Diana 340 N-TEC Classic air rifle: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Diana N-TEC 340 Classic
Diana N-TEC 340 Classic air rifle

Part 1
Part 2

This report covers:

  • Baracuda Match pellets, 4.50mm head
  • Baracuda Match pellets, 4.53mm head
  • RWS Superdome pellets
  • Fast action
  • Learning the trigger
  • JSB Exact heavy pellets, 10.34 grains
  • The bottom line — so far

Let’s start looking at the accuracy of the Diana 340 N-TEC Classic rifle. I used the open sights that come on the rifle, and I shot at 10 meters today. I did that because air rifles with gas springs are, in my experience, not all that accurate. I did feel the 340 N-TEC is a different breed of gas-spring rifle, but I wanted to play it safe. So, 10 meters off a rest.

Baracuda Match pellets, 4.50mm head

The first pellet I shot was the H&N Baracuda with a 4.50mm head. It hit the target a little high and to the left; so, after shooting the group, I adjusted the sights.

I rested the rifle on my off hand forward on the cocking slot. While that isn’t the classic artillery hold, it does steady the rifle a little better. Ten shots went into 0.65 inches at 10 meters. That isn’t very good for shooting from such a close distance; but for a gas-spring rifle, it’s okay.

Diana N-TEC 340 Classic H&N Baracuda 4.50mm
At 10 meters, 10 H&N Baracuda Match pellets with 4.50mm heads made this 0.65-inch group. It’s vertical, which means my aiming might be off.

The first group is vertical, so my aiming could be off. Vertical groups come from not getting the right front sight height in the rear notch. Horizontal groups are usually the rifle’s fault — at least they are for me.

Baracuda Match pellets, 4.53mm head

Next, I tried Baracuda Match pellets with 4.53mm heads. I didn’t know what to expect; but when I saw the wide group they made, I knew they weren’t the right pellets for the 340 N-TEC. I also tried them and the 4.50mm Baracuda Match pellets with my off hand touching the triggerguard, but it didn’t seem to matter. Both shot about the same, though the impact points were different.

Diana N-TEC 340 Classic H&N Baracuda 4.53mm
Ten Baracuda Match pellets with 4.53mm heads went into 0.836 inches at 10 meters. This is also not a good pellet in this rifle.

RWS Superdome pellets

Next up were RWS Superdome pellets. They don’t have a head size marked on the tin, but my new pellet gauge says they are a uniform 4.51mm. They produced an odd group. Seven shots went into a spectacular 0.148 inches, but 3 other pellets opened that up to 0.817 inches. While the numbers don’t look good, my instincts are telling me that this is a potentially accurate pellet. That’s based on that small central group. This pellet will get a second chance at 25 yards with a scoped rifle.

Diana N-TEC 340 Classic RWS Superdome
Ten Superdomes made this 0.817-inch group at 10 meters, but 7 of them went into just 0.148 inches. This is a pellet to consider!

Fast action

This 340 N-TEC is one of the fastest spring-piston actions I’ve ever seen. I would say that it’s the fastest, but I tend to forget things these days, so I might have seen another rifle just as fast. The instant the trigger breaks the pellet is at the target. There’s virtually no movement to the rifle other than the pulse of the shot. This is one very smooth gas spring, considering all the power it has!

Learning the trigger

I am also learning the feel of the trigger. While it has a vague second stage, I can now feel where it begins. Stage one is a bit creepy, which throws me off at first, because this trigger is so light. The rifle fired several times before I was ready for it. Fortunately, I was in position, so it caused no problems.

JSB Exact heavy pellets, 10.34 grains

The last pellet I tried was the JSB Exact heavy 10.34-grain dome. These also had very uniform 4.51mm heads, in spite of the tin being marked 4.52mm! That gauge is becoming handier and handier.

Ten of them went into a very round group measuring 0.432 inches at 10 meters. That’s definitely worth a spot in the 25-yard test!

Diana N-TEC 340 Classic JSB Exact
Ten JSB Exact Heavy 10.34-grain domes went into this nice round 0.432-inch group at 10 meters. Given that I used open sights, I’ll take it!

The bottom line — so far

So far, I’m impressed by the Diana 340 N-TEC rifle. It’s smoother than any gas-spring rifle of the same power I’ve tested, and also more accurate. The trigger takes some getting used to, but it’s light. The rifle can be cocked with one hand, which isn’t that common in a powerful gas-spring rifle. If you’re looking at getting a spring gun with a gas spring, I would watch this one very closely.

I’ll mount a scope and shoot the rifle at 25 yards. Hopefully, it’ll continue to impress.

50 thoughts on “Diana 340 N-TEC Classic air rifle: Part 3

  1. Really like Diana 340 N-TEC Classic air rifle-report! My interest is in the Diana 340 N-TEC Luxus air rifle! But? New gun in town Walther Terrus air rifle? Semper fi!


  2. I’m looking at getting a new break barrel in .22 caliber and the 340 N-Tec Premium is one of the rifles on my list, the others are the HW95, HW80 and LGV Master. I was hoping for a better trigger since the T06 has a good reputation but if the 340 N-Tec can shoot I may forgive the shortcomings to get the power along with accuracy. What’s going on with availability though, all Diana models not just the 340N-Tec are out of stock with a due date of 8/8/2015?

    David


    • PO,

      The new owners may still be moving the factory to the new location (wild guess)?

      Maybe they are drying up the old stock so they can raise the prices (another wild guess)?

      Maybe they moved the factory and laid off the old workers in the process and have hired young, inexperienced workers at a lower wage to replace them and have found they can no longer build air rifles (another wild guess, but probably closer to the truth)?

      I have been reading of some quality control issues with the N-TEC. We’ll see if BB begins to experience some of those issues before he is done with this one.



      • RidgeRunner,

        The Diana rifles that are NOT co-branded as RWS are imported in small quantities for the U.S. market. When those quantities are shipped to retailers, the importer probably isn’t reordering replenishments to hold for possible future orders. Because these guns are higher priced, I’m guessing they aren’t expected to sell as well. No one wants a huge inventory of pricey Diana rifles that don’t have a proven sales track record. So, if you really want one of these guns, order when they’re in stock or pre-order so you’re first in line for the next import. You can always cancel the pre-order if you decide you don’t want it…and you can always return purchases to Pyramyd Air within 30 days if a product displeases you.

        Edith


        • Hello Edith,

          I think you may have done so before, but I can’t find where, would you please explain the what / why of why some Diana air rifles have RWS branding and some do not? Are all Diana rifles imported by Umarex, irrespective of the RWS co-branding?

          Thank you!

          Jim M.


          • Jim,

            I wrote the following comment on April 8, 2015:

            The Diana guns sold and marketed by Umarex and co-branded with RWS (which will be written right next to the Diana name) have a limited lifetime warranty. The Diana guns not also marked with the RWS brand have a 2-year warranty. Umarex USA still brings them into the U.S., but they do not put RWS on them.

            For instance, look at these Diana guns, which are listed as RWS Diana or Diana RWS. They have limited lifetime warranties:
            https://www.pyramydair.com/m/RWS_Air_guns/44/588

            Then, look at these Diana guns, which are imported by Umarex USA but are not co-branded as RWS. They have a 2-year warranty:
            https://www.pyramydair.com/m/Diana_Air_guns/301/588

            If you look thru each list, you’ll see that both have the RWS 350 Magnum listed — at very different prices.

            Edith



  3. BB,

    I really like hearing about that shot cycle and I really like what I see with the RWS and the JSB. I am still bothered by that trigger though. As you may recall, I am very fond of light triggers, however with mine I have a very positive and crisp let off, not a guessing game. Like you said though, it may be that first stage is throwing you off. I know you like a good bit of travel on your first stage, but with this one you may need to adjust most of it out.



  4. This comment was never posted, so I am doing it.

    It is possible to adjust the trigger properly with the original screws.

    I`ve found several sources online that states that the first stage screw is too short, but that is not true. I bought a 340 Luxus (full length, not pro\professional) last week and mine also had a horrible trigger when I got it. I read what I found online about the N-TEC T06 and was prepared to go to the local hardware store to pick up some longer screws when I found one guy on a forum who said that he managed to adjust his T06 with the original screws. He had used a guide that he found on youtube. search for “t06 Diana trigger adjustment” (that is the exact name of the video) and you will find it. My trigger now has a short first stage and a very noticeable “stop” before the gun fires. There`s no movement at stage two that I can feel, I only feel that the pull weight increases a little bit and then it fires.

    I found the T06 to be harder to adjust than both the Rekord and the Air Arms CD, but it would probably have been a lot easier to adjust (fine tune) if it was correctly adjusted at the factory to begin with.

    The trigger is now almost as good as my Rekords. The trigger blade on the T06 has way too much sideways slop before the gun is cocked and the first stage is a little bit smoother on the Rekords, but it still is a very good trigger. I also set the the trigger blade back a little bit because I have small hands. The video shows how. I`m not sure about the let-off weight, but it feels light. I have a digital gauge so I can measure it later.

    Mine is strangely enough the German freimark (I learned that word from you) version – pentagon F \ 7,5 Joules – even though we have no power restrictions here in Norway. It did come with another gas strut that says <16J, but I haven`t installed it yet. Probably won`t for a while either.

    I haven`t gotten to shoot it much yet, but so far I like it. It is surprisingly easy to cock for such a large air rifle, thanks to the 7,5J gas spring. It seems to be accurate, but I have only tested it at ~8 meters in my basement with the original open sights. There`s no twang or vibrations, only a "thwack" sound when it fires. And it is really good looking. I`ve always thought that the stock on the Diana 34 looked cheap and simple, but this one looks like it belongs on a german quality air gun. The size and weight is comparable to my HW95, but this one is a little bit longer. The blueing is a little bit nicer on the HW95 but the stock on the 340 is a lot nicer than the original HW95 stock.

    jet1991 – Norway




      • I can tell you how I adjusted mine. It could actually be both faster and easier than watching the video.

        I just turned the screw for the first stage all the way in (it has a shoulder that stops it) and then loosened it slightly (out again). Maybe half a turn. Then I was able to adjust in the second stage by adjusting only the second stage screw. I could also feel how I moved the second stage by pulling the trigger blade between adjustments. Yes, without setting the trigger, because you can easily feel which way the second stage is being moved when the trigger hasn`t been set. You want to adjust in a lot of movement and creep in the trigger at first to make sure that it can be adjusted with the first stage screw in it`s current position. If not, then try again with the first stage screw out another half turn and maybe more depending on how large the tolerances can be between different rifles.

        I got a trigger with a very long first stage but with a crisp break with the first stage screw in the almost completely screwed in position. But I shortened the first stage afterwards by balancing the first and second stage screws. But to get a crisp break this is not necessary.

        The trigger can very easily be set without cocking the gun and without removing anything like you would have to on a Rekord or CD. When you remove the stock, you can see that there is a part of the trigger linkage that`s sticking out of the lower part of the trigger unit in front of the trigger blade. This part can be pushed forward with a screwdriver. Push it until you hear a click and then the trigger has been set. This part only need to be pushed 1\4 inch or so and it`s not hard to push. The video shows this if you are in doubt what I mean.

        Make sure to cock the gun properly and fine tune the trigger by fireing with pellets after you are happy with the way the trigger feels when just setting the trigger.

        The first stage screw is the one that`s to the front of the gun in the trigger blade and the second stage screw is the one that`s behind the first stage screw, also on the trigger blade. The last screw behind the trigger blade and on the trigger unit is the let-off weight adjustment.

        I have my let-off weight adjustment screw backed all the way out. One thing that I observed is that the screws in the trigger blade has to be fine tuned after you have adjusted this screw. This is because this screw will affect the relationship between the first and second stage.

        It is possible to set back the trigger, but I will not recommend doing this because you need to bend a pot metal tab to do so. That tab might break if you bend it too much and then you will have a problem.

        jet1991 – Norway




    • There are some engineering hurdles, there. Unlike breakbarrels, under/sidelever guns have no built-in way to keep the piston in a fixed orientation, which is necessary to keep the piston skirt latch slot aligned with the trigger.


  5. BB,
    if you sort the pellets by weight and then by head size how many good pellets you get from a tin? What is most important, weight or head size? And what about skirt size. I think you just gave all these long range accuracy lovers another variable(s) to deal with.


    • Bullseye,

      Whats good? Whats better? Just another thought,….if the pellet meets any resistance, and you “force” it in,.. with however much effort,…you have now effectivly “sized” the head and skirt to your (own) barrel. The issue then becomes a matter of (interfearance fit). Just a thought.

      Chris


  6. I’m also looking at getting a spring piston myself to add to my collection. I just have to convince my wife to let me spend the money after spending so much on my Air force system. I can only blame BB because he keeps reporting about all of these awesome airguns.

    I’ve had really good luck with RWS pellets in general. For 10 meter, I like the Meisterkuglen and anything further out I like the RWS Superdomes. I’ve never had much luck with pointed pellets.


  7. B.B.,

    Someone mentioned earlier that there is a new gun on the block and then named the Walther Terrus which you have already begun testing. However, there is another new rifle, the Walther LGV Master. At least I think it’s new. I have been unable to figure out exactly what is new about it except for one thing: it has the same stock as the LGU. The LGV Master that P.A. stocks still has the original LGV wood stock. Even if you do not plan on testing this rifle will you please try and find out what the basic differences are between the original LGV and the new LGV Master? I will greatly appreciate it. It’s been bugging me ever since I first saw it on the Airgun Gear Show.

    G&G



    • G&G,

      Okay here is the answer. To sum up in two words, the difference is the stock.

      Both the LGV Master and Master Ultra originally came out as one of the 5 LGV models. So there is no one singular LGV. There were 5 different ones.

      The new rifle is called the LGV Master Pro. It was shown at IWA this year. It has no open sights, a fixed cheekpiece that is higher and on an angle so you can find the scope by repositioning your face on the cheekpiece, A more vertical grip to make the trigger closer, and an adjustable rubber buttpad.

      B.B.


  8. With my collection of great spring rifles, I’ve never paid attention to gas springs, so I’ve never noticed that they are not as accurate. Seems strange too. You would think that the gas omits the moving mass that the source of much spring gun inaccuracy.

    Mike, no need to spend $2,000 on the Galil. American Rifleman has tried it for you. With Federal match ammo, their best 5 shot group was .83 MOA. The average for match ammo was .98 MOA. With Romanian surplus, they got 1.83 MOA. Coming from American Rifleman, these results got my attention. One of the drawbacks to accuracy for the AK design is supposed to be the large moving mass of the piston. But that sounds similar to a spring gun, and I wonder if it can be compensated for as well.

    Interesting that the rise of the 1911 came about in competition which seems to give it the mark of authenticity. There was a lot of sentimental support for the M1A in competition, but that didn’t keep it around when the AR-15 started winning. Successful competition must mean that the gun really can perform. That is especially surprising given that I think the format would favor large magazines which is not a strong point of the 1911 design. As yet more proof, my understanding is that the only rival of the 1911 in competition is the CZ 75. It is the gun used by a 19 year old Russian girl who is just phenomenal, Maria Gruschenka or something like that; she handily defeated our superstar, Julie Golob, who I believe is the captain of Team Smith & Wesson. She was shooting a Tanfoglio Witness that is a clone of the CZ. I believe that the CZ is heavily based on the Browning Hi Power and the 1911, so the same design succeeds twice, and John Browning appears again.

    Matt61


  9. B.B.

    Why is it so hard to design a good trigger? More than half of all air guns, Gammo, Crossman, Benjaman, Hatsan(not so much) have inferior triggers. The hardest part of shooting well is trigger release. Inferior triggers make this MUCH more difficult. Sure the Rekord and the CD are fine triggers at a high price point, but as you proved with the Bronco, you can design a good trigger on an inexpensive(cheap) air rife. Maybe you could go a report on the Bronco design process.
    Thanks and great article!

    Yogi


    • Yogi,

      It’s not hard to design a good trigger. What is hard is to design a trigger that the corporate lawyers will approve of.

      Airgun manufacturers pay huge premiums to protect themselves against litigation. When some person shoots another person with an airgun and claims it was an accident, the gun manufacturer’s lawyers have to prove that their products are not prone to accidental discharge.

      While there have been some poor trigger designs over the years that can discharge accidentally (the BSF triggers come to mind), most triggers require some positive action to initiate them. But in court, where the judge and sometimes the jury, knows very little about proper gun handling procedures and safe practices, they will often rule that deliberate acts are accidents. The plaintiff’s lawyers try to get the jury to vote on their feelings, rather than on the facts of the case. People seem to enjoy making decisions based on their feelings.

      So the gun manufacturer’s lawyers have to insist that the triggers on the guns their company makes are not subject to accidents under any circumstances. That’s where “lawyer triggers” come from.

      If people were made to be responsible for their own actions we wouldn’t need such things, but in this day and age, people want someone else to bear the brunt of the responsibility.

      B.B.


  10. BB or anyone else who can answer.

    I did some 50 yard shooting today, sight ins and some groups using my FX Bobcat .22. After getting it sighted in I shot some groups and I had some great 7-9 shot groups but seemed that the POI was off on one or two of the shots in each string. I have a centerpoint 4×16 mounted and AO adjusted for 50 yards and mag set at 10x. I have some issues with keeping the parallax or dark ring from staying out of the scope. I plan on mounting a nicer scope in the future, but will adjustable rings or higher ring mounts help with the parallax?


    • RPM,

      I don’t understand what you are saying. “I have some issues with keeping the parallax or dark ring from staying out of the scope” What does that mean? What dark ring? Are you saying the image in the scope goes dark?

      From what I read it sounds like this scope is not positioned correctly for you.

      B.B.


      • Yes, the scope image. I almost need to press my cheek into the rifle for my eye to line up properly to get the proper eye relief. I have the scope mounted about 3″ from my eye


        • RPM,

          Okay. I understand. So the scope is mounted in the wrong position? What you need to do is figure where the right position would be and what it will take to mount it there.

          The way you are describing it, your scope is mounted too low. If it were a little higher would the image then be clear? If so, you have your answer.

          B.B.


          • Yes, I think that’s what I need, I feel that I’m straining to look into the scope. I’ll look into some higher or adjustable rings and report back. However, when I was getting it right tho. aww man was it nice seeing the pellet hit the same hole over and over!


    • As B.B.said,it sound s like you should try sliding the scope back or forward in it’s mounts and if that’s not enough you may actually have to move the mounts themselves.but your mounts could be too high or low if you’re having To strain for proper alignment.


  11. BB,

    I want to ask you a question unrelated to this post. About 6 weeks ago I purchased an AirForce Talon SS with a 0.177 caliber barrel. In addition, I bought a supplemental 24″ 0.22 caliber barrel along with a Micro Meter tank.

    With the 24″ barrel installed, I’ve found I get more shots per tank with either the standard tank or MM tank installed than with the 12″ barrel. Based on your previous writings, I understand the increase in velocity with the 24″ barrel. What I didn’t expect is almost double the number of shots with the 24″ barrel versus the 12″ barrel.

    Do you or any other Posters know why the 24″ barrel is so efficient versus the stock 12″ barrel? Thank you in advance for your advice.


    • Spidey,

      By “getting shots” are you talking about shooting small groups or about velocity numbers?

      I do expect the 24-inch barrel to be more efficient than the 12-inch barrel, and a .22 caliber barrel to be more efficient than a .177, but I would not expect the shot count to double. Maybe 10 more per fill.

      The .177 is choking the airflow, where the .22 is more open. The same air (or even more) is needed to do the same job (or less) pushing the .177 pellet.

      B.B.



      • Rev,

        That sounds very logical. BB pointed out in a couple of his reviews of the Talon SS that the airgun is best in 0.22 caliber with a 24″ barrel. The stock 0.177 works great up to 25 meters. It stacks pellets at 10 meters. That said, I agree with BB about the 24″ barrel. It will shoot accurately out to 50 meters and what I’ve found is it’s very efficient on air use. I would estimate it gets 50% more shots with the 24″ barrel installed on the standard tank and double the shots with the micro meter tank.

        I have zero complaints about the Talon SS. Just that question about air efficiency between the 12″ barrel and the 24″ barrel which I believe you answered the question. Thank you very much for your input.


  12. Mr. B.B, Mrs. Gaylord,
    I think I’ve done something different, I’ve over flared the pellet skirt then forced them through a .1875 drill bushing
    and got some good results in grouping. I think by using a piece of soda straw over the head of the pellet will get me perfect alignment. By the way I made an arbor press for this test. Please have a look.
    T.T. https://twitter.com/P40Tomahawk




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