by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Crosman 101 multi-pump pneumatic.
This report covers:
- Baseline test
- Hard to cock!
- RWS Hobbys
- JSB Exact RS
- H&N Baracuda Match — 5.53mm heads
- Trigger pull
- Barrel problems?
Today we look at the power my old Crosman 101 multi-pump produces. I haven’t tested it in years, so this will be as fresh to me as it is to all of you. Let’s get to it.
First I want to establish the velocity with differing numbers of pump strokes. Here goes. I will use the 14.3-grain Crosman Premier pellet for this.
8…………………………….635 no air remaining………….23
9…………………………….667 no air remaining………….32
10…………………………..687 no air remaining…………..20
In this test you see the rapid climb in velocity from the first pump strokes. After stroke 5 the increase becomes smaller.
After shot number 8 I cocked the gun and fired it again to see if there was any air remaining in the reservoir. There was no air remaining through 10 pump strokes.
I didn’t go higher than 10 strokes because after stroke number 5 the effort increased rapidly. This is a vintage airgun, and I did not want to stress it unnecessarily.
Hard to cock!
I had forgotten how hard this rifle is to cock. That’s because of the tuneup it had. The stock rifle cocks much more easily. The grooved cocking knob on this rifle is probably the style that has the least purchase for the fingers, but that doesn’t come into play until the gun becomes difficult to cock.
I also want to point out that what I told you about the velocity in Part 1 is incorrect. I said it gets 71o f.p.s. with Premiers on 8 pumps. That’s obviously not right. Maybe I tested it with a different pellet and just thought it was a Premier? We shall see.
The next test was to see how consistent the rifle is. As difficult as it is to cock, I only shot it 5 times with Premiers on 6 pump strokes. The average was 578 f.p.s. — how about that? Here are all the shots.
Multi-pumps are usually pretty consistent, and this one certainly is! That makes my next set of tests easier, because I don’t have to shoot long strings to get averages. I can just take the number from a single shot through the chronograph.
I decided to test each pellet with 2 pumps, 6 pumps and 10 pumps. That should give us a good picture of the performance. First up were RWS Hobbys.
JSB Exact RS
Next I tried some 13.43-grain JSB Exact RS pellets. They weren’t as fast as the Hobbys, but they were still better than the Premiers. The RS pellet is accurate in a lot of airguns, so I’ll be interested to see how it does in this one.
H&N Baracuda Match — 5.53mm heads
The Baracuda Match with 5.53mm head will be the heaviest pellet I test. I may shoot these for accuracy because the rifle seems powerful enough to shoot them, but I will give you a second good reason for trying them in a moment. First the velocity.
Next I tested the single-stage trigger. I told you in Part 1 that the trigger in a 101 is about as simple as triggers ever get. The trigger blade itself is also the sear that holds the hammer. That usually results in a crude trigger-pull, but not on this rifle. The pull is crisp and the release comes at 1 lb. 14 oz. I imagine a rifle with a stock tune would have an even lighter trigger.
In Part 1 I was going to tell you how many lands the barrel has, but none of the pellets I pushed through the bore showed me a clear impression of the rifling. So, I’m thinking maybe this barrel isn’t rifled very well. That does happen with vintage Crosman barrels from time to time, though this will be the first one I have ever owned. I guess the accuracy test will tell us.
From the standpoint of power, this 70 year-old air rifle is just as powerful as a modern Benjamin 392. It’s even on the high side of where the new ones are. But we still have the accuracy test to get through. That should be telling.
The possibility of very shallow rifling in the barrel is why I think the 5.53mm Baracuda Match pellet might work well. They should fill out the bore more closely. We shall see.
144 thoughts on “Crosman 101 multi-pump pneumatic: Part 2”
Seems like some very good velocities, and seems very consistent also. Certainly as good or better than some modern multi pumpers?
Yes, it is pretty hot. But it was specially tuned for this. A stock rifle would be slower.
A friend of mine bought a Gletcher m 1944 ( after seeing and shooting mine). It is as accurate as the one that I have. That makes 3 ( Including Redrafter) of us that have these BB guns. Has anyone else bought and tested a Gletcher M 1944? If you like replica millitary BB guns that can put 10 shots into 1″ ( or less) groups at 10 Meters, this is the gun to get. I hope that BB will test this gun. Ed
Your statement of some vintage Crosman barrels not having much rifling in some of them makes me think my 68 model 1400 was one of the less than deep rifled barrels as well since when I went thru it two years ago I could not rifling then and have gone back and run a brush thru it since and still see no sign of any rifling left. I was also given another first variant 1400 by a friend that shows no real sign of rifling in its barrel as well. So I am guessing that the rifling back then was not very pronounced as it is in most of today air guns.
I know they were rifled as I still have my owner manual and it clearly states it had a rifled barrel in it as new. I have modified a new steel 2240 breech and 24 inch disco barrel to fit on my original 1400 now so it is a very accurate gun and did so without any change to the original parts of the gun so it can be reversed back to the original barrel and condition with just part changes..
Yes! The 140 and 1400 were two guns that seemed to have this problem more than most.
Well that explains a lot and here I thought I had shot the rifling out from teen years of abusing it with little to no care or cleaning. It still managed to kill more than its share of coons, rabbits and rats thru the 10 plus years it was used almost daily in the brackish waters and islands of Cocoa beach , Florida.
I will say both of my first variant 1400s do shoot very well still to this day and I do like my pumpers.
Then harder pellet may not be the best choice to shoot in that gun then.
Yea my two 1400s don’t get fed any hard pellets anymore just JSB 15.89 but I need to get some 13.43s to shoot in them since the 15s are just a bit heavy to shoot the velocity I would like from them. They shoot in the high 700s but I would prefer to be up in the 800s for a flatter trajectory.
Now my original 1400 that I put the 24 inch disco barrel on is close to the 800s but that’s at 15 plus pumps since I have modded the valve in it. I eventually want to go back to a stock valve since when I modded it I was not as informed as I am now and did not realize it being a blow off type gun or self cocker as I call those style guns. That the more pressure in the valve the heavier the trigger pull is going to be so it does get pretty heavy at 15 to 20 pumps. I could always install a strong spring behind the hammer/ cocking weight but my arthritis is not happy pumping 15 or 20 times per shot either so retuning it to factory condition is the best choice for overall use.
I have all new parts to bring it back to stock as I made sure I had replacement parts before I modded the valve to start with in it. But that all future projects right now.
Maybe not a good idea to shoot harder pellets in the Discovery barrel either.
No plans to shoot hard pellets in either or any of my guns anymore so no worries there.
My tins of CPs are just paperweights anymore as they do not get shot at all. I have not shot them in over a year or more now since we talked about the effects of their use.
Maybe the harder pellets ain’t as bad as we think. But I just don’t want to treat my air gun that way. Want to keep something away from it that might hurt it is how I look at it.
May not be but for what we have invested in our guns why chance damage that can be avoided.
From what BB says the 1400s did not have much if any rifling in the barrel when new so all this time I thought I shot it out of my original one and it turns out it may have not had much to start with anyway.
Don’t know about you but I never thought about hard pellets or if a barrel might not of been rifled good.
Back growing up I never thought about hard or soft pellets either since I shot what I could buy easily and was happy to have ammo.
Never gave any thought to amount rifling either but do know my 1400 did have some as I had looked down the barrel to confirm it was rifled like the box said and it did have some but I cannot say if it was good or bad rifling as I did not know the difference then.
Heck I never even shot groups in my airguns when I first started shooting them as a kid.
If I could hit a soda can at 30 yards with open sights I was happy.
I think nowdays I expect more out of air guns than I did back then. But then mordern air guns do shoot good nowdays. Well maybe they did back then to. But I wasn’t worried about record breaking accuracy back then either.
I don’t know that I even shot at cans as I was just concerned that I could hit the rabbits and coons we hunted everyday on the islands. I know I never shot groups at all since if it did not move on its on it was not considered a target.
We plinked at cans and the vegetables we picked from the garden that the bugs would get.
But yep mostly we shot pest birds and mice with our air guns back on the farm.
Hitting was all we was worried about.
Meant on its own as in live animals.
Exactly hitting what we aimed at was all that mattered back then.
AirArms seem to have a softer skirt than most,may spread out in Barrel better.
Welcome to the blog.
You mention the bigger diameter Barracudas maybe doing better in your particular gun. The Barracudas are usually a little harder pellet. Not as bad as the Premiers. But they are usually harder than JSB’s.
And you also mentioned that the JSB’s that you have tend to work good in most guns.
Maybe the softer lead of the JSB’s forms I guess I’ll call it to the barrel better than a hard pellet. Maybe that’s why they tend to give good results.
So maybe a JSB pellet with a bigger head diameter might be the ticket for your 101.
And since we are talking pellets. I sent a link to Buldawg and Chris USA about results with bent skirt AirArms pellets out of the tin and some surprising results as to how they shot from a pcp gun. I hope you don’t mind me posting the link. But pretty cool article.
Damaged Pellet Skirts – Big Deal – No Big Deal?
Hope this works. If not I’ll do it a different way.
Nope didn’t work. So here is the link.
Oh and farther down the link there is a comparison of the AirArms and JSB 18 grain pellets if your wondering which one might be better. But also that’s just results from this person and his guns. That could change from gun to gun even if it’s the same make and model. You know how air guns behave. Or should I say who knows how a air gun will behave.
So I see that Ken’s Our club members finding on the AA pellets he sorts for his match shooting are inline with what was found by this reports as well in that the AA pellets do seem to be a bit more consistent than JSB even thought they are made by JSB but on AA specific dies.
But your missing something about the article that is farther down. He didn’t shoot any of those pellets yet that he sorted.
And then if you read his article at the beginning of the link he is actually shooting JSB and AirArms pellets with and without bent skirts side by side.
Look at the one picture that has the white paper with red dots on it. He notes that he sees no difference in the way both pellets shot with bent or not bent skirts.
So sorting showed that both brand pellets only had about a .03mm difference on head diameter. That is only a .001 of a inch and they only had about a .3 grain difference in weight. That sounds pretty consistent of brands to me.
The only thing is I seen was in those 2 particular tins of pellets the biggest group of pellets out of the tin was one size difference for the heads of the pellet. And I will mention again those two particular tins of pellets. The real test would be multiple tins from each brand tested to see if consistent between lots.
He never even mentioned in the articles that one was better than the other. But he did mention they shot similar when he did the test on the white paper with the red dots.
So when it came down to actually shooting the pellets on paper one was not better than the other.
He did shoot some damaged and undamaged AA pellets that he sorted out of the one tin he received and yes he noted that there was no noticeable difference between the ones with bent skirts and ones with out.
I was referring to the fact that out of the two tins he sorted in the bottom report that the AAs had more pellets in the same head sizes and were almost an even run for the same weights between the two so I agree its going to come down to what each particular gun likes best for a person to decide which one is best for them.
There was not a big difference between them as you state and yes it was only one tin each of the two brands so a much bigger sampling would need to be sorted to truly see a big difference in overall quality.
For me it comes down to price and as long as AAs are cheaper than JSBs I will shoot them in my guns as I am not a good enough shot to realize any difference from the extra cost of the JSBs over the AAs.
Yep with you on that.
And price is not cheaper with the AirArms 18 grain pellets. They are actually higher than the 18 grain JSB’s.
I can’t find a 500 count tin of the AirArms 18 grain pellets only the 250 count. They are almout $10 for 250 pellets. So that would be around $20. The JSB’s were cheaper in the 18 grain pellets. Look here.
But the 250 count JSB’s are the same price as the AirArms 250 count. Check it out.
I have not even looked at the 22 cals for the prices between the AAs and JSBs so was only talking about the 177s as far as prices.
Yea the 22 cal AAs are more expensive so that’s good to know for the future but I have plenty of 22s to last me a good while as well as 177s and 25s.
The 25s only come in 25 grain for AAs and are the same price as JSBs for 350 counts so it just the 177s that are slightly cheaper.
And haven’t really compared the other weight.177 caliber pellets in JSB or AirArms. So I don’t know if it is all the .177 caliber pellets.
I just know the 10.34 grain AirArms are cheaper than the JSB 10.34’s.
We always talk about the 10.34 pellets and price. So I was surprised when I saw the AirArms were that much in 18 grain pellets.
The 10.34s are 2 bucks cheaper in AAs than JSBs and the 8.44s are also 2 bucks cheaper in AAs unless you get the 4.51mm head size of the AAs and those are the same 12.99 as the JSBs are in 8.44s.
The JSBs are all 4.52mm and the AAs can be bought in 4.52 or 4.51mm sizes.
Should read GF1, its early and little sleep.
I follow his blog also. That was a pretty interesting test.
Yep I mentioned that before that I have shot pellets with bent skirts and still had good results.
That’s why I always say shoot the gun and get the results on paper.
That always tells the true story.
Surprised nobody raised the question about power plants.
A type of air gun could change the results of bent pellets skirts.
Love your informative blog covering pellet head diameters, weight and skirt damage. Your data confirms my Pelletgage findings. Hope manufacturers take notice. Some already have. Any premium pellet labeled as match should have no more than two head diameters in a tin or box. These can then be quickly separated using a Pelletgage.
Very impressive array of goodies you have but I am most impressed with your patient testing and recording. I expect BB would whole heartedly agree.
That wasn’t me doing the test on the link I provided. That’s a blog that I read from time to time.
Did you think that was me that did the actual testing? I use to weigh and sort head diameters and such trying to get the perfect group so I knew that I was going to make a shot count when needed. And I’m talking pest control.
I haven’t for about the last 3 years or so. I did try a bunch of different brand pellets throughout time and found the ones the worked best right out of the tin. And tryed them in multiple guns to verify results. So I use certain brand pellets now that I know work. And no sorting for me anymore.
Off the subject here, but saw Gunfun1 on and wanted to ask him if he got his Brodax and if so does it shoot pellets with the Colt Python metal clip. I just got mine today and learning a few things about it.
Yes I got it and yes it’s doing fine. Matter of fact very happy with it.
I was giving up dates about it over the last weekend’s blog. I’ll see if I can post the link to the comments. You’ll have to read through to get the updates because I pcommented randomly.
I hit the the post comment button to soon.
Wanted to ask what do you think of yours so far? I think it’s a well biult solid gun for 39 bucks.
Hi Gunfun1 and the group. I have not had a chance to really shoot my Brodax much, but will give you my initial impressions. First of all, I hate that darn sealed plastic wrapper. Why cant they make them, so you could pry them apart, and then re-use them if necessary ? As it is , got a heck of a mess of cut up plastic for case if it ever needs to be used again.
Once I got the pistol out of the case, first impressions were quite good. It actually feels heavier then the advertised weight. The build quality seems very good considering the price point. Since I just have the BB magazines , find loading and not losing BBs is quite a chore. I am using Daisy Premium grade BBs. The BB clip for the Crosman Vigilante and the Umarex S&W M&P 45 are much better. The trigger action seems at least as good if not better then the Vigilante . Gunfun1, after reading your remarks , I will order and try the metal clips made for the plastic Colt Python. Thank you for sharing your results.
The metal clips are alot nicer than the plastic clips.
One test that I failed to do though and I want to this weekend. I want to see if the steel bb’s will load and stay in the metal clips. If so then I want to try some shots with the metal clips and steel bb’s.
The plastic clips and steel bb’s produced terrible results. So if the metal clips work with steel bb’s to hat will be a good thing. I will try though for sure.
You probably don’t have any, but the H&N FTT also comes in various head sizes. You might want to think about some of those as they are lighter than the Baracudas.
I remember lusting after one of these multi pump rifles back in the day … but I had to settle for my ancient daisy 25 single pump hand me down 🙂
I have a question though … I keep reading posts claiming that metal rifle cleaning rods will damage the rifling and/or the crown — and to use fishing line instead. The metal rods I’m familiar with (Hoppes kits) are aluminum — isn’t aluminum softer than the steel barrel? (hmm I know that some sandpaper is made with aluminum oxide – so it the problem when the outside surface of the aluminum oxidizes and becomes harder?)
Do you think perhaps 70 years of being cleaned with an aluminum rod could be why some older crosmans have shallow rifling?
Benchrest shooters use polished steel rods. As long as the crown is protected and the rod is guided, steel rods are the safest.
Fishing line is the worst, because it gets grit embedded into it and becomes a saw. Jade carvers use fishing line to cut jade!
But should a air gun barrel really need cleaned? That’s the question.
My steel-barreled 101 has very fine rifling and a JSB 5.52mm pellet can be pushed through with no resistance. 🙁 Thought that the barrel was shot-out but maybe that is the way they were made. I will be trying some larger pellets.
I am surprised that you say the cocking is difficult, even as a youth I never noticed that on my (stock) rifle.
Before doing accuracy tests you might want to check the pump pivot pin and the end of the barrel. On my rifle, things were worn and loose so I re-drilled the pump cylinder, pump handle and the barrel-support casting and used that drill-bit shank for a new pin to tighten everything up. The barrel is also worn from rubbing against the support casting (guess there was sand/dirt caked in there) so I will be building up the barrel with solder and shaping it to a snug fit.
If refurbishing goes well I may consider fitting a new good quality barrel. Need to make a new leather pump seal this weekend. Looking forward to getting the old girl shooting again.
The barrel can be bored oversize so badly that there is no visible rifling . I have been a victim of this .
My rifle was tuned for power and the hammer spring was beefed up. It’s about twice as hard to cock as a stock rifle.
I haven’t had a chance to try my 3D printed seal in my Diana 34 but someone else has had proven success with a printed nylon seal and was kind enough to post a comment on my YouTube video page:
I looked back through part one and read part two again.
You mentioned it was tuned up by someone for you. Did he by chance tell you what was done to the gun to make it shoot faster?
I hear people say they have done different mods to pump guns to make them shoot hotter. Would really be interested in knowing what your gun had done to it. Of course if he told you. And it seems yours is doing well.
I’m sure that there’s a basic series of things that can be done to a pumper that could be done to multiple brand guns. Just wondering if he has some different ideas that he done.
The valve was opened up and the ports were polished, spring inside the valve was changed, hammer spring was changed and the pump piston head was brought to zero clearance.
Well there we go. That pretty well says it all.
Did the weight of the trigger pull increase with the number of pumps?
No. That only happens with blow-off valves that are held shut by the air pressure inside the reservoir. The Crosman 140 and 1400 both have that kind of valve. This rifle has a striker-fired valve that has a constant trigger pull, regardless of the pressure inside.
A funny story, (not so much at the time), to share,…..
I got an .25 cal. M-rod awhile back and besides shooting it, have been doing various things to it. I got it all back together and shouldered the rifle with the scope caps up and looked out the window. I swore I saw “ghost” cross hairs. I headed outside to the shooting bench to have a look. All was fine.
Normally, a shooting session will require 3 trips from the house to the bench, and another to set out a target. The only thing I had was the M-rod,….. an empty M-rod. I had not gone out to shoot, but rather just have a look through the scope at longer ranges.
While sitting there, a big ol’ Ground Hog came out from under a raised shed and proceeded to sit 15′ directly in front of me. He just sat there. I even moved on purpose. He did not even see me. Just my luck. 🙁
To further to add to my “pain”, when I came here about a year and half ago, that is what I was after,… a ground hog gun. I acquired 2 nice .22 springers since then and while they would do the job with a good shot at a closer range, they might be less than ideal. But there I sat,…gun in hand,…. an unaware ground hog 15′ in front of me,… and an empty “hog worthy” air rifle.
In hind sight, I have never practiced my hold (under) at such a ridiculous close range. I might have missed. Still,…. I would have loved to have had the shot.
Oh well,…. live and learn. At least I know that particular ground hog had just used up one of his “nine lives”. 😉
So you got caught flat footed ? Happens to all of us .
I took one out one day about that close by looking along the side of the barrel and pulling the trigger . The scope was useless at that distance . There is a lot to be said for open sights at times .
Thank you for that. I just tried it and yes, that would work. I had never heard of that before, but it does make perfect sense.
I’m tell’n ya them critters are smart.
You asked for “shooting” data. 40 yds. 33.95, 810 or so. 3500 fill. (.25 M-rod)
1~24 / 1 1/4″ / 2300 end.
25~32 / 1 7/16″ / 1850 end.
33 / 1 7/16″ / ?
At 34 and 35 the shots dropped 1″ off the group.
10/10, 5 3/8″
9/10, 3 3/16″
7/10, 2 3/16″
5/10, 1 3/16″
Not getting what you mean at the beginning of your reply.
I get shot 1 through 24. I get the end pressure of 2300 psi.
But what does 1-1/4″ represent? Group size or how much the pellet dropped from original aim point at full fill.
And I’m guessing the 100 yard numbers are group sizes?
Your not being very specific. Just see numbers. Remember you need to tell us what the numbers mean. We are not suppose to guess.
Oooops!,…. see below.
Lesson to be learned here is never, never go outside with an unloaded gun even if its one you don’t plan to shoot at least have a loaded mag in your pocket or one of your springers loaded for just that reason.
Got to be in the Boy Scout mode always ( be prepared ), I can say I have been caught with my pants down as well more than once so now always at least have the pellets outside first before the gun if its one of my single shots. If its a magazine gun then have a loaded mag in my pocket along with the gun and never put up a PCP on the empty end of a fill at least do a partial fill on it so it can be ready with just the insertion of the magazine and ready to go.
Be patient that big ole chuck will show himself again, its just like that coon that became a nuisance at GF1s he was very devious most times to avoid being caught in the act but finally made his last mistake and it was lights out.
Patience is a virtue especially when it comes to pesting and wary critters.
Yup, lesson learned. See below, way down. Some good stuff and maybe some tips when you get your M-rod up and running.
Sorry, yes the #’s are the group size at the end of each string. The 100 was a breakdown of just 10 shots.
Before, I was getting 8 shots, 9-11 were iffy and 12 dropped off. 32 -vs- 8,…. that’s a pretty good improvement.
Overall, I was pleased. Oh yea, love the 8 rounds clips.
Ok cool. Got it.
So the 100 yard shots the groups were tighter at the begining than the end shots. That is typical for a unregulated pcp. The POI will drop rapidly as distance increases.
Search the Pepsi Challenge long distance air gun shooting and see what that’s all about. One thing that is common is they have the pcp guns tethered. You know why? Cause it keeps the guns psi consistent for their sight in and groups. If the pressure changes they will have difficulty adjusting for their shot.
I started a different paragraph here because this is important. They know what the guns air guns psi fill is the most consistent when they shoot. So they tether the extra tank to keep the guns psi at that ideal pressure.
650 yards is what the record is now. But I may be wrong. It’s been awhile since I checked.
The 10 shots at 100 are not in any order, just a break down of the group. Even at 10 mag. I could not see any hits on brown cardboard. I had a nice 3″ sticker with a bull in the middle and was hitting low of that. I walked out at 5 shots to verify. I kept shooting, aiming at the bull, and that is what I got. 1 1/2 dot hold over.
After I got done with the 10, I moved onto 15 oz. tin cans @ 100, with a 2 dot hold over. 9 hits in a row on those.
All in all, not a bad day.
Ok I saw this before when you mentioned hold over and magnification.
Your hold over is minimal for that distance at that magnification.
If I remember right you are shooting up hill and at around 15°. If so that means you need less hold over shooting at that angle.
What I’m saying is you should be very happy with that small of hold over at that distance.
Maybe it’s your sight in distance and scope height.
That sounds about right. I just re-sighted today since I had the scope off and with all the tune stuff I knew that it was doing around 810 fps. I plugged that into Chairgun and 40 yds. was the best sight in as it kept me in the 1″ kill zone the longest with no breaks.
The scope center TO the bore center is 2″. The scope is a 56mm. The front bell with cover only sits 3/16″ off the shroud, so there is not much room to go down anymore.
Yep that’s it.
The up hill shooting at a high degree with a high scope mount.
Well and sight in distance.
And then here is something about in close shooting the with a gun that is sighted for a longer distance.
First is if it is scoped you need one that focus close. But also if you shoot enough you can place a scope on a target even if your not focused. If you can see the reticle that’s good. Just place the reticle center of your ground hogs head.
Why you will hit is what we talked about before. At closer distances the gun will group better. Less chance of shot error. Even if your shot hits high or low because of distance to U will most likely make the kill.
The gun will hurt in a smaller area and tighter.
The gun will (hit) in a smaller area and tighter.
I would amiss if I did not give Dave at R.A.I his due props for a great product.
I now have a slip fit stock kit that can accept AR stocks, bi-pods, front pistol grips, etc.
Fit is half the battle and me being taller and longer armed than most, his product gave me just what I needed to get a custom fitted rifle. I have to give up at least some of the results to R.A.I., and Dave.
Ok cool for Dave’s products.
But what is that got to do with how you see the retical and hit your target?
I mean up close.
I know you had to get the other things right for the magazine.
Sorry, I was just reflecting on how I arrived here. To be truthful, I have never tried to shoot out of focus. I always adjust the AO to get a clear picture.
So you are saying that I can be focused out to 100 yards and then go back to 50 yards, and the picture will be a bit fuzzy, and I will still hit the target with some semblance of accuracy? Or,…. visa-versa?
Not sure I want to take any chances when aiming at a critter. But, you do have my attention.
Talking about at closer distances like you and TT was talking about.
Ok, got it. I could hit the ground hog even at 15′ looking through a scope. That does make sense. The closer the shot, the less the spread. I will have to play with that and see what type of results I get on paper. That sounds like something a “pester” would know,….. Mmmmmm?
Outa’ here for now. Internet is being really slow and stupid. Back in the AM.
As I always say.
The paper tells the truth.
Ok top secret security breach here.
Hear that somebody took some of the baffles out and tried some weights inside the shroud to reduce muzzle lift on their .25 Mrod.
I could only wonder if it helped get better groups.
Not say’n nothing. You say how it went.
You are correct. Early into the initial shooting, I noticed that the muzzle rose and fell, when firing a shot,or at least I thought it was. With the LGU, I weighted the muzzle by adding tubular weights inside the empty muzzle. Like 5 oz., without digging out my notes. It worked and groups improved noticeably.
So,…. I thought why not try it with the M-rod. For anyone that has not had the shroud off an M-rod, you can simply remove the cap OR unscrew it from the breech block. Both easy and both work.
Inside are like 7 plastic baffles that create 7 little inner chambers. Then, a 1″ long spring that sits between the end of the barrel and the back of the first baffle that pushes them all to the front.
I did not have the exact same weights that I had for the LGU, but I did have some other ones, that were thinner walled. 3/4″ od x 1/2″ id x 1 1/4″ long and weighed 1 1/4 oz. each. I left the spring in and 1 baffle next to the spring, then the weights.
YES!!!, it works good and I highly recommend it for anyone with an M-rod.
And while you are spilling all the “top secret security breeches” here,… 1 other thing I did to help the groups. On the bench I sat whatever I needed to prop up the trigger pistol grip. For the 100 yards, it was a 500 tin and a 3/8″ thick piece of that foam that PA packs their pellets in, but you can use whatever, just don’t skip the foam. Bi-pod up front.
Look through the scope. Adjust the grip shimming to whatever brings the cross hairs (below) the target. Shoulder the rifle and when you pull down on the trigger pistol grip, that (foam) will allow you to get on target and actually increases the pressure bond at the grip. Very steady and very solid.
Before you think this is something akin to an artillery hold, it is not. I shoulder the rifle, grab the front pistol grip, pull it back into the shoulder with moderate pressure, keeping down pressure at the trigger grip.
I wanted to remove me from the equation as much as possible, but still shoulder the rifle with normal pressure. Again, very steady and very solid.
So there you have it, 2 very good tips for the day.
Yep it works. Think you forgot to mention I had my Mrods in the past and the one I have done that way already.
Remember I said your is pretty much the way I had mine already. Only difference is the peice of bronze I used for a weight is one solid piece and I have a smaller diameter hole through mine. Of i remember right you said yours was a 1/2″ hole. Mine has a 3/8″ hole through it.
Mine is actually pretty quiet with the smaller hole in it.
On the above “weighting” conversation,….
They are not anything special. They are called bushings, or spacers, or sleeve bearings. All 3 of those are different, but you can go to hardware store, the smaller the better, or a farm supply store and you will likely find something that will work. The gun is louder, by how much I can not say. 2x maybe. The main thing is to get the weight in there. Keep the ID large enough so that the pellet does not clip anything. For a .25, 3/8″ would be fine. Gunfun1 did say that the smaller the ID, the quieter it will be. I may have a piece of 3/4″ round stock cut to length and bored to 3/8″. That would bring the weight up at least double to around 10 oz..
(correction on the above comment,… the weights are 1″ long, not 1 1/4″ as stated.)
If there is any slop or play at all, bring up the outer diameter by using a wrap of masking or electrical tape.
B.B.,….. Any of this got you thing about bringing out your M-rod for a Part 10? If you are thinking my M-rod is anything special, it is not. The only thing that I did was a 12# hammer spring that allowed me to fill to 3500. In fact, the 33.95’s were doing 830 with a totally stock gun. Now they are doing just 810. And while every one has there own preferences, the front pistol grip, that mimics the rear sniper grip is sooo nice. It is much more natural to grip the front end and not have to twist my wrist and forearm. Plus,…. you can not deny the “cool” factor. 😉
You know in a situation where you don’t have your support for under the pistol grip of a pellet tin and packing foam you can use your off hand to make a fist under the very end of the but stock on the bench to rest the bottom corner of the butt pad on and relax or tighten your fist to adjust the guns sight picture to use the same as you do the support under the pistol grip.
You wont be able to hold the front grip but it will work in the times you don’t have your pistol grip rest with you.
Yes, that would work. I do not plan to do the pistol grip support very much in the future. With just getting things figured out, I was just trying to be as steady as possible and see what the rifle is capable of. After that, if things are worse, I will know that it is me, and not the gun.
Yep have read thru all of the post this morning and saw your tweaks for tuning and muzzle rise and that’s a good idea on adding weights in place of baffles. So just one question is how many baffles did you remove and weights installed ( total weight added ) to help achieve the desired result. I don’t want the noise level going up to much in mine so I can still shoot it in my backyard without disturbing the neighbors to much since I am out sometimes at 5:30 am when it nights I cannot sleep and get bored.
I do not want to wake the sleeping neighbors so they complain at all since I live in a grey area as far as shooting is concerned. I am in city limits that has an ordinance against firing anything that shoots a projectile ( a spit wad out of a straw is illegal as well as a sling shot ) yet if I step behind my fence in the backyard its then county property which has no ordinance at all for any type of gun whatsoever so a 20mm mortar is legal if I had one.
I have had no issue with the law as of yet and would like to keep it that way as well as not put the neighbors against me to complain to the law.
I see you are getting it sorted out quite well and are getting some impressive groups at 100 yards. One of the other forums I visit it has a contests of sorts as its informal as all you need to be on the list and a member of the N.U.A.H. club ( nothing under a hundred ” yards” ) is to provide a picture of your target and of the shooting position showing a five shot group inside a 4″ circle. You have exceeded that and then some by over half with sub 2″ groups at 100 yards. They also have list for 150 and 200 yards as well with even bigger group limits. So as far as I am concerned you are a member of the NUAH club right now.
Keep it up and those ground hogs are not going to like you much at all. LOL
6 baffles removed, 5 oz. added. I would do the 3/4″ stock with a 5/16″ or 3/8″ hole. In fact, I will do just that, cut the rear to mimic the baffle, drop the plastic baffle and keep the spring. Max. weight and minimum id. That should be real quite and get you 8-10 oz. or so.
Heading out real soon to do the 25.39’s and the 31.02’s to see what they do at 50 yards. with the current tune. I am not sure if the shot count will go up or down, but the fps will for sure be going up.
So with all but one baffle out its still relatively quiet as compared to all the baffles in it. Just so I am clear you are now using machine bushing or spacers or what ever the store calls them as I do know what you are referring to with all the weights at the front of the inside of the shroud with the one baffle at the rear against the spring.
Its only a bit louder than with all the baffles in it since I would think it would be almost like no baffles at all with only one in the rear. and quite loud indeed. Very interesting and will have to experiment on mine when I get my valve or should say adapters ready as the valve is done and on hold for me so just waiting on the adapter to reduce the valves output port down from .250″ to .1875″ up to the barrel which is the biggest you can go in a 25 cal and not have pellet loading issues. A rule of thumb for PCPs anyway is 75% of bore diameter will give the most power capabilities but will use more air as well so its not required to get decent power with good shot counts. if you want even more gains then you oblong the port in the barrel so its no wider than .1875″ but could be up to .225″ long and still load pellets ok or if you shoot long pellets or actual boat tail bullets it can be even longer to flow max amount of air for all out power.
The 25 and 31 grain pellets should not affect shot count much if at all but if they do it may drop by one or two shots since the lighter pellets offer less resistance to the air charge so it does not slow the release of air as fast as the heavier pellets do so more air is used per shot.
I will be shooting later today as I am working on a old Benjamin model 720 for a customer rebuilding it while its still cool outside. Its a neat BB gun since its a 25 shot repeater pump gun that has a tubular magazine along side the barrel that has a spring loaded plunger that you put 25 BBs in and every time you pull the bolt back to cock it a BB is automatically loaded in the barrel for the bolt to push into the chamber of the barrel and it has a little spring loaded detent that protrudes into the barrel to prevent the BB from rolling out the barrel if pointed down but releases the BB when the blast of air hits it. It is made of all brass. The valve is soldered inside the pump tube so it has to be rebuilt with it inside the tube and I have the special tools to remove and install the valve guts for rebuilding to like new. I just got done building a 1970 model Sheridan blue streak that is basically the same style gun only its was in 20 cal like all Sheridans were until they went out of business. Its was all brass as well.
I will defer to GF1 for recommendations on upping the weight and still keeping the noise down. See reply to GF1 below. The ones in the M-rod now are a silicon bronze sleeve bearing that would be a press fit application in normal use. For me, I will go 1 piece, 5/16 id and spring. Whatever the noise is, I can live with. I will keep you posted as I will have to see a local machine shop and get one made. Pretty simple, so it should not cost that much. Plus, I may need some other work done from the sounds of it.
Man oh man,….. you really know all the tricks that are out there. That is cool that you stay at the fore-front on developments. I can’t wait to see what yours will do.
The pellet weight did not seem to affect the shot count much as the 25.39’s and 31.02’s ended at the same end psi after a 3500 fill.
Yea I have read your posts back and forth below and I do not like the look of moving the shroud forward on the barrel at all so that will not happen on mine to add weight and retain the baffles for noise. if I need additional weight I will look at weight on the outside of the shroud to resemble a muzzle break look.
Most of the tricks so to speak that I have learned are from reading and posting on the GTA and from GF1s text and talks we have had over the past few years. I do like to stay as far ahead of the curve as possible so I have fun toys to play with.
Right now I have lots of projects for customers and myself to get completed but that keeps me busy and out of trouble. LOL just slowly getting back to a routine of structured sleep and wake patterns so its on the up swing at least for now. It can change at any time so got my fingers crossed.
Yea, I would not consider moving the shroud forward either. Now,…. it they made a longer shroud? Mmmmm???? 😉 Keeping my fingers crossed for you as well.
There are vendors that make longer shrouds for the Mrod out there just cannot think of them right now but a search for Mrod shrouds should turn up the info needed.
I just don’t want the gun any longer than it already is either so it will either be weights inside if the noise can be managed or weights on the out side if I find they are indeed required. I am hoping that with the Cothran balanced valve and a light weight hammer and SSG it will be using such small amounts of air it will not have any perceivable barrel rise to need weight added to control.
We will see.
Sorry didn’t read down farther and I commented above about the weight in the shroud.
Again think you failed to mention I said I already had the weight in the shroud of my Mrods I had in the past and the one I have now.
Yes you did do the one in your LGU. But I mentioned for you to try the weight in the shroud in your Mrod and that was the trick to why I do get good groups with mine.
I mentioned above that I was waiting to see what you thought about it if it was worth mentioning.
You response about it sounds like you didn’t have a conversation about with me. And I do know you mentioned that I sent you the 12 pound spring for the hammer/striker. And I did mention you really didn’t have anything but that done to the gun. So I wanted to know what made a difference in POI shot count. Your 12 pound spring and o-ring debounce mod or if indeed the weights allowed you to keep POI tighter and helped with more usable shots. That’s the conversation we had about you trying the weight in the shroud like I had done already for years to my Mrods. Well also my 1720T and Prod I had.
Matter of fact we talked about the weight and shroud when I called and talked to you on the phone that one day fairly recently.
Remember I told you there was two ways I done the weights. The other way was sliding the shroud forward 4-6″ and adding the weight with all the factory baffles and spring in place. place. Matter of fact I mentioned that’s how I had my .25 Mrod done that had Lloyd’s double resivoir he made me as his first prototype for the Mrods. Al’s that’s the gun I didn’t have a stock on. I was using a 1720T pistol grip trigger assembly on it and one of Dave’s adapters and a AR butt stock.
Do you remember the phone conversation now?
Yes I do remember talking to you. Very nice. I am not sure weather it was you or me that (first) mentioned the weights. I think I said that I was thinking about it in a post or email, and then you said that you had already done that when we talked on the phone. However it went down, it works and I thank you for giving me your insight. And yes I remember the bit about moving the shroud forward.
So I ask you this, is your model quieter than stock? If so, I think that is all BD76 will need as he is concerned on keeping the noise down. Mine is as loud as .22 I would say, without the very sharp crack, but there is still a pretty good crack none the less. Wish I had a decibel meter. For me, I will go with 1 piece weight and just the spring and whatever it is, it is. Shroud in the stock position.
Yes the weights helped. Yes the O-rings helped. Yes the 12# spring helped. I did adjust the striker in 2 turns, the port is 4 out from bottom, the hammer is 6 1/2 in from full back. That is how I have it set up now with the 12# spring and the O-rings and was able to get 32 good shots with a 3500 fill. Not bad I think.
Oh yea, I did the up-close test. A measured 20′. AO set for 100 yds. Blurry as all get out. Shot landed 3/4″ low and a little right. A scope will work at a ridiculous close range!!!!!
Chris,USA and Gunfun1
I will have to get my 25 together to see if I even need to add weight in the shroud since mine will be bottled and with the bottle hanging off the front of the short reservoir it may be heavy enough as is so will have to test and see once its up and shooting.
I do want it quiet as possible so may look at another way to add weight for muzzle rise instead of removing baffles since a report similar to a 22 Short is to loud for what I want out of it. The short time I shot it when I first got it the report was just at the verge of being to loud as is with all the baffles in it but then I was dumping gobs of air per shot as well so once its tuned correctly it may be just right.
I will know more once I get my valve and adapter to get it built.
You are right, the bottle may be all you need. That would have to help a lot.
The bottle will help with the guns lifting hopefully but as GF1 says it will not affect barrel rise at all since its not attached to the barrel. hoping with the new valve I am getting and other parts it will not have that issue to deal with anyway.
On todays results,…. The HN 31.02’s were horrid at 50 yds. (2″+). The JSB 25.39’s did well. ( 1 1/16″ and 13/16″ with 5/8 being 5/8″). The JSB 33.95’s did well enough.( 1″ and 1 3/16″)
Next up was the 25.39’s at 100 yards. 10 shots. 10/10 @ 2 3/16″ and 4/10 @ 3/8″. Those are showing better promise than the 33.95’s.
That is about it on shooting. Trying now to plow through a mountain of notes and targets and get them all tidied up a bit and put away.
Yea will see with the bottle and weight balance of the gun since I can move the bipod front to rear about 4 inches on the piccatinny rail mine has on the underside of the AR stock.
Those are some decent groups you were shooting today for just starting out with a new gun and got the tuning thrown in on top of it as well.
I would just shot and enjoy for awhile as you stated till you get more used to it as a total package.
We shall see. The 100 yds. was dramatic on the 25.39’s vs the 33.95’s. As you know, at that range, odd things can happen.
I will just chalk it up to “luck” for the time being. I am a firm believer that further testing is required to validate anything. I will do both again and see what happens, at least 5 more times. If I can get anything close to those results, I will have more confidence in me, the gun and the pellets at that range.
(And yes, time to kick back and enjoy). It was a long and rough ride getting to the “Darkside”. A bit “trail weary” if you will. But, I am here and things have turned out well. I am happy right where I am at,… for now… maybe…..?
Ok,…being honest,…. I give myself a week and I will be “full tilt” on some modification “tangent”,… and the ol’ noggin wheels will be spinning a 100 miles per hour. 😉
You will still need the muzzle weight in the shroud. The whole gun does lift when it shoots. But the barrel does too. I could watch my barrel raise on my gen1 .25 Mrod I had and hit the top of the barrel band when I shot. That’s why I put a weight in it.
Plus something else that helps the one I have now is how my bi-pod is mounted in front of the the front scope ring. The majority of the guns weight is forward. So that helps hold the gun down. But tour barrel will still try to flex up. So the muzzle weight is needed.
And as far as loudness is concerned mine is still fairly quiet. You know them CCI low velocity .22 long rifle bullets you got when we was trying to compare are chronys. The 710 fps with the 40 grn bullet. It’s still quieter than those. No crack what so ever. Kind of like a loud finger snap really.
Mine right now with the factory spring next to the barrel then I have one baffle and the closed end is setting up against the spring. The open end has the weight resting up against it then the end muzzle cap of the shroud where the pellet exits the gun to hold the weight in the shroud.
I have not shot the 25 enough to realize the barrel rises in the band so much that it will contact the o ring there so that could be an issue I will have to check for once I get it shooting.
My piccatinny rail on the AR stock on mine has about 4 inches of length to mount the bipod on so I should be able to balance the gun good and keep it front heavy to some extent if it needs it.
I will just have to see on the removing the baffles to add weight inside the shroud as I really don’t even want it as loud as just below the 22 quiet rounds as far as noise go’s. I want it as close to mouse fart quiet as possible so it may get weight on the outside of the shroud or an extension off the end of the shroud. I will just try it with like you have your and see if its quiet enough or not and adjust from there to hold the barrel down.
It would be easy to make a weight out of brass that could slip over the outside of the shroud and then you could leave all the factory baffles in to keep it quiet.
I did mine the way it is now to keep the gun factory looking. That’s why it still has the ugly wood stock on it. You know how we use to biuld our bikes and cars. Keep them stock looking sleepers. Well that’s my Mrod.
Yea brass or even bronze since its heavier than brass but will not corrode like steel or iron if left unpainted or coated in some way if kept well oiled.
I have also thought about making baffles out of brass or bronze to replace the plastic ones if needed to keep the stock look or sleeper look as we like to refer to it.
Have you weighed the sleeve you put in yours to know how much you added in the front or was it just find what fit and install it as I would like to have an idea of just how much is needed if I have to add weight.
I am also hoping maybe with the Cothran balanced valve, lightweight hammer and SSG it may not need any weight since it will hopefully only be sipping air not gulping it. Or should I say only using the least amount air needed to get the job done and therefore not be that loud or create any significant barrel rise .
No don’t know how much it weighs.
And it still takes a given amount of pressure to move the pellet. Your debounce mod makes it not use additional air.
And the barrel and gun will rise even if you have the debounce mod done.
This is true but I was thinking it may not use enough to cause the barrel to rise as much but likely it still will so just wishful thinking on my part right now. one can always hope even if its without merit. LOL
The sleeve you installed, what is it made of ( steel, brass, bronze ) and its what about 4 inches long with a 3/8″ center hole and 3/4″ OD. So probably 8 to 10 ounces in weight.
You say its not near as loud as say the XS60C are or a disco Hipac gun is as a comparison. or give me an example of guns we both know the noise level that they make so I have a better idea of what you call a finger snap really is .
Take your baffles out and measure how long they all at minus. And use whatever heavy metal you want.
Way quieter than the c60. A little lower der than a hi-pac gun.
Ok that’s what I wanted to know as the 60c is very loud when it on the peak of the fill and the hipac is still louder than I would like it to be so may look at making metal baffles to add weight but still keep it quiet and I could use the Gen 1 design so it would only be 4 instead of 7 needing made.
I will decide when I get it shooting and tuned for my desired level.
Check out today’s 100 results when you get a chance,….. below. Chris
Yep that’s why I say take it out of your gun and measure.
No need to take them out as I have a few extra from when I was first building the 25 and removed the shrouds end cap and forgot to remove the baffles before I shot it without a pellet in it to see just how loud it was without baffles and it blew all of them out into the ceiling and broke two or three of them.
I ordered 7 new ones just so I would know none of the ones I put in would not have any cracks in them that I could not see so I can just measure one and multiply by 7 to get the length needed.
I do remember when you shot your baffles out of your Mrod.
Maybe you invented the first home defense (air) shotgun.
Yea if the baffles shattered hitting a person like they did on the ceiling it could be an effective home defense gun. if I remember there were only 2 or 3 baffles that were still intact and would have to look in the bag they are in to be sure.
But I bet they would have hurt like dickens non the less even if they did not shatter, Like a solid bean bag shotgun. LOL
I wouldn’t want to be the guinea pig standing in front of the barrel to see what happens.
Me neither since they would hurt and I have played paintball games at the Harley summer picnics and those leave welts even with protective vest on.
My brother had a paint ball gun and froze the paint balls over night.
I saw him hit a black bird in the head at 25 yards and it flattened it’s head like a pancake.
Yea a coworker at Harley had p[paintball guns and he talked about freezing them and the damage they would do to cinder blocks and milk jug full of water but not sure he ever shot an animal with them frozen but it would be like a shotgun slug at close range.
Getting ready for bed so talk tomorrow ok.
Sounds like that 2 turns in on the striker was enough to get the o-ring hammer to valve stem distance right. And at 4-1/2 turns out on the transfer port screw did you have room to put the jam setscrew on top of the adjusting screw. My adjusting set screw is out flush to the valve body outer diameter. I have blue Loctite securing it.
It sounds like your tune is set up close to how mine is. Obviously mine is making higher velocity’s cause I have other stuff done. But sounds like it’s giving good shot count in relation to POI. Sounds like it’s right to me now for what you have done.
And yep the out of focus scope shooting always surprises people when I mention it. As long as you can see the reticle and some type of shape and hold on and shoot you should hit.
And since we are talking scope picture. Did you ever try resting your gun on the bench and placing your head at the back of the butt of the gun and move your head around while still holding the reticle on target and shoot at your target. I had my head so far to left or right or up or down that I could verily see the reticle. But held the reticle on the target and shot. Hit everytime. So cheek weld is overrated too. Try that experment and tell me how it does.
Oh and no 2×4 penatration test yet at 50 and 100 yards yet?
No on the 2×4’s. Sorry. I do remember that bit on the head way back and still hitting. It might have been you that mentioned it, and no, I have not tried it.
The settings I have now seem to work well. I think I will just leave it alone and enjoy it for awhile until I learn more and get some parts to mod.. 😉
See just above your post on (today’s) results that I posted to Buldawg. QUITE interesting.
Yes it was me that mentioned it about shooting to see results without a exact cheek weld.
Now I see why you got to take notes all the time.
What ya’ tryin’ to say there???? 😉
In my defense, I have learned a lot in pretty short order on (everything) shooting. Throw in modifications,.. and that is something that average air gunner does not have to think about.
So you will have to excuse me if I have to “jot” down a note now and again. I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I for sure ain’t the dullest. 🙂
What about today’s results? No comment? Maybe you are getting scared that I am catching up with you? 😉
No worries yet grasshopper.
Thanks to all veterans.
Fido3030 army 65,66,67
Thank you,…. to you.
Not up on my military history, but that was not a good time to be in if I recall. Sorry, I was around 5 at the time.
I will chalk it up to luck for now. If I can repeat anything close to that, at least 5 times, with either pellet, I will have something to “toot my horn” about. Luck of the draw perhaps? Or should I say,… luck of the pellet “fall”?
“Grass Hopper” ehh? Forgot about that. You know me,… had consult my “notes”,.. so as’in I could remember. 😉
Chris (aka: da’ grazz hoppa”)
Interested in knowing why you don’t like the idea about sliding the shroud forward on the barrel.
My gen1 Mrod that had Lloyd’s dual resivoir mod had the shroud moved forward. Also Dave has one of my 1720T’s that I had that mod done to. Both guns were very accurate and had no problems with them at all.
Matter of fact if you check out some feild target shooters guns you will see that trick has caught on by moving the shroud forward.
But like I asked. Interested in your thoughts of why you don’t like that mod.
Oh and forgot to say something on your 100 yard shooting results.
What I have to ask is. Does trees help to block the wind in your 100 yard shooting lane you cleared?
Wind becomes a issue the farther out you shoot. Your shooting area sounds pretty much like how mine was at my other house. The wind was blocked pretty much all the time when I shot there. Now this house I only have one direction the wind is blocked. That’s from directly behind me. All the rest of my shooting area is open and exsposed to wind.
So if you got a wind free area count yourself lucky.
And one more thing. Did you remember to try about 3-4 drops of silicone oil in the barrel of your Mrod.
I think that will help your gun. And I bet the harder Barracudas will do better after you do the oil drops.
You emailed me earlier that you were out shooting so by time you see this you will be done and to late to try today. Anyway wondering if you tryed that also.
On the above, no oil yet. The port screw still has the jammer in. Yard is surrounded by woods to 30 and the woods is the other 70. Shroud, don’t care what it would do to the looks.
Today, 100 yards,….
25.39, 2 3/4″, no real sub-groups
33.95, 2 5/16″, with 7 of those at 1 5/16
Ya’ see those #’s????? Da’ Grazz Hoppa’ is coming for ya!!! 😉
I hope BB sees this and gives his M-rod another look. I know for sure he can shoot better than me.
So Da’ Grazz Hoppa’ did take good notes. 😉
And yes with BB. I’m glad I aint the only one that gets good groups and shot counts out of the.25 Mrod.
And don’t know exactly you mean about the shroudd mod where it gets moved out. The looks is what your talking about? I’m tall nging about the function still works perfectly fine.
Yea on the looks. I am stuck on looks a bit. I would lean towards adding something at the end and leave all the guts in. Do they make anything that replaces the end cap? Do you know what thread?
And in case anyone is wondering on if I an doing a “real” 100 yards/300 feet,……. I just re-measured it last night with a 100 foot steel tape. From bench to the 50 and the 50 to the 100. Dead on. In fact, I got it marked every 10 yards from 40-100 now.
Oh yea,…. the woods is getting darker and darker. Took a 30 LED work stick light out and put it on the target at 100. 🙂 is all I shall say.
Sounds your shooting lane is shielded from the wind pretty good the way it sounds.
You should take your .25 Mrod to a shooting range and see how it does if you have one in your area. I think you will be surprised as to how your hold overs will Chang from at your up hill range at your house.
People tend to not realize how things are different from shooting straight and level targets to ones at up hill and down hill angles.
It is. If it’s 20 up top, I might see 5 at the ground. That can vary of course on a number of factors, but it’s 1/4-1/2 of actual.
Yes on the elevation. The most holdover has been 2 1/2 dot at 100 at 10 mag. The 10 is what I did today and will be sticking to it for long range. At 16 the eye relief and picture became much more critical, but I will be playing with that too,… on a sunny day.
I have not even touched the trigger yet. It broke at 2# 1.3oz. with the Lyman the 1 time I checked. It is good now, but I think I would do better with at 1 1/2# or so.
Heck Dude,… I am afraid to breath on the thing. I threw away all my tune notes and hid all the Allen wrenches from myself. 😉 I ain’t believing it myself. Repeat test will tell,… but looking good so far.
Those were 10 shot groups, not 8.
Those are nothing to be ashamed of as far as group sizes at 100 yards and like I said on your first post of groups that you and GF1 both qualify to be members of the NUAH club on the GTA since the only requirement is 5 shots inside of 4″ at 100 yards verified by a picture posted on the forum to be considered a member.
Here is a link to a longer shroud for the Mrods and its 28 inches compared to the 23.5 inches of a stock shroud.
That is cool, a bit pricey though. It is going 46″ now to fit me. I guess if I went more up front I would make it shown. A little “bling-bling” if you will.
By the way, got done at the GTA site. Different. Still need to figure out what does what. This is still “home”, no matter what.
I agree this is home but I like the variety at the GTA and its not that hard to navigate once you play there awhile. I like it because after you join and make 20 posts you can sell your items there for free and buy as well without any posts. Check out the members classifieds about halfway down for some good deals on toys.
You may be able to just buy the shroud without the baffles and other parts you don’t really need as that is everything needed to install a shroud on a unshroud gun. Just check out the vendors site itself. I wont post that here since its not appropriate to do so.
Just wanted you to know there are all kinds of parts out there for Mrods as they are the small block chevy of the air gun world. You can even get a front shroud cap to replace the factory one that is threaded to accept a LDC of 1/2-20 threads so you could put all weight inside the shroud and still be quiet as a mouse by installing an external LDC.
That’s what is on my Hatsan and its as quiet as a mouse.
Oh and forgot to post.
Steel bb’s don’t work in the metal clips that I tryed in the Brodax. They fall out. Very easy at that.