Beeman R7.
This report covers:
- The test
- Sight-in
- Air Arms 8.44-grain domes
- Discussion 1
- RWS R10 Match Pistol pellet
- Discussion 2
- RWS Superdome
- Discussion 3
- Summary
Today we take a look at the accuracy of the Beeman R7 I recently purchased. Remember — an R7 is virtually identical to the HW 30S, and because of that I went to Part 3 of the HW 30S report to find out which pellets this rifle probably likes. This one has been tuned, but the sights and stock are factory items.
The test
Today I shot the rifle off a sandbag rest with the rifle resting directly on the bag. After sight-in I shot ten shots with each pellet. I shot at 10 meter targets while wearing my reading glasses that have +1.25 diopter correction.
Sight-in
The sight-in took seven shots. I was just looking for the groups to land somewhere inside the black bullseye.
Air Arms 8.44-grain domes
The first pellet I tested was the 8.44-grain dome from Air Arms. It was also the sight-in pellet. After ensuring that the first shot hit the bullseye I never looked at the target again until after I was finished. What I saw is a vertical group that measures 0.782-inches between centers. That’s lousy for a quality rifle like an R7, but look how vertical it is. Something could be going on
From 10 meters the Beeman R7 put 10 Air Arms 8.44-grain domes into 0.782-inches.
Discussion 1
This group is larger than I expected — much larger! And it is vertical. That generally means just one thing — the sight picture isn’t consistent. We will see as the test proceeds.
RWS R10 Match Pistol pellet
Next to be tried was the 7.0-grain RWS R10 Match Pistol wadcutter. Ten of them made a 0.677-inch group that’s just as vertical as the previous group.
The R7 put 10 RWS R10 Match Pistol pellets into a 0.677-inch group at 10 meters.
Discussion 2
The trigger on this rifle is too light for me. It often discharges before I’m ready. That’s something you don’t notice until you shoot for accuracy. I need to increase the trigger pull by quite a bit before the next test. I didn’t do that today but I’m going to before next time.
RWS Superdome
The last pellet I tried was the RWS Superdome. They did well in the HW 30S and I thought they would do so in the R7. However, if I got another vertical group I would be pretty sure it wasn’t the rifle but the sights.
This time ten Superdomes made a 0.918-inch group and once again it was vertical. I don’t think there is any doubt that the sights are causing the problem.
The R7 put ten RWS Superdomes into 0.918-inches at 10 meters. This time there were two called pulls in the five shots so that trigger definitely has to be adjusted heavier.
Discussion 3
This was an interesting test. The Beeman R7 that should have been just as accurate as the HW 30S actually is! Yep. If you compare these three groups to the three largest I shot with the 30S as it came from the box in Part 3, I got 0.608-inches, 0.739-inches and 0.994-inches and those were five-shot groups — not ten! So the two rifles perform similarly, as they should.
I have no intention of changing the tune on this R7, as it is a genius tune that I couldn’t improve if I got lucky. I am, however, willing to mount a scope — just to prove a point — the point being that when you can’t see the sights the rifle doesn’t shoot at its full potential. Once I get better sights and increase that trigger pull this one should be a shooter.
Summary
The Beeman R7 is a classic that’s still available new. How much longer we will be able to say that is unknown. This one will stay a tuned R7 as long as I have it.
Tom,
What part of the rifle’s fore end was on the sand bag? Would more light on the target have helped? Just wishing to know what could improve the sight picture for those who are forced to use only open sights.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
I rested the rifle cloe to the triggerguard. Resting out by the end of the forearm allows more movement. The targets were lit by a 750-watt photo light.
BB
I suppose you could use shooting glasses with an iris shutter for your sighting eye.
That would give you some of the advantages of a diopter (all sight elements and targets in focus) without using a diopter.
But I don’t think I’ll buy one just for this purpose…
“I am, however, willing to mount a scope — just to prove a point…”
Yes, BB; I would certainly be interested in seeing that; thank you. 🙂
Blessings to you,
dave
Wow B.B.
Your summary sounds like the grim reaper…
-Y
Guys,
I told you recently that I tuned my 30s to pretty low velocity level… Yesterday, directly when I came back home after work I replaced the tuning set to Oteva (stronger high quality mainspring). The piston seal stays same (this is custom made ZEPTO) as it saves some compression air volume and is low friction compared to original one. I came back to 660fps (H&N EconII) and approx. 7.3FTE (which is borderline much for this little lady). I’m happy – somehow I can’t follow my intention to downspeed it a few months ago. It is damn accurate and has a very quick shot cycle with some kick but it is just perfect. I really don’t know why I found 500fps range better (???).
BB,
During the tuning this time I found out that you can screw tighter the barrel again (after approx. 2k shots). I think up to certain level it does not affect the accuracy but you have to be careful about that. It might affect your groups if it is too lose.
Additional comment: this is a great powerplant to tune. It took me 45 minutes to replace the mainspring and put it all together again without hurry.
Question: I read somewhere that there are .22 cal out there. Who has it in .22 cal and can tell me about it? I have this evil thoughts again…
tomek,
when I bought the (7,5 joule) HW30S, I had the expectation that I would put in a tuning kit and tuning trigger after a while.
But the rifle is now so smooth that I’ll probably leave it as it is. Everything feels extremely crisp and precise, even the barrel lock. All I did was put a little moly grease and moly powder on the spring and then shoot the rifle.
My HW35E is the nicer rifle and just as accurate. But the HW30S is probably even more fun to shoot.
I’m really curious how the Diana 27 will feel. If the condition is as good as promised, I expect it to be very good, but beating the HW30S is going to be quite hard. We’ll see 🙂
Stephan
Stephan,
To be honest I refused to join the “30s club” for so long – I thought too expensive for so small machinery, it can’t be so good etc. Damn, it is good and I don’t think it can be just beaten – it might be enhanced or something. The comparison where someone says “this is 1 class better than the 30s” just can’t be generated.
General comment on the HW mainspring quality: it is known that there are hops and downs regarding the mainspring quality of Weihrauch in general (not only 30s). Some years ago there was a big discussion on one blog with guys who are professional tuners. They said it is a kind of lottery – so once found the mainspring are OK they bought more of them to avoid surprises.
The 30s I tuned several times. For a relative long time I left the F-spring (7,5J) working with new piston seal and spring guide. What a surprise yesterday – I put it out and it was bended at the very beginning (in the piston) and in the middle! It was weak but smooth and I would never expected the mainspring to look like this. It is a proof for a poor quality, unfortunately. I even purchase the export mainspring (original) to install it but after this picture I decided to put the Oteva inside (it holds V0 really). The Oteva I left for 5 days cocked to weaken it – nothing happend. 5 days did nothing to this mainspring and it has 203m/s on the H&N EconII again, as it had already after 5 days beeing squeezed.
The Oteva is very similar size (28 coils) to original export mainspring, the difference is that it is 3cm shorter. I think this big pre-tension will get lost fast out of the original one anyway. And the Oteva seems to be just resistant to anything.
Years ago my HW50 was tuned and it still has the same mainspring, shot about 40k times – still at the 10FPE level as it was at the begining! Original mainspring. So there is some lottery there ;(
tomek
I don’t know about the .22 cal, but I do have a .20 cal R7. I don’t think it’s rare, but probably uncommon.
It exhibits the same too light trigger pull that BB’s R7 has. I adjusted it, but it is still a little too light. I’ll have to dig it out and tinker with it.
Slinging Lead,
.20 cal is really something uncommon 🙂 It may make even sense! 🙂 What about pellets? No issue with that?
I thought the trigger is same construction 30s / R7? Both have record, right? I set the trigger really light, but it is so predictable that the 30s is just… I don’t know how to describe this phenomenon.
tomek
No issues with pellets, H&N and JSBs are both available in .20 caliber. I also still have some of the old Crosman premiers that came in a cardboard box on hand. They shoot surprisingly well in that gun.
It does have the Rekord trigger, and I know how to adjust it, but I just can’t get it quite right. Maybe I’ll work on it this weekend. Cheers.
“Sweet”
I cannot say anything about the R7 as I have no experience with it, however I do have an older HW30S here that is an awesome shooter. I bought it used, but it was so well cared for that it looks new.
I ended up installing a Truglo hooded front sight, yes a glowy thingy sight and a Williams peep sight on it. What a close-range, quick shooter! Of all people, even I can find a use for those glowy thingy sights.
I was having a bit of trouble with my “new” Diana 34. I could see the sights just fine, but the bottom of the targets would seem to disappear. I also had vertical groups. I was using NRA 10 Meter Air Rifle Targets at 10 yards.
B.B. is this a test to see if we can remotely diagnose your accurracy issues?
Step 1: check that stock screws are tight.
Step 2: check for any barrel movement, tighten pivot screws.
Step 3: check for any play or looseness in the rear sight.
Step 4: install a post front sight insert (if possible) because the tapered or pointed front sight are less precise against a bullseye, and install a aperture rear sight.
Step 4 (alternate): scope it.
My R7s like to be balanced on the sand bag. I move them forward or back until they line up on target and they stay there if I let them go. Then I touch them off with minimal interference from me.
Roamin,
Step one — did it. All tight.
Step 2. Did it. None.
Step 3. Did it. None
Step 4, The front sight is a square post.
Step 4 (alternate). That’s the plan.
BB
BB,
quite a coincidence… we are trying to do the same thing with (almost) the same model rifle 🙂
I noticed again that shooting for ultimate accuracy with open sights is *hard* – and I’m 42, don’t need glasses (yet) and never had eye surgery.
I normally use the narrow notch on the rear sight and the narrow post on the front. I then switched to the V notch and the tapered front sight which *might* have made it a little easier but maybe it was just my imagination. I think what made the most difference was switching to a “6 o’clock” hold.
Stephan
Tom I am disappointed that she’s not shooting better for you. I know you will get it sorted. I was so thrilled to send that one to you…… Because of the state of tune. I was physically in better shape that one harvested quite a few Chipmunks. I am definitely a scope guy
That ironically uses the iron sights to troubleshoot scope issues. I guess the shoes on the other foot this time.
Frank,
No problemo. It’s just one more thing to talk about. 😉
BB
BB
Either a peep or a scope will solve the vertical stringing. Having accomplished that, this rifle if like my HW30S, may shine the most when balanced or slightly muzzle heavy on a narrow bag. Before you adjust the trigger I hope you will try pinching the trigger between your trigger finger and thumb placed behind trigger guard. On a shaky fingers day I will use the left hand fingers also behind the right hand thumb. I don’t touch the rifle anywhere except the trigger and trigger guard. Yeah, it’s not a hold sensitive rifle but what is the absolute best she can do?
I know this is not the way a hunter or offhand shooter is interested in shooting. It is only a quest for getting the smallest group.
Deck
Deck,
I’ll think about it, but that trigger is downright dangerous in my hands. I really want to bump it up over 1.5 pounds.
BB
B.B.,
As much as we want to remain forever young stuff happens to all of us as we advance in years on the good Earth.
You know i look for ways to do it more gracefully: https://www.physio-pedia.com/Effects_of_Ageing_on_Hand_Function
It covers the why but also offers some ways to keep the decline to as little as possible.
Light triggers are all well and good but not when the shot CONTROL certainty is lowered.
Be well!
shootski
BB
Fair enough but after adjusting trigger and overcoming the vertical stringing I hope you will at least try the bag type and placement.
Deck
Tom
Both of my R7s like the Exact RS pellets . If you have any, give them a try .
tt
Mine too. It also likes HN Econ II pellets for some strange reason.
Roamin,
This is one underestimated pellet. Econ II is only a little bit worse than some very expensive match grade pellets in my FWB300s tested on the bench (for my training more than fully enough), it is good in many springers and CO2 pistols, HW30s does like it – it is a very universal pellet which is not expensive. I never had some “bad pellets” in the 500 can, did not see big variation over time (I buy usually 10-plus one- pack and some time later again – it takes usually few weeks up to 3 months in between). It is one of my favorite 10m or plinking pellets.
BTW – what is going on with good old mosquito pellet? The new one (red labeled) is an disaster.
Tomok, while some folks try to find the ONE, “MAGIC” pellet for their airguns, I also try to find the best “value” pellet. It’s a happy day when the best pellet is also among the cheapest. My Beeman R7 (HW30S) loves Meisterkugelns, but H&N Econ II pellets are a VERY close second! One Crosman Mark II that I resealed and gave away as a Christmas present was amazingly accurate with H&N Plinking pellets! Nothing else in my inventory came close.
I am not familiar with “Mosquito” pellets.
I think it all depends on what purpose – if I shot again the 10m series to improve skill I do not have to use the H&N final match pellets. I will shot warm up and than 60 shots at once – lets say 100 shots not for a competition. The consistency of the EconII is very good, better than I can hold anyway. As long my mistakes and resulting groups is bigger in comparison to bench results at least one class I’m fine with it. To be precise: I shot 10 shot groups each pellet I use for 10m and found out that match class H&N is really something superb. The EconII was grouping in a circle which was like 3mm – 4mm bigger. It is fine for me as I’m not able to hold a circle like group without any outsiders so far constantly. I have to calculate over a month, or better over one year what I’m doing 🙂 – to shot the class1 pellet 10m all the time would be really expensive in my case.
If I would shot at 50yards I would use something more appropriate of course, but plinking in the garden at 15 – 25 yards just for fun? Why waste JSB for that?
The Mosquito was Umarex rifled pellet, very good quality, even less expensive. A very consistent pellet which gave me the highes V0 in this weight. It is now different, I was able to buy the last few cans of the old one… It was also available in .22 with only 0,83gram mass, good for weak springers for plinking and target shooting. However it was not better for FWB300s compared to EconII. This is example how to destroy something which was working fine and was cheap. It is sad.
TT,
Well, well — Long time no hear from. I will try JSB Exact RS next time.
BB
Hi BB,
I haven’t piped up in ages, but I had question bugging me. Maybe I’m missing something. Airgun history showcases some impressive, powerful, large bore, probably hand-made “PCP’s” built in previous era’s, like the Girondoni rifles, pistols, etc. Everyone on the blog is familiar with the story of Lewis & Clark’s rifle. The question is: what kept manufacturers from building off of those early designs. With the technology and advances, it would seem very simple to deconstruct a crude design and modernize it. But that doesn’t appear to have ever happened. There was a Dark Ages of large bore development. I’m thinking it had to do with the practicality of firearms that the large bore airguns disappeared. Like trains in the advent of the automobile. Obviously, the newer large bore PCP’s are state of the art impressive – but relatively recent. I’m just curious why all that was seemingly abandoned for so long. Those spotlight antique airguns that you occasionally see are stunning.
WesternPA,
Howdy to you, too.
I reckon the world of firearms was changing in such exciting ways at the same time (cartridges, repeaters, etc.) that airguns were shunted to the side. Today firearms have peaked and the best they can do is figure what to call a “new” 6.8 mm or how to adapt an AR platform to another cartridge. All the while airguns are hitting targets at ranges beyond a mile.
BB
WesternPa,
what a beautiful Giffard pistol !
What’s the story with that one please?
I just saw it on Jimmy Dee’s website with a lot of classics. I thought it was beautiful, so I saved the pick and it was a decent illustration for my topic (off topic). Love all the styling (grip, trigger guard), probably why the LeMat revolver is one of my dream guns. Can’t see why a manufacturer never thought to make a cartridge reproduction…
WesternPA,
thanks.
Although Jimmy Dee’s airgun website appears to no longer host that picture , I found it on ‘forum.vintageairgunsgallery’, about half way down the rather long page, under the title “Giffard CO2 Match Pistol – Custom Carbine Conversion.” posted by user ‘Garvin’ in 2017. 🙂
( https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/giffard/giffard-co2-pistol/ )
I read that some people succeeded in converting their Giffard into a precharged pneumatic airgun, by using a specially made air cylinder with appropriate valve. And when I noticed a non standard cylinder on that pictured pistol, I wondered if this might have been an example of a converted CO₂ pistol. 🙂
Anyway, I too lament the loss of the vintage style in almost all modern airguns.
Apologies for the misdirected website. I’ve been seeing posts from Jimmy Dee’s site in other airgun blogs and the photos often make their way to Pinterest. i think i searched custom and antique airguns. I think the question I have always had (not that velocity is the biggest factor to me) but how powerful were these big bore rifles and pistols? Ive seen a video of a guy who had his Girondoni rifle restored and proceeded to shoot it. Looked very powerful, but i don’t think he ran it through a chronograph. Just tore apart a wood post.
WesternPA,
interesting take on an airgun’s performance, ie power over projectile speed. 🙂
For me, how fast anything exits a barrel is kinda useless information, ie the chronograph measurements, typically taken close to the muzzle, don’t tell me how hard a projectile whacks it’s target at a given distance. Oddly, these measurements nobody seems to care about.
I would bet folks trying to set up a chronograph at various distances and then shooting said chronographs is what keeps chronograph manufacturers in business. Enter LabRadar. For about $700 to $800 (or more with accessories) last time I checked, you may be able to trace the projectiles all the way to the target.
Just wait a moment…I sense shootski is about to chime in.
Roamin Greco,
hmm, I’m not holding my breath on that one. 🙂
You see, unlike yourself and our host Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier) of course, I suspect not many readers are notified of new comments.
Remember you trying to help me with that? I failed and, because I don’t understand that stuff, I quickly gave up.
Maybe I’m not the only one who refreshes the current day’s blog page to see if the comments number has increased, in which case, I then re-read all the comments to see the new ones. That’s tiring enough not to bother with the previous days’. I sometimes wonder if people in charge are blissfully unaware.
Happily, I receive notification emails to comments in response to mine. For example, yours. 🙂
———
I agree about the labradar chronograph being one tool with which to measure projectile energy at the target. Another would be a regular chronograph at the target and behind something protective like a brick.
By the way, I happen to know that one shot in the display of a ‘Chrony’, is all it takes to render it useless and have the shooter hate himself. 🙂
Here’s the thing:
I don’t need a chronograph to find out what my pellets do to my targets, ie I can see how close I have to plink, for them to achieve the desired reaction.
For me, the value of energy measurements at target, would be in knowing how an airgun that I do not have access to, would perform in my plinking range, ie to be able to compare, I need those measurements from others. 🙂
Hihihi,
“I don’t need a chronograph to find out what my pellets do to my targets, ie I can see how close I have to plink, for them to achieve the desired reaction”
So if the reaction at a distance was reported, would that be enough information?
May your chrony rest in peace.
You should look into something called RSS feed reader. I use an app called “Feedly” and it shows all the comments in chronological order. It also has a way to jump to the comment in the actual web page so you can then see pics. That saves you from having to reread the blog 20 times per day.
Roamin Greco,
thanks. And yes, those RSS Feedlys – I remember them not wanting to play with me.
What, try again? Where’s that comforting hole in the sand for my head, la-la la-la la-la… 🙂
———
As for “…the reaction at a distance…”, well that would actually be a step in the right direction, ie give a picture of the knock-down power. 🙂
However, when one imagines a metal spinner target that’s stiff because it’s a bit bent, a de-labelled metal can of unknown thickness and material, etc and then wonders how a particular airgun would interact with it… remember Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)’s surprise when he shot at ballistic gel, ie he “…had no idea that such a small increase in velocity would have such a dramatic affect on the pellet’s penetration.” ( https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2023/07/shooting-mr-jelly-chuck-part-one/ )?
Better to exclude the target’s qualities and try to quantify the energy of the projectile itself at point of impact, don’t you think? 🙂
Here is a screen shot
I like the brick idea, but I would use impact putty / duct seal instead. I might have to try that….
Roamin Greco,
ah yes, although at first I thought, how unnecessarily elaborate to protect the chronograph, but then the penny dropped: this would reduce ricochets, like from ball bearing shooters – I like your thinking! 🙂
hihihi,
Bricks don’t work!
Ask me how i know…
Chronographs are good for knowing when your guns have a problem; sometimes before it even is noticeable to us while shooting.
shootski
shootski,
well well, welcome. 🙂
Erm, ok, how do you know bricks don’t work?
I use them because they’re readily available near my shooting range. Lumps of wood litter the place too but they make collecting spent lead more difficult. 🙂
When I receive a new to me airgun, I might shoot over my chronograph and thereafter very rarely indeed. How often do you use yours?
Roamin Greco,
I sensed a disturbance in the Force.
I was busy with the Dark Side; had my 1st generation Benjamin Marauder out on a very wind and gusty day. Things were looking good until about shot 150 and three fills when the O-Ring failed on the fill Foster fitting.
Yes Chronographs and even bricks die when placed down range and especially when they are hit by 350 to 500+ grain projectiles traveling just under Transonic speeds.
LabRadars are paid for relatively quicky if one continues to repeat this insane endeavor of trying to calculate Coefficient of Drag with optical Chronographs.
The improved data quality and quantity really is worth the cost if you do tunes on PCPs and even Springers.
I was just about to start work with the new selection of pellets in the Marauder. Pellets definitely have improved compared to one decade ago is what my targets were telling me.
Now i’m going to do a reseal and maybe install the upgraded 2nd Generation valve.
Also, I much prefer the LONG trigger on the 1st Generation Marauder.
shootski
WesternPA,
I would like to see someone try the magazine fill system from a Girondoni on a modern big bore. Two guns that I can think of that used similar concepts were the Crosman 600 and the El Gamo models with the tubular magazine over the barrel on models such as the Survival model and the model 68.
David Enoch
Good point. I’ve questioned that a lot. It’s weird that most of our “semi-auto air arms” are essentially revolvers. They work well, in a variety of different guns, so production goes in their favor. You would have to be an insider to know if they are cheaper to manufacture. Given all the breakthroughs in airgun tech in recent years, i can see different magazines eventually coming into their own. I like the idea of a tubular magazine.
BB,
I have the Beeman SS1 that I bought from you on my pre-safety R7. The SS scopes are my version of aperture sights that just don’t work well for me.
Thanks,
David Enoch
My R7 – albeit a pretty ancient one! – was utterly transfromed by lighter JSB pellets. The JSB-made Air Arms Falcon is its fave, closely followed by the Exact 7.3’s and 7.9’s. The old girl shoots well with most ammo, but is a near-recoilless laser gun with Falcons.
Hope you will give those a run in this little beauty!