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Hunting Hatsan 85 MOBU Sniper Combo: Part 2

Hatsan 85 MOBU Sniper Combo: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Hatsan 85
Hatsan 85 Mossy Oak Break Up rifle.

Part 1

This report covers:

  • Hatsan has potential
  • Hatsan is conservative
  • RWS Superdomes
  • H&N Baracuda Match
  • Crosman SSP pellets
  • Trigger pull
  • Cocking effort
  • Scope base
  • Summary

Man, did I ever bump the beehive with this report! Part 1 certainly got a rise out of a lot of you. And you said what was on your mind. I bet you are the kind of guys who would tell me that my dog is ugly, too.

Okay, I’m rooting for the Hatsan 85 Mossy Oak Break Up rifle that I’m testing. Why? Because according to the advertised specs, it puts out a little more power than an RWS 34 (remember — we aren’t calling them Dianas any longer), yet sells in this combo package for 50 dollars less than just an RWS 34P, by itself. If this rifle is accurate, we have a potential world-beater on our hands.

Hatsan has potential

I know that Hatsan is conservative with their advertised velocities. And, from shooting their precharged rifles, I also know they can be quite accurate. What has never come together for me is power and accuracy in the same Hatsan spring rifle. PCPs, yes, but never springers. At least not for me — yet.

The other thing I haven’t seen until this test is a Quattro trigger in a springer that was smooth, crisp and light. I reported to you in Part 1 that this one is very nice, and today we will find out just what that means.

Today is velocity day, and I want to get to it. I also want to show you the scope dovetails and scope stop that’s built into this rifle, because someone asked about it. I won’t get to the scope until a later report, because this rifle does have open sights that I plan on testing in the first accuracy test., but I can at least show you the base.

Hatsan is conservative

Hatsan advertises this model at 1,000 f.p.s. in the .177 caliber I am testing. If this were any other maker I would expect to see that with the lightest pellets, only, but Hatsan USA CEO, Blaine Manifold (I still think that is the perfect name for somebody in the airgun business!) told me they test their guns with real-world pellets. So we can expect to see more than 1,000 f.p.s. with some of the super-lightweights. I will test a full span of pellet weights.

RWS Superdomes

I chose RWS Superdome pellets to represent the middle weight range. The first shot out of the rifle went 1091 f.p.s., but it was an obvious detonation. After that 10 more Superdomes averaged 984 f.p.s. The low was 967 and the high was 1002 f.p.s.. The spread was 35 f.p.s. And by the way, the Superdome is a medium-wight pellet, so Hatsan is being conservative about the power once again.

At the average velocity this 8.3-grain pellet generates 17.85 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle. That’s right where we want this airgun to be, because it’s not too overpowered to hurt accuracy.

H&N Baracuda Match

Next up was the H&N Baracuda Match pellet with the 4.50mm head. These averaged 865 f.p.s. for an energy of 17.70 foot-pounds. The low was 855 f.p.s, and the high was 870 f.p.s,. The spread was 15 f.p.s. This just might be a good pellet for this rifle.

Crosman SSP pellets

Last to be tested were some Crosman SSP hollowpoint pellets. At just 4 grains I knew they were going supersonic, but I didn’t plan on the crack they would make. I had to wear hearing protection in the office to test these pellets.

They averaged 1297 f.p.s. with a spread from 1281 f.p.s to 1319 f.p.s. The spread was 38 f.p.s. At that speed they generate 14.94 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle. Normally lighter pellets generate more energy than heavier pellets in a spring-piston gun, but this Hatsan is just backwards of that. That tells me the piston is probably on the heavy side, and heavier pellets are going to be better.

Trigger pull

I measured the trigger pull next. No matter where it is I plan to leave it as I found it because it is adjusted just the way I like it. I discovered a quirk in this trigger. The effort varies greatly, depending on how it is pulled. If you pull straight back it measures 5.lbs. 14 oz. But if you pull up as you pull back it drops to a very consistent 3 lbs. 13 oz. Obviously that was what I was feeling before.

Cocking effort

What does it take to cock the 85? Well, I was doing it with one arm, so I knew it had to be something under 40 lbs. Turned out to be 32 lbs., and I can feel that a couple of those pounds will go away as the rifle breaks in. Once again my decision to test this rifle is justified.

One thing I will mention is during cocking that little bend in the cocking link (look at the SAS picture in Part 1) sometimes peeks out of the cocking slot and disrupts my efforts to move the barrel. It happens as I am closing the barrel more than when I am cocking it.

Scope base

The last thing I will do today is show you the 11mm dovetails that are machined directly into the spring tube.

Hatsan 85 scope base


The scope base is a parallel set of dovetails cut into the spring tube. The scope stop is a block that can be repositioned for best effect.


I like what I see so far. The Hatsan 85 is powerful, but not raw as so many super-powered springs are these days. The power is good for hunting and the trigger is light and crisp. Let’s just hope the accuracy is there, too.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

87 thoughts on “Hatsan 85 MOBU Sniper Combo: Part 2”

  1. BB
    I know you said you were not going to adjust the trigger on this gun as its where you like it but I just wanted you to know it has been my experience with the spring gun Quattro triggers that the second stage screw is not long enough to be able to truly adjust the trigger to get a very distinct second stage click stop with a very crisp creep free release.

    Just installing a second stage screw 5mm longer makes all the difference in the world to transform a mediocre trigger in to a very sweet crisp trigger comparable almost to a ReKord or TX trigger in feel and crisp release.


      • Bb
        sound like you got a good one out of the box then since they normally are not as well adjusted. hopefully they are getting better with their lawyer triggers settings.

        Hope it is an accurate one as well.


        • Buldawg
          I forgot to ask. Did you do that trigger mod to your Hatsan pcp you have.

          That Hatsan pcp has a quattro trigger also. The Hatsan pcp I had was nice out of the box also. I didn’t need to adjust it. And you know I always seem to have my triggers adjusted lighter than you like. You have mentioned that you couldn’t even feel the trigger before the shot went off how i had it adjusted. All I know is a 1 pound trigger is pretty light.

          • GF1
            The trigger in the PCPs or at least my AT44 does not need longer screws installed but just adjusted to give a nice definite second stage stop with about a 8 ounce release. I am just guessing on the weight of the release but it is just as light as the 300s triggers are after I adjusted it.

            I like a light trigger as well but want to feel a definite stop at the second stage and that is what I could not feel with the 300 single spring gun I got from you was the stop at the second stage. The dual spring gun was not bad and I have not adjusted it since it does have a stop at the second stage with a light release.

            I believe my feeling in my trigger finger is not quite as sensitive as yours so on the single spring gun the transition was so slight that by the time I thought I felt the second stage it had already fired. Not a problem as it is just how I like it now so while I cannot say exactly the pull weight of it since I have no gauge to measure it with it has a definite felt stop at the second stage then any more pressure and it fires so it is not very far from where you had it set at.


  2. BB
    First I have to say that is not the same scope stop that I remembered on the Hatsan I had with the normal dovetail. The one your showing looks like it uses the Phillip head screws to secure it in different positions. That looks like it should keep the scope from sliding back. And the one I remember was a little stop that slid onto the dovetail like a scope ring does. And I’m pretty sure it secured with one Allen bolt on the side clamp.

    And the 3 pound trigger is what I remember from the break barrel and under lever I had.

    Velocity seems to be where it should be. But still waiting to see if the shot cycle will affect the groups on the gun. And 30 something pounds of cocking effort ain’t to bad.

    Oh and I probably would tell you that you had a ugly dog. But I would never ever tell you that you had a ugly cat. Just don’t think I recall ever seeing a ugly cat at that. 😉

  3. BB,

    I dont know what your dog looks like……
    There are some pretty ugly dogs on this planet, but none of em are as ugly as this Hatsan 🙂

    Why am I not suprised that the bend in the cockinglink sometimes peeps out and disrupts the actual cocking? THIS is what I meant when I ranted about the mechanical faillures of Hatsan rifles. Come on….. what are the Turks thinking?
    These kind of faillures are EXACTLY what pisses me off. You buy a new (ugly) rifle and it already has issues!!
    Guess I wont be buying a Hatsan in the next 70 years

  4. B.B.,

    Hat’s off to Hatsan testing with “real world” pellet weights and using those results in their advertising. That is a breath of fresh air. On the SAS system,… always wanting to know how and why things work,…. I spent at least a good hr. searching for more details. I ran across many things,… but 2 things were apparent,…. the SAS system has something to do with how the fore end action screws attach. The second thing was that on the right side of the stock, the screw appears normal. On the left side however, there is some sort of “protrusion” where the screw would be/is. Depending on the “zoom” pics. that P.A. offers, this is clearly shown on the Hatsan line-up that offers SAS,….while others don’t allow zoom over that area.

    Some additional info. on this would be nice if possible. If not, no problem. Just curious,..as always.

    Thanks, Chris

    (also, re-check the SSP pellet paragraph. Fpe vs fps and lighter = more power. Higher fps, but not more fp(e),.. or so I thought anyways)

      • B.B.,

        Thanks,….I had not thought of it in the context of a “given pellet”. Yup,…..if I can get a 15.89 shooting hotter than it was before,…….I have more power.

    • B.B.’s previous Hatsan report: /blog/2012/02/hatsan-125th-air-rifle-combo-part-1/ illustrated the SAS system. Basically they are trying to isolate the vibration transmitted to the stock by placing a polyurethane bushing where the fore end action bolt passes through. This is very abusive to the bolt and we found it broken after a few thousand shots. Fortunately we were able to locate a local gunsmith capable of making the oddly sized bolt (7mm).

      • Siraniko,

        Thank you. That is a bit more clear. I have been meaning to ask,….awhile back you asked if you re-publish B.B.’s reports,….and I believe you got permission to so. Do translate the article AND the comments AS WELL AS field your own comments? Just curious. If all,… is such,….thanks for spreading the “word”. That has to be a fair bit of work.

        • I only do a limited translation of the article and then post the link to the complete article. Although we have a high literacy rate most people would rather ask before reading. For the most part I only used some of our host’s articles as basis for answers then point them in the proper direction to do further research. This entails only the basics of airguns.

          • Siraniko,

            Thank you. I ran across the LD line in the Blue Book awhile back. Beautiful guns and awesome stock work and flow of line. Metal work on a few was quite nice as well.

    • Chris

      Glad to hear you are thinking of the .25 Marauder. I would go with the .25 if I was starting over. I went with the .22 because it was more quiet. You can always extend the shroud and add more baffles to the .25 if you need to quiet it down. Once you get past 40 or 50 yrs the .25 should shine over the .22.

      I also think you will shoot it more with a compressor and a tank. I have the hand pump and don’t mind pumping at all. I am over 200 lbs, mostly belly and just lean on the pump up to 3,000 psi.

      I am still working to automate my hand pump, one more old swamp cooler and I will have all the parts. Not sure why, just seems like a cool project. Not that I have time for more. Spent last Saturday making field targets. As much fun making them as shooting at them. Mine was supposed to be a ground hog but my wife said it looked more like me. Must have been the big belly.

      I have spent the last month working on a Apache Fireball Texan air rifle. I just could not throw it in the trash. I hope to get it to hold air today. I need to polish the check valve seat and that should be it.

      • Benji-Don,

        Thank you. I will get one. Looking at tank and compressor options at this point. Looking at doing a B.B. replica, but would like adj. comb. They sell ’em,….. but at around 250$. Or, some add /clip on type.

        Like you, I like “projects”. My last recent one was an arrow firing Daisy 880. Not as hoped, but I got it done and learned a lot along the way.

        Tell the wife,…..I can attest to seeing some pretty “chubby” ground hogs. Hey!!!!,…… you were just keeping it “real”,….right? 😉 Yup,…..50+ for sure! (yds. and age)

        • Chris

          I followed your arrow firing 880, sounded like fun. I finally have the apache fireball holding air. It seems to send bb’ s at a good clip. I made a weaver scope rail for it, nothing to look at but should work. The front blade is broke off and the back sight is missing. Now I am off to find some #4 buckshot and see how it shoots the heavier lead ball.

          Then I am back to my Marauder at 40 yards as soon as the weather clears. I may be getting a new barrel if my groups don’t get any better. I have been studying a couple different ones. Or I may just try a new crosman barrel and hope for a better one.


          • Don,

            I looked up your Apache in the Blue Book. Read the forward on them and looked at the variations. Interesting for sure! I would not have thrown it out either. It sounds like you have had it torn down. That’s the fun part. As for your “adaptions”, it sounds as if you are just carrying on the original production tradition. The forward on them sounds like they mixed up the parts combos fairly often. It also holds the distinction of the shortest running production air gun brand ever . 1948-49. Good luck with it.

  5. Nice report BB. It looks good so far. As I said before, it should be offered without the scope. If it shoots, I would recommend it to friends that want a good basic air rifle.


    • Big iron
      I don’t think you are going to get near 650 fps out of a 25 springer from hatsan. GF1 had a 200s that I eventually got and the best it would do with JSB 25s was just over 500 fps and was such a beast to cock and shoot it would leave you hurting and not able to hit much past 20 yards.


    • Big Iron,

      I am trying to understand the attraction of a the .25 cal considering the cost/availability of pellets for it and would appreciate your comments.

      I could see the .25 being useful if it had over 850 fps because it would have good energy and the trajectory would still be reasonable over a decent range but would not consider it at 650 fps.

      I am thinking that the Hatsan 85 would be a good contender as a .22 cal platform shooting the lighter weight pellets. Would be a nice squirrel rifle.


      • Hank
        I mentioned the reason I prefer a bigger caliber to Chris USA the other day.

        The bigger diameter caliber pellet allows you to have some added room for shot placement error. Shoot at a 1/8″ dot on a paper with a .25 caliber and say you hit just to the left of the dot but you just touch it. Then shoot a .177 caliber pellet at a 1/8″ dot and it hits just to the left but touches. Look how much more precise your shot has to be with the smaller diameter .177 pellet to hit dead on the 1/8″ dot. It’s just the opposite for the feild target guys shooting at a 1″ kill zone hole. They want the small diameter .177 pellet so they can make it in the hole without touching the sides so they can make a clean hit.

        And the reason I would want a springer in the .25 and up caliber that shot good lets say out to 25 yards. That would be a excellent pesting gun for in barns shooting pest birds and mice. One quick cock and you shoot. Then when I go home no filling back up. Plus no pumping from a multi pump to scare what your shooting at. And as I said with the bigger diameter pellet. It would put the odds more in my favor to hit that mouse. And that is a needed advantage because them mice don’t tend to be sitting in the ideal place waiting for me to take the shot.

        Just my 2 cents.

        • GF1

          Interesting way of thinking about it. Can see why a .177 would be preferred for FT competitions.

          With the .177 I have had issues with “shoot thru” with most of the energy going down-range. I bought the .22 HW100 to address that as all my pellet rifles were .177 cal. The .25 has an even greater frontal area so in an inside-the-barn pest control situation the Hatsan 85 at 650 fps would be a real good solution.

          Springers are real nice – they are quick to load and don’t need any other support equipment.

          If I was going to purchase a rifle for barn/farm pest control I think I would go with a .22 cal FX Royal 300 being a multi-shot, 3 power level PCP. That would cover all the bases nicely in one package.

          As far as the .22 vs .25, considering energy, trajectory and costs, I would prefer the .22 for 99.9% of my applications and would go rimfire for the .9% of the time I really wanted a bit more power.

          Just my nickel ( we no longer have pennies in Canada 🙁 )


          • Hank
            Yep the pass through is another important issue when shooting in biulings. The right pellet with the right velocity for distance is very important. I use mostly the cheapy Daisy wadcutters in my multi pump guns when I pest indoors.

            And than makes me think of something that I would be very interested in. A small light weight multi pump gun in .25 or .30 caliber. That would be the ultimate pesting gun.

            And as far as pesting bigger critters my .25 caliber Marauder will 99% of the time out perform the smaller calibers. Even out at long distances. And it holds a better trajectory than my .22 Talon SS. Go figure.

            You just don’t know until you try. You shoot any .25’s lately?

            • GF1,

              I don’t have access to a .25 as they are not at all common in my neck of the woods.

              As a teenager I did all of my hunting with my Crosman 101 pumper so I have a real good feel for what can be done with a .22 cal. pellet moving 650ish fps. It did real well on squirrels, rabbits and grouse but required very precise shot placement on woodchucks, foxes and racoons at close range.

              The .22 HW100 is doing 850 fps with 18.13s and I figure about an other 100 fps or so with the 15 grain pellets. Haven’t done any pesting with it yet (refinishing the stock at the moment 🙂 ) so I will have to see how it goes.

              If I find to to be too “light” I’ll probably go for a .25 cal Marauder. Until then, cost and availability of .22 pellets are a big factor.


              • Hank
                All I can say is when I get the .25 Marauder out it gets the job done at long distances and in. It is the gun I know will hit at pretty much whatever distance I throw at it.

                Got my Marauder turned up pretty good right now. Around 905 fps with JSB 33.95’s. Let’s see that’s around 62 fpe. Yes it’s pretty flat shooting out to about 75 yards and don’t take much holdover out to a hundred yards and farther actually.

                And remember what I got in my .25 Marauder saves me money for pellet buying compared to other higher priced guns out there. And pretty sure mine is just as accurate if not more so than some of those higher cost guns.

                All I know is I guess I’m lucky because my .25 Marauder is a shooter. Happy for that. That’s for sure.

                • GF1,

                  Some real nice numbers there – impressive performance as well.

                  I haven’t discounted the .25 but I would have to justify changing my line-up to make room for it. The Marauder is high on the interest-list.

                  I have several rifles that need to be put through the ringer to see what is what. Going to be a busy shooting season (finally getting some above freezing temperatures 🙂 ).



                  • Hank,

                    Yup,….those numbers! After quite a bit of looking, the power, proven record, mod. options, etc.,…..made it my choice. Springers are nice, but the power tops out, it would seem, unless your willing to shoot a bee-hive of a cheek slapper. Accuracy?,….well that is up to the gun. And hey,….you can’t argue about the price? eh?

                    At least that is my take on heading to the “dark side”.

          • Vana2
            I don’t think you will be able to buy a 25 springer that shoots at 650 fps with any decent lead pellets. Hatsan advertises 650 and 750 fps for their 25 springer’s with the 135 being the 750 fps gun but what they don’t tell you is just how much of a workout and beating you will take shooting it.

            GF1 had a 200s dominator in 25 that in stock form took two hands to cock it and kicked like a mule, it broke the safety link and it lodged in the spring while he was cocking it and broke the spring so he replaced that spring with a TX spring he had and while it was much easier to cock it had no power to speak of.

            I got it from him shortly after that and as received from him was shooting 25 grain JSBs at 475 fps. I had to order part to fix the safety from Umarex since Hatsan will not sell trigger parts due to liability reasons but its the same trigger as a Walther Talon/Falcon ( made for Walther by Hatsan ) and Umarex was more than willing to sell me the parts I needed knowing they were for a Hatsan.

            I put a RWS 48 stock spring I had in the 200s and repaired the safety link and it then shot at 500 to 510 fps and still was a beast to cock and kicked enough that I sold it as fast as I could and it was not accurate past 20 yards unless you will accept 1 1/2″ groups at 25 yards due to its nasty shot cycle.

            For 25 and up calibers its best to stick to PCPs or pumpers in my opinion.


          • Yes pass through can be an issue with .177, high velocity, close range. Use hollow point pellets.
            If you miss in an enclosed area with a .25 or.30 much bigger hole to patch! Try explaining THAT to the wife.
            In an enclosed area, pistols are a much better alternative. FYI-All the guys that I know that are called into supermarkets, after hours, to dispatch the errand pigeon use R7’s in .177.

            • Yogi
              Try some wadcutter at 30 yards and in on a .177 pcp gun shooting a 8 grain at 950 fps.

              Use to do that with my Discovery. All I can say is a bird will make a heck of a loud pop with a breast shot at 30 yards. Way louder than the gun shooting.

            • Yogi,

              For close range and enclosed areas I use my FWB300 (650fps) and wad-cutter pellets for small pest control. 15 to 20 yards I use domed pellets. Works extremely well.

              Last year I was using a .177 HW100 for longer range pesting and found that I wasn’t getting enough energy on target (due to pass thru) even at 45+ yards. I recently added a .22 HW100 to address that problem.

              I’ve noticed numerous flocks of fat, grain-fed pigeons around the local farms and plan on offering pest-control services. Could turn out great – less pigeons for the farmer, fly tying material and tasty snacks for me. 🙂

              Thanks for the suggestion, never tried the hollow-point pellets. Will see about picking up a can of them for testing.


    • Mike
      Buldawg said it best. They are hard to get to make power in that caliber. And once you do they kick and buck like a mad mule and are hard as heck to cock. You’ll be wore out by the day of shooting is done and feel like you been slapped a hundred times.

      And on the other hand if you tune them down and make them comfortable to shoot and cock then they just lob the pellet out to the target. That is a hard caliber to make work right in a spring gun.

  6. B.B. Unrelated question, but is a air dryer needed if you pump your guns up by hand? I have a bulldog and Kalibrgun Cricket, neither of which is cheap and I’d hate ruining them because I’m doing something I could prevent.

    Thanks, Auro

    • Auronotcs,

      Good question. I guess there are two sides to this question — those who believe that an inline drier is required and me.

      Years ago Dennis Quackenbush and I purposely put water into the reservoir of one of his big bore airguns and then shot it. Next week I will tell you what happened.


    • Auro
      I know the answer already that BB’s going to tell next week. And I know what I have seen inside pcp guns. I’ll leave it at that for now.

      The way I look at it is yes I would put a dryer on for extra precaution. Check out the Hill brand pumps. They come with a dryer.

      • Since I already own a Benjamin pump, it’s probably just going to be easier to retrofit it with a dryer. That and I don’t want to throw $250 at it honestly.

        • Auro
          That’s the way I would do it. The way I see it it’s just one more precaution you can take to help prevent a problem.

          The reason I mentioned the Hill pump is I was using it as a example. The Hill pump is one of the better hand pumps out there. So if they think a dryer is needed then there has to be a reason behind it.

          I’m a tech, maintenance person and machinist at a machine shop for over 30 years now. And let’s just say that I seen my share of problems and failures that could of been prevented if they had the correct things in place to help them last longer. I would add a dryer to your pump. But that’s me. It’s your equipment you know.

          • I operate a CNC router and manage the fabrication department at a sign shop. I understand the concept of do it right and preventative maintenance. I’ve got an automatic drain on the shop compressor and a line dryer trying to keep the water out of the lines, but alas living in AR that only helps so much.

            I just hadn’t thought of the need to dry my gun air. But pneumatic tools hate it, I suppose it’s probably true of airguns as well.

            • Auro
              I have taken numerous pcp guns apart and the best I can say like you. Extra precaution is not a bad thing.

              I use to hand pump with a Hill pump then got a Shoebox compressor. I have a dryer on it that I got out of a Grainger catalog. Well it’s actually a moisture separator. But anyway just keep a eye out for it and see what you come up with. The moisture I’m talking about.

          • Maybe you need a dryer with the Hill pump but not with the 4500 PSI pump I got from mike mileck. I think air venturi is selling the same one now. I have no filter at all so I was worried about my AT 44 that I filled hundreds of times. I got a low powered valve from Canada so I figured a flood of water would come out when I took off the valve but nothing came out. so I put a nice size rag on a shotgun rod patch holder to clean the inside of the tube figuring it would come out orange there was nothing. so I think this moisture thing is way overated at least with the cheaper Chinese pump with no moisture filter at all.

            • Mildot52,

              Well, you have tested it. However,….I think it would become MORE important with a 4,500 auto pump. Filters are another option which I am currently having to consider. To me, more heat = more cooling = more condensation. (got your “ears” on B.B.?)

            • Mildot52
              That Mike Melick flying dragon Chinese pump has glass balls in the base that act as a moisture trap and the accumulated moisture is released thru the bleed valve screw every time you release the pressure after pumping up the gun so it does have a moisture trap just not one that you can see or needs cleaned periodically.


              • moisture does come out when I bleed it but Mike said the air comes thru the handles and the filter should be there but there is nothing in the handles. I think the moisture thing is overblown sorta in the mold of “youre gonna shoot your eye out sonny”. I have big compressors for framing guns and a lot of water comes out when I drain the tank with no filter so I figured the pump did the same

                • Mildot52
                  I did not know there is supposed to be a filter in the handles since it does not state that in the very limited owners manual that came with it. The only reason I know there are glass balls in the base is my o ring that seals the brass threaded base fitting to the black housing started leaking awhile back and had to replace it so with it removed you can see the balls. Oh and by the way that o ring is not included in the kit that comes with the pump but my local ACE hardware had on that works fine.

                  I too have a shop compressor that is drained periodically as well and it all depends on your location and the humidity where you live. Here in the south in the spring and summer its thick enough you can cut it with a knife.


  7. B.B.,

    In basic black I think this air rifle would look just fine, and given how many airgunners are into spraying truck bed liner on their rifles, the camo should be no problem.

    I like that Hatsan publishes velocities measured with lead pellets. I have never shot an alloy pellet in my life and as I value accuracy, I have no idea why I ever would.

    Also, that scope stop looks like a simple but excellent design. If the gun is a real kicker, I would be interested to see how that curved sheet metal holds up, however.


    • Michael,

      THANKS for that idea!

      I just got an old Cooey 12 ga single shot (full choke, 3″ chamber) that shoots a nice even pattern but phyisically is in rough shape. Want to set it up for turkey hunting this spring and was looking for a durable matt finish to use as a base coat – the truck bed liner would be just the ticket!



      • Hank,

        On Turkeys,….. I see 50+ often on the drive home that is besides a State Route in a watershed (flood control) area. Quite the site. Which happens to be about 300 yds. from a Bald Eagle’s nest. Smart bird.

  8. B.B., is the shooting behavior still smooth and quick like you said in Pt. 1? I don’t know why, but I’m pulling for this one. I’m wanting to like Hatsan springers.


    • Doc,

      I shot the rifle a lot more for this test than I did before. It’s difficult to say at this time. I won’t know how it really feels until I’ve had my face against the stock for a lot of shots

      There is definitely movement when the gun fires. But the vibration is very low.


  9. B.B., Run Fun Dawg? All four of you plus the rest of you bloggers! HELP? Every time I want to get hot on a subject or want to purchase an airgun of any kind or brand, pistol,rifle, PCP etc.! I do a lot of research and get ready for the investment and read the replies in some of these reports and start to fall out of wanting to purchase any of these products! I would like to know from all of you with your vast experience! How? You feel about Crosman verses Hatsan in 22 cal and 25 cal and maybe in the near future 30 cal in gas or spring rifle! I had build quite a collection when I got out of the business because of my wife’s profession and now with older age and health problems with her has now put myself back where I want to be in my involvement with airguns and fire burners and CO2 etc.! As for personal purchases for my collection I was purchasing most air guns made before 1991! I still have a couple air rifles and one air pistol that I could not bare to part with!~ Still learning and still purchasing! I give a lot of credit in this blog and to the supporters that comment regularly! I have grown fonder? But! Don’t agree with some of the military rifles and procedures that sometimes turns me a round! Thank you all in advance! Semper fI!

    • J.Lee,

      In all that you asked one question — Benjamin versus Hatsan in a PCP. If you really meant springers and Crosman, the choice is impossible to make. Maybe wait and see how the 85 does.

      Benjamin if you want the best trigger. Hatsan if you want the most power. Probably Hatsan for the best accuracy, although that is more of an individual airgun judgement than a model or brand.

      As for spring guns, only Hatsan makes .30 cals, so there is no choice.


    • J.Lee,

      Hey,….getting yourself talked out of something is not a bad thing! 1) It makes you think 2) It saves you money 3) You learn what you want,…. what you are willing to “settle for”,…. OR,…… what you are willing to “buy up to”. 4) You got some real good honest real world shooters here that have already made those possible “mistake” purchases. All in all,…… not a bad thing.

  10. I would never tell you that your dog is ugly. Instead, I might tell you about the person-box technique. The way to control a dog’s behavior is not by being abusive. Instead, you are supposed to get on all fours on top of them, making yourself into a living doghouse. This is supposed to show them who is dominant without being violent. Heh heh.

    In the description of cocking effort, I didn’t see any reference to how you cock a breakbarrel rifle with a bipod after you find a good natural point of aim. Is that like the slugs in salt motion? Maybe not so bad?


  11. B.B.,Thank you for your reply! And you have an answer for me! I am sometimes a little long on explanations and questions! Better to not comment at times? I think in air rifles it maybe time to go back to the Beeman,Diana, HW or BSA etc! And spend a little more and get a little more? I have now in 4.5mm/5.5mm! I want something bigger in a gas or springer! I really like the nitro power plant and have really good luck with it! I do think in the not so far future that Hatsan will not be the only 30 cal.? I have friends that have never got out and deal regularly in air guns and have heard so much so long about Hatsan? I like the way they test with lead and saying that i’m ready to use non lead projectiles! I have and have no problems with PCP or HCP! Semper fi!

  12. what I find suprising is there is no weaver rail on this rifle where hatsan is the only one besides crosman just recently that makes a lot of their guns with a weaver rail

  13. B.B.
    Please going greater detail about your trigger technique! Do you place your thumb differently? Do you change how much of your index finger in on the trigger? Is it “one more thing to think about” when you have the perfect sight picture?



  14. This should be interesting, I’ve always found Hatsan a frustrating company, all of their brak barrel and PCP rifles can trace their lineage back to the Webley Vulcan and PCP Raider, amusingly the old Vulcan (and I may get thrown in the Tower of London for this) was a lousy, jarring thing to shoot in almost exactly the same way as every Hatsan springer I’ve tried, and the Raider was very sweet, accurate with a strange little “ping” from the action when firing, just like Hatsan’s AT44
    Now their rifles bear little resemblance to their old roots, it’s about time their springers could make out on paper, the AT range show they can make a barrel.
    Here’s a little know fact, the AT-44 stock fits a Weihrauch HW35
    I know this
    I have one 🙂

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