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Education / Training Falke 90 test: Part 1

Falke 90 test: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier

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Falke 90 left
My Falke 90 is a well-built vintage air rifle.

If you’ve been a reader for long time, or have read the older reports, the chances are you’e read about my .22-caliber Falke 90. I ran a report titled Shooting the Falke 90 back in early 2011. The problem is that I didn’t shoot the rifle for that test. That was back at the end of my illness, and my good friend Mac graciously stepped in and shot the rifle. Plus, he wrote up the data so I could write the test report because I couldn’t cock a spring rifle at that time. Blog reader Vince had just tuned the rifle for me back then and reported on that in a three-part report titled It’s not my Falke in very early 2011.

So, a lot has been said about my Falke 90. The thing is that I didn’t have much to do with what was said! I never really tested the gun, because as I’ve stated, I was unable to cock it. This came to my attention at the Roanoke airgun show a couple weeks ago, where Mac and I discussed the rifle at length.

Mac says the rifle feels like a .22 rimfire when it shoots. Now, if I knew he wasn’t experienced with vintage springers, I would pass off a statement like that, but Mac knows as much as I do about vintage airguns. There must be something to it.

Then, I re-read Vince’s three-part report on fixing the gun. All along, I had in my mind that the Falke was almost exactly the same as a Hakim, and there were many similarities between the two air rifles. But the Falke also has some standalone features that bear examination. I’ll point these out as I go.

So, I’m starting a look at the Falke 90 from my own perspective. I bet I haven’t shot the gun 100 times since it came back from Vince, so this will be a learning experience for me, as well as for those who follow along. Let’s begin with a brief look at the company that made this air rifle.

The history will have to be brief, because not a lot is known about the Falke company. We know they had a catalog in 1951, and the models 80 and 90 (both underlevers, with the 90 being the top model) were not listed. But in a 1952 catalog, both are listed as new offerings. The Falke company operated in Bennsigen, Germany, during the 1950s. If the 1952 date is correct (and it can’t be later than that, can it?), the Falke 90 pre-dates by several years the Hakim made by Anschütz.

We also know that the BSA Airsporter that also resembles the Falke 90 was first made in the late 1940s — so it was the first airgun to use this type of underlever design. Therefore, the chronology goes –> BSA Airsporter, Falke 80/90 and the Hakim last.

Writer W.H.B. Smith said in Gas, Air and Spring Guns of the World, regarding the Falke 80/90, that no finer or more powerful airgun existed at the time (1957). He did see the BSA Airsporter, but I can’t tell if he ever looked inside one. Vince, though, has seen the inside of all three guns — the first variation Airsporter, my Falke 90 and several Hakims. It’s his opinion that the BSA is superior to both other rifles in the quality of the build. I must refrain from this discussion, since the earliest Airsporter of which I’ve seen the insides was a 5th variation. It was not up to the standards of the Falke 90 but was about the equal of the Hakim, in my opinion.

The one interesting thing about both the model 80 and model 90 is their rarity. There are suspected to be only 400 model 80s ever made and fewer than 200 model 90s. A lack of information about the company prevents us from knowing for certain how many were made, plus there are duplicate serial numbers in both model ranges. A worldwide serial number registration exists on the Falke Talk forum. My rifle is number 39…and as of this date, there’s no duplicate.

Falke 90 loading tap
The serial number is on the lever of the loading tap, among other places.

What makes the 90?
I keep referring to the 80 and 90 together, but what differentiates them? Their actions are similar, but they do have differences. The 80 has a sporting type open adjustable rear sight, while the 90 has a precision diopter. My rifle has the sight that belongs on an 80, and I see that many Falke owners share my situation. There are more 90s than there are diopter sights for them, so either Falke sold them with the sporter sights at some time, or they have been lost over the years and replaced with the lesser sporter sight.

The sporter sight is a beautiful thing by itself, and it is one point of departure from the Hakim that has a far simpler rear sight. The Falke sight is mostly machined, while the Hakim is mostly made from stamped parts. Both are fine by today’s standards; but in a side-by-side comparison, the win goes to Falke. I wish I had a diopter sight for my rifle, but they are so scarce that people have actually machined them from steel just to have one!

Falke 90 rear sight
Heavy and machined — the rear sight is exactly what an airgunner wants to see.

The stock is another point of departure for the Falke 90 — not just from the Hakim, but also from its own sibling, the Falke 80. We all know the Hakim has a military-looking stock, because it was built as a military trainer for the Egyptian army that was armed with the 8mm Hakim semiautomatic battle rifle at the time. The Hakim also has an upper handguard, even though it is completly unnecessary on an airgun.

The Falke 80 has a nice sporter stock made from elm. It resembles the BSA Airsporter stock a little. But the Falke 90 has an in-your-face walnut stock with thick cross-section and high cheekpiece. The wood is well-executed and hand checkered and wears the Falke logo proudly. On my rifle, unfortunately, some budding folk artist decided to give the Mona Lisa a second coat of paint, by carving his initials into the checkered panel on the left side of the forearm. Or at least he started to! Then I suppose he found a freeway overpass to deface and lost his focus. That vandalism makes my rifle look like a beater, despite the fiddleback grain in the walnut.

So, I am resolving to fix this problem, by refinishing the stock. I’ll take pictures as I go; and if you never hear about the rifle again, you’ll know I turned the stock into kindling.

This rifle is large and heavy — 9 lbs. on the nose and with a longer pull than the Hakim at 13.5 inches. The barrel measures 19 inches and the length overall is 44 inches. It has sling swivels built in, with the forward swivel attached to the fixed barrel. They’re the thin 3/4-inch European type that were in vogue in the 1950s.

Mac has already reported some velocity numbers for RWS Superdomes. They averaged 490 f.p.s. with a spread from 481 to 494 f.p.s. And the Eley Wasps he tested averaged 474 f.p.s., though their spread went from 451 to 500 f.p.s. The Wasps are fatter pellets, and Mac had better luck with them in the accuracy test — but I want to say something about that. I’ve discovered that the loading tap on this rifle is not overly large. I’m used to pellets falling into the tap of a Hakim, but those same pellets have to be pushed into this rifle’s tap. So, it may prefer different pellets than have been tried so far. I’ll have some fun finding that out for you.

Impressions so far
Like I said, I haven’t shot this rifle enough yet to know it very well, but I can already tell you that it isn’t a Hakim. It’s similar, but finish and fit is better in every critical place. I can’t say that I agree with Mac that it feels like a .22 rimfire, but I haven’t shot it for accuracy yet. That’s when I’ll know for sure — one way or the other. What I can say at this time is that the Falke 90 is a very robust and well-made air rifle that feels good to hold and shoot. I’m going to enjoy this test.

It’s a shame that my rifle was beat up so much. Not only were the initials cut into the stock, there are numerous scratches and dents put there by a lot of careless handling. Hopefully, I can restore it to some state of respectability while enjoying it at the same time.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

57 thoughts on “Falke 90 test: Part 1”

  1. BB,
    I think you can fix that stock pretty easily, since the initials are all inside the checkered area. I would chisel out a regularly shaped area that goes with the checkering and then inlay a thin piece of similarly colored walnut, which could then be checkered over in the same pattern. It might be visible on very close inspection, but I think you could make it pretty hard to detect, since the checkering will break everything up visually. Given your peep sight alterations on the Bronco, however, please practice on some scrap first :)!

  2. BG_Farmer,

    I’m still chuckling to my self reading and rereading your, “please practice on some scrap first”. That picture of the Bronco popped into my mind clear as a bell. However, in the interest of being a gentleman I will not include a link to said picture, but I sure would be happy to pay the shipping both ways if you’d offer to do that stock repair.

    I wonder what that rear sight would cost in today’s world?


    • I’d venture to guess at least three arms & two legs…..given it’s rarity and presumed quality! Just look at how nice that sporter rear sight.You might be able to swap a Daisy Defender model 40 bayonet in good condition for one.

  3. BB,
    Some guns make me scratch my head and say “why”. Why did the maker of the Belgium Hyscore 801 go to all the trouble of tapering the barrel, so finely inlet the stock, and do the checkering that was done on a low end rifle. On the Belgium Hyscore 801 have heard the theory that it was used to train employees before they started making high end shotguns.

    I ask the same “why” question about this Falke 90. What market were they going after? The gun doesn’t seem to be a match rifle and it doesn’t seem to be a hunting gun. The Falke had to be an expensive gun, or at least, it should have been. You can tell that it was expensive to make. I guess history is full of company failures due to putting more money into a product that people were willing to pay for the item.

    David Enoch

    • David,

      Yeah, I’m puzzled, too. At the time this gun was made, I don’t believe national competitions existed for airguns. And even if they did, the shape of the stock is all wrong for that. But Webley did the same thing with their .22-caliber Osprey.

      Maybe they thought an accurate rifle would sell itself — that the market would open up to receive the new gun it didn’t realize it had wanted. I just don’t know.

      No doubt that plays into the low number of guns that were made. I’m guessing these were very hard to sell in post-war Germany/Europe, with everyone scrambling just to make a living. There is no question the German people recognize high quality and go for it every time, but in 1952 it was a little early to be selling such a luxury, I think.


  4. Thanks BB,

    You saved my 1077. The 1077 is a CO2 rifle and it developed a leak. I stood in on its butt, added several drops of pellgun oil and let it sit a day. I then put in a fresh CO2 powerlet and rapid fired it some 12-15 shots. No leaking sound and it has held CO2 for 3 days now. Thanks.

  5. What a wonderfully rare and unique part of airgun history that Falke 90 is.

    I’ve finished and refinished many gunstocks. I wouldn’t even consider touching that one.

    Since the decision has been made to refinish, if it were my gun, I would send it to Doug Phillips. I’d also send the metal to Gary Steele and have it reblued.

    There’s my two cents that no one asked for.


    • Kevin,

      When it comes to refinishing, I am anal. I like metal workers who don’t round the edges and keep the light lettering perfect. And the wood is the same.

      I think I would like a Turnbull restoration, except I can’t afford it.

      Do both these guys live up to your highest standards? I know that since you recommended them they must be good, but are they the best?

      Separate thought. I’m sort of hunting for a BSA Airsporter first variation, because of all the nice things I’ve heard about it. Any thoughts?


      • Tom,

        Doug Phillips is a true artist when it comes to repairing and refinishing stocks. He has done a few for me and I can highly recommend him. I had a gun that had the pistol grip severed during shipping and his repair, including matching the original finish and rechasing the checkering was so good that you wouldn’t see the repair unless I pointed it out to you in good light with a magnifying glass. He’s also reasonable with decent turnaround time.

        Never had Turnbull do any work for me. The aftermarket stocks that they do on old winchesters I’ve seen were very well done. Their bluing is decent. I’ve been more impressed with Glenrocks bluing.

        I was being a bit flippant when suggesting that you re-blue the metal. My inference was that since the stock was being refinished I would consider a complete restoration, since it will not be an original gun, and look into rebluing the metal.

        Not an easy decision since I’ve learned that rebluing an airgun is not like most firearms. On airguns the forks are brazed, end plugs in compression tubes are attached with adhesive or silver soldered (I think your Falke 90 end plug is pressed and pinned….which explains the typical leaking and low velocity) and brazing, adhesive, silver solder, etc. gets eaten in traditional hot bluing solution (corrosive salt, lye, etc.) which is very nasty stuff. A good bluer can ruin an airgun quickly by using his traditional hot bluing solution that has worked wonderful on the many firearms he’s reblued.

        This is turning into a book so let me wrap up this lengthy subject by saying non corrosive hot bluing solution is 5-6 times as expensive as traditional, nuetralizing the solution should be warm not the typical cold bath and whether your metal on your Falke is even a candidate depends on the current condition. If you have freckling, even slight freckling with no pitting and you pay extra for the prep work to grind the metal then buff the metal it still may not prevent this rust from returning as freckling after it’s reblued correctly. It will look better but on close inspection it’s common for the freckles to reappear since it got into the pores of the metal. “Keeping light lettering perfect” after rebluing is an art. Ideally you don’t reblue over the lettering but are forced to blend and match up to the lettering. Again depending on condition of the bluing around your numbers, letters, hallmarks, etc. rebluing over them may be required.

        I’ve never owned or shot a first variation BSA Airsporter. I too have heard glowing reports about them. I know a few guys that do own one. Do you want me to ask them if they’re interested in selling?


  6. B.B.

    Getting close to finishing the stock. Tomorrow I plan some finishing touches on sculpturing it and then start polishing it. Pics will be taken.

    Now a question on my newly-bought FWB.
    Can you tell me what are threads on its CO2 reservoir and filling adaptor (brass hexagonal with steel filter inside)? I plan to buy a new 7 liter bottle for CO2 to fill it, but I don’t know the thread.


    • I should know exactly since I have one sitting in my basement. But I don’t. I do know that Beeman used to sell an extra-cost brass adaptor that mated a standard US tank to the CO2 reservoir. Cost quite a bit of change in those days.

      I think I would take what you have to a good industrial gas supplier and just ask them to measure and fit an adapter. I know that may not be as easy for you as for folks in the USA.

      I would measure it all, but unfortunately I don’t have the tools to do it.


  7. Everyone

    Thanks, I was finally able to measure thread. Thread on rifle CO2 reservoir is metric M18x1.5 (M18 “fine 2”, M18 “standard” is 18×2.5) – the rest is not so important, as I’ll order a custom connector for CO2 bottle with extra filters.


  8. I’m taking every possible measure to ensure the safety of my surplus guns. But just supposing that one were to blow up on me, what sort of injuries result? I’m guessing that the eyes are the greatest source of concern. For that I have my $150 polycarbonate safety goggles. Triggerhand? Not much I can do about that other than shooting gloves. Otherwise, what about a ballistic helmet? Is there a danger of injuries above eye level? I’m not so much concerned about the hassle of wearing a helmet. I’ve even found a type of earmuffs connected with backwire, behind the head, so that you can wear headgear with ease. But I wouldn’t want to spend money for no reason.


    • I wonder, has there ever been a recorded incident of an air rifle tank exploding because it wasn’t inspected or replaced? If so what are the statistics? I would think I’d be hearing tanks popping all over town.

      • There are some high pressures built up. But this sounds like a special case of the Scuba technology that’s been around for awhile, and you don’t hear about that equipment exploding.

        The best price I’ve been able to find for a ballistic helmet is $175 which has considerably cooled my enthusiasm for buying one. And that’s even though I also wanted to be Darth Helmet, this character in a Star Wars spoof. I’m actually feeling a bit more confident about the surplus rifles. What set me off was an interview with Clint McKee, head of Fulton Armory, who said that you should never handload for semiauto rifles. You would think that he would know since that’s what his company makes. He had all sorts of stories about how the charger handle of an M14 could rip your hand to pieces with a slamfire and about numbers of elite shooters who had worked for years in the industry at a high level had died from various catastrophic accidents. But I’ve figured out how to keep my hand out of the way, and I will just be even more scrupulous when loading Matt61 ammo.


        • Matt61,
          The reason you don’t hear of scuba tanks exploding is because no dive shop will fill one if it’s past its inspection date. These dates are displayed very clearly on the tank itself.

          Air rifle inspection dates do not get that much attention, and are being filled by their owners, most of whom don’t even know if there is an inspection process, and the dates are not displayed anywhere.

          If exploding air rifle tanks are an issue it probably ought to be covered on this blog sometime and repeated at least once a year.


    • Matt,

      As long as you continue to shoot either factory ammunition or your own handloads, there is very little danger of your military guns blowing up. Military guns are made to higher standards (for their time) than civilian firearms of equivalent calibers. Even the so-called “third-world” nations have standards in making firearm that surpass those of the great gunmaking houses.

      What you must do is watch for the signs of danger, such as flattened primers, swollen cases and so on. When you see that, stop shooting and let a gunsmith advise you before you resume.


      • Yes, yes, the reassurances now are pouring in for me. This is all good to know. I was reflecting on McKee’s comment that a surplus rifle has 50,000 psi only inches from your eyes. No wonder it took so long to come up with that kind of power in the hands of the average soldiers which would work in all kinds of conditions. Mass producing this technology is some feat. Actually, my surplus rifles are probably laughing at me for the easy time they’re having compared to what they were designed for.

        I was also watching a documentary about the various painful experiments in military rifle technology in the 19th century. With their needle guns which needed both the needle and rubber obturator replaced frequently and various breech-loading designs that sprayed gas and flames out into the face and in one case blew the thumb off of a member of an examining committee for the British military, I’m probably in some tiny fraction of the top percent for safety when considering all of history.

        Incidentally, one of McKee’s accident examples was a fellow who didn’t bother resizing cases for his handloads for his M1A. Basic. His round exploded and so did his 20 round magazine. Glasses saved his eyes but he looked like he had a serious case of chicken pox, and he was also troubled by a flinch when shooting. I’ll steer well clear of that.


  9. Re: Falke tune it ,but don’t touch the outside beyond oiling,it has a sense of history in its appearance that I believe adds to its value. The aging and color of the stock is very interesting.

    • I’m inclined to agree with you on this, Primo. Somehow, just like my olds Mosins and Mausers, the scratches and initials try to tell a story, adding an air of mystery to the gun.


  10. BB, there is an amazing resource on the net for Falke airguns, in the form of a British-based blog devoted entirely to them:


    Be sure to check out the “gallery” and “resources” sections here, which have compiled images and information that will amaze you. As you mentioned the models 80 and 90 are exceedingly rare, and the blog is in the process of building a database of information by individual serial numbers.

    I’ve been lucky to see and handle your model 90 in Roanoke, make no mistake that it is a treasure!

    By the way, at this blog you will see links to the same author’s similarly-formatted companion blogs devoted to vintage BSA’s, Gem airguns, and vintage Dianas. All are equally rich resources for the collector and enthusiast of these wonderful classic airguns.

    • Looks good, duskwight! Looks like it will be a heavy duty gun! Do you have an idea what it will weigh when all is said and done? BTW, my wife will new traveling through Moscow on her way home next week,. Do you think it’ll be ready for her to pick up and bring home for me? Our should I come get it later….? 😉


      • Dave,

        A heavy duty indeed. Well, nobody promised it to be featherweight, it is pure benchrest one, a technology demonstrator. Mk.1 will be lighter and more refined but for now… please have mercy on your wife – this rifle is too heavy for woman’s hands 🙂 I hope production series Mk.1 will be much lighter – then we’ll talk about what tale we’ll have to invent for customs officials 😉


    • duskwight,
      Nice job! I really like how the laminate grain on the front of the forestock gives the illusion of forward movement. It adds a level of excitement to the stock. Your adjustable cheek piece looks interesting, too. I’m anxious to hear how that works out.


    • duskwight,

      Wow! You’ve made some impressive progress on that stock.

      I assume you meant to say that you’re going to finish that stock with Schaftol rather than shaftol?

      If so, here’s some things to think about that you’ve probably already thought about.

      Schaftol is a blo based product. Any type of oil based product is usually avoided when finishing laminated stocks. The primary reason is because most oil based finishes, not all oils, will cause the glues in laminates to break down. The other reason is drying time. The open ended portion of a laminate stock is very porous, absorbs much more finish and requires much more drying time between coats. Adding additional coats too quickly ends up with a mess since the underlayer was not allowed to dry properly.

      This is the reason why most commercial laminate stocks and those that are professionally refinished are finished with surface finishes like urethane or lacquers. Because they don’t want a penetrating or built up oil finish to pervade the lamination and make it DE-LAMINATE.

      The best finish (final look and longevity) I’ve seen on laminate stocks started with two sealing/seizing coats of Fresh “DeWaxxed” Super Blonde Shellac. This is followed by 3 coats of Good water based poly. Dries crystal clear and is a VERY hard finish. If you don’t like the gloss you can knock it down with rottenston, stock rubbing compound or my cheap favorite mothers mag diluted with water and applied evenly with a felt pad.

      Please forgive me for sticking my nose in where it wasn’t invited but would hate to see all your terrific work on that custom stock ruined by the wrong finish.


      • kevin

        Thanks, I didn’t know that and you stopped me right in time. Heh, there are still some tricks to learn for me 🙂 I’ll check the effect on some spare piece of my plywood laminate and see what effect Schaftol will have on it.
        Blo – is that boiled linseed oil?


        • duskwight,

          You’re absolutely correct. BLO is short for Boiled Linseed Oil. Sorry, should have spelled it out. I’m trying to break my horrible habit of abbreviations LOL!

          After you apply several coats of Schaftol on test scrap of laminated plywood let it sit for a year since the oil may take that long to soften the glues. To determine if the oil(s)? in Schaftol will soften the glues your test scrap, you can speed up the process by adding subsequent coats quickly (don’t allow it to completely dry). If I put all that work into making a stock I would wait a year though.

          In the fiasco of the oil finish deterioration and delamination on the early Gary Cane custom laminate stocks (especially the green ones) it took about a year for this mistake to show up.


          • kevin,

            On the other hand, my stock is not exactly laminate 🙂 It is plywood glued together with oil- and fuel-resistant epoxy. Thing that scares me is plywood’s own glue.


            • duskwight,

              Here is the USA, any time two or more pieces of wood is glued together it’s considered a laminate.

              Doubt if your “oil- and fuel-resistant epoxy” would be affected by an oil based finish but I am also worried about the glues in the plywood.

              Would hate to see that terrific stock of yours ruined.


              • kevin

                Oh, c’mon, ruined stock is nothing but experience. If it goes down – all right, that’ll be a blow to my ego and my wallet, but nothing more. I’ll make another one – even faster and better than before, because now I know more and have more skill.
                The first one was ruined even before it was glued together – remember that “bad epoxy” story?


                • duskwight,

                  Agreed. Failures/mistakes can be learning experiences.

                  But, for most of us, time, money and ego (usually LOL!) have limits.

                  BTW, these are the key reasons I read this blog.


                  • kevin

                    All right, man, you scared me enough as my friends say nothing certain on Schaftol+plywood laminate 🙂 Tomorrow I’ll buy two of bottles of dewaxed liquid shellac from an art store and learn how to use this stuff.


                    • duskwight,

                      DeWaxxed Super Blonde Shellac. “Dewaxxed” is key. “Super Blonde” is important since regular shellac will yellow over time.


  11. I’ve got a Falke 90 with serial number 39 (duplicate?). Im new in old airrifles (not so good in english:-), my dad gave me the falke.

    i bought pallets and must say it is a strong rifle. Shoots very good.

    advice is welcome.



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