by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Haenel 310 is a different kind of trainer.
This report covers:
- A few new IZH 61’s!
- 4.4mm copper-plated lead balls
- Smart Shot BBs
A few new IZH 61’s!
Before we begin I want to tell you that Pyramyd Air just got a small shipment of new IZH-61 rifles from another dealer. These won’t last long, so now is the time to act!
Today is accuracy day for the Haenel 310. I was not able to locate the unplated 4.4mm lead balls I have, so I will only be shooting two types of ammo today. The distance will be 5 meters and the target will be an NRA 15-foot air rifle target — which is to say a BB-gun target. While the 310 is rifled, it is not quite as accurate as the Daisy 499 Challenger, so 5 meters is a good distance to shoot. I shot off the UTG Monopod, and before anyone asks — yes, that is just as stable as shooting from a sandbag rest. The magazine only holds 6 shots, so I loaded 5 balls at a time and shot two magazines of each type of ammo at a target.
I was surprised by how light the trigger feels. It breaks at 3 lbs. 3 oz. and on a simple rifle like this I would expect it to be twice that much. It’s two stage, which I prefer.
4.4mm copper-plated lead balls
First to be tested were the German 4.4mm copper-plated lead balls. I bought 30,000 of them (60 tins) when I bought my first 310 in the 1990s, and despite getting rid of several rifles, I kept the balls. So, I have what might be described as a lifetime supply. They serve other purposes, such as shooting in vintage BB guns that were made to shoot 0.175-inch lead BBs, so there is always a use for them.
The first shot landed to the left of the 6-o’clock aim point by about a quarter inch and then the balls kept going to the same place. When I finished, there were 10 balls in a group measuring 0.664-inches. For a BB gun it’s a fine group, but it’s not in the same class as the 499.
Ten shots rests at 5 meters with 4.4mm lead balls made this 0.664-inch group. It’s pretty good for a BB gun. but not quite in the same class as the Daisy 499.
Here is what a Daisy 499 can do with 10 shots at 5 meters when shot from a rest. Ten BBs in 0.224-inches!
Smart Shot BBs
And now for the part of the test many have been waiting for — the 310 shooting 10 H&N Smart Shot BBs. The BBs load a little easier than the 4.4mm balls, though they actually measure the same size and weigh the same. I don’t know what to make of that.
Ten Smart Shot BBs went into a group that measures 0.748-inches between centers. Pleas accept my measurements with a grain of salt, because measuring BB holes is not an exact science. I do my best and hope it turns out. Looking at the two groups I see the Smart Shot BBs seem to group a little larger, and they landed a little higher. I would say, yes, Smart Shot BBs will work just fine in a Haenel 310 or any other BB gun that uses 4.4mm lead balls.
The Haenel 310 put 10 H&N Smart Shot BBs into this 0.748-inch group at 5 meters.
This Haenel 310 I got from Mac is a little tired and the velocity isn’t as stable as it should be. Someone suggested that if I shot it more it might stabilize, and that might be correct. But in my experience with several 310s, they will never equal the accuracy of the Daisy 499 at 5 meters. Of all the 4.4mm rifles, though, the 310 must be one of the best.
62 thoughts on “Haenel 310 bolt action trainer: Part 3”
THANK YOU! B.B.!! My Haenel 310 looks different from the photo only on the lower in front of the trigger guard? I don’t have that metal looking projection out of the bottom of the woodstock! Kinda looks like part of a magazine? Don’t know what you call it on your rifle? Maybe a newer or older 310 than the one that I have! I also have FPS faster than yours and seems be more accurate with those lead balls including my 4.4mm lead balls! It is a very light trigger and a very enjoyable rifle to shoot! My wife likes it very much herself! It just feels right and feels good! Thank you again for your efforts! I think probably may have better feedback/interest on this subject if more airgunners had older or more trainers? Who know? Semper Fi!!
That projection is the bottom anchor point for the bolt. Your stock must be deeper than mine and the anchor is hidden.
Not a bad little rifle there. Who knows, maybe one of them might just find a home up on my ridge.
I’m jealous of the groups you can get with your 310. I currently have three 310’s, including one with the same “target” trigger as your 310-8 Super, and they are all difficult for me to shoot. They seem to be the most hold sensitive airguns I have ever used. The ammo is not the problem – Diana copper plated balls. I can get the POI to change 1 to 2 inches just by changing my hold.
Is there any trick to getting these to group? Thanks.
Paul in Liberty County
I would have to say the trick must be the monopod. But I have always gotten this sort of accuracy from 310s — even before the monopod.
Been busy at work and home so haven’t had much extra time.
But that is some nice groups. And I’m going to ask one of them Gunfun1 questions again.
Since you had many of these. Have you ever tryed shooting them out at farther distances? Do you think they might be a aluminum can killer at 20 yards? Told you. You know me. I like to try to push the limit on products. But anyway. Just wondering.
My BSA is great at killing feral soda cans at 25 yards. I see no reason this should not be able to do such, especially with that rear sight.
Kind of thinking the same about the 310.
And since we’re talking plinking/mini sniping. I got my AirVenturi dual paddle steel spinners today. Three of them. And nothing like adding to my yard targets; their like everywhere now. And also got my black 1377 with the 1399 stock and steel breech today. Still waiting on the .177 Discovery barrel for it though.
And man them steel spinners really show the power of your gun. The Tx knocks them spinning pretty good. The Talon SS I can’t count how many times any more that it spins. And don’t even ask hen I shoot the .25 Marauder at them. The spinner spins for like 5 minutes. Not really just seeing if your listening. But really that .25 Marauder hirs the spinner so hard it’s spinning fast. And it really does take about 3 or so seconds to stop. And they are at 35 yards and out.
Anyway fun plinking for sure. Yep .25 caliber plinking. 🙂 🙂
Sounds fun. Working on tank selection currently. Then compressor.
Did the LGU at 70 yds. last weekend. Popped a steel can of it’s prop about 2′ and it nestled itself into the leaves with only a little silver showing. Next shot,…. nailed it. Fun, fun,…can’t wait to see what a .25 M-rod will do.
Did some rather “heated” chili last weekend,….so I got a few cans to position at different yardages.
880 arrow/bolt “refinement” this weekend. I will post anything I get going,…good or bad.
Ain’t that the funest stuff when you hit them cans out at them distances. I love it.
And just wondering. What is the reason behind wanting a tank. Let me know because I got a few reasons why I don’t want to use a tank. And again just me from what I have exsperianced.
Chili. Heated? At different yardages?
What? Don’t tell me it’s to hot for ya and its going out in the yard. Oh but don’t say it’s so.
And here is something I thought was interesting.
No, no too hot. 2 hand (full) of hot chilies that included Habanero, Serrano, Cayenne, Lemon and Cowhorn, all hotter than a Jalapeno. Just right I would say. I did eat some store bought jerky yesterday at work that WAS my upper limit.
As for tanks, imports can be overrated for what they actually are and there is better hoses too. Fittings and valve quality and materials can vary too.
If going with a full auto compressor, I wanted a tank to take outside.
As for the sling shot, I could not get the P.A. site up. I got here through a saved “favorite” and backed in from there. Out for a few, back in afternoon.
That sling-bow is pretty cool and makes sense. Meant to say “not too hot” above. Got the shrink on fletches today. Wow, that archery stuff is expensive. 75-150 for set of arrows that are not nocked or have any insert to accept a tip.
Anybody that has a link to a good arrow building site with (all) the parts,…it would be appreciated. I did not turn up much. Hope to shoot it today or tomorrow.
Had to get a different battery for my phone yesterday. It finally got tired and didn’t want to work anymore. All charged up and going now though.
But yep thought maybe you would like the arrow shooting sling shot.
Nothing about air guns or any guns today. A little Barbara Streisand in the night …
Off topic question:
The paintball field has chronographs that read the speed of 68 caliber paint balls in feet per second. I know they read up to 400 fps, but didn’t test higher.
There are NO sky screens. It appears to be a big radar gun.
The paintball shop can order handheld units that look like a big calculator with a camera lens on the back.
Any idea what technology those chronographs use, and whether it would work for pellets in the 850-950 fps range ?
Sounds to me like it is a radar gun that converts mph to fps.
I would like to know more about them. Or maybe a link to the manufacturers site.
Sounds cool to me.
This may be what you have seen. And there has been other similar types I have seen in videos chronying air soft guns.
Sorry link didn’t post.
Wow, I think I’m in love.
I was just reading a report on the IWA Show and they had a picture of a Diana 340 N-Tech Luxus air rifle with a beautiful tiger stripe walnut stock. I think I know what my next air rifle is going to be.
BB, I am not so sure anymore that you should get the P44. You might want to take a look at the FWB P8X. 😉
The Pyramyd Air website has been down awhile and may have stopped your comments from coming through. The site is now back up and I believe you can make comments again.
Let’s see if my comment goes through or not.
So, I have lived to see the day when the IZH 61 went from being cheap and plentiful to becoming a collector’s item. Argh. Now it is just like the military surplus rifles I have collected so carefully over the years. But for once in my life I actually read the market properly and laid in an extra rifle before the ban went into effect. Meanwhile, a secret source has helped me assemble a lifetime of parts so that the rifle will never fail me. It is the trainer for the AK platform I am convinced.
Love to see those 5 yard tests. And that is nice shooting. My B30 was able to achieve some of those groups which told me that the scope is working again, and very satisfying it was.
I finally saw the Quigley bucket shot on YouTube. It’s a well-played scene. However, the real star of the show for me was not Tom Selleck but Alan Rickman. Selleck has always seemed to me a little bland in his beefcake role, but Rickman in his villain roles is hilarious. It’s only fair to appreciate the man after his recent passing. I love the final showdown in the film where Rickman says something like: Mr. A and Mr. B will ensure that this is a fair contest. Now, take a couple steps left. That puts you right at my old pistol target. And, by the way, you’re fired.”
And you owe it to yourself to see Rickman as the over-the-top Sheriff of Nottingham in the Kevin Costner film, Robin and Marian. With Robin and the Merry Men attacking his castle, Rickman is trying to force the captive Maid Marian into marrying him. With a witch-like women threatening him, a bishop asks Marian, “Do you take this man to be your husband?,” to which Rickman replies (muffling her mouth) “Of course she does.” Then he has this exchange with his new bride.
Marian: You may imprison by body, but never my spirit.
Some critics thought he overdid it. But I thought he was fabulous.
Pretty good shooting for this particular gun!
I have always figured that my 310 had more potential than how it performed in my hands. I have had a LOT more experience shooting air long guns since I last shot my 310, so I really ought to dust it off, oil it up, and give it (and me) another, ahem, shot.
I also shot it using only the unplated lead balls I purchased with the gun, so Smart Shot might help me be a slightly better shot.
Thanks for this series,
I’m just back from a local gun show. Always a great way to spend a few hours on a Saturday at the end of winter. There was nothing there in the way of airguns. I did find a Remington Nylon 66 “Black Diamond” .22 rifle. This version of the 66 was made from 1978 till 1987. It’s one of the more rare 66’s. Well, this one was near new and was priced at $350.00. They were a lot less that that in “87” for sure! I offered $300.00 and he said $325.00, just a bit of the normal gun show dealing. We settled on $315.00. Not bad for a rifle worth $450.00 or more to the right person. It was a good day! Nylon 66’s are a favorite of mine.
That $450 price is a solid one. That’s what the Black Diamond 66s go for. You did well.
They sure were a lot less back then ! Back in the day ( late 1970’s 80’s) we considered Remington Nylons throw away ,rough .22’s, for the canoe or swamps while trapping furbearers. You know, a .22 that was very reliable but nothing to fret over if it went over the side . Who knew. Funny how things change…
I know what you mean. We didn’t really think that much of them back in the day. Rem. 66’s were really ahead of their time. They are shooters. I have a friend that has had one since the 1960’s. Other than running a rod through the barrel a time or two, it’s never been cleaned and still runs. He lived on a farm and it was used hard! It looks like too it but still works. Three years ago, I used one with a Red Dot Sight to win our local Ruger Rimfire Challenge. I enjoyed out shooting the tricked out 10/22’s with it. 🙂
Back down memory lane we go!
When I was a teen, a friend had one. I seem to recall some duct tape on the fore stock to help hold it together. It was a pretty decent little squirrel rifle.
I never did warm up to a 10/22.
Yes, those nylon guns worked ,and were common farm guns where I lived then..I got to laugh at a lot of the 10-22 mods I’ve seen . One time I added up what the average promising 10-22 would cost to mod for better accuracy, and decided that i’d be better off buying a better gun to start with for that, and I did. Most folks won’t get enough out of their modification efforts to justify the cost , as most only shoot/ hunt at short ranges with .22RF . As for real field use, it’s a waste of money and time that would be better served by practicing better woodsmanship .That said, I like the 10-22 and it is what I did go to for my own use for a reliable field gun for rough use. I ‘ve been known to shove mine into the muck up to the pistol grip so it wouldn’t fall over while I set a trap .I think the magazine is the best and most reliable one ever designed for a auto -loading .22RF , and spares are easy to come by and sit flush with the belly of the stock. I have little use for the extended plastic versions for any use that I would put mine too. If you have ever used a tube magazine .22RF rifle around a boat or water and dropped or launched it overboard ,you will know what I mean.
Robert from arcade
Those 66’s were also the easiest autos to load single shot. Just put left side down, put a 22 LR in the ejection port well and svap the bolt. Goes right in.
880 multi pump arrow/bolt firing update:
Well, I said I would post results, good, bad or ugly. The test landed somewhere in the latter category.
Compared to a 66# bow, the 880 had 1/3 the power (” drop/yd.) The bow will fire a 250 grain arrow and the arrow will drop 20″ in 30 yds. when a (leveled) shot is taken . ( .67″ drop per yd.)
The 880 barrel (was leveled) and was 40″ from the ground. The arrow went 20 yds. before it hit the dirt/grass. (2.0″ drop per yd.)
The arrow/bolt weighs 245 grains and through some backward calculations (based on the drop rate), the arrow was going around 100 fps. The bow will fire a 250 grain arrow at 295 fps. (again, 1/3)
The arrow/bolt calculated out at a little over 5.4 fpe. The bow will generate around 48 fpe.,…..(880 being 1/8 of the bow)….so that extra 200 fps. makes some difference!
The arrow/bolt is 10 1/8″ long and alum. shafted. (2315) A carbon shaft would lessen the weight and may be one option to improve results. Then comes the balancing act and getting the FOC, (front of center), right.
Bottom line, I had fun and learned a lot about arrow balancing and building as well as heads, fletches and weights. There is still the darts to perfect and of course it will still shoot bb’s and pellets.
That’s all folks. 🙂 Chris
That’s definitely a much more scientific approach than I used with my 760!
I believe the short bolts are robbing you of power much like pneumatic guns work best with longer barrels.
Yea, I definitely dusted off the ol’ math skills that’s for sure! The limiting factor on length of arrow was how much of the barrel was exposed after the shroud cut. I wanted the air blast to hit the back of the head directly,…and not fill up empty tube before pressurizing. Longer arrows would be much worse.
The conversations in the past that dealt with going longer dealt with darts I believe and balance. The same theories would apply. Rule of thumb is the finished arrow should balance out at 9-15% (ahead) of the measured center. EX: 10″ arrow, measured center is 5″. When balanced, the arrow balances at 1″ ahead of the measured center, or, 10%. If you break down the weight by 1/16ths. of an inch, you can do the same thing and is helpful when swapping heads and fletches of different weights to predict what the effects on balance will be. That’s were a grain scale comes in handy. The arrow/bolt did fly well as the FOC % was 13.6 %.
How many pumps did you use?
12,…it just ain’t spittin’ out enough air. Some mods. can be done, but I think it was only a 60 fps. gain without rechecking.
Does the arrow shaft fit the barrel precisely? Can you feel air blow back at you when you shoot?
If so maybe you could place a o-ring at the muzzle end of the barrel. That way all the air will be used to move the arrow.
Covered that. There is a .007′ diff. in od and id. Scotch invisible is .004″ doubled over. I started with 1 wrap and then went to 2, on muzzle end,which should have provided a .001″ interference. It was nice and the tape has a slick surface. O-ring would be ok, but require machining. No blowback at all.
Also could you feel any air blow back at the breech area where you would normally load a pellet. If no air blow back there it sounds like 880 just ain’t blowing enough air then.
Maybe when you get that Marauder you can unscrew the shroud and try something with it. It will definitely move more air than the 880.
I bet the darts is going to be the limmit on the 880.
🙂 I like the way you think! As it turn out, there is some sealing tips,…of which,…involves the sealing of the bb loading port/entry and also the pellet loading area. (although, the pellet door must be open to pump,…so not sure on that one) Easy enough. Buldawg76 provided me with a few links to 880 mods.. Options are somewhat limited and showed 100 fps increase with pellets at best.
As for an M-rod mod,….if I could get some serious amount of barrel exposed,…I would apply the same principals as the 880. Well,.. that and finding the right shaft and accessories to make it balance. That arrow stuff ain’t cheap! Plus id’s are not advertised from what I have seen on shafts, which is critical when going over a barrel.
But yea, it ain’t puttin’ out enough air,… at a fast enough rate,…at a high enough pressure.
It was fun though and learned a lot.
When you take the shroud off of a Marauder the whole barrel is exsposed except for the part that’s in the breech of course.
On tanks,…..you had some thoughts? You can E me or share here. Pro’s and Con’s from an experienced air gunner are always appreciated,…if I were to guess.
On the tanks it’s mostly about how it creates a longer run time on your filling equipment which also creates heat. Which does take its toll eventually no matter what kind of HPA pump you have.
And what I like about filling the guns directly from the Shoebox or fill device is it takes less time at the end of the day. In other words if I’m shooting 2 pcp guns it only takes me about 11 minutes to top the 2 guns off at the end of the day.
The small Benjamin buddy bottle takes 50 minutes to fill at the end of the day. Plus the pump has to work harder because I have to fill the bottle to 4500 psi so there is enough air to get multiple fills down to the guns 3000 psi average fill pressure. When I fill the guns directly from the Shoebox I only have to fill to the guns fill pressure that I determined. Like at the most let’s say 3400 psi.
So to me it’s just easier to do the guns instead of the tank. And when you fill a tank. No matter what fill device you choose. Your suppose to stop to let the bottle and equipment cool down. Not that it biulds a lot of heat. But it does make some.
So that’s all just me again. I’m sure other people have their preferences and why. All I know is since I have been filling the guns directly from the Shoebox verses feeling the Benjamin buddy bottle I have not had to do maintenance as far as o-ring replacement on the Shoebox. It’s just easier on the equipment like I said earlier.
Nice info on the M-rod. However,….the barrel od on the 880 seems to pushing the upper limits on arrow shaft (id),…and that’s .177″. (.302″ od) I think I would have to get REAL creative on shaft (id) size on an .25 M-rod air-bow. The carbon fiber, which is what the Pioneer is offered with, are smaller od, which probably means a smaller id. I did however find a carbon shaft that did measure a .304″ id at the gun store, which would be better for the .177″.
Moved to bottom.
You should try a blank with no fletching so you can slide more arrow over the barrel to see what I’m talking about and then maybe you’ll come up with some retractable fletches.
After the shroud cut, the barrel had movement but you could tell it was still firmly in the action. I put epoxy at the cut point to re-support the shroud to barrel point. It worked well and the barrel is quite stiff,…for what it is,…as I am sure you know since you have been “in” a gun or two. The tube stops there and the fletches do not touch anything at all, ever.
I recently purchased a .22 Benjamin Marauder along with a UTG 30mm Accushot 4-16×44 mil dot scope and BKL 30 mm rings. The gun was hitting to the right of the intended target. To bring the point of impact to the left where it needed to be, it required turning the windage adjustment knob 36 clicks (basically 1/2 turn around the dial). I’m pretty sure that’s not too much of an adjustment, but was wondering, how many full turns around the dial is too many times around? Same question with elevation. How many revolutions around is too many revolutions. Windage and elevation adjustments must max out at some point, I was wondering if you could approximate where that might be.
I have the 3-12 version of yours. Nice scopes. As for limits, I did check full range on W and E and if I remember correct, the W had about 2 full turns range and the E had about 7 full turns. The manual says to turn the lock rings only 40-70 degrees at which point they can still turn pretty hard. I asked BB and he said he turns them about a full turn and I have done that ever since. Much easier to turn. Go easy and you will feel it get tighter at about a full turn, so go 3/4 or 270 degree. Oh yea, I called Leapers/UTG and they said their turrets come centered within the full up/out and full down/in. As for your 36 clicks,….better in than out,.. but you should be fine.
There is no answer for your question. Some scopes, like those from Leapers, have 100 minutes of adjustment in both directions. Some only have 40 minutes. It depends on the scope.
I would say 1/2 turn of the dial is nowhere near too far.
That would be good to know from the manufacturer for just such situations, as in the above question. A scale below the turret with green,…going to red,…would be another good indicator. Just some thoughts.
I was thinking the results you would got with the arrows was not going to be as you had hoped for since the 880 is only capable of a small amount of air for firing a pellet. I was pretty sure it would not have near the volume of air required to push a 245 grain arrow but did not want to say so until you got your testing done.
I believe you had all the mods correct to work good except for the required volume of air to push the arrow fast enough for decent velocity
The Mrod as GF1 suggested would definitely do it and you would need a arrow with a 7/16″ ID for a 177 or 22 barreled Mrod.
Thanks for not “squishing” my dreams too early. 😉 I learned a lot along the way. 7/16″ huh? I suppose the .25 would be bigger than that? Sounds like I better stop looking at the arrow sites, and start looking at the electrical conduit sites!!!!!
Thanks for the tech. data…..good as always,…..Chris
In all of this, something came to mind,……the Pioneer,…shooting full length 375 grain carbon arrows,…MUST have a smaller barrel od to accept the smaller id of the carbon shaft. Essentially,… a .177 barrel with the power of a M-rod. 7/16″ sounds big for that though. The added power of the M-rod must dictate a thicker barrel, I would think. Unless,…the Pioneer is NOT an over-barrel design? Either way,….. interesting.
Not a problem as I knew you would gain a lot of knowledge in your testing of the arrow gun.
The disco, 22xx and 13xx guns as well as the 177 and 22 Mrod all use a 7/16″ OD barrel and the 25 Mrod is a 1/2″ OD barrel. I don’t have a clue as what the normal size of arrow shafts are nowadays, but I would think 7/16″ would indeed be overkill for sure.
The pioneer air bow uses likely proprietary arrows made by crosman for the gun exclusively so it very well could have a 7/16′ OD barrel. It is not a matter of having to be that big of an OD to withstand the pressures the Mrods or most any PCP gun produces and exhausts thru the barrel as the barrel on the 880 would be capable of being used on the air bow quite easily and safely in my opinion.
I am not sure but do believe the air bow is an over the barrel design like your test setup is so it may accept standard arrows with slight modification. The only way to be sure is to get your hands on one to inspect or BB to test one for us to determine if it has a proprietary size barrel and arrows or can be used with conventional arrows.
Looking at the crosman site the arrows show to have a hollow shaft with a guide/seal of sorts at the rear of it behind the fletching and its hard to tell but look to be a standard size for what little I know about arrows. take a look yourself and see what you think but I know this at 99 bucks apiece they better last a lifetime.
Looked again,…they look normal in every way. I would bet it is similar to the .302″ od barrel like on the 880. The local shop had 6 carbon shaft with nothing on either end that had an id of .304″ for 75$. Of all the carbon shaft arrows, those were that fattest. Not sure on the seal at the rear end. It could be guide as well. One thing I know for sure, it also adds weight and some additional weight may have been reqd. for that 9-15% FOC ratio. At 99$ for 6 finished arrows is not too out of line from what I have seen. In fact, many finished sets were more than that. As for durability, I do not think they would hold up any better than any other carbon arrow.
You know more on the ” normal ” for an arrow than I do since the last arrows I shot were wood or possibly aluminum and I used a recurve bow as I cannot even be sure compound bows were in use then and cross bows were just gaining some popularity. Yep I am an old fart.
I thought it was 99 bucks for one arrow as I did not see the quantity of 6 anywhere in the listing on the crosman site so while better than a price for one arrow I will stick to pellets that we can buy in tins of 500. Yea I doubt they are any more durable than any other arrow as I have no clue what ” ICE ” technology is that would be better than carbon fiber..
So, less wear on pump. Something to consider. I do not have the indoor shooting bench like you have. So,. “going outside” is a consideration for me. (dragging out a pump and cord -vs- just a tank)
Still, air is air,…use is use,….so it seems that it would all balance out,…tank or direct fill. Maybe wrong thinking?
I shoot outside too. I don’t shoot in the breezway all the time.
If I’m outside shooting my pcp guns or out in the woods I just come back in hook up the gun and take a shooting break or I set down and shoot the spring guns while I’m watching the guns fill up.
But the buddy bottle is nice if your out and don’t want to stop shooting. Plus I’m usually shooting a spring gun along with the pcp guns. So then the bottle does last longer if you put the spring gun in the mix. The only thing I didn’t like about the buddy bottle was filling it at the end of the day. I always shoot till the sun goes down. So by then it supper time and I’m ready to eat. So the buddy bottle was something that always took some time to fill back up so it was ready for the next time. That’s what I didn’t like about it.
Thanks for the perspective. Been thinking of a patio door to the woods side. Decked? Enclosed? Heated? A/C? Mmmmmm????
😉 , Chris
Now your talk’n.
Very interesting research. How about using a air compressor of the tire fill/air tool type connected to a piece of straight tubing of the right diameter and length to fit inside the arrow. Valve could be standard twist type for proof of principle…..just thinking
Interesting. I do not however have an air compressor. I HAVE fired a 16 penny framing nail through both sides of a plastic trash can with 125 psi and the right sized tubing about 36″ long. Used masking tape to make up the fit and a full flow blow gun nozzle.
Darts are another story. Much lighter, in the 30-35 grain range and will penetrate 3/4″ pine 3/4″+ @ 24′. The dart balance is much trickier in that it is tuff to control the tip weight. The rear end I have down with shrink tubing sized right to the barrel. Think bellows expansion.
Yes,….it was fun. That’s me,….always looking to do what ain’t been done,….or,… trying to copy something else, with limited means. The fun thing is that you learn by actual hands on experience.
Thanks for following,…… Chris