by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Remington’s 1911RAC is very realistic to look at and hold.
This report covers:
- Gas loss?
- Today’s test
- First up — Air Venturi zinc-plated BBs
- H&N Smart Shot lead BBs
- Avanti Precision Ground Shot
- Trigger pull
- Overall evaluation
Today we look at the accuracy of the Remington 1911RAC BB pistol,
and I’m going to tell you up front — ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner! This one really shoots.
In Part 2 I encountered a loss of gas that made it impossible to get a shot count. Also, the gun was empty when I started that test, despite having a fresh CO2 cartridge installed 2 weeks earlier. I told you I was going to install another fresh cartridge after testing the gun last time, and the first thing I would do in this test was see if there was still gas remaining. Well, there was.
When I started this test the first thing I did was cock the hammer and squeeze off a blank shot. The gun fired perfectly and the slide blew back to the locked position because the magazine was installed. I then ran this entire test with that same cartridge that had been in the gun for a week. That’s what I expect from a CO2 pistol.
Maybe the second drop of Crosman Pellgunoil (on the tip of every fresh cartridge) finally did its job, or maybe I just tightened the CO2 cartridge tensioning screw a little more this time. I don’t know why it worked, but it did.
There is still a problem getting the magazine out of the gun when the slide if forward, but once it is retracted the mag comes right out. That is bothersome, but not a deal-killer in my opinion.
I shot the gun from 5 meters (16 feet 3 inches) with my shooting hand rested on the UTG Monopod. I rested my shooting hand instead of the gun itself because of the blowback feature. I didn’t want that slide hitting the Monopod when it came back. This was a very steady shooting position, and I knew if the pistol was accurate I was going to get good groups.
First up — Air Venturi zinc-plated BBs
The first BB I tried was the Air Venturi zinc-plated BB. In past testing I have found these BBs to be equal to Daisy’s Premium Grade BBs, Umarex Precision BBs and Hornady Black Diamond BBs, so it isn’t necessary to try them all. One will suffice for all of them.
I was very pleased with the first group, which turned out to be the best group of the test. Ten BBs went into 0.881-inches at 5 meters. And not just that — they went to the exact point of aim, which was the 6 o’cock position on the bull! This pleased me very much. It means the gun has what it takes for action pistol shooting.
Ten Air Venturi zinc-plated BBs went into this tight 0.881-inch group at 5 meters. The point of impact is the exact point of aim.
H&N Smart Shot lead BBs
For a change of pace I tried H&N Smart Shot lead BBs next. They fed perfectly through the spring-loaded magazine. I mention that because some readers were concerned that the lead BBs would deform under spring pressure from the magazine follower. But they acted just like steel BBs in all respects.
These BBs shot to the aim point as well. Nine of them went into 0.958, which is very close to the Avanti BBs. The tenth BB unfortunately dropped down and opened the group to 1.839-inches. I have no idea why that happened because all the shots were fired with the sights in exactly the same position.
Ten H&N Smart Shot lead BBs went into 1.839-inches at 5 meters, but 9 of them are in a very round 0.958-inch group. That shot below the dime opened the group to almost double.
Avanti Precision Ground Shot
The final BB I tested was the Avanti Precision Ground Shot. I always think these are going to shoot better than anything else, but unless the gun is a Daisy 499, they usually don’t. This time they were second-best, or second-worst, depending on your outlook. Ten went into 1.304-inches at 5 meters. They were still pretty much hitting at the aim point.
Ten Avanti Precision Ground Shot went into 1.304-inches at 5 meters.
I commented in part 2 that the trigger was a bit creepy and not that precise. That’s still true in the accuracy test, but as light as this trigger is, the creepy pull doesn’t present a problem. I just got surprised each time the gun fired. But shooting the gun off the monopod was so stable that it didn’t matter.
This test hasn’t been without some problems. I had the gas loss problem in Part 2 and the magazine still hangs up when the slide is forward. And finally the lettering on the slide and frame does detract from the gun’s appearance.
On the other hand, this BB pistol is so accurate that I can forgive a lot. The trigger is a bit creepy, but it doesn’t interfere with my hold.
Bottom line is the Remington 1911 RAC I’m testing finished the test well. I can recommend it, but I will tell you to test the one you get for gas loss, and always use Crosman Pellgunoil.
63 thoughts on “Remington 1911RAC BB pistol: Part 3”
Great report, have been looking at one of these for awhile. The magazine problem is the same that I have with my Legends P-08. The hammer has to be cocked or the toggle retracted for the mag to release. Maybe I missed it but what was the total shot count out of a co2 cartridge?
You need to read Part 1. I had a gas leak and didn’t get a shot count. I would estimate not over 60-70 shots, because of the blowback.
I admit I’m not really into BB pistols but with the realism, accuracy and blowback feature as well as the field stripping instructions this one is tempting.
Thanks for the review! If I didn’t have $100 I’m limbo due to the botched HIPac order I’d probably go ahead and order one to have it here but Christmas but I’ll have to hold off for a bit to keep from overextending myself.
See what happens there Alex?
Sorry, I’m going off topic but I have a fascination with this model 50 I’ve been shooting. The tap loading feature of this rifle prevents any seating of the pellet snugly in the breech. Because of this I cannot consistently gage the depth. Does this effect it’s accuracy? And because it is not snug, does it allow the piston to slam into the end of the compression chamber like a dry fire? Love the rifle, just curious. Thanks again. Your wisdom is well appreciated by this novice!
How about I make tomorrow’s blog about taploaders? There is a lot to tell.
That sounds like a good blog for the weekend.
I always like when you tell about the taploaders.
Have you tried RWS Superdomes or Superpoints in the 50? As B.B., has mentioned in previous reports, the soft thin skirts of those expand well in taploaders. (What HASN’T B.B. addressed in one report or another?) I will add that my 50 also is quite a loud shooter for the low power ir is supposed to have. I’ll chrony it to make sure it’s healthy as soon as I am off for Christmas. (Yep, I learned the importance of having a chrony to use as a diagnostic tool from this blog as well.)
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for the advice. I’ve tried JSB Exact, H&N Barracudas, and Super Domes. I got the best results from the Supers Domes, just like you said. The thing that got me thinking is that it kicks so hard that even with a leapers droop compensator, it was sliding on the dovetail. I’ve got it cranked down now, and the grub screws lined up with the screw holes. (A little locktite wouldn’t hurt). Never having a tap loader before I just wanted to make sure I could get the best performance and longevity out of it. I’d be really interested in hearing about your chrony results. Thanks
I have a UTG/Leapers drooper mount, (PY-A-491), and as long as least 1 of the pins is lined up with the receiver, the adapter should (never) move. With a Weaver top, the rings you choose will make difference on a springer. P.A. seems to sell only rings that have a round cross pin. Weaver brand rings at Wally World have the square type cross pin. That is what I use and they work great. On the round one’s, the pin will try to ride over the square groove. Nothing moves now. To be sure the scope is not moving in the rings, take a few measurements and shoot about 100 shots and measure again. The 4 screw rings, 2 per side, per ring,…work the best for springers. While not a PCP shooter, I think the round pin type would work fine
Just my 2 cents. Chris
Day two of looking for a dry ice supplier, looks like it’s 9# or nothing with no way to store the excess except a cooler and it can’t be latched.
What do you need dry ice for? If you said, I forgot, sorry. An airgunning work in progress?
It’s for shipping perishables.
Ok. There was some talk awhile back on heating and cooling parts so as to fit one, on the other. I think it was B.B.’s “super tuned” rifle and the compensator that was custom made for it. Wonder what happened with it?
@ -109.3℉.It should give plenty of time to fit parts so would be a good way to get an interference fit and if I had a project involving one I’d be getting it together but I can’t get it any smaller than 9# and only need about 1 so I’ll have quite a bit going to waste but any small shards will go into my 2240. As long as I don’t pack it full it should be alright.
I’ve been trying to find a Co2 fire extinguisher that needs filling but the closest I can find is $200 for a syphon tube canister.
Sure do wish I had a place to store that scuba tank I got a few years back!
Huh???? Dry ice shards in the 2240? You HAVE to explain that one!
It’s pretty simple.
The only catch is that it has no relief valve but it’s already taking 12 grams every time I replace a Co2 cartridge.
I watched a video of a guy refilling his Ninja bottle that way.
It could get scary without a relief valve and I don’t wanna blow up my 2240 but it’s the only tank I have capable of holding 850-1000psi.
DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME!
Not sure I want to know anymore than that! 😉 The,… “scary”, “blow up” and the “DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME” parts of that comment kind of put me off of trying anything like that,…….no thanks!
You didn’t like mu disclaimer?
“mu”?,…picking up a new language there or what? As for the “disclaimer”,…there is enough stupid people in the world already,…I try to aspire to NOT be another one.
Nice shooting. I’ve been trying to get by with my airsoft 1911. However, you have to manually work the slide for each shot which takes away from the realism.
I’ve continued to wonder about my 3 stage trigger on my CZ 75 and think there might be a tactical purpose. Taking up the slack on the first stage is easy enough. A normal two stage trigger would then break as additional pressure was applied. But this one will travel a bit before breaking in a third stage. Maybe the intermediate stage is for some kind of hostage situation where you want to make absolutely sure you have the right target. Anyway, I am steadily adjusting to it.
That’s what turned me off the airsoft pistols.
This appears to be a nice gun but the price is almost as much as some used firearms. matter of fact,I paid $40 for 2 of the used powder burning pistols I’ve bought used.
As usual I am off subject and a few days behind the in the blog.
From your report on the Air Arms S410 test I became obsessed with the pellets hitting at an angle on the target. The fact that they were all tilted at the same angle is very intriguing. I have seen this before and figured it was from the paper not tight up against the backing. That may have something to do with the size of the tear but does not seem to be the cause at all.
I did some tests today to see if I could duplicate the results. I only have a maximum range of 40 yards and only 34 of it is easy access. So I could not do long range shoots for the test. I have been trying to bring life back into a Benjamin 312 pump and figured that would be good for the test as I could adjust the trajectory by the number of pumps. My groups are still not good with this gun for a number of reasons one is that the barrel is bent. Anyway that should not be an issue for the test.
I chose two pellets for the test and used 3 shot groups:
A. Falcon 13.43 grain domed (relatively short and light pellet)
B. Beeman Kodiak 21.14 grain between domed and pointed (relatively long and heavy pellet)
1. I started the test at 30 yards with six pumps.
A. Falcon .5 inch low no angle group size 1.0 inch
B. Kodiak 2 inch low no angle group size 1.3 inches
2. Next test at 30 yards with three pumps.
A. Falcon 3.7 inch low Large angle obvious and vertical group size 1.3 inches
B. Kodiak 12 inch low No angle but slightly ragged hole group size 2.1 inches
3. Next test at 5 yards with one pump
A. Falcon not tested
B. Kodiak 12 inch low No angle but slightly ragged hole
4. Next test at 10 yards with one pump
A. Falcon not tested
B. Kodiak 25 inch low small angle and vertical
Note the drop on the last two tests were estimates as I was aiming above my target.
I still don’t have a good feel for what is causing the angle in the paper tears. My tears were mostly vertical and for test two with the Falcon pellet they were extremely alike in shape, size and angle. The Kodiak pellets did not give much similarity in the angle or size or shape of the tear even at 10 yards with the huge drop in trajectory. In conclusion I would say that heavy long pellets will not show this tear pattern as easily as short light pellets. From my tests I still had better accuracy with the short light pellet even when it showed a large obvious tear angle. There could be may reasons for this including the fact that the Kodiak is not a pellet I would chose for accuracy in the 312.
On test 4 I used a large sheet of cardboard as the target without any marks on it. One of the pellets was stuck about halfway into the cardboard of my target stand behind the large front sheet. The pellet stuck in the backing cardboard did not show any angle even though the tear in the first sheet did. The rifling marks on the head and skirt were very clean and uniform.
The groups B.B. was getting with the large angle tear were still very accurate for 100 yards and that kind of drop. ChairGun was predicting about 22 inches of drop for his setup so I would think that the pellet was tilting and slowing down from the increased ballistic coefficient of the tilted pellet. Or was there a wobble in the axis of rotation that was so exact that the pellet always was at the same rotation in its wobble at the target?
I ended up with more questions than answers in this test. It would be interesting to see some slow motion video of this phenomena as the pellet hits the target. The results do show that short light pellets show this pattern more than long heavy pellets and slow large drops in trajectory increase the occurrences of the tears. My tears were mostly vertical and could be attributed the large downward angle of the trajectory but the consistent angle in B.B’s target makes that hard to support. The angle is no where near enough by itself to cause the tear.
Teds Holdover on youtube has at least one video about pellet wobble specifically, very good footage and his determination was it is directly related to velocity, different velocitys start the wobble, seemingly too fast or too slow. I guess thats why pellets have sweet spots and velocity changes affect accuracy so dramatically. I too am behind on the blog from work hours, but this topic was very interesting to me too. Pellet stability is a favorite subject of mine, and different lengths having different spin speeds required to stabilize them, so a pellet of X length will want an rpm of Y achieved at a velocity of Z…. = no wobble, now just need to adjust Z or switch out for a different X, … aka.. pellet testing! 🙂
That may the best, simplest, least worded explanation I have ever heard.
Thanks, I have an inkling that some people have this thought that the barrel has a twist rate and that’s how fast the pellet spins, and that their gun is more accurate at a certain velocity but dont know why. The shape and length of the pellet and how fast it wants to spin is overlooked quite often it seems, I love thinking about it, its almost the entire subject of external ballistics.
And that is what makes this such an interesting hobby! Good work.
My take on the whole tipping issue is that the pellet is just running out of “steam”. But “thank you” for all the testing. I love that kind of stuff. As for repeating a tear mark/tilt,…If you are shooting a good gun and good pellets, I do not see any reason that the pattern would not repeat.
I absolutely agree the pellets are running out of steam when this happens. It is interesting to me when I try to make ultra long range shots with a pellet gun. Is this caused by the diablo shape or what. How can you squeeze the last drop of accuracy out of the setup you have. The fact that the results are repeatable should provide some clues to what is or isn’t causing this and what effect it has on accuracy and distance. If the pellet is not rotating around its longitudinal axis and the axis is not following the trajectory then you will lose both accuracy and velocity with distance. I would like to know if the pellet is tilting or wobbling along the trajectory and what types of pellet shapes will reduce this tendency. If the pellet has more weight on the outside of the shape it will have more radial momentum to carry the spin and should be more stable but the different weight in the head and skirt may cause it to tumble along the flight path. Anyway just curious on the physics of the pellets. If I can understand what is going on at the extreme end of the pellet trajectory will help squeeze the last bit accuracy from the setup.
The short light pellet gave me very repeatable results. The long heavy pellet was hard to make tear the target and did not give repeatable results. The long heavy pellet was also less accurate. I may be different in an different gun setup.
I like your enthusiasm and your need to “get to the bottom of it”. GF1 likes the JSB’s in 10.34’s and they are a fatter/straight waisted pellet in.177. I tried the H+N’s Snipers in 14.0g. (similar) in .22 but they did not do as well as my usual JSB’s in 15.89 and 18.13. I think that the diabolo shape has it’s limits. When pushing air real high, the more cylindrical shapes and even hand cast bullets have proven their worth. The Diabolo seems to work well for under 1,100 fps though.
Chris and Benji
I believe when the pellet is running out of its velocity and its at the end of its flight path. The rotation is slowing down. That will make the pellet become more unstable. Any little bit of wind at longer distances at the target could upset the flight. Just because it feels calm at where your standing doesn’t mean it’s calm at the target.
And if the pellet is at the end of the trajectory yaw would be the nose and skirt diameters are not on the centerline axis as the pellets flying. I still think that the pellet stays on its centerline but it just follows the path its on.
What Chairgun doesn’t show and what people don’t think about is what the flight path or trajectory looks like from above.
Say you were on a platform in the air and for some reason you could see the pellet fly as it left the barrel and hit the target. Let’s say the pellet is rotating to the right as it leaves the barrel from the guns rifling. As it flys the pellet stays straight on its path to the target but trys to arch of to the right. What is happening is two axis of flight are actually happening.
The pellet is heading to the right and down. I believe the right hand movement happens from the rotation and the pellet slowing down and at the end of its flight gravity is taking over more than its loosing rotation. So that’s why you get a sideways and downward tear at longer distances.
I know from shooting at longer distances even with my .25 caliber Marauder. I have to add about a 1/2 mildot of right in the gun at a 100 yards and out. And that’s if its windy or not. I still need that amount of windage hold.
The more you shoot at longer distances with a pellet the more you will see that you can’t just put the reticle on the target and hit. You have to use Kentucky windage without a doubt in my mind. And I’m talking hold over and left or right hold.
Think about what BB said. The pellet hit 24″ low or something. That means he had to raise the muzzle of the gun so many inches up to make that pellet hit the bullseye. The gun was probably pointed up at 10 degree angle. I don’t believe he said how far to the left or right of the bullseye he hit. He did say it was calm though. So if he did hit left or right of the bullseye also. That means the pellets flight was not a true straight line to the target left or right.
If I could truly see the pellet fly I would be a much better shootersI do know that. And the pellets flight path no way resembles a lazer beam. The pellet no matter how much distance you shoot at will be on a steep down hill path when the velocity is deteriating away at the end. Even a 30-06 will have that happen. Obviously not at 100 yards but somewhere way our there the bullet will drop off fast if you angled the muzzle up high enough at the end of its velocity. Gravity will take over. Airguns just do it in closer because the pellet doesn’t weigh 200 grains and is flying at 3000 fps. They both are going to come down at some point.
Chris and GF1
I just bought a batch of the different more cylindrical style pellets to try at long range in my marauder. I may try them in the 312 pumper just to see what happens. I think with the test I did at relatively close range I was able to repeat some of what we are talking about but not all of what starts to come into play at longer shots.
This reminds me of the time I spent two weeks studying the physics of my particular new bowling ball and drew up exactly how I wanted it to be drilled. I had an asymmetric center weight and I wanted a specific way for it to curve. That ball still gives me the best scores. Of all the ones I have. I will never know if my drilling plan would have worked though because the old timer at the pro shop threw my papers in the trash and told me he had been drilling balls for thirty years and knew what to do.
The spin on the bullet/pellet does affect the lift or curve on the projectile. Same as a curveball but the spin needs to be against air velocity. In baseball the curveball is spinning with the axes nearly perpendicular to the trajectory there fore the air velocity is different on the top and bottom of the ball. Faster on the bottom causing a reduction in air pressure and causing the ball to go down from the higher pressure on top of the ball. I think for the pellet trajectory to change; as long as it is spinning on an axis parallel to its flight path there needs to be a side wind to cause it to curve.
Once the pellet starts to slow down and lose spin it is hard to say what the air flow across the head of the pellet is doing.
I fooled around to long and now will need to wait for spring to do some long distance shooting with the cylindrical pellets in my marauder.
One thing for sure we know something is happening to the pellets flight.
To many things can make what we are seeing happen.
I can tell you this. If its the right time of the day just before the sun goes down and the plowed feild is still lit up bright and golden yellow from the sun. And the tree line out at 150 yards is in the shade. I can shoot out in the feild at 100 yards and see the pellet which is the 31.02 grain Barracudas in my .25 Marauder. I can not see if the pellet is yawing. But I definitely can see the left hand arch happening as well as the upward then downward arch as the pellet flys then hits the target.
I have seen pellets corkscrew in flight, seen them tumble in flight. Trajectory is definitely a different thing than those conditions.
The thing is if you put targets out every 15 yards past 50 yards and out to 100 yards and put a 1″ black circle in the middle of that paper and put the (+) right on the dot. You will find that the pellet not only hits to one side or the other of the black circle but also higher than the black circle or lower than the black circle at different distances.
If you do your hold over at different distances and hold your (+) vertical line dead in line with the middle of the black circle. I’m willing to bet your going to miss the shot because you will be left or right of the target. You might be in line with you horizontal hold over. Bet the pellet will not hit dead on in the left or right movement. And it won’t be because of wind. It will be the other part of the pellets trajectory.
I agree with the left and right. I have seen very large spirals in the trajectory with some pellets. B.B. says it is in an axis wobble and I agree. The only other cause would be a lack of spin. After the discussion I started checking the pellets and they showed good contact with the rifling. The low velocity shots today we’re easy to see and I did not see any spiral or drift in the trajectory. The problem is accuracy and all these characteristics to the trajectory don’t seem to correlate. Some of my pellets that shoot left or right are the most accurate as long as the drift is minor.
Here something else I’ll throw in the mix.
I usually have 4 airguns out when I’m shooting on the weekend. They are all variuos calibers and power rates. And different pellet weight also.
When I set those targets out past 50 yards and out to a 100 each gun needs a different amount of hold over to center of the target up and down.
But on the windage hold to the right I can stay pretty much the same hold on each gun. And if the wind is blowing harder than normal I do have to put more or less windage hold in to my shot than the normal right hold depending on what direction the wind is comming from.
How all that affects the way the pellet hits is why we are having this conversation.
But the biggest thing about all this is the pellet hitting the paper at its funny angle happens pretty consistent all the time.
Be it yaw where the pellet is cocked off axis and stays on a arched flight path or if it is the angle of approach the pellet is flying at its always a pretty consistent hit on the paper. If its spiral or cork screw or tumble the pellet does not hit in the same orientation.
But here’s where this conversation could go is that people test there guns and be aware of how a projectile can hit a target in variuos ways. And that there are many conditions that can affect the way the pellet fly’s and hits.
But most of all that any of the conditions that the pellet fly’s in can make you mis your target if you don’t know somethings happening.
Should I step it up one more notch now. What if we had the same gun the same power level and the same pellet. But slowed the spin rate down or sped it up. And I don’t want to talk at in close distances of 50 yards and in. We know the pellets fly pretty good at those distances even if its a lowered powered gun. Let’s talk a 100 yards were everything seems to multiply.
So would you want a faster spin on you pellet if you shot out at a 100 yards? Do you think it would change the way the pellet hit?
You could watch the pellets flight, its just the matter of a thousand dollar camera 😉
I am saving my money for a long range powder burnner. I am curious but not that curious.
There are videos out there if you search it.
I do know I seen a video of a guy shooting his .25 Marauder at 100 yards with a scope mounted camera. Can’t remember his name for the life of me right now. But it was a very distinct picture of the pellets flight to the target.
He was shooting on a outdoor range in a lane and a burm behind the target with a red plastic dimond patrerned fence or stop of some sort.
It for sure showed the arch trajectory with the pellet moving to the left if I remember correctly.
But he tests alot of guns and has bunch’s of videos and their all mostly long range shots. Alot of them he is shooting pigeons on a farm.
Try $40,000. The cameras that take those pictures RENT for a thousand an day and more. And you get about 8 seconds of video per high-gig card.
You just made a comment above about the videos I’m talking about.
Ted is a great guy for our sport, he’s intelligent, determined to teach you something and doesnt sound like a jerk doing it. I watch some videos I’ve seen already a dozen times and still entertaining. I think he’s going to be around for a long time and continue to do great things for airgunning. I’d like to see him team up with pyramyd air, but think he’s an AOA guy… they do his edguns and FX stuff that pyramyd isnt with.
Yep he does.
Have you seen his video with the semi-auto FX Revolution. He hits a flying bird with it.
I May have seen that one too but I remember it being followed by a montage of wingshots,I’ve seen a whole Buncha good ones by him!
My thumbnails are over1/4″ long and my insurance company won’t allow my assistant to clip them, that requires a nurse which I have applied for.
If I try to clip them myself I wind up with bad hangnails and scratches all over from them.
Although I really don’t have fat fingers my typing sometimes makes it seem as though I do.
That, I must say, is a very curious admission! I cant use fingernail clippers, the feeling makes me cringe and the edge they leave drives me mad, I bite a little cut on one edge of the nail and pull it the rest of the way, like the top of a sealed bag that has a Ziploc seal you use after its opened? You cut the edge then pull the top off? I could have anybody else do that… if your incisors are up to it!
Unfortunately I already wore my teeth down before I hit my teens by doing it just the way you described.
It costs about $20 for a manicure which is more than I need. I did clip the right thumb nail after I typed that so I could participate without so many typos.
With the coordination all but gone in my left it causes the clippers to slide sideways and slip off. When I get them in my right it comes to trying to keep the left still,so neither side ever comes out well. My assistant comes in again tomorrow and I’ll try to get her to straighten out any mess I’ve made but no guarantees there.
Amazingly enough they’ll let her shave my face if I wanted but clipping nails requires a nurse?! :/
Perhaps of interest; there’s a 499-B on Gun Broker advertised for training young shooters, shoots corks. 10 corks supplied. Wonder how it groups???
At 2 inches from the muzzle or 10 feet from the muzzle.
You got me. I can’t say that I have studied the trajectory of a cork yet. Notice I say yet.
I laughed at first but since the muzzle cap comes right off, and with it the barrel, I do suppose it would work. It’s a pretty weak gun at the start and depending on how hard the cork would be seated, it may not even pop out. Still, pretty interesting. There is cork balls as well. Mmmmmm? 😉
Just measured the barrel removed. .816″ However the muzzle cap does have a nice size opening which is .453″. After looking at this, it would seem that the barrel in set up would be the best. Stay tuned,…this could get interesting depending on what I can find for ammo. Heck, may even do a chrony and accuracy test. Std. cork = wad cutters, and round cork = domes/round balls. If I do, it will be posted on a current blog.
Those are not for a 499 B. Those are 499 corks (the quantity) for a Daisy cork gun — I believe he says model 95.
The listing I saw is no longer there. I didn’t make note of the seller so I can’t say if the listing was modified or taken down but it had several days to run. It referred to the 499 as shooting BB’s but a new shooter could be started on shooting corks, and the gun would shoot about 20 feet. Some corks were included. Actually the idea kind of makes sense. A new shooter could be taught safe gun handling and then move on to shooting accurately.
Found the listing through Advanced Search on GB:
Here we have a Daisy 499B Cork rifle. It is in very nice shape. There are a few marks but still shows very well. The gun shoots well. It will also come with a nearly full bag of corks! Nice one for the collection.
I didn’t want to embarass anyone so I didn’t give the listing number but it was taken down.
Still researching the vast array of 1911s out there but so far the Tanfoglio Witness and the Winchester seem to be a couple of the bets…
You didn’t like the Remington?
I’d prefer not being restricted to BB’s myself but I was impressed.
The intermittent leaking CO2 and sticking magazine turned me off, though the accuracy is good. Also, I want something authentic that will spend some time in a display case with other historic arms and the large white printing on the slide is a big turnoff in that regard. Still shopping, though, and I’ll definitely be considering those I’m most informed about.
The large white letters are distracting but I guess it’s better than a blaze orange muzzle.
I believe the slide locking back on the final round should take care of the gas loss issue, I don’t recall any major issues with the slide locked back at all.
Got it, and agreed on the orange barrel. I find it ironic since a gun that fires steel BBs is probably more dangerous than one that fires plastic BBs–I guess that’s a result of so many more airsoft guns than BB and pellet guns being military look-alikes. Just glad legislation has left airguns alone for the most part.
I’m guessing all this white lettering is an attempt to avoid such legislation.
Anyway it sounds like it would work well for me
Ugh, “better bets”!