Umarex Fusion CO2 rifle: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier

Part 1


Umarex Fusion rifle

Umarex Fusion CO2 rifle

Today, we test the Umarex Fusion CO2 rifle for velocity and several other things you readers are interested in. You may remember that in the first part I had a problem with the rifle not sealing when I loaded the CO2 cartridges. Blog reader mikeiniowa nailed the problem with the Fusion CO2 cap. The part that contains the piercing pin was partially unscrewed and was, therefore, longer than it should be. It was piercing the cartridges before the o-ring was in position to seal the gun. So, a lot of gas leaked out; and, because the o-ring absorbs CO2 and swells when it does, it also prevented the cap from being screwed down tight.

Fusion CO2 cap
In the top photo, the Fusion cap is unscrewed almost all the way. On the bottom is the cap properly together.

I’m going to show that cap in detail in a later report. It’s made so complex because of the material the o-ring is made from. If a different material had been used, none of the complex parts would be needed…and the cap could be made for less cost.

So, with the cap assembled correctly, I was able to load 2 fresh CO2 cartridges. This time, everything worked as it should, and the velocity test began.

JSB Exact RS
The first pellet I tried was the 7.3-grain JSB Exact RS. This lightweight dome is a winner in many lower-powered air rifles, and I believe the Fusion will be one of them. The first shots started slow, at 619, 647 and 644 f.p.s. Then, the velocity jumped up to 663 and remained above that number for the remainder of the string. The average, once the velocity was in the curve, was 667 f.p.s.  That means the Fusion’s valve needs to be awakened after installing fresh cartridges.

The low velocity, once the pellet had climbed into the stable spread, was 663 f.p.s., and the high was 673 f.p.s. At the average velocity, the RS pellet produced 7.21 foot-pounds of muzzle energy. Because the Fusion is a gas gun, we can expect the power to increase and decrease with the pellet weight.

I tested the same pellet several hours later, and the first JSB RS out the spout went 686 f.p.s., so the velocity had increased by 20 f.p.s. after 40 shots had been fired and the gun then rested for 3 hours. But that was also the end of the power curve. By shot 50, the velocity of all the pellets started to drop again.

RWS Hobby
The second pellet I tried was the 7-grain RWS Hobby wadcutter. They averaged 669 f.p.s. with a spread from 661 to 681 f.p.s. At the average velocity, this pellet generated 6.96 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle. Lighter pellet, less energy.

Crosman SSP hollowpoints
The third pellet I tested was the Crosman SSP hollowpoint. Remember, Umarex lists the velocity of the Fusion at 750 f.p.s. with lead-free pellets (which they call alloy) and 700 f.p.s. with lead pellets. I should have tested the rifle with RWS HyperMAX since those are the ones Umarex imports and distributes, but I didn’t have any on hand. Anyway, the Crosman pellets worked fine. They gave an average 766 f.p.s. velocity, with a low of 757 and a high of 783 f.p.s. At the average velocity, this 4-grain pellet produced 5.21 foot-pounds of muzzle energy, so it’s staying on track for the pellet-weight-to-velocity relationship.

After 50 shots had been fired, the average velocity for this pellet fell to 711 f.p.s. So, the velocity is going down, but the velocity is still useable up to 60 shots.

H&H Baracuda
The last pellet I tried was the 10.6-grain H&N Baracuda Match. In a spring gun, the velocity for this pellet would fall off quite a bit from the numbers for these lightweight pellets, but gas guns and pneumatics are different. Heavy pellets don’t lose nearly as much velocity as they do in spring guns. The average for Baracudas was 612 f.p.s. The range went from 600 to 616 f.p.s. At the average velocity, the Baracuda produced 8.82 foot-pounds, which is significantly higher than any other pellet.

One of our readers mentioned that the total number of good shots he gets is about 70 shots with each set of CO2 cartridges. I was looking for about that number. I noticed the velocity began dropping at shot 50. But there were still 10 more good shots in the gun. From shots 56 through 60, the velocity for the baseline JSB Exact RS pellets was 622, 614, 603, 602, and 584 f.p.s. While there were still more shots to be fired, I felt that accuracy would probably drop off at this point. So, I’ll rate the Fusion I’m testing as a 60-shot gun.

Noise?
And, now, we come to the question on everyone’s mind. Is the Fusion quiet? Umarex not only says that it is, they tout the low sound level heavily in their advertising campaigns. While I don’t have any scientific sound measurement equipment to test with, I can make a fairly good subjective observation of the gun’s report. I compared it to my Diana model 23, which most of you readers know to be a very small, low-powered spring-piston youth model air gun. The Fusion and the Diana 23 are approximately the same loudness. That means that the Fusion is a very quiet air rifle.

Blog reader Matt61 wondered if it would be louder than a ballpoint pen falling on a thick carpet, and I must say that it is. But it isn’t much louder. I think this is a gun you could shoot in an apartment that has thin walls separating you from the neighbors. You should be able to shoot in even small backyards without disturbing the neighborhood.

Trigger
I told you the trigger is 2-stage. Stage 1 is light and relatively short. Stage 2 is also light but long and creepy. The sear releases at around 3 lbs., 12 oz.

What’s left?
Besides the accuracy test, which is expected, I also want to take the gun out of its stock and look for both the power adjuster and the trigger adjustment that reader mikeiniowa mentioned. I’ll use that report to also show you the details of the CO2 cap and explain how it works so you understand what’s going on.

Given the power level of the Fusion, I think I’ll start testing accuracy at 10 meters and then back up to 25 yards. If the rifle comes through the accuracy portion with honors, I’ll give it a hearty recommendation.

78 Responses to “Umarex Fusion CO2 rifle: Part 2”

  • Greg Says:

    To me it seemed like the lawyers had as much input on this gun as the engineers? With it’s insane Co2 bleed off screw and it’s automatic safety. I hate automatic safety’s, But don’t get me wrong! I’m liking everything else about this one! This blog came out the same day I got the fusion and the octane. So when I read about potential Co2 problems I’d finish reading the blog and had watched a video on YouTube before I played with it. Out of the box that piercing piece on my valve assembly was turned out also but not as far as B.B’s not knowing at the time what it did I just tighnted it? Since reading partII of this blog and re-reading mikeiniowa’s comments I fully understand now. But that bleed relief screw? Why would you have to back something out to keep the pressure in? I can’t wait for part III. As the video I seen had shown I backed it out about five turns and once it pierced the Co2 cartridges I had to turn it out a few more times to keep it from leaking. I’ve shot it off and on the past few days and it’s still holding it’s pressure just fine. Thanks everyone for all of your input!

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      Greg,

      You have decided it for me. Part 3 will address the things I mention at the end of this report. Then Part 4 will be the accuracy test.

      The things you did to make your gun work were the right things to do. Yes, the separate threaded cap ring is a pain, but with the swelling o-ring it is a necessity. I will address that in Part 3.

      I don’t think most readers have any clue what we are talking about, because until you experience this, it’s difficult to comprehend. Fortunately I have been through most of it before. The gas relief feature in the cap is new and it actually helps you operate the gun, but its purpose must be explained, and the manual doesn’t do it.

      Thanks,

      B.B.

    • Feinwerk Says:

      It sounds like the nose of the bleed screw pushes on a small valve that provides a controlled bleed of the gas when you screw it in (CW).

  • Greg Says:

    A couple of things I did on the Fusion before loading the Co2 cartridges for the first time, And before the answers started pouring in. I took two spent and already pierced cartridges and installed them to see if the seal on the valve assembly would fit entirely in the tube with Crosman cartridges. I had heard that some Umarex guns don’t like Crosman because the neck sizes and lengths vary slightly? That may have been a marketing thing? So I had new Walther Co2 cartridges on standby. The round nut that tightens the valve assembly to the tube has very fine threads and could be very easy to cross thread. It comes completely free of the valve so I took that alone without the valve and ran it up and down a few times to break it in. With the valve it’s hard to get started. Since that round nut floats until it hits the treads with light pressure I pushed the valve assembly with the o-ring down into the tube to see the o-ring go into the tube and the valve assembly seat straight and then I’ll put the nut over it and tighten. Another thing is I see no seals at either piercing point so that o-ring does all of the sealing. I still used the pellgun oil on both cartridges and around the valve o-ring. Sorry for being so long winded on such minute details but hopefully it will help others as all your inputs helped me.

  • Pop’s SLR Says:

    Hello all. Thanks for the great blog. I so enjoy reading here.

    B.B. you words about the directly proportionate relationship between pellet weight and FPE reminded me of your attempts to shoot solid lead bullets in PCP airguns. I remember that the rifling caused some issues with loading them into the breach. I was wondering if they might load better into a smooth twist barrel as the “rifling” would be near the crown.

    Thanks for taking the time to share this interesting rifle. Seems like a great truck gun for starling country. If it will hold a .5 inch group at 25”, i may be sold.

    • RidgeRunner Says:

      Many guys who shoot bullets have a lead in machined into the breach end of the barrel to allow easy loading of the solid projectiles.

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      Pop,

      I think you mean a half-inch group at 25 yards, not inches. Right? I ask because you may have meant feet instead of inches.

      B.B.

      • BG_Farmer Says:

        C’mon, BB, even I can shoot 1/2″ 10 shot groups at 25 inches :)! It could be handy to know how it performs at that range, so that one could rig up a small portable range in his microbus camper on road trips, for example…

        • Fred DPRoNJ Says:

          or for nailing that spider or stink bug crawling on your ceiling in the bedroom while the wifey is yelling for you to kill it.

          Fred DPRoNJ.

          • Matt61 Says:

            Is the wifey okay with you shooting holes in the ceiling?

            Matt61

            • Fred DPRoNJ Says:

              Another fine use for my Discovery. No holes in the ceiling, no smudges on the nice, flat white paint job. Plus, I get a tremendous rise out of the wifey and daughter who are yelling at me not to shoot as they can never find the parts. He, he, he.

              Fred DPRoNJ

      • Pop’s slr Says:

        Indeed! Oh the difficulty of communication! Yards sir, yards. I picked up a new landscaping job, on top of my sleep lab position and my faculties have yet to adjust. Sorry to make you cipher.

  • Gunfun1 Says:

    BB
    Above you said you shot the JSB Exact RS at a average fps of 667.

    And when you shot them again several hours later you said the pellet went 686 fps. Was it by chance warmer outside when you shot those pellets the second time around?

    Maybe that would be why the fps was different.

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      GF1,

      No. I did all of this testing inside my office, where the temperature is a constant 70 degrees. The rise in velocity is common near the end of a CO2 charge, though not universal.

      B.B.

      • Gunfun1 Says:

        BB
        I was wondering where you were doing the chrony tests at. And now I also understand about the rise in velocity. I didn’t have it in my mind that you were still on the same cartridges. So yep that makes sense now.

        And how come you don’t have part 1 and 2 linked together this time?

  • goatboy Says:

    Sounds like just the rifle i need to get those rats that keep raiding the chicken feed, as i long as i use Barracuda’s or Crosman Premier Heavies. You see the neighbours phone the police even when i’m putting my rifles over the chrono in my shed, though i’ve found a way around that one by switching on some loud power tools while testing. It’s not the end of the world as the local land owner lets me o shooting on his many acres of land, which is a two minute walk from my humble abode.

    I bet it won’t be long before there are mods out to boost the power up on this co2 gun, just as there is with all the others. Apart from the 1077 which for some annoying reason you can only buy in smooth bore in the UK, though it’s still pretty accurate at 10 yards as most smooth bores seem to be.

    TTFN

    Best wishes, Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe

  • FrankBpc Says:

    I hope for all that this one shines in the accuracy department.Looks like a great platform for bulk fill with an aftermarket cap too!

    • Gunfun1 Says:

      FrankBpc
      Now there’s a idea. And I’m going to go one step farther.

      How about turn it into a low pressure PCP gun. I wonder if that would work also?

      • Greg Says:

        I wondered about that also? I don’t know anything about pcp, green gas, propane or bulk fill but you’d think an adapter of some sort could make this happen. That would be nice.

        • Gunfun1 Says:

          Greg
          You were talking above about the valve how it seemed to work backwards to you.

          The comment that you made about the Fusion valve and what FrankBpc said about bulk fill CO2 made me think of what I said about the low pressure PCP conversion.

          If you look at the end of the Mrods and other PCP guns from Benjamin/Crosman were you fill the gun with compressed air or CO2. The male Foster fitting screws into the air reservoir fitting that contains the valve that keeps the pressure in the reservoir.

          It is a reverse seal valve if you have ever seen a diagram or had one taken a part to clean it. It’s a very simple valve. When the air goes in it pushes it open away from the seat. When the pressure is relieved from the air fill source the compressed air in the reservoir pushes the plunger with the seal against the seat.

          I may be over looking something but I think the Fusion would be a great conversion to bulk CO2 or a low pressure PCP with not to much work.

          That would be something the aftermarket guys could pick up some business on. I forgot what the Fusion sells for but I don’t think it was as much as a Mrod or Disco.

          Sounds very interesting to me. :)

          • FrankBpc Says:

            Gunfun,at this point to be responsible we HAVE to point out that safety is a HUGE issue here! While Co2 guns can theoretically operate on high pressure air as designed…….they are only designed to be safe in Co2′s expected pressure range of around 1200 psi.That also applies to the valve & striker function.Just installing a check valve at the inlet WILL allow bulk Co2 filling,but substitute HPA and many things can go wrong including valve lock……or catastrophic failure and serious injury.There is plenty on the subject elsewhere on the Web,but suffice it to say it is not as simple as adding a fill fitting!

            • J-F Says:

              Just put a regulator on your HPA bottle like the paintball guys do. They have a 4500psi reservoir but regulate it to CO2 levels.
              Or you could put a lower pressure inside that “reservoir” like they do with the Hi-Pac on the 2240.

              J-F

            • Gunfun1 Says:

              FrankBpc
              I understand all of that. And yes safety should always be the first thought when trying something. And thought of design needs to be looked at obviously before you attempt something.

              But back to the thought you had and I had. If you read back through my comment I said (Low Pressure compressed air). If that gun could be converted to bulk fill CO2 or Low Pressure compressed air you wouldn’t run the gun at 3000 or even 2000 psi compressed air.
              The Discovery only runs on 1000 psi when you fill it with CO2. So I think if you would use the lower pressure (maybe 700 or 800 psi and down) compressed air fill pressure there would be a good possibility it could work.

              And then think on different terms. What if Crosman or any other company designed a gun with the valves and pressure reservoirs to accept lower pressure compressed air. The next question would be how many shots would you get (of course depending on the reservoir size) and at what FPS would the gun be able to shoot at.
              Look at what BB accomplished with the Disco. That was my first PCP gun I got and just recently got another one. I bet they would sell a bunch of guns if they designed a low pressure compressed air PCP gun and made it available at a lower cost.

              I think that the valves in the CO2 cartridge guns would be pretty compatible with low pressure compressed air. I know my Disco will still shoot a pellet down at 700 psi of (Compressed Air). So who knows. Maybe somebody out there smarter than me might know better than me if it could be or couldn’t be done.
              Oh and no argument just a interesting subject to me.

        • Wulfraed Says:

          Isn’t current “green gas” basically propane with some sort of lubricant in solution?

          {Hmm, probably not advisable to use a gas AirSoft near a water heater pilot light unless the area has very good ventilation}

          • Gunfun1 Says:

            Wulfraed
            I think green gas is actually air condition refrigerant. I may be wrong though.

            • Wulfraed Says:

              The one container with any details says: LPG propellant and polydimethylsiloxane. The latter, I suspect is a silicone lubricant (the other container I have only mentions a silicone oil).

              According to Wikipedia, LPG is mainly a mixture of propane and butane (ratio depending on expected ambient temperature — butane doesn’t vaporize at temps around the freezing point of water, so more propane would be in a “winter” mix for heating). LPG is also supposed to be replacing the various Freon mixes for cooling systems.

  • twotalon Says:

    B.B.

    Glad you have the leak problem figured out. Now let’s see it shoot.

    twotalon

  • Vasili Says:

    Dear BB,

    First, thanks again for your excellent contributions to our knowledge about airguns and related topics. Though I seldom comment here, I enjoy reading the blog every morning.

    I would like to ask something that, in a sense, you may have already answered: with this CO2 rifle the direct relation between pellet weight and energy seems quite dramatic to me; do you believe that one could expect a very similar behavior with another .177 CO2 rifle like the Crosman 1077? I know that the way both rifles handle pellets (bolt vs rotary magazine with gas through it) are very different, but would this have any relevance?

    During the next weekend I want to make a little testing. As I do not have a chronograph, I would try the following: I will shoot three kinds of domed pellets (alloy 4.7 gr, lead 7.9 gr and lead 10.6 gr) with two very different low powered rifles, a Baikal IZH 38 (or MP 512) and a Crosman 1077, into neutrogena soap bars (your idea, of course!). As a zeroth order approximation I would relate (relative) penetration with (relative) energy. I expect to find opposite results with both rifles. Do you agree?

    Thank you for your attention!

    “Vasili”

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      Vasili,

      The 1077 should also have this same power/pellet weight relationship, but as you point out, the striker in the 1077 isn’t cocked by hand. It is cocked by pulling the trigger. So the power gain might be less with the 1077.

      I think your soap test should show you the relationship, although at this power level it may be so close that it’s hard tom discern. Please let us know how it turns out.

      And welcome to the blog.

      B.B.

      • Vasili Says:

        Dear BB,

        Thank you very much for your answer.

        As soon as I carry out my “experiment” I will comment the result in the blog. I will take into account what you say, so I will avoid energy loss by putting the target close (but not too much, to avoid the influence of air/CO2 entering the soap), and avoid too low temperatures (which would result in a very hard soap bar). I will try to repeat each “measurement” (each combination of pellet weight and rifle) at least four or five times and take an average; this should help to discern little differences.

        Vasili

        • /Dave Says:

          Vasili,

          Should be a good experiment, but I wonder what your wife/girlfriend will say when she finds all of her Nutrigena bars shot up…

          /Dave

          • Vasili Says:

            Dave,

            Do not worry, she has already forgiven me for a hole in the shower curtain and even for ruining a tile in the bathroom wall behind my pellet trap… She was visiting her mother, no danger for her!

            Regards,

            “Vasili”

            • /Dave Says:

              Duct seal is another alternative. It’s not clear like Nutrigena, but you can take measurements from the surface to inside of the pellet skirt, or just cut it open. Modeling clay works too, plus its softer and might give you a more visible difference in penetration on close velocity spreads. Then she doesn’t need to forgive you for shooting up her soap….

            • J-F Says:

              WOW, she’s a keeper!

              J-F

  • /Dave Says:

    OT… Soapbox warning…

    The more I look at .22lr ammo availability and prices, the more I appreciate my airguns. I come from the $8/500 rd brick is too expensive era. When I see normal plinking 22 ammo for $60-160/brick, I just want to puke. It seems insane that I can reload reduced velocity or sub-sonic FN 5.7x28mm match grade ammo for almost the same price per round as .22lr! What on earth has gotten into people?? Someone is paying these ridiculous prices for it to be selling! They’re supporting these rip-off artists! Who are these yo-yo’s?? Wal-Mart has good prices, but good luck catching the truck! I still have a few bricks left, but those are mostly in my bug-out kit. Airguns seem to be the only affordable way to work on technique left for the average guy!

    /Dave

    • Gunfun1 Says:

      /Dave
      I think part of what may have drove the cost of the .22 rim fire up. Is at first they were a cheap round like what you were talking about. (the 8 dollar era).
      Then people started converting their guns over to the 22 because it was cheap. So I’m sure somebody in the ammo sales department caught on to it.

      I use to think the .17HMR round was a neat little round but maybe a little high priced. But now like you said the 22 round is catching up in the cost department.
      Kind of reminds me of the gas shortage price wars of the 70′s and through out time.
      I hope the ammo prices will fall. But who knows now days.

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      /Dave,

      Now you understand why I reload. I still smile when I hear two “riflemen” talking about what ammo they are able to buy and where. They have to conform to what is available. I can have anything I want. And components are available if you know where to look.

      B.B.

      • /Dave Says:

        Same here…. Just venting. I don’t have the machinery to make rimfire ammo or is be a rich man now!

        • /Dave Says:

          …I’d….

          • cowboystar dad Says:

            It’s weird what’s going on ‘down there’.
            I just picked up a brick of Blazer at my local dealer…$21/500.
            Twenty or thirty bricks on the shelf and just as many of anything else, all similarly priced.
            No limits per customer and pretty much the same at all outlets (I’m from Canada).
            No real shortages of anything, although .223 and 9mm were a bit spotty in the late spring, but not anymore.
            I really feel for you guys Stateside.

            • J-F Says:

              Makes you ponder how hard it would be to sell some ammo in the US.

              J-F

            • Matt61 Says:

              Now that is interesting. I’m guessing that you don’t have the over-the-top demand as the U.S. But isn’t most of your ammo made by U.S. manufacturers? That being the case I would think that you would still get the shortage. Are the ammo makers sequestering a certain amount for Canada?

              Matt61

              • cowboystar dad Says:

                Matt…I’ve read how in States that don’t have a high percentage of sport shooters that the ammo shortage in the ‘States is not anywhere near as bad as the states that have a lot of shooters.
                I think it’s just a case of Canada having way less sport shooters…so we just don’t have the demand. I’ve talked to a couple of gun shops here and they report that they’ve never had any issues with hoarding…I know that when I walk into a store and see fully stocked shelves I’ve not felt the need to ‘stock up’.
                To give you an idea…Edmonton, where I live has two dedicated gun shops. We then have the gun depts. of one Cabela’s and two Wholesale Sports (our equivalent of Cabela’s).
                So, a city of one million that is easily served by two gunshops and three gun counters. (in Canada dept stores such as Sears and Walmart do not sell firearms).
                And these places are never what you would call crowded.
                So our city of one million probably goes through as much ammo in a year as a similar size city down there goes through in a month.
                The disadvantage is that selection is somewhat limited. The gunshops I’ve visited when I’ve been in the ‘States make a Canuck feel like a kid in a candy shop.
                The advantage…I can go to the gun range I am a member of (big bore range out to 500m, rimfire range to 100m, pistol range and trap range) at any time of the day or week and not worry about getting a bench. I’ve been to ranges in Nevada where if you didn’t get there early you might wait an hour to get a spot.

      • Gunfun1 Says:

        BB
        I get the same smile when I think about a air gun in a bug out situation.

        Especially something like a springer, nitro piston or pump gun. Your power is always self contained. I’m not talking about failures or wear. That happens to everything. Even us!

        And you don’t have to worry about getting gun powder, primers or casings. And the projectiles too.

        All you would have to worry about with above airguns I just mentioned would be the projectile/pellet.

        I wonder if a pellet could be made out of a piece of hardwood or even a stone. How about a ice cube mold the shape of a projectile.

        Wow I must of had a hard night at work or I’m getting tired because its too late. After re-reading my post. :{o That’s my (Oh) smiley face with a mustache.

    • Beazer Says:

      Howdy Slasher Dave! What’s the 5.7×28 for? Only askin’ cuz my primary carry is an FN 5.7. Kinda funny how cage critters “never see the bike”, but can spot Z.a.k. (Zombie *bottom* kicker, Ms. Edith will wash my mouth out w/soap if I say ass, I’m already on double secret probation) on my hip from a quarter mile away!?! Call it my bumper sticker, it sez “Please don’t tailgate”. Works real well. Just f.y.i., my workout routine these days consists of 12oz curls & chasin’ girls, jumpin’ ta conclusions & hoppin’ up on my soapbox…Shoot/ride safe.
      Beaz

  • twotalon Says:

    I finally found a tool for removing the cocking/locking pin from my Blue streak’s bolt. Now I have an opportunity to change the bolt o-ring if I can figure out what size it is. Anybody know ? Was made in early 70′s.
    Of course the little spring loaded thing in the bolt that I did not know about took a fast trip somewhere.

    twotalon

    • John Says:

      What I’d do is take the old o-ring and cocking bolt to your local hardware store and look through the 0-rings in the plumbing section. I’ve had to do that before with my discovery when I’d cut an o-ring putting it back together. If that doesn’t work you can always go to http://www.airgunbna.com/ and order a reseal kit. They have just about any reseal kit you could possibly need. I go to them whenever I need a part no matter how obscure it is. They’ve surprised me more than once when they had what I needed and even knew exactly what part I needed even if I didn’t quite know what to call it.

    • /Dave Says:

      tt,

      McMaster-Carr has most sizes you’d need including the really tiny ones. A hundred will probably be a couple bucks and be at your door in a couple days…

      /Dave

      • twotalon Says:

        /Dave

        The best I will be able to do is to measure the outside of the one that is there and find something that is just a little bigger. The old one is mashed flat and petrified. No way it can be removed without crumbling.

        twotalon

        • /Dave Says:

          You should be able to get pretty close if you have dial or digital calipers. That way you can at least estimate thickness and I’D and find the closest one that will fit. The o-rings on a blue steak should be standard dash sizes instead of metric. McMasters site has all of the dimensions you’ll need.

  • John Says:

    Today you showed my major beef with chinese made stuff. It’s not made right. The chinese are notorious slop artists. This is a new gun. You should expect that it was assembled correctly. You should not need to troubleshoot the gun right out of the box like that. This is precicely the reason I will not buy this gun. I don’t know what condition the gun will be in when I get it. I also have found out by past experience Umarex isn’t the best at taking care of your guns when they break.

  • Matt61 Says:

    Ha ha. I was wondering about my ballpoint pen question at the very instant that the post answered it. It was like mind-reading. This test is the standard. I remember when someone on the blog pointed out that some manufacturer’s advertisement about cutting the decibels in half was virtually meaningless because of the way that the decibels are defined on a logarithmic scale based on powers of 10.

    For the CO2 piercing, I do fondly remember the important advice to load CO2 cartridges in my 1077 and screw down just enough to pierce them. If not for that, I would still be twisting them in for all I was worth and have probably gone through a number of seals by now.

    Titus, right you are about the blog university. One of my main discoveries about information technology from my library book which I will share now is that THE criteria for effective communication is a combination of “high tech” and “high touch.” The high tech part is like it says and refers to communicating information from B.B. to hosts of people worldwide and among members. The high touch part is making sure that your communication stays human and doesn’t consist of a bunch of automated phone subdirectories as it often is. Conclusion: The blog is cutting edge in combining both with the high tech and the swarm of people answering everything under the sun. So never mind about creating some directory or index at some point. The blog is currently cutting edge!

    Matt61

  • B.B. Pelletier Says:

    This was sent in by Lee to the wrong address, so I am posting it here for him and will answer it below.

    I have the Benjamin Marauder Woods Walker, and want to put a scope on it. Could you recommend one? Further, is there anything that I can do to my Marauder to increase power?

    Lee

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      Lee,

      You want to use a rifle scope on your Marauder pistol, because pistol scopes just don’t give you all the precision you need.

      Tell me about your pistol. How fast does it shoot pellets now (tell me what kind they are) and how fast do you want to shoot them? You know that as the power increases, the number of shots you will get on a fill will decrease.

      B.B.

      • Lynx Says:

        My Woods Walker is in .22, with no major mods, with a few hundred rounds through it, and my favorite pellet is the Baracuda Hunter Extreme 19.09 Gr. I don’t have a Chrony, so I can’t give you a velocity.

        • B.B. Pelletier Says:

          Lynx,

          Okay, without a chronograph you are flying blind when you attempt to change the velocity. Why not get a few thousand rounds through the gun first and save for a chrony that you’ll have to have anyhow?

          Have you tried JSB pellets in your pistol yet. The 15.9 grain Exact should be very accurate.

          Why do you want to increase the velocity? The Marauder pistol has a small air supply and there may be better ways to get what you want than to hot-rod it.

          B.B.

  • David Says:

    B.B.

    It will be interesting to see how the Crosman SSP does in the accuracy testing. In my Gamo Recon Whisper this pellet just won’t group at all. Just came in from a quick session under less then favorable conditions (wind gusting and swirling). The Crosman SSP put only 5 out of 10 rounds on the Gamo paper target I was using, you couldn’t call it a group since the closest spacing on the paper was almost 2 1/2 inches. In contrast despite the poor shooting conditions I was able to shoot a .81 group using RWS R-10 Match pellets.

    Shooting 10 meters open sights
    Wind 8 with gusts to 25 mph
    Temperature 45 deg

  • Bill in Indy Says:

    Hello all, I just got my Marauder today, haven’t stopped smiling yet! BB you were kind enough to check your marauder mags yesterday for the small cracks I had in the one I just got. I contacted pyramyd, just to make them aware of the issue, I told them I was pretty sure I could use it still, and didnt want to have to send it back. They are sending me another one free of charge. Goes along with what you said yesterday about buying from the best, they certainly are. Well my bad luck continues, the magazine that came with my marauder has the same cracks. I wont post a pic but they look exactly like the ones in the pic I posted yesterday. I used a very bright flashlight to look into each hole and make sure they werent just surface imperfections, and they do go all the way through the backplate. I feel confident that I can use the mag and not have any problems. I am just going to use it and see… anyway I wondered if you have had experince with the high pressure steel scuba tanks that fill to 3500psi, I am trying to figure out which road to go down with my fill equipment. Dont have quite the budget for a carbon fiber, though my dive shop can fill to 4500. Just wanted to know your thoughts about those tanks, I understand on certain types of them (my dive shop gave me the numbers to look for) they have a + rating and can be overfilled 10% legally. That would be 3850. Seems like a good option considering the cost difference. Thanks again for giving us all such wonderful information, this blog seems like the one place online where everyone who posts is considerate and wants to help others with there enjoyment of our hobby. That is very rare.

    • B.B. Pelletier Says:

      Bill,

      My buddy Mac had one of those 3500 psi scuba tanks that he used for years before he got his carbon fiber tank and it works well for him. It’s made of steel, so it is heavier than either the aluminum scuba tank or the CF tank, but that is about the only drawback. It should work well for you.

      I am going to alert PA about the second cracked mag and they may want to check with Crosman, as they buy a lot of guns from them.

      Thanks,

      B.B.

  • Lynx Says:

    I’m interested in the Benjamin Rogue .357 Big Bore, have been since I first heard about it. What’s being said that’s hype and what’s accurate?

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