by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
H&N Excite Smart Shot BBs are the first lead BBs in 90 years.
This report covers:
- Forced-feed magazine
- The test
- Umarex BBs
- Daisy BBs
- Smart Shot BBs
- Daisy BB
- Conclusions
- What do I test next?
Today I am shooting the H&N Excite Smart Shot copper-plated lead BB in a Daisy number 25 pump BB gun that has a 50-shot forced-feed magazine. The gun I am using was made in Plymouth, Michigan between the years 1952 and 1958, which can be determined by the electrostatic paint instead of bluing on the metal and the plastic buttstock and pump handle. This gun is in 95 percent condition and would be 98 percent except the butt has a slight curve at the back that’s characteristic of the soft plastic Daisy used in those days. It probably stood on its butt in a warm closet for 30 years before I bought it at a flea market in the early 1990s. I doubt it was ever shot before I bought it. It’s so nice that I seldom shoot it, but today I wanted a gun that’s as close as I can come to the current Daisy 25 that Pyramyd AIR sells.
Forced-feed magazine
This BB gun has a 50-shot forced feed magazine with a spring-powered follower that pushes the BBs down to the breech. There is a lot less chance this gun will fail to fire a BB than if the magazine were a gravity-fed model — like the Haenel 100 pistol we looked at on Monday. But there was some concern that the follower would put so much pressure on the lead BBs that they would deform and fail to feed. That is one of the things I am testing for you today.
The test
I shot seated at 5 meters with the gun rested on the UTG Monopod. That monopod is fast becoming an essential part of my testing equipment — like the MTM shooting bench and my Shooting Chrony Alpha Master chronograph.
I used the peep sight leaf on the gun’s rear sight assembly. The leaf that has both sight elements is loose and cannot be tightened, so I pulled it back into position before each shot — not unlike resetting a Unertl rifle scope that has an anti-recoil slide built into the mount. The peep hole is small, but with a 500-watt lamp illuminating the target it was easy to use. And it is far more precise than the open notch that’s also available on this sight.
The no. 25’s rear sight has both a peep and an open notch. The leaf is as upright as it will go and it flops around. So I pulled it into position before each shot.
Umarex BBs
First I loaded 10 Umarex BBs into the magazine and started the test. Umarex BBs have shown themselves to be as accurate as other premium brands in tests with other BB guns, so why not with the 25?
Ten Umarex BBs made a 1.283-inch group at 5 meters. While it’s not exactly tight, it’s about what I expected this airgun to do.
Ten Umarex BBs made this group that measures 1.283-inches between centers at 5 meters.
Smart Shot BBs
I thought we were off to a good start, so I loaded 10 Smart Shot BBs next. The follower did not damage them in any way. It might be possible to make one or more Smart Shot BB deform if you pull the follower all the way up and then release it and let it slam down on a few BBs at the bottom of the column, but loading them normally doesn’t do anything it shouldn’t.
The first shot fired two BBs at the same time. This is a problem some forced-feed magazines have if the tolerance at the breech is slightly oversized and the BBs are on the small side. The fix has always been to get a new magazine, because these things are a non-maintainable assembly once they are manufactured. My gun is collectible, so I’m not going to do anything about it. If I shot the gun more I would restrict my shooting to whatever brand of BB didn’t double feed. There were no more double feeds in this session.
Ten Smart Shot BBs landed in a group that measures 1.932-inches between centers. It was the largest group of the test, so the Smart Shot BBs are not right for this number 25 — at least not with this shot tube/magazine installed.
Ten Smart Shot lead BBs made this 1.932-inch group at 5 meters. The first 2 shots came out at the same time and the arrow points to both impacts on the target.
Daisy BB
For the final BB I used Daisy’s Premium Grade BBs. These are the market standard for premium steel BBs. But in this number 25 they did not work well at all. There were at least two double feeds in this string. I lost count, but I knew I was firing blanks by shot number 9 for sure. So this BB isn’t right in this gun.
Ten Daisy BBs went into 1.763-inches at 5 meters. Even if they didn’t double feed, that’s far enough back from the Umarex BBs to not use them.
Ten Daisy Premium BBs made this 1.763-inch group at 5 meters. Don’t overlook the hole at the upper right.
Conclusions
First I conclude there is no danger of deforming the Smart Shot BBs in a spring-loaded magazine. As long as you exercise reasonable care when loading, they load like any other BB.
Next I see that this old number 25 has a shot tube with loose tolerances. I have 6-8 other shot tubes available for this gun if I really wanted to shoot it, so this is not a problem for me. I would just install one of them and shoot the gun and then return the correct shot tube when I was done.
Finally, being on the small side I see that the Smart Shot BBs may be less accurate in some BB guns. Of course they are really made for their additional safety margin, so accuracy is secondary. Safety is their primary function and we saw how dramatically different they behave when fired against hard targets in part 3 of this report.
What do I test next?
I have already tested quite a few things with the Smart Shot BBs. By no means am I finished, but here is what I have left to do — test them in a powerful pneumatic that has a rifled barrel like a Daisy 880 and test them in a semiautomatic BB gun like a Makarov Ultra, to see whether they feed through the magazine like they should. Beyond that, are there any other tests I should conduct?
Hi B.B.,
Yes unless I have missed it I would like to know if these BB’s fly out of a .22 rim fire bullet trap like steel BB’s do.
Any info appreciated thanks,
Mark N
Mark,
Okay, I can test that.
B.B.
B.B.,
I’ll second Mark’s request.
Michael
I’d like to see how they work in the 2100 as opposed to the 880 but both would be even better.
The 2100 has more power on tap And a spring loaded follower with a BB stop that may lessen double feeds.
I took the stop outta my Remington Airmaster so it would feed .177 lead shot and trying to figure out if it would be worthwhile to reinstall or just leave it setup as is and stick with regular lead.
There it is, you asked for it!
Reb
Reb,
I don’t own a 2100. I have to use the guns I have.
B.B.
Would you care for a chance at one of these 766’s? I have 2 and they both seem to be intact just not holding/ pumping air, yet.
I was laid down and headed for REMland until I remembered a text from the pawn shop about my Regal coming due on the 23rd, now I’m stressed out til I get there tomorrow but I found the ticket and they can’t do anything with it til about Christmas.
Still stressed about it though.
Reb,
See comment below.
As long as you’re taking suggestions, I’d love to see how this lead BB does out of one of the 1911 blowback replicas. The one I’d personally want to see most is the (grimace) Blackwater model by KWA, since it sports the modern trim (ducktail gripsafety, good sights), faithful trigger and safety, and magazine-based mounting for the powerlet. But others would illustrate the point just fine as well. The Umarex “Colt Commander” lacks only the ergonomic gripsafety and extended thumb safety, and it does seem to have the advantage over the KWA of having original dustcover dimensions–which means it will fit more holsters. Really, as long as it has a faithful trigger, I suspect that watching you run the basic action through your standard tests would get me the information I’m after.
The promise of this BB has me re-assessing the role of BB guns in my overall plan. (Meaning, currently they have no role, but I am trying to rethink things from the ground up.) Both the low-ricochet quality and the capacity for accuracy are getting my attention, and so I’d love to see a systematic accuracy comparison between two parallel pistols–a BB gun using Smart Shot BBs, and an Airsoft gun using Airsoft ‘BBs’. Do it at both five and ten meters–sure, they may be bigger groups than rifled pellet guns, but let ’em spread, and see how the two compare.
There would seem to be several candidates already available for such a test. That nifty Bersa you recently covered has what looks to be an identical Airsoft offering. The Tanfoglio LTD/Gold (CZ75 based) Airsoft gun you did a while back also has a BB gun version. SIG has the P226 X5 in both formats. That (grimace) Blackwater 1911 is available in Airsoft and BB. Heck, you could even line up the S&W M&P models for Airsoft and BB, and throw in the M&P45 CO2 rifled pellet pistol, for a three-way comparison. And of course there may be others as well.
In general, it’s harder to find a functionally-fully-faithful design in “BB gun” format than it is in Airsoft–but there do seem to be at least a few in there, and arguably things may be improving. With reduced-ricochet ammo and “enough” accuracy to make target “perspective scaling” worthwhile, the “BB gun” option may be a better idea than I’ve given it credit for.
Kevin,
I do plan on testing them in a semiautomatic air pistol. A blowback 1911 would do for that. But I don’t have access to every model on the market. And many of them are made by the same Asian manufacturer anyway.
I will do the best I can.
B.B.
B.B. Do you still have the Winchester 1911 blow back gun? I’d like to see how they do in that gun if so! Thanks, Doc
Doc,
I bought that gun after I tested it, so I still have it. But I was going to test them in a Remington 1911 that I have not tested for you yet. It’s blowback also.
B.B.
Excellent. I look forward to that!
No worries of course, B.B. You do plenty for us already. 🙂
Incidentally, I’d love to see an article some day on exactly how you do get access to the guns you do. Somehow I think I’d find that illuminating.
Oh, and here’s a curious question–please forgive me if it’s already come up and I’ve missed it–but if these plated lead BBs really do catch on, would it be worth it to develop a rifled barrel for them? One might think that if a rifled BB barrel, shooting these plated lead BBs, could get us halfway from “standard” steel, smoothbore BB gun accuracy to rifled pellet gun accuracy, it might well be worth it. The idea of greater reach and precision, while still retaining faithful gun designs, is tempting…
Kevin,
We already have .177 round lead balls that I have tested in pellet rifles. I have also tested the Haenel 310, which is a rifled 4.4mm gun that shoots copper-plated lead balls. That’s the same thing that you are asking me to do here.
I don’t think a rifled BB barrel is anything that will sell. It’s too specialized.
B.B.
Thanks, B.B., for the tidbit. Found the reference in a quick search. Wow, interesting piece, that Haenel 310. Being a repeater, with what looks like a robust manual action, might well have good value as an adult trainer. The bolt’s in a very different place, of course, and the cocking stroke is neither “on opening” nor “on closing” the way you’d think of it in a turnbolt firearm, but if it’s robust (and I’d suspect it is), and accurate (which it seemed to be), it might work pretty well nonetheless.
Kevin,
The Haenel 310s are still affordable if you shop. I see them for under $100 akk the time.
Look on Gun Broker.
B.B.
BB
Can you do the bar of soap test with the smart shot bb’s. Use what ever gun you want at whatever distance you want.
I want to see if they penetrate or mushroom in the bar of soap.
Oh also can you test them with the Rocket Shot can launcher to see if it will launch a can and if you get any ricorches too.
Well and also what they will do to the beverage can when hit. Maybe they will hit with more athourity. You know more fpe.
GF1,
Why soap? Why not ballistic gel? I have a block of that.
B.B.
BB
That’s fine also.
The reason I brought the soap up you used it once when you were testing something and I can’t remember what. But I believe you suggested it if a person didn’t have access to ballistic gel. I tryed the soap back then and it worked out pretty good. Was actually kind of fun shooting at it.
GF1 and Reb,
While we are on the subject of underlevers, have you guys checked out the new Gamo ACCU? It seems to be a powered up CFX. Maybe if we whine and cry about it enough, we can get BB to do a review of it.
And Reb, go get your Regal. If you want to lose it, send it to me. At least it will be appreciated.
RR
I have seen the Gamo underlever. I like the design but I’m just not a fan of Gamo. Bad past experiences. Even gave them a try a little later in time and same result.
Whatever happened to you wanting to get one of those Stoeger air guns. I know its not a underlever but you acted like you wanted one of those. And from experience I had better luck with mine than the Gamo.
And again just me. I’m not a big fan of those types of spring guns but I will say this. I have been getting excellent results with my M8 with JSB 8.44’s which is a copy of a Bronco with a different stock. Only a $129. Execelent little gun for the price. Not the type I would normally get either anymore but hearing BB’s review about it and the Bronco sold me on it. And I’m glad I did get it.
Now I really want your 46! I am wanting a sproinger in .22. I am very interested in it.
My first air rifle was a CFX. I put a GRT trigger on it and with the right pellet I was shooting 10 shot groups at 25 yards you could literally cover with a dime. This is why I want BB to test the ACCU in .22, so as to see if it is worthy of my owning one.
The X20S is still in my wish list, but it may get edged out by the Walther Terrus. All the reviews rave about it. It also costs about twice as much. I guess it will depend on how much tinkering and tuning I want to do. From what I am hearing the X20S shoots great, but has a horrible trigger. I can fix that, but do I want to fool with it?
We’ll see when the time comes. In the meantime I need to be working on you and that 46!
RR
It sounds like you had good luck with that CFX. And I know you mentioned the trigger on them types of gun and that’s what turns me off also. Even replacing the trigger to a better one.
And I just have to bring this up again. That 2 blade trigger on the M8 is excellent. You would think that trigger came from a Weihrauch or something. Well if it didn’t have a double blade. But it breaks clean and crisp and is very light in pull weight.
And sorry but I’m going to hold to what I have been preaching. Can’t let go of the 46. When you get a good one you better hold onto it. And that I am. Done learned that lesson.
Well, if I had a TX200 MK3 or a Walther LGU or a HW97 or a Diana 46, I probably would not be interested in the Gamo ACCU. The SAT trigger still needs some improvement I am sure, but it can be made decent. If the internals are the same as they appear to be, I could replace the spring with a gas spring, maybe even a Vortex so I could tune it.
I really need to get on that FWB 300.
RR
Speaking of 300. I just got through cranking the power up on that one I got from you.
Took out the two factory mainsprings and put two different main springs in it from what I had left over from tuning other guns.
Yes it still shoots accurately, shoots better in the wind, still is rock solid on a bench with no movement when it fires. And now shoots the jsb10.34 pellet around 750 fps. Put no more 2 finger cocking and I got to keep a eye on the cocking mechanisms with the added stress.
But over all very happy how it turned out.
And yes you should get on that other 300 you have. And yes I like my 46. 😉
Your project 300 boost mod has inspired me to consider boosting the power of my QB-88 I’ve got the stripper to get it down to bare wood and I’m gonna do it up like my QB-36 with Old English furniture polish for stain and about 4-6 coats of Tru-oil and rubber buttpad instead of the slick plastic original. The beartrap mechanism is already welded in place and I don’t have to worry about the recoil compensator flying apart. I’m not sure how easy finding a counterwound spring would be so I’m considering a torrington bearing to dampen torque.
Reb
The 300’s have two different types of spring setups they use.
One type is a normal single spring like most springers use.
The other type is two counter wound springs with a delrin type spacer between them. That is what type my 300 had before I replaced them.
Now I have two springs in it that are wound the same direction with the delrin spacer between them.
The counter wound springs were suppose to cancel rotational torque when the gun fires. As I said before my gun still sets rock steady on the bag when it shoots. So that is a good thing.
I’m not really familiar with the inside of the gun your talking about. But I bet you could get away with a single spring if yours has two counter wound springs.
You need to look at your inner and out spring diameter and keep it the same as well as over all spring legnth. Unless you want more or less spring preload then make the new spring shorter or longer.
You’ll just have to take it apart and see what it has now and go from there.
I’ve discovered a couple kits that say they fit it and I still have a Vortex card from the show, Josh said they could get springs and build the guides for just about anything and showed me a new product I’ve been waiting to see on here before I give it up. There’s also a QF kit for it on a budget mod.
All depends on how much I got to work with but it’s coming outta the wood so I can get that cleaned up and will be spending some quality time with it’s guts sprawled across my work bench. This gun is gonna be a we’ll massaged favorite like my Airmaster and they both love the Roundnose pellets.
If you ever want to try some funky laminated stock looks, use tattoo ink at the bare wood stage. It doesnt just soak in to boldly but can be tailored by giving a prime of a little oil then sanding to do fade ins and whatever color you like.
My brother is a tattoo artist and has all the talent and equipment to do that if I was so inclined but I’m looking for a minimalistic appearance, just wanna make the grain stand ot and get it the right color before sealing it.
RDNA
You went off to your other world and never did tell me how that blood vein stock came out.
You do remember us talking about the custom stock of wanted you to make for me don’t you.
Yes I absolutely remember and now would be the perfect time to do something like that. I believe your in my email, ill check (kids lost our phone over the summer so the numbers gone) but ill email you or email me larsonfam888 at yahoo
I looked for an ACCURATE in .22 but never found one,
If you want a .22 Springer check out the Ruger Impact! It’s got a n awesome trigger that shouldn’t take much work to satisfy the most finicky connisuer and more power than necessary in tame form. And mine cost under $150 my biggest problem with it now is that I don’t have more range for testing it.
I’m too frustrated to deal with auto correct right now so moving on.
Reb,
/product/gamo-accu-air-rifle-premium-combo?m=3799
The ACCU is a slightly improved CFX which IMHO is the best that Gamo has built so far. The only issue I ever had with mine was hold sensitivity.
That and I had taken it as far as it would go. Time for something else.
I have pretty much figured that if I was going to buy a budget sproinger, I was going with the Stoeger X20S.
All the reviews on it say that once you fix the trigger, it is an awesome shooter.
I think the reason I have not bought one as of yet is I am holding out for the top shelf bunch like the TX or LGU or LGV or HW.
I really only see one more sproinger and one more PCP in my collection.
I finally found the .22 at the bottom of the description. It usually gives the caliberoption s at the top so I guess that’s why I missed it.
900fps is good for .22 and I liked the CFR but I only ever saw it in .177.
Hi folks,
I am still a little puzzled by my Diana 31P’s “consumption” of main springs. The first (F)-spring and export-spring may have suffered from over-oiling and occasional dry-firing.
But now, I’ve broken another (F)-spring and another export spring has become so short and crooked that it hardly produces (F)-power anymore. I did not dry-fire the gun and oiling was just enough to make it cock smoothly and I didn’t even get a smell or light smoke while shooting.
Now I’ve mailed Diana because of this and they told me that export springs may actually lose power after as few as 5000 shots (they didn’t address my F-spring breaking problem).
I can’t quite believe this. Don’t other people easily get 20.000 or 30.000 shots out of a mainspring, even in powerful guns?
My HW45 is really powerful for its size and smokes with every shot (it doesn’t detonate) and the spring doesn’t seem to be losing any power yet.
I’m not sure I want to shell out € 80 for a tuning kit at the moment (even though they’re probably worth it). Will one of the better aftermarket springs give me the full benefit if I keep the original spring guide?
I like the (F)-spring for its lower noise level and the export spring because the rifle vibrates less. Theoretically, I could use the spring for the Diana 280 as a middle ground because, as far as I know, it has the same action as the 31/34 but less power.
Do you think it’s necessary to “set” the spring outside of the rifle before installing it to reduce canting and wear?
What do the experts think?
Kind regards,
Stephan
Stephan
I have heard BB say in the past that the Diana springs have been known to break. Possibly to hard or something.
Here’s something to think about. I don’t know if you have been paying for replacement springs or not. Butt if you have been you could probably be at about the cost of a tune kit with a spring that comes in the kit.
I have only had good benefits from the Vortek kits. Not trying to tell you what to do but I myself would get the tune kit. I do believe you will be happy.
Stephan,
The Diana mainsprings used to break all the time. They typically broke about 25mm from each end. They are over-hard and shatter. I though Diana fixed the problem, but apparently not.
Yes — get an aftermarket spring. And now that you know how to take all the vibration out of your rifle, do that when you replace the spring.
A good mainspring should give at least 10K shots. Diana springs used to break within 1K shots. I guess they still do.
B.B.
*to clarify, when I wrote “full benefit”, I meant spring life. Obviously, it won’t behave as smoothly without the full tune.
To break any mainspring aftermarket or oem so early and repeatably is not normal at all. Is it the proper size spring width wise? Is the spring guide unusually short? You’ve been shooting it, what did it feel like on the way to kicking the bucket?
RDNA,
thanke for the input :-)=
The springs were sold as original Diana springs for the 31/34 so they should be the correct size. Piston, spring guide etc. are all original parts as well.
The F-springs just broke off at some point so the gun made a grinding noise while cocking. The export springs (original Diana springs as well) gradually got weaker until the power was very low.
Pretty strange, isn’t it? 5000 shots really doesn’t seem like much.
Stephan
Well, I *believe* they are Diana springs… Diana confirmed they deliver springs to the shop where I got them. So the question is whether they sell other springs as well without declaring them as such 🙂
Bb says they used to do that and thought it was fixed, maybe those were on the shelf a while.
Oh, you’re talking to BB right now? 🙂
So, who used to do what? Were shops selling non-original springs or was Diana using different kinds of springs (from different manufacturers, maybe)?
I admit my own statement above isn’t very clear either 🙂
Stephan
Lol, yes, so are you! I know it was stupid to say he said when it was you he said it to, :/ , I was repealing just to making the statement off of what he said that the shop maybe had the springs since before they fixed the composition of them.
*Repeating, I have an auto correct that doesnt correct.
I’ve tried to eliminate every trace of autocorrect on this phone; it always creeps in and I spend as much time dodging it as I do talking.
it would be useful to try these in a cartridge loader like the Nagant revolver…to see if their slight undersizing causes an issue fitting into the “shell”, I also get a feeling they will go well in the breech sealed/higher velocity BB pistol like that.
Dom,
I did that. The Colt SAA was Part 3 of this report.
B.B.
B.B.,
I’ve been away for awhile so I don’t know if you’ve tried these BBs in a fully automatic gun such as the M712. If not give them a try in one.
G&G
G&G,
Full auto is something I haven’t tried.
B.B.
Good call, that’s one I hope to be able to afford before it’s gone!
Bb, what were the size of the groups for the umarex bbs and the daisy s without the high flyer each had? They look very close.
RDNA,
The group sizes are given in the paragraph before the picture of the group and also in the caption.
B.B.
Those numbers include the flyers? Usually you say something like ” the group was —, but 9 shots went into —” , without the flyers I thought they looked pretty close.
B.B. and all
Gents, I need info support. While production is on the way, I’m still trying to improve my design and make it simpler and cheaper to make.
The thing I need to study is Steyr LG110 cocking lever, the flat thing with a curved slot in it. I need a photo of it, a good photo, made at straight angle to its surface. I dug deep into the net, but I didn’t find anything worthy (lots of small partial/angled shots and/or screenshots do not count).
So if anyone has such rifle and can be generous enough to disassemble it and make a photo, or has a photo from some previous time and can share- that would be highly appreciated. This can save me some days of reading special literature and help to make things much, much simpler 🙂
Thanks.
duskwight
With this accuracy, can someone remind me just what these bbs are for? They are too dangerous to shoot at people like airsoft and they are not as accurate as pellets. They’re interesting technology to play with but the purpose?…
B.B., you are a model of patience with this old but interesting airgun. The comment about the sights rings a bell. While playing with my surplus military rifles in my own 5 yard range, I’ve developed questions on some basic assumptions about the sights. The M1 Garand peep sights are supposed to be some of the best ever mounted on a military rifle and appear to be the model for the airgun today. They are precise and quick to acquire. But I notice that low light makes the rear aperture fuzzy. This would be a huge liability in combat where the lighting is never ideal. I’m also wondering about the reticle. The post sight can allow for a very precise 6 o clock hold. But how is it supposed to be applied to a human target which was the original purpose? I suppose the post could divide the target in half, but the shape doesn’t really correspond to anything else.
In contrast, the sights on the Lee-Enfield and Mauser are considered inferior by comparison, but they have surprising strengths. One knock against them is the small front sight which is narrow in the case of the Enfield and comes to a point for the Mauser. They are not great for precision shooting, but I’ve found that in rapid fire, it is easy to stab the end of the sight into the target and fire. And the notch rear sight of the Mauser does not get fuzzy in low light and neither does the very large rear aperture of the Enfield. My sense is that the M1 sights were optimized for accuracy. The European designs, notwithstanding their powerful cartridges, were already looking ahead to combat distances and rapid shooting that would take form in the assault rifle.
On another note, I finally tried out the Saiga/AK iron sights and they really are terrible. Not only is the sight radius short but the protective ears on the front sight are designed in such a way that its very hard to tell whether you are lining up on them or the front sight. It’s like triple vision. Perhaps this sight goes some way towards explaining AK inaccuracy. Most of the gripes against the AK design I think are either overblown as in the case of its supposed inaccuracy or else part of a total design that is really optimized for combat as efficiently as anything else, but I see nothing redeeming about this sight. I was missing everything with my dry firing. Shooting with the red dot is a complete transformation, so we are really living in the age of optics. Anyway, thus were the results of combat testing on my 5 yard range.
Also, on the subject of sights, I received my green pistol laser last night and mounted it on my CZ 75 SP-01. Yiiii. I was playing with it for a considerable time. A little childish actually, but what a piece of equipment. I also got confirmation of our conversation about how point of impact changes at different distances. The sight appears to be zeroed extremely well at the factory to coincide with my fixed sights at a combat distance of 7 feet, but at further distances, the laser rises rapidly above the sights. Incidentally, I had a thought on why the darned things cost so much. My laser that is little larger than a bottle cap is over $100! Green light has a higher wavelength than red which implies higher energy. Producing this energy on a miniature platform is going to take money.
Michael, that is an interesting point about the identity of the Ugly in The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly. Wikipedia, which I greatly respect, excels at this kind of pop culture information, and even it is confused, naming both Elie Wallach and Lee Van Cleef as the Ugly! I tend to think that something when awry in translation. Regardless, it doesn’t explain why the Ugly, whoever he is, is ugly or the other attributes either. Eli Wallach is a wild and crazy guy. Lee Van Cleef, I had supposed, has a more refined demeanor that makes him more Bad than Ugly, and that seems to be true when he is torturing Wallach. For that matter is Clint Eastwood really Good? He is a con-artist in league with Wallach although I suppose he never stoops to the depths of Lee Van Cleef. Puzzling.
As for the reassembly scene, it makes me think this was less about the guns than about a gimmick in movies which is for professional gunmen of all kinds to assemble their weapons. Movie snipers are not just people who shoot at long range but who also assemble and disassemble their weapons. This happens in the Bourne Identity, Skyfall and is a staple of spy films. One of the iconic scenes is in From Russia With Love where Sean Connery is running away from a helicopter. While under attack, he assembles a rifle and shoots down the helicopter. It wasn’t until I learned about guns that I realized that his weapon was the AR-7 Explorer, a rimfire weapon! So, it doesn’t do to look too much into the details of movies.
Matt61
Matt,
Some more on movie details.
Taking a chopper with .22? No problem for 007. You might be surprised, but on classic 007 posters, Bond is carrying some long-barreled pistol, which is, actually, a very low-powered airgun – LP53. And still he kicks 😉
And on inappropriate sniper rifles – Han “Shot First” Solo’s iconic DL-44 heavy blaster was a real deal “sniper”C-96 Mauser fitted with a scope, Funny thing is, that it was not a pistol scope, and scope was not Lucas’ invention. It was an already used prop, filmed in Naked Runner and Sitting target.
http://antiqueoutings.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/The-Naked-Runner-Sinatra-C96-Mauser.jpg
http://antiqueoutings.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Sitting-Target-Oliver-Reeves-C96-Mauser.jpg
And to turn it into blaster, they made it to be a machine-gun-sniper C96, adding MG81 flash supressor.
duskwight
Matt61
So you like your green laser I see.
Yep like mine too. And just a little heads up. If you got a car setting in the garage that has headlights that have all those reflective angles biult into it. Don’t shine the laser at it. You’ll have a laser show in your garage. And watch out so it don’t reflect into your eyes.
Remember that song that says “blinded by the light”. Yep it will get you.
George Clooney ” The American”, Mark Whalberg in “Shooter”, Bruce Willis – “The Jackel”, – good gun flicks with spotlights on assembly.
I’ve had very good luck with Beeman Perfect Rounds lead BB’s in Crosman 2100 and Daisy 880 which are a little hard to load with pellets when a scope is mounted. The 880 would feed them through the magazine. I’ve also used them in a 1377 with 14 inch barrel, shoulder stock, scope and steel breech. Very accurate at 2 pumps for quiet backyard shooting. The Gamo lead BB’s run a little smaller and aren’t quite as accurate.
I wonder how copper plated lead BB’s would work in a Daisy 499B?
Interesting series of tests. Do you have any idea how the entire “Excite” range of pellets and BB’s came to be? I notice that on H&N’s website they have them listed separately from the rest of their line (including their other copper plated lead round balls which are slightly larger in diameter). At first I thought that it was set up as their low cost line of ammunition but the Excite line includes products which seem to be unique to it. For example, the cylindrical Dynamic and the Apollo which appears to be partly made of a polymer. I was wondering if the took over another company or bought someone else’s production equipment or product line.
I’d be willing to bet they’re only putting enough lead in the mix to give that appearance, the rest is lightweight cut of some kind. I don’t have anything to weigh individual pellets and so far I’ve found no weight but they’re light, fast and hard.
Amazingly I went to check this statement after posting and found a weight of 7.48 grains there. but nothing on the tins.
Nowhere,
The Smart Shot BBs were requested by Pyramyd AIR. H&N could always make them and did make them, but Pyramyd AIR realized that they were needed now.
B.B.
Hi B.B.,
How Umarex MORPH 3X CO2 Pistol & Rifle keeps the BBs in place for shooting? It requires a magnet or not? If affirmative can I use those BBs (H&N Excite Smart Shot , Copper Plated Lead BBs) in this airgun or they will roll out of the barrel whenever I tilt it down? I red your recommendation when using those BBs in a 499.
Tks in advance, from Portugal
Carlos,
The Morph uses a spring-loaded magazine the pushes the BBs up to the top where they are blown into the barrel with each shot.
No magnet is needed.
B.B.