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Air Guns Meopta MeoSport R 3-15 SFP scope: Part Two

Meopta MeoSport R 3-15 SFP scope: Part Two

Meopta MeoSport 3-15
Meopta MeoSport 3-15X50 SFP scope.

Part 1 MeoSport R 3-15X50 SFP scope
Part 5 Air Venturi Avenger Bullpup
Part 4 Air Venturi Avenger Bullpup
Part 3 Air Venturi Avenger Bullpup
Part 2 Air Venturi Avenger Bullpup
Part 1 Air Venturi Avenger Bullpup

This report covers:

  • Today’s test — boxing
  • Confused
  • Group 1
  • Group 2
  • Group 3
  • Group4
  • Discussion and group 5
  • Meopta reticle adjustments are precise
  • Easy test?
  • Bipod test will be next
  • Summary

Today we take a closer look at the new Meopta MeoSport R 3-15X50 SFP scope. It’s been awhile, but now this scope is stocked by Pyramyd AIR and you guys and gals can get one if you like. I first told you about this scope in Day One of the 2022 SHOT Show report. Here is what I said then:

“This is an entry-level scope for those who want a Meopta but don’t want to pay great big bucks. Unfortunately they can’t just give it away, either. So it’s priced at a retail of $450. It has a 30mm tube for a bright image. But here is the deal. It isn’t just the scope, it also comes with the mounts. And the mounts are kinda special.”

The SFP stands for second focal plane, which means it’s like all other variable-powered scopes whose reticle lines don’t enlarge as the power changes.

This is also the scope that has lines engraved on the bottom of the 30mm tube and also on the rings that come with it, so you can level the scope easily. I talked you through that in Part One. That is what I meant by the mounts being “kinda special.”

Today’s test — boxing

What I want to do today is test the accuracy of the reticle adjustments by “boxing” the reticle. What I mean by that is I will shoot a 5-shot group at 25 yards, then adjust the scope a certain number of clicks in a certain direction. I will go 12 clicks to the right. Then I will shoot a second 5 shots at the same target. That group should move to the right of the first group. Then I’ll adjust the same number of clicks (12) down and shoot a third 5-shot group. Then I’ll come back the same number of clicks in the opposite direction (left 12 clicks) and shoot another group. That will be four groups and, if this scope has precise adjustments, the centers of those groups should form the corners of a box.

For the last group of five I will adjust up 12 clicks and shoot at the same target. We should see a box of four groups, with the first one being slightly larger since it now has ten shots instead of five. I know the Avenger Bullpup .25 that the scope is mounted on does best with JSB Exact King Heavy Mark II pellets, so that’s what I’ll use. Here we go.

I had to sight in the rifle to group away from the center of the bullseye. I won’t just be shooting a group of five or ten shots. I’ll be shooting 25 shots by the time this is finished — 5 above the center of the bull, five to the right, five below that, five to the left of that and the last five on top of the first group.


I’m not trying to confuse you but until you see this on paper it might not make any sense. Here are the first 4 groups I shot. I will explain what I did after showing the picture.

20 shots
Here are the first 4 groups of five shots each.

Group 1

The first group at the top left is above the center of the bull and measures about 0.30-inches or less between centers. I didn’t measure it with calipers, so that’s just my estimate. Remember, I’m shooting .25-caliber pellets so all these groups look larger. After shooting the group I adjusted the scope 12 clicks to the right.

Group 2

The second group is to the right of the first one. The first two pellets didn’t go all the way over, which is why this group is larger. That’s from stiction. After that the shots grouped together. This group measures 0.617-inches between centers.

Build a Custom Airgun

Group 3

Next I dialed 12 clicks of down adjustment and shot the third group. This one measures 0.406-inches between centers.

Group 4

For the fourth group I dialed in 12 clicks of left adjustment. There was a little stiction on the first two shots, then on shot three the group came over to be in line with the top group. This group measures 0.349-inches between centers.

Discussion and group 5

I took the picture shown above because I figured the first/last group would grow in size. It did for two reasons. First it grew because ten shots will almost always be larger than five shots. And second because if I pulled a shot, I might throw it wide of the main  group. In the first 20 shots there were no called pulls.

The first two shots of the fifth group didn’t enlarge the group at all. But the third shot of the final five was called high. It is the highest hole seen in the next picture. By the time I finished this group a total of 32 shots had been fired. 

25 shots
The final five shots are on top of the first five. They opened the group from an estimated 0.30-inches between centers to 0.541-inches.

Meopta reticle adjustments are precise

With some scopes you feel the clicks as the scope is adjusted. With other scopes you also hear them. With cheap scopes you may neither see nor hear anything and you have to watch an adjustment line on the scope knob relative to a scale. This Meopta scope has silent clicks that are easily felt. Pull up on the adjustment ring to unlock it and then feel as each click changes. When you are finished push that outer ring down and the adjustment is locked.

I used to get so angry at airgun shows when guys would pick up my rifles on my table and start turning the knobs just to feel the clicks! For some reason they thought that was alright. What if I jumped in the driver’s seat of their car and adjusted the seat and armrests? That probably wouldn’t be alright, would it?

Easy test?

Think today’s test is easy? Try it. It is embarrassingly difficult, and it reveals many of the hidden flaws of a scope. Remember, you have to hold perfectly for every shot. It’s like shooting a 25-shot group.

Only a quality scope will give results like you see here, and that is the reason for this test. First, does the scope adjust as you think it should? In other words, is every adjustment with the same number of clicks  moving the same distance? And with four adjustments like these will the groups be shaped like a box?

Second, does the scope return to the starting place at the end? Can you put the fifth group on top of the first group?

This test also shows the tendency for stiction. I see now that this particular scope has some stiction when adjusting left and right but not when adjusting up and down. That doesn’t mean that another of this same model scope would act the same. This is something unique to each scope and has to be evaluated by the user, or suffer the heartache of never being sure when you are zeroed.

Cheap scopes will show their colors when tested like this, but it is essential the rifle that’s used to test them is one of known accuracy. The air rifle becomes the testbed for the scope.

Bipod test will be next

I said at the end of Part Five of the Avenger Bullpup report that the next test would be shooting off a bipod, but since today’s test scope is mounted on this rifle I did this test instead. I didn’t want to test two different variables at the same time.


Before you criticize anything you see today please try this test yourself. It has been years since I did one of these, but since the Meopta MeoSport R 3-15X50 SFP scope is being tested is a top end scope I felt it needed an acid test. I can now recommend this scope to anyone who is comfortable with the 3-15 power it offers. Remember, Meopta doesn’t recommend this scope for use on a spring rifle, though I am testing another Meopta scope on my TX200.

I had fun today and I’m inspired to try this test again with another air rifle of known accuracy and another fine scope. Maybe my recently tuned TX200 MarkIII that also has a Meopta Optika5 mounted?

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

48 thoughts on “Meopta MeoSport R 3-15 SFP scope: Part Two”

  1. B.B.

    Not criticising the scope, just the reticle. It looks fine for a rimfire, but no holdover points.
    Yes, maybe the turrets are accurate enough for clickerers.
    Please convince Meopta to make a dedicated 16X FT Hunter class scope with a Christmas tree reticle.

    I thank you in advance,


    • Yogi
      Then what happens when you spendthrift extra money on thatscope and the Christmas tree still never matches your aim point to impacts of the projectile.

      My favorite scopes have been the 1/2 mildot Hawle scopes. The closer refrence marks do make a difference.

          • GF1,

            I only have two scopes that are not UTG. One is an old BSA and the other is this one.


            Would you believe that not too long ago it was only $105?

        • RR
          Yep thats what happened to the Hawke Varmint scopes in a way. They got dropped then came the Hawke Airmax scope for more money. That’s when I started buying the cheaper UTG scopes at that time. Now even the UTG scopes are getting higher in price. That’s why the last recent scope I bought was the Mantis scope. It’s ok but I would rather be buying the Hawke scopes.

          • Yeah, well I can only go down in quality a certain amount. The UTG’s are as low as I go. They are nice, rugged scopes really and the “higher end” UTG’s have some decent reticles. I wish they would go to glass etched reticles on the BugBuster’s, but that heavy reticle really helps when you are trying to quickly get on that fuzzy tailed tree rat up in the tops. I wish they would bring back the 4X and / or the 6X BugBuster. I guess I am going to have to find one of each somewhere.

        • RR
          Can only go so low. True.
          What I’m afraid will happen is I buy one of those expensive $700.00 and up scopes and it does end up being real nice, I will want more of them. Or I spend that much money on one and it’s the same or only a little better than my $100.00 scopes I have. For the shooting I do the $100.00 scopes are just fine. And plus I can by 7 of those scopes to only one of the high dollar scope.
          Who knows maybe I’ll get a high dollar scope on day.

          • GF1,

            I know it is just a me thing, but UTG scopes have been getting better over the years and Hawke scopes are awesome. Now if I was going to have only one scope, I might squeeze the budget real hard and get a Meopta. Will these old, tired eyes be able to tell the difference between the Meoptas or the Hawkes? I have my serious doubts there. I would have trouble distinguishing between the Hawkes and the upper end UTGs optically.

            Another thing is I have mostly BugBusters and Compact SWATs. Why? Where I live, one hundred yards is a long shot. There are fields and pastures here that one can stretch that out a good ways, but I grew up with a 12X Weaver as our long range scope. My Dad and I were shooting groundhogs in the head at 500+ yards with that. I do not need something more powerful. Most of the time one of those antique 4X Weavers would do just fine.

          • Decent scopes need a good home also.

            The truth is most of my airguns will not accept a scope. Scopes were a rare commodity when most of these were made. I have some scopes that are not doing anything right now. I may have to take them to an airgun show or sell them online.

        • “The truth is most of my airguns will not accept a scope.”
          Yep, I love my scopes, on the guns on which they’re appropriate; but I enjoy shooting irons, both open sights and peep sights…serious fun. 🙂

      • Hawke’s have just average scope clarity, perhaps 88% light transmission.
        Meopta scopes are in the low 90’s % light transmission.
        Haven’t you been paying attention when B.B. mentions how clear his Meopta scopes are?


        • Yogi
          I guess the thing with me I have not owned the scopebrand that BB is testing. So I can’t personally tell the difference. Right now my Hawke scopes are the clearest that I own.

      • FM be scoping for a suitable scope for Ben Max .22 – it came with a cheapie Chinese one.. Still, will mount it temporarily more to test the rifle than the scope.

          • Gunfun: It is branded as CenterPoint, by CenterPoint Precision Optics, 6X40AO – have not mounted it on the rifle yet; just took it outside for a view – the optics seem pretty clear. It may be ok for our backyard range and critter shooting distances. The rifle did not come with open sights.

        • FM
          I think what you got is called the hunter version if I remember right. They had a muzzle break and did come with a scope. And Crosman does carry the Center Point scopes. So it sounds like your. 22 Max was a Crosman combo. And I have used the Center Point scopes before. They are ok.
          I recently got a Mantis scope from PA. It’s ok too. But the Hawke and UTG scopes are what I have been using. Even out at 100+ yards. I shoot with hold over and under from refrence points on the reticle. So I like the 1/2 mildot scopes with the close dot and dash reticle. More refrence points for holds the better for me. I don’t like to guess how I have to hold between the farther apart two dots on a scope reticle that doesn’t have the half dot dash. More room for error with a farther distance on the scope reticle.

          • Going to try both – lately have been “bench resting.” Now just don’t expect Carlos Hathcock-like marksmanship out of FM! After all, he is Fawlty. 😉

        • FM,

          Although Centerpoint has greatly improved over the years and some people sing their praises, I personally would put it in the yard sale. Mount one of these on your air rifle and you will not go wrong. Period.



          I have both of them. At present the UTG is mounted on my Max.

    • I second Yogi’s proposal for a fixed 16x FT scope. I’ve looked everywhere for such a scope (needs illumination too). I would think such a design could be light weight even with great glass. Needs to differentiate +/- 2 yards at 55 yards. I like my Sightron SIII 10-50×60 with the MOA-H christmas tree reticle, but it is heavy and the reticle needs some reference numbers along the vertical dashes to simplify holdover sighting..

      This boxing procedure is fantastic! Great way to quantify scope stiction and precision issues. I look forward to trying it. And I like others’ ideas on tapping the scope and trying the over-then-back clicking. Thanks BB and eveyone!

    • Siraniko,

      I always rap my scope with my thumb a few times after each adjustment. I myself would not use a tool of any type as I may ding or scratch the scope and then I would cry. That is an ugly sight.

  2. I’m going to make a new saying today. Well maybe not, but we’ll maybe.

    Beware of the person with one scope and kows how it works/shoots.

    Not just one gun. But one scope. The more you use given equipment, the more you learn it.

      • Yogi
        I just want close together marks on the reticle. That way I might have marks that are close to where I hit for the aim point. When you have whole dots you are guessing more to try to repeat that hold over or under. If I have multiple marks it helps a little more.

  3. BB,

    I would say that scope has stiction in both the horizontal and vertical adjustments. Since you enjoyed this test so much, you should repeat it, rapping on the scope a couple of times after each adjustment.

  4. B.B. and Readership,

    Great Blog topic today B.B. and nice shooting!

    So the issue of POA/POI Shift has been around ever since sights were put on arms.
    Early on it was the projectile and propellant (NEVER the shooter) that was blamed for the poor precision/accuracy. Slowly but surely the variables (NOT the scope type) were being eliminated or at least reduced. So i wondered what an Internet Search would show about scopes. When you input this: SFP variable scope POI shift the responses are overwhelming in number! If you change but one letter in the quiry (the “S” to an “F”) the search results in NOTHING being found!!!!
    Does that surprise any of you? It shouldn’t.
    The geometry of the retical to the erector is the difference.
    Could it be that we need to switch to FIRST (FRONT) FOCAL PLANE scopes if our preference is to eliminate another variable? It won’t solve the stiction issue completely but it will virtually eliminate POI/POA issues if my search results are correct.
    Some of the other stiction problem is often referred to as LASH which tapping or twiddling the Elevation and Windage knobs past the desired number and backing into it (or the other way around) may help. The later technique has all manner of variations on how to accomplish it; so it seems to be based on personal preference instead of a mechanical/functional understanding of the erector design.

    More GRIST for the discussion,


  5. B.B.,

    When I was a pre-teenager my father and I took a rigorious 8-week night class in seamanship. We studied things as basic as “knotsmanship,” rules of seas, whipping and splicing rope, and the most basic nautical terminology. I’ll never forget the class during which we studied boxing the compass. It seemed everyone in the room was concerned about the same thing, that we would need to be able to box the compass forwards and backwards in addition to finishing it from any point on the compass! We did not have to do that, but I recall the instructor teasing us that we would be required to do so. The class did involve using a sextant, navigating by the stars, navigating with a sundial instead of a compass, making a crude compass in the wild, chart-reading and plotting courses.

    I was impressed by how much my dad knew from his time in the Coast Guard. Part of that was his philosophy of experiencing as much on the country’s dime as he could, so he served on a bouy tender, a cutter, and on an island lighthouse as well as one of the busiest lifeboat stations in the country at that time.

    If you want to impress an old-timer seaman, quickly tie a sheet bend and learn to box the compass.


    • Michael,

      The sheet bend knot is NOT a secure knot!
      I prefer a double sheet bend knot that only takes a split second longer to tie.
      Having Swung the Compass on the Compass Rose in numerous aircraft coming out of navigational systems maintenance; I prefer the 360 degree system using only the Cardinals occasionally!

      Eh Mattie!


      • shootski,

        My point was not whether a sheet bend is secure or not. My point was that not very many folks know how to tie one; therefore, quickly tying one would suggest to a sailor you know your seamanship.

        Whether or not a sheep bend (and I consider the double sheet bend to be a variant of the sheet bend) is a reliable knot, there are differing opinions, just please don’t be one of those who uses square knots — ugh. :^) There are few options to tie two ropes end-to-end. For ropes of equal thickness, especially if they are stiff, I’d prefer a Carrick Bend to a sheep bend. For ropes of unequal thicknesses, best to go with a sheep bend.

        As for a little more difficult and exotic, I could have gone with the (less often needed) constrictor or the knot Quint challenges Hooper to tie, a sheepshank. I believe I’ve had too long of a rope that needs to be shortened far fewer times than I’ve found myself with two short, different girth ropes neither of which was long enough by itself. :^)


        • Michael and Shootski
          Isn’t the whole purpose of a knot is to secure something?

          Well thats what I think when someone tells me to tie a knot.

          What about fishing knots. Those are tied to secure the hook or jig and so on. I remember when I was a young’n and that hook slipped right off the line when I finally hooked that monster fish. That is a bummer feeling. I learned after that happened once.

          To me knot tying is a art form.

          • Gunfuin1,

            It is indeed an art form! Fisherman knots are a thing unto themselves. I know a few folks who are deeply into fly-fishing and tie their own flies. They really are artists, yep.


  6. “I used to get so angry at airgun shows when guys would pick up my rifles on my table and start turning the knobs just to feel the clicks! For some reason they thought that was alright. What if I jumped in the driver’s seat of their car and adjusted the seat and armrests? That probably wouldn’t be alright, would it?”
    Dirty, no good knobdickers.

    • RG
      I use to do a lot of old car swap meets when I was younger. Alot of the people that had stuff for sale had signs that said. DON’T TOUCH UNLESS YOUR GOING TO BUY IT.

      I can respect that. But also I would put tape over that turret before I sat that gun or scope on the table for sale. Especially if I thought I was going to take that gun home if it didn’t sell and I was going to continue shooting it till it wasn’t mine anymore. And what happens if that gun and scope got dropped. Maybe that’s a automatic they bought that gun at that point.

      Some people understand that. Some just don’t know for some reason. The don’t touch thing.

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