by B.B. Pelletier
Photos and testing by Earl “Mac” McDonald
RWS Diana 45 is a magnum springer from the past.
Well, Mac has been testing this rifle for us, and a lot of you have commented that you like what you see. It does look nice in contrast to today’s magnum blasters. In its day, it was considered the most powerful of magnum springers, but those days are long past and now the rifle looks like a classic sweetie.
I do have to tell you, though, there are two sides to this rifle. For every smooth shooter like the one Mac is testing, there are other 45s that buck and buzz terribly. This seems to be independent of caliber or the year of manufacture. I just want you to be aware of that if you decide to get one for yourself.
I normally don’t write the finish before describing how we got there, but Mac was disappointed by the accuracy of his 45 until he discovered its secret. So, I want to share that with you now. To be accurate in this rifle, a pellet needs to fit the bore tightly. If he had known that in the beginning, this test would have been conducted differently. But he didn’t, so here’s how it went.
All shooting is off a rest at 30 yards outdoors. H&N Diabolo Sport wadcutters were up first and they not only fit the bore loosely, they’re also wadcutters that normally aren’t accurate beyond about 25 yards. The faster they go, the quicker the accuracy falls away. In this case, 10 shots ripped a group that measured 2.1 inches in diameter. Of the groups shown, this pellet is clearly the worst.
Ten H&N Diabolo Sport wadcutter pellets made this 2.1-inch group at 30 yards.
Next, Mac tried JSB Jumbo Exact Express domes. These lighter 14.3-grain domes sometimes do very well, but once again, these did not fit the bore of Mac’s test rifle very well. Ten of them made a 1.1-inch group at 30 yards. That isn’t horrible, but we would always like to do better, if possible.
Compared to the target above, this looks like a huge improvement. Actually, it is considered usable accuracy for hunting at this range. Ten JSB Exact Express domes went into 1.1-inches at 30 yards.
The next pellet Mac tried was the venerable RWS Superdome. He likes that pellet a lot and always seems to get better results from it. This time, 10 pellets went smaller than one inch at 30 yards, vindicating his position.
Ten RWS Superdomes went into this group measuring 0.97 inches at 30 yards.
Crosman Premier pellets were the tightest in Mac’s barrel. Part of that may be due to the harder lead, but they also fit the bore tightly. And, they grouped the best in this test. Ten shots clustered into a tight 0.76-inch group, which is exceptional accuracy. Remember, these are 10-shot groups, not 5-shot, which are much easier to shoot.
A great group of 10 Crosman Premiers went into this group measuring 0.76 inches at 30 yards.
Mac also tried JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy and HyperMAX pellets, but the groups were too large to measure, as not all pellets hit the target paper. He tried Eley Wasps, as well, but didn’t make a report on them because we cannot get them here in the U.S. I would imagine they did worse than the Premiers but better than just about anything else. But that’s only a guess.
Thanks to Mac, we’ve seen what a vintage breakbarrel rifle could do. The RWS Diana 45 is held in high regard by many airgunners who remember the heady days in the late 1970s and the shattering of the 800 f.p.s. barrier. Now, we have some real data to go with all the fond memories. Thanks, Mac!
53 thoughts on “RWS Diana model 45 – Part 3”
This peek at the recent past had a happy ending.Quite a contrast between the good group and the bad ones.
Pete Zimmerman,if you will send me an Email,I will gladly show you quite an assortment of pre 1990
10 meter rifles.Not to try to sell you necessarily,glad to share them with you.But I can’t shoot them
all,and I am running out of room 🙂 firstname.lastname@example.org
Once again, that’s some impressive shooting! As they say, the gun will perform if you do your part.
What are the shooting characteristics of this gun? Does it have a lot of kick, or is it smoother than most modern break-barrels?
NOTE FOR GAMO OWNERS: Charlie the Tuna will be making “A REPLACEMENT TRIGGER BLADE FOR THE GAMO (modular) PLASTIC TRIGGER and will hopefully be ready for production sometime shortly after the first of the year.”
God news, Victor, thank you!
Those Crosman Premieres look like the ticket, and as a general rule, isn’t a tight fit good for accuracy in general?
I’d like to have a Gamo Big Cat, but the thing doesn’t come with sights and it’s hard to keep a scope on one. But lo and behold, here’s the same gun with sights, called the Whisper. Oh, and it has a goofy little silencer on it, that’s kinda cool. But you it seems Big-5 wants something like $100 more for those two features. Oh well can’t afford it anyway.
i had to put down a banty rooster who had no place in the scheme of things around here and since he’s a little old and there wouldn’t be that much of him to eat, I elected to simply kill him and bury him under a black walnut tree I plan to turn into a producing english walnut tree later, by grafting.
So, when he ended up in the trap, I ended it all with a .22 CB Long, but I tried an experiment – I “dum-dum’d” the bullet by cutting the tip off to make a flat tip. The result was not pretty, but it showed how simply a flat tip can make a big difference on game. So now I’m torn whether to make a device to make CB’s into hollowpoints or simply a device to cut the tips off square, perpendicular to the long axis.
I tried that with high speed long rifles a long time ago. I filed the tips down as far as flush with the bearing surface. They were not very accurate, but they knocked the snot out of things .
Yep the little ‘speriment was for testing snot-knocking ability not grouping. The longest shot I’ve made with this particular rifle is 15 feet.
I remember a device I saw a long time ago for hollowpointing bullets.
You put the round in the end which was a holder and a guide, then used the other part that had a small drill bit in it to do the job. You inserted the drill bit into the hole and turned it until you had it hollow pointed to your likes.
If you are going to hollowpoint very slow ammo like cb it would have to be a pretty good sized hollow point to be effective. You would end up with ammo that is not very accurate in the first place and making it even worse.
I got hold of some Winchester subsonic hp one time. Not very loud. The hollow points resembled the large deep point of Remington Yellow Jackets. Not all that great for accuracy, but they were pretty quiet and knocked down tree rats very well. The sound of the impact was louder than the muzzle blast.
The Remington sub-sonic hollowpoints shoot pretty good for me. I think they would knock down a squirrel just fine, although I doubt they will mushroom much (good to prevent excess damage). They look like solids until you see the little dimple on the front.
I love the Remington Subsonic load. I just bought another 1000 rounds of it yesterday. Good utility round, not too loud, kills a possum just fine. On smaller game, that rooster you can’t trap, squirrels, etc you don’t want to use a hollowpoint or dum-dum where it can ruin the meat. I killed a full sized rooster with an unmodified CB, and it was interesting. the bullet went through the lungs and left a track along one side of the heart, the rooster died pretty quick. We made a coq au vin of him and he was friggin’ delicious! The heart and liver were fried and delicious! Halfway between store chicken and the foie gras I tried in a restaurant once. Yum! Chicken physiology is pretty different and the shot actually went in one thigh, and across the heart/lung area and almost all the way out the other side, chest wall. Head shots are problematical unless you’re VERY sure you can hit like, in the eye. Seriously. Roosters are built to fight and their heads are TOUGH. Possums got hard heads too. I have literally not even sighted this rifle in, I think it’s just a little low and left but not sure. I need to set up a really safe backstop and sight it in for those “surgical” shots, I got a trashy little scope at Wally’s for it too. I do not like to make shots I am not really sure of.
We ate a huge old rooster one time that is still my gold standard for chicken flavor — if you have the time to cook it :). Do the Remington SSHP expand enough to hurt meat? I haven’t ever played with them until recently, and that was just shooting a target.
I shot Mr. Eatin’ Rooster with an unmodified CB Long, aimed for the “boiler room” and got it, he squawked, ran under a tree about 10ft away, lay down and died. Massive internal bleeding around the lungs and a possible heart attack – the bullet scored one side of the heart and that probably was good for an arrythmia.
For small animals I’m gonna eat, nope no hollow points for me, too destructive. For squirrels, ideally, I’d use unmodified CB’s and have my rifle all dialed in so I could do head shots, not gonna eat the head. I shot this rooster I mention here with a dum-dummed bullet because I’d decided I was not going to eat him and so he was a good subject to try the experiment on.
On cooking the old birds, the land owner here and I scalded and plucked him, then he put the rooster in a crock pot overnight. Then the meat was taken off of the bones and put in a pyrex dish with carrots and potatoes and a bit of vermouth and olive oil, and baked for a bit, maybe an hour? I think a little less. It was really good. As you say, a gold standard for chicken flavor.
No I’d not use a hollow point on a chicken you’re going to eat. Just too destructive. Think like an archer, you want a narrow wound that doesn’t damage a lot of stuff, just goes through the heart/lung area because you can’t shoot a bird there and have him not die. I would only use a hollow point on an eating animal, for a head shot and that only works if you know for dang sure you can hit the critter accurately, a one-shot kill. Generally no one eats the head so a hollow point would be an advantage there, because of the shock.
I also remember the device you are talking about and will stir the brain cells about for its name. Did it start with a G or maybe an H?
Frank, how about including me when you send out that email on your pre 1990 10 meter target rifles. Thanks.
I don’t remember what that thing was called. Saw it in one of the shooting magazines a very long time ago.
Really just worthless when you could just go out and buy a box of Super-X HP.
I settled on Super-X solids for my rifle. Shot better than the HP.
You can make such a die from a piece of oil -hardening steel rod. First bore a .226 through it.Then face it to a length of .875. Harden it, and insert a live long rifle RF round in the now finished die, and file down the bullet’s point flat with the face of the die. There also have been a couple who have sold such a die. one of them I believe is Paco Kelly. CCI ‘s small game loads ,if they shoot well for you, are also very good small game rounds,Robert.
I’d love to be able to produce a professional grade die, but I don’t have the tools or skills. But seeing the effect of dum-dum’ing the CB bullet, really, a person could just take a piece of tubing that’s the size to put the round in with the nose just peeking out, then trim that flush with a razor blade, x-acto knife, pocket knife. The lead used in these is really soft. I was thinking that a hollow point made sense, after all, Colibris are hollowpoints. But just flattening that nose seems to work fine.
Trimming ’em all down uniformly, from a uniform jig, will help keep them accurate. But how *inaccurate* can one of these things be, shot at 10-25 meters? That remains to be seen, I’d like to test it and anyone else, I encourage to test it also.
Ah yes, Premiers. Never really shot anything else in mine (a .177). As I recall, my ’45 was just about my most accurate breakbarrel when I tested a bunch of them at 60 yards. I’m not gonna bore you with the details of the exact group sizes because a) it’s embarassing and b) I don’t remember (outside the fact that group size was embarassing). And BB’s right – I seem to remember mine being real buzzy before I did the usual stuff to it.
No matter, it’s still far and away the best $60 air gun I ever bought.
How is Tom doing today?
The blood work for yesterday’s procedure revealed he had two infections, and he got 2 antibiotic prescriptions. One of them is notorious for causing severe nausea. This morning, we tackled that issue too late. He’s napping now, so it might be a bit better. I have a new prescription for anti-nausea medicine that should help him a lot.
He’s eating more than we thought and his drainage is down. He’s not his peppy old self right now, but I’m hoping that when he wakes up from his nap things will be better. Also, we’ll stay on top of that nausea issue.
Tom’s sister from Boise flew in last night. He accompanied me to the airport to pick her up, and that really drained him. But, he insisted. More relatives are arriving today.
Christmas is coming!
Thanks for the update Edith. Tell Tom howdy and to rest up and get ready for Xmas dinner.
Tom’s Sister in Boise??? I’m in Meridian, 5 miles west of Boise! Go figure!
Was hoping yesterdays procedure was to remove the drain. This is draining me. Can only imagine what this protracted ordeal is doing to you. Glad to hear that you’ve got the second string arriving! A very Merry Christmas to the Gaylord household! 2011 will be a great year!
you have my sympathies as you appear to be contracting this very contagious disease of airgun collecting. Let us know what particular aspect of airguns you finally decide to specialize in, if any. There have been plenty of tips on this blog on how to go about it and where to find these rare artifacts. I’ll be glad to share my discoveries if you want but folks like Kevin, Mac, BB and Frank BC (Godfather, may I use you as a reference 🙂 ) will probably have some excellent ideas for you – and are certainly more experienced at this game than my humble self.
Have fun – you now have a hobby – another one.
The mount I ordered was too short, so I have ordered the high mount for the 124. I don’t know if any body wants the 30mm one piece mount will hold 44mm lens with out an AO.
Probably a stupid question but can you return the mount for a refund? I rarely sell scope mounts since I like to have multiple options already on hand for the next airgun. Almost everytime I’ve sold one I end up needing it in a few months.
Here’s a good place to sell used airguns and airgun related stuff (like scope mounts) . Before you post anything, please read the POSTING GUIDELINES at the top. Most important rule is that you need to name your price when you offer something for sale. This is not an auction site like ebay:
How about a review of the HW90 with the theoben gas ram? Also a comparison with the original Benjamin/Crosman NPSS as far as in actual use?
Pyramyd Air sells Weirauch and this rifle is one of interest but I am not seeing any testing or reviews of it. Can you do one???
Technically the HW90 has a gas spring powerplant. While we’re being technical, the HW90 is almost identical to the Beeman RX, Beeman RX-1 and Beeman RX-2.
The differences between the RX and RX-1 is the 2 stage ajustable trigger. The difference between an RX-1 and RX-2 is beech stock vs. laminated stock. Another difference was the very early RX models did not have the same receiver. Instead of using blind holes drilled for scope stop pins, they used shallow milled flats across the top of the receiver. On the RX2, the trigger assembly is flush with the stock. While on the early RX’s the trigger assembly hangs down about 1/2″ below the stock.
These are all very well made guns with a cult like following. A common problem is people over pressurize the gas spring using the shrader valve. B.B. did an article on these gas ram/gas spring guns already. Here’s the link:
You may want to read his series on the NPSS guns as well to make a comparison. Here’s a link to part 3 of the benjamin NP nitro piston article. Click on part 1 then part 2 at the top to read them in order:
Hope you’re doing much better, and enjoying the stress of watching your cats cope with all the holiday strangers in the house.
I come late to the party as usual, but noticed that not too many took you up on the challenge of identifying what was wrong with those very interesting photos in yesterday’s post. So here goes (from a schmuck who knows nothing about guns except which end the little flying thing that kills you comes out of):
Insulting picture #1:
2) Much too low resolution. Can’t zoom in to really see detail.
3) Only shows one side of gun.
“So close on this one” pic:
1) Foreshortened shot shows detail only of least interesting part of the rifle.
2) Chose the less important side. The business side where the bolt and breech are, are hidden.
“Classic Mistake” pic:
1) Wasted a lot of space with extraneous pixels around the gun.
2) Detracted from the pistol with pictures of two magazines that appear unrelated to, and seemingly too big for, this gun.
“Another classic gun photo mistake”:
1) Rested black gun on a black object, destroying contrast.
2) Allowed ancient-type cellphone to be visible in picture, revealing thereby that picture was probably taken a long time ago and might not be current.
So…. how’d I do?
Sorry for the blunder I was bum bed out about the mount.I gave 70.00 something for it and would pay the shipping to get my money back. I don’t think I will use another 30mm scope but you never know. I did not open the package so I can return it. On the bright side I set up a rest and ran 10 rounds of gamo competition and had a group 1/2″ wide by 1 1/4″ high. I switched over to the FTS’s and big difference. Shot lot better group. On the forth round started changing the rest around and shot 10 shot group easily covered with a dime.I don’t know if its me or what, but the first round is the lowest of the group.The trigger is long and about 5 lbs. any suggestions. It seems to be a metal stamped trigger. PS Many thanks to you and the others that have offered tips along the way and happy holidays to all.
Your post made me smile. Glad to hear those groups are shrinking. Are you shooting with open sights or did you use a different mount and scope?
The trigger on the fwb 124 can be improved from your current 5 lb pull. Some of the early models had plastic triggers. Yours sounds like metal? The fwb 124 trigger is an ultrasimple trigger design.
It consists of 3 main pieces and two small coil springs.
You have an upper sear/piston latch combo, a lower sear and the trigger blade itself. The larger of the two springs is captured on a tab on the safety slider and this spring goes thru a slot in the upper sear into a recessed “hole” in the lower sear. This spring creates both the sear latching pressure and the trigger pull tension. The other smaller spring fits in a hole in front of the trigger and applies a slight push to the bottom of the upper sear/piston latch.
The trigger adjusting screw that passes thru the trigger blade itself does two things. Screwing it in (up) increases the height of the first stage ‘bump’, which in turn reduces the amount of sear engagement. At the same time, this bump is now pushing harder against the bottom of the lower sear, which increases the tension on both the sear and the trigger. What you wind up with is a trigger that is firmer and the sear releases quicker.. a bit less creep because of less sear engagment. The second stage is merely a molded in bump on the trigger which is permanently fixed. If you screw the trigger adj screw in too far, you totally negate the 2nd stage bump because the first stage will use all the sear travel and release before the second stage bump is ever encountered.
Conversely.. by backing off on the adjusting screw, you can make the trigger softer because you’re reducing the upward tension on the lower sear and lowering the pull tension at the same time. You may actually achieve a kind of two stage feel because both the first and second stage contact points are brought into play, but- it’ll be a creepy, long travel.
For such a superbly made and expensive airgun, this system is really barely adequate for those who like near match grade triggers in a field gun. It simply does the job, and- you can get used to it if you don’t use other airguns with superior triggers too often. There is often a temptation by some FWB owners to modify/regrind the sear pieces to reduce the amount of creep, but I don’t care for that idea. You won’t find any spare parts if you screw it up, and you’ll ruin an otherwise fine airgun. Hope this helped. This trigger info is courtesy of Russ Best.
Jim Macarri (Air Rifle Headquarters) makes an aftermarket trigger for the fwb 124 that is a dramatic improvement from the factory trigger. It appears that he’s out of them but you may want to keep an eye on his site for when he makes more of them. Usually they sell out quickly when he re-lists them for sale. You can also email to get an idea when they’ll be re-stocked. Here’s a link to the page for the fwb 124 stuff he makes:
Comparing a rifle like the RWS 54 to itself in .177 versus .22 caliber, would the .22 version be more accurate at closer range, like 10 or 20 meters, for example?
Is it correct to assume that the .22 version would be more accurate at distances of, say, 35 or 50 meters?
Accuracy isn’t really dependent on caliber. With comparable pellets accuracy should also be comparable. Either gun, at 10 yards, is capable of sub-1/4″ groups. At longer ranges the lighter .177 might be more susceptible to wind, but it also spends less time getting to the target and it presents a smaller silhouette to the wind which might counteract these tendencies to a certain extent.
I’d suggest that caliber selection should really be driven by intended use or personal preference.
I happened to run into specs for a particular rifle (don’t remember which), where they provided the accuracy for both .22 and .177. The distance was not long, maybe 20 yards. They stated a better accuracy for the .177. If this is typical, then I’d also expect that because of the mass of a .22, that it would be more consistent at longer range. You see, one thing that really interest me is seeing how accurate a air-rifle can be at up to 75, or even 100 yards. Over time, I’ve read lots of blogs and reviews (but mostly here, of course), and there are a lot of interesting claims.
You see, I don’t consider myself a “plinker”, BUT if I did (maybe shooting soda cans, for example), then it would be more interesting for me to do so at longer ranges (minimum 50 yards). I have lots of friends who aren’t “shooters”, but they can enjoy an outing in the desert to plink. This is something that I’d like to do. Otherwise, I mostly enjoy shooting targets. I have a yard range in my back yard.
“…one thing that really interest me is seeing how accurate a air-rifle can be at up to 75, or even 100 yards.”
Me too. I spend more time shooting for accuracy, punching little holes in paper, than I plink. I like both though.
I’ll share the little I’ve learned. When you start talking about shooting airguns for accuracy at 75-100 yards you’ve got to be ready for the challenge. If you’re serious about moa or sub moa the powerplant is the first decision. A sledge gun like the rws 54 or fwb 300 can accomplish the task but it takes great technique. A pcp can do it but a regulated pcp gives you an even greater edge. Assuming the barrels in each of these guns are up to the task your work has just begun.
If you accept this challenge it will force you to hone your shooting skills. Trigger pull, repeatable cheek weld, follow through, consistent hold technique, breathing, etc. must be perfect. You will weigh pellets and learn the stages of sorting pellets for uniformity. You will cancel plans on windless days to seize the opportunity to perfect your airgun shooting groups at long range.
Good luck and I wish you well on this very challenging but fun journey.
Much of what you describe, essentially consistent execution, is what one has to master in any shooting, but even more obviously so with pistols and springers. I shoot my sprinters as much as I can in my back yard. In my initial post I forgot to specify the yardage, which is 20 yards. I will take you up on this challenge, and have already started the process of learning everything but the pellet sorting.
As you might know, I competed in small-bore rifle, precision air-rifle, and precision air pistol competition back in the 70’s. Funny thing, I own an FWB 700 ALU, but have found it too easy to punch 10’s at 10 meters in the prone position. I bought this PCP so that I could practice prone shooting at home. Once I started shooting springers I got hooked. I find them as hard to shoot really well as it is with pistols. I’m still at the point where I consider myself to be a novice with springers. I must say, I do marvel at the groups that B.B. and Kevin can produce. I’m not there yet, but I hope to be in the not too distant future. I’m such a novice that it seems that I learn something new every time I shoot.
I don’t have a wide assortment of pellets yet. For now, since I’m still learning the basics that you’ve outlined, I’m mostly using what I have the most of, namely, Gamo Match pellets that I bought for my Gamo Compact. I get pretty good accuracy, except for an occasional flyer, but I can tell that it’s a flyer, so they don’t bother me too much. I’ve bought some 85 tins of 500 each, because I’ve seen some really good sales on them. Right now PA has the best price anywhere on those. They aren’t H&N Finale, but they are good enough to learn the basics. I do have several cases of H&N Finale that I bought for my FWB exclusively. I buy Crosman Premier, 7.9g, hollow points on occasion from Walmart. I’ll eventually buy a bunch of tins from PA, since it’s cheaper with the buy 4, get one free, and free shipping.
I also have 5 tins of coated Beeman wadcutters that I got for free from Kmart. That’s a story in itself. I kept going into the store to buy them, but the store manager wouldn’t help me. She didn’t want to bother going to the back to open the ammo case. The store was close to my home, so I figured it would be convenient. One day (my 5th attempt to buy) the store manager decided to stop me from bothering her, so she gave me a really stupid excuse for why I couldn’t buy them. I was stunned and didn’t believe her, so I wrote an e-mail to corporate, which is Sears, asking if what this manager told me was true. Another employee witnessed this, and was willing to speak up against her boss, so my case was pretty easy. Sears/Kmart offered to give me 5 tins of the Beeman pellets for the inconvenience (and this managers stupidity). Silly, but true, story. Thus far, my springers really like these Beeman wadcutters at 20 yards. Since this is the distance that I shoot the most, I may just order a bunch.
I didn’t offer you a challenge but shooting airguns, especially springers, at long ranges will be challenging.
I think you’ll find that wadcutter style pellets will not be your most accurate pellet at long distance. Domed pellets do very well though. At 50 yards I was surprised at the accuracy of the crosman premier hollow points shot from a .22 cal marauder though. Reminds me of another variable that you may want to put on your list to help with accuracy at longer ranges. Lubing pellets. Some pellets benefit in some guns. You may also want to consider some type of anti cant device. Helped me tighten groups especially at 100 yards.
Don’t marvel at my groups LOL! I was shooting a springer yesterday at 30 yards with one of my few springers, with a tried a true pellet, no wind and had problems with fliers. I tightened stock screws, checked the mounts and rings, focused on cheek weld and still had fliers. I think I’ve got a scope problem. Very humbling.
Understood about the wadcutters at longer distance. I just happen to have well over a hundred tins of wadcutters because I only discovered this world of springers fairly recently. At the time that I started trying to buy the Beeman wadcutters, I hadn’t even heard of PA. But on the other hand, since I do 99% of my shooting in my back yard, especially now that it’s winter, the wadcutters are fine. In the next few months I’ll look at buying LOTS of pellets better suited for longer distances.
As for lubricating, that’s something that is also new to me. I’m glad that you and TwoTalon added some detail a few blogs ago. I’ll have to try this.
If you look at XisicoUSA (maker of BAM, Ruger, many Crosman and others) they list their accuracies as being the same for either caliber. If you go to GamoUSA and look at their standard lead pellets (Spire Point, Match and Hunter) you’ll see that they actually show slightly greater accuracy for .22 cal.
I suspect you were looking at the Beeman website. They quote greater accuracy for .22 for the R1 and the RX2, but the same for the HW97 and R9.
I believe we’re just seeing ‘luck of the draw’ here, and not any real pattern of greater accuracy for the smaller caliber.
I meant “They quote greater accuracy for .177 for the R1 and RX2”.
Kevin, Vince, Loren,
I wonder if the right compromise for longer distance is to buy the .177 caliber and use heavy pellets (close to 10 grains – e.g., Crosman Premier Heavy, H&N Baracuda match, Beeman Kodiak Extra Heavy, etc.). I’ve read that too heavy a pellet will damage an air-gun.
I’m going to give you my two cents about this question on todays blog.
If you want to try field target competition the RWS 54 in 177 would be fine or if you want to hunt go with the 22.
For this particular rifle, I would be mostly interested in long distance shooting. That’s why I’d be interested in knowing which caliber would be best for this. Vince makes some good points about speed and profile, but I wonder if mass is more important? I do plan on trying field target competition, but for that I’m leaning towards the HW 97K (hard to choose that over the TX200 III).
I have been looking without any success for a pencil type loader for my new Benjamin Trail that shots .22 pellets. Lots of them for .177, but nothing for .22. Thank you for your help.
Have had trouble with mine firing when taking of safety- sent it back to RWS and they said nothing was wrong- tried shooting again and still firing when taking off safety- will send it back- they seemed not worried about.
When you say you sent your rifle back to RWS, do you means Umarex USA in Ft. Smith AR? Because they are RWS USA also.
Firing when the safety is taken off is extremely dangerous. They should have been able to find it if you are. Give them detailed instructions of exactly what you do the next time. For example, do you first pull the trigger with the safety on, then take it off and the gun fires? That is the usual way a safety fails.
I just purchased a 45 with the date 05 81 and serial number 318391. I have shot it a few times and want to know how to clean it. What would be the best scope to purchase? The elderly lady I bought it from had it stored in a gun safe for the last 20 years. She gave me German Mauser match kugeln pellets and I just ordered some RWS Superdomes. I’m assuming it has the leather seals. Any information would be appreciated!
Welcome to the blog.
Your 45 probably has synthetic seals, but was made right at the transition time, so oil with silicone chamber opil and see what it does. A leather seal will sound squishy after soaking in oil for a couple hours if you move the barrel a little but don’t cock the gun.
Meisterkugeln pellets are wadcutters and may not be accurate after 25 yards. Superdomes will be better, I think.
Forget cleaning the gun! Just wipe it down with Ballistol to stop the rust that has formed in the bluing.
If your rifle shoots Meisterkugeln pellets at 825 f.p.s., it probably has leather seals. If it shoots them at 900 f.p.s., the seal is synthetic for sure.
How do I oil the seals? How do I check the fps? What scope do you recommend?
You drop silicone chamber oil (ONLY!) through the air transfer port that is exposed when the barrel is broken open.
Do0 you know where it is?
Yes. I am using the ballistol to clean the barrel. Using my wife’s make up swabs and a 1/8″ wooden dowel to push them through. If some of the ballistol got into the transfer port, am I doomed?
Not at all, but it’s not necessary to clean the barrel yet. Just shoot the gun. I have springers I have shot over 10,000 times without cleaning the barrel.
What pellets do you recommend?
RWS Superdomes are good. So are JSB Exacts, though you haven’t told me the caliber of your gun. If it’s .177 then I’d try RS and 8.4-grain pellets.