by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Walther’s LGU underlever is a beautiful new spring rifle.
This report covers:
• The grand opening…
• A special metal trigger
• Loading port
• Firing behavior
• I have a dream!
Today, we’ll start looking at the new Walther LGU air rifle. It arrived last Saturday, and I knew that the first glance would tell me a lot — which it did. The box is large, strong and beautiful. No pictures of a gun — no freeway overpass advertising. Just a classy, subdued gray over the entire rugged box. I guessed that what was inside was something the manufacturer was proud of.
The grand opening…
When I saw the rifle for the first time I knew Walther had done it right. I will describe this in detail, so you can enjoy it with me.
The LGU is an underlever sporting rifle that comes in both .177 and .22 calibers. I ordered the .177 because I thought it looked poised to go after the TX200 Mark III market. Now that I’ve seen it in person, I can say — Air Arms — watch out. There’s a new kid on the block, and he’s gunning for you!
This is a large rifle. It weighs around 9.5 lbs., depending on the density of the wood. My test rifle, which is serial number BU002269, weighs 9 lbs., 11 oz. The stock is thick and has finger grooves that run down each side of the forearm. The pistol grip is finely checkered and feels rough to the touch. You want that for its gripping power. There’s a Walther logo carved on both sides of the bottom of the checkered panels.
The stock is a very smooth and even beech. The forearm ends in a schnable shape that’s split for the underlever. The butt has a thick black recoil pad for slip resistance. Make no mistake, they pulled out all the stops when they made this one!
The metal on the spring tube is finished to a deep mirror shine that’s colored a perfect black. No Colt Python with Royal Blue ever looked better! Both the barrel and underlever are finished one order of magnitude less shiny, which makes them about equal to the best finish on a Weihrauch rifle.
I love the width and shape of the LGU trigger! It feels like a rifleman’s trigger when I hold the rifle to my shoulder. The trigger blade is the only plastic you’ll see on the outside of the rifle, but it’s so right that I don’t see how anyone can complain.
The safety is automatic, and the switch is centered on the rifle’s tang — like a shotgun safety. That makes the LGU 98 percent ambidextrous. Only the loading port favors right-handed shooters over lefties.
The trigger is 2-stage and adjustable, and I see 2 screws that appear to be for that purpose. I’ll be doing that so I can report on. But wait! There’s more!
A special metal trigger
According to the owner’s manual, there’s also an optional trigger called the “metal tuning trigger” available for the LGU. Well, I checked with Umarex USA, and this trigger is one they’ve had since the LGV rifles came out. It’s so complex to install that Walther voids the limited lifetime warranty if anyone else outside Umarex USA does the work. I got the impression that this trigger is not worth the effort to install, and they won’t be offering it in the future.
The LGU has a sliding compression chamber, like many other underlever airguns. This one has 2 deep notches in the side, so the ratchet can catch the chamber before it’s fully cocked. This is additional protection for your fingers when loading the rifle, though you should make a practice of never letting go of the underlever while loading. When the breech is loaded, press in on the front of the latch located just behind the loading port and slide the compression chamber forward by returning the underlever to the stored position.
A lot of similarity with the TX in the loading port area. That latch is pushed at the front to close the sliding chamber.
The underlever is held in place by a ball bearing detent. Two rubber o-rings around the end of the lever keep all vibration at bay, though they don’t actually touch the muzzlebrake.
The barrel is 11.81 inches long. The large muzzlebrake is just for show. The space inside is empty.
The underlever catch looks like it was taken directly from a TX200 web page of recommended field modifications.
I will address the firing behavior more in the future reports, but I just had to shoot the gun right now. Look out, TX, because the LGU is calm when it fires!
They rate the .177 LGU at 1,000 f.p.s., which I hope means in the low 900s when reasonable pellets are used. The .22 is rated to 593 f.p.s., which sort of tells me the .177 may not be all that fast. That would be very good. And we shall definitely see!
A rifle like this does not have open sights because you’re expected to scope it. For that, Walther has provided parallel 11mm grooves in the spring tube with three vertical scope stop holes. It’s a very conservative and welcome arrangement, because it makes mounting a scope so easy.
I have a dream!
My dream is that this rifle is just as accurate and just as insensitive to hold as a TX200 Mark III. If that’s the case, we’re going to see a lot of these on the field target circuit.
If I’m right, I will do a head-to-head accuracy test that pits the 2 rifles against each other. I will shoot them both off a UTG monopod that I am going to begin reviewing for you very soon. But I will only do this if the LGU I’m testing is as accurate and insensitive to hold as my TX. Otherwise, there’s no reason for that test.
94 thoughts on “Walther’s new LGU: Part 1”
Seeing this makes me me even wonder more as to why Feinwerkbau couldn’t do their Sport Air Rifle right from day one. This one looks like it is going to be the new benchmark.
Looks like a beauty, don’t understand the larger then normal power drop between .177cal and .22cal with the LGU. You don’t see this big a drop with the TX or HW97K both shoot in the mid 700’s vs 593 for the LGU.
As too the “Metal Tuning Trigger” that has been a VERY popular upgrade for LGV owners will ALSO be a must have item. Damn sad the factory has taken this shortcut, being the Tuning Trigger allows full control over 1st stage travel and 2nd stage break point. Those rifles upgraded get trigger that can be FAR BETTER adjusted and have so much less 1st stage travel over the LONG 1st stage the plastic trigger provides as delivered.
If you have read the trigger upgrade is not worth while ? … you have been given bum information IMO.
Change it out and readjust the setting screws never looking back !!! …. voiding of warranty is really a crock, but hey MANY who own quality guns will tweak & tune them to be all they can and warranty coverage really is not necessary for all but a few % of owners anyways.
I’m with you Scott. I am going to want the absolute best trigger on it that I can get. If FWB can put an Olympic grade trigger on a sproinger, why is it such an issue for everyone else? I know, it is going to cost. Though the average Wally Worlder is not willing to pay or such, I for one am willing to pay that extra cost.
All I am doing is relaying the info from Umarex USA. That trigger is being dropped from the line.
Why would they drop from the line a trigger that improves their product at a reasonable cost at that? The CDT in comparison is a drop in part and costs more than the trigger and installation fee being charged from what I can see on the Pyramyd site unless I’m looking at the wrong trigger job. For a slight increase in cost this could probably be a factory standard replacing the plastic trigger entirely.
I don’t know how the trigger is on the LGU so I cant make a comparison.
But I do know there was a fuss thrown over the plastic trigger on the Diana 54 Air King. I do have a 54 and its about 6 years old and absolutely no problems with it. And I’m picky about how a trigger will adjust out.
Time to wait and see what BB finds out when he starts adjusting. You know he will tell it like it is.
My m54 had a plastic trigger blade all the way back to its T01 mechanism. I suspect the real complaints were about the changes in the mechanism between the T05 and T06 variants (were there any others between T01 and T05?).
The T01 has two screws, one each controlling first stage and second stage lengths. Took me forever to realize the unit was shipped with zero first stage, and the longest creepiest second stage around. I’ve now got it to a more likable long first stage, and very short second stage (some day I’ll work on it some more — I’d prefer to thave the second stage just there: long light stroke, pressure stack, release). Only thing missing is an overtravel stop screw.
Problem with the T01 is that it is similar to the Gamo/GRT-III lever architecture — meaning the pivot point of the trigger is way up in front, and the trigger blade rises into the stock as it is pulled (making for the one justification for taking out a lot of the first stage pull by having the first stage screw run in a ways — less distance for total pull and less rise into the stock).
The T05 and T06 appear to have the pivot above the blade, leaving the blade to move “back” when pulled, not up. Though given the limited adjustment of the T05 — I’d likely prefer the T06 or the T01.
T05 is in the .177 cal. guns. T06 is in the .22 cal. now days.
I just clicked on the gun to check out the description of the gun and saw the video. So I started watching it and its for the break barrel LGV not the LGU.
Guess a video isn’t out for a LGU yet and the LGV is similar?
But I do like the LGU for sure. This is a gun that I could be interested in the .22 cal. version. And that I wish had a little more velocity in .22 cal. I wish I could know for sure if it had a little more FPS than whats advertised.
And before the 10% and free shipping over a 150 dollars and double bullseye bucks get over with Thursday. Looks like the discount can be used on this gun.
Yes I know the one is a under lever (my preference) and the other is a break barrel.
I don’t know why the video appears there. I’ve asked Pyramyd Air to remove it.
But I would really like to see a video of the LGU.
Maybe Paul Capello got his hands on an LGU and is testing it also. Then there be video!
I really do hope so. That would be nice. I like the blog but like watching a video review also.
I just looked at the fps and fpe for each caliber from the gun and the 22 cal. @ 12 fpe is probably with a 15 grain pellet like the JSB 15.89’s @ the 593 fps.
And I’m guessing the .177 @ 17 fpe is with around a 7.5 grain pellet @ 1000 fps.
So I’m thinking that the fps numbers are going to be close to right. You could probably speed the 22 up with a lighter pellet like around 14 grains. And slow the 177 down with a heavier pellet like a10.34 grain and still have a good shooting gun.
Do it. If you do not like it, I know someone who will be more than willing to adopt it. 😉
I would like to get one but no more guns that I can sell to get the LGU… But….
You know what I had some old airplane stuff that I don’t use anymore. (switched over to electric flight) So I sold a bunch of stuff that is used for fuel flight and some engines and other various things not used anymore. And also sold some old car parts that I have managed to hang on to for whatever reason why that I will never use again.
That’s how I got the T-Rex. And there is a little left that maybe I can talk to that Santa guy and tell him I can help him out with a bit of my money and he can bring me a LGU. That wouldn’t be bribing Santa would it? 😉
I am going to try bribing Santa as well – a friend just got a .22 caliber FX Royale 400 and claims to be shooting one-hole 5-shot groups at 70 yards and says that 1-inch spinners at 100 yards are no problem from a rest. Evidently the ST barrels are doing well in some of the competitions – have to check it out.
I am not overly fond of the big bottle but the regulator is holding good numbers all the way out to 60 shots. Weight is 6 ½ pounds (sans scope) and balance is just forward the trigger. Sounds OK.
I would appreciate any comments from anybody with experience with this PCP.
Had to laugh at you scrounging stuff to sell for a new toy – I am doing the same thing (want to buy a kayak?). This fall, before the deer hunt, I went out to the local sand-pits to pick up some shot-shell hulls for targets and try my AR20 at long range. Met a couple of guy who were target shooting. The AR20 looks a bit of a “star-wars” gun so it attracted attention. They couldn’t believe that I was going to shoot at shot shells at 50 yards and wagers were made. Made $120 towards a new PCP before I ran out of air 🙂 . Think they has wised-up anyway – there’s four guys who have had a (costly) demonstration of what a “pellet gun” can do. LOL!!
Hows it going Vana2.
Don’t know about how the FX 400 is but 6 1/2 pounds sounds nice. My FX Monsoon shot pretty good too. And the quality of the gun was very nice. Not for positive but I don’t think you would go wrong getting it.
And glad to see you got to do some air gun school’n on them guy’s. Don’t under estimate the power of a pellet is all I can say. 🙂
And the r/c airplane stuff was just taking up room. So that was good. But the car parts have been around for a while. They are what I managed to hang on to from my muscle car days when I was a kid and through out time. My dad always hollered at me about why I was hanging on to that stuff. But then if you looked in the big red barn when we lived on the farm it was full of tractor parts and stuff. So I guess I got that from him.
But yep I didn’t even get the words all the way out of my mouth when I was telling my buddy I was going to sell some of my car stuff. He interrupted me right after the words (sell car parts) came out of my mouth. He bought what I had left. So I think I will just hand it all over to the man in red this year and see what happens. And of course he already told me the the wife and kids come first. So I think if I can manage to stay on the good list for 1 more month to this day I just may get that LGU. 😉
I have had the FX Royale 400 in .22 cal. for about 5 months now. I love everything about the rifle. It shoulders and feels wonderful. The kind of accuracy you speak of is definitely there. except, I have never had the chance to shoot it at 100 yds. so I can’t speak to that. I’ll repeat, I LOVE the way the gun shoulders, how it feels in my hands, the shot cycle, weight and definitely accuracy.
However, it is not my most accurate PCP. Those would be my RAW TM1000 (.20 cal.) and Daystate Airwolf MCT (.22 cal.). Hope this helps.
Got to get me the HW50S in .177 than comes something in .22cal, I was thinking Air King or TX.
I think you will like the 50. Mine is .177 cal. and its fun to shoot.
Now the 54 and TX is also .177 so I can’t personally say how the .22 cal. versions are but I’m guessing they shoot nice too.
Hello BB and Airgunners
Wow, what a nice way to start the week. Yesterday, we had your beautiful BSA Sporter, and today we get the new Walther LGU under-lever. I’m happy to see Walther chose to make this gun ambidextrous. Too many times we find a left handed gun cost $75.00 to $100.00 over the price of a right handed version. With all these new high end airguns entering the marketplace, I think it is safe to say we are living in interesting times.
That’s a good point about the stock.
I’m left handed but honestly the only thing I do is write left handed. Everything else I do right handed.
But I know one thing that sticks in my mind about being left handed. I took Mechanical Drafting in high school and that was back in the old days before computers in class rooms and cad cam and all this modern stuff. The drawing tables and equipment was all right hand except for 2 tables.
My senior year the first day of class the teacher asked if there was anybody left handed. 6 people raised their hands. So they ended up coming and asking us all if we wanted to take another class instead. Me and another guy stayed.
So even though I shoot right handed I do appreciate the idea of the ambidextrous stock for the lefty’s out there. 🙂
Tom and Gunfun1,
I am left-handed in almost every respect. But here’s the thing: I cock an underlever with my left hand, hold the lever down with my left hand, and load the pellet into the breech with my RIGHT hand. This is where Air Arms has always blown it compared to Weirauch. My HW77 loads like a dream.
This one looks like it would, for me at least, too.
Come to think of it I cock under levers and break barrels with my left hand and always load with my right hand.
I don’t have a 77 but I do have the 54 and TX and have no problem at all loading those 2 guns. I here people say they have trouble loading them though. And I can see why you like the 77 because its open all the way across the top. It would have to be easier to load.
As a matter of fact I am right handed, but had to switch to my left abut 4 years ago due to macular degeneration in my right eye. I own mainly Weihrauchs and I have not had a problem switching hands even though they were purchased right handed. I recently purchased an HW77 in .22cal with their new ambidextrous stock, and I say it’s about time these “higher end” companies have gotten with the trend.
One of the guys at work got in a car wreck and messed up his right eye.
He had to learn to shoot left handed. And he is actually a very good shooter.
I would have to say that I would have a hard time making that switch. And just think any gun you owned before the switch if it wasn’t ambidextrous you wout maybe have to get new guns or stocks for the guns. I never thought about that before.
I’ve had a play with one of these in the shop, the only thing I felt was a bit odd was (in the one I was toying with) was the lateral movement in the cocking arm
Yes, a head to head with the TX, and the Diana 52 and the Beeman R11 please!!!, because along with tuned HW97’s those are the rifles that dominate the springer FT classes here in Europe
That Walther, I wil say, to me, shoulders bettter than a TX, snuggles in very nicely indeed 🙂
I have often thought that those Diana side levers would be some real nice shooters if they were tuned down a bit. I have not heard much of the R11 since it was released, but I know that is mostly due to the fact that it is not a hypervelocity supermagnatronic air cannon and it does not look like a Mattelomatic. That and it costs over $150. What I have heard is that it is indeed a tack driver.
The biggest issue with airgunning really catching on over here is the proliferation of firearms. All of the shooters over here are used to high velocity rifles that will drop their quarry when they gut shoot it and they think their air rifle should do the same.
Me, I grew up shooting groundhogs in the head at 500 yards. I have serious issues with anything that does not give me that type of accuracy.
The fact is, that pest control over here on soggy Island is rabbits, corvids, pigeons and rats….all of which are easily startled away by loud rimfires, air rifles are simply more effective, because, even with a 25 ft/lb rifle a headshot is imperative, which is too hard to acheive under field conditions past 50 yards or, so the 12ft/lb limit is largely inconsequential….and in fact makes our manufacturers concentrate on other elements of the shooting experience, I actually think that German and British guns are as nice as they are because of the limits….not despite them.
The R11 (HW98) is used by the Weihrauch team, and though ostensibly built on the 85/95 platform is far greater than the sum of it’s parts, I know a famous tuner over here who swears the internal components are blueprinted and hand finished, having shot a few of them I would happily pitch one against a TX
Well, I received my Model 52 today, in all but perfect condition, built in 1988 with the complex but sweet T01 trigger and the all steel sights, I’ve treated it to a Nikko Sterling 4-12x50AO mil-dot with illuminated reticule (not that I’ve ever found a use for that…..has anyone?)
A polish with gun oil to the completely unmarked blueing and a good buff with beeswax on the stock and it looks stunning
After 30 shots at tin cans I zeroed the scope with RWS Superfields (4.51) and then, at 20m leant on the side of the house printed ridiculous cloverleafs, there’s little doubt in my mind that either this rifle is more accurate than my year old HW77, or I’m more accurate with it, certainly it seems to sit steady on target better
I’ve shot a good few TX’s and I’ll be contentious here, it might be close from a bench, but I think this 26 year old blunderbuss has the measure of one.
I will say also, I rate the T01 is a better trigger than either that followed, more sophisticated than the T05 and without the silly first stage length of the T06 (just don’t take it apart)
A house full of Air Arms, BSA’s and Weihrauchs, and I think I’m in love with this wide hipped Fraulein 🙂
That large drop in velocity between .177 and .22 has had me scratching my head quite a bit, especially since the internals are the same between the LGV and the LGU, but the LGV is advertised as 100 FPS faster.
I hope someone out there can give us some real world info on the .22. Maybe GF1 can do such in the near future. 😉
I just looked.
The LGV in .22 cal. has a 15.7” barrel and the LGU in .22 cal. has a 11.81” barrel.
There’s your velocity difference.
But if i play my cards right I just may be able to do that test. 🙂
I do not think that the TX200 needs to worry about this new ” kid on the block..” The superior stock of the TX200 and its finish settles that score. That said, why do these companies make this very nice air rifle so massive and blocky ?
I guess maybe for field trials, the extra mass is a helps. Would love to see an under lever in the 8 pound range. It is OK to drill out the butt stock to reduce weight, it is okey to use thinner lines.
Ths is going to be a very interesting report, indeed. Thank you, once again, B.B.
“Old Town” Orcutt, California
Here you go.
One thing to keep in mind about under lever sproingers is that you have more metal than a break barrel sproinger. Also, the top tier sproingers generally use quality wood instead of hollow plastic stocks.
Usually that extra mass works in your favor when it comes to accuracy.
All I can say if it shoots anything like the Gamo whisper base model they sell that it is not worth anywhere near the 270 dollar price tag that it has on it as I paid 100 bucks for my whisper and it was the most cheap feeling and most buzzy twanging rattling spring gun I have ever shot. I will not say I am by any means a expert or very knowledgeable person on spring guns but I do know I bought a firepower ( crosman Quest/vantage/optimus clone ) that would have made the gamo seem like a mattelomatic compared to a TX. The 41 dollar firepower I got off Gun broker shoots as smooth as both of my crosman nitro guns and has no spring noise at all from day one. Truthfully I was very uninterested in a break barrel or underlever spring gun because I did not see how a gun that uses such a large spring could shoot good at all and that is why I only spent 41 dollars on my first spring gun and it completely changed my mind on what a spring gun was capable of shooting like and how accurately as my firepower is one of my favorite gun to shoot as all you need is the gun and pellets. it has also led me to buy a crosman Venom and Benjamin Titan that also shoot very wonderful. I sold the Gamo a week after I bought it and that was after I had bought my firepower so what I am saying is you could not give me a gamo if you were paying me to take it off your hands.
I would LOVE to see an underlever like the TX accept in the 7 to 7.5 Lbs range and also slim.
Thank you, R.R. Like to see GAMO bring back the CFX. It was a handsome air rifle. In the sporting category. No TX200. It seems weird stocks appeal to the younger generaion from the popularity of the AR. This GAMO CFR falls in that area..weird.
Wow, that’s an interesting crossbreed!
Overall design like TX-200, front of HW-97 and stock bolts like CFX. Hope it will combine all the virtues of aforementioned models (especially CFX price 😉 ). It’s not common for me, but I wanted to own this at the first sight even more than I’d like to dig in and study its inner works.
Very nice, but….. too heavy . No sale.
WHY do you think Walther made this LGU so big and heavy?
Because they didn’t make it smaller and lighter, I guess.
But why? Most airgunners don’t like a 9.5 lbs airgun, especially those that carry it to go hunting, and by mounting a scope that adds around 2 lbs. So the total weight is 11 to 11.5 Lbs, and that is heavier than a Olympic 10-M air rifle, normally at 10.5 Lbs.
I wouldn’t say that most airgunners don’t like a 9.5 lb. gun, but that isn’t the point. The LGU isn’t built for most airgunners. It is a TX-fighter and TX owners seem to like the additional weight of their guns. I don’t know wether most of them like the weight or not, but I don’t think that it costs Air Arms any sales. The cost is what limits the sales.
The LGU looks like it is made for field target. The stock is shaped for it, just like the TX stock. I think that is what the makers were thinking when the made the rifle the way they did.
My critical accuracy freestanding goes out of the window with light rifles, I may not like carrying it but if I want to hit something at 50 yards from inside a bush on a breezy day, I simply need the “wobble dampening effect” a bit of weight gives me.
And for that matter, a balance point between 6 and 8 inches in front of the trigger seems to hold still best
So plastic stocks and carbines rarely do it for me in those terms, though I like plinking with ickle rifles.
Peel 3lbs off the TX and watch it fall down the FT tables
As an aside, does the US do HFT?…hunter field target, ie, no adjusting scopes, no rangefinders, no rests, sticks, cushions etc?
No rangefinders. The rest of the things you said. Yes. Unless it has changed.
yes here in the US at least here in Alabama the HFT class is allowed bipods, focus adjustments and power level up to 12 power, stools or butt pads but no range finders.
I understand that for some a heavier rifle may make it more stable to shoot with and 25 years ago I would have to agree with you as I worked as a mechanic so I was used to picking up 200 pound cylinder heads off of an engine block from under the hood of a car or picking up 250 to 300 pound transmissions from the ground to the work table to repair these items, but now 25 years later for me to try and hold an 8 plus pound gun up for an off hand shot I would be lucky to hit the broad side of a barn because I could not hold the weight steady at all. So for me the lighter the gun the easier it is to hold steady and shoot accurately.
So there is a market for both heavy and light guns and each person can do better with one or the other type of gun.
Yes. I get that, and I’m no spring chicken at 47, I am however a landscape gardener and regularly use drills that weigh more than this Walther, as I age there’s a very good chance that I’ll be looking at something lighter
yes at 47 I was still lifting engines out of frames of Harleys that weighed 150 to 200 pounds so I understand that an 8 plus pound gun is really not that heavy, but now close to 60 and having abused my body with dirt bikes as a teenager and then street bikes and being a mechanic for 45 years I can tell you that when your joints ache constantly every day the lighter the gun the better.
Hunter class field target is the fastest-growing component of the sport. Now that the rules allow sitting down (on a backless stool) and using sticks to steady the rifle, the Hunter class has really taken off.
It sounds like the rules have changed a bit, I last competed 5 years ago, and am booked to compete again this Saturday 🙂
I’d best get googling
When I last did it you were allowed nothing and were instantly disqualified for touching your scope, which I used to quite enjoy
Mind you, I’m competing with a Diana 52 I got yesterday and I won’t even get a chance to zero the scope until I get there much less get familiar, so the minutiae of the rules is going to be the least of my shame I think
AAFTA Hunter Division in the US is very different from UK HFT, but they do share some similarities.
Your D52 sounds brilliant. Agreed on the value of some heft in a muzzle-heavy form. My Marauder with overgrown scope (for FT) is heavy, but balanced more middle-wards, and is not the most stable, especially offhand. My Walther LGR is a heavy, muzzle-heavy beast, and it just parks itself on target bulls, even in my ham fists.
Some friends have asked me if the weight of my “new” Garand is bothersome. With all the airguns, the M1 is my lightest “nice” rifle!
Yes, my son with his AA S400 describes my little collection as “dads muskets”
And he has a slight point, or did, until he bought an HW77….
How are you? Hope ok.
You brought that up and it made me think. I got that HW50s and its a lighter gun (don’t remember exactly what it weighs) and I got the 54 Air King and the TX which are both heavier than the 50.
They all shoot equally good. (the 50 really started shinning after I finally got about 1000 shots through it) I use to think a heavier gun was more accurate. But I have had many light weight guns that were accurate.
So for out in the field hunting I think I would go with a lighter gun now. But what is funny the TX is almost as heavy as the 54 but the TX feels lighter when you hold it. I think its the design of the stock. A slimmer feeling stock might trick the brain into thinking its a lighter gun.
Still here, but have not been having any fun.
There are weight and balance limits to what I can accept. Trying to find something that just feels right is not exactly easy.
I find that my springers work best when I can detect NO smoke from the muzzle, or left in the bore.
Agree with you there about the air guns. And hope things get better.
You said “Two rubber o-rings around the end of the lever keep all vibration at bay, though they don’t actually touch the muzzlebrake.”
How do these O-rings keep vibration at bay? I just don’t “see” it ?
You got me! I wrote that before examining the lever more closely.
“It’s so complex to install that Walther voids the limited lifetime warranty if anyone else outside Umarex USA does the work.” — !!??!?!?!?!?!!???
Tom, Tom, Tom. Here we go again.
Below is the FULL TEXT of the Walther warranty, which I have actually taken the time to read. . Where –precisely — does it say what you claim?
1 YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
This product is warranted to the retail consumer for one (1) year from date of purchase against
defects in material and workmanship and is not transferable.
WHAT IS COVERED
Replacement parts and labor.
WHAT IS NOT COVERED
Shipping charges to Umarex USA for defective product and damages caused by abuse or failure to
perform normal maintenance as well as any other expense. Consequential damages, or incidental
expenses, including damage to property. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of
incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
Warranty Claims and Repair for U.S. and Canadian customers only. Call Umarex USA (479)-646-4210
and ask for the Service Department. If it is determined a return is necessary, you will be issued a
Return Authorization Number. Write this number boldly on the box and return the product prepaid
to Umarex USA (Canadian customers will be provided with the address of an authroized Canadian
Repair Facility). Your name, address, phone number and a note explaining the defect found must
be included in the package. A copy of the original dated cash register receipt must accompany the
return. U.S. customers, include a check made to Umarex USA in the amount provided by Umarex
USA’s service department to cover shipping and handling.
Any implied warranties, including the implied warranties of merchantability and fi tness for a
particular purpose, are limited in duration to one (1) year from date of retail purchase. SOME
STATES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW LONG AN IMPLIED WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE ABOVE
LIMITATIONS MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. TO THE EXTENT ANY PROVISION OF THIS WARRANTY IS
PROHIBITED BY FEDERAL, STATE, OR MUNICIPAL LAW WHICH CANNOT BE PREEMPTED, IT SHALL
NOT BE APPLICABLE. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO
HAVE OTHER RIGHTS WHICH VARY FROM STATE TO STATE AND COUNTRY TO COUNTRY.
TO VALIDATE THIS WARRANTY–Send in the registration card within 30 days to: Umarex USA, 7700
Chad Colley Boulevard, Fort Smith, Arkansas 72916
or Register online at http://www.UmarexUSA.com.
I confirmed the absurdity of the trigger replacement voiding the warranty since it’s their own part! That’s why I had to write the following text on
Pyramyd Air’s page for the replacement trigger:
“By installing this upgraded trigger, you will void the manufacturer’s warranty of your LGV air rifle.”
Yesterday, I commented to Pyramyd Air management about the craziness of such a setup and copied the marketing manager of Umarex USA on that email. Umarex USA commented that the trigger is not only difficult to install but also deemed not worth the extensive time according to airgunsmiths who were authorized to do the replacement. That’s why it has to be installed by someone Umarex USA approves of. Because of the complexity and required time to install it, Pyramyd Air opted not to offer the installation service.
It’s possible Umarex USA will honor the warranty even if a user replaces the trigger with the new one. But that’s not the info Tom and I have been given by those who own the Pyramyd Air website. Nor has that statement been contradicted or corrected by Umarex USA management as recent as yesterday afternoon. If you get any official Umarex USA correspondence that guarantees they will honor the warranty when a user replaces the trigger, please print it here.
Speaking of the Pyramyd Air website and the catalog. I just got my new catalog and I like the cover for some reason. 🙂
And then there is something else inside I like. You changed the look a bit. I believe a different type of text? It seem to of cleaned up the look for some reason. Can’t place it exactly without the old one setting beside it.
The trigger job is not hard to do at all. The only thing is to go slowly or some parts may fly out of the housing. There was a very nice photo essay posted online that I googled and it was easy.
The only thing I missed on one of mine was that a little washer stayed with the original trigger due to the fact it was slathered in grease (didn’t see it) and adhered to it. On my second one I noticed the error but I still have yet to open up that first one to replace it. OK that was a mistake. Now I’m not 100% sure which one I have to re-do….DOH!!!!
As someone who is not an air gunsmith and who has done the trigger upgrade, it was fairly easy.
As far as the LGV, it is a great gun. My favorite springer ever.
…dealing with Umarex — not so much.
This is of no real consequence except to me I would believe but in all honesty in the type of work I have done all my life it would not matter if any manufacture honored their warranty to me on their products as I am very untrusting of what other people are concerned with or how they perform their work and have found that I have had no issues with vehicle or other retailers I have done business with in allowing me to do my own repairs as long as they can submit the claim for the warranty repairs and get paid for it from the manufacture. I have bought brand new cars and motorcycles in my life and have not yet allowed anyone but myself to do any work whatsoever to any of them as I do not trust any one but my self with something that I am going to drive, ride, shoot or otherwise place my life in jeopardy because of someone else’s poor workmanship or mistakes.
True–there’s no way that paying a professional gunsmith to install a Tuning Trigger (see my report after doing so here) is worthwhile–not to mention the shipping costs. It just doesn’t pencil-out and Walther and Umarex should have realized this and just made sure the better trigger was installed in Germany before the guns shipped. Buyers hate plastic triggers on this class of gun anyway!
It only took me about 20 minutes to do the job. Mods and upgrades not pencilling-out is true for many airgun smithing jobs. A gunsmith can attract customers and earn a somewhat decent fee to rebarrel and chamber nice centerfire rifles, but there’s no economic sense in doing it on an air rifle, though it’s generally a simpler job than the centerfire rifle job.
I just pressed the picky 12-land barrel out of my Diana 34 barrel block and I’m ordering a Lothar-Walther replacement barrel blank. There is no way a smith could make money on the job and it only pencils-out for DIY! Given the price of the L-W blank, even I’m smart enough to know that I’d better seize the opportunity to make into a 20 cal!
Welcome to the blog.
Thank you for some genuine observations about the metal tuning trigger. Up to now all we have had is speculation and rumor.
Thanks, BB. I’ve commented here before (about gelatin testing pellets, for example) but I can’t seem to find the time to be a regular contributor.
I actually did quickly write-up, and attempt to post here, a somewhat lengthy comment about a few details of the installation of my Turning Trigger. I also suggested an alternative approach to obtain the Tuning Trigger’s additional feature and identical performance from a plastic trigger, but I don’t know what happened to my comment. Maybe I answered the blog’s spam gate question wrong and didn’t notice that I can’t add and subtract two simple numbers, or maybe my report that I followed the Tuning Trigger instructions provided by Walther was deemed to be risky advice, lawyer-wise! (The instructions advise to simply use a vise to hold the LGV’s tube instead of employing a spring compressor.) The LGV spring is compressed under very little pre-load. Really–It’s not a big deal. Removing the caps from motorcycle forks can be much more exciting!
Someday I’ll buy more gelatin, complete the pellet expansion testing, and maybe write a guest blog for your consideration. I just bedded a scope into my Diana 34 RWS lock down mount using Acryglass and gained another 25 MOA plus, which is about three times more than shims can reasonably provide. I can now keep the scope’s elevation dial in the first half of its range and keep the erector spring tight. If it turns out to be a robust and reliable solution, I’ll bed another air rifle mount and scope, take photos, and do a write-up. As I’ve mentioned here before, I like the Burris Pos-Align rings but I think bedding can provide a good (but nearly irreversible) alternative for scope alignment problems.
Due to the age of this blog entry, I don’t know whether either of you will see this update to my Tuning Trigger report. I hope so. I think the information is very useful to LGV and LGU owners and I might even make an “off topic” post to bring you up to date with this finding. Having shot my LGV with both triggers, I believe the conclusions in the following linked report are probably true. I’m still waiting for what I thought was just the “break-in feel” of my Tuning Trigger to correct itself. Maybe it will and I don’t exactly remember the pre-break-in feel of my original trigger a year ago, but I know it did improve with use.
I might just have to install a “roller” into my expensive metal Tuning trigger to restore the feel of the original plastic trigger, yet preserve the clear and obvious materials superiority that only metal can provide! 😉
The best design would be an adjustable second stage “roller,” I think. No ones done it yet–at least not for the LGV/LGU.
“The first thing our good “Pennsylvania Yankee” told us was that there was really no need for the metal trigger.”
“The combination of the rounded trigger screw face, with more reach and the rear roller give indeed a much better feel to the trigger pull than the metal trigger blade.”
Now I’m thinking that the Walther accessories department really socked it to us (metal trigger zealots)! Walther knew that leveraging the irrational beliefs of hard core traditional airgun customers could produce big-time profits. No wonder they ship rifles with plastic triggers. It’s all a giant marketing conspiracy! 😉
See you at SHOT,
Another example of how lawyers control us. Ed
I have to ask. What is the cocking effort of the LGU. I don’t see it listed anywhere.
The LGV is listed at 38 pounds. Maybe the cocking effort is lighter on the LGU and that could be that they used a lighter spring in the LGU and also affecting velocity.
But then again the geometry of the the break barrel verses the under lever cocking could make the cocking effort change.
Have you done the trusty bathroom scale trick yet on the LGU?
When I do a test I use Part 1 to describe the gun, like I did today. This is where I will show the most photos, usually. And I give the weight, the barrel length and so on.
Part 2 is the velocity test and I will also describe the cocking effort and trigger pull. If I plant to adjust the trigger I will also do it in this report.
Part 3 is the accuracy test, or for those rifles that are going farther, like I expect the LGU to, the first accuracy test.
No wonder I didn’t see the cocking effort this time around. It wasn’t suppose to be there!
What Was I think’n.
But nice to have a refresher course in the outline of the blog reports from time to time. 😉
The written Warranty is very clear:
“WHAT IS NOT COVERED
“…defective product and damages caused by abuse or failure to perform normal maintenance as well as any other expense(, c)onsequential damages, or incidental expenses, including damage to property.”
Nothing about doing your own work. But if you trash it in the process, that’s abuse, and on you. Fair enough.
If UMAREX and/or Walther are on verbal record as saying they will not stand behind their own written warranty (????), — well that’s truly troubling. Caveat Emptor.
But it remains inaccurate to tell people replacing the trigger voids the warranty. It does not.
Give it up!
Walther printed one thing in their manual, and has now evolved a different policy.
Things change. We don’t always like the changes, but that’s how it goes. I have a Beeman Lifetime Warranty for an R1 I still own, but the warranty was changed many years ago and the new warranty has now expired. Such things are called ironies, and they happen all the time!
The point is, I spoke to the Umarex USA marketing manager yesterday and got the policy that I printed in this report. So, regardless of what is printed in the manual, that is how the company intends to proceed.
Maybe it’s time to shoot the messenger?
Notice how I ain’t askin’ if someone needs a hug? No kids table for me this year.
My dream is that the LGU is more accurate and less hold sensitive than my LGV. I was terribly disappointed by the FWB Sporter. I am still looking for a springer that’s more accurate than my LGV which is more accurate than my TX200.
I think I’m about ready to find out about the TX200 and the LGU. Only one problem I don’t think it will be a fair test. My TX200 is .177 and the LGU will be a .22 cal.
I just hate gun comparisons of different brands when they ain’t the same caliber. So strike that one out for me. I will just have to enjoy shooting them as they are. 😉
I don’t know where you got your information from, but it appears to be wrong, despite it being written.
The Walther LGU has a limited lifetime warranty, not a 1 year warranty.
This is from the owner’s manual of the Walther LGV, which has the same warranty:
Do not return defective or damaged product to the dealer. If your airgun needs repair, call Umarex
USA (479) 646-4210 and ask for the Service Department or visit http://www.umarexusa.com. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE IT! Your airgun requires special tools and fixtures to repair it. Any disassembly or modification not performed by Umarex USA will void the warranty.
12. Repair / Service / Warranty
WALTHER® LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
This warranty covers Walther LGV air rifles (original owner) against any defect in workmanship and materials for the life of the airgun. Any Walther LGV distributed by Umarex USA and covered by this warranty, which is found to have a defect in workmanship or materials, will be replaced or repaired,at the option of Umarex USA, Inc.
Parts that can wear out, such as seals and mainsprings, will be warranted for the registered airgun for 18 months from the original retail purchase date.
Repairs can only be made by our Authorized Service Center. This limited lifetime warranty becomes invalid for any gun, which is handled improperly, modified, or disassembled. Should any defect appear, call Umarex USA service dept, (479) 646-4210, to obtain an RA (Return Authorization) Number. Once you have received an RA Number, package the gun carefully in a solid shipping box and include a money order or check in the amount quoted by Umarex USA to cover the cost of shipping and handling. Write the RA Number boldly on the box and return, prepaid to…
Also Steve, your concerns would be better received if your tone were less condescending.
B.B. I’m very upset that you have written this report, I was trying to not hear any news about this rifle, now I may have to buy it. What a beautiful ambi stock, yes i’m mostly a lefty, and excellent metal coloring. If the .22’s turn out to be accurate I don’t care to much about the speed. Thanks.
I suspect this rifle is squarely pitched at the Field Target crowd, and will therefore be capped at 12ft/lb or below to save competitors having to detune.
That’s what they have the .22 CSL. version rated at.
Suppose to say .22 cal.
Maybe that is why the .22 cal is so slow. Would they consider selling an FAC rated one for the market if a demand was seen?
Not related to the Walther but I wanted to say and this is the only place I know.
I got my new Pyramyd catalog today and I just love it when a new catalog comes. I pour over it from cover to cover.
We have a metal trigger on the LGU in the UK for some reason, I think we may be even more reactionary than the US when it comes to these things (though it never bothers me tbh)
I have the LGU in 22. It avg 579.8 FPS with JSB 15.89 that weigh 16.1 pm my scales.
Thank you. That is in line with what has been reported for GF1’s .22 LGU.
It’s nice looking….but not TX200 nice looking. However it costs less than the TX but my preference remains with the TX.