear ( translucent ) milk bottle plastic. I have read that tilting the screens over on their side some helps in “blue sky” conditions as well. As soon as you can afford it, get lighted screens for your unit. You won’t be sorry.

  6. Bill,

    If you do shoot in direct sunlight, use something that is translucent not solid. Also, if you are shooting indoors, make sure you are using incandescent lights. Fluorescent lights flicker too much and tend to mess up your chronograph.


  7. On the subject of power regulation, I should mention that blog reader Derrick has solved my problem of the moving set screw in my M1 Garand gas tube whose function is not unlike that of the adjustable power in the Texan. My precise screw settings for different loads are largely for naught if the screw moves around. ChrisUSA, while blue loctite might hold the screw in place, changing the settings even between sessions would be a hassle. Changing within a session for the two different loads I shoot is not practical. Eventually, I suspect that the loctite would accumulate and gum up the tube that holds the screw. Derrick’s solution is to put another set screw on top of the first one. I thought at first that this would only keep the first screw from backing out but not backing in. But, Derrick pointed out that the pressure applied by the external screw would keep the other one from moving in either direction. Brilliant. Derrick said that this solution has been around for a long time. But it’s the first I’ve heard of it, and maybe it will be useful to others.

    Michael, my interpretation of the cartoon was the opposite of discretion. It looks like the small cowboy is provoking the big one in a suicidal way.

    Bob M, it occurs to me that there are different solutions for you without going to guns. You can rig up floodlights and motion sensors to surround your house. That way, when one goes off, you can retreat to your safe room and activate a loudspeaker which can announce that the police are on the way. When venturing outside of your place, you might be proactive in analyzing the threat level. A self-defense expert says that criminals mimic the behavior of predator animals. They operate on the principle of cutting the weak out of the herd, inflicting maximum damage with minimal risk to themselves. One way of doing this is hunting on the borders of public spaces, such as parking structures. You have a lot of people moving to and fro but they are isolated without a lot of observers. Criminals also lurk around ATMs which function like watering holes. Interesting. In these spaces, your threat level goes higher. If your environment is sufficiently dangerous, you might want to use a bullet proof vest. I read about a type in a novel that fits comfortably under your clothes, and it turns out that they actually exist. My brother is a high school teacher, and after a recent mass shooting in his region, I tried to get him to wear one. He said that doing so was too depressing, but I might suggest it again.


    • Matt
      Thanks for the follow up.
      All that motion sensor stuff works a little to well. I have some and have managed to catch hordes of invading and murderous kitty cats, rabbits, rats, birds, stray pets, raccoons and coyotes but it’s those people claiming to be lost and trying to find a certain address that are obviously the dangerous ones 😉

      For years I had phantom alerts at night. Some right in front of me and unseen and then it hit me… literally! Bats ! Tree limbs blowing in the wind will also set them off.

      I live on a little over three fenced in acres, in the back county of San Diego with BLM land all around. Everyone monitors strangers and pass on the info. The occasional shotgun blast, or dozens of barking dogs will alert you. Rattle snakes are a bigger problem than human intruders, but they are not armed !

      Everyone living here is pretty vigilant when it comes to observing things and most roads are privet property and dead ends. All that being said Illegals are still found wondering around and we just need to be prepared because it could be dangerous. They can get desperate.

      • Bob M,

        I envy you. From what I have learned recently, San Diego has as close to perfect weather year round as you can find in North America. My cousin was stationed at Camp Pendleton, which I believe is nearby, and he was crazy about the locale. I went to the Salton Sea, which I believe is also nearby, when I was 14. It was May, as I recall, and the weather was just great and that was without an ocean breeze,as I recall. All that atmosphere attracts people, though and that makes places like that too expensive for an ol’ Kentucky boy. Maybe I should join the Marines. 😉

        • Halfstep
          Don’t believe everything you hear about San Diego. Working outside at the airport in winter I actually had to use long-sleeved shirts 🙂
          We have the occasional days of short lived snow and sub 32* temps some years but I live above 2,000 ft. We just had some 90* days in Jan. It really is nice, with costal winds cooling off the nights.

          It is hard to distinguish between the four seasons from day to day.

          What’s really nice though is being able to go to the desert, forested mountains, the beaches or the big city and tourist attractions in the same day !
          It is costly and if you do not take advantage of all the outdoor activities this wonderful weather permits you are wasting your money.
          We are in a long drought period now however and it’s having a noticeable effect on the greenery.

    • Matt61,

      I feel I should offer some advice that may or may not be helpful. If your lock screw is a socket head set screw you must be careful not to lock it down on the bottom one too tightly or you can deform the hex hole to the point that a Allen wrench won’t go into it any longer and that usually always becomes a serious problem to deal with. Set screws come in various configurations as regards their end. They are usually smooth cupped or serrated cupped, neither of which are the best for locking down another set screw because they cut and deform as I mentioned. A flat nosed set screw or one that has been ground flat by you is a very safe way to double up and can be tightened more without fear of damage. If you were aware already just ignore me but I have messed up my share and have had to fix many many more that others messed up and it sucks ! 😉

    • Matt61,

      That “gumming” can be your friend. The 2 set screw idea is better, but more work. The M-rod uses that 2 screw set up for the air restrictor port adjustment.


  8. B.B.
    I have reread your recent Chronograph blog, “Why to Own….) and it pretty much covered the WHY.
    Perhaps it is time to do a tutorial on HOW, WHERE to use a Chronograph “Hands On” and WHAT else can/is used to work on gun set-up, ammunition choice effect on internal balistics, external ballistics and target results.

    I’m certain you can pull together the Chronograph blog simply by “cut and paste” of all your writings or by just putting on your “Remembering Cap.”

    Start writing the book now on all the rest Mr. Gaylord; your audience needs and wants it as well as many other shooters.


      • B.B,

        First off let me say I’m not confused on Chronograph use I’m an avid user manual user. I’m certain I have more that I will eventually learn about their uses from others or some future personal experience.

        The blog I was asking for is to help what I see as “limited use” by my fellow shooters to typically just muzzle velocity. The other goad to my post is how many readers post comments similar to ones in this very thread about sky screens, no sky screens, opaque, translucent, LEDarrays to name just a few.

        Down range Chronograph use is minimal although a vital step to determine BC values as you no doubt “remember.” I understand the issue of putting a round right through them is painfully embarrassing and costs money; there are ways to provide them some protection. My post happened before many of the posts that currently surround it so we lost the context of my post positioning. If you don’t see a need then I’ll just keep reading about external and terminal balistics and what’s available to help predict and know what my rounds are doing once it gets past the Chronograph measuring muzzle velocity (or wad/gas cloud velocity. Hope that clears it up a little?

        I also need to warn you that I’m writing in my second language so sometimes my English usage is labored.


  9. BB,
    I enjoyed yesterday’s blog on using BB action pistols for training.

    When I carried a 1911 I used to use my 22 lr Colt conversion kit more than the 45 top end.
    I have some trouble with flenching and shooting the rimfire for awhile was good for overcoming that.
    Also, it was a lot cheaper to shoot.

    I always shoot two handed Modified Weaver because that was drilled into me 30 years ago in a couple of classes I took at Texas Pistol Academy. Shortly after that they switched to Isosceles but I cannot change. I tried to change for IPSC but under stress I go to Modified Weaver.

    I now carry a Glock 27. Have you reviewed or know of a good Glock BB pistol?


    David Enoch

  10. Today I did some more testing with my Crosman 101 I have with the Maximus barrel. The gun seemed to be shooting harder than when I first started shooting it. I decided to run another set of pumps vs velocity to check how the gun is doing. To my surprise It came out similar to what it was earlier, so much for my memory. Below is a plot comparing the velocity vs pumps for the previous Crosman Premiers 14.3 gr and a new set using the H&N FTT 14.66 gr. The one difference is the H&N FTT are the ones with a 5.55 mm diameter. I can tell they load much tighter than the Crosman Premiers.

    I started off indoors but my Chrony was not cooperating even though I have used the same setup many times before. The first two shots were good and then nothing but errors for the next 5 shots. That was frustrating. I had read todays blog so I decided to move outside without the diffusers and also shoot at a target to see what happens with each shot starting with 3 pumps and going up to 12 pumps. 12 pumps is more than I like to put in the old girl but a little sacrifice for some data seemed ok. The Chrony worked flawlessly outside in the shade pointed at the blue sky.

    I shot a 10 shot group at 25 yards earlier in the week I got 10 shots in 0.75 inches with 9 shots in 0.49 inches with H&N FTT 5.55 mm pellets. That compares to the 0.49 inches I got with the H&N pellets with a 5 shot group earlier. Both groups have a horizontal spread with one pellet low on the 10 shot group taking it to 0.75 inches.

    I stated before that I needed to move the sight over 0.001 inches to the right. As soon as I sat down with the gun I realized that did not sound right so I went back and wrote down the numbers and it is more like .01 inches. Take .5 inches off at target 75 feet away times sight length 1.35 feet =.009 inches. You can convert everything to feet or inches but it all works out the same in the end if you use target distance in the same units as the distance between sights. The sight movement will come out in the same units as used in the group offset at the target. I did use a hammer to move the sight but now in the way I originally thought about. I took the sight off the gun and set it against a 90 degree edge on my anvil and tried to take out some of the bent in the vertical leg on the sight. I don’t think it made much difference I still had to move the peep sight over to the right and may have gone too much. The wind was blowing about 5 mph with 15 mph gusts so I will wait for a calm day to shoot some targets before moving the sights again.

    Below is a graph of the difference between the two sets of pumps vs velocity.


      • Halfstep,

        I used an old version of Microsoft Excel, I will send you a copy of the spreadsheet if you would like. Getting it into a jpg file is a little bit of a hassle.


        • Don,

          I use a 2010 “Starter” version of Excel. I was going to suggest changing the high and low limits on your graph so that you can see more differentiation between the two pellet types. The default always starts with 0 at the bottom of the vertical axis instead of what the actual low shot is. And I seldom use the ” Major Unit ” setting that the software assigns( space between the horizontal bars) as it is usually too coarse. You would Set the low limit on your graph to 350 and the high limit to 700 and maybe 25 fps as the Major Unit, for instance, and the two lines would stand out from each other more. I’m only suggesting this because I made many graphs that just didn’t depict things like I had hoped. Then I learned that I had control of these parameters and I started making graphs that illustrated the data better. Then I had to go back and reformat all my earlier graphs.

          As for getting a JPG file, I just hit [Shift] [PrtScn] and take a screen grab of the graph while I have it displayed in Excel. Then I open it with Paint and crop it. I keep Paint pinned to the Quick Launch bar at the bottom of my screen and it has been the handiest tip I have ever found for Windows.

          • Halfstep,

            Those are good recommendations. I lost my jpg printer a while back need to look for a new one. I have been printing to a pdf file but then load it in Photoshop and save in a jpg. I will give the screen capture a go.

            I just was lazy on setting the axis limits will do better next time.


            • Don,

              They’re your graphs. Don’t pay any attention to me. Set them up the way that suits you. I wasn’t being critical, it’s just that I was like a little kid with a new toy when I learned that I could set axis limits. It fit in with what I was doing, and I wanted you to have that option if you weren’t aware already. Now I just need to learn that most people already know computer stuff better than me. 🙂

  11. Below is a scan of the target showing the pellets from 3 pumps to 12 pumps. I shot twice with 12 pumps to see if it varied much. The two muzzle velocities I measured were both 676 fps. So there is 11 shots on the target. The wind was blowing with gusts up to 15 mph not sure how much that changed the group but it did not help. The first two pellets were easy to keep track of but I lost track after that. I wish I would have walked out to the target between shots to mark each one but I did not think of it in time. Or I just got lazy! Here is the Target.


    • Don,

      I have trouble remembering who has what terrific idea here from one day to the next, but someone posted ( maybe he will chime in) a target that was designed to have one single shot fired at each target. That would enable you to keep track of where each individual shot goes, if that is your goal. Measure from the center of the bull to the two outlying holes and add them and you have your group. You have to be more active from the neck up but you can continue to be lazy from the hips down. 🙂

      • Don,

        On the chrony,.. I use a 500W Halogen aimed at a white ceiling, indoors and no sun screens. It works great. I do believe that BB uses something similar for his indoor chrony work.

        • Yep I have the high watt light but my ceiling in the workshop is composed of much lkasjdf;laskjf stored in the rafters. So not a good background. I have used the same setup many times, I just did not feel like figuring out what was wrong. Outside almost always works good. And I can shoot at a target more than 3 yards away. I plan on replacing all of my shop lights with LED in the future, not so much for the Chrony but because I like the light better when working on stuff. Now I just turn of the florescent lights when using the Chrony.


      • Halfstep,

        That was Vana2, Hank put that together. I have used it and love the way it works. If I do this again I might use that target. It is not set up for a large spread/group size though.


        • GF1
          Good to know that the left hand stocks are out there, it took every ounce of restraint not to hit you up on your fwb but one gun at a time. However it’s always tempting when you have an opportunity to get something from a mentors arsenal. TY

          • Coduece
            I let this 300 get away once. I really shouldn’t even think about letting it happen again. I did miss it when it was gone. Like I said it isn’t the prettiest duck in the pond. But it sure has what it takes inside. I really have kept from refinishing it by the reactions I get when people see it. Then see how well it shoots.

            Oh and you probably don’t know it but I also owned the 46e that RidgeRunner has and the LGU that Chris has. Will have to say I liked that LGU also.

            But anyway I think you’ll enjoy that Tx for some time to come. Oh and not only that they are great in workmanship. But they also are easy to disassemble. I switched mine around on tunes a couple different ways when I had them. But I also kept my stock components so I could easily return it to the way it came from the factory.

            And of course will be waiting for a update on how you like your Tx when you get it.

            • GF1,

              If you feel that way about the gun, don’t get rid of it. I once sold the R1 I wrote the book about and my Whiscombe. I had to sell both because we were losing money with “The Airgun Letter.” I got them back several years later and now I will hold onto them.


              • BB
                I know. I done it in the past with muscle cars and regret it.

                I don’t know why I can’t learn that lesson. But I really do need to get on track with that.

                I still have the HW30s and untouched I may add. I’m learning I suppose. Maybe a little anyway. 🙂

    • Don,

      Or,.. just shoot at a (different) bull each time? You could easily put 12 on an 8 1/2″ x 11″ sheet of paper. That would show the progression/change very clearly.

      • Chris,

        Using the peep sight I need a large bullseye to see. I have been using 11″ by 17″ paper with the 2 inch stickers. I don’t like the shoot and see so much but that was all I had today for that target. The first shot hit about 6 inches low, that was why I only had one target on the paper. Normally I get about 6 – 2 inch stick on targets on the 11 x 17 paper. Shooting with a scope I use a 1 inch or smaller bullseye. The target Vana2 developed is perfect for 10 shot sets with one shot per bullseye. I think it has 8 or 10 sets of 10 shots per target.

        I hope I do not sound gruff, I always appreciate your and everyone’s responses. Just trying to explain why I did something the way I did to make it more clear it is not meant as a rebuttal.

        Thanks for the suggestions.


        • Don,

          No offense taken here on my end. 🙂 I appreciate the freedom we all have here to discuss things in a civilized manner and consider other people’s point of views on a particular topic. I had not thought about the peeps. Yes, that would change things up a bit. I do not have anything with peeps that I can shoot at 25 yards. I would like to try though. I do think that 25 yards is about the practical limit on peeps though, but I have nothing to base that on from any personal, hands on experience.

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