Benjamin 397 Variable Pump Air Rifle: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Benjamin 397
The new Benjamin 397.

Part 1
Part 2

This report covers:

  • FX radar chronograph
  • The test
  • Sight-in
  • Premier Lights
  • Premier Heavys
  • Trigger
  • RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle
  • JSB Exact Heavy
  • Stop the train!
  • Adjusted sights
  • Second group
  • What about the paint?
  • Discussion
  • Summary

Today we start looking at the accuracy of this new Benjamin 397 multi-pump rifle. I say “start” advisedly, because I have a feeling we are going to spend some time with this one. You will too, after you read this report.

FX radar chronograph

Yesterday when I first looked at the FX Radar Pocket Wireless chronograph I figured it would be a problem getting it to work with a multi-pump like the 397. Well it is and so far I am unsuccessful. I figured if I laid it on the shooting bench in front of the rifle and pointed at the target but also underneath the rifle, because the 397 was on a sandbag, it would “look” downrange and see the pellet flying. No such luck. The chrono was in line with the rifle’s barrel (to within about one inch of either side — I couldn’t see it) and about 8 inches below the muzzle. But my smart phone remained quiet for maybe five or six shots.

I then turned the chronograph off and continued shooting the rifle because that was the focus of this report. It seems that if I could pump the rifle and load it, then quickly attach the chrono, but not on top because that’s where the sights are, it could work. I need a way to mount it to the barrel quickly because the current rubber band method is cumbersome unless you only want to get one shot. Maybe attach it to a tripod and shoot over it? This is more of a note to myself, because I intend to keep trying.

The test

I shot the 397 off a sandbag rest with the rifle rested directly on the bag. I shot from 10 meters. The groups were five shots due to the slowness of preparing the pneumatic powerplant. Every shot was on four pumps. The open sights that came on the rifle were used.

Sight-in

I sighted in with the Crosman Premier Light pellet. Shot one landed low on the paper and to the right of the bull. I adjusted it higher (by going the wrong way) and shot two missed the paper altogether. Then I figured out how to adjust the sights and got on target (that’s a pellet hitting inside the bull) in 6 more shots. I left the sights where they were for the remainder of the test. I’m shooting pellets that are both light and heavy and I can accept changes in the point of impact — as long as they land reasonably close to the aim point.

Premier Lights

The first target was shot with Crosman Premier Light domed pellets. I checked to make sure the first shot landed in the bull and didn’t look again until all five shots had been fired. When I looked I saw a vertical group, which probably means I’m not getting the elevation right. If I can mount a peep sight on the rifle, that should take care of it.

The group measures 0.673-inches between centers at 10 meters. That’s not too bad.

397 Premier Light group
The Benjamin 397 put 5 Crosman Premier Light pellets into 0.673-inches at 10 meters on 4 pumps.

Premier Heavys

Next to be tried were five Crosman Premiers Heavy domes. The first shot was a 10 and I got excited. When the shooting was over I saw another vertical group measuring 0.825-inches between centers. It’s nicely centered in the black, side-to-side, but it’s very vertical.

397 Premier Heavy group
Five Crosman Premier Heavy pellets made this 0.825-inch group at 10 meters.

Trigger

I want to report that the trigger of the test rifle is very repeatable and easy to work with. It is on the heavy side, but the stage two break is clean. That’s what matters the most to me when shooting for accuracy.

RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle

Next up were five RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle wadcutters. I knew these would be easy to measure because they cut such clean sharp holes. The first shot was in the black at 11 o’clock so I shot the rest without looking. Five shots made a group that measures 0.97-inches at 10 meters. It looks like the Meisterkugeln Rifle pellet is not for this 397!

397 Meisterkugeln Rifle group
The 397 put five RWS Meisterkugeln Rifle pellets into a 0.97-inch group at 10 meters. This doesn’t look like a good pellet for this 397.

JSB Exact Heavy

Next to be tried in the Benjamin 397 was the JSB Exact Heavy, a 10.34-grain dome. I saw the first pellet go high and left of the bull, but it was close enough, so I fired four more with out looking. Then I looked and — OH, MY! Five pellets were in 0.261-inches at 10 meters! At the time I had no way of knowing the exact size of the group and I thought it could be worthy of a trime (a group smaller than 0.20-inches between centers). But when I took pictures for the blog I measured it and discovered that it wasn’t quite that small. But — GOLLY!

397 JSB Heavy group1
The Benjamin 397 put five JSB Exact Heavy pellets into this 0.261-inch group at 10 meters.

Stop the train!

After seeing this group I changed my test plan. I had planned to shoot a group of RWS Superpoints next, but instead I wanted to see how I did with a second group of these JSBs.

Adjusted sights

Now that I had a really good pellet it was time to adjust the sights for it. I moved them down and to the right and shot a second group

Second group

Could I do it again? I didn’t know. I tried my best but this time five pellets went into 0.568-inches. It’s over twice as large as the last group but it’s still the second-smallest group of this test. It told me I was tiring out, but it also told me this pellet is indeed a great one for this 397. I decided to call it quits for this day.

397 JSB Heavy group2
On the second try the 397 put five JSB Exact Heavys into a group that measures 0.568-inches.

The sight adjustment I made didn’t go quite far enough for this pellet. The sights still need to come a little to the right and a little more down. Well, next time.

What about the paint?

What about the black paint overspray in the muzzle? I think the first group of JSB Heavys puts that concern to rest — however — I did take a Q-Tip loaded with acetone to the muzzle and…

Nothing! As I suspected all along, the paint is not affected by the acetone.  It’s still there and the accuracy we have seen in today’s test proves that it has no affect on accuracy. But I’m not finished testing the 397, so we shall see all that she has to offer.

397 paint
Scrubbing the muzzle for several minutes with a Q-Tip soaked with acetone had no affect on the black paint inside the muzzle. Nor do I think the paint has any affect on the accuracy of the rifle.

Discussion

I’m spending time on the new Benjamin 397 because it’s a very worthy airgun. It’s also considerably less expensive than it used to be.  The new synthetic stock is disappointing because it doesn’t allow for the use of the sights that the rifle comes with, nor would a peep sight work, if mounted. The high cheekpiece and comb put the shooter’s head too high. But today’s test shows that if the stock comb can be lowered the 397 is everything it is cracked up to be. I have no complaint about using synthetic material for the stock, but I wish whoever designed it had field tested it with knowledgeable airgunners.

The new valve gives more power from fewer pumps, which is great for a multi-pump. In no way does the test rifle come close to the advertised velocity, but the velocity it does reach is right where it needs to be. And it is no harder to pump than any of its predecessors.

Summary

Today was round one of accuracy testing for the Benjamin 397. I plan to return many times to see just how accurate this rifle really is!

104 thoughts on “Benjamin 397 Variable Pump Air Rifle: Part 3


  1. B.B.,

    I assume you are using an old wood stock attached to the new Benjamin to allow you to use the iron sights for the test. Could you possibly put a short section of 1 1/2 inch diameter pipe where the barrel should be and shoot through that? Would the FX radar work that way?

    Comparing the muzzle in Part 1 with Part 3 it looks like the muzzle is in better condition now than when you first received it. Then again it may all be just how the photo was taken.

    Siraniko


  2. Just a thunk.
    Since it is meant to be attached to the gun, could the chronograph have an accelerometer inside that senses a vibration when the gun is fired then briefly turns on the radar far that shot?

    It seems like it could eat batteries quickly if it was on all the time,
    And could pose a possible health hazard from radar emissions if it was on all the time.

    During the early 90’s there were cases of police officers developing cancerous cells in areas where they had rested the radar guns between “shots”.

    Just exploring possibilities….

    Ian


  3. B.B.,

    Do you have any Velcro tape?
    It would make a faster on-off for the FX then the rubber band(s)
    Did you have the FX unit pointed down range?
    Is their an arming function on he FX with a timeout? The LabRadar has one and is also a selectable duration of transmission after the LabRadar “hears” the acoustic signature of a shot report. A selectable secondary trigger is when the projectile enters the RADAR beam.

    Check the orientation of the unit! I’m going to guess it was not looking down range.

    shootski


  4. BB, normally the Chrono should have been delivered with a second bottom plate replacing the v-shaped one which attaches to the barrel.
    The replacement plate has a hole for a photo tripod to be attached. This way you can place the chronograph on the table under the muzzle end of the barrel, aligning the barrel with the grove on top of the chronograph housing facing down range. Keep the muzzle close to the top, nearly touching and it will work fine.
    Image is a screenshot from the FX YouTube video.









            • Please don’t use hot glue to attach magnets to anything. Heat, and especially hot glue reduces the power of magnets. We use neodiums on R/C airplanes for access hatches and hot glue is a no-no in that case. Cyanoacrylates are good but brittle and fail with shock. I think a little dab of epoxy’ll do ya best.


              • Will
                CA gets hot when it cures to.

                And epoxy too come to think about it.

                I fly RC planes too. For many years.

                Now I wonder what glue doesn’t get hot that would secure the magnets?


                • Hi Gunfun1,
                  It’s about how hot the magnet gets. Hot glue as it comes out of the glue gun will burn layers of skin from your finger if you get it on you. I found that out all by myself! Epoxy and Ca get a little warm while they cure. Same for iron-on covering materials, if you heat the magnet to the same temperature as your hot iron as you cover over it, your magnet will become substantially weaker. How much weaker, I don’t know, I’m sure we can look that up.



                    • Thanks for asking! I started flying R/C model planes in 1984 and have been doing it since, but there have been ups and downs in my interest. I fly sport models and mostly bore holes thru the sky in the traditional manner: aerobatics, low and slow, flying to sharpen my skills and just flying for fun. No 3-D flying, which I think you have said you like. Here’s a picture of my planes. I build kits and also design and build my own. See the forward swept wing with googly eyes on the middle right! Elevator and ailerons, no throttle. Fly full bore all the time till you run out of fuel and then be able to make it back. I love those old Cox .049s. How about you, bud?


                  • Will
                    That’s how my flying room use to look. I started when I was kid around probably 10 years old which was the early 70’s with gliders then moved up to powered flight. I got into it big time around 84 to about 94. Didlikeyou built all kinds of planes. And yep those cox engineswete cool. I use to pylon race scratch built planes with the TD .049 and .051’s. They was definitely little screamers.

                    And now I just have one electric 3D plane they call flat foamy’s. Its got a 40″ wingspan. It resembles a Extra 300. I scratch built it. And here is a picture of my pusher prop YF22. Itsa blast to fly also. It will slow down to pretty good and no tip stalling.

                    I got I bet a hundred of pictures of planes I had. I’ll have to dig them up and post some one of these days.

                    But here is the jet. It’s about a 30 inch wingspan.


                    • Heyyy, good stuff, GF1! The desire to go far into one’s hobby whatever it is, is made better with hands-on skills and getting elbows deep in the innards of it. I wouldn’t like airguns half as much if I didn’t take them apart to find out how they work and then change them! Hopefully for the better…
                      I’m glad you like the .049s, most people think they’re too hard to work. The electrics have exceeded the power to weight of glow engines, but I fly what I got and it’s fun as heck. Your YF rolls like an eggbeater I bet! Nice work making something as fun as that one looks.
                      Will


                  • Will
                    That’s the way I do it too. I like to dive in deep .
                    And the YF22 is a blast to fly. And yep a very fast roll rate.

                    What I like too is when you dive it and get your air speed high it whines.till you let off the throttle and it slows down. My regular prop electric planes don’t do that with the same motor and prop. Either way I like that it does. Definitely realistic when it flys. RC planes has for sure been one of my most favorite hobby’s throughout time.


                    • GF1,
                      I wonder if the whine you hear when you’re gliding fast downhill with the YF above is created because the prop is in the middle of the plane and the air at the prop is disturbed by the shadow of the wing, like eddies in the paddle stroke, kinda. Just a thought. Model airplanes and what you can do with one motor and radio, installed into different air frames gives you completely different flyers, with one initial investment. That is, if you’re willing to build the planes! Nice to have a “cheers” with a fellow R/C builder/flyer on the best air gun blog ever!



                • GF1,

                  I usually use a product called “Marine Goop”. There is also a “Plumber’s Goop” that is the same thing in a different package to appeal to a different market. It is a thick, clear, rubbery glue that cures by solvent evaporation. I’ve used it to attach magnets to the remote antennae of those early hand held GPS units so I could stick it to the roof of my truck. I never find that the magnets on whiteboards to be strong enough to hold the board to my fridge. I use Goop to attach stronger ones to the board and then a thin film on the refrigerator side of the magnet to make a non-marring surface. I use it for everything. It patches rubber boots and awnings and canvas, nylon tents, put it on electrical joints in a pinch, just all kinds of uses. It is thick as it comes out the tube, but levels out quit a bit. The thicker you apply it the longer the cure time. Good stuff to have on hand and I try to never let myself run out.

                  Half




          • BB,

            I may be able to help you out with the FX Radar issues. I left a comment earlier today on the blog about the radar (I’m behind a few days) that warned you to watch for this and I assume you haven’t read it yet. The radar is set up for different ranges of velocities based on the type of gun you select in the parameters. In the photos from your first shooting session I can see that the range was 590 fps to 1099 fps and from part 2 of the 397 blog you got 582 fps on 4 pumps with Premier Lights. That’s too slow for the radar if it is set where you had it the last time you used it in a report. If what I propose is true, then you need to tap the rifle symbol in the center of the bottom edge of the app and then select “Airgun UK” which is 440 fps to 820 fps. After that you can just shoot over the center of the radar. It doesn’t need to be attached to the gun. I never attach mine unless I’m not at a table.

            Now for the tripod mount, if you just insist on using one. I think my memory is correct on this but I may have it backwards. FX originally designed this with a 1/4-20 threaded metal plate in the bottom of the radar to allow for tripod mounting. Almost immediately they redesigned it to fasten on the barrel. Some of the folks like me that bought the unit with the less handy tripod mount raised hell because the barrel mount is better so they offered the mount to those buyers as an add- on replacement. It seems like there was a very short period where they sent it free and then at some point they charged shipping. At any rate I think they abandoned the threaded mount. I’m attaching some bad photos that I just took to show how the mounts interchange in case you get your hands on one of the threaded ones or if you want to make one.





          • The two mounts side by side.

            Really don’t need either most of the time, I promise.

            Hope this helps and I really hope I was right about the speed range. I want you to like this little gadget!

            Half


          • One other little tip I’ll mention in case you don’t already know. If you leave the bluetooth enabled on your phone after you finish your session it will drain your phone’s battery quicker, at least it does on my iPhone. I don’t think your’s is an iPhone so your mileage may vary. I never used bluetooth until I got this radar and didn’t turn it on before. Now I keep an eye on it because I started noticing shorter battery life.

            Half


      • B.B.,

        I want the FX Chronograph to work. It would make my life easier going to the range.

        There are two versions of the FX Chronograph. The latest is the MK2. I think this is what you have although it isn’t clear on the PA site what they’re selling. In both versions the second mounting bracket allowing it to mount to a tripod should be included. In the PA reviews many recent buyers are complaining that they didn’t receive the tripod mounting bracket either with their purchase of the FX Chronograph.

        Although the barrel mounting bracket that yours came with may look like it’s cast as one piece it can be removed. It requires that the 4 screws on the back plate be removed in order to install the bracket that mounts to a tripod (saw this on a youtube video). FX needs to send you the mounting bracket you’re missing if you intend to keep this gadget.



  5. Good day all. Long time since last writing but always reading. Maybe a dumb sugestion, but if a long eye relief scope can be mounted, maybe then you’d be in line with the comb and free to grab the gun where the best purchase is for pumping. I hope I said that well enough to be understandable, English is not my native tongue.
    Cheers


    • Macmaniacoes,

      Your English is better than many for whom it is their native tongue.

      The issue of mounting the scope on the barrel instead of on the action is the mounts for such do not fit snuggly according to those who have used them. There is also the possibility of breaking the solder joint between the barrel and the compression tube.

      The real shame of this air rifle is the stock pretty much demands a scope be mounted, even though there are no provision to mount a scope.



      • Thank you, as RidgeRunner said (thanks to you too:)) such a shame, I own a 397 with a Williams peep that I love to bits, but my eyesight is declining and I was hopeful I could mount a scope in this.
        Cheers


        • Macmaniacoes,
          I love my peep-sighted rifle, which is much the same as yours; however, I did have trouble with the original .093″ aperture on the Williams peep sight; once I opened it up with a 7/64″ drill (about .109″), I found it much easier on my eyes, yet still very accurate.
          Take care,
          dave
          P.S. I did have a forward mounted 2X scope on it (using the Sheridan intermount) for a couple of years, and it did work out pretty well; the accuracy was good, and the scope did not interfere with the pumping; in the end, i went back to the peep sight, as I like the light weight and the balance; but the forward mounted scope was viable, and I did hunt some squirrels with it out to 25 yards (even though it was only a 2X pistol scope). I hope that helps; thank you.


        • Macmaniacoes,

          I don’t know if you live in the US or not, but Baker Air Guns sells a mount that fastens to the receiver rather than the barrel and on my gun seems to pose little risk of breaking the solder joint that many here are worried about. It certainly won’t pose anymore risk than drilling and tapping the receiver would. It has a 11mm dovetail and a 20mm dovetail. I just ordered a cheap $30 4X32 short scope for mine to see if it will mount far enough back to let me grip the gun in the best way. I usually shoot with just a few pumps and that is easy to do with my hand on the stock’s grip, but more pumps require getting closer to the pump handle with the off hand, as you probably already know. I’ll post back here on your comment when it get it set up to let you know how it turns out. If you can get that bolt on mount I know it would allow mounting a red dot sight out of the way if that would help with the old eyes problem.

          Half


        • Macmaniacoes,

          I got that scope that I mentioned to you after you first posted this. I already had the Baker Airgun scope rail on my 392 ( works on 397 also ) and the scope I got was on Amazon for 30 USD with Weaver rings. It’s 4X32 and it is what you can expect for a $30 scope, BUT…it turned a rifle that I simply couldn’t shoot with open sights into one that is now a lot of fun. The Baker rail has two notches in it to accommodate the Weaver style scope rings, but they are in the wrong location for mounting this scope in a way that doesn’t take away from the ease of pumping. For that reason I had to use a small 4 corner/square file to make a notch near the rear of the rail. It was easy to do because the rail is aluminum and soft. I’m going to post some photos and if you look closely you will see that one of the rings is not completely engaged on the rail, but trust me it is plenty rigid. I banged on mine with a medium sized screwdriver and it didn’t move. If you wanted to use 11mm tip off rings you could save yourself that filing work. The scope is very short and I find that the 4X magnification is all that I need and is much better than iron sights with my vision. In the photos you’ll see that the turrets don’t interfere with the throw of the bolt handle and the front bell of the scope doesn’t impede loading and there is plenty of room for your hand in front of the scope when pumping. Is it elegant? I’ll let you be the judge of that, I don’t overly concern myself with that sort of thing. I don’t want to abuse Pyramyd Air by giving the brand of the scope but you can find a cheap, short, low power scope with little effort by Googling. I did it in about 2 minutes. The reticle has dots, are they actual MilDots? Couldn’t tell ya. I can tell you that at 13 yards from the scope to the target the “wire” part of the reticle doesn’t quite cover up a 1/4″ diameter dot and the “dot” part of the reticle covers about 7/16″. Looking into my backyard to about 25 yards the scope is focused pretty well and there doesn’t seem to be any parallax. However in my basement at 13 yards the focus is off and there is about 3/8″ – 7/16″ of apparent parallax. I mention these things because I don’t know what ranges you shoot your gun at and how concerned you are about parallax. The eye relief is not a problem for me either. The one drawback is that the rail has lots of corners and might make your hand chafe until you get a little callused or wear a fingerless glove on that hand, or I suppose you could round the edges off if you wanted. For me, this setup is a couple of notches above what I was able to do with the peep sights or the factory sights and it was a cheap enough solution.

          Hope this was of some help, Half

          Here’s the pics.


          • Sorry for the late response, you certainly gave me something to think about. I live in Europe and I havent found this mount anywhere here, so to the purchase cost I’ll have to add international shipping plus arrival taxes, in the end it will cost about 100+ dollars, and that’s a hefty sume for me at the moment.
            On the other hand, opening the rear peep with a drill is easy and dirty cheap.
            Needles to say, thank you for your input and your time, and that gun looks great, it is a really nice setup.
            Mael


  6. It is a real shame that they let the marketeering department do the engineering for this air rifle. TCFKAC has done it again. If they truly wish to increase their profits, they need to get rid of the no nothings and hire some real airgun shooters. This is ridiculous.



  7. BB,
    Maybe you need to go in to the settings on the FX app and select a different profile? There are several different profiles which select a range of pellet speeds. The fastest is 500fps and higher, but there is also a number of other profiles for ranges like 400-750fps, 150-600fps, etc. I don’t remember the exact ranges, but they are listed next to their profiles names. So if your pellets were coming out slower than 500 fps and you were set to “air rifle”, which is the fastest range, it would not register. Just a thought.


  8. Off topic/SIG ASP20/gone?:

    Was on GTA and a poster indicated that the ASP20 is discontinued (confirmed through dealer) and he got the last 2 the dealer had. The SIG site shows out of stock,…. so who knows. At any rate,… anyone on the fence about one might be doing some quick shopping for any that are still out there (like the Maximus).

    Chris


    • Well, seems FM is late to the party again. On the other hand, it will help avoid difficult decisions on spending down the regretfully limited Fun Fund on things other than priority fun items. Then again, it seems anything fun should be a priority, specially when one is Of An Older Generation. There will be other and hopefully better opportunities to come.


      • FM,

        Nothing wrong with waiting to see the bugs get worked out and if it will stick around. Then,… there is always the “Gen. 2” possibility if does. Plus,… on going parts and support either way.

        Sometimes you just have to go for it,…. roll the dice,…. etc.. There will always be something new and better just around the corner. At least we hope it is actually better.

        Chris


  9. Chris,

    I think you are correct on the clipped sight, too bad. Even on a steel barrel they really mess up the barrel when pried off to install a peep sight. The brass barrel will suffer even more cosmetic damage.

    With all these changes on a classic pellet gun, too bad they made it cheaper instead of better. One change they could have made is a dovetail on the breech.

    Too bad this classic is going the way of the 760. A cheap big box store item.

    At this time the Aspen is a better buy in my opinion.

    Don





  10. Interestingly enough, I’ve found that my D-54 will shoot both AA 10.34 and 8.44 4.52mm pellets quite accurately. Here is an example shot at 50 yards from a rest. The spinner on the left is 4 consecutive shots with AA 8.44’s. Since she is a fraulein of German extraction, I’ve started calling her my Gewehr 54.



      • Gunfun,

        Sorry, it’s the one on the bottom. The 3 together are on the left Pictures don’t always go in the right place when you add them for some reason. I would say the scope is pretty bright. It has an illuminated dot (3moa) reticle and the reticle is etched on the glass so you can see it without illumination. You’ll need a 3/8 to picitanny adapter like theTruglo pictured. It’s fun to see how accurate you can be with low magnification.

        Brent


        • Brent
          Yep I shoot low power on the scopes also. Usually 4 magnification.

          And I thought maybe the scope wouldn’t be bright without the bigger objective lens. But maybe it would be like a magnified dot sight in a sense. That’s what I want to find is like 3 or 4 magnification dot sight.

          Have you tried the 10.34’s at different distances to check the trajectory yet? I found they actually shoot pretty flat.


  11. Glad this is the Thursday blog.

    Hope we got a exciting weekend blog in store. Especially after this week that’s gone on.

    Tired of all the bull that’s going on in the world. Nothing new. Just all the not the norm bull.

    At least I still enjoy myself and family every weekend when we get together. Who would of thought this 10 or 30 years ago.

    Hmm. Maybe this is one of those comments that could be deleted now days. So be it. At least I said it.


  12. B.B.,
    Regarding your FX chronograph, I saw some reviews on this unit and as I recall, there are optional settings for the fps range. It the range setting is too high, then the projectile speed will not be detected. I think someone else mentioned this up above too. Check it out.
    Geo



    • Geo,

      And, before reading all the comments first, I wrote a short book to BB on that same subject further back up in the comments. LOL I’m pretty sure that’s the problem based on the settings he shows in his pics from the radar review and from the speeds he posted with Premier Lights in part 2 of the 397 blog. He was probably about 10 fps too slow to read.

      Half



  13. Tom,

    I finally figured out the PRIMARY reason that I have a great respect for your writings.

    Humility.

    Given your vast knowledge of shooting, sights, scopes, reloading, chronographs, etc., etc., you’re never biased or close minded about suggestions or observations.

    I need to work on this enviable trait.



  14. Hi BB
    I purchased one of the first FX Chronys available in Canada when they first became available – way before PA had them in stock. The only mount available then was the 1/4 20 tripod mount on the bottom. I have used.It in that configuration ever since with a full size tripod or with a mini tripod on my shooting bench.
    Standing, with the full size tripod, it can be asily adjusted for both rifles and pistols. Just make sure the FX unit is at least a couple inches behind the muzzle and the barrel is just above barely touching the FX unit. With pellets 100% useage and maybe 1 in 25 missed with bb’s. No difference noted between the black anodized or silver coloured bb’s.
    On the shooting bench w/sand bags I change over to a stubby table tripod that works the same.
    I also use an IPad or an android tablet, The available phone software works fine on both and the larger format suits my old eyes way better.
    I did see a use for the rubber band mount coming up so I ordered one from my Canadian supplier an hour ago. Still in stock and supplied no charge from FX. Just had to pay the shipping.
    Cheers
    Dave


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