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Ammo Weihrauch HW 100 S FSB PCP rifle: Part 2

Weihrauch HW 100 S FSB PCP rifle: Part 2

by B.B. Pelletier

Before we start, I want to let you know that there are two new videos on Airgun Academy:

Episode 25 – Introduction to airgun calibers: Part 1
Episode 26 – Introduction to airgun safety: Part 1

There’s also a new podcast. This is a special one. It’s the interview with Dr. Robert Beeman, founder of Beeman Precision Airguns. Sorry this has taken so long, but Edith processes them and she had a few unavoidable delays getting this ready for publication.

On to today’s blog.

Part 1

This is the actual rifle I’m testing. Isn’t that wood beautiful?

Today, I’ll resume our look at the HW 100S FSB PCP air rifle. For what I am about to do, I apologize: By the end of this section of the report, several of you will want to get this rifle.

This is velocity day and we have two things to test. First, we’ll be testing the velocity of the rifle with three popular brands of .22 caliber pellets. Based on the published energy potential of the rifle (26 foot-pounds), I’ve selected the Beeman Kodiak copper-plated pellet for its weight of 21.1 grains. I’ve tested this pellet in other rifles and found it to be just as accurate as the all-lead Kodiak, so I felt this was an appropriate pellet to test. It just barely clears the repeating mechanism, front and rear, so it’s probably at the upper limit of pellet weights for use in this rifle in the repeating mode. If you obtain the optional single-shot adapter, you could load longer, heavier pellets.

The second pellet I chose was the 18.1-grain JSB Jumbo Exact Heavy. Not only is this a good pellet in powerful guns, it also got at least one good mention in the customer reviews of this gun.

The third pellet I selected was the venerable 14.3-grain Crosman Premier. I wouldn’t normally select a pellet this light for a rifle rated at 26 foot-pounds, but the Premier is such a well-known pellet that I felt it had to be included. Unfortunately for me that choice cost me dearly, but we’ll get to that in a bit.

Loading the circular clip for this rifle is quite easy. A mark on the outside of the clip tells you where you are, plus I was able to see the pellets as they fed into the breech since I haven’t mounted a scope yet. When installed in the gun, the clip rotates clockwise, so you always know to load pellets to the left of the outer mark on the magazine. The clip removes and installs easier than any circular clip I’ve ever used in a PCP rifle. And, the cocking sidelever is equally smooth and easy. I found the HW 100S FSB to be the epitome of a smooth-shooting PCP.

Two 14-round clips come with the rifle. Pellets are loaded from the back of the clip, shown on the right. The indexing line discussed in the report can be seen on the edges of both clips.

Discharge sound
This is not a quiet air rifle! The sound at discharge is approximately the same as a Sheridan Blue Streak or Benjamin 392 on 8 pumps. It really cracks! We must take into account that the rifle is generating more than twice the power of the multi-pumps, but I think the sound will bother those shooters who want perfect quiet from their guns.

The first pellet tested was the Beeman Kodiak Copper-Plated pellet. They averaged 799 f.p.s., which means a muzzle energy of 29.92 foot-pounds, so the advertised 26 foot-pounds is very conservative. The velocity ranged from a low of 789 to a high of 805 f.p.s., for a the total spread was 16 f.p.s. I will be interested to see how accurate this pellet will be, because it really delivers the power.

Next, I tested the JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy. They’re shorter than the Kodiaks, so they fit the clip much better. They averaged 874 f.p.s., which calculates to a muzzle energy of 30.71 foot-pounds. That is an increase over the heavier Kodiaks! Normally heavier pellets are more efficient in PCPs, but we’ve just encountered an exception. The velocity spread went from 872 to 878 f.p.s., so just six feet per second between the slowest and fastest shot. That’s really amazing.

Normally, I would address the trigger in Part 3, when I test accuracy, but I just couldn’t wait that long. It’s a two-stage pull and releases with just 8 oz. of pressure. This is a TRIGGER! I feel like I’ll be able to do wonderful things with this rifle because of this light, crisp predictable trigger. You can forget about me adjusting it, because it’s perfect right now. In fact, I’ll make a confession about this trigger.

This trigger is so beautiful that it made me do something about my 1886 Ballard trigger. As nice and accurate as the Ballard rifle is, its single-stage trigger releases with 7 lbs., 6 oz. of pressure! That’s simply too much weight for good target accuracy. I’ve contacted the Ballard Arms Company to inquire if they can make and fit a double-set trigger into my rifle without altering the rifle in any way. I want to retain the original trigger in original condition, and I want no original parts to be worked on, but I would like to have a better trigger in that rifle. I had it out at the range last week and the best I could do for 10 shots was just under two inches at 100 yards. I know that a better trigger could shave that considerably.

So, if I end up selling you on this HW 100, please bear in mind that it has already cost me money. I doubt your wife will appreciate my situation, however.

On with the velocity test
The third and final pellet I tested in the rifle was the Crosman Premier. Since the gun fell off the power curve after shot 25, I will not report the average for this pellet. Instead, I’ll show you all ten velocities.


It’s pretty obvious to me that the power fell off after the fifth shot. With the first two strings added in, that makes a total number of 25 shots on the first fill. You could argue that the next few shots are all close enough in velocity that this drop-off doesn’t really matter — and perhaps 30 total shots are possible. Okay, I won’t argue that. But that’s about it for one fill. The manometer needle has dropped to the lowest portion of the green (good) sector, so the reservoir needs to be refilled.

My bad day!
I had just relined my silent pellet trap with fresh duct seal before testing this rifle. The tens of thousands of smashed lead pellets that normally help retard each shot were not present. I also write a daily blog on airguns, and in my safety lectures I often tell my readers that a powerful airgun will shoot through a backstop if you shoot too many shots in the same place.

But I didn’t think it could happen to ME! Certainly not TWICE!

You see, I shot through another silent pellet trap that was made by another airgun dealer and given to me as a gift several years ago. But that trap had no steel plate backing the duct seal. A trap I made myself (using Edith’s best cookie sheet) did. I shot all the way through the new duct seal and through the steel backing plate and into the wall behind the trap!

Take a close look at the string of holes on the right. See the bunch of four near the top of that string? Those were the Premiers that punched through the duct seal in the trap, the steel plate backer, the half-inch plywood behind that and embedded in my office wall.

And that’s what it looks like when a pellet blows through a silent pellet trap! In this photo you can even see the steel plate and the half-inch of plywood that failed to stop the pellet after it penetrated two inches of duct seal.

So, kiddies, do as B.B. says and not as he does. For gosh sakes, a 30 foot-pound PCP is almost like shooting a .22 short — especially at close range. I will now have to resort to the homemade pellet trap that was given to me by Jim Contos earlier this year. It has twice as much steel backer plate inside, plus the container is PVC and not wood. I think it can do the job. It better, because I’m running out of spackle for the walls!

On the other hand — are you impressed? I know I am. This HW 100S FSB is an extremely powerful air rifle to be able to blast through a trap like mine that has stopped long rifle bullets (when it was loaded with spent lead pellets).

Premier velocity revisited
Now that all the fuss is out of the way, I refilled the reservoir and shot another string of Crosman Premiers. They averaged 956 f.p.s., which means they generated a muzzle energy of 29.03 foot-pounds. The rifle is most definitely a 30 foot-pound gun. The spread this time was from 954 to 959 f.p.s., so only five f.p.s. between the two extremes. Continuing to shoot Premiers netted me a total of 38 full-power shots, so the advertised number of 40 seems reasonable. Perhaps the rifle wasn’t quite full on the first fill.

What do I think?
At this point I think I’ve got a tiger by the tail. I think this HW 100S FSB could turn out to be one of the all-time best PCP rifles I’ve ever tested. Yes, it’s expensive, but so are many other rifles it competes with. We’ll have to wait and see on the accuracy, but I’m very impressed at this point.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

58 thoughts on “Weihrauch HW 100 S FSB PCP rifle: Part 2”

  1. Well B.B…….
    You are not the only one who has made extra holes where you do not want them. Too many shots into the same place with a Talondor goes through duct seal, steel plate, wood, then through drywall too.

    This rifle is tempting, but I have my hands full already. You really need to stop showing me HW products.


    • Heh… Initial velocity testing of a .177 Marauder had me putting two holes through my silent trap. The first one stopped in the closet door at ~the pellet waist; second one splattered the sheet metal I put behind the trap (I should pull the putty and cut the steel sheet to fit inside). Back of the trap now has two slatherings of plastic wood.

      No problem with individual pellets being stopped, but I’d been using a rest and same sight point, at a mere 15 foot distance… I’d thought the trap might take the Marauder on factory settings as the .177 pellets are light enough to put it into the same rough range as the .22 RWS m54. The .22 Condor, OTOH, is never going to be shot at the silent trap; 40+ ft-lbs is only going to the .22 rimfire trap (I’ve been wondering if I could stuff that with putty so it doesn’t sound like a church bell)

  2. Beautiful rifle. Like all HW rifles. I still can’t get over the cost creep of going PCP though. Gun, pump/tanks, chrony (although useful for all, necessary for PCP) I don’t need that much power, and wonder whether most do. Not to mention the constant filling. Just doesn’t make sense to me, but hey that’s why we live in America, so we can make our own decisions.

    Right now, I’m thinking of getting a 10-12 fpe springer that will be a pleasure to shoot. The contenders are: HW 50s, and well – that’s it really. I have thought of the TF 58, but it looks to be too low powered. Also the Remington NPSS and the BSA Supersport XL, but they are more powerful and not sure they would be such a pleasure as a result. I am after an aesthetic experience. I want to enjoy the pleasure of shooting the rifle both for its’ accuracy/precision as well as the engineering/design. Any feedback on those listed, but not yet reviewed (TF 58 and Supersport XL)? Research indicates that the 58 is a real joy, but I am yet unconvinced. The Supersport seems nice, but perhaps the trigger is not as nice as the Rekord.

    • Fused,

      If you want to get into the PCP experience without a lot of cost the Benjamin Discovery is a great way to start at only $379.00 from PA. You can live without the chrony for awhile.


      • I don’t want to go PCP. I’m finding my preference to be springers. They have the best of all worlds: low cost, independent use, accuracy and (my theory is) a great pleasure to shoot when you stay reasonable about the power you really need.

        Oh, and I forgot two criteria for my decision: 7 lbls or under and $400 or under.

        • Fused,

          Given your criteria, it’s hard to think of a better option than an HW50s. However, I would add one cautionary note, because you specifically mention weight as a factor: I don’t know how serious your 7 lb. limit is, but many people have commented that their HW50’s are heavier than the specs indicate. Mine sure is. This past weekend it seemed so heavy compared to my HW30s that I actually went and weighed it. With a Hawke AirMax 3-9×40 scope on it (nominal weight 16 oz, plus mounting rings), the rifle weighs 9.6 lbs.

          This is not to say it’s not a *wonderful* rifle, just that it can be tiring if most of your shooting is off-hand. When I’m kneeling or sitting, the rifle is an amazing tack-driver, but when standing I only get a few truly accurate shots before I start getting wobbly due to its weight. (Yeah, I know, time to get back to the gym 🙂 With my little little HW30s, I can stand & shoot all day without tiring.

          I will say this, though: You can’t go wrong with any of the Weihrauch rifles. They’re heirloom quality, and the Rekord trigger is absolutely wonderful.

          Neil in VA

          • Fused

            +1 what Neil said. IMO one with iron sights is a must. The front globe will have six included inserts to suit your preference.

            I have not ordered the kit yet, because I have too many other projects, but I have read many glowing reviews of the Vortek kit for the HW50S. It somehow quiets, smooths, and increases power at the same time. Power is not the most important thing for me, but given the other two, I will certainly take it. ARH (Jim Maccari) sells an ‘indoor plinker’ de-tune kit, if that is more your style.

            Mine does not get used as much as it deserves, but it is really smoothing out on its own. The cocking effort seems to be going down as well.

    • If you want a PCP or not depends on a lot of things. How much power you want depends on what you want to use it for. How much air you go through depends on what you are using it for.
      What bites me is that a lot of people insist that going with a scuba tank for filling is the only way to go. They make it sound like you can get a scuba refilled anywhere. It just don’t work that way. Not every neighborhood has paintball shops, dive shops, and fire departments that are ready and willing to help you out with refills. Unless you can find several reliable sources of air in the neighborhood, you might as well figure on pumping. Too many places close down or change policy anymore.


      • Amen, and that assumes you have a “neighborhood” :). I like the springers’ independence and just shoot rimfire if I need more range or have an actual task to do (e.g., eliminate something). Every time I get curious about a PCP, someone shows a shot-string and that cures the yearning. Shooting is challenging enough without wondering how many shots you have left before you have to change your sight picture or being winded by a brisk pumping session before you start :).

    • Fused,
      I’ve been thinking the BSA Polaris looks good. Despite the “1000 fps” rating, it seems like it is only mildly magnum and BB’s accuracy test turned out well. Fits your price and weight criteria, and is an underlever, which I think is the easiest type to shoot.

    • I have not wacked my chrono yet. I have been very careful about that from the beginning.
      As far as a backing plate goes, a piece of 1/4″ steel plate that you might be able to get from a junk yard may be a good choice. If a pellet can’t put a dent in it, then it will work. Overkill is always a confidence builder.


  3. Everything about the gun sounds typical for HW, quality and well designed. EXCEPT for the shroud. IMO there is no reason for a loud PCP since shrouds have been out for quite some time. You say the gun is loud and it has a shroud installed to me is unacceptable from HW. HW was a late comer to the PCP market and even later in offering the FSB, so they’ve had time to R&D an effective shroud. Knowing the noise level of the gun, that would be a deal breaker for me if I were in the market for a PCP right now. For others it may not be an issue. Too bad for the less than effective shroud, it is probably a great rifle

    • Nathan,

      Yes shrouds have been around for a long time but not all of them are quiet! When guns get up around the 30 foot-pound region and more it gets difficult to quiet them unless you devote the air space inside the shroud. Air Arms gets away by lowering the maximum power. The AirForce Condor gets quiet with a huge-volume shroud that is the same size as the rifle’s frame, so it doesn’t look bad. Daystate and the Rogue both do it by precisely limiting the amount of air for each shot.

      I have heard other shrouded PCPs that were just as loud as this one.

      The best I ever heard was made by Gary Barnes, but it was a dedicated Maxim-design silencer. And the Logun S16 came pretty close to that, but again the power was lower.


  4. B.B. The real question should have been who wouldn’t want this rifle? Impressive.

    I know your a big fan of the Ballistol Lube. Can you tell me how this stuff work on corrosive salts?


        • duskwight,

          I carry a Micro Desert Eagle. It’s a .380 ACP auto that is just slightly larger than a .25 pistol. As for accuracy, we (Mac and I) have hit soccer-ball-sized dirt clods at 50 yards repeatedly with it, so if I take the time to aim, it is accurate.


          • B.B.

            Nice little beast 🙂 I like its shape and it sure packs good punch for its size.
            If I were able to carry an everyday semi-auto piece that would be this or Boberg XR9. Or, maybe, 9 mm version of PSM (if it ever happen to exist and be available on civilian market here).


              • B.B.

                As far as I know they are manually-cycled weapon, so they need some skill to operate. Well, .45 ACP is a definite show-stopper and sometimes it’s only one round to play the game.


    • The word I hear is that Ballistol cleans out corrosive ammo powder as effectively as it does regular ammo. One guy’s prescription is a 1:10 mixture of Ballistol and water for the initial flushing because apparently the water is very important. Then undiluted Ballistol for the regular cleaning.


  5. Edith

    Lock up your cookie sheets! BB is going to be on the prowl.

    I have mentioned it before, but my older brother is a metal worker and he welded up a trap for me based on a vague description, and a very small picture. It is now loaded up with duct seal and an old sweatshirt that had a busted zipper (to make it as quiet as possible.) Before it was loaded up with duct seal I fired two magazines of .22lr into it, and 2 shots with a 115gr 9mm FMJ. The .22lr did absolutely nothing. The 9mm bullets put two barely perceptible dents in the rear of the trap. I keep trying to convince him to make a bunch of traps and sell them.

    • SL,

      No chance! I learned my lesson last time. Even now I wince whenever Edith asks me if I want a cookie. 😉

      And, being a naturally lazy man and having all you genius readers to school me, this time I’m going to just buy a small electrical box and be done with it. Maybe I’ll attach a base for more stability if my caffeine kicks in at the right time.

      I would love to see a picture of the trap your brother made! There is no money to be made making pellet traps, but as a hobby he could make a little pocket money on the side. But as a welder I bet he gets opportunities like that all the time.


      • BB

        You could buy Edith the nicest cookie sheets on the block, but you’ll never live that one down. The electrical box is a perfect solution. Especially the ones with hinged fronts.

        It seems my advice to my brother is… ill advised. It would cost a fortune to ship them anyway. But I will snap a couple photos (including damage) and post them.

      • BB
        I made my silent trap with wooden sides and 1/4″ Lexan for the back. So far no sign of damage (to the back) but my S410 only gets 26 fp. I used Lexan to keep the weight down, but with the duct seal and pellets it’s still heavy.

      • I’m using a commercially available “Gehmann” branded trap. Sized for AP targets. Has a thick and heavy plate that the pellet moves backwards when it strikes. Very effective; probably effective at higher energies too as it’s all steel.

        To silence it I’ve got a bunch of ductseal all over the plate.

  6. 2 all

    Gentlemen, I need help from your esteemed collective mind.
    I’m planning to use Loctite 620 (or others from this family) retaining compound in my construction to glue compresssion tube into main coupling. Roughly it looks like shaft and muft.
    Can you tell me, where can I read something on its characteristics, especially on its ability to resist such loads as “pulling the shaft out of the muft” and vibration resistance?
    It’s very important to me, because if it is ok with its strength I can get rid of two retaining dowels and two very sensitive drilling operations.


    • Duskwright,

      the type of Locktite you use depends on whether you want to easily remove the parts or not. For instance, ‘Blue Loctite” is the anti-vibration adhesive while “Green” is for engine bearings and cylinder studs – parts you don’t want to come apart without significant force. Here is the Loctite website – http://www.loctite.com/index2.php?cc=us which I’m sure you have looked at but just in case you haven’t, here’s the screen for 620:


      It appears that Henkel is the manufacturer of and the owner of Loctite. Hope this helps a little.

      Fred PRoNJ

      • Fred,

        Thanks a lot for that link, I found there some TDS’s so I think I should take my time and study them closely to find out.

        Any more ifo, anyone?


    • I’m not sure how well Loctite does on straight-line tension — everything I’ve read indicates it is meant to restrict vibration-induced rotation of threaded fittings; is your shaft threaded into the rest? (why does that sound vaguely obscene?)

      • Wulfraed.

        Well, I feel I sound even more obscene – this shaft is straight, no threads. It’s actually a tube, set inside a muft that is my main coupling. That tread stopper is “blue” loctite, and I’m planning to use “green” – they say it acts well against straight-line tension but I’d like to know – how well does it act in reality?


    • Duskwight, I’m afraid that I can’t help you with the Loctite, but on the general subject of gluing, I feel bound to mention my new discovery: Golden West Super Solvent which is a solution for reversing superglue (cyanoacrylate). I really came to grief trying to use Acetone for this purpose, but this Golden West stuff works like magic. I’m reminded of my grandfather many years ago trying to glue the bottom onto a high heel of my grandmother’s shoe. He placed it incorrectly then pulled like mad to get it off but could not. I feel a biblical power to bind and to loose.


    • NTBS,

      Sure it could be so modified, and for an experienced person it shouldn’t be too difficult, but there are no kits, plans or videos on how to do so. In other words not a DIY project for a beginner.

      The Marauder technology is very similar in the pistol.


      • Thanks B. B.
        So where should a beginner begin for this type of work.
        I am planning to get a Crossman 1077 to do take it apart and see the internal working.

        I have mailed you on the mail address posted on airgunwriter, for some help in regard to a product development , is that mail id still working?


  7. I took my pellet trap out of my yard in town this morning and will be moving it to our place in the mountains since that’s where I do most of my shooting during the summer.

    I made my pellet trap out of a metal box originally designed to house sprinkler controls. It’s 4″ X 14″ X 18″. It is filled with duct seal and probably weighs 50 lbs. It has been outside for 3 years and has thousands of pellets in it.

    I installed a handle to help carry it, and installed a clip from a clipboard to hold the targets. It’s hung with chains on an old real estate sign frame so I can place it anywhere outside.


    Note the screw that is pressed through the bottom of the target into the duct seal so wind doesn’t blow the target. You’ll also see a small bungee cord that is attached to the key lock on the door and the target stand. Not only does this bungee cord keep the wind from blowing the door shut but it levels the target when the door is open. If the bungee cord wasn’t there the target box would be canted.


    Some people use magnets to attach their targets to the inside metal lip that is usually present. I like the secure lock on the door to keep the elements out.


      • Kevin,

        Ballard Arms Co. in Montana makes Ballards just like mine today. They are supposed to be dimensionally the same. The features are all the same. One that has all the features my rifle has would cost just over $4,000.


        They also work on vintage Ballards. I was hoping it would be possible for them to fit their modern DST into my rifle without modifying my rifle in any way. That way I would have the original parts to go with the gun, and a much better trigger onboard.

        I have asked if this is possible and am awaiting their answer.


        • I still think you’re barking mad to take a beautiful rifle like this and ship it. I wouldn’t let this thing out of my hands & trust it to anyone to ship. But, it’s your gun money, not mine. If it’s stolen or broken beyond repair, will you be just as happy to receive the money & not mourn the loss? What if all the value is beaten out of it by mishandling through the shipping company? They’ll compensate you…but not for the future value and all its inherent appreciation.

          I remain stunned that you would even think of doing this. But, then, I’m talking to the man who couldn’t tell the difference between a rusty old cookie sheet in the basement that was used to feed the wildlife during an especially brutal winter & the cookie sheet in my kitchen that I regularly used to bake.


          • Edith,

            I’ve shipped a lot of guns and each one makes me nervous.

            I’ve shipped over 50 guns in the past 90 days. Heavy cardboard rifle box (or heavy cardboard box that golf clubs are shipped in) is a necessity. I wrap the guns in a cloth cut from sheets purchased at thrift stores. Then double wrap the gun in bubble wrap with 1″ bubbles. I provide additional “shock absorbtion” at each end of the box by rolling the bubble wrap like a sleeping bag and taping it so it won’t come unrolled.

            For really special guns I’ll pad them inside a gun case then ship the gun case in a cardboard box.

            Have never had a problem with guns I’ve packed and shipped. Knock on wood.


            • I felt confident about shipping my guns in cases inside a cardboard box until I sent my IZH 61 to Mike Melick and the case got pretty much destroyed in the process. Mike advised me to send rifles in two cardboard boxes enclosed within each other with packing in between. I expect that with my Vanguard rifle case and Mike’s method superimposed on top of it, the rifle would probably be safe, but it would cost. I’ve actually stopped taking my Anschutz rifle to Hawaii to protect it from wear and tear.


        • B.B.,

          Thanks for the link.

          Interesting that the majority of their Traditional Rifle reproductions, including the Union Hill, have a 14″ length of pull like yours.


          • Kevin,
            I don’t trust those spec’s. completely, as they list, e.g., the 1885 Low Wall as having a “shotgun buttplate”, but the picture shows a crescent. It makes sense to have a little longer LOP (and a bit more drop) on the crescents because they are held further off the shoulder/down the arm than the shotgun buttplates. Some of the ones with shotgun buttplates say 135/8″ which makes sense. Maybe LOP is custom as well as buttplate style?

    • The Daisy is a match gun; is that what you want? Then the P1 is no substitute. A used IZH-46 is probably a bit better, maybe much better, than the Daisy and not so very expensive.

      • i just want something cool that i can have fun shooting but if the time comes shoot competivally I’m really young though so not shooting competivally anytime soon but its something Id like to do in the future

    • wprejs,
      I second all recommendations for the IZH-46M if it’s 10m target you’re wanting. This pistol is very accurate and very easy to cock. I would also rebutt anyones comments about having to reshape the grips. The proper attitude should be more positive, in that the grips are wood and as such they are customizable by the owner to fit almost any hand. And this would be important especially for competition shooting.

  8. The beginning of today’s blog reminds me of Charleton Heston in Ben Hur before he begins the chariot race. He wraps himself in a prayer shawl and prays, “For what I am about to do forgive me, but my path is set.” It sure is. Nice gun, but too bad about noise. Is it that much more powerful than the Marauder that it cannot be muffled?

    I sure am glad that I invested in the ultimate pellet trap from PA that can stop a .22 LR. My old Crosman trap was completely shot to hell after awhile. I discovered that the metal plate in back was an inch away from the frame riding on duct seal. So that’s where all the duct seal was going. And the inside looked like Iwo Jima. Now, I’m at peace with my super trap.

    B.B., I was just kidding around about the college roommate thing. Yes, I see that the press has got some serious force built into it. Got my powder scale zeroed after much fiddling. My Mom will love this little thing.


  9. Hey, in answering wprejs’s comment I went out and looked at the IZH-46M on PA and there is now a left-handed version available. I sure wish they had that when I bought mine. On the other hand I did have fun making my own. I wonder if the sell just the grips now?

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    Shop and purchase with confidence knowing that all of our air guns (except airsoft) are protected by a minimum 1-year manufacturer's warranty from the date of purchase unless otherwise noted on the product page.

    A warranty is provided by each manufacturer to ensure that your product is free of defect in both materials and workmanship.

    View Warranty Details

  • Exchanges / Refunds

    Didn't get what you wanted or have a problem? We understand that sometimes things aren't right and our team is serious about resolving these issues quickly. We can often help you fix small to medium issues over the phone or email.

    If you need to return an item please read our return policy.

    Learn About Returns

Get FREE shipping on qualifying orders! Any order $150+ with a shipping address in the contiguous US will receive the option for free ground shipping on items sold & shipped by Pyramyd AIR during checkout. Certain restrictions apply.

Free shipping may not be combined with a coupon unless stated otherwise.

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