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Education / Training A vintage Daisy Number 25: Part 1

A vintage Daisy Number 25: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Daisy 25
Vintage Daisy Number 25.

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • SHOT Show
  • A great find!
  • My interest
  • My collection
  • This BB gun
  • Cocking
  • Takedown
  • Number 25?
  • Sights
  • Summary


I am at the SHOT Show in Las Vegas this week. Today I am at Media Day at the Range, where I get to shoot any airguns that are there. Not every dealer attends this event, but about 200 of them do and I get to shoot not only airguns, but any firearms I want. Imagine 200 firing ranges, side-by-side, a quarter-mile long with 2,000 shooters.

Having said that, when I return, I have to write tomorrow’s blog with pictures and get it up before I go to a hosted dinner at 6:30. The blog publishes at 9 pm, here on the West Coast, so I’m getting crunched on both ends. My reports will be slim and telegraphic this week. I’ll have more to say when I’m back in the office next week.

One thing that has helped me is that most airgun manufacturers have already spilled their beans on social media. You already know as much as I do about many of the new products. By the time I report on them the first time they will be old news. So, I will try to ferret out the real news and separate myself from the You Tube showmen who can’t keep the camera off themselves!

All I ask is that you play nice for me and help the new guys out with their questions. I have 11 football fields with 12.5 miles of aisles to walk over the next four days, along with 64,000 other visitors and 2,000 displayers (that’s maybe 20,000 more people) from 111 countries and all 50 of the United States! Thanks for understanding. Now, let’s get started.

The other day I used a vintage Daisy Number 25 pump gun in Part 2 of the report on the Dust Devil BBs. A reader’s question convinced me that not everyone knows the Number 25 Daisy as well as I, so I thought I would present it here.

A great find!

When my wife and I lived in Maryland there was a local flea market every Sunday at a mall. Most Sundays it was populated with the same vendors whose inventory never changed. Once a month, though, they held a Super Sunday, and the flea market grew by 500 percent. That’s when the one-time sellers came out of the woodwork, and that’s where I found many collectible airguns. Oh, if I could only go back now and spend the hundred dollars that the guy wanted for each of two Daisy Sentinels! They would be worth $750 apiece today!

One Sunday I spotted a Daisy Number 25 pump BB gun on a table. The condition was like new and it was price at only $40, so I figured it for a recent one from Rogers, Arkansas, but you always look. When I looked I was surprised to see Plymouth, Michigan stamped on top of the gun. That meant that this one was made before Daisy’s move to Arkansas in 1958. The move took many months and there were probably parts made in Plymouth that were assembled in Arkansas, but the Plymouth name on the gun helps us roughly pin down it’s age — at least the latest it could have been made.

Daisy 25 stamping
No doubt this one was made in Plymouth!

On the early side, this gun is loaded with clues. First, it has a plastic stock and pump handle. Daisy started experimenting with plastics on their production guns in the very early 1950s. The first plastics they used were not good and over time many have warped from sunlight and heat. But they changed the formula in the 1960s, which ended most of these problems. Heat was still a problem, but they were far less sensitive than at first. My vintage 25 has the first batch of plastic and yet is still in museum-quality condition.

This gun is also painted, rather than blued. Daisy started doing that in the early ’50s, as well. Painting with electrostatic paint cut time from the manufacturing process and saved them money. Kids of my age saw the painted guns with plastic stocks and immediately complained that Daisy was cheapening the design, which they were. Suddenly wood-stocked guns that were blued became more valuable and none moreso than the Daisy 25. Is that the reason this particular BB gun lasted from 1952-58 all the way to the 1990s (and even until today) in like-new condition? Was it a gun some kid didn’t care for and never used?

My interest

I have been fascinated by the Daisy 25 since my childhood. I bought my first one — with wood and blued steel — from my sister’s boyfriend for $5 of paper route money in the late 1950s. A few weeks later the power suddenly went south and I panicked. I tried to take the gun apart (something even a grown man will find challenging) and ended up with a shopping bag full of parts. I sold them to a friend for a quarter, just to get them out of my sight. A few days later he comes back with the gun in perfect condition and tells me his dad fixed it. His dad told him he had to oil the gun often or it would lose power, just as it had for me!

My collection

When I was first married to Edith money was tight and I couldn’t afford airguns. But one day I found an old 25 at a flea market in Gettysburg and bought it for $50. That was a lot of money for us, but this time I knew how to keep the gun running. Eventually I stripped it and lube-tuned it for The Airgun Letter. I still have that gun today.

When I started The Airgun Letter in 1994, I attended airgun shows where Daisy 25s were everywhere. Over many years I wound up with a small collection that was quite nice — everything from the first 25 that was made in 1913-14 to the one that’s featured in this report.

Happy Daisy Boy
The Happy Daisy Boy.

All but one of my 25s were made in Plymouth, because I still had a chip on my shoulder about Daisy painting the metal and putting plastic on the guns. The one exception was a boxed Centennial 25 that Daisy sold in 1986, to celebrate the first century of the company. It was blued and had a wood stock, so I reckoned it belonged in my collection.

Daisy 25 Centenniall
The 1986 Daisy Number 25 Centennial came in a special box that was full of documentation celebrating its long heritage. The gun was wood and steel — just as it should be!

But I’m not a collector, so several years ago I sold most of my 25s at airgun shows. A special one went to Volvo — a former reader of this blog. I kept both the original gun I bought at Gettysburg and this nice one I’m writing about today, along with some parts for a couple others. But the rest are history for me.

This BB gun

This Number 25 is a painted model with a brown hollow styrene stock. It weighs 3 lbs. exactly and takes a 24 lbs. of effort to cock. If it was a breakbarrel cocking might seem easy, but pulling the cocking handle straight back isn’t as easy as breaking down a barrel. As an adult I can cock it relatively easily, but when I was a kid these things seemed next to impossible!

We have already seen the velocity with both standard 5.1-grain steel BBs (360 f.p.s,. with a 13 f.p.s. spread) and the new frangible Dust Devil BB (365 f.p.s with 23 f.p.s. spread). I could test the velocity with other steel BBs and with the lead Smart Shot, but BB guns are usually so regular that you would be bored. I just gave you the weight and cocking effort, and the trigger pull is a rather smooth 4 lbs. 3 oz. The trigger blade is hung in such a way that the pull is both back and up.

The gun is 36-1/2 inches long with a 13-1/2-inch pull. It’s sized for older children and will fit most average adults.


The gun is cocked by pulling the plastic pump handle straight back, which causes the cocking linkage to break in two in a distinctive way. Nothing in the firearm world resembles it and although Daisy advertised it as looking like your father’s gun. It really didn’t.

Daisy 25 cocked
The 25 looks very different when it’s cocked.


One of the really cool aspects of the 25 is the fact that it takes down. Loosen a single large-headed screw and it comes apart in two pieces that are roughly the same size, making transportation easier. Dad’s model 61 Winchester slide action .22 did the same thing. Most people don’t use this feature, but it’s so very cool just to know that it’s there!

Daisy 25 takedown screw
Takedown screw.

Over 20 million Number 25s have been manufactured, and, because the model is still in production today, the story isn’t over. The Red Ryder may be Daisy’s best-known BB gun, but the Number 25 Pump may be their most prolific.

Number 25?

Why do I slavishly keep referring to the gun as a NUMBER 25? Why don’t I call it a MODEL 25? Simple. It’s not a model 25. In fact to my knowledge, Daisy never made a model 25. The Blue Book refers to it as a Model 25 and Pyramyd AIR lists it that way, so I suppose I’m just being a dinosaur about this. No problems. In a few million years I’ll be a tank of gas in somebody’s car!


The rear sight is fascinating! It’s both a peep and a conventional open notch. You flip it to the one you want to use. Does it make the BB gun more accurate? Of course not! Also I have never seen one that was straight up and down. Whether the peep or notch are selected, both are somewhat tilted when they are as far as they will go.

Daisy 25 rear sight
Rear sight.


That’s all for today. I will skip Part 2, since it’s already been done, and go straight to accuracy testing next. This will be the first time in about 25 years that I have shot this BB gun for accuracy — I think. And yes, I will test the Dust Devils with this one.

Now please remember — I am at the SHOT Show all day and being entertained each evening. I have just three hours to look at all the comments and write the next blog, because it has to be ready by 9 pm. I’m on the west coast. Please hold your questions and you veterans please help me!

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

74 thoughts on “A vintage Daisy Number 25: Part 1”

  1. B.B.,

    Since you are pressed for time maybe a photoblog would be more appropriate. Just a short blurb/description per photo from the SHOT Show.


    PS: Section Takdown (Takedown)

  2. BB
    Gas in a car in a few million years?

    I don’t think so. They will be riding around with horses and horse drawn carriages by that time. 😉

    And hope you can get to enjoy yourself some at the show. Sounds like a lot of work to me.

      • BB
        Saying model of something is like slang.

        Like when you talk about cars. Example: “That’s a nice late model Corvette”. Or “I like the early model Corvette’s better.”

        I guess in those terms I could say I like the early model #25 better than the later model #25.

        I don’t think people are actually say it’s a model 25 when they use that term. Just say’n. 🙂

      • BB
        See what happens when you do that.

        Now I think of this. Why are you even calling it a number 25. It’s definitely not a letter 25.

        How about just plain ole 25. Sorry just in one of those moods today. 🙂

  3. B.B.,

    Nice article and a look at some vintage bb guns. I love that scroll work! Wow, a take down bb gun. That is the first time that I have ever heard of that. Very cool.

    Have fun and (take care of yourself) at the Show. Do whatever is easiest for you on posting a blog. Siraniko’s idea of photos would be nice and would kind of be like that we are there with you,.. seeing stuff in real time.


  4. BB,

    So my 1959 Model 99 was made right after they moved to Arkansas and then in 1960 they changed them to use the same style magazine tube as the Number 25. Awesome! Another tidbit of relatively useless information to store away and amaze others with at some future date.

    Enjoy the Show!


  5. I don’t follow many of the manufacturers on social media or elsewhere, so do get a lot of my SHOT Show news from the blog. Looking forward to your reports, and sending wishes for stamina your way!

  6. My first gun – circa 1963. Seemed like a powerful, fearsome weapon. Can clearly recall the smell of oil vapor and the sound of loading a cellophane packet of BB’s.

  7. I had a Number 25 for a month or so. I had been attracted to it because it was a repeater. While I found it a fun gun to shoot and plink with it lacked the accuracy, energy and range of my Slavia 618 pellet rifle and I traded it away.

    Still, I liked the Number 25 and within its’ range it shot well – well enough that I just put one on my wish list as it brings back fond memories.

    Looking forward to the accuracy tests.

    B.B. If you have an opportunity, it would be very interesting to compare the accuracy of your vintage 25 against a modern one.


    • Hank

      You triggered me. Not in the millennial way I think the pellet gun I had may have been a Slavia. Not certain but it sounds familiar. Maybe that’s what was being sold in Canada?
      Google search time.

      • Idaho,

        In the mid to late 60’s, where I grew up on the north shore of Montreal the Slavias (there were a couple of models) were the only brand that I saw.

        Every now and then a kid would show up with a British rifle (until his Dad found out LOL!). Wasn’t until well into the 70’s that we started seeing other brands in the stores. Didn’t see a European pellet gun until I bought my FWB124 in 1980.

        I still have my original Slavia 618 and shoot it a couple of times a year. 🙂


    • Hank,

      You really need a bb gun in your collection. My personal recommendation is a Daisy 1959 Model 99. That is what I have. I can load hundreds of bbs into it and shoot carpenter bees at 5 – 10 yards all day long. In 1960 they changed it to where it used the 50 shot spring loaded magazine like on the Number 25.

      • RR

        I actually do have a BB gun in the house – it’s an old Red Rider (I think).

        I like the Number 25 and I have been looking at a 499. Who knows, I may just go for one.


        • Hank,

          499 w/RR spring,… just sayin’. 😉 Or,… just stock. Either way, you would very pleased and its is Grandkid friendly,…. well,.. it might have been,.. that is if you had not spoiled them on the higher end stuff already! 😉

          Really, they are nice and very accurate.

          • Chris,

            Been following your exploits at a distance and have been envious of the fun you are having modifying and tweaking your rifles. 🙂

            If I get a 499 I will be talking to you about it… ditto if I decide to put a regulator in the Maximus.

            Through chance and design I have acquired more rifles than I have had time to really explore. Now that I am retired I’ll have more time and I plan to get a lot of trigger time on each.

            You know that I make purchases for specific (though overlapping) applications. I can see my way clear to add a couple of bb-guns to the stable. I know that as a kid bb-guns did not fit my needs and I didn’t give them a fair shake, will see about fixing that.


      • RR,

        Went and checked – its a Daisy 105 B.

        Its in good condition and seen relatively little use – especially in the 25 + years that I have had it.

        I oiled it the other day and plan on picking up a pack of BBs for it the next time I’m at the hardware store. I am curious about its’ effective range and what the Chrony has to say about the velocity.


      • Hi Dave,

        Yes, I remember Belmont Park. It was a bit of a distance from where I lived in Pierrefonds but we would get a group together and cycle there 2 or 3 times in the summer. IIRC they had a good variety of rides.

        Then there was La Ronde 🙂

        Know you are out west, were you originally from La Belle Province?


  8. Got my No. 25 in later 1940’s. Wood stock and blued steel. Did not have a peep sight. Cocking was a two handed struggle at first. Liked carrying it cocked because it looked cooler than my friends’ Red Ryders. Again, we thought it had more power than the lever guns. Alas it is long gone.

    Am not expecting BB to reply. Perhaps a reader who has a similar No. 25.


    • Idaho/Halfstep, looks like the Crosman multi shot break barrel has an “extra” step to load the round that the Gamo does not. If you watch the videos you’ll see on the Gamo the shooter just cocks the barrel and shoots. On the Crosman, the shooter has to cock the barrel, the “Load” the round from the clip/magazine to the breach with a small straight push/pull lever or “bolt” if you will. Not a real big deal, but it’s still an extra step.


  9. Well, B.B., you must be fit and recovered to go to an event like this. And just in time too. The SHOT Show is always fascinating. I love that pic of the boy with the Daisy. He even has a tie on, but I see no sign of any eye protection. That’s one area where we have made undeniable progress.

    I can fill in the time with a report on my 8000 grit Ice Bear stone. I carefully sharpened with it, went through my extensive stropping on two different strops and then tried the blade on the hair of my forearm. Dull as could be! Here’s another failure on the level with my Garand, or so it seemed. Then for no particular reason, I thought to test out my stropping process. There’s no reason to suppose anything was wrong with it. On the other hand, having dressed all my stones to perfection and getting some good results earlier, they couldn’t be the problem either. With the next knife, I did a before and after test with the stropping. The knife cut well before stropping and poorly after, so there’s my answer. How can you screw up stropping? That’s my next question. Possibly, I’m simply doing too much with 60 strokes on the blade. Anyway, I resharpened all the knives and did some light stropping with 10 strokes. Results were better. Some blades were extremely sharp and others ordinary, but that may be due to the blades. I would definitely recommend the Ice Bear to up your game.


    • Matt61
      Don’t you stop as your stropping after so many strokes to see if your getting the blade sharper then if you keep going your dulling it.

      In other words maybe somewhere in those 69 strokes you actually had a real sharp blade. Then you kept going and dulled it.

      I would think you should check at various times in the stropping process.

    • Matt,

      It is EASIER to mess up a blade with a strop than with anything! I have ruined straight razors that I just sharpened by stropping incorrectly.

      Use NO PRESSURE on the blade as it is dragged across the strop. If it starts out sharp, it will “sing” as the tiny edges get aligned. You can actually hear those edges aligning. I have stretched straight razors shaves out to over three weeks by stropping well. Before they were done in 5 shaves — if I even got that.


      • Thanks for checking in amidst your busy schedule. This explains a few things. I have heard the blade singing, and I liked it so well that I bore down even harder for more strokes. No wonder the voice croaked. I used to wonder, after hearing about the amazing feats of the 8000 grit stone, if there was any need to strop it. The literature suggested that there was. But I see that the missing ingredient is a light touch. Incidentally, one doesn’t get that impression from barbers who I visualize as stropping with great vigor. But I didn’t really pay attention, and anyway, the direct evidence is clear.

        I had actually heard that you use a very light touch with the higher grit stones. One source said to use no pressure although Grandmaster FrankB did not agree. I suppose that you use lightER pressure that diminishes to virtually nothing with the strop. Thanks. Hang in there with the demands of the SHOT Show.


        • Matt61
          There is a technique we use at work when we are sharpening cutting tools.

          It’s called sparking out the wheel. Of course we are using a surface grinder. Usually the tool is secured to a table that goes back and forth and in and out by hand operation. Then a grinding wheel of various grits is put on the spindle that spins the grinding wheel.

          But the sparking comes on at the end of the sharpening. In other words all the rough uneven cutting edge has been taken down to a true finnish. Then comes the sparking. The reason it’s called that is because the wheel sparks as you move your cutting tool back and forth under the grinding wheel. So to spark it out you use little or no pressure from the grinding wheel and yo move back and forth till the sparks stop.

          That then is when you sparked the wheel out. But yep that gives the sharpest cutting edge on our cutting tools when done that way.

        • Matt61,

          I was going to suggest the less stropping idea. I am no where as advanced as you, not even close,.. but as I am sure you can attest to,.. certain blades (steel types) react very differently to being sharpened. Some seem to take a quick edge with little effort and others just never seem to get truly sharp no matter what you do.

          Maybe some just require a different approach? If you have thoughts on how to discern that, I would be interested in hearing them.


    • Matt,

      I used to keep my pocket knives very sharp it is not always that good of a thing. One time when in my late teens I was duck hunting and started to cut some tulles to make a blind. Well on my first stroke I cut a two inch slice in my waders right at the top of the boot. I was about a quarter mile of wading from dry land and much of it was above the slice. Most of my waders leaked in those days so I decided along with much laughing from my partner to stay out anyway. It was a very wet and cold day. Now my pocket knives are not that sharp and keep a usable edge a little longer.

      My kitchen knives I try to keep sharp. But when other folks come over and are not use to sharp knives they often cut themselves. I try to warn them but don’t always remember.

      So a sharp knife has its place but can cause trouble. Now a razor that is different I have never tried to sharpen a razor. I bet once you get the stropping down It will be easy for you after that.


  10. BB
    NEW Crosman DPMS SBR Full Auto rifle. Does it have a metal upper/ lower receiver area or plastic composite ? Same question for the rail assembly.
    The weight 6.5 lbs. is there and video has what looks like chipped paint?
    Can’t get a confirmation from PA or Crosman yet. If you get the chance please check.
    Bob M

      • GF1
        There is a short video on u tube with their full auto pistol on it firing very fast !
        The dust cover even pops open with bolt operation, and the shot count is not limited in F/A operation. Looks like they went all out on this one and used metal? It will be the one to have if you like black rifles !

        • Bob M
          I did see the video. Cool stuff. Alot of firearm sites came up on the search also talking about the Crosman version. Sounds like Crosman may have another winner. 🙂

      • BB
        I know exactly how you feel !
        After weeks of being force fed information in class and trying to memorize the location of every component of every operating system of a Boeing 767 and its’ operation and limitations so I could sign it off for safe for flight … without ever working on one! My brain was headed for meltdown. One more day and they would have had to carry me out of class.
        Please don’t go out of your way for the info, just try to keep it in mind if the occasion to check it out occurs. It was really hard to tell with the MTR77. Plastic has really evolved these days.
        Glad you mentioned the fact that you sold off your ‘stockpile’ of Model 25’s. I was beginning to doubt your ‘non-collector’ status there for a bit.
        Looking forward to your posts on the show.
        Thanks, Bob M

  11. I have some new data today on the Crosman 101 that I have been working on:

    Yesterday I showed a target at 20 yards that gave a 1.5 inch group of 10 shots using Crosman Premier Domed .22 caliber 14.3 gr. pellets from the cardboard box (no longer available). That was with nine pumps. That was not great but much better than the original barrel.

    I have the Maximus Hunter barrel in .22 caliber on it. That was my plan from the start so the poor performance of the original barrel did not bother me. I think I can tune up this combination to be much better than it is now.

    The leather seals for the pump piston were worn out. So I ordered a flat head piston from Mac-1 with the o-ring. Actually I ordered more than one. I found out that the connecting rod from the pump linkage to the pistion is 5/16 th inch but the threads are cut in a way that leaves the full outside diameter of the pump rod on the threaded portion also. On my pump rod the threads were either worn down on the pump end or someone ran a standard die on it. So my piston head was loose on the threads. My original plan was to make a new rod and keep the original one all thogether. My new rod was also loose in the new piston. My original rod had the brass fitting for the felt oiler and the leather gasket seal compressor on the smaller end of the pump rod.

    After taking the felt oiler fitting off the original rod requiring significant heat and a little bit of destruction I was able to remove the fitting that held the felt oiler. Then I was able to turn the rod around to use the new piston head from Mac-1 on oposite end. The loose threads on the other end worked fine on the plunger guide end and locked in with the lock nut. I then put the pump linkage together and tested the length until I got close to zero head space on the piston head. Ok that is all done and the gun is back together.

    The Maximus barrel is a little smaller than the original so it is a little loose in the barrel bands. I plan on addressing this later with either set screws or Loctite.

    The Pump tube on this gun is brass and a smaller diameter than on the Benjamin pumpers I am more familiar with. It also has a slot for the pump linkage that is open all the way to the muzzle end. The Benjamin tubes are connected at the muzzle providing more rigidity against twisting. The linkage on the Benjamins require putting the linkage together while inside the tube while inserting the connecting pins through holes in the pump tube.

    Today I shot two sets of number of pumps verses velocity using Crosman Premire pellets out of the tin (might as well save the ones from the box).

    Number…………….Set 1……………………………………Set 2

    ..3.. …………311…………3.1………………………..386…………4.7

    Below is a chart of the data


    • Benji-Don
      I use a couple of drops of super glue on barrel bands. It will hold in place tight. And it can be broke free if needed. On the back one of course. That front one definitely needs addressed though. That one wiggling around from pumping has to be knocking that barrel in all kinds of different directions.

      But sounds like your on a roll otherwise.

        • Benji-Don
          Check out the for a Crosman 760. It uses a bolt and nut to cinch down on the barrel.

          The old (model) 760’s had that made out of steel instead of the new (model) 760’s that are plastic.

          Maybe call Crosman and see if they have the steel ones available still. That is if it will work.

          • I checked with Crosman awhile back and they no longer have the old steel bands in stock.

            I bought one from a custom shop back then they have been out of stock for a while. Custom metal ones are still for sale in the UK so that may be an option at some point.

            If I had a lathe and milling machine it would be easy to make one that did not have the barrel band and bolted onto the tube. That would take care of a lot in one step.

            I will be going one step at a time and it may take awhile. It may even have to wait till I get some time at my cabin and have my friend make one. He will be able to do it easily.


          • GF1,

            Guess my reply disappeared. I will be looking for a metal band once I see if the 13XX works. I think they are the same as the 760’s not sure.

            It may wait till I get some time at my cabin and have my friend make one that will be bolted on and make the tube more ridged. An will not have a barrel band.


            • Benji-Don
              The 760 will fit the 1300 tube. But they are different than a 1300 pump linkage band.

              No front sight first off. 1300 is not a tight fit to the barrel and you do have to drill the smaller diameter out where the barrel passes through on the 1300 front band. They step the diameter down and the the barrel of the 1300’s has two diameters on the front of it.

              Plus of course the 760 band has that nut and bolt that can be tightened to cinch down on the barrel.

          • This is my third try to respond. Not sure what is happening. Just disappears.

            I will be using a metal bracket one way or another. The bolt is a good idea will help hold the tube from twisting. I may need to wait until I can spend some time at my cabin and have my neighbor up there make a custom one without the barrel band and sight.


  12. Oh,

    If you are wondering what happened on the first set of data. I forgot to screw the cocking knob in after leaving it with a couple of pumps of air overnight. I was originally going to do the sets with two shots in a row with three pumps and then two shots with four pumps etc. I am glad I didn’t and shot one set after the other. It is pretty obvious at what pump in the first set I discovered the lose knob. As the knob is tightened it applies compresses the hammer spring.

    The whole first set of shots has some anomalies not sure what else was going on?

    Below is a picture of the Gun this morning.

    • Don,

      A fine report, with supporting visuals,.. as usual. Nice looking finished product there. You know it has to be better. Looking forwards to further tests where you will find it’s limits.

      • Chris, Thanks

        I just finished putting the Crosman 2300S barrel weight on it. With this front sight post I will eliminate the barrel band front sight allowing the barrel to shift in relation to the front sight. Raining today so no target shooting hopefully tomorrow.

        The post sight completely covers the original leaving a sharp black band all the way around. I will not need to remove the original front sight at this time. This will make it much better to set the sight in relation to the bulls eye,

        The loose front barrel band will still need to be addressed I think. This will not keep the barrel from bouncing around in the band during a shot. I am going to try and do one thing at a time so I will know what is really making a difference.

        Here is a picture with the new barrel weight.


        • Don,

          Check out that air stripper/baffle that is on my Maximus that I posted over the weekend,… on your next PA order. I think it is working better, but have yet to really put it to the test. (1 test at 50 yards so far). It is cheap, like $4.98. Since you have the Maximus barrels, it would be an easy and cheap thing to try. Screws right on.

          My Maximus does not have rear sights, but if it did, I thought of trying to make a front sight since the protective cap screws off and would act as a good mounting point for something homemade. Just an idea,.. since you have the Maximus Hunter barrels. I cannot really do opens well,.. so I am of no first hand help on the topic.

          • Chris,

            I have been following you and your Maximus. It does not look like the stripper/baffle has a front sight on it. Let me know.

            The 101 does not lend to optics easily. Although at some point I may give it a go. For now it will stay with open sights.


            • Don,

              Yes, the stripper has no front sights. I was thinking of using it as a “clamping” tool,.. for a ring that would have something attached to it. Same as the stock muzzle cap.

              Removing muzzle air turbulence would have to be a good thing,.. I would think. I am just tossing it out there as an option to possibly improve accuracy a bit more. Yep, non-scoping guns are a bummer.

              I did see some clamp on 11mm rail adapters that would clamp onto something like my 2240,.. but reviews were mixed on stability.

              I enjoy your reports and am just tossing out some new thoughts for ya’. 😉

                • GF1,

                  I gathered as much. A (light) dot or laser seemed like the only viable option if using them,.. from what I could glean from the reviews on the PA site. It might be an option for the 2240 pistol that I have now, since I am leaning towards a Custom Shop build anyways.

                  • Chris
                    If these are the ones your talking about don’t waist your time. It will do nothing but cause you agrivation. Even with a light dot sight. They don’t clamp good.

                    Save yourself the trouble and get at least a steel breech for it. You will be happy.

                    And on the other hand you like peep sights. Take and rotate your rear sight 180° and you now have a peep sight.


  13. Great article, looking forward to your next one. I have a vintage Model 25 that my father won as a prize in the 1930’s that was made for lead shot. Had it repaired because it had used steel bb and was double shooting. I enjoy your DIY on repairing vintage air guns, what I would be interested is repairing something more common like resealing a Crosman 760 Pumpmaster, as the one I have will not pump air. I could have a professional do it but it would cost more than a new air gun. An article on how to do this would be appreciated.

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