by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Millita air rifle.
This report covers:
- Another find from Findlay
- It’s a rifle
- Description
- Trigger
- Sights
- It’s been lubricated
- What we have
Another find from Findlay
Today we start looking at an air rifle that I know very little about. I bought it from someone who walked into the Findlay airgun show, earlier this year. In the Blue Book of Airguns on page 593 it is called a Millita-style air rifle. While there are many different air riflesmade in that style, I think the one I have is the real thing!
The seller didn’t know very much about the rifle and the buyer knew even less. But the rifle seemed to be complete and sound and the price was fair, so I took the plunge. I knew I would be testing it here and probably one of you readers could tell me all about it. I will tell you what I have been able to find and you can fill in the blanks.
According to the book, “Air Rifles,
by Dennis Hiller, the Original V rifle I have was made in the 1930s. The patina of the gun certainly agrees with that.
“Original V” is engraved on the top barrel flat.
Also found on my rifle and in Hiller’s description is the circular trademark FLZ. I was familiar with that mark from articles written by Larry Hannusch years ago, so when I saw it on the rifle I felt this might be the real deal.
The FLZ trademark is on the breech.
It’s a rifle
Many long guns of this era are smoothbores, but this one is definitely rifled. It was made by Fritz Langenhan in Zella Mehlis, Germany. These were very popular throughout Europe and the United Kingdom before the war.
The rifle’s serial number is repeated in part on the breech. European guns commonly put portions of the serial number on many of the major parts of the gun, just to keep things together where they belong.
The serial number.
Last part of the serial is on the breech.
Description
This rifle is a .177-caliber breakbarrel that has just a walnut buttstock and no forearm. That was a look common to the early era of spring guns. The thing that sets this one apart from all the rest is the toggle lever that allows the shooter to push the spring-loaded barrel detent back out of the way. It sticks down through the long steel cocking link that has a slot to allow movement of the lever. The profile of the Millita is unmistakeable because of this lever.
The lever sticks through the long cocking link. Push it back and the barrel opens.
What isn’t obvious in the pictures is this lever is actually a barrel lock. The breech cannot be opened unless it is pushed back. It’s a clever design that serves both as the lock and the detent. The HW35 has something similar, but other than that is has been lost with the ages.
Looking up in the spring tube we see the coiled spring that powers the detent lever. The detent is actually the end of the lever!
The rifle weighs 6 lbs. 4oz. and is 43-inches long. The barrel, which is octagonal at the breech and transforms abruptly to round in a few inches forward, is just over 19.125-inches long. The butt is walnut and both the buttplate and grip cap are steel plate. The butt is held to the action by a long through bolt.
The butt drops sharply down, bringing the comb up to the cheek when the rifle is shouldered. The pistol grip is checkered on both sides, and on my rifle the checkering is well worn to flat diamonds. The wood has been sanded in the past and now stands proud of the metal parts in several places.
Trigger
The trigger is adjustable. A long screw passes through the front of the triggerguard to bear on the sear. Screw it in and there is less sear contact with the trigger — a so-called direct sear. At present there is no adjustment on it and the rifle has a stout single-stage pull. It’s safe, and I will leave it where it is for now.
The trigger is adjustable by controlling the amount of sear engagement.
Sights
The front sight is a post with a bead on top. The rear sight adjusts for elevation. If you need adjustment to either side, both sights are in transverse dovetails and can be moved.
When you move the disk that adjusts the rear sight notch, it gets very loose and there is no good way to tighten it. I think this is the rifler’s weakest area.
The rear sight adjusts for elevation. But when that round disk moves, the sight blade gets very loose.
It’s been lubricated
A rifle of this vintage has a leather piston and breech seal. I oiled both with Crosman Pellgunoil when I started this report. After a day of soaking-in, the rifle was shooting smartly which is not an exact velocity but I will guess it’s somewhere in the 500s.
I can see part of the mainspring through the cocking slot and there is a small amount of grease on the coils. It looks like someone has done a recent lubrication, so I assume the rifle has been apart recently, and the grease is probably something modern.
What we have
What we have is a vintage breakbarrel spring-piston air rifle. It may have been made in the ‘30s, but it resembles every spring rifle made from 1905 until the start of WW II. The technology was being invented during this time — it didn’t start to evolve until later.
This will be an interesting test, because this is an interesting air rifle. Not since I owned a 1914 BSA Standard have I had such a vintage spring rifle to test!
B.B.,
Very, very nice rifle! I have seen these for sale every now and then online, but unlike yours, they were not Original Vs. I have also found pictures of early Diana’s that were forearm-less.
I have a Fritz Langenham pistol, a break barrel with a long barrel and a flintlock-era shaped grip. It has the same trademark as your rifle. It’s probably about fourteen or fifteen inches long overall.
Michael
Michael,
You must have what I think is called a “push-lever lock.” The barrel breaks down and pushes a long straight cocking link backwayds to cock the gun?
B.B.
B.B.,
I’m not sure. I found some pics that are of pistols that look absolutely identical to mine:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/elcaro/media/cGF0aDovdmFyOV8wMDEuanBn/?ref=
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u70/Garvin1/Airgun%20gallery%20Mick/FLZgalleryairpistol4_zpsccc8a10d.jpg
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/Garvin1/media/cGF0aDpBaXJndW4gZ2FsbGVyeSBNaWNrL0ZMWmdhbGxlcnlhaXJwaXN0b2w0X3pwc2NjYzhhMTBkLmpwZw==/?ref=
Here is a page with many excellent photos of the FLZ Original V and other FLZ models:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/681456/thread/1362404992/5/F
Michael
Michael,
Your pistol is later than I imagined. Same maker though.
B.B.
B.B.,
Yes, I’m guessing just barely prewar (II), because if it were later than that, the steel would have gone to the war effort in Germany, and if it were post-war, well, then it would have been made by Milbro!
And the woodwork on my pistol has no fanciness at all, unlike your riofle with its hand-carved countours and checkering.
Michael
Michael
B.B.,
Also, I believe the Blue Book and others have misspelled “m-i-l-l-t-a” in a subconscious attempt to make it more like the English word “Militia.” I have seen it much more often with the “t-a” ending rather than the “t-i-a” ending.
Michael
B.B.,
I also believe, although you know 100 times more than do I about Germany, that Langenham worked out of Zella-Mehlis, not Zella-Mellis.
Michael
Michael,
Good catch.
B.B.
B.B.,
Just discovered your excellent 3 part article on the “Millita breakdown rifle” from June 2017. Yours is indeed a very, very nice rifle. My Dad brought this model Langenham Original V back as a souvenir after WW2. It has been stored since 1946. I recently acquired and it needs quite a bit of cleanup, but appears to be fully intact with serial number 121852. It does not have the adjustable rear sight (just a non-adjustable v).
Currently, it is unable to store the intake air after pumping. In part 1 of your article you mentioned using pellgunoil to lubricate the leather piston and breech seal. I am a complete novice and would appreciate if you could provide some detail on this process (i.e. did you break open and soak both areas submerged in this oil or apply to both with a brush or another method). Sorry if this is a dumb question, but as mentioned I am a complete novice. Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
Jim
Jim,
Welcopme to the blog.
At the rear of the barrel, when it breaks open to cock the gun, there is a hole called the air transfer port. That hole comes from the compression chamber.
Drop yourt oil thropugh that hole.
The easiest way to drop it in is the close the barrel, stand the rifle on its butt and drop 10-20 drops of household oil (3-in-One) down the muzzle. Leave the gun standing like that for a day and the oil will run down through the transfer o=port and into the piston, where the leather seal will absorb it.
Read these three reports:
/blog/2008/11/what-to-oil-part-3-finishing-the-spring-guns/
B.B.
B.B.
The 3-in-one drops down the barrel did the trick on the leather seals. I have an additional issue I would like your recommendation on. When I cock the barrel, I can hear the click at the fully open point, but it does not lock the air supply in. If I keep forward pressure on the trigger (opposite direction of firing) during the process, the rifle does lock in the air supply and function normally.
I thought you might have discussed this issue in a previous post or article. Thanks again for your expert advice and please excuse my novice use of terminology.
Jim
Jim,
I understood you.
The trigger is not catching the sear, so the piston isn’t being held back.
You need a stronger trigger return spring, or maybe there isn’t one and you need it.
B.B.
B.B.
Thanks. I can see there is a spring, but it appears worn. To my untrained eye, it appears that the only way to get to this spring is by removing the 3 exterior screws holding the trigger (2 on either side front of trigger and one rear which screws in stock). Is this correct and if so is there anything I need to be careful of? Also, do you have any idea where is could get a new spring?
Jim
Jim,
You
‘re on your own here. I have zero experience with a Millita.
Start with ballpoint pen springs and would your way up.
B.B.
B.B.
Sorry about the question on how to access the trigger return spring. Based on your article, I thought you might have restored the Millitia breakbarrel pictured. I will try and find someone on another vintage site who has performed this task. Thanks again, for the advise on oil down the barrel. I seals are fine now and the rifle seems to have plenty of power when I override the spring.
Jim
Jim,
Welcome to the blog. Allow me to clarify something you said,….
…. “but it does not lock the air supply in. If I keep forward pressure on the trigger (opposite direction of firing) during the process, the rifle does lock in the air supply” ……….
When you cock the gun,.. no air pressure is made yet and it is not storing any air. You are moving a piston backwards, that is under spring pressure and is held back by the trigger sear that is giving you issues.
So,… you load a pellet and cock the gun. Upon pulling the trigger,… that sear releases the piston and the piston moves rapidly forwards. A pellet is in the way and the air can not get out,.. so pressure is created. Soon, the pressure will increase enough to start moving the pellet down the barrel.
That is the basic way a springer works.
Chris
Chris,
Thanks for the greeting and informative explanation of the springer theory. This really helped clear up my confusion. Now if I can rectify the trigger sear spring issue, I think the mechanical status will be good.
Jim
Jim,
No problem. Not that you are interested in going further with airguns,… but if you are,… here is a pretty good link that explains a lot of stuff with illustrations and interactive things. It will explain a lot, real quick.
http://www.arld1.com/
I must warn you though,…. it can be very addictive. There is so much to choose from. Much to learn too. If you do delve deeper,… this is the spot you want to be. I was new myself not so long ago and received much help from those that reside here.
Best wishes on getting your beauty up and running smoothly. Would love to see a pic if you can manage. Many others would too, I am sure.
Good Day,……….. Chris
Chris,
Thanks for the website info and I will check it out. Haven’t gotten any feedback on how to access the trigger return spring yet. This is the only issue with having it fully functional.
It is exactly like the one pictured in the article here, except for the rear sight and not having the metal or stock refinished. I will try and take a pic and post so you can see it.
Best Regards,
Jim
Jim,
Very good. As BB can attest to,… some guns come apart easy and others,.. not so much. The internet is pretty amazing. What can’t you find? It may take a hit to a specialty site for you to get specifics. I think yours may be an easy fix. Very happy for you that all else is working well! 🙂
Explore this site some:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php
They may have an antique site/blog where people specialize in the oldies.
Have a good evening,……. Chris
Jim,
Being a bit of an internet dummy myself,…. You Tube has anything you could ever want,… for the most part. People tear anything and everything apart and feel it is their soul purpose in life to share it with the world. Not bad actually.
A common word search should turn up YouTube sites (as well as) readable article/sites though. Videos are nice in that you can watch something actually being done. The host’s video “talents” can vary very widely though. 😉
Chris
BB,
OK. That’s it. I gotta have it. This is exactly what I have been looking for. I have been wanting a break barrel to go with my 1906 BSA.
BB,
Apparently the rear sight is missing the small spring that provides tension for the adjustment wheel. The earlier styles such as my 1906 BSA had a small leaf spring and the later style such as this had a small coil spring that fit around the threads of the adjustment wheel. If you screw it all of the way out you will likely see a “well” for the spring to fit into.
RR,
I will look into that.
B.B.
BB,
You would be wise not to adjust that trigger further unless there is considerable creep in the pull as it is indeed a direct sear. Many of the BSA air rifles made just before WWI and on came with a two stage trigger. So many of the early Twentieth Century air rifles were copies of Lincoln Jefferies designs.
B.B.,
Searching the archives of the blog but doesn’t show a post regarding your 1914 BSA Standard. Probably you did that review before this blog existed. Maybe an article you can recycle one of these days for the historical series.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
I doubt I ever wrote about that rifle. I had it only a short time.
B.B.
B.B.,
Simply fascinating. The picture you mention seems to be on pg. 645 in the 11th. edition of the Blue Book in the T section under Tell and is called the Militia Model. (for anyone that does not have the current 12th edition.)
Looking forward to more on this one. I had not expected anything this old, that you own, to be featured in the historical/vintage articles.
(For everyone else,.. get The Blue Book. You will never, ever regret it and it will fascinate and entertain you for hours on end. “Mind Blowing” in fact.)
Good Day to you and to all,…. Chris
Chris,
Yes, apparently the Blue Book misspelled the name. I have seen German ads for it and it is Millitia.
Like I said in the report — I bought this =at the Findlay show this year. I have other oldies I bought there, as well.
B.B.
B.B.,
There was no attempt to correct any spelling. Rather just an FYI for anyone with an 11th. edition. Plus,… I am always happy to heap on the praises with regards to the Blue Book. 🙂
Findlay huh? Maybe a 2 hr. a drive, or less, for me. You may get me there yet. Me, knowing me,… I have to be very careful putting myself in such a target rich environment. Plus, over the years I have “collected” things for collection sake. Now, a “tad” bit older, I find myself adhering more to a minimalist philosophy.
I am sure I will purchase something else at some time in the future,.. just no idea what direction that may take. The Daisy Spittin’ Image lever action with brass colored receiver and octagon barrel would be my one down fall, for sure. That was my first air gun,.. I “might” have mentioned that before. 😉
Chris
Chris USA
How does one “find” this minimalist philosophy of which you speak and upon finding, how does one acquire the strength to “adhere”? The answers to these questions may save my marriage at a not too distant date. 🙂
Halfstep,
Very good question. First,.. go high upon a mountain and meditate for 24 hrs. No food, no water. It is best to choose a mountain on which there are no meat/people eating carnivores, lest you fall asleep. If there are no mountains in your nearby vicinity, a small hill in your backyard will work in pinch. ( Just be ready to have a good explanation ready to pull out for when the neighbors ask, “What the heck were you thinking?” ) If you survive the night, you will pretty quickly realize that all of that minimalist stuff, is a pure load of crap,… or,…you will like it. 😉
The 2nd explanation is to not have much as a kid. Then,.. as an adult,.. and if all goes well,.. you find yourself with more income coming in, than going out. There should big stop signs in a persons life when they arrive at that point. At least big caution signs. This is a fork in the road and one should pause and consider their options carefully. Continue with one’s frugal ways that got them to that point?,… or,.. Dump the brakes and go whole hog on getting everything you never had? 😉
Of course, most of us have experienced something in between. For me, moving a time or two will make you think real hard on what is important to keep/collect. Plus, that is money that you will likely never get back. And, you might realize that the money could have been spent better elsewhere. (like on a bigger toy) Each to their own and live and learn. Be happy though.
It does not hurt to seek the advice of an “Ol’ Timer” now and again as well. For whatever reason, I always did that,.. and while I could have turned out better,.. I did not turn out half bad.
As for how to keep the wife happy? Maybe consider a “She gets that, and I get this” type of scenario? Sure,.. it cost more, but it may keep the peace at the same time. Not keeping the peace can cost a whole lot more.
That is all the advice I got for ya’ Bud. Chris 🙂 and a big 😉
Chris USA,
Right on brother, very similar to my philosophy.
It works for me.
Randy
Chris,
Should it be “Millitia” or “Millita”? “Tah,” as in Eric Cartman’s, “Respect my authoritah!” ;^)
Michael
Michael,
I do not know. Depending on what part of the country you may be from,… it could be “Maw-leesh-a”.
😉 Just funnin’,….. Really,… history and verbiage are not my strongest forte’s.
Michael,
A small correction to my comment,…..
I decided to look up the word “verbiage”. ( Verbiage : an excess of words, wordiness. )
As it turns out, I can excel at that quite well. That being said,.. I am not so sure that is necessarily a good thing. Short, sweet and on point might be a more desirable trait to shoot for.
Let’s just leave it at that I am no author or literary ar-teest! 😉
Chris,
Never put a patrolman in a vehicle when you can put a cop in a car. That was one of Edith’s favorite sayings.
B.B.
B.B.,
Wise. Very wise. At least I make an attempt and am not afraid to put it “out there”. Maybe if I stick around here a few more years,… I may make an attempt at a “guest blog”. ( with the Editor’s corrections,… of course ). 😉
I do wish that more people would “jump in” on the comments. With as many readers that you have stated, that we have,… that would really fill things up. Not to mention, there is no shortage of people willing to assist a new Airgunner.
Chris
A colleague of mine telss his students that if they can’t remember how to spell “kitten,” write “young cats.”
By the way, there os worse than “verbiage.” Consider “circumlocution.” ;^)
Michael
Michael,
I am going to make a “stab” at “circumlocution”,…..
Let’s see now,…. ; being electrocuted in some sort of circular manner? Ok,…. maybe I better go look that one up,.. too. 😉
Chris
Michael,
Circumlocution : a round-about way of saying something.
HEY!,… I am pretty sure that I am good at that too! 😉 Somehow,.. I do not think that I am earning linguistic “points” here,…. 🙁
Chris
In this case never write “verbosity” when you can write “verbiage”?
Michael
Michael,
Mmmmm? I must admit that if I had thought of “verbosity”,… I most likely would have utilized that. It somehow sounds “cooler”,.. in a “cool”-ish sort of way. Again,.. I am pretty sure that this says nothing complimentary of my literary skillset. 🙁
Michael,
Verbosity : Using too many words; wordy.
I had just better quit while I am ahead. Actually,.. I am pretty sure that I am behind. 🙁
😉 Chris
Thanks for the lessons. Toss me a new one now and again just to keep me on my toes.
Chris,
Here’s one more: “garrulous.”
Michael
Michael,
Garrulous; talking much, esp. about unimportant things
I am pretty sure that I have heard that one before. I watch a fair bit of news and some political news. Given the state of most news/politics these days,.. that fits pretty well. 😉
Chris
Chris,
Copy that!
One last one, and the definition is extremely talkative, but witty and smooth at it: voluble.
Michael
Hi BB,
I really like the Original V. I am curious as to what the Blue Book listed as a value for your rifle?
I have always wanted an early militia style Diana 27. They are very graceful looking. I have a small militia style rifle displayed in my office. I bought it at the Arkansas show a few years ago. It came with an old fringed scabbard. It’s not a shooter but makes a really cool display.
David Enoch
David,
They range from $50 to $300. Mine is closer to the bottom than the top.
B.B.
BB,
For the sake of accuracy (no pun intended of course), Friedrich spelled his last name with a final “N”, i.e. “Langenhan”…and the moniker originally created for the rifles was “MILLITA”. This brand-name word was created by Martin Pulverman, a British importer/distributor of German airguns, apparently hoping to evoke the military sensibilities of potential buyers. On Danny Garvin’s excellent website “The Vintage Airgun Gallery” you can see an Original Model V marked “MILLITA PATENT” which would certainly have been a Pulverman offering, but I’m not sure that all “Millita”-marked rifles were the FLZ Model V (Hiller’s book may have more on that).
In modern times the term “Millita-style” is used generically to characterize any quarter-stock barrel-cocking rifle, and there is an amazing variety of examples to be found. The big manufacturers of the time offered a range of sizes, stock styles, lockup systems, sights, etc. The nicer ones are just as well built as the early BSA but lighter and more graceful looking.
Don
Hi Don,
Thanks for the information.
I hope you can come to the Texas Airgun Show this year.
David Enoch
BB
What is the shape of the lock up element? Is it a wedge, chisel, ball, rounded off pin, or none of the above.I looked for it in the detail shot of the breach, then realized it would be on the opposite face. Do you think this arrangement is better than the modern method which can be disengaged with a small slap on the barrel?
Halfstep,
The lever has a wedge shape that rotates down when the laver is pulled back. It rotates forward and down out of the way of the breech wedge.
I think this is best because not only is it a latch, it’s also a positive barrel lock.
B.B.
BB
By better, I mean more secure. Releasing a lever could be considered inconvenient and therefore, not as good.
Halfstep,
I vote for the positive barrel lock. It is difficult to have a breakbarrel realign “perfectly” every time, even with very tight tolerances. It also requires a very strong lock up mechanism that can sometimes require a considerable effort to unlock, which can be tiring after a bit.
Because of the additional cost of the positive lock they have mostly gone away and are found on only a few of the higher end sproingers. With regular usage you would find it no more difficult to release the lock than to reach up and give the barrel a good slap and probably a little quieter.
Cool looking rifle ,B.B.! I hope she shoots as well as she looks. =)
Off subject a bit.
I was just diddling around on Trev’s Airgun Scrapbook and took a look at the Theoben air rifles page. There they have an exploded view of the Sirocco. The Theoben gas piston is AWESOME! Not only is it adjustable, it is easily rebuildable. That would certainly be a gas piston worth having in a quality air rifle. Yes, you have to use a little bit of intelligence and that is what happened with many Theobens, but for the experienced and knowledged shooter this is the way to go.
RR,
If you rebuild a gas spring,which I assume means reseal, how do you get the nitro back in after you’re done? Where I worked they used Hyson springs (nitrogen filled single acting cylinders) on many of the dies in place of coil springs and they could be recharged through a fitting on the side of the die that was plumbed into the piping that interconnected all the springs. It required a tank of nitrogen and a regulator and a high pressure hose.
Halfstep,
The particular ones I am referring to are the Theoben style gas springs that are charged with a pump similar to a tire pump and filled with air. Having said that, they could be charged with nitrogen if you wanted and that would be an excellent gas to do such with. If you scroll down to the exploded view you will see the gas spring to which I am referring.
http://cinedux.com/theoben-air-rifles.php
RR,
May I call you RR? I’m just Half to my friends. I don’t know Jack about gas pistons guns, obviously, and I will check out that link a little later. I just took delivery of my Air Venturi Compressor and carbon fiber SCBA tank and I’m too excited to stop setting it up to read much right now. My PC sits in front of an AC vent and I had to cool off for a minute and that’s why I read your response. It’s hot and humid in the ol’ Ohio Valley today! Thank’s for the response to my query.
PA has changed their delivery co. from FedEx to UPS and the later DESTROYED the awesome packaging that wraps the compressor( I’m talkin’, the box is practically 6 separate squares of cardboard and foam “DESTROYED”, but the compressor hasn’t got a dent on it. If you’re reading this PA, switch back! My boxes always got here unscathed with FedEx. After they or he or she busted the box up they then, and only then, used “Warning” tape imprinted with the words ” Caution Heavy Package 2 Man Lift! ” Xed across all the busted corners to help hold them together. It would be laughable if it wasn’t pathetic. ( Yike’s, I guess I should’ve made sure you don’t work for UPS before I started venting) 🙂
Thanks again for the link . I will check it out.
Halfstep,
Congratulations on your new toys! 🙂 The FedEx/UPS deal does not sound good. Hopefully we do not hear more stories like yours.
Chris USA,
It’s worse than I thought. They did actually damage the frame of the compressor. The lower cross tube on each side is bent up in the middle and the pump and motor are canted up about 5 degrees. It works fine, but a pinky nail sized piece of the powder coat is chipped off at one of the bends, inviting rust in the future. PA has it packed about as well as they can without using a wooden box and skid arrangement, but I guess if a person is lazy enough and reckless enough and takes no pride in how he earns a living for his family, he can screw up an anvil. I’m not sending it back, but I will inform PA of the condition it was delivered in. And feel free to call me Half.
Half,
I would most definitely contact PA and UPS! I bought one of the first ones and it arrived without damage to the box. There is no excuse for that.
As for the gas spring, most are not rebuildable nor do they have the ability to be adjusted. A major problem with one that is adjustable is inexperienced shooters will charge them up too high trying to make them into uber magnums and end up damaging the piston seals. The idea is to tune it to the best performance, not the most power. After all, what good is 500+ FPE if you can’t hit what you are shooting at?
By the way, RR is fine. 😉
Half,
Once you get that compressor issue worked out and get a new one sent to you, this is an accessory I added to mine because of the high humidity I have.
http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/pcp-accessories/diablo-dry-air-system/
I fastened it to the side of my compressor and run the output through it. I also have my compressor mounted in a garden cart and have a short length of eight inch PVC pipe mounted in the cart to hold my carbon fiber tank while it is being charged.
RR
Doggonit man! I just spent two grand on a compressor and carbon fiber tank and now you’re tellin’ me I gotta buy a $190 accessory for it. I’m gettin’ a slingshot. Seriously what part of the country do you live in? I’m in KY and it’s plenty humid, but I assumed the compressor’s filter/dryer would be designed for the whole US market. After running the thing to fill my tank, I may take it into the house where the AC is. I was surprised by how quiet it was. It took under an hour to fill my tank(45 minute SCBA I think) from empty. I understand that it will take much less time to fill from, say, 1500 to 4500 and my wife will probably be willing to tolerate a little noise in the basement if she thinks I have to spend almost another $200, otherwise! 🙂
LOL! I live in SW VA near Roanoke. You do not HAVE to buy it, but it is my experience that the dryer you can make it the better. Until this year I have been filling my PCPs with a Hill pump with desiccant filter and there is still a considerable bit of moisture in the trap on it. When I used my compressor, which I had already added the Diablo filter to, to fill my new tank there were geegobs of moisture in the compressor trap. Personally I would recommend an additional filter and so does Joe Brancato of airtanksforsale.com and others I know.
RR
You may have a little more humidity than me. It’s high for both of us though. I have been using a G6 pump indoors for about a year and a half. I use it inside because its HOT! outside and I sweat like a pig if I exert myself in the heat. ( that’s also why I try to stay carefully at rest,on general principal, throughout the Summer, now that I’ve retired) I guess the refrigerated state my wife keeps the house in prohibits the existence of airborne moisture ’cause I’ve never seen a drop come out of the hand pump’s bleed hole. After supper tonight I’m gonna tell the cook that I need to spend another $200 on a filter and see if that gets me permission to use my compressor down in the basement ( I usually call it “The Freezer” but for tonight’s conversation I think “The Basement” will be best) If it’s OK with you, I’ll probable invoke your name and reprint your earlier comment as part of the process, but only as a last resort. I’ll keep you out of it altogether if I can, I promise! Maybe I can just drop Mr. Brancato into the soup.
All kidding aside, I’ll take that under advisement. When I bled the compressor after filling my tank the first time, I was shocked at how much water (and some oil,I think) came out. I’ve already decided that I will bleed several times if I ever fill from empty again. Do you know if PA or anyone sells blowout disks for these compressors? I have a “friend” who ruptured one, through no fault of his own, I might add, and wants to have some spares around in case the Fates conspire against him again.(Lucky for that poor unfortunate that there were a couple in the repair parts kit that came with the compressor)
You can use my name if you really think it will help.
A bit of oil is not going to be that unusual with a compressor of this type, especially with the first few runs. I do believe that PA has rupture discs for this.
RR,
I looked…er, my “friend” looked on the PA website and it was a nogo. I’ll call… tell him to call them to ask about them.
B.B. and all,
It is with a sad note that Wing Commander Sir Nigel Tetlington-Smythe had passed away last 24th of June. He had an accident the previous week and suffered a very serious brain injury.
I found the notice here: http://angryangryguncompany.blogspot.com/
Siraniko
Siraniko,
Thank you for telling us. I will include a message in Monday’s blog.
B.B.
Siraniko
Thanks for posting that.
Sad.
Siraniko
Thanks for posting that.
Sad.
I have no idea why that posted twice.
Siraniko,
Thank you for that notice. I am surprised that you knew about it, unless you have been following his site. There is so, so many sites to save. I do well just to stay up on this one for the most part, and check a few others on occasion.
A good reminder to make the most of (today). It is so easy to do otherwise.
Chris
Chris U
I think about it all the time. Always have.
I try to live life the most if you know what I mean.
Opps,.. See reply below. 🙁
Chris USA,
I subscribed an RSS feed from his website that’s how I got the notice. It was nice and trying also for his widow to have notified those who follow him through his blog.
Siraniko
GF1,
Yup,…. you always seem to be going 110 mph in a 55 mph zone,… that is for sure! 🙂
New test planned. I will try to crank up the scope on the .25 M-rod to 16 mag. level and see if I can not improve upon my “usual” 2 1/2″ at 100 yards. I tend to get bored if I am not testing something,… or pushing the limits on something. Something that I am sure that you have no idea on what I am talking about. 😉
Chris U
I know. Just can’t never seem to cost or slow down. Pedal to the metal in one form or another.
And just like that with your new test. It just might be a good thing. The longer distance should take out the reticle shake with that higher magnification.
Let me know what mildot hold you need at that magnification when you try it.
Will definitely be waiting to hear what you find.
Suppose to say coast. Not cost.
My phone just goes crazy sometimes. Even if I turn spell check back off after a update. It’s like it freaks out and doesn’t know what to do.
GF1,
Personally,… from what I have seen of your phone’s performance,….. I would have set that thing out at 100 yard marker a LONG time ago. Just sayin’,….. 😉
Chris U
The only reason I keep it is that it’s convenient.
I don’t have to set at a computer or laptop all day long. I can access what I want when I want.
So just one of those wonky quirks I put up with.
😉
GF1,
“Wonky”,… I like that! Wherever did you pick that one up at? 😉
Chris U
If I do remember right that is some Australian slang.
🙂
GF1,
…….. there is hope for you yet. 🙂
Chris U
Maybe….
😉
Chris U
Well did you try any of the higher magnification shooting out at a hundred yards yet?
GF1,
I just got back in. Keep an eye on the bottom in about (1 hour-ISH.)
Chris U
Ok cool.
Grandpa Dan,…
Any status updates on the new .22 Maximus? No pressure,… just curious.
Grandpa Dan,
…. bad wording on my behalf. “No pressure” is not the exact type of thing that you want to mention to a PCP owner. 😉
Chris,
Nothing yet.
Just returned home from an out-of-town wedding event. Great-niece, engineer, wed a fellow engineer. As our nephew enumerated during his father-of-the-bride toast, he now has two systems engineers, a software engineer and two mechanical engineers in the family. Our nephew in an EE, works for NASA.
All my wife’s side of the family. I’m just a small-town boy, a red-neck, fer sure. I really did marry “up.” Best move of my life.
One meeting tomorrow, (Monday) AM, then a couple of days should be “Mine.” One more out-of-town family wedding on the horizon in 5 weeks, then things should settle a bit.
I did cobble together a shooting bench. I have an old (35-40 years) Workmate. It’s heavy, has wide-set legs and is very stable. I screwed a section of 2×4 on to the center of a piece of 3/4″ plywood, turned the ply over and clamped the 2×4 in the Workmate. Et voila! A shooting bench. I’m going to put two blocks on the front edge of the ply and staple a strip of carpet between them. Kind of a sling for the front of the gun. Should allow free movement for a quasi-arttillery hold. I can move the gun fore or aft on the sling as the the grouping or lack of same dictates.
Word of wisdom: Never throw away a piece of wood. (Or anything else.) 😉
Grandpa Dan,
Nice comment. Very nice! I understand “fer” sure. 😉
Good on the bench. While a “sling” type set-up may be ok,.. that also will reduce steady to some degree. I use a hard 2×4,4×4 set up all screwed together and topped with a layer of 1/8″ gasketing. I rest the “Schnabel” of the Maximus forearm directly on it.
The main thing is that you are moving forward. Best of wishes and be sure to keep all of us posted as things progress.
Chris
Dan
We did that when we was kids with rope. Tied it to two branches and shot. Works good with the stock rested that way. Also works setting the front scope bell over the top of the rope back on the 1″ or 30 mm tube.
But you do have to pull the butt of the gun to your shoulder a bit to lock in your hold.
When you shoot with your setup you’ll know what I mean. Oh and that’s a trick that the military snipers use.
I always so enjoyed Sir Nigel’s posts. I will miss him. 🙁
I have never read Sir Nigel’s blog and I’m sorry he’s past and if the reverence shown here is any indicator, he must have had a lot of helpful things to say. I guess my blog reading load has just doubled.( provided his is archived and left up after his death)
Halfstep
I didn’t know he had a blog. Just know him from posting here on BB’s blog. But yep he always had good posts.
GF1,
(.25 M-rod, RAI stock, bi-pod, 100 yards, UTG 4-16×56 @ 16 magnification)
8 shot sight in. Tried pushing and pulling the stock. 3 dot HO with 25.39 JSB’s, 4 7/8″
8 more with the 25.39’s. Push only. 2 3/4″. 3 dot HO
Refill to 3,300 and 8 more with the push method. 33.95 JSB’s this time. 1 flyer. 5 @ 1 5/16 and 7 @ 2 1/4″.
Conditions were good. The one thing I did note was that the scope set at 16 mag.,… DID require a VERY precise eye alignment. Less than precise was do-able just fine,….. eye spot on, was perfect in all regards. I did not care for that.
In the end, nothing conclusive, but it does seem to better than my normal. As I have said before,… I will not make any conclusions until I do repeated testing.
Geo,… for you,… .22 Maximus on 15oz. steel cans,…. 4/4 at 50 and 6/6 at 70 yards.
Chris U
Not getting your reply on eye placement.
First you said you need a very precise eye alignment. Then you say Less than doable is just fine. ???
Chris U
Oh and did there seem to be less scope shake with that magnification at that distance?
Maybe you should also test dailing down the magnification till you get a result hats easier to achieve.
Chris U
And forgot. Is that more holdover than what you need at your normal lower magnification?
GF1,
Yes, steady was fine, but somewhat less steady. Hard to say, very close. On holdover, @ 10 mag. it is 2 HO. On eye placement, a little off would give somewhat of a “hazy” picture, but still clear enough to see the bull. With “perfect” eye alignment, the sight picture was crystal clear. Keep in mind that I have adjustable comb and LOP and an eye cup on the ocular. We are talking the (littlest) of eye movement here.
I would like to know for SURE what a 32 power would look like. Is it very sensitive to eye placement? Just how clear does it look? B.B. has given the high(est) end UTG a pretty good review if I remember correctly.
Chris U
So maybe the higher magnification makes you repeat your eye location. Then makes you keep your hold more on.
Did it make it easier to see your target? I’m guessing it did once you got everything in line.
Try stepping the magnification down as you shoot more at that higher magnification.
What I mean is shoot at the higher magnification till your sure you can repeat your groups. Then lower the magnification some more and shoot and note what happens. I’m thinking that would be a very good experiment.
GF1,
Steady is not really an issue. If you remember, with the RAI stock, it accepts AR pistol grips. I use a rest under that and the front is on the bi-pod. Very little movement. On the rear rest, it is a combo of a full pellet can, some firm foam rubber and some 1/8″ rubber sheet shims. All very compact and all very minimal. Relaxed, the reticle is (below) the bull. When ready to fire, I put slight down pressure on the grip to to bring the cross hairs onto the bull. Very steady. The only word of caution there is to get the shimming just right so as the relaxed sight picture is only 1-2 mil dot low.
Hey, it works. As for trying the lower mag. level,… (we) have done that before. That is why I usually shoot at 7 @ 70 and in.
Chris U
Yes I know you said that. But have you tryed starting high like you just did at a hundred and comming down on magnification at 100 yards. Maybe your 10 magnification at one hundred yards isn’t the best magnification for you.
Oh and I just shot my best group ever at 50 yards with my FWB 300 with 10.34’s. With AC DC Thunderstruck playing very loudly in the back ground. 🙂
Very relaxing. How could that be. 😉
GF1,
Yup,.. tried the high to low bit. Low is better if it will do for ya’. As for the music, nothing wrong with AC/DC. I do like the peace and quiet of the wooded setting though. Very relaxing. Plus, I can hear and see any obnoxious critters off in the wooded edge. Like,… the one I spotted this AM up on it’s hind legs “checking out” something under my RAV4. I grabbed the Maximus and even went out and popped the hood as he disappeared when I opened the door. I did not see it run anywhere, so I was on edge.
I was really hoping to open the hood and catch him in an eye to eye stare down. Ok,… I will be honest,… it would have been more of an eye to Maximus muzzle showdown. Second thought,.. perhaps it worked out better the way it did. I suppose launching a .22 pellet, going 800+ fps into a perfectly good engine compartment might not be the smartest of moves. Still,.. I wanted that little (you know what) spit roasted with a side of slaw. Caught up in the moment I guess you could say. Kind of like Geo and his Bluebirds I suppose.
Chris U
I like it both ways when I shoot. Nice and quiet and the music. Reminds me of when I was a kid cruise’n in the muscle car and a good song comes on. It just kind of stirs the blood ya know.
And watch out is all I can say. Them critters are smart.
😉
GF1,
Yup,… I remember your stories of when,… “Squirrels Attack”. Believe me!,… I (did) think of that when I popped that hood. I thought that I might have a frightened squirrel going for for my juggler vein.
There was a homeowner that had a pet squirrel on the news lately. A would be burglar tried/did break in. Let’s just say that the pet squirrel had become a bit “territorial”. Squirrel 1, Burglar 0. 🙂
Chris U
I can see that happening.
To see exactly how pathetically glacial spring piston air rifle development has been over the last 120 years compare what groups this will get at 25 yards (if the barrel is OK and will clean up) with what a Ford model T will do vs a ford focus 🙂