by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Part 1
Part 2
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Today’s report is the continuation of a guest blog from reader HiveSeeker about his Crosman 2400KT.
If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me.
Over to you, HiveSeeker.
The 2400KT CO2 carbine is available exclusively from the Crosman Custom Shop.
This report covers:
• Shots per fill: .177 caliber
• Shots per fill: .22 caliber
• Mystified!
• A slow start
As we begin Part 3, I’m reminding my fellow blog readers that we’re looking at the Crosman 2400KT CO2 carbine from the Crosman Custom Shop in .177 and .22, and both are in their natural state — straight out of the box with no modifications.
Shots per fill: .177 caliber
We’ll start by looking at the number of shots per fill. Initially, I didn’t have any of B.B.’s favorite .177 boxed Crosman Premier Lights, so for testing Sassy Sandy’s .177, I chose the ballistically similar Crosman Premier Hollowpoint, which weighs exactly the same — 7.9 grains — and is also rather domed.
The Sassy Sandy is a target carbine in .177 with 10.10-inch Lothar Walther choked match barrel, black custom shoulder stock, black trigger shoe and black muzzlebrake. The scope shown here is a CV Life 3-9×40. The cost of this setup was $142.68, not including scope and rings.
Performance should be almost identical (as we’ll later see with the Crosman pellets in .22). With this pellet, I got 40 good shots with the majority over 500 fps. Here’s my velocity table:
Note that the average velocity varied by only 3 fps across the first 20 shots, and by only 9 fps across the first 30 shots. Smooth! Now, let’s take a look at the velocity graph:
Here’s a nice, level velocity line. The .177 2400KT is one smooth operator in CO2 regulation and pellet velocity. Velocity begins to drop at about shot 28 (marked by the arrow), drops below 500 fps at shot 35, and declines below 400 fps after shot 40.
You can actually see what the velocity table has already told us — velocity control with this pistol is very even. This is something you really want in a target pistol. Velocity began to drop significantly at shot 28, sinking below 500 fps around shot 35. However, a great deal of subsequent shooting during accuracy testing showed that I could consistently expect 40 accurate shots before having to change to a fresh CO2 cartridge. Beyond 40 shots, velocity began to fall toward the 400 fps mark, and accuracy declined almost immediately. I stopped this test at shot 48, when velocity dipped below 300 fps, because I didn’t want to risk a pellet jammed in the barrel.
Forty shots per carttridge is right on the money for what Crosman advertises for the 2400KT’s .177 sibling, the Crosman 2300T. However, B.B. actually got 60 shots per cartridge out of that pistol when he tested it. His velocity with the 2300T averaged 520 fps for 7.9-grain Crosman Premier Lights. My testing with the same pellet in Sassy Sandy’s gun yielded an average 569 fps, so that extra 50 fps in velocity is where those extra 20 shots are probably going.
When B.B. reported on the 2400KT’s other .177 sibling, the high-end Crosman 2300S, he got an amazing 80 shots per CO2 cartridge. This was, again, higher than Crosman’s published specs on the gun — in this case 60 shots per cartridge. This pistol includes an adjustable power knob that controls the velocity. At the highest power setting, B.B. averaged 484 fps with 7.9-grain Crosman Copperhead pointed pellets [Editor’s note: I cannot find this pellet anywhere, so I linked you to the 7.9-grain Crosman pointed pellets], 85 fps less than my 569 fps in the 2400KT with the identical-weight Crosman Premier Light. B.B. got his 80 shots while testing the pistol on both low and high power settings, but he believed that performance would be similar to the 2300T — 60 shots per fill — if the velocity adjustment were left on high power all the time.
In summary, expect 40 good shots per fill from the Crosman 2400KT in .177. This is lower than the 60 shots per fill B.B. says you can expect from the 2300T and 2300S, but it comes with a gain of 50 to 85 fps in velocity.
Shots per fill: .22 caliber
For testing shots per fill for my HiveSeeker .22, I selected the 14.3-grain Domed Magnum from the Benjamin Ultimate Hunting Pellet Assortment. B.B. informs me that this pellet is identical to his favored boxed .22-caliber Crosman Premiers.
The HiveSeeker is a light-duty small game hunter .22 with 18-inch barrel, simulated carbon fiber custom shoulder stock, black trigger shoe, and black muzzle brake. The scope is a Leapers UTG 4-16×40. The cost of this setup was $123.57, not including scope and rings.
The Crosman Premier Ultra Magnum in the 500-pellet tin is also physically identical. However, the Benjamin Domed Magnum [from the box] specifically advertises single die production — like B.B.’s Crosman Premiers — so this was the pellet I chose as most comparable for the extensive shots-per-fill test. With the Domed Magnum, I got 30 good shots over 500 fps. Here’s my velocity table:
Velocity is more variable than we saw in .177, with average velocity varying by 5 fps across the first 20 shots, and 23 fps across the first 30 shots. However, in this case averages can be deceptive, because highs and lows can cancel each other out. When we take a look at the velocity graph, we see the whole story:
This jagged velocity line tells us that CO2 regulation and pellet velocity are less consistent for the 2400KT in .22. Velocity begins to drop at about shot 25 (marked by the arrow), drops below 500 fps after shot 30, and declines below 400 fps as we approach shot 40.
Velocity for the 2400KT is much more variable in .22. A lot of ups and downs give an average that lands in the middle, but which doesn’t really represent all those peaks and valleys. Velocity began declining sharply at shot 25, sank below 500 fps at shot 30 — which proved to be the practical accuracy limit for this gun. They fell below 400 fps just before shot 40. Previous testing had already told me that accuracy dropped sharply after shot 30, so I pushed this test to shot 40 and simply stopped — there was no practical reason to take things any further.
When B.B. tested the 2400KT’s cousin, the .22-caliber Crosman 2240, he estimated most shooters would get 45 to 60 usable shots. He recorded an average velocity of 448 fps for the 2240 using his boxed 14.3-grain Crosman Premiers. The 2400KT trumps that at an average 573 fps — 125 fps faster! — with the equivalent Benjamin Domed Magnum, but at the cost of about half the usable shots.
When B.B. reported on the Crosman 2250XE, which is also a .22 CO2 carbine with an 18” barrel, he found exactly what I did with the 2400KT — up to 30 usable shots per CO2 cartridge. He got 546 fps with his boxed 14.3-grain Crosman Premiers, which approaches the 573 fps I got with the equivalent Benjamin Domed Magnum in the 2400KT. The 2250 (affectionately nicknamed the Ratcatcher by shooters) is no longer offered by the Crosman Custom Shop, but I think my HiveSeeker and the 2250XE are almost the same gun — except for that unique skeleton wood stock!
In summary, expect 30 accurate shots per fill from the Crosman 2400KT in .22. This is half the shots — at a 125 fps velocity gain — compared to the Crosman 2240, but very similar in both shot count and performance to the Crosman Outdoorsman 2250XE.
Mystified!
Those of you who got your coffee this morning have already noticed several very interesting things about these shots-per-fill graphs and the few velocities we’ve mentioned so far. First of all, both the .177 and .22 versions of the 2400KT have the same velocities. That can’t be right! Second, while 570 fps with a typical lead pellet isn’t too interesting for a .177, it is for a .22 non-PCP pistol! And those of you who had two cups of coffee this morning have noticed a smaller detail — for both calibers, velocity starts a little low before leveling off at a higher velocity as the shot count increases. Let’s knock out this last detail first.
A slow start
As I began my velocity testing of the 2400KT, I noticed that many pellets started with a very low initial velocity that increased significantly over the next few shots and then leveled out. This was truer of my wife’s .177 Sassy Sandy than it was for my .22 HiveSeeker. A few low velocities at the beginning of a 10-shot string can reduce a pellet’s velocity average, which will not be a good representation of that pellet’s overall performance. Take another look at those .177 and .22 velocity tables — this is why shots 1-10 average slower than shots 11-20 for both calibers.
Looking at my velocity graphs, I decided that to try to account for this, but still be accurate, I would start counting velocities at the point where two consecutive shots fell within 10 f.p.s. of each other. For many of the pellets I tested, this resulted in my discarding the first 2 or 3 shots, and taking my actual velocity average from around shots 4 through 13. This gives a much more representative picture of how each pellet is really performing once the pistol gets warmed up. I also noticed that velocity would sometimes continue to increase slightly throughout that 10-shot string, so the average velocities I present here may actually be slightly under-reported.
Velocity starts low but increases rapidly, leveling off at shot 4. In this example, only the shots in the blue shaded area (shots 4 to 13) were used to calculate the pellet’s average velocity. You can see that those shots are much more representative of the pellet’s overall performance across the entire 10-shot string than the shots in the white area of the graph. This data is from the 7.9-grain .177 Crosman Premier Hollow Point Hunting Pellet.
Again, velocity begins low but rises rapidly. It levels out at shot 4, and only shots 4 to 13 (in the blue shaded area of the graph) are used to calculate the 10-string average velocity. You can also see in this example that velocity continues to rise slightly across the entire string, so my average velocities might be slightly under-reported. Data is from the 14.3-grain Benjamin Discovery Hollow Point from the 500-pellet tin.
From these graphs, I’m confident that the velocities I’ll be reporting in Part 4 will be much more representative of how the Crosman 2400KT really performs. We’ll also try to solve our little mystery and then decide exactly how interesting those .22 velocities really are!
Wow! Great information so far, and a beautiful pair of guns!
I’m really looking forward to seeing how all of this settles out!
When you did your testing, did you check any other pellets to determine the most accurate pellets for your carbines?
I don’t see it mentioned so far, but didn’t get into all of the comments on previous parts of the series, what did you do to prep the guns when they arrived? Did you clean the bores, tighten up loose screws, etc? Or did you just go with them as they arrived right out of the box?
Thanks! ~QJ
Qjay,
No mods whatsoever–I don’t mod (yet) and neither does the average shooter, so I’m looking at what these do straight out of the box. I shot some Beeman Quick Cleaning Pellets through both and that was it. Nothing seems loose but I’ll check all screws, though I did have reason to check just a couple and they were snug. I tested a wide assortment of pellets for velocity and accuracy, so please stay tuned.
I modified three 2240’s and two 2300″s all in .22 cal. I added a hammer power spring,
40% air valve between bbl. and tube,a com pleat valve,spring system.I have gotten a
velocity of 535/580fps using Crosman 9.5 gr. pointed pells from a 2240 7″ bbl.With the 14″
bbl. I got a low of 600 fps to a high of 640/660 fps.
I used two chronographs both with an infra red lighting system and all testing was done indoors
with only a few fps difference between the two.I must add, That only with all of the mods I have
added above can this be possible.I also have a 2300 with a 24″ bbl. but I only got a 25/35 fps
increase in fps.I also added a steel breech for the 2240’s the 2300’s come with one
at the custom shop web site also,Get a longer stem that pushes the pellet a little deeper in
the bbl.Now here is the trade off in shots that you get with all these mods.I get about 15
full power shots and the drop off by shot 20 is so high, I change the co2.
I know a lot of people will say that’s too much of a trade off for the extra power, And I
will say this,I do not use the modified guns for target shooting. I take them hunting with me
along with my hunting rifles as a quiet small game weapon that won’t spook bigger game
when I shoot them.I aso would like to say it was a lot of fun customizing those guns right
down to the polished bbls. and tubes, larger cocking handle etc.
I kept a few of the Crosman’s stock so I can compare the difference as a reference point
when I do more mods.The average cost in addition to the cost of the gun is about $200.00
for the parts if you do a 100% change over but for about $50.00 just getting the power
hammer spring and bbl. valve a 40% increase in power is possible.
All of the mods and parts are availible from on line suppliers.
Nonewjerseymike,
We’ll be taking a closer look at B.B.’s 2240 conversion to air for comparison, but I’m staying mum until then! I’m sure you’ll have more to add, soon!
Howdy HiveSeeker, Atta boy, very well done!
Gunner, figured I’d continue our T-Rex happy dance thread over here. Now you know. I have a Harley logo shirt that sez: If I have to explain, you wouldn’t understand. Being raised by wolves & havin’ a very limited vocabulary, all I can say: if shootin’ a T-Rex doesn’t have ya howlin’ at the moon, then ya need ta put the gun down, walk away & take up knitting or crossword puzzles, Spanky. Keeping in mind that most of “The Gang” here have forgotten more about shootin’ than I’ll ever know, I can only describe shootin’ mine as, when the shots don’t group the way I want them to, I KNOW it’s me & I can start the process of figuring out what I did wrong. Still chasin’ that elusive consistent .250 @ 23 yards group. Managed a .266 one time, but usually in the +.300’s. What I’m fightin’ now is I’ll punch 3 or 4 into the same hole then next shot I blow the follow through cuz I wanna see where the pellet hit & shor’nuff thar she blows, opened ‘er wide up. Cool part is I know it ain’t the pellets, T-Rex, scope, the color socks I’m wearin’ or if I forgot my Roy Rogers lil’ buckaroo lucky underwear. Nope, it’s a cleavage problem i.e. the boob on the butt end of the gun. Will hit my goal of 3 outa 5 sub .250’s with more perfect practice but just like the old days, ya wanna race? Again, congratz buddy! Have a great weekend, ya’ll. Shoot/ride safe
Beaz
Beaz
You know I like to race. And I’m going to shoot the heck out of that T-Rex tomorrow. And thanks again.
But you got to pop in more often here. You know we need a bit of excitement around the place. All that technical stuff is making the ole brain hurt.
And you have a good weekend too. And don’t forget to write once in a while.
Good data Hiveseeker.
I myself would call it 25 usable shots to keep the gun hitting consistent.
And I do like that carbon fiber stock.
Gunfun1,
With the recent cooler weather (though I’m south of the snow zone!) I’m finding I’m only getting 35 accurate shots with the .177 at 75-80 degrees, though there may be another reason for that I’m checking. The .22 does not seem as affected and I still get 30 accurate shots from it.
Hiveseeker
I’m thinking barrel legnth.
That will definitely help with velocity. And we’ll be taking a close look at barrel length, too!
The weather was my guess on bbs extra shots, has in a very warm area, not sure where you are but elevation might play too. Great information!
About the same climate conditions as B.B. His sticking with the same basic pellets over the years really helps in making some valid, level-playing-field comparisons.
GF1,
You couldn’t wait for a walnut stock? You couldn’t wait?! You have waited your entire life to reach this point in time and you could not wait two more weeks?! I hope you never see one with a walnut stock in person. I have. I have to wait however long it takes. You just think that thing is pretty. Why do you think I say things like I will have to wear gloves to shoot it?
I’m just bustin’ your chops man. They are beautiful air rifles, in both form and function.
After a bit you will likely notice the rest of your collection is going to start getting dusty. Then you will start thinking like me. Yes, I do wish I lived near someone who has a massive collection of airguns that I could play with some, but own a closet full myself, naw.
You keep hearing me ranting and raving about my 1906 BSA. If I did not own another airgun the rest of my life, I would be content. This thing is about as pure form follows function as it gets.
All of my other airguns have much nicer triggers in some respects. The trigger on this thing is a single stage and is real heavy, but their is no creep whatsoever and it breaks so clean.
As far as accuracy goes, I have three 10 meter rifles and a 10 meter pistol right now. However, they do not shoot that much better than this air rifle does. This air rifle was designed for 10 yard competition shooting and it does a pretty good job of it. If I could put a peep on it, I could probably do better, but the pack of feral soda cans running around here don’t stand a chance.
The stock on this thing is tiger striped walnut. It has seen better days, but it still looks pretty good. The bluing on the steel is just about all gone and has been replaced by a nice patina. This thing is over 108 year old, what do you expect?
See?! I’m ranting and raving about it again. I have to almost force myself to shoot my other airguns. When I have the time to play with one of them, I invariably grab this one. I can wait.
I hope you get as much pleasure from your T-Rex as I get from my BSA.
RR
I’m getting ready to go shoot the TX here in a minute. I do see that its in a different category of guns.
And about the walnut stock. What is funny about that is a while back everybody had the walnut and no body had the beech. But I didn’t have the money so I couldn’t get the walnut stock.
So I had the money right now and if I would wait my luck something else would come up to get the money. Or I would want something else it get it. Which I have in the past. And then it not being 100% what I wanted. So the the TX would still be floating around in the back of my mind. And I decided this time to reach out and grab it before it floated away again.
And you know all the guns I have been through in the past. Well there is a reason I have the ones I got now. First off they all are overly accurate guns. Others have went because of that. The synthetic stock Mrods I have because I know how easy they are to work on,the tuneabilty of the design and all the modding that can be done to them. And the 54 Air King has its features that make me keep it. The HW50s is just a fun little gun to shoot because of its weight and design.
That is the airguns that are keepers to me and the now 5 guns with the addition of the TX. I have a few others but those are going to stay.
I think the next gun I get will get will be a big bore. And that .30 cal. Hatsan that is a proto type right now really interests me. I like it because its shooting a readily available JSB pellet. And the A44QE I had was a nice guns far as the action goes so if they do release that .30 and .35 cal. Hatsan QE I hope it is available at least in a beech stock not just the synthetic. And if they offfer walnut all the better.
So yes RR I’m starting to get my airguns narrowed down. I just wonder if there was a reason that I didn’t get the TX first. If I did I might not of exsperianced all these other airguns that I have owned.
Did I mention I’m happy that I finally got a TX. 🙂
Gotta drive a few Vegas/Pintos to really appreciate a Vette. Or a few metrics to “feel” a H-D.
Beaz
This is true but darn them V-8 Vegas are sure fun.
Now to me, the thought of a V8 in a Vega is scary. That would be like putting the other half of the V6 engine in the Metro I had and then throwing a turbocharger on it just for a few more grins.
RR
I think your on to something. 😉
By metrics, I assume you are referring to what many, including myself, call rice rockets. Having owned several in the past and now owning an H-D, I can authoritatively say you used the correct term when you said ‘feel’. Although H-D has indeed made great strides in quality in recent years, thankfully, they are still not up to other offerings. H-D is an ego thing.
Ridgey, you, sir, are a wicked, wicked man. Openin’ a can ‘o worms that’ ll get me up on my soapbox, runnin’ my mouth which will most assuredly lead to Ms. Edith havin’ ta bust me & I’ll spend Thanksgiving at the kids table…again. I’m onta ya pal, ain’t gonna play!?! All seriousness aside, I agree 100%. I.M.O. what ya ride don’t mean squat, why ya ride is all that matters. Have buds that ride metric (keepin’ it pc, Ms. Edith) or don’t even ride at all, who are more “biker” than the majority of wannabes (ego) these days. That’s where the OCC weinermobiles were targeted. Most of “the Gang” on here are more “biker” whether they are up on 2 or not, than any Wild Hog. Now quit pokin’ me & pass the gravy, please. Shoot/ride safe.
Beaz
No, no, no, I think you have misunderstood me. H-D has improved quality over the years. Otherwise my 2006 Night Train would not have over 70,000 miles on it. Could I have some stuffing with that gravy?
Well, I am off until December. I am hoping to work on those FWB300s and finish up with them. Then I am going to have me an airgun yard sale. I may even throw my Edge in the pile. The goal being to raise the money for a TX200 MKIII with walnut stock in .22, which PA has in stock.
Between the BSA, the TX and the Izzy, I will likely be quite content for quite some time. I will still have the Talon SS to tinker with also. Perhaps in a year or two I will decide which top shelf PCP I want to add to my “collection”. Who knows, Crosman may even decide to build one.
RR
Well you have to let us blog readers know first when you decide to do the yard sale.
And yes when I ordered my TX from PA they said they would have the walnut stock ones in about a week and a half. But the reason I didn’t pre-order one is because I did something similar in the past. I done had my money tied up in that order then it kept pushing back the receiving date. So I didn’t want to play the waiting game with the TX.
And usually when I have it in my mind to get something I want it now so I can get it and use it. I’m not a very good waiter.
But I will tell you the truth I’m glad I hit the buy button on this beech model. 110% or more satisfied with the TX200.
I know how that is, leave the cobbler with nice boots, a half size too big, cause they didn’t have the ones you wanted in your size, but you came for nice boots and ain’t leaving without nice boots!
RDNA
You always got a way with words.
But yeah. Something just like that. 🙂
I literally do it all the time, with all sorts of things. Probably about 50% of the time it works out and I get something better then I came for, but the other half Im kicking myself. I don’t think this applies to the tx though, in 20 years that stock could be beat to dung and somebody’ll still be happy to have boughten it!, far.as I’ve heard. You’ll have to give some first hand rubs and raves.
RDNA
I was talking to buldawg below about that Hatsan stock your refinishing.
I think I know I want done. Not going to touch the 54.
I may get one of those fancy stocks for my Mrod like buldawg has on his Mrod then have you refinish and color highlight it.
What do you think.
I think that’d be a pleasure and an honor. I was just earlier going to send you s pic of how holographic the 95 got after the last sanding… send it in the morning.
The dimensions are hard to appreciate in a picture though.
RDNA
Ok then I’m going to start looking for a laminated pistol grip stock for my .177 synthetic stock Mrod.
The problem is going to be that nothing or not much will be available as a replacement. They changed the trigger location.
So I will have to see what I can find.
Gunfun
Great 3rd report on the 2400 carbines Hiveseeker and they are getting good shot counts also out of a CO2 cartridge in stock form. I have just built a 2240/2400 style hipac conversation for a friend and have just started my tuning of it and only got one shot string on it yet. It is a 2240 with single hipac cylinder in place of the CO2 cartridge with a slightly modified valve by opening up the transfer port to 11/64″ and replacing the orange seal at the front of there valve with a hard delrin seal for the hi pac to seal against and put a steel breech with a 10.1 inch lothar walthar barrel on it. My first string on a 2200 psi fill was a low of 550fps, a high of 618 fps, an average of 595 fps with a ES of 69 fps and a SD of 19 with a 23 shot string back to 550fps. I have some more tuning to do but I am shooting for an average of around 600 fps with at least a 20 count shot string.
So have you put the TX down yet to eat or go to the bathroom or have you been to busy shooing up anything you find that needs holes put in it. How is the accuracy at this point in your relationship with it and its got to be keeping a smile so wide on your face you got icicles hanging off your teeth.
I am glad you finally got the dream gun you have wanted for a while now and had most of the day to enjoy it. I got done with Loren’s 2240 Later than I thought I would due to some minor fitment issue of the bolt in the breech but it has turned out very nice and just need to get it tuned to a closer shot string for him ( see above for first string results ) but I did not get any timer on my Mrod today. So hopefully tomorrow I can finish the tuning on the 2240 and then get my Mrod sighted in at 35 yards out back and then settle in for some practice time for the matches on the 6th of December.
Hope you had a good day shooting and have it sighted in now and can punch single holes in the duct taped phone books you use for targets.
BD
buldawg
Its definatly a shooter. I can still smell it burning some oil off here and there when I shoot. When that happens the shot sounds a little louder and the shot goes high.
I got a bit over 250 shots through it right now. So I think a little more breaking in yet. When I stop smelling the oil it will be pretty close then. But I’m keeping them with in a inch at 50 yards right now even with the shots that shoot hot. We’ll have to see how it goes but there trying to stack right now.
So you got some time on the 2240 conversions. Get to shoot any group’s with it yet.
So no more time on the Mrod shooting yet. You got that slow leak took’n care of now.
buldawg
Forgot didn’t get to the center block and cylinders on the shoebox yet. Going to do that in a bit. I hope that goes good
I was hav’n to much fun with the T-Rex today. 🙂
Gunfun
Glad to hear its a shooter and once it gets all the oil burned out you will be stacking pellets on top of each other.
Yea I got the 2240 hipac pistol for Loren together but it fought me a little with the bolt and breech as the hole must have been off just slightly from being in alignment with the slot in the breech the because when you tightened the bolt knob down it would bind in the breech slot some so I had to smooth out some surfaces to get it all moving smoothly. It only allowed me enough time to do one string of shot over the chrony and it was right in the 600 fps range with 8.44 JSB with 23 shots. so just a little more fine tuning on the hammer spring to close the spread y up some and it should be good. I cannot really shoot any groups with the pistol as Loren is going to put his own scope on it so I will let him do the sighting in on it.
No shooting time on my Mrod yet though but it is supposed to be nice tomorrow and I am gone to shoot it all of tomorrow to get it sighted at 35 yards and then just get more comfortable with it as it is a one hole shooter for sure as long as I can do my part and that is where I need the practice.
BD
buldawg
Your not going to believe this.
RDNA ran into this with a steel breech I sent him. He had the same problem.
You know how the threaded hole in the bolt goes all the way through. Some of them holes must be drilled true to the centerline of the bolt. And some not. And I even think the location could be off front to back.
I went back and checked 4 other steel breeches and bolts I had. Some would work on either side and the others I had to rotate the bolt a180 degrees to keep it from binding.
I’m thinking that the people assembling the bolt in the breech know to look for that. That’s why we always see a smooth bolt action.
And that could be exactly why the valve don’t line up the transfer port hole in the tube on some guns. That could be why they have that side hole a little bigger in the main tube for the valve placement.
I know that the enlarged side holes is not the best idea but maybe that’s how they are gaining some assembly tolerance.
You know what happens at the new car assembly plant gets behind on a assembly operation. They are seeing dollar signs melting away.
Either way we get to learn how to fix their designs.
(Again)
Gunfun
The problem was not entirely crosmans fault as the bolt I was fitting was the stainless bolt that came out of the gun I got from you and I was putting it ion the new breech I just got so I never tried the original bolt that came with the breech, although I did try the bolt arm from the new breech and it would not thread into your bolt. I also rotated your bolt 180 degrees to find which way had the least amount of bind on the arm and then took the arm and put it in my drill press and polished the stem just enough to allow for smooth operation. I used your bolt because it has a extended probe nose and it is stainless steel also will wear better and longer.
I also found out on my Avanti barreled 2240 that my mod of enlarging the transfer port in the valves and barrels to 11/64″ is good for a 22 caliber, but not so good for a 177 cal as 11/64″ is so close to .177 in dia that on my Avanti barreled 2240 to get the pellet to load smoothly without having to force it into the barrel you had to hold the gun barrel down and shake it side to side a little and it would fall into the barrel and the bolt would close easily.
I thought it was because I had not put enough chamfer on the leade in the barrel. Since I took it apart to send that tube and valve assy to Lloyd to have the work done for me. I played with loading a pellet in to the barrel with the breech and barrel still secured together by the set screw on top of the breech. What I found was the leade in the barrel was fine but the transfer port was large enough that the nose of the pellet would fall part way into the port and catch on the nose of the pellet when trying to close the bolt and load the pellet. By shaking the gun it allowed the pellet to fall past the port and allow the bolt to close easily. So I took a metal crosman transfer port bushing and turned it around backwards from the way it is supposed to be installed in the gun and fitted the short end into the enlarged transfer port of the barrel and filled it to fit the round profile of the leade in the barrel and then placed the bushing on a round file that would keep it from spinning on the file while I checked the file in my drill press and sanded the long portion that has the chamfer on it that fits the barrel port and sanded it down to lust over the 3/16″ diameter of the ice maker tubing I use for my port seals on the 22 cal guns so that the l could slip it in to the ice maker line with a snug fit but not cause the tubing to bulge at all and used it to close up the port in the barrel so that the pellet does not try top fall into the barrel port when loading.
I learned that you have to make concessions when working between one caliber and another as 177 caliber is not a good idea to open the port in the barrel but only open the port in the valve instead, you still get a slight choke point at the barrel bushing but the pellet does not become damaged when loading into the barrel. Just one more lesson learned in the world of modifying air guns I am glad I learned it on one opf my guns rather than a customers.
BD
buldawg
I was trying to think if I put a different bolt in that breech. I didn’t.
That breech and bolt came off of a .177 cal. Discovery I had. The bolts are different on them than the steel breech that you can by separately as a assembly. The small flat head screw is under the bolt on the Disco breech and the 2240 factory plastic breech along with the 1377 and others has that small flat head screw closer to the barrel. Along with that add on steel breech you can buy separately. And the part you hold on to to cock the bolt is shorter on the Disco breech verses the add on breech.
I forgot about those differences. But I do know some of the main tubes I have seen have both hole locations drilled and tapped for either breech.
Gunfun
The 1377 breech I got had the short bolt handle and bolt probe nose versus the long stainless handle and bolt probe nose that was on your 2240 and I sent you the pic of the 22 caliber bolt that I milled down to turn into a long extended probe bolt and handle of brass for going back in your 2240 when I get the tubes made.
I also noticed on the breech your gun had did have the breech hold down screw in the rear of the loading trough versus the forward mounting location of the replacement breech assy you buy from crosman. I prefer the forward mounting screw location as I feel it applies better downward force to the breech seal than does the rear mounted screw location and I am actually going to drill your breech to accept the forward screw location instead of using the rear one of which you did not have a screw in as the tubes have both holes in them but only the front hole is tapped for the 4-48 thread screw and it is easier to drill the breech and spot face it for the screw location than to find a 4-48 pitch tap and cheaper as well.
The three 2240 tubes have both holes in the tubes but only the front hole is tapped for a screw so it is just my preference to use the front screw hole.
But it all went well and Lorens gun is together and just needs some fine tuning and him to decide if he wants a front sight or small muzzle brake on the barrel end as there is not much room for a brake that would not interfere with the fill coupler so it most likely will be just a front sight.
BD
buldawg
I like the front hole location better also.
It makes it easier to get the breech off for barrel changes that’s for sure.
And if I use the Disco breech I usually don’t use that flat head screw anyway. That’s why I use one barrel band close to the breech and another barrel band closer towards the muzzle end. Ain’t had no transfer port leak yet that way.
GUnfun
Go to bottom as there ids no reply her anymore .
BD
I just got a tap and die set from a friend that has itty bitty taps, if you need it. Especiallyiif its something came be found and you guys will use. And I just freaking mailed that!!!
Thanks, Buldawg76 and crew.
I’ll be steering clear of a lot of shop talk on this gun, since one of my goals is to evaluate the stock gun for the “average” shooter–who does not mod. I’m still in that camp, though we will get into a little mod comparison later and a lot of it sounds intriguing.
HiveSeeker
I understand you are reporting on stock as received from crosman shop guns and I am interested to know there capabilities right out of the box and fully expect to see what they do and how they perform as stock guns before you decide to mod them if you so chose to do so.
I was merely letting you know some cheap and easy to perform mods that give big gains in the performance of these jewels so that if you do decide to mod them at all you will have some info to draw from.
Again keep up the great work and I have a 18 incher just like yours only not in carbon fiber look and love the gun, it started out as a 2289, then morphed into a 2240 hipac and is now going back to a 2289 again as I have made a deal for one of my 2240 to be made into a target match pistol for a friend in exchange for a Mrod that was the next gun on my wish list so it has been a win.win situation.
BD
Hiveseeker
That’s fine but I’m sure that there is a lot of people that would like to know all aspect about the guns.
How do they say that. A informed shopper is a smart shopper.
buldawg76 and Gunfun1,
You’re both right, of course, and the interest in modding these Crosman CO2 pistols has been obvious from previous blogs. Hang tight–you’ll have more to add soon, though I’ll be interested in stock (unmodded) velocities in particular. I’ll say thanks in advance!
I’m with ya there Hiveseeker, These guns already come with the top 2 mods for power and reliabilty and Co2’s not all that bad, once it warms back up. I plan to use bulk-filling as training for handling HPA.
Howdy Ridgey, Think I currently hold the record for waitin’. Southpaw versions are only available in Walnut. AA was havin’ a tough time gettin’ “normal” stocks from their supplier, let alone lefties (Think BHO BHO the Clown, part deux) so I waited 6+ months from order to happy dance for mine. Have a great weekend. Shoot/ride safe.
Beaz
Hey Beazer,
I’m a Southpaw myself, but I shoot right handed. That is the way that my Grand Daddy and my Daddy taught me and it just feels real awkward to me when I try left handed. I even shoot a bow right handed.
Hey I’m left handed too. But I shoot right handed. Rifle and bow.
Im right handed, lefty with a bow but to me lefty on a bow feels like right hand. Shoot a slingshot right handed though. Too much cross talk between the brain lobes, I think.
RDNA
I do a sling shot right handed too.
Have not fooled with one of those things in years. I also use a sling shot right handed, but I use a sling left handed.
I hold the bow or slingshot with my left and draw with my right. What’s that?
Reb
To me that’s right handed. You don’t hold the bow over to your left eye when you hold that way. Do ya?
Gunfun,
Ya know you could be a bad boy and just order a walnut TX and just return the beech one when you get the new one. :^)
Enjoy your new baby and if you shoot it often you will ding up the stock. Just found the first minor one on my 460 Magnum but the gun still shoots amazingly well so that’s life. Hope you enjoy the new TX as much as I have enjoyed my 460 Magnum so far. And may you find those .25″ groups that have eluded Beazer so far.LOL
David
Dave
Your not gonna believe this. My 54 Air King is around 6 years old. And my HW50s is knick free. They both look like they just came out of the box. Well of course my TX200 also.
Hows that saying go… Knock on wood. 🙂
And no I could never send it back. That would be like getting a puppy I always wanted and sending it back because it wasn’t the exact color I wanted.
That baby is mine. And I haven’t decided yet if I will let anybody shoot it. Now that’s terrible ain’t it. 🙂
Gunfun,
Just got 4 for 4 outta the Regal on my2.25″ rimfire spinner, but the trigger’s still a little long and I’ve got the screw all the way down. It rocks ’em a little harder than the 392. I’ll try to shoot some groups by the weekend but the shoulder’s still tender so give me a few days.
I really wanted to get some mounts today for that other scope, tried 2 angles that both dead-ended. Gotta get by the Post office tomorrow and it’s only 2 blocks down Main street from one place to get ’em.
Reb
Reb
Hopefully you get it setup the way you want it pretty soon so you can shoot it.
He could be a good boy and order the TX in .22 with a walnut stock and have it drop shipped to me.
RR
You know that guy that wears that red outfit. They say he’s always listing and watching. And you know its that time of the year.
The question is have you been bad or good. 😉
Yeah, I know the dude in the red suit and I have been very good. Unfortunately, I do not think his elves will be able to get one ready in time for this run. I figured I would have better luck if I asked you to send me one.
I guess that from your suggestion, you are not going to do it either. Oh well, I tried.
RR
Nope not me. All out of that money stuff after the T-Rex.
But don’t underestimate the power of that little chubby dude in the red suit. I here he can do amazing things. 🙂
Scot,
Thanks for expanding my knowledge and thanks for that link. I have not had the opportunity to read it thoroughly, but it looks to be interesting.
Very good reading.
I have both calibers also, and the .22 is my go to back yard fun gun.
The shot count mystery between you and B.B.’s test will probably come down to temperature, I get more shots, and higher velocities in the summer..
ThNks for the write up.
I’m finding an inverse relationship between shot count and velocity in comparing other CO2 guns–when one goes up, the other comes down, which makes sense. The closest matching gun to the 2400KT in .22 I’ve come across is the Crosman 2250XE, and the velocity difference we’ll see there is very small.
B.B. , I have a question, from the archives.
A few YEARS ago, you started a write up on the Bam B50.
But had a valve lock issue, and would revisit the rifle when you resolved the issue.
I also have a B50, and it sometimes gets valve lock when going over 1800 psi.
It likes to shoot from 1500psi to 1100psi for 40 shots in the 800fps range.
It is the most accurate PCP I have.
Now a few years later, the B50 has fallen out of the spotlight, and is relegated to the lower end of the scale compared to newer more popular models.
I hope you will one day, dust it off, get the valve lock issue solved, and show your readers what this rifle is actually capable of.
For just a little more than $210, it is a very accurate and capable PCP rifle.
Ian
Ian,
I returned the BAM B50 to Pyramyd AIR years ago and never got another one. They dropped the gun from their line, so I felt is wasn’t worth pursuing.
Sorry,
B.B.
It happens, such is the life of a busy man..
One day down the road you may revisit it as a classic airgun with a strong underground following.
Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Ian
I would like to hear more about the BAM B50.
It is a cheap Chinese copy of a Daystate. It has a cult following just like the Izzy 60.
Oh ok.
Hiveseeker,
I really like the graphic presentation in this blog. It’s way easier to see what the gun is doing (well, for me since I’ve found I thrive on graphic presentations as opposed to numbers and names and tables) and it also allows one to determine at what point they would stop to change CO2 cartridges if one is willing to go to a lower velocity. Looking forward to your next part and why you think it’s taking a couple of shots to wake up the gun before attaining max velocity.
Fred DPRoNJ
Thanks, Fred DPRoNJ. I’m a very visual thinker myself, which is why you’re seeing a lot of graphs. The velocity drops sooner than I expected–accuracy doesn’t suffer right away at only 10 yards, but the 20-yard test may be more revealing in this regard.
Well done, HS! I have two 2400kts and a 2240, so this is right up my alley! The valves on the 2250 2300 and 2240s all have different part #s, so I wonder if the custom shop uses just one type of valve universally, or if they choose different ones that correspond to the caliber ordered…(?)
I suspect it’s a different valve; the .177 velocity seems “dialed down” compared to the .22. I’ve already got some discussion on this coming.
Hiveseeker
If they start with the 2240 I’m betting that both of your guns have the same valve in them.
I usually go to the Crosman website and pull up the parts diagrams and compare part numbers to different guns to find if what I’m looking for is available.
The problem with try that with the guns you have is that the custom shop guns may not be listed. I haven’t payed attension to see. I will have to later I’m on my phone and its a pain to pull stuff up. I will check later and see if I come up with anything.
Hiveseeker
Like I thought no diagrams listed for your guns on the Crosman site. But the 2300 guns have a different valve than the 2240 so they may of put different valves in. Or they could of started with the 2300 guns because of the trigger assembly being similar.
Well you got the guns so there is a one way to find out if the valves are different to know for sure. Take the guns apart.
Nope, no parts diagrams. Crosman is more than a little hush-hush on these guns, all the way ’round. But it’s a really good secret! Hopefully we’ll be pulling aside the curtains a little on this gun.
Them sly little devils. How will we ever learn now. 🙂
HiveSeeker,
Good job I have enjoyed reading your report so far. Are you planning to shoot either at 25yds for accuracy or is that asking to much from a gun that started like as a pistol?
David
Pa.oldman,
A 20-yard test is in progress!
Hiveseeker,
Tthanks for the heads’up on the Crosman sampler! I would like to see Crosman state that they are single die lots.but I did see another customer do so and looked at the images as closely as the resolution would allow. I’ll be getting one myself shortly 🙂
Reb,
Crosman describes the Benjamin sampler as “single die production.” Some of their various Premier and Benjamin domed and hollow point pellets are nearly identical, and we’ll be taking an in-depth look at them soon.
As much as I almost hate to admit it.I said I’d have no issues cocking this Regal. I ran outta forceful travel in my left armand pulled something in my shoulder a minute ago, had to finish the stroke by shoving the pistol- grip with my right. The scope came loose somewhere between shot 75 &100( not an allen-wrench in sight).Waiting for the USPS to blow this dark cloud away!
Reb
You pulled your shoulder? And the screes came loose on the scope rings.
That’s crazy are you talking about the ones that mount the rings to the dove tails or the ones that hold the caps on.
I tight end the ones on the dove tails and I’m notorious for over tightening. So if they came loose there that kind of makes me scratch my head.
Or was it the caps that hold the scope in the rings. You mounted the scope in the rings. Which scope did you use that I sent you? The big scope wouldn’t fit in those rings. They were to short because the objective lens was to big.
Let me know what’s up.
The scope spun in the mounts. My shoulder will be alright and I’ll be paying closer attention to whereand how I grab it while cocking from here on. I’ll also be getting this Gamo scope on it within the next week or so
Reb
You cocked it holding the scope? If so there’s more reason than one to NOT do that.
And yeah that Gamo scope was actually a pretty good scope. All in time right.
I don’t think I could get enough leverage to cock it by holding the scope and I’m sure my nephew David Knows better. but he looked back from the rest and said “It’s twisted” and it readily spun back into place so I’m sure I was just too gentle and used no Loctite on it yet anywhere.I was gonna do ’em all @ the same time, after I get a new tube
I haven’t even checked pivot play yet.
But SSI showed up just in time for the weekend so I should be able to allocate some funds for it soon.
Reb
You got to make a leverage multiplier to help cock that regal, get a piece of the thick walled hot water PVC pipe and cut out a slot to clear the front sight and make it about a foot or so longer so you can slide it over the barrel and give you some added leverage and not destroy your shoulder and muscles like that tryiomng to cock that thing.
Have you done any more adjusting on the trigger yet or did you just leave it alone after you took the spring out of it as I was wondering if you got more of the first stage took out and more to your liking.
BD
buldawg
That is a good idea.
I made a exstension for one of the newer smooth bore 760’s I have and bolted it to the pump handle.
My girls were young then and couldn’t pump it. I just got a small piece of steel hex stock that was about a 1/4″ across the flats and about 8″ long drilled two holes in it and bolted to the middle of the bottom of the pump handle.
I extended about 3″ longer and it was enough to help. They had to make sure they knew to pump with the palm of their hand open so they wouldn’t smash their fingers.
I still have it on that 760 and that was about 7 years ago that I did it. It just makes it a whole lot easier to pump.
Gunfun
Yea he has to do something to help him cock it without hurting himself as he is beat up enough without adding to the pain he has to endure. I know how bad he want to shoot it but he just has top get some more leverage to make it easier on his left arm.
I know mine get hard and tiring for me to cock for any length of time and now that I got that Sheridan up and working it is getting harder to pump it every day. I have not shot it yet because have no pellets but I do pump it up and shot it about three or four time a day to get the lube circulated thru it and help the seal get better seated every day. They are getting seat better for sure as it is harder to pump and holds three pumps overnight without any loss of report. io cannot wait till I get the pellets to see what it does on the chrony.
BD
buldawg
So the Sheridan is holding up. And how about the Mrod. And the shoebox is a sucess so far.
Gunfun
The Sheridan is sounding better and better every time I pump it up as the report is getting louder and crisper, still no pellets to actually see if it is shooting as good as it sounds, but have a new pump cup and exhaust valve coming from crosman for it for 7 bucks and going to order a check valve ,valve body oring and lead seal for it from JG airguins so I will have everything to build it if it ever needs it done in the future as I will not get rid of it.
The Mrod is still leaking about 200 psi per day and the fill foster has black sealer on it so down the road when I get all my other projects caught up I will tear it all apart an completely reseal it with the urethane seals that Loren gave me with it. but right now it does not leak enough to be of ant consequence in a FT match so I am leaving it alone for now.
The shoebox is purring like a Kitten in your lap being stroked to its hearts content.
RDNA just sent me the hatsan piston today so when I get it I will tear into the firepower and get it to fit in the action and pressurize to 100 or 105 bar to see what it does for fps and recoil characteristics and when I get it the way I want it I will swap it into the Remington stock that has the adjustable comb for the FT matches and hopefully have a good spring FT gun.
BD
buldawg
Yep so far so good with the shoe box.
And I like to know how that Sheridan shoot’s.
You don’t hear to much about .20 cal. anymore. They say that was the caliber to have in the day.
Gunfun
Yea I cannot wait till I get my pellets that I ordered from wally world for Benjamin’s 500 for
11 bucks including tax. They say some time next week so will keep pumping it a few times each day to get it loosened up and see what it does.
The 1400 he gave me is in worse shape as I cannot get the valve out of the tube so I have it soaking in some PB blaster to see if it will come loose and out of the tube as I have all the parts to build it to brand new status
Glad the shoebox is back up and ruining for you and you will be happier with it than a big heavy tank to have to move around and get filled..
BD
buldawg
Yep as much as I shoot I think that nitrogen tank fill station would of got expensive.
Gunfun
I think it would have cost you more than the 270 you spent in a years time easily and you would have the aggravation of having to swap out tanks and it would end up you needed one on the weekend and could not get till Monday
BD
It’s already too long of a reach for my left and slapping the barrel open is still the hardest part. But Thanks, I’ll remember that trick if it looks like it may be necessary.
/blog/2014/11/crosmans-2400kt-carbine-part-3/#comment-302054
Reb
If you placed the butt on the floor with the pcv pipe as an extension you should styli be able to reach the muzzle end and have that extra leverage to get it cocked easier.
BD
Gunfun
Yea I prefer the front hold down screw also and I use the ones that take a ,050 allen wrench as they will strip out eventually but then so do the slot head screw to so it half a dozen to one in which is best I actually would like to see an bigger allen head screw in that spot but space is limited.
The rubber port seal is more compliant than the ice maker tubing so the screw is a must but I have had no leaks with the port seals either so it is just what each prefers and know with the 177 port opening issue it is probably better to use the rubber seal but I like to spot fact the valve to provide a pocket for the seal to be contained in instead of just the flat surface that crosman uses. but that’s just me being a perfectionist form my Harley days and vehicle repair in general as I never did like to do comeback work,
BD
buldawg
There is a little trick to that flat head screw.
You hold the breech down to the maintube with just enough force to feel the seals compress. Then tighten the screw up. When you let loose with your hand it will try to spring up.
The next time you want to take apart yogrip the breech and barrel real tight and it will compress your seals and the screw will come right loose.
That screw doesn’t need to be buried tight.
GUnfun
I am a gorilla tightener when it come to putting screw in and a cut my seals just a little long so they compress .020 to.030 inches for a good air tight seal and remember I have pumped my 1400 and 2289 to 25 pumps at times and never blown any breech seal or a other seal for that matter. I will say the slotted head screw hold up better but they are hard to find and expensive on eayt as the Allen head ones are a 1.15 from crosman and I get five at a time to make it worth the 4 bucks shipping.
BD
buldawg
I always get hollered at when I do stuff at work. People can’t get it apart.
But that trick works nice. The screw will hold tight but still come out easy if done the way I say.
Gunfun
I used to get hollered at also and it just a hard habit to break but recently I have been using some pink loctite that a buddy that works at the army depot get when it is out of date as they just throw it away and get new it may be only a few days over the use by date but het have to throw it away and get new supply so he bring me home some supplies every so often of all kind of Loctite and super glues and rtv sealers that are way better than we can buy at our local hardware shops. the super glue you keep in the fridge and I have some that is 8 years old and it still works great just don’t get it on your fingers because there is no seconds to get them apart as they are bonded the minute they touch. Then it is soaking them in hot water for a couple hours to get it to release.
BD
buldawg my buddy works in aviation repair. A airplane mechanic.
He gets some of the black sealer that is like what Crosman uses. And its even fuel proof. So that means the lubes we use won’t deteriate it.
Gunfun
Yeah I have looked for that at the hardware stores and cannot find it so I am going to ask my buddy if the depot has some because they do all kinds of hydraulic and air lines work on the tanks and transport vehicles out there so I bet he has some of it also. Plus it is the best kind you can get FREE
BD
buldawg
I forgot. Have you seen any of the pictures of the Hatsan 95 stock that RDNA has been refinishing.
Its coming out nice. He putting some color ascents to it.
I was thinking about having him do the 54 stock but I really want to keep the 54,HW50s and the TX in factory original condition.
I might get one of them fancy stocks like you got on your Mrod for my .177 synthetic stock Mrod and have him refinish it and add some highlights to it.
I talked to him about the 54 but I think I will run the Mrod idea past him.
GHundfun
Yea he sent me some pics of it and it looks real good and I am glad he has the patience to do that kind of work as I would have gotten frustrated by now and just slapped some stain on it and poly urethane and been done. You could have you Trex done in a walnut stain and no one would know the difference except you and him.
BD
buldawg
No,no,no. Can’t touch the TX.
Its real nice. I did some polishing on it tonight.
My HW50s has some unique grain for beech as well as the TX. So they are staying as they are. Now my 54 is another story. Its a lighter color wood than the rest of my guns. So that’s why I thought about doing that stock. But I want to keep it original.
Have you seen any of the pristine non restored in untouched muscle cars. I have heard people call them document cars. People will come and look at them when restoring cars. Like for the correct paint marks and such.
There was a guy on the SRT forums when I had my turbo SRT4 that had a untouched car. People gave him trouble all the time about not modding it.
But you no what people always would reference his car from pictures of his car.
We always asked that question she we was kids. What will be worth more in the future. A hot rodded muscle car or a factory original one. And remember that’s when I was buying them with like 30 to 50,000 miles on them from the original owners.
The springers ain’t going to fall into that rare collectable category I don’t think but I’m trying to keep them untouched.
Suppose to say we always asked that question when we was kids. Not she was kids.
GF1,
The untouched ones will always be worth more in the long run. When I am shopping around for sproingers and I see the words ‘tuned’ and ‘custom’, I do not even slow down. Quite often they jack the price to cover their cost of such and usually end up selling for less than an untouched one.
The top shelf sproingers are collectables right out of the box. Just like the top shelf cars, they may depreciate a little at first, but not near as much as the rest and then later the old ones cost more than a brand new one.
Hence, another reason to buy top shelf and leave the cheap junk to the unwashed masses.
RR
You are right. You wouldn’t believe how my eye’s would light up when I went to look at a muscle car to buy.
When a grandma would answer the door and her and her son would show me to the garage to see the car and it had a cover over it. Slide the cover of and there set a beautiful black 69 Nova with a bench seats with plastic covering the seats. Automatic with the horseshoe floor shifter and console. And 2 little flag emblems on each fender that said 396. And the car only has 50,000 original miles.
I bought that car back in 82 for 1800 dollars. Well that’s what I hope I can do with my big 3 I got now. Air Arms TX 200 Mrklll, Weihrauch HW50s and the Diana 54 Air King.
I think I’m starting to get my springer’s in order now and i hope that I don’t have to rebuild them. I do shoot alot though So will see if they hold up.
If you care for that lineup properly, they should last you a long time. Hey, my BSA is 108 years old. Yes, I had to rebuild it, but there was something there worth rebuilding.
RR
Did I hear you say quality and knowledge.
Gunfun
I was just getting your attention when I said stain you T rex into a walnut color stain as I would not touch it either or the HW.
Unless the 54 is scratched or faded at all I would not do anything to it either.
You are right that a original numbers matching muscle car will always be worth more than one that has been modified from factory original..
I wish I still had my 64 Goat as it was an original numbers maching car and I would not even want to guess what it would be worth today as it was one of the delete everything cars to make it light and fast.
Give them sprinters 20 or 30 years like my buddies 70 model 124 and see what people will be willing to give for them. I know I’d pay what ever he asked for his 124 just because the year vintage it is and the condition it is in as I have rebuilt it and shot it so I know how fine a gun it is
Time will only tell.
BD.
buldawg
The 54,HW50s and the T-Rex don’t have even a little nick on them. Not even a scratch on a screw. They look like they just came out of the box.
Well with alot more shine to them now after a little polishing. 🙂
Gunfun
Just got done a full day of tuning and shooting with my grandkids and have had a blast got some tuning numbers for the 2240 pistol and talked to Loren and he said the fill fitting on the Mrod was replaced about 6 months ago as a whole unit and that is why it has the black sealer on it so I bet it is the O-rings on the gauge port leaking.
Here is the final numbers for the 2240 pistol, there are two tunes that give almost identical numbers with just a 2 shot count difference.
Tune # 1, 5 3/4 turns in from flush, 2000 psi fill, 8.44 JSBs 22 shot count, end fill 1000psi
Low = 578.0
High = 632.1
AVG = 608.5
ES = 54.15
SD = 17.17
Tune # 2, 2000 psi fill, 6 turns in from flush, 8.44 JSBs, 20 shot count, end fill 1000 psi
Low=581.1
High = 637.2
AVG = 616.5
ES = 56/10
SD = 16.76
That is with stock valve with port in valve opened up to 11/64″, stock transfer bushing with ice maker port seal, stock hammer spring with nut inside hammer in front of spring, your disco bolt probe and handle, 10.1 inch LW barrel and steel breech, single hipac with no extensions. I think it will make a very good FT pistol with a 20 to 22 shot count between fills and only using 1000 psi per total shot counts which works out to about 50 psi per shot
I just need to see what front sight or muzzle brake he wants on it as the fill fitting is only a inch from the end of the barrel so I am not sure there is enough room for the muzzle brake and still be able to connect the fill connector on to the fitting, the muzzle brake I have coming is pretty thin but not sure it is enough to allow it to be filled with it on so it may just get a fiber optic or stock front sight which ever he wants to protect the crown of the barrel.
BD
Gunfun
No sighting on the Mrod but plenty of shooting time to learn the gun and it is a tack driver at any range with the right hold overs I just could not sight at 35 yards with the grandkids here and being the usual distractions that they create but that is ok because we had fun and I got more shooting time with the gun and learning the trigger much better. so it was all good and my oldest grandson got three starlings with my 177 venom at 25 to 30 yards. They are better shots than me and faster as I was aiming at them to but he is just faster on the aim and trigger pull than me, lets me know I am getting old and slow.
BD
buldawg
You got to watch shoot’n with the kids. Both of my girls will give me a run for my money.
Did you see below. I posted a few pictures from me shooting the T-Rex.
RDNA
I will take it if you don’t want it and I can pay you back the shipping on it to help you out as you sent me the piston for free. just let me know and I can sent you the money by snail mail or paypal as I can always use more tools and and
small taps break easy any way so it is always best to have extras on hand.
BD
Gunfun and RDNA
I am getting ready to hit the sack so I can get up early and get some sighting and shooting done before the rain gets here tomorrow night.
later
BD
Hey Pete in the Caribbean, I’m down here now!
The truth is, more and more air rifles have metal stocks. The top end 10 meter rifles and the Joe Blow Commando models use metal and laminated wood or plastic. Metal against the skin though just does not seem to work too well, especially when you start experiencing the more extreme temperature ranges. It would not be fun to be out squirrel hunting in the winter and have your cheek get stuck to the stock.
There are actually some nice polymer stocks out there. You will not find them on any air rifles manufactured at present. They are not hollow and they are not cheap.
All the problems that sproingers have, such as horrible triggers, vibration, recoil and torque, have been worked out. Strangely, most manufacturers do not try to address these issues. Likely it is cost. If they do attempt to do such, it is a cheap, half hearted effort.
It is our own fault. We would rather buy ten cheap sproingers that buck and slap and shake and cannot hit the side of a barn from the inside than buy one that is a dream to shoot, will put the pellet where you aim and look good while doing it.
If anyone is interested here is 9 shots at individual 1/2” circles at 50 yards with the TX200. And a picture of where I was shooting and where the target was placed. The white paper at the corner of the fence is the target.
I wasn’t trying for groups yet. Was trying to see how close I could stay to the center of the circle.
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag362/gcars/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141122_171134044_zps53051bb6.jpg
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag362/gcars/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141122_163648118_HDR_zps9c9173dd.jpg
Gunfun
Yea both my grandsons give me a run for the money when shooting, Its the younger eyes and quicker reflexes LOL, actually they have become very good shots and very safe with handling guns as well.
That’s is some good accuracy at 50 yards with that T rex for sure and if you can get that close to the centers or take all the those single shots and place them on top of each other and you will have a half inch group so I would say it is a tack driver also.
I would be up on your porch shooting off the railing if it was me instead of sitting on the ground shooting, I can tell you right now it is going to be a sight to laugh at watching me get up and down off the ground this next FT match for sure because on some of the lanes you are on steep ground and I would just bet I go rolling down at least one of the slopes getting up from sitting down.
So how do you think the tuning on the 2240 for Loren turned out, I can get more fps out of it but the shot count will suffer so I got it as best I could and keep at least 20 shots per fill.
BD
buldawg
It looks like it should be pretty consistent shooting.
Groups next?
Gunfun
No sights on it and I do not have a pistol scope to put on it to sight it in with and I don’t want to take all the fun away from Loren as he said he has a scope he is going to put on it so I am done with it for now until I can get with him some time next week. We will be in Atlanta Monday so I am going to call him one day after Monday and meet to give it to him and of it nice out we may go to the range and sight it and the Mrod in at the same time.
I will know more next Tuesday.
BD
That’s not too bad for 50 yards when you’re still breaking the beast in!
I know I’d be pretty happy with results like that, especially given the bump!
It would do the trick for a tree rat at that range, that’s for sure!
Qj
Its for sure shooting good right out of the box.
It will put a few shots on top of each other and some will touch. Then you have those that are trying to stray.
I can tell by the sound it was making at end of the day that it’s getting closer to being broke in. Getting a lower tone when it shoots and getting smoother. Got about 400 through it now.
I think it may still get a bit better but its pretty close to being broke in. I’m sure that when they were paying attention to tolerances that a quicker break in was also a benefit.
As funny as it may sound its almost like somebody flipped a switch when my 54 and HW50s started hitting good. I knew that the gun finally got there.
So all thats left to do now is shoot more. 🙂
BB,
I was looking for that report on the BSA Supersport SE that Dom was referring to and came across Part 1 of the Supersport .25. Did that report ever get finished and the other parts were lost in the nether world or was that one ever finished? I know that was during a very rough time in your world.
RR,
Once I understood which gun he was referring to, I found Part 2.
/blog/2014/03/bsa-supersport-se-part-2/
I told him the gun is sitting here, awaiting Part 3, which I will do.
B.B.
I found part 1 and 2 of that report and although I am very interested in part 3, I was referring to this Supersport and whether there were any subsequent reports and if so, what was their fate.
/blog/2011/04/bsa-supersport-25-cal-part-1/
Ref Air Arms stocks above, their stocks are made by Minelli in Italy, like many other rifles, and to be honest, I’m not impressed by how easily they mark at all, I have Weihrauch and Diana’s that are largely unmarked after 30 years plus of use but I have to treat my 4 year old S400 with kid gloves, the beech they use just seems so much softer.
Dom
The stock on my HW50s is made by Minelli Its got the little M on it.
I wonder if they used different wood on it.
Yes Ridgerunner, there’s a few that have faded away 🙂
I get it, lots of new releases, diversions, tangents to follow and only one couple holding the fort. Guest blogs that lapse into silence etc, I only notice when it’s a part of a report I’m dying to hear.
Could neaten things up by doing a preliminary report on a Hatsan, when it goes off like truck suspension breaking, don’t bother with any other part, we know where thats going, plastic Crosmans that only approach velocity when filled with pellgun oil etc, Gamo’s doing 1100 fps but grouping 10″ at 30 yards.
Understandably BB reviews for Pyramyd, so can’t say an exasperated “piece of c**p” and put it back in the post, and is actually very honest for a partisan reviewer, he could teach the UK press a thing or two, though Pyramyd are to be applauded for welcoming his autonomy and giving him the latency to criticise their stock investments. The sign of an honest trader.
I think, however, we should scour the archives and have a “catch up month”
Not sure Tom will thank us for that 🙂
The most difficult part about catching up on some of these is that like the BAM50, he sent it back long ago and cannot get his hands on it again, even if he wanted to.
We can still give him a hard time about it anyway. Most of the time he has a pretty good sense of humor and can be quite tolerant. He even communicates with me on occasion. 😉
Somebody’s got a B50 out there. Sounds like a good guest blog! I’d like to hear more about it.
Ha ha, I’ll be happy if he just straps a decent scope on the Supersport and publishes 3 lots of 40 yard 10 shot groups with JSB Exacts, Crosman Premier Lights and H&N FTT, ….. Only thing, ultimately I’m interested in…..what it does at 10m with Gamo or Daisy pellets just serves to puzzle me….if it isn’t accurate at range I’m not interested in the figuring of the stock or depth of blueing….you kinda know if it’s doing half inch groups at 30 yards that the trigger, ergonomics and firing cycle is good, they all follow.
Let’s not be too hard on him 🙂
Dom,
If my feeble memory serves me correct, you are on the other side of the pond. I have a rather large favor to ask of you. For a bit now I have been searching for a front sight hood for my 1906 BSA. I am quite certain that such things as these are as we say, “rare as hen’s teeth”. I would greatly appreciate it if you could take a look around and see if you can turn one up for me.
Ridgerunner, ever since you first mentioned it I’ve kept an eye out, I’ve only seen the hood on very early advertisement pictures, which seem to disappear on 1908 ads, but never seen one in the flesh
I’m heading over to Protek supplies in Bognor Regis on Tues, maybe Weds and I’ll ask them to keep an eye out, they are big on early beesas, so one may float past. I fear the front sight hood is rare, full stop, not just rare across the pond, in fact I wonder how the hell one of you colonials managed to end up with a BSA of that vintage?
Pure gun isn’t it?
There’s a Brit up north of me who has a PCP cylinder attached to one…..Youtube it, mind you his accent is quite hard for me to understand, so good luck 🙂
Dom
Aw and you would have to say that.
And yet another pcp conversion. 🙂
http://www.proteksupplies.co.uk/antique-vintage-air-rifles-pre-1939.html
Might be worth a buck on the phone
Dom
Those are some wonderful guns there. I like.
Regarding the velocities of your 177,Ive just received my 2400kt in 177,it has a 24″ barrel .I was very worried that I went to long and should have chosen the 18″ instead after reading some thoughts of others, but to my surprise I got around 675 out of Crosman competition wadcutters and 630ish out of the Crosman heavyweights. The Crosman lead free gave me 800 fps but I think there junk. Tomorrow ill do complete strings and post them if u like