by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier
The new Rogue is simpler, more tractable.
Think of this report as a bonus. I thought I was finished with the Rogue after Part 4, but then Seth Rowland — the man who organizes the Malvern, AR, airgun show and also provides big bore airgunners with swaged and cast lead bullets — contacted me, saying that he had been following the series. He told me he had a couple different bullet designs, some that he swages and can control the weight and length of the bullet. He wondered if I wanted to test the rifle with some more bullets — this time from a source other than Crosman/Benjamin. He had no idea whether any of the bullets would work in the rifle, but he did know they were large enough to fit the bore well.
I thought, what the heck — let’s give them a try. I contacted Crosman to get an extension to the loan of the new Rogue. Since this gives me one more day at the range with the rifle, who am I to complain?
Seth sent me 5 bullets in all. They range from 89 grains to 137 grain, so the spectrum is covered pretty well. You may remember that I found the Rogue to shoot best with lighter-weight bullets, which is why Seth sent me these particular ones.
From the left, we have an 89-grain swaged bullet, 119-grain swaged bullet, 128-grain cast bullet, 130-grain cast bullet and a 137-grain swaged bullet.
At the range
The day was perfect. The wind was a light breeze that caused no problems at the 50-yard range. I took each bullet in succession, starting with the lightest weight and progressing to the heaviest. Each bullet shot a 5-shot group at 50 yards. The electronic valve setting was on Light for the bullet and Medium for the power. I figured that if any bullets showed promise, I could return and test them on High power later.
The 89-grain bullet had only fair accuracy and strung its shots vertically in a group measuring just under 4 inches. It was too early in the test to know very much, so I moved on to the 119-grain swaged bullet. It opened up to just over 5 inches, telling me this also was not a bullet for the Rogue. Since it was also swaged, I wondered if that was causing some kind of problem.
The next bullet was the 128-grain cast bullet. Five of those landed in 1.483 inches, looking very nice, indeed. That’s certainly minute-of-coyote or fox at 50 yards…and on out to, perhaps, 75 yards. The cast bullet looks like a design for either a black powder cartridge or a pistol. It was the best group I got so far.
Five shots with the 128-grain cast bullet on Medium power produced this group, which is under 1.5 inches.
Next came the 130-grain cast lead bullet, and it didn’t even land on the target paper. Since I back my targets with a 2-foot by 4-foot target paper to catch strays like this, and since I failed to catch this bullet anywhere, I stopped trying after three shots. Let’s call the 130-grain bullet a non-starter for the Rogue.
The last bullet was a 137-grain swaged design that also failed to make a hole on the large backer paper after 3 shots. It was out, as well.
To this point, it looks like the 128-grain cast lead bullet is the one to spend time with. I chronographed it and found it averaged 699 f.p.s. on Medium power (138.91 foot-pounds) and 731 f.p.s. on High power (151.91 foot-pounds). On Medium power with a fresh 3,000 psi fill, the gun’s status panel tells me there are 11 shots at the beginning. But the status panel number of shots that remain decreases faster than the actual number of shots. Although it says there are 11 shots, there are really 6 or 7 shots before it’s time to fill again.
On High power, the gun starts out with 3 shots on the panel — but I found that I got only 2 shots before the gun wanted to be refilled. A third shot was possible, and I took one just to see where the bullet went. It stayed within the group, though on High power the group is larger than on Medium.
Five 128-grain bullets on High power opened up to 2.847 inches. The shot at the right is after a refill of air.
What do we know?
First, we know that cast bullets with grease grooves seem to shoot better in our Rogue than swaged bullets. At least, there’s an inclination in that direction.
Next, we know that the 128-grain bullet did best in this rifle. If further testing was to be done, that’s the bullet I would concentrate on. I went back and reviewed the performance with all the other bullets that were tested in the past, and this one looks quite similar to the Benjamin Pursuit 127-grain flat-nosed bullet. What that means is that it’s possible to cast your own bullets or to buy them from a source that casts them, as they’re going to perform similarly to the best bullets in this rifle. Both these bullets out-shot the 145-grain Nosler Ballistic Tips that are also good in the Rogue.
We also know that shooting on Medium power conserves air longer than High power, and the slight loss of velocity is inconsequential. Of course, I’d like to play with this bullet even more, shooting it with the control panel set to Heavy weight and shooting it on Discharge, as well as directly controlling the valve dwell time. From just what we have seen in today’s test, I would say this is a bullet to beat.
Remember — this was a test of unknown bullets to see if any were worth testing further. If I owned a Rogue, I would stock up on this 128-grain bullet and play with it more because I think this may be the best overall design for the rifle.
Thanks to Seth Rowland (firstname.lastname@example.org) for providing these bullets to test. He makes other calibers and will work with you to find the best bullet for your rifle.
Bottom line for the Rogue
The Rogue has its detractors — those who feel that it’s to advanced and expensive to be practical in the field. But those people disregard the fact that this rifle shoots as well as almost all other big bores of quality.
All I’ve done in this 5-part test is show you how it performs. The rest is up to you.
59 thoughts on “Benjamin Rogue ePCP: Part 5”
Did you chronograph the missing bullets too? Even if they’re non-starters, it would be interesting to know why.
No, I didn’t chronograph them. I already have so much velocity data on this new Rogue in the earlier reports that I felt it was best to concentrate on those bullets that work.
The problem with this Rogue is that it shoots too few shots for a tank of air. Perhaps Benjamin will come out with an improved model. From what I have read the Rogue has only 1 advantage on the Evanix Conquest .357, more foot pounds — but for so few shots. For some reason, the seller of the Conquest apparently got scared & got the Conquest down-engineered to be semi-auto only, even tho if you emptied a clip on auto with a Conquest, you would probably not get the power or bullet number of a 12 gauge magnum shotgun shooting just one shell. If the Conquest were full auto (as designed) it would approach being a serious hunting tool.
Really? No one I know hunts with a full-auto arm. That’s the stuff of cartoons and movies.
Is it possible to cast a 50 cal pellet based on say the Baracuda design and try it in the Rogue?
It seems to me that we need a new pellet/bullet design that will work for that catagory that lies between low powered air guns and firearms.
First, yes, it would be possible to cast a .50 caliber Bullet that is shaped like a Baracuda. The mold would cost $150-200.
The Rogue is .357 caliber, but I knew what you meant.
However, the Rogue might not respond to such a bullet. Or it might — you would just have to try it to find out.
As for a good big bore bullet, I think we have it here. Remember that 1.5 inches is considered good in the world of big bores.
It would be good to know what moulds were used by Mr. Rowlands? The 128 grain bullet looks like it is from a RCBS mould block ( maybe the #09-124-CN?) that is for the 9mm Luger pistol ,which is supposed to cast at .356 dia. and 124grs wt. None of the bullets you show are muzzle loader bullets. Lyman has a similar 9mm design in their # 356402, which casts at .356dia and wt of 121grs. It is more truncated(pointier) than your bullets. The non-starter appears to be from a Lee mould probably their# TL356-124-TC. What was the as cast dia. of your bullets?
The 128-grain bullet measures 0.358, as-cast.
Polishing is booooring and requires much patience and compete submersion into controlling one’s hand’s movement. Fine sandpaper is sometimes frustrating – so much work, overall look is glass-like, but the flaw you want to eliminate is still there, only a little less in size.
Bought a can of demimatte alkyd-urethane lacquer. Enough for 3 stocks, judging by its size 🙂 The plan is: first to apply a heavily thinned coat to get it deep into the material, let it dry, then apply 2nd one heavily thinned and then apply normally thinned lacquer and after it’s dry – “dust” it a bit to get matte finish.
Repairing one guy’s Gamo 1250 I found an interesting adddition to my “oiling and greasing” article. In case you are demothballing a new rifle it might be useful after degreasing and re-lubricating its cylinder and piston, to apply a very fine film of MoS-doped grease along the “belly” side of piston’s tail (rule is “less is better”). That will make cocking very much easier, as sometimes heavy springers tend to have some unneeded extra pressure and tear’n’wear at that point.
The only rest is getting my FWB C62 ready for the first shot which I plan on Saturday. I found in my stores 20 mm dovetail-dovetail riser base with ballistic compensation, then some work with needle files ans voila it fits FWB 12 mm barrel sleeve dovetail. I plan to mount there a scope on an offset one-piece mount. Next step is getting rid of those nasty permanent felt pen markings – some wiseguy found nothing better than to write their numbers right on their stocks when they arrived in storage. Good thing is that it’s laquered laminate and I hope the ink didn’t penetrate deep.
Whatever you do for a living, I am afraid we have ruined you forever. You have become an airgun fanatic like so many of us. According to what you just said you are polishing your stock for the Duskcombe, and fixing spring guns at the same time for a break from the tedium.
It’s all right, you are not an inch guilty – I keep to this lifestyle since at least 2005 and still afloat 🙂
Just an “active week”, and soon it will change with “just shooting” period that will last for months.
Mmm, “just shooting”. Been a while since I did much of that!
Duskwight, I always look forward to your updates. Love how the new rifle is coming together!
Well, I feel like I’m somewhere in the Russian steppes now. No power going on day 11. No electric repair trucks in sight of my block. Still have three downed poles at the end with a transformer sitting in the street and 2 inches of snow on the ground from the Nor’easter. Next is either a visit from the Cossacks or locusts. The little Yamaha generator keeps on purring providing enough power for heat, light and refrigerator with spare for internet. “Domo” Yamaha. Quick question for BB or anyone, what is the rule of thumb for the differnce in measurement or diameter between the bullet and the barrel? Is it .001″?
This is quite a testament for the little generator!
I’ve been looking for one for a while now. Does it have to be manually started or can be set to automatic and start itself when the power goes out?
Power outages usually don’t last very long here, the system is made to take care of these kind of events and many of the power lines are burried to prevent them from happening in the first place.
These inexpensive inverters would be perfect for me.
Hang in there, I hope power will be back for you soon.
I’m sorry for you,i Hope things startto improve,most of my famiIy are in N.J. and they are hoping
to get back to normal.
All the best and good luck to you.
FredDPRoNJ, Sorry to hear your circumstances but darn glad you have a generator. I see photos of people standing in lines with containers to be filled with gasoline. Are those to power generators like yours? Do most people have back-up generators? For what it’s worth, I will pass on a survival lesson learned from living in Minnesota. In dressing for warmth, how much clothing you have is much less important than how much you cover. For example, the biggest parker in the world does little good if you’re walking around with your head exposed where something like 80% of your heat escapes. I was surprised to see that the locals, while relatively tolerant of cold, did not seem to have figured that out and would walk around bare-headed and underdressed, and they would complain about the cold as much as the next. I, on the other hand, could walk out in -70 with the wind chill with essentially only a winter coat. But everything was covered with goggles, ski mask, scarf… Kind of interesting to be only the thickness of fabric from death! My outfit was surpassed by only one guy whom I passed one day who had a sort of Darth Vader-type death screen to warm his breath. I know when I’m bested… Anyway, don’t waste heat by letting it escape.
It’s only minor troubles, comrade
The temperature is still above -10 C? Snow is less than 1 meter? It’s nothing then. Cossacks are nice simple people and respect masters of the house, just show them some hospitality and the fact that you believe in Christ 🙂
Jokes aside – keep up man. Courage and strong will always prevail over temporary troubles.
To answer your question, those who shoot lead bullets generally agree that they want a bullet that is bore-sized to 0.001″ larger than bore-sized for best accuracy.
B.B. I’ve been looking into purchasing a M1 Garand through CMP. Never shot one. I seem to remember you mentioning you’ve had some experience with these guns. Anything I should know or any downside to the Garand? I know I’m a little off topic, hope no one minds. Bub
No problem talking Garands here.
They are sensitive to the ammo they shoot. Military ammo is usually good, with the Greek stuff that’s now on the market being very good.
They should not be fed any factory ammo except a 150-grain round. If you reload, a good to use is 4895.
The burn rate of the powder needs to match the design of the rifle. If the powder peaks in pressure too fast, the operating rod can be bent.
A Garand is like a Kalashnikov in that it is very reliable for its day. I find them to be more reliable than ARs, but not as reliable as AKs. They will outshoot either, but if they are loose they will shoot like an AK.
B.B. Thanks for the info. Bub
I happen to be in the market at the present time for a “bent” op rod from a M1 Garand. It can be bent, twisted, rusty, cut in half, or in any way unusable for its original purpose … it really doesn’t matter. I would like it for a display rifle so I could even have a go at making it straight again.
“They should not be fed any factory ammo except a 150-grain round.”
Why not? Hornady offers an A-max round expressly made for the Garand, at I think, 162 grains.
What ill will happen except a little sacrifice of accuracy?
Are you claiming that modern factory rounds will damage the Garand?
Well obviously if a round is made expressly for the Garand, it’s going to work. I load 168-grain Sierra Matchkings for mine and they work well.
What I was cautioning against, was buying any old 30-06 load and trying to shoot it in a Garand. Because if the pressure curve isn'[t right you are going to damage the gun.
I sure don’t mind. I wonder if the Garand is THE military rifle of the 20th century in combining in its design the thousand yard battle rifles before WWII with the semiauto designs afterwards. And the Garand surpassed just about every one both before and after in most respects.
I myself got a Garand through the CMP, and I would be glad to advise you about the process in any respect. My biggest concern was figuring out how to qualify to get one since I didn’t have direct access to a store. What I ended up doing was applying for the Garand Collector’s Association–easily done. And I also had to have a simple range report of me shooting a gun signed by a rangemaster or other categories of people. I had mine signed by a policeman friend after witnessing me shoot airguns 5 yards in my home.
There’s a lot to know about the various brands. I got a Springfield partly for historical reasons. My impression is that Harrington and Richardson tends to be the best and Winchester the worst, but I’m not an authority.
Naturally, B.B. is correct in all he says especially about the sensitivity to ammunition. The Garand is extremely reliable for the military load that it was designed for. But stray too far and you will bend the op rod or have functioning problems. Part of my plan was that by getting a rifle in 30-06 that I would have access to the largest variety of ammunition since the cartridge is so popular. I was quite wrong about that since the M1s requirements are fairly specific. The Greek surplus is accurate enough, but I wonder if it is sized to fit the M1 exactly. My clips jam unless I load them with 7 rounds instead of 8, and I’ve never had a problem with my handloads. I believe that Hornady now makes a special load for the Garand, but it’s something like $1.50 per round.
It turns out that my options for ammunition became a lot more restrictive even than this. By contracting Clint Fowler, super-gunsmith to build me a high-master rifle capable of 1MOA, I didn’t realize that he achieved this by altering the gas system around a very particular load–basically the hottest end of the spectrum. This stretches the gas-system and rifle to the breaking point, like a thoroughbred, and like a thoroughbred, the rifle is sensitive. It not only will not function as well with other than the custom hand load, but it won’t function at all, jamming frequently.
I’m not unhappy, and actually very pleased with this rifle, now that I know how to handload. And if you want accuracy from your M1, I do recommend him. What he advised, and what I did, was purchase a rack grade rifle as a parts kit which he then rebuilt (and rebarreled). Another way to do it, if you want more a reproduction of the GI rifle is to get anything from service grad (~$695) on up. You should probably learn to handload since the Greek surplus will not last forever. Just stick with B.B. for advice, and don’t read Clint McKee about all the dangers of blowing yourself up.
Matt61, good info. I have already talked to CMP and I qualify. Now it’s just a matter of me getting all the paper work together. Bub
I have a CMP M-1 Grand and it is great. Very reliable, it works fine with a full eight round clip. Some Grands work better when the top round is either on the left or right. If you get jams with a full clip, try changing which side the top round is on. My Grand shoots well with GI ammo and about MOA with my 150 gr handload. Even today, it is a good combat rifle.
So you signed the CMP agreement in which you agree to indemnify the CMP if it gets sued? Are you ready to pay for the CMP’s legal fees? It is IMHO folly to agree to indemnify an organization if it has legal issues & outrageous that they put that on their agreement when you buy an M1 from them. I was able to get one for about the same price for KYgun, with no stupid indemnify oath.
Perhaps you are not aware that you cannot sign away your rights. Even by indemnifying the CMP, you are not losing your rights for protection under the law.
Many of these contracts are written to dissuade people, rather than to protect the organization that writes them.
B.B., I believe your test of the Rogue confirms what I read elsewhere, that when hunting with a big bore airgun it is best to use techniques and distances similar to bow hunting. I found this article something to take seriously.
Of course, the big bore air rifles can be used where high powered firearms would best not be used.
Here is something I found while searching for something else. It is an article about installing a side mounted scope. Figure 24 shows the view from behind.
Lefties are left out of this I expect, but the overall idea seems like it could benefit some shooters.
Thanks for the links. Good to see you up and about.
Nice to get custom ammo for the rifle.
Robert from Arcade, I love your solution with the gasoline. Hilarious and very practical and easy. I’ve heard the same about the strength of the Arisaka which otherwise was a Mauser copy and not remarkable in any respect–even fairly inaccurate. Clint Fowler tells me that tests showed that the strongest actions for WWII rifles were the Arisaka and the Garand. The Garand has also been tested with a “blue pill” load which generated something like 100,000 psi, about double the normal. I don’t believe that anything happened at all.
Anonymous, thanks for the link to the kits although I’m generally feeling a bit more secure about the strength of the rifles. I doubt that an original in good shape would have any problems. My concern was with some improbably exception where say a tank drove over the rifle weakening its interior in a way that couldn’t be detected. Then the rifle would be at risk in exploding on me. But it now seems to me that an event that could fatigue or damage the metal to that extent without leaving any trace of its presence on the surface is physically almost incredible and not something that I need worry about much.
I just had a look at clips of the series Boardwalk Empire, hoping for a bit of action footage. Well, I got that for sure. This series seems inspired by the film Gangs of New York: take a bunch of low-lifes, put them in proximity, and see what happens (although one must acknowledge their often horrible circumstances). The preferred range for guns of all varieties seems to be somewhere between 20 feet and one inch while bushwacking people.
Questions, Questions, Questions. OK, the Generator I bought is actually an inverter. The model is a Yamaha EF2000i. The difference is it puts out clean power via an alternator as opposed to a generator so no problems running sensitive electronics. It also has very sophisticated electronics to control the output and adjust to the load demand. Output is around 14 amps at 120 volts. It’s lovingly referred to as a suitcase generator and Honda makes similar models. They are much more expensive than a generator but compared to 20 inches of water in your basement, it’s cheap. They also tolerate overloads for several seconds, which is what you get when an electric motor starts up, such as a refrigerator, sump pump or the forced air fan on my hot air furnace. My unit is not auto start, it has a pull or recoil starter but very easy since the compression is very low.
While I had no water problems this time, the generator will run my fridge, furnace, a couple of lights, the TV and internet system all at the same time. It also has an economy switch that allows the engine to run at the lowest speed possible to match the demand. What I have done is throw the main breaker on my circuit box (an absolute as you do NOT want to backfeed the grid – you can kill someone if you do). Then having made a double male cord, I’ve plugged the generator into a handy outdoor outlet. Finally to make sure power gets to all areas in the house, I made a 220v shorted plug so that the two legs in my circuit box are shorted together – thus feeding both legs. Before plugging this in, you absolutely have to make sure you have thrown the main breaker and that you have NO power and are disconnected from the grid.
Then it’s just a matter of juggling the load. It certainly has taught my wife to turn a light off when she leaves a room, something I’ve been unable to accomplish in 26 years of marriage! The unit uses about 3/4 of a gallon of gasoline every 3.5 to 4 hours and it’s very quiet, unlike my neighbors’ units.
NNJM, thanks for your well wishes. I am very fortunate in my situation, having a ready supply of gasoline (two full motorcycle gas tanks) and that generator. I have had several neighbors over for showers, dinner and to warm up (she wouldn’t let me take a shower with her – wifey objected, too 🙂 Gas availability has loosened up a bit as more stations get power and open.
Thanks for explaining your model. I wish you continued luck under such difficult circumstances.
I’ve looked multiple times for the twist rate. The nebulous “faster twist rate” on the Crosman site is the closest I’ve come. Faster than what? Exactly how fast? Trying to find a good bullet without the manufacturer apparently wanting to divulge that basic information seems fairly pointless! If I were a potential customer, that alone would put me off. For $1300 also, I’d want to control the air flow, at least to some degree, myself, not trust a quick-set microwave oven type panel!
I’n not sure that the twist rate is everything when it comes to bullet stability. Bullet shape and weight distribution, plus drag must also be taken into account. You will notice that the two most accurate bullets are both biased toward their bases, and both have flat bottoms with high drag.
So the bottom line is that the Rogue is probably demonstrating the full capability of big-bore airguns.
It would be interesting of lubricated bullets would help. That would require probably at least 5 or ten lubricated shots. Your best groups were about the equivalent of a high-end 1911, costing about $500.00 more. Other groups were about the equivalent of a stock 1911. But the technology is exciting. I think that Crosman did a good thing by following through with the Rogue. I look forward to whatever spin-offs may come from the Rogue, including better bullets.
Will you recommend a company that will tune a Diana .350 for me? I am north of Houston on Lake Conroe and just hate to send my gun off to some stranger on the other side of the world…
Houston… ~ 100W Long, 30N Lat… Other side of the world would be 80E Long, 30S Lat…
I think you’re safe — no air gun tuners in the Indian Ocean midway between Madagascar and Australia…
Another reason to deal with someone in my area of Texas. Don’t want my gun around saltwater…
Try contacting Ron Robinson. He lives south of Austin and is a spring gun guy. I don’t know if he tunes guns for others, but it’s worth a try.
I don’t have contact info for Ron, but I’m sure someone on this blog does.
BB, Ron now lives close to Lake Whitney which is close to Waco.
Howard, Ed Krzynowek lives in the Houston area and tunes springers. I think you can find his e-mail address by doing a search on the Yellow Forum.
Thanks B.B. & David.
I will see if I can find them.
How do you think the new 9mm JSB pellets would perform in this?
I don’t know for sure, but I bet they would work fine.
I’d think a true 9mm would be somewhat undersized…
9mm is .355 vs the Rogue .357…
I’ve never owned, nor used, a big-bore air rifle as of date. But – I’ve often heard of reports of their less-than-stellar accuracy over distance… much like what you have demonstrated in your article covering the Benjamin Rogue.
I have thought about this – and, am only left to wonder: Is there a reason why that once you step up to a big bore…. that all the pellets are either bullet or round-ball? Would a traditional diablo shaped pellet offer better accuracy – as, they seem to work perfectly well with the smaller bores. I raise this question because the velocity of the big bore doesn’t increase, in comparison to the smaller bores – many of which, because of mass, actually are quite a bit slower — I would think the diablo shape would actually help to stabilize the pellet better…. But, then again – I’m just a shooter — I know little, if anything, about aerodynamics. Can you please offer some insight on this?
Karsten J. Chikuri
That is a very good question and it has been answered. Shotguns already shoot large diabolo-shaped lead slugs that are very accurate, despite not spinning in flight. So the answer is, yes, a diabolo-shaped bullet would be more accurate in a big bore rifle than a conical bullet.
Now, I just have to test that to see if I am right.
Thanks for the quick reply! And, I apologize for asking a question that had been answered before. I tried searching through the archives, but I didn’t come up with anything that offered an answer – hence, my asking you. Thanks again for the very fast reply! And, BTW – Happy Thanksgiving!
Hi again B.B. can you tell me what the status of the Rogue is? IOW, will it be available for sale in the near future?
Kevin in CT,
According to the tea leaves, the Marauder is out of production.
The Marauder is NOT out of production! The Rogue is still in production but sold only thru Crosman.
Thanks much guys!!!
Was this Benjamin Rogue ePCP ever produce and sold?
I cannot find it in Pyramydair website.
Yes, they were sold.
So far no one can tell me if that Benjamin Rogue ePCP can achieve some of the claims that inventor Mr. Lloyd Sikes stated in his design and patent. I just spoke to Crosman Customers Service about their discontinued Rogue ePCP. I ask him specifically if the Rogue can MAINTAIN a constant muzzle velocity especially when pressure or temperature changes. I have NOT found such an airgun yet. He said that the gun cannot EVEN maintain a constant muzzle velocity from one shot to the next.
I guess I have to really get to know my PCP airgun and learn how it behaves when temperature change during competition so that I can compensate for the shots landing high and low. My hope was high on the Rogue, now I crashed landed. : (
thanx for your info re rogue. I have had mine for about 2 or 3 years and it is my favorite. However there is no longer a tech @ Crosman who knows these guns. I have recently ordered every o-ring they still have in stock in anticipation of the eventual leak/problem. I learn something new everyday in trying different bullets @ different power settings. Do you have any contact #’s/e-mails of tech guys who know this gun? Lloyd Sikes has corresponded some w/me and is very knowledgeable, of course.
Lloyd Sikes is the guy who invented the technology that was used in the Rogue. Nobody know the gun better than he does.
I tested the Rogue for the last time three years ago, so all I remember is what you read in the reports. A few readers own them but they will never see your comment on this old blog. You need to post to the current page for them to see you.