by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
• Accuracy at 10 meters with open sights
• Pellets not worth choosing
• Good pellets
• Best pellets
• Evaluation so far
Pardon me for rushing right into this report, but there’s a lot of ground to cover today. This is the first of many accuracy tests of the Feinwerkbau Sport air rifle.
Accuracy at 10 meters with open sights
I’m shooting the rifle with open sights from 10 meters. For some spring guns, that’s as much as you can do; but the Sport should just be warming up. All I’m really hoping for today is to come away with 2 or 3 good pellets for 25-yard testing.
My method was to shoot 1 pellet and see where it hit. If it was inside the bull, I fired another 4 shots at the same target. If that 5-shot group looked good, I fired 5 more shots to complete a 10-shot group. I had several pellets suggested by readers, plus there were some of my own choices. But there’s no guarantee that in all this testing I found the one best pellet.
Rather than write a lengthy explanation about each pellet, I’ll show you the targets and then discuss them all.
JSB Exact 10.3-grain domes. Five pellets went into 0.764 inches. Not the best pellet.
JSB Exact 8.4-grain domes. Ten pellets in 0.475 inches. This one has potential.
JSB Exact RS domes. Ten pellets in 0.522 inches. This one is also possible.
H&N Field Target Trophy 4.50mm head. Ten pellets in 0.508 inches. Another possibility. Yes, I did adjust the sights before shooting this group.
Air Arms Falcons 4.52mm head. Ten pellets in 0.444 inches. This is what I wanted to see. Best group so far.
RWS Superdomes. Five pellets in 0.429 inches. This might look good, but all the other good pellets grouped much tighter for the first 5 shots. In light of that, I decided not to continue with this one.
Crosman Premier 7.9-grain domes. Ten pellets in 0.336 inches. Best group of the session.
Crosman Premier 10.5-grain domes. Ten pellets in 0.422 inches. Second-best group of the session.
Pellets not worth choosing
Okay, that’s a lot of 10-shot groups. It took about an hour to shoot them all. Two pellets stood out as not being worth finishing the 10-shot group — the JSB Exact Heavy 10.34-grain pellets and the RWS Superdome pellets both showed after 5 shots that their groups were more open than the rest of the pellets I tested. It just wasn’t worth the time to complete the 10-shot groups with them.
Several pellets fell into the good zone — with small groups that still weren’t the very best. The JSB Exact 8.4-grain dome, the JSB Exact RS dome and the H&N Field Target Trophy were in this group. Granted, I shot the FTT pellet with a 4.50mm head instead of the larger head that was suggested, but that was all I had on hand.
Let’s look at the 3 pellets that did the best in this test. They’re the Air Arms Falcon that has a 4.52mm head, the Crosman Premier 7.9-grain dome and the Crosman Premier 10.5-grain dome. These 3 pellets exceeded the other pellets, so they’ll be the ones I test at 25 yards.
Truth be told, any of the good pellets could probably do better on another group. This was a lot of shooting and I’m sure I wasn’t as on the ball with every shot as I should have been. Still, all these groups are better than what you normally see me shoot with 90 percent of the spring guns I test. The reason for that is the name on the outside of the gun. This is a genuine Feinwerkbau, and its pedigree shines through when it is shot.
That light, crisp trigger did a lot for the success of today’s test. It isn’t too light, but just right for ideal shooting conditions.
The open sights also helped a lot. They’re sharp and clear, and there’s a lot of light around the front post. You can aim very precisely. Even if you never mount a scope, the Sport will do you proud in the field.
Evaluation so far
I like the FWB Sport a lot. Can you tell? I wish it was smoother when it fires; but as I’ve noted, that can be taken care of. We still have a lot of shooting to come, so it’s too soon to make a final proclamation; but I do believe the Sport will turn out well in the end.
84 thoughts on “Feinwerkbau Sport air rifle: Part 3”
Well all the pellets did good enough at 10 meters as I would hope so.
25 yards is getting better. And 50 will tell another story.
Oh by the way I searched the HW90 with the Theoben gas spring and couldn’t find any results of you testing it. Well i only used the blog search. I didn’t try to google it yet. 650 dollars don’t seem to bad for it I guess. I would like to find out more about it though. Here I go.
I tested the Theoben Eliminator (Beeman Crow Magnum) back when I wrote the Airgun Letter. I bought one and tested it as a .25, then converted it to a .20 (which people said was the only caliber to get) and tested it more. It wasn’t until I talked to Ben Taylor (the Ben in Theoben) that I found out the gun was pressurized too high and shooting too hard for accuracy. I cleaned the barrel Ben’s way (with JB Bore paste) and lubed the Crosman Premier pellets (with Whiscombe honey that Taylor told me how to make) and the gun shot okay. Not well, but okay.
So, I have been there and done that. I also owned and tested a Theoben Classic (sold by RWS) and a Fenman that had been overpumped and had to be fixed.
I do remember you talking about Ben Taylor and adjusting the pressure in the Theoben gas spring.
I was curious about the HW90 and if it could be adjusted and since it is a gun that can be purchased right now that you may of done a report about it since it is kind of a unusual gun from Weihrauch.
This is something related to a Theoben gas spring I found you reported on. But nothing really on the HW90.
And speaking of gas springs. I was trying to find if you ever did a report on the Hatsan 95 with the Theoben spring. Cant find nothing there either. Only the steel spring version of the Hatsan 95. Do you plan on testing the 95 with the Theoben gas spring or do you still have a lot of new guns that are coming out that you need to test.
Sorry its the Vortex gas spring in the 95 not the Theoben. See.
You are showing you anxiousness on getting your new hatsan 95. I am eagerly awaiting my hipac also and hope to get to shoot it some tomorrow. I got to get all the SSA paperwork and letter from my doctor together and faxed to them asap so I can get either the disability approved or get a hearing scheduled. then it will be time for some shooting enjoyment and back to waiting for an answer.
Hope your gun arrives before you leave for work so you can at least shoot it a few times, I hope it is as smooth as my gas spring guns are and you are happy with it.
Did you find out any more about the road demon that ate your tires and wheels or is it all just on you. if your insurance does not help with it then there comprehensive is not worth having because it has always been my understanding that it was to cover everything except accidents. And should not have a deductible, at least mine does not have one.
buldawg it will come right as I’m leaving. So if anything I can at least get it before I leave.
My wife is off tomorrow and knows its on the way. I told her hands off. Bring it in and don’t open it till I get home. She done that before. She likes to shoot also. And I told her just wait till I get home and I would wake her up when I get there. What do you think her answer was. Remember I get home late. 😉
And what time do you think your package will arrive? And let me know when it gets there ok.
It always the luck you have that it comes as you have to leave for work. I bet the box will be open and the gun ready for you to shoot when you walk in the door and may have been tested just a little for you already.
I would not have to worry about that with my wife as she could not cock a spring gun on her own so it may be open but it would not have been shot yet.
Mine it out for delivery, but here fedex can come any where from 9 am to 5 pm it depends where the package is put on the truck as to when it arrives, but most of the time it is around 1 to 2 PM.
I will let you know when it get here.
Yep mine is out for delivery also. And it will be in the box when I get home. She knows I like opening the box to see how its packed.
And my wife can cock the HW50s but she couldn’t cock the Stoeger X20s I had because of how hard the barrel was latched. The 50 unlatches nice and locks up good. Like I said before I must of got a good one because its been the best to cock out of all the break barrels I have had.
But yep can’t wait to get the Hatsan 95 with the nitro piston. Its .25 cal. and I want to see how it compares to that Benjamin nitro piston XL that I had in .25 cal. The Benji was a handful to learn to shoot right but man that thing was a thumper. So we will see.
And let me know when you get that gun. I want to know if your gauges on your fill devises read the same as mine do.
Well it just got here and of course in about 5 minutes I have to leave for work. So I will have to open it tonight when I get home. Darn anyway. And maybe you will be getting yours soon.
Glad you got yours and only wish you had at least time to get a few shots in before leaving for work. It will be a long night now knowing it is at home waiting for you but just try to stay busy and it will go by faster.
I am still waiting for mine, but I at least got all my paperwork finished other than letter from doctor so when the gun gets here I will have some time to check pressure and shoot it some today. Then it will get the scope mounted and be ready for sighting.
I got a phone interview tomorrow and docs appointment Friday so I may get a chance Thursday to get some 50 yard sighting done.
Just got call from the Wife’s heart doc from the stress test she had yesterday and she has to have a heart cath on the 20th of this month, they said it showed some narrowing of the arteries so hopefully they can stretch them back out and she won’t need a stent put in like I had. Just have to wait and see.
I will let you know when I get my gun.
Did you get yours yet?
I was just getting ready to send you a post when you posted. Yep I got it and checked the pressure and it showed 2000 psi when my pump opened the foster valve so I took another cheap gage that I was using to deadhead for adjusting my paintball regulators on the buddy bottle to fill my 60C to 2000 psi and plugged it in my pump and it shows about a 200 psi difference at 2000 psi and then about 300 psi at 3000 psi so it appears my pumps gauge may be off by 100 psi per 1000 psi of pressure. Which if that is the case then the gun would have been at 2200 psi when I got it and my pump showed 2k before it open to fill, which would stand to reason as to why my hipac was not holding as it was being filled to 3300 psi instead of 3K. I had started only filling to 26 to 2700 psi and that would explain why the gun would try to valve lock at 3k but not at 2700 psi.
I did shoot it some just to see how it did and am happy with it, but your note was right it ain’t pretty but it does shoot good. I appreciate the JSBs also as I have not tried any of them yet. Did not get any chrony numbers yet or get the scope mounted as it got here right about 5 Pm or so and I was working on my 22 cal nitro gun getting the trigger set better with a trick I saw on you tube. I will get scope mounted tomorrow and shoot it more now that I know to only fill to 2200 psi with my pump which would equal 2400 actual psi. I just wish that the hipac had a gauge also.
I got all my paperwork done except letter from doc to send to SSA and I am going to see him Friday and will not be leaving without a letter in my hand if I have to tie him to the chair and make him write it LOL.
On the Crosman and Benji guns to make the trigger into a short single stage trigger without having to buy a GRTIII trigger from CDT I found that you can use the stock trigger and remove the spring and pin for tensioning the trigger itself and either get a couple washers or washer that is 3mm wide by 5mm ID and 9mm OD and put it over the pin that actually rides on the sear to make the sear ride higher in the action effectively shortening the sear engagement and trigger travel and effort. You just have to play with the OD of the washers to get it right. I first used one that was 10mm OD and the sear would only barely engage but not hold it cocked so I went down to 9mm OD and it will catch and has a very short crisp release so now I am going to go to an RC hobby shop and get a bearing that is 3mm wide by 5mm ID and 8.5 or 9mm OD so it will be on a bearing to be even smoother.
I think the fill pressure makes a little more sense now.
I shot that gun on Co2 the way it is setup now before BB did the report on the hi-pac system. The only thing I did was increase the striker spring to a bit heavier one when I went to the hi-pac. And I lightened the spring on the sear for the trigger
It also shoots good with the 8.3 Superdomes.
You get that Hawke scope on it and try some bench resting with it I think you will be surprised how it shoots.
I was going to send you some box premier heavys in .177 for you to try in your guns and I forgot.
But give me a holler when you get the scope mounted and shoot it.
And now we can see if two different chronys can produce the same readings.
I will let you know some number tomorrow and how it shoots with the scope on it.
I have some 10.5s in the tin so I don’t know if the boxed ones would really be that much different, but one day I will buy some boxed ones and see if they are better than the tins. I am happy with it and once I do a little touch up and add some little touches to it I will send you a pic and see if you recognize it .
Got to go now the wife is getting dinner ready so talk to you later.
I will be waiting.
Will let you know
Better check it again – there is a full report in the blog for the Beeman RX 2 rifle (the equivalent of the Weihrauch HW 90 that you seem to be looking for):
I didnt search for Beeman. My bad.
I didnt think about checking out the links for Beeman when I searched it but I will. How much do they want for these Theoben spring guns. Are they the same 650 dollars as the HW90?
Oh, Beeman adds a good bit more for their name to be put on it. That is why they bought the name with the company, so they could charge more.
They sure did. Didn’t they.
Since you were shooting at 10 meters with open sights, at least one match grade pellet would have been nice, but I do see that you did a lot of shooting, and that is what we are looking for, some results!!!
Permit me to ask if you had cleaned the barrel effectively prior to the shooting tests.
Was this the case or you just shot the rifle as it came out of the box? (without even an attempt to clean it)
Additionally, can you please inform us if after changing from one pellet to another you fired at least 10 shots out of target (or somewhere else – definitely not on the target of the test that counted) in order to prepare the barrel for the next pellet thus eliminating any possibilities of bad pellet behavior during these transitions? (the term normally used is “barrel conditioning”)
I shot the gun with no barrel cleaning and no pellet seasoning. Just straight, as was reported.
We have come to the same conclusion. She is a nice gun, and I am happy with her. I ran two patches through her and she was clean. 🙂 Shot cycle and spring noise are my only complaints. Open sights at 20 yards with H&N FTT 4.51 head were: (please excuse the yellow shot, that was all me)
“Better than what you normally see me shoot with 90 percent of the spring guns I test” at 10 meters is high praise and a promising start. I look forward to reading about your results at longer ranges.
I enjoyed yesterday’s report on the Hakim. Thanks for the tutorial on lubing a spring piston gun.
Speaking of lubing a spring gun, what about liquid wrench ” dry lubricant” , its a cerflon ceramic teflon micro powder apparently, the propellent evaps right away and doesn’t have detonation problems if you leave it to dry, obviously will if you shoot right away. From the sounds of it it should attach to the steel like moly powder, I like the idea of dry lubricants and this seems to be working pretty good. A modern rubber seal shouldn’t need oil to keep it healthy, correct? Im thinking let the cerflon work into the tube walls, maybe one more coat, then give it a dust of graphite every 500 or more shots… ?
Sounds like the dri-slide tunes done to springers in the old days.
I asked B.B a while back about using graphite to avoid detonation issues. I believe his words were: Anyone please,correct me if I’m wrong. “In a world where we have Moly, I don’t see the need for graphite in a spring gun.” But there was a reason I brought it up, I’ve also wondered about the Anti-Seize compounds.I used to work with a guy who would wear that stuff like cologne everyday. I kept waiting for swollen rubber parts to limit his use of it but never really noticed any. And the stuff stays where it’s put while also getting everywhere!
Why is it that the TX200 can shoot smoother with less vibration right out-of-the-box, then any other brand of airgun such as Weihrauch, Diana, and this FWB sport?
Why does anything work the way it does? Because it is designed that way.
If you are curious about the TX 200 Mark III I wrote about it here:
I thought maybe the TX is manufacture with tighter tolerances, something that other manufactures can also do, but choose NOT to do it for whatever reason. Do you know that reason?
Perhaps there is another answer that I am not aware of and that you know.
You have inspired tomorrow’s report.
I look forward to your report, and thank you!
That should be a interesting report. Can’t wait.
Sounds good to me!
which rear sight shape did you use to shoot the groups?
I believe it was the 2.2mm notch.
It was set up from the factory and it looks great.
Geez- about 1/2″ group at 10m is good?? I must be a bad stickler when it comes to accuracy for my guns. IF my Sheridan doesnt put 5 premiers or JSBs in a 1/4″ group ctc at 10m I dont keep that gun. Fact is even open irons I usually get .05–.15 for most of them.Any flyers is almost definately a bad pellet which is becoming more of a problem with those softer JSBs. The premiers use to be best I believe becaseu they were harder and so remain true from the die but later batches the QC ran amuch and now there is lots of flyers there too. Im surprised you didnt try the JSB Express 7.8gr pellet. Ive also found that scoped or open sights at 10m gives the same results.
You’ve already navigated the long and winding road to discover what pellets shoot best in your guns.
B.B. has just begun this journey with the FWB Sport. That 0.336″ group with cpl’s isn’t bad though.
Let’s not jump the gun.
Since you’re new to the blog you should know that B.B. doesn’t have time to test every pellet out there in any gun he tests. Perhaps there are better pellets for this FWB Sport?
Those are some of the best pellets out there. I think iot may be te fact that this gun has considerable great power and may be critical in the hold sensitivity. OK, will soon see.
I agreed with you about 1/2″ group at 10m is poor, but I think BB is just looking to see which pellets he can use for his real accuracy test at longer distance.
You cannot compare B.B.’s 10-shot groups with CV’s 5-shot groups.
Why don’t you see what group size you get with 10 pellets, not 5? After all, that would be comparing the same number of shots. I assume you know that the more shots you shoot, the bigger the group will get.
I agree Edith, as B.B. has stated numerous times a 10 shot group will be somewhere about 40% larger then a 5 shot group.
If you really want to compare your expertise to BBs, CV,, perhaps a trip to Ohio for the tournament that he will attend, might be of help. There will be an opportunity to see what others believe accuracy is.
Might experience with airguns has been limited to PCPs and multipumps . I recently purchased a Trail NP and am having “growing pains” trying to learn the new techniques needed to wring accuracy of any kind out of it. I may decide to tear it down for a tune if I get the nerve.
This springer sounds like what I really want,, but since I can’t afford their PCPs either,, I guess I’ll have to settle for what my allowance allows. Is the rifle at all hold sensitive?
That Trail NP is a nitro piston.
Is there a type of tune you can do to a nitro piston gun other than the trigger?
Yes! A lube and hone/deburr tune is a huge way to improve a springers shot, but can be a pain. I just did the blaze and it had no real problems, but I’ve seen some serious crapp inside other springers I’ve tuned. The trigger is actually the part giving me problems, the adjustmentscrew seems to do absolutely nothing! Normally rounding and polishing the screw does wonders, on this one it is setup different and the full range of adjustment does basically nothing and the polish did nothing either. Im stumped.
No not a springer. I know how a tune works on a spring gun.
I want to know if there is process to tune a nitro piston gun.
We are talking 2 different power plants.
I have just bought a Titan GP NP in 22 cal and have been sighting it in my backyard at 15 yards and I use a bag on my porch railing to rest the gun on with it slid up till the trigger housing just touches the bag and only lightly hold the stock with my right hand to pull the trigger and let the gun do its thing when firing and have been able to keep 1/4 to 3/8 inch groups fairly easy with this technique. I know BB has said in the past to not use a bag to rest a spring gun on, but I have had good success with this method myself. The bag I am using is one that they use in hospitals to keep pressure on the site where they insert the probe when they do a heart cath and it is about 6 by 10 inches and 2 inches thick and it feel like it is filled with lead shot because it is about ten or twelve pounds and is a heavy vinyl cover. I also have a venom NP and a spring quest clone both in 177 and they also shoot in the same size groups with mainly crosman 7.9s and 10.5 in the 177s and crosman 14.3s in the 22 all from the tins at wally world.
I don’t know if you have tried this type of method but I like how it works for me.
I’ll give the “bag” a shot Dawg,, thank you. Mine is a 22, and I’ve been given to understand that heavier pellets help with the accuracy. Maybe I’ll try some lighter ones.
As for tuning,, I just received an email from a guy that seems really knowledgeable about it,, and he has given me pretty extensive suggestions on what to do and how to do it. True,, it seems that much of the work involves the trigger,, but there is still some work to be done cleaning up burrs and rough spots, and proper lubrication. At this point,, I think I’ll do a little at a time, and see if any of it helps.
I’m planning to buy an FX Four Stage Turbo Hand Pump for my BSA Ultra. Would that particular make of hand pump be compatible with the fill probe of the BSA? Or would I be needing an adaptor of some sort?
That is a question your dealer selling the hand pump needs to answer. I would think it would fit because threads have standardized on 1/8 BSP, but who knows, other than the dealer?
Interesting results. So it seems that this specimen has power to accelerate heavy pellets up to such speed that they exit the barrel on a very negative (precision-wise) kind of oscillation. Well, I don’t think it “under-accelerates” them to the degree, visible at 10 meters.
I wonder if FWB standard barrel weights fit this model. Some time ago I discovered that talc, barrel and improvised bow can bring lot of fun and lot of understanding to accurizing springers and finding some “sweet spots” and “deaf zones”.
Any time you want to write another guest blog, you are welcome. 😉
Got your point 😉
Are you saying use talc powder to see the way different parts of the barrel vibrate based on its effect on the powder on it, or???
Exactly. Barrel weights or sleeves can change that pattern improving or destroying accuracy.
BB And Fellow Airgunners
This FWB Sport is rapidly moving up on my list of “gotta haves”. If you take away the first 10 shot group shown using JSB Heavies at 10.2gr., pretty well all of the other pellets would be deemed very acceptable in my estimation. Maybe some folks forget your groups are 10 pellets each using open sights. I noticed the JSB 8.44gr. pellets I suggested had a nice group of 9, and one lonely projectile just off to the side. Was this a flier, or something you did? I’m glad to see this FWB perform in a manner most of us expect a FWB to perform. I don’t believe the company would consider making a 500fps model for the Canadian market though. However, after seeing how the Walther LGV performed a year or so ago, and now this FWB Sport, I’m afraid I will have to swallow my pride and opt for the $200. plus PAL (possession and accusation licence). That way I could be like Cowboystardad, and obtain a powder burner or two as well.
I just took out my 63 sheridan and some JSB exact pellets and shot a 10 shot group and a 5 shot group at 10m with open sights .The 5 shot group was .08″ C-T-C and the 10 shot group was .11″ c-t-c. This is average for the gun and Im 60yrs old. So you can see why I wouldnt be impressed with .3-.5″ c-t-c groups no matter if its 5 or 10 shots. Im sorry the pictures close up didnt come out sharper but you might be able to see enough .Ive been shooting airguns and sheridans for 49 years.
Those are some nice groups you have there. I’m jealous of the great eyesight you have at 60. I’ve pretty well had to give up using open sight due to the lack of depth perception at the age of 63. Oh well, must have not eaten enough carrots in my youth. That stock your Sheridan is sporting looks pretty nice too. Did the gun have the stock when you purchased it, or is it something you, or someone else fashioned?
You must also take into consideration that while your groups are very nice and I wish I could get some like them outta my ’80’s 392,there’s a big difference between shooting a springer and a pneumatic gun, so different that they are in a totally different class in most competitions.
Hang on to that Sheridan!
I have 2 sheridans with really gorgeous walnut figure.Thats the way they came back then. Yeah, I dont know why my eyes are still pretty sharp.Im blind at distance and need glasses but I do see exceptionally well with them-so far. I do pistol shooting too and dont need that merit iris thingy yet. I just thought this FWB should shoot at least 1/4″ for starters @10m with many good designed pellets(some which were mentioned). I happen to have a 1976 FWB 127D I bought not long ago .It was brand new unfired and after it was tuned and glass bedded to a custom walnut stock it shoots pretty much zero spreads at 10m.Thats 5 shots making a .22″ hole. My other guns that hit zero CTC spreads at 10 yds is the R7 Tuned and a Sharp Ace Hunter 22cal. Anyones welcome to come on by and see .I know some of my friends have seen this .
Or is it dead eye lol
That’s some nice shooting
CV, welcome and great shootin’, Accuracy is always relative to the individual, but I too think ten meters is not a far enough distance for rifles because in a perfect world they’d be zero spread 100% of the time. On a different note, especially for spring guns on the matter of pellets, I may have found an overlooked diamond on the tough at the wall-fart… Gamo bone collector “high impact” 7.56gr. domed pellets. I was looking for a larger diametered pellet and wasn’t able to complete my shopping cart of tins, but found these, and actually had seen them a million times but they are overpriced so never bit. Finally trying them out they have an awesome shape, really good tight fit, deep open skirt etc.. etc.. I think they are a good pellet for springers and readily available, especially if your not able to make an order foe the moment. Might be worth a try for those that havemt and frequent the wally box.
What do you mean by overpriced and how do they shoot?
I tried some of the Gamo domed pellets you speak of about 3 years ago. I believe the can contained 250 pellets, and that proved to be more then enough to me. Towards the end of the tin, I started seeing quite large flakes that had come off the skirts. I started noticing this phenomenon early on, but it wasn’t till I reached the last 50 or so, did I see the extent of the problem. I’ve stayed with JSB, H+N, RWS, and Crosman ever since. My tin might have been a bad one, and I hope Gamo has corrected this problem today, but I subscribe to the old saying, “once bitten, twice shy”
Still not sure, was getting a little excited but I had late night HBO at the same time I was reading this so that might have been the reason rather than this FWB.
Looking to add just one springer with more power than my R7…
Thankyou for your kind words.I only meant to show that a decent well made airgun that costs way less than this new FWB Sport can still shoot as tight as the eye can see. I am aware that springers are more difficult to control compared to pneumatics,but both my R7 and FWB 127 from the 70s shoot zero spreads on occasion at the mere 10m. Its the only distance I have for now in my yard.But I will say this. Once,I took my sheridan to the real rifle range and sitting in one of those rickety old benchs next to guys shooting 30-06s and .223s 5 ft away I managed to squeeze a 7/8″ 5 shot group at 50 yds with the sheridan/4x scoped and crosman premiers. I know I could have done better than that but under those conditions it was still less than one minute of squirrel head..LOL. Anyway, both of my springers are tuned and B.Bs is new out fo the box too so Im sure it will smooth out and he will learn to shoot it better as time goes on. I find most JSBs to be about the best out there,nowadays.Heres a target at 10m with the old FWB 127 and some differant pellets-its a bit clearer.
I’ve got to say, thus far not impressed, and I have owned several Feinwerkbau’s over the years.
In these days of TX200’s, Walther LGU’s, LGV’s and sweet offerings from Weihrauch…….you had better bring something pretty spectacular to the table if you are going to charge 40% more…….you can buy a TX, get a tidy scope and get it pro tuned for the price of that…….
If you are going to pay far in excess of what other premium products are charging, then you had better show why, and it certainly isn’t found in 5 shot groups at 30 feet, my old HW35 can match that……..if those groups hold that size over 10 shots at 50 yards I’ll eat my words.
No, a badly pitched price from a company that can do things well, no excuse for a twangy action and so so finish at that price point at all.
Ferrari, Lamborghini, Rolls Royce…….Premium products with premium prices, but if you own one you understand why, they are the complete package, attention to the tiniest detail, mundane switches like works of art, top quality fit and finish, premium interior materials and design, aplomb and panache……..this Feinwerkbau is trying for that rarified atmosphere, trading on it’s marque…….pitching the cost accordingly….but it’s a house of cards that blows down on some dull blueing or a twangy powerplant
$900 and you get as much spring buzzzz as a $40 B-3………..?? I think I’ll pass on this one. Maybe the Walther LGU will be better.
Perhaps we have reach a stagnant point where there just isnt going to be more improvements coming out of production. Sure we can tune it better and add better parts but not at that price-right. I want Feinwerkbau to stay in the competition and keep things at the peak but somehow I think this one missed some key issues which almost everyone is bringing out. My R7 will blow that 10 shot .35-.4″ group away.And if it perfroms at 10m it will certainly reflect this at 50m if it has the umph. My R7 doesnt but I bet an HW50s in 177cal will equal ot beat this gun at less than half the price. Anyway lets see how this one unfolds and I would like to see FWB make in intermediate spring gun that rivals the R7/R8 . Wouldnt that be sweet! By the way, if FWB doesnt come out with this sporter in 22cal that will make my FWB 127D that much more valuable!!
Isn’t that what W.H.B. Smith said 60 years ago?
First time to discover this site. I soon realized that I have come to the right place, however please excuse me if I am asking this question in the wrong place.
Need some help on how to go about getting my FWB 124 repaired. It is serial #35628, that I purchased around 1980 and is one of my prized possession’s. Any comments on it would be appreciated as I know very little about air rifles. Although it looks like the day it came out of the box, it stopped shooting a couple years ago. It cocks just fine and fires, but without any air pressure. My guess is some seal has dried out. It has not been shot very much and the barrel has never been cleaned for fear of messing it up. Any idea of how much it will cost to repair?
Love this gun for the beauty and craftsmanship but love my Sheridan just as much that still shoots great even though I bought it used back in 1966, amazing!
Here ya go Ron!
Thanks for the link, read every chapter!
Glad I could help! If you go to the top of the page you’ll find a search box. It’ll usually get you close to what you’re looking for.
Still asking the question, who can fix my rifle and about how much will it cost?
First step… Get a bottle of Silicon Chamber Oil (RWS used to market the stuff — you do not want a petroleum based oil [so don’t try Crosman PellGunOil, it’s meant for CO2 and single stroke pneumatics] — Pyramyd should have it… https://www.pyramydair.com/product/rws-air-chamber-lube-dropper-silicone-oil-50-oz?a=3002 )
Drop a moderate amount into the air transfer port, and stand the gun muzzle up. Let it soak in a while. Then try running the piston up and down (don’t go to full cock — you don’t want to have to dry fire it to release the piston). After a few strokes, and maybe a few more drops (not too many), maybe try with a pellet into a good backstop (hope you have a cleaning rod if the pellet moves part-way but doesn’t exit — you’ll have to push it out).
If the oil seems to bring up the pressure, repeat the process of a few drops and standing for a while.
If, after a few days of this, you still don’t get any pressure, you could maybe email Pyramyd Air [I’m presuming a North American address] as they do have a service department.
How did “Silicon” get past me… “SiliconE” chamber oil.
In this case silicone chamber oil won’t help. the seal has dry-rotted.
Your 124 has a dri-rotted piston seal.
Pyramyd Air can fix it for you. I don’t know what it will cost, but if you call them they will be able to tell you. Ask for Tech Support.
Baron, thank you for your reply. That is what I need to do first.