HW 30S
The HW 30S I am testing seems to be a new version.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

This report covers:

  • Setup
  • The tune
  • Takes a mainspring compressor
  • After the lube
  • Time to settle down
  • Worth it?
  • Summary

Today I’m going to lubricate the powerplant of the HW 30S to remove the slight vibration it has when it fires. And I’m going to do it in a special way that should please several of you.

Setup

Before the lube tune I tested the velocity of the rifle once more. Several readers felt it wasn’t up to par in the first velocity test that was done in Part 2. Well, since then the rifle has been fired 40-50 more times, so it should be a little more broken in today. I noted that at the end of the test in Part 2 it was already speeding up.

I decided to test with only a single pellet, as all I’m interested in is a baseline that I can test against after the lube tune. So I shot ten Air Arms Falcon pellets. In Part 2 they averaged 601 f.p.s. with a velocity spread of 20 f.p.s.

Today another ten Falcon domes averaged 645 f.p.s. with a spread that went from 610 to 662 f.p.s. — a difference of 52 f.p.s. It is now 44 f.p.s. faster than in the previous test. Yes, I would say this 30S is breaking in. 

The tune

After what happened with Michael’s rifle when I lubed it with Almagard 3752 grease from my grease gun with the needle probe, I was curious if that approach could be made to work well. His rifle slowed down a lot. So I vowed to try it again with this rifle.

The HW 30S comes apart more like an R9 than like other HW rifles. The end cap that many call the end block is not threaded. It is a separate inner block for holding the Rekord trigger that fits inside the spring tube. This can throw off people who are used to Weihrauch rifles with threaded end caps. I don’t need to remove it today for what I’m going to do, but I suspect you will want to see a full disassembly. So after the rest of the testing that’s to come I will return and take the rifle completely apart for you.

HW 30S base block screw
That screw (arrow) holds the inner base block in the spring tube. Be sure to use a mainspring compressor if you plan to remove that screw.

HW 30S INNER BASE BLOCK
You can see the inner base block that holds the trigger.

Takes a mainspring compressor

If you do plan a complete disassembly you need a mainspring compressor, because the mainspring is under preload. I will show you that when I take it completely apart. I have read several reports where people took their rifles apart while pressing down on the spring tube and afterward they highly advised against it!

All I needed to do for today’s test was remove the barreled action from the stock. That was easy. Just three screws and out it came. Then the mainspring was exposed through the cocking slot and I could see that it was lubricated with a light grease from the factory.

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HW 30S mainspring
We can see the mainspring through the cocking slot and it is greased.

The cocking slot is all the access that’s needed to lube the spring with Tune in a Tube, which is the same as the Almagard 3752 grease I am using. But when I lubed Michael’s rifle this way last week I used too much grease and the rifle slowed by 150 f.p.s. Without giving away what I did to Michael’s rifle afterward, I knew I had to use much less grease on this HW 30S. So I lubed it very lightly. You could do the same with the Tune in a Tube applicator.

After the lube

Then the barreled action went back into the stock and I was ready to test the rifle again. This time I fired three shots first to start spreading the grease around. The light lube I did took the rifle right up to to the cusp of vibration — cancelling it with no sluggishness in the action. It was time to test the velocity again.

Time to settle down

I fired ten Falcons and noted that the rifle needed to settle down as the grease moved around to all the parts. I got an average velocity of 647 f.p.s. that was 2 f.p.s. faster than the baseline test before the lubrication. The stability was off though. This time the velocity across the 10 shots varied by 47 f.p.s.

So I shot a second string of ten Falcon domes that averaged 652 f.p.s. That is a gain of 51 f.p.s. over the test done in Part 2 and a 7 f.p.s. gain over today’s pre-lube baseline test. The spread for this string went from a low of 631 to a high of 657 f.p.s., which is a difference of 26 f.p.s. The rifle is still settling down after the lubrication but no velocity has been lost. In fact if anything there has been a slight gain after the lubrication. It’s probably all due to break-in. And the velocity variation has been cut in half (52 f.p.s. in today’s baseline test before the lubrication to 26 f.p.s. now).

Worth it?

Is it worth it to lube a buzzy rifle with Tune in a Tube? I think it is. Just go very sparingly, because you can always add more but taking some away requires powerplant disassembly. Of course we still want to see what has happened with Michael’s Walther LGV that I have retuned, and that report will be coming soon.

Summary

The HW 30S is now ready for more accuracy testing. The trigger is adjusted fine and now all the buzz is gone. And the rifle’s power is right where it’s supposed to be. The next test will be with a scope and after that I will test it with a peep sight. Then I will disassemble it farther for you. There is a lot more to come!